Thank God for this video. I have the design where I can just pry the metal piece out to catch the discs. I didn't even realize I could do that. You saved me $50. Thank you sir.
Awesome man. It'll be a little more loose than before with the plastic covering missing, but it seems to work well enough. There's a *possible* solution to "rebuild" the tab covering around the steel to keep it from digging into your plastic discs (for under $10). If you've never used Sugru, it's a moldable adhesive. Great stuff. I've used it on all sorts of small repairs, but I have not yet tried it on my dumbbells. I plan to for a future video. Hypothetically speaking, if you clean the tab with a Q-tip and some acetone, the Sugru should bond pretty well. You may actually be able to shape and mold a new tab covering over the steel one. tinyurl.com/SugruAtWalmart You can also check out my newer version of the $1 Fix video. It's a more involved fix using a bolt, but it's definitely permanent and tighter. Here's that video:: ua-cam.com/video/-a-gqVB-oOw/v-deo.html Happy New Year! Stay safe.
I used a quarter inch by half inch long hex bolt and I use the washer to give it a little more height. I ground off the old tab with a grinder. I enjoyed the collaboration.
Sweet...glad it worked out for you. It's a great inexpensive way to salvage a plate...rather than buying one from the gougers on eBay. Just remember that prying the tab out changes the geometry and how that tab engages the disc lip. Unlike the bolt fix it means the plate will be a bit more loose in the handle too. All this to say, be careful. I've always viewed the pry-out as a temp fix and the bolt method as something more permanent.
Wow LeViis, I had no idea plates have become that expensive. That's nuts. I'm glad you were able to do the fix. If you find that the hex edges of your bolt heads dig into the plastic, rounding them over slightly should help.
Dude you are the man. I picked up a 1090 that was wrecked for $75 and just did the tap/bolt method. Thing is stronger than before! I took videos if you want to add it to this video (albeit I’m not the best cameraman lol)
Awesome, Al, thanks for letting me know how that worked out for you. I also made a more recent video with another technique that doesn't require tapping. Your bolts are definitely not going anywhere now. The one thing I would recommend that I wish I had covered in the videos, is to slightly round the two bottom facing corners of the hex bolt so that they aren't sharp corners dragging on the inner lips of your discs. It'll also spread the force out a bit. I'd love to see your videos, Al. No judgement here, man. I suck at videography. It's why my videos are basic with no frills. If I can figure out a way to incorporate some of yours into a future video and use them with your permission, I'll definitely do it. Do you use Dropbox, Google Drive or any sort of online storage such that you could send me a link? My email is joe@averagejoeinnovations.com Thanks again for taking the time to let the rest of us know. And $75 for 1090 that just needed some DIY TLC....sweet score!
Awesome. Thank you for letting me know that worked out for you. You might notice the plate is a little more loose/rattling in between the discs as a result of that method, but it gets the job done. I should mention that I think of it as more of a temporary fix. Consider using some epoxy putty to shape and bond a new tab over that metal one. That way the metal tab isn't digging into your plastic disc. And you can use the tabs on your other plates as a guide for how thick and wide it should be. Cheers, Joe
HI Johnny, I'm glad you found it helpful. There's a newer version if you search my channel. I demonstrate the bolt method and no thread tapping is required.
@@uriasj68 Hi Johnny. I totally spaced out the fact that the link is right up in the video description above. I usually put links, corrections and other information in my video descriptions. Here's the link so you don't have to scroll up: ua-cam.com/video/-a-gqVB-oOw/v-deo.html
Easy fix, used mine for years before plastic started to decay & break but easier & less expensive ways of updating but none as permanent as the metal inserts that I’ve seen so far. Many folks are back working out at home gyms and these older original versions are hard to find, when I do see them am purchasing them for modifying & resale.
THX took me exactly 10 min with a flex machine, a steal drill and a wrench. If you are easy with the right drill chuck size you can wrench the screw into the whole without a glue. Keeping the 2 mm plastic coating on both sides will help to hold it tight.
Sweet, Martin. Thanks for sharing that with us. So you just let the bolt tap the threads, right? It's a soft steel so I can totally see that working. Did you have to adjust the thickness of the bolt head since you left the plastic intact or did it still clear the disc just fine?
Tried this today with mine. A little bit of resistance when dialling them but considering it's a quick fix and may potentially save me $200, why not try? I didn't use a washer. Grind, polish, drilled, shortened the length and tapped it in. I've owned the 1090 DB since July 2013. One of my best investments!!
Awesome man. Did you happen to round the edge of the hex slightly so it doesn't drag on the plastic discs? Always interested in hearing about how folks execute the fix. Given the outrageous asking prices for the plates on eBay, it's worth the effort for many of us. Thanks for sharing BBoy.
Hi, HD. Yes, definitely. Epoxy putties such as JB SteelStik and Oatey Fix-It Stick could, hypothetically, be used to rebuild the tab over the existing stamped steel tab. It's one of several ways not mentioned in the videos. Epoxying a bolt into place (rather than the methods that I mentioned) is another possibility. Think of this video as a source of inspiration that just demonstrates that these plates are repairable. Some used 552 Series 1 parts are increasingly difficult to find. For example, the infamous #3 weight plate. I have no idea why that plate, of all the plates, is so incredibly popular on the secondary market. Except, perhaps, that they are breaking in higher numbers than the rest. So finding creative, inexpensive ways to repair the plates will become more important in the years ahead, especially for Series 1 owners. I have no current plan to manufacture replacements due to the costs involved and the very low profitability at low volumes.
lol every week we discover new design issues on bowflex products thanks god i did not buy that wiglets! I still like to see your engineering approach to fixing them up
Thanks Noam! Pretty much all of the adjustables have flaws of some type. For example, Powerblock's use of a urethane handle assembly and plate coatings is why they were in hot water with a class action lawsuit just a couple years back. Heck, the entire industry is filled with equipment that is flawed in some way or another....someone cutting corners somewhere (at the expense of customer safety and product durability) all for a couple quick bucks SelectTechs just happen to be the something I owned, and for which I needed a permanent fix. At some point I will set my sights on other brands and equipment too. :-)
@@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC I was planning on getting bowflex actually, but my friend had one and the mechanism failed after a few months, but to each his own
Hi, KK. Yes and no. Beyond issues like the ones I raise in my videos about various dumbbells brands, personal preference plays a major role in what will work best for you. I happen to own several brands and models of adjustables, so I'm familiar with what I do and don't like about each. Despite the pretty consistent reliability, Powerblocks aren't for everyone. Some folks just aren't going to like the shape, the limitations with certain exercises (goblet squats to name just one), or the somewhat funky weight change process for both the main weights and adders. That said, you could always invest in a pair, use them for a while, and sell off the pair that you least like. Or, worst case, end up with a room full of different adjustables like me wondering why you didn't invest in a rack years ago...lol.
I busted the plastic tab off one of my plates 2 days ago, this video had me back I'm business in no time. Thanks for the video!
That's awesome Shaun. Thank you for taking the time to let me know that the video helped. I appreciate it.
Thank God for this video. I have the design where I can just pry the metal piece out to catch the discs. I didn't even realize I could do that. You saved me $50. Thank you sir.
Awesome man. It'll be a little more loose than before with the plastic covering missing, but it seems to work well enough.
There's a *possible* solution to "rebuild" the tab covering around the steel to keep it from digging into your plastic discs (for under $10). If you've never used Sugru, it's a moldable adhesive. Great stuff. I've used it on all sorts of small repairs, but I have not yet tried it on my dumbbells. I plan to for a future video. Hypothetically speaking, if you clean the tab with a Q-tip and some acetone, the Sugru should bond pretty well. You may actually be able to shape and mold a new tab covering over the steel one.
tinyurl.com/SugruAtWalmart
You can also check out my newer version of the $1 Fix video. It's a more involved fix using a bolt, but it's definitely permanent and tighter. Here's that video::
ua-cam.com/video/-a-gqVB-oOw/v-deo.html
Happy New Year! Stay safe.
I used a quarter inch by half inch long hex bolt and I use the washer to give it a little more height. I ground off the old tab with a grinder. I enjoyed the collaboration.
Awesome, thanks for the clarification! I enjoyed brainstorming with a fellow DIYer!
Great job on the fix idea. I just fixed my big plate with the pry-out fix. My dumbbells are now 14 years old and still going!
Sweet...glad it worked out for you. It's a great inexpensive way to salvage a plate...rather than buying one from the gougers on eBay. Just remember that prying the tab out changes the geometry and how that tab engages the disc lip. Unlike the bolt fix it means the plate will be a bit more loose in the handle too. All this to say, be careful. I've always viewed the pry-out as a temp fix and the bolt method as something more permanent.
Great fix! It was pretty easy. I was going to buy a replacement plate but they wanted over $100 per! I needed two! Thank you.
Wow LeViis, I had no idea plates have become that expensive. That's nuts. I'm glad you were able to do the fix. If you find that the hex edges of your bolt heads dig into the plastic, rounding them over slightly should help.
Dude you are the man. I picked up a 1090 that was wrecked for $75 and just did the tap/bolt method. Thing is stronger than before! I took videos if you want to add it to this video (albeit I’m not the best cameraman lol)
Awesome, Al, thanks for letting me know how that worked out for you. I also made a more recent video with another technique that doesn't require tapping. Your bolts are definitely not going anywhere now. The one thing I would recommend that I wish I had covered in the videos, is to slightly round the two bottom facing corners of the hex bolt so that they aren't sharp corners dragging on the inner lips of your discs. It'll also spread the force out a bit.
I'd love to see your videos, Al. No judgement here, man. I suck at videography. It's why my videos are basic with no frills. If I can figure out a way to incorporate some of yours into a future video and use them with your permission, I'll definitely do it. Do you use Dropbox, Google Drive or any sort of online storage such that you could send me a link? My email is joe@averagejoeinnovations.com
Thanks again for taking the time to let the rest of us know. And $75 for 1090 that just needed some DIY TLC....sweet score!
@
Thanks, I was able to fix with the first method. So simple
Awesome. Thank you for letting me know that worked out for you. You might notice the plate is a little more loose/rattling in between the discs as a result of that method, but it gets the job done. I should mention that I think of it as more of a temporary fix. Consider using some epoxy putty to shape and bond a new tab over that metal one. That way the metal tab isn't digging into your plastic disc. And you can use the tabs on your other plates as a guide for how thick and wide it should be. Cheers, Joe
Clear and concise. Thanks for explanation and tutorial!
HI Johnny, I'm glad you found it helpful. There's a newer version if you search my channel. I demonstrate the bolt method and no thread tapping is required.
@@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC thank you. I'll look for it. Unless you'd like to link it here
@@uriasj68 Hi Johnny. I totally spaced out the fact that the link is right up in the video description above. I usually put links, corrections and other information in my video descriptions. Here's the link so you don't have to scroll up: ua-cam.com/video/-a-gqVB-oOw/v-deo.html
Easy fix, used mine for years before plastic started to decay & break but easier & less expensive ways of updating but none as permanent as the metal inserts that I’ve seen so far. Many folks are back working out at home gyms and these older original versions are hard to find, when I do see them am purchasing them for modifying & resale.
THX took me exactly 10 min with a flex machine, a steal drill and a wrench. If you are easy with the right drill chuck size you can wrench the screw into the whole without a glue. Keeping the 2 mm plastic coating on both sides will help to hold it tight.
Sweet, Martin. Thanks for sharing that with us. So you just let the bolt tap the threads, right? It's a soft steel so I can totally see that working. Did you have to adjust the thickness of the bolt head since you left the plastic intact or did it still clear the disc just fine?
Tried this today with mine. A little bit of resistance when dialling them but considering it's a quick fix and may potentially save me $200, why not try? I didn't use a washer. Grind, polish, drilled, shortened the length and tapped it in. I've owned the 1090 DB since July 2013. One of my best investments!!
Awesome man. Did you happen to round the edge of the hex slightly so it doesn't drag on the plastic discs? Always interested in hearing about how folks execute the fix. Given the outrageous asking prices for the plates on eBay, it's worth the effort for many of us. Thanks for sharing BBoy.
Did you consider using some sort of sand-able epoxy to rebuild the tab?
Hi, HD. Yes, definitely. Epoxy putties such as JB SteelStik and Oatey Fix-It Stick could, hypothetically, be used to rebuild the tab over the existing stamped steel tab. It's one of several ways not mentioned in the videos. Epoxying a bolt into place (rather than the methods that I mentioned) is another possibility. Think of this video as a source of inspiration that just demonstrates that these plates are repairable.
Some used 552 Series 1 parts are increasingly difficult to find. For example, the infamous #3 weight plate. I have no idea why that plate, of all the plates, is so incredibly popular on the secondary market. Except, perhaps, that they are breaking in higher numbers than the rest. So finding creative, inexpensive ways to repair the plates will become more important in the years ahead, especially for Series 1 owners.
I have no current plan to manufacture replacements due to the costs involved and the very low profitability at low volumes.
lol every week we discover new design issues on bowflex products thanks god i did not buy that wiglets! I still like to see your engineering approach to fixing them up
Thanks Noam! Pretty much all of the adjustables have flaws of some type. For example, Powerblock's use of a urethane handle assembly and plate coatings is why they were in hot water with a class action lawsuit just a couple years back. Heck, the entire industry is filled with equipment that is flawed in some way or another....someone cutting corners somewhere (at the expense of customer safety and product durability) all for a couple quick bucks
SelectTechs just happen to be the something I owned, and for which I needed a permanent fix. At some point I will set my sights on other brands and equipment too. :-)
This is why I go for spinlock dumbbells
Can't go wrong with traditional bar and plate assemblies. Definitely not as convenient, but for quite a few people it's perfectly fine.
@@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC I was planning on getting bowflex actually, but my friend had one and the mechanism failed after a few months, but to each his own
Thank you!!!
My pleasure, C. I hope the video helped inspire a solution. Cheers, Joe
In other words I should have just gone with the Power blocks weights
Hi, KK. Yes and no. Beyond issues like the ones I raise in my videos about various dumbbells brands, personal preference plays a major role in what will work best for you.
I happen to own several brands and models of adjustables, so I'm familiar with what I do and don't like about each. Despite the pretty consistent reliability, Powerblocks aren't for everyone. Some folks just aren't going to like the shape, the limitations with certain exercises (goblet squats to name just one), or the somewhat funky weight change process for both the main weights and adders.
That said, you could always invest in a pair, use them for a while, and sell off the pair that you least like. Or, worst case, end up with a room full of different adjustables like me wondering why you didn't invest in a rack years ago...lol.