I like to attach the recirculation pipework during the sparge. I slip the tubing just to the side of the sparge basket and turn on the pump. Since I have set the GF to boil by this point, I feel there's less chance of a charred heating element when doing this. Also, when the sparge has slowed to a crawl I place the sparge basket into a pot with a false bottom. This gives me a chance to scrape the heating element while still collecting wort, which I add in just before I reach a boil. Cheers!
I like this idea. I actually tripped my boiloff protection when I was heating to a boil as I couldnt scrape the element while sparging. I will definitely do this next time should keep it off it better. nice.
David, I love your videos. Well done and informative. You always comment on the importance of stirring the protein foam back into the wort. Could you explain why please?
David, I've just recently discovered your channel and I'm loving it. Thanks for putting in the time to make these videos. I have a question about whirlpooling. I've been brewing for a few years now but never really did the whirlpooling. Could you please elaborate a bit on how to do it? Do you go for the paddle right after the boil for 10 minutes and than let it sit for a few more? Or are there any tips or tricks you can share on this process? Thanks.
Thanks Jelmer, great to hear. Yes the whirlpool is started as soon as the boil is over. I tend to spend 5-10 minutes with the drill, depending on the amount of hops. I then let this stand for 15 minutes. This ensures that everything has dropped. I covered this recently in the Brut IPA video and the quick start video also. Hope this helps :) Check out my playlists, there are way over 100 videos on the channel covering many topics.
TIP#10 - Like all the Top French Chef would say; "if you want a clear stock, remove the protein floating on top". I always have super clear beers, and do not like to keep that horrible scum in my beer. Great video! Thanks! I loooooove my Grainfather! Best thing since sliced bread!
That is exactly why I keep them in, I prefer the end taste :) I have tested this with various styles from light to dark. Some the taste is little different, some I prefer the taste. None do I prefer the protein removed though.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew We live and we learn! I have never considered that the taste could be enhanced with keeping the proteins in... I shall investigate that option! Thanks David! ;-)
Great tips! One question, how long do you recirculate boiling wort through the CFC? I usually run it for a minute and then stop the pump for a couple minutes and repeat for a total of about 20 minutes. I am hoping that less time would work just as well. Thanks for all the practical advice.
Hi Dave another great video and good to have all these useful tips in one place. Had already arrived at the hose clip idea after a nightmare the last time the filter fell off! With the mesh idea, would you go as far as not bothering with the rubber plug at all? Cheers Jon
Jon Pendleton Glad that you enjoyed it Jon. There will be a follow up to this with more tips and hints. The mesh on the filter could replace the end cap but I find it more secure due to using the cap as a point of wrapping onto, if that makes sense. Try it both ways and hopefully you will see what I mean :)
my favorite tip that you found was the awesome tip of connecting the counter flow chiller to the recirc arm for cleaning at the end. im currently doing testing on a graincoat + reflectix combo and so far noticed no difference compared to just a graincoat. This may be different with actual wort and with a larger volume. You can check my results on the grainfather megathread on homebrew talk.
I did remember you mentioning this. Just was posting one of my personal favorite tips that you found. Your sink strainer bit has been phenominal and cheap to boot. Sigh, the wait for my Connect continues though.
Great video and listen to his recommendation about clamping the filter on, last batch (my 4th on the grainfather) I knocked mine off during the boil... Uggg. was a pain in the ass to get back on, had to slow boil, transfer to another kettle while boiling, put it back on and all that fun...
Hi David. Great video. Just a question regarding point #2. Am I right in saying that the old controller can only be repurposed for HEATING applications (not cooling)? Unlike an STC-1000, these only seem to have one relay, for heating (only), am I right?
Great tips David, thanks for sharing! In this video you talk about using a mesh wrap to avoid knocking off the end cap of the filter. In my last brew this was the case so I was wondering what kind of material is this mesh wrap. Is it in stainless steel or is it other material. Can you clarify this and give some tip were I can find it. Thanks in advance!
Question. When you mash, your not really able to stir the malt due the top rist. How about not puting on the top rist and then apply some sort of filter at the top of the pipe for not making mash fall through the pipe? Whats your routine here?
Hi David, thanks for all the great videos you create, extremely helpful! I find when I rewrite your Verdant IPA recipe into the Grainfather format, everything transcribes very well with very close OG, FG, IBU, BU/GU, EBC, ABV and boil volume. However, the Mash volume comes up at 15.46L (yours is 20.04) and the Sparge at 12.08L (yours is 6.38). These don't appear to be adjustable. From what I can find within the Grainfather FAQ's it looks like they use a tighter mash ratio. Should I be concerned or am I missing something? Cheers!
Cheers Mark. Yes the water volumes are quite different between Brewfather and Gf. All you can really do is test and so what works for you are narrow it down.
Would you recommend the same pre-brew cleaning ritual as with biab? Clean all the loose parts with antibac soap, then soak in starsan mix, and circulate a liter or 10 through pipes and cfc? (Yes, Dave, you made me buy a Grainfather :D ) First cleaning has been done with the GF cleaner.
+Nick Verstraete Haha welcome to the club Nick. Pre the very first brew you will need to take it through the regular cleaning cycle to clean off all oil ect from the manufacturing process. After that no precleaning is needed. The clean at the end of the brew is enough.
Hello David, sorry if this is a dumb question but when you say to whirlpool for 15 mins and hopstand for 15 mins, is it one and the same or does it mean whirlpool then stand for 15 mins each? Also, your 2019 NEIPA has quite low IBU and BU:GU numbers - did you feel that was a better NEIPA than your higher IBU versions? Thanks!
David! Great video. What size tubing and Thermometer do you have connected to the wort chiller. 1/2 or 3/8 I.D. I want to make sure I get the correct size. Thanks for all your tips!!
Very nice tips as usual! A candidate for tip #26...I have been wondering why aeration/oxidation of hot wort e.g. when sparging never has been addressed - it can not be good for the beer! - I actually have plans for a crane of some sort to sink down the maltpipe near to the wort.
Aerating the wort before pitching is it only time (in my book) to give it a splash and put in a lot of O2 into it! I am talking about not doing it on hot wort!
Brulosophy tried this to see if they could determine if hot side aeration mattered. They couldnt get statistical significance with it. My guess is frankly it just doesnt matter on a home brew scale. On a pro / commercial production level? My guess is it does. brulosophy.com/2016/12/26/hot-side-aeration-pt-2-evaluating-the-impact-of-age-exbeeriment-results/
Another tip I would offer Is to slow down the flow during the mash. Too many times, I have seen the wort cycling and just pouring down the overflow pipe as liquid chooses the path of least resistance. Slow it down to a trickle, and you can be assured the wort is actually penetrating the grain offering a greater efficiency. Great vid, and I thank you for it. Cheers!!
I also have done that a couple of times, when I had a stuck mash bed. But I have found that it is a bad idea. Slowing down the wort flow to a trickle when you get a stuck mash bed is a bad idea for two reasons: 1) The mash temperature will not be as stable as when you let the wort flow down the tube. The same principle applays here, as when warming up the mash water, (keep the lid on, and recirculate your mash water). 2) Regardless if you recirculate the wort with the valve fully opened or barley open, the same amount of wort will make it´s way down the malt bed. So in my opinion you have to choose between: A) Doing a sort of almost "BIAB-mash, with the valve almost closed with only some recirculation through the grain bed, with a unstable mash temperature". B) Keeping a stable mash temperature with maximum wort flow, and maybe open the grainbasket and stir the mash 1-3 times during the mashing. This will give you a much better efficiency, and correct mashing scheme.
Oh I didn't mean slow it down to a trickle, bad choice of a word on my part. More of a calm recirculation is what I should have said. I took in what you have posted and will give em a whirl the next time I brew. We learn something new everyday. Cheers!!
Was thinking I'd do the same - got disappointing OG of 1.050 for an expected 1.065 & thought, if it all pours down the overflow, what good is it doing in the grain wash? Perhaps not full flow, yet not too slow either?
I had safety cut out on my last mash, it was an altbier. I had to empty grainfather clean the treacle like goo off bottom then reset and filled bottom of grainfather with sterilised glass marbles. No problems with safety cut out after this. When you stir the marbles move around and stop burning on the bottom.
Great tips David. Is the Youngs yeast nutrient suitable for beer? I use it for Mead but was wondering. Also do you add it to the boil or just straight in the FV. Cheers
Yeast nutrients are generally added to the boil @ 15mins. Some would say that yeast nutrients are equal for all. Others have said that wine nutrients can give off tastes in beer. Ive got both and use each with each only.
Always good your advice David, and video more and more beautiful. In fact I wanted to say in other video (where I smile a lot with Thor the whirpooler) that even with the drill and the simple plastic paddle get big results in oxygenation of the wort, as long as the right time .. I take this opportunity to ask you, why for boiling the milkshake ipa have chosen 90 minutes .. if you can explain I also follow the GFgroup but now I was here on youtube. Thanks and Greetings from Rome Alessandro Scaglione
Glad you enjoyed it. The reason for the 90 minute boil is as follows:- The main malt is Pilsner and a 90 minute boil will eliminate DMS. The 90 minute boil will also add caramelisation and add more bitterness to the brew using fewer hops compared to a 60 minute boil.
At the caramelization had not thought, in fact rather increases and I had to be careful at the GF bottom, however, the hops I'm adding in first wort hop technique, I'm trying this and several added at the very end. when you try one thing you must also insist a little, at least Im inexperienced. Thanks for your answer
+Meirion Evans It came in a package of various sizes that are all key adjusted, so I dont know the actual size. Best thing is to take the end piece with you to a store. Sorry. I cant advise more :)
Hi David, I'm bottling my beer and you suggest to leave it in the fermentation vessel for 21 days. Up till now I did this for 14 days and bottled with carbonation drops. Can I do the same after 21 days? You talk about the benefits of bulk conditioning. What do you mean exactly by this and do I need to do something extra before I bottle? Thanks!
Have you calculated the Mash Deadspace Losses and the Trub Loss after chilling? I would like to input the numbers into an Equipment Profile in Beersmith.
Hi Howard, If you join the Grainfather Users Group on Facebook then in the files section is a complete profile that is quite good for Beersmith. The main issue being that Beersmith is not great with single vessel brewing water calculations, so best to do those elsewhere. Hope this speeds things ip for you :)
Hello David ... great video! I have a question regarding adding hop pellets to the boil. On my first try with the Grainfather, I just pitched them in according to the recipe but it really clogged my bottom filter. Do you think it would be okay to put the hops and additives in a hop bag to reduce this? I don't want to loose any of those awesome flavours. James
+James Noonan sure you can but if you whirlpool at 0 minutes this will fix most clogging. Worse case scenario attach a bicycle pump to the wort out of your cfc and you can push the hops off in seconds:)
Great video btw , Just one question ,I see you're using a thrumometer, do you take this off before running the hot wort through to sanitise the cf chiller , I heard these are heat sensitive, didn't get one for fear of frying it , thanks again , some nice inspiring work you're doing 👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it. No ive never removed the thrumometer. Never had an issue with it and I check that its temp strip is accurate every beer. Very useful piece of kit.
quick question tip No4 Are you saying stop the pump when recirculation the wort and remove the top plate and give the grain a good stir will assist is a better EFF ?? cheer
Dan Fix I would only use a drill in a very careful manner. When used sensibly with full control then its a useful tool. Other than that it becomes a hazard!
Hey David, Your Thrumometer, what's the size of the inlet an outlet? I need to get one of them (yeah yeah yeah, I knoow, I'm too lazy to go digging through my gf to get the chiller out to measure). lol
That In-Line Temperature display thingy? I have seen it in a couple of videos you have done but I cannot find it anywhere. Do you have a link or a neame please?
Hi David, I have recently started working with the grainfather, but found that the factory filter always leaves between 0.5 and 1 liter of wort behind when transferring to the fermenter. At that point the fluidlevels drop below the reach of the pumpinlet, or so it seems. Do you have any tips on how to improve on this? I always find it a bit wasteful, though not necessary problematic.
Ah, great to know! Thanks for the feedback. I love your videos. They are simultaneously highly informative as well as soothing :) Another question I had: is there a rule of thumb regarding the amount of hop to be used when dryhopping? I understand this varies highly with the type of hop used, but I was hoping some general idea might help me in my experiments.
+Ej van de beek Thats great to hear :) Dry hop wise 2-8g is possible per litre. Both sides being extremes. Approx 3.5g per litre is fairly normal, if that exists anymore in these hoppy days.
I've watched all 3 videos maybe I've missed something. I think I've seen it in one of your videos in the past what size is the silicone tubing for the counter counterflow chiller ? If you knew the US size that would be great
Thumbs down because more thank half of the tips aren't related to the grainfather at all. Things like: " have an extra yeast packet" or "use Star San"...
It certainly is not intended to be clickbait or misleading...Clickbait would be to make the title more general and call it Homebrew hints and tips. I make no money from the channel, its niche.
Ok, maybe thumbs downs was a bit too harsh (I just changed it), after all, like I said, those are good brewing tips. But I think my point still remains standing.... Good luck with your Grainfather and keep the videos coming.
I'v watched a lot of your videos, specially like the one where you did sous vide using the GF, that one will come in specially useful for appeasing the missus when she finds out iv blown the best part of a grand on shiny metal ( got the sparge heater and coat too ) very exited as this (apart from a few mini mash's) is my first venture in to all grain
I got my GF about 2 weeks ago. I already have done two brews on it. The first batch was a dud. After one week, still no active fermentation. I think I am just going to throw a simple sugar starter (one that yields about 14% abv for another summertime drink I make) and see how that works. The other one I made this past Sunday was my own Octoberfest version. Within 3 hours it had an active fermentation. This Sunday I'm brewing another beer. I love my Grainfather, I don't know what I'm going to do with all my other equipment! maybe brew three or four beers in one day I suppose!!!
Hmm...? 1) First, you stir the protein foam into the wort while boiling, as "they are part of the flavour": "GRAINFATHER HINTS AND TIPS COLLECTION", at 6:32: ua-cam.com/video/P-KOUAN1RQE/v-deo.html 2) Then, when bottling, you add "Biersol" to *get rid of the proteins*(!): "Homebrew Beer Bottling A-Z Guide", tip 10, at 8:12: ua-cam.com/video/WLSEJCnRyWo/v-deo.html Now, can you see why I am confused by the contradicting methods....? Why don´t you skim the foam off when boiling, and never bother with the "Biersol"?
Jogged an old man's memory there David - couple of things I'd overlooked. Thanks for putting it up.
Great :) Im glad that it was of help Peter :)
A great video with some good tips been thinking about getting a grainfather and I got a couple questions answered. Thanks and Cheers!
Glad you enjoyed it :) Feel free to ask if you have further questions.
Some great tips and certainly some reminders too. Thanks.
WIld Boar Brewing Glad you liked them :)
Great tips. can't wait to order my Grainfather hopefully at the end of the month. Really useful video. thanks for posting.
Gerarde Manley Thats great to hear :)
Great video. I appreciate all your tips.
Glad you found it useful :)
Nice work David, cheers for this.
Glad you enjoyed it Damo :)
spot on, cheers David!
Thanks Griffo :)
I like to attach the recirculation pipework during the sparge. I slip the tubing just to the side of the sparge basket and turn on the pump. Since I have set the GF to boil by this point, I feel there's less chance of a charred heating element when doing this.
Also, when the sparge has slowed to a crawl I place the sparge basket into a pot with a false bottom. This gives me a chance to scrape the heating element while still collecting wort, which I add in just before I reach a boil.
Cheers!
Nice ideas there Edward, thank you :)
I like this idea. I actually tripped my boiloff protection when I was heating to a boil as I couldnt scrape the element while sparging. I will definitely do this next time should keep it off it better. nice.
David, I love your videos. Well done and informative.
You always comment on the importance of stirring the protein foam back into the wort. Could you explain why please?
Thanks Blaine. By stirring back in you aid flavour and clarify plus protect against a boil over.
Thanks David!
David, I've just recently discovered your channel and I'm loving it. Thanks for putting in the time to make these videos. I have a question about whirlpooling. I've been brewing for a few years now but never really did the whirlpooling. Could you please elaborate a bit on how to do it? Do you go for the paddle right after the boil for 10 minutes and than let it sit for a few more? Or are there any tips or tricks you can share on this process? Thanks.
Thanks Jelmer, great to hear. Yes the whirlpool is started as soon as the boil is over. I tend to spend 5-10 minutes with the drill, depending on the amount of hops. I then let this stand for 15 minutes. This ensures that everything has dropped. I covered this recently in the Brut IPA video and the quick start video also. Hope this helps :) Check out my playlists, there are way over 100 videos on the channel covering many topics.
Thanks again for this reply and the videos, I've already started watching my way through them last weekend :-)
TIP#10 - Like all the Top French Chef would say; "if you want a clear stock, remove the protein floating on top". I always have super clear beers, and do not like to keep that horrible scum in my beer.
Great video! Thanks!
I loooooove my Grainfather! Best thing since sliced bread!
Each to their own there Eric:) I prefer the end taste and it's easy enough to deal with clarity later.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Does it taste better with the proteins left in? Did you try both ways? Maybe I should try that... :-)
That is exactly why I keep them in, I prefer the end taste :) I have tested this with various styles from light to dark. Some the taste is little different, some I prefer the taste. None do I prefer the protein removed though.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew We live and we learn! I have never considered that the taste could be enhanced with keeping the proteins in... I shall investigate that option! Thanks David! ;-)
Well, it is a question of taste but something to compare for yourself. Protein keeps you strong also ofc 💪 :)
I always do your tip #25!! ;) Thanks for your videos!!
Olivier Barré thats the most important one :)
Great tips! One question, how long do you recirculate boiling wort through the CFC? I usually run it for a minute and then stop the pump for a couple minutes and repeat for a total of about 20 minutes. I am hoping that less time would work just as well. Thanks for all the practical advice.
Thank you. 2-3 minutes is plenty enough time to sanitize the CFC :)
Wow, that's a time saver! Thanks again for the video and for taking the time to answer questions.
Hi Dave another great video and good to have all these useful tips in one place. Had already arrived at the hose clip idea after a nightmare the last time the filter fell off! With the mesh idea, would you go as far as not bothering with the rubber plug at all? Cheers Jon
Jon Pendleton Glad that you enjoyed it Jon. There will be a follow up to this with more tips and hints. The mesh on the filter could replace the end cap but I find it more secure due to using the cap as a point of wrapping onto, if that makes sense. Try it both ways and hopefully you will see what I mean :)
Adventures in homebrewing sells a smooth inner hose clip so it wont shred the silicone.
Great video again David.
I wondered how late in the process can DME be added to the wort?
Im glad you enjoyed it :) At any point in the boil really.
this is great thanks David the other day I lost my damn silicon filter cap down the drain I'll just use a mesh wrap now
Sounds good to me :) Glad you found it useful.
my favorite tip that you found was the awesome tip of connecting the counter flow chiller to the recirc arm for cleaning at the end.
im currently doing testing on a graincoat + reflectix combo and so far noticed no difference compared to just a graincoat. This may be different with actual wort and with a larger volume. You can check my results on the grainfather megathread on homebrew talk.
skraelingshortbus I couldnt cover everything :) There will be more of these tips videos :)
I did remember you mentioning this. Just was posting one of my personal favorite tips that you found.
Your sink strainer bit has been phenominal and cheap to boot.
Sigh, the wait for my Connect continues though.
Great video and listen to his recommendation about clamping the filter on, last batch (my 4th on the grainfather) I knocked mine off during the boil... Uggg. was a pain in the ass to get back on, had to slow boil, transfer to another kettle while boiling, put it back on and all that fun...
A filter ko can be very painful! :) Cheers
Hi David. Great video. Just a question regarding point #2. Am I right in saying that the old controller can only be repurposed for HEATING applications (not cooling)? Unlike an STC-1000, these only seem to have one relay, for heating (only), am I right?
Heath L'Estrange well apparently they can according to this:-www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap®-Temperature-Controller-Regulator-Thermocouple/dp/B00D0U7UBY
Great tips David, thanks for sharing! In this video you talk about using a mesh wrap to avoid knocking off the end cap of the filter. In my last brew this was the case so I was wondering what kind of material is this mesh wrap. Is it in stainless steel or is it other material. Can you clarify this and give some tip were I can find it. Thanks in advance!
Yes its a stainless steel wrap made for patching car bodywork.
Thanks David! Did you buy it online? You still know where?
Ebay. Search for stainless steel mesh.
Great video and thanks for tips..I have an ask about 17# tips..your mesh wrap si self Made or you had bought...thanks
ANDREA Rosato Glad you found it useful. I got it from a car repair store.
Question. When you mash, your not really able to stir the malt due the top rist. How about not puting on the top rist and then apply some sort of filter at the top of the pipe for not making mash fall through the pipe? Whats your routine here?
I simply remove the top plate when I need to stir :) Easy enough if you wear gloves :)
Hi David, thanks for all the great videos you create, extremely helpful! I find when I rewrite your Verdant IPA recipe into the Grainfather format, everything transcribes very well with very close OG, FG, IBU, BU/GU, EBC, ABV and boil volume. However, the Mash volume comes up at 15.46L (yours is 20.04) and the Sparge at 12.08L (yours is 6.38). These don't appear to be adjustable. From what I can find within the Grainfather FAQ's it looks like they use a tighter mash ratio. Should I be concerned or am I missing something? Cheers!
Cheers Mark. Yes the water volumes are quite different between Brewfather and Gf. All you can really do is test and so what works for you are narrow it down.
Would you recommend the same pre-brew cleaning ritual as with biab? Clean all the loose parts with antibac soap, then soak in starsan mix, and circulate a liter or 10 through pipes and cfc? (Yes, Dave, you made me buy a Grainfather :D ) First cleaning has been done with the GF cleaner.
+Nick Verstraete Haha welcome to the club Nick. Pre the very first brew you will need to take it through the regular cleaning cycle to clean off all oil ect from the manufacturing process. After that no precleaning is needed. The clean at the end of the brew is enough.
Hello David, sorry if this is a dumb question but when you say to whirlpool for 15 mins and hopstand for 15 mins, is it one and the same or does it mean whirlpool then stand for 15 mins each? Also, your 2019 NEIPA has quite low IBU and BU:GU numbers - did you feel that was a better NEIPA than your higher IBU versions? Thanks!
Hi Mark, same thing :)
NEIPA wise its really all a matter of taste. I think so far I prefer my NEIPA Next Gen personally.
David! Great video. What size tubing and Thermometer do you have connected to the wort chiller. 1/2 or 3/8 I.D. I want to make sure I get the correct size. Thanks for all your tips!!
+Ken Frey GlAd that you found it useful :) It is the 3/8" version, be sure to get some extra silicone hose for the exit :)
Very nice tips as usual! A candidate for tip #26...I have been wondering why aeration/oxidation of hot wort e.g. when sparging never has been addressed - it can not be good for the beer! - I actually have plans for a crane of some sort to sink down the maltpipe near to the wort.
Glad you enjoyed it Peter. Its something that people used to talk about but that was disproven some years back if I remember correctly.
OK. If You find the source of this rebuttal I would be pleased!
Peter P Poulsen Everybody aerated the wort before pitching yeast, never heard a single person suffering oxidation from it?
Aerating the wort before pitching is it only time (in my book) to give it a splash and put in a lot of O2 into it! I am talking about not doing it on hot wort!
Brulosophy tried this to see if they could determine if hot side aeration mattered. They couldnt get statistical significance with it. My guess is frankly it just doesnt matter on a home brew scale. On a pro / commercial production level? My guess is it does.
brulosophy.com/2016/12/26/hot-side-aeration-pt-2-evaluating-the-impact-of-age-exbeeriment-results/
Another tip I would offer Is to slow down the flow during the mash. Too many times, I have seen the wort cycling and just pouring down the overflow pipe as liquid chooses the path of least resistance. Slow it down to a trickle, and you can be assured the wort is actually penetrating the grain offering a greater efficiency. Great vid, and I thank you for it. Cheers!!
Good tip Chris :) Glad you liked the video
I also have done that a couple of times, when I had a stuck mash bed.
But I have found that it is a bad idea.
Slowing down the wort flow to a trickle when you get a stuck mash bed is a bad idea for two reasons:
1) The mash temperature will not be as stable as when you let the wort flow down the tube. The same principle applays here, as when warming up the mash water, (keep the lid on, and recirculate your mash water).
2) Regardless if you recirculate the wort with the valve fully opened or barley open, the same amount of wort will make it´s way down the malt bed.
So in my opinion you have to choose between:
A) Doing a sort of almost "BIAB-mash, with the valve almost closed with only some recirculation through the grain bed, with a unstable mash temperature".
B) Keeping a stable mash temperature with maximum wort flow,
and maybe open the grainbasket and stir the mash 1-3 times during the mashing. This will give you a much better efficiency, and correct mashing scheme.
Oh I didn't mean slow it down to a trickle, bad choice of a word on my part. More of a calm recirculation is what I should have said. I took in what you have posted and will give em a whirl the next time I brew. We learn something new everyday. Cheers!!
Chris Meek I wouldnt suggest slowing the recirculation down at all. The flow rate is part of the systems design.
Was thinking I'd do the same - got disappointing OG of 1.050 for an expected 1.065 & thought, if it all pours down the overflow, what good is it doing in the grain wash? Perhaps not full flow, yet not too slow either?
I had safety cut out on my last mash, it was an altbier. I had to empty grainfather clean the treacle like goo off bottom then reset and filled bottom of grainfather with sterilised glass marbles. No problems with safety cut out after this. When you stir the marbles move around and stop burning on the bottom.
+Thomas Small Yes bottom scraping is advisable :)
Great tips David. Is the Youngs yeast nutrient suitable for beer? I use it for Mead but was wondering. Also do you add it to the boil or just straight in the FV. Cheers
Yeast nutrients are generally added to the boil @ 15mins. Some would say that yeast nutrients are equal for all. Others have said that wine nutrients can give off tastes in beer. Ive got both and use each with each only.
Always good your advice David, and video more and more beautiful. In fact I wanted to say in other video (where I smile a lot with Thor the whirpooler) that even with the drill and the simple plastic paddle get big results in oxygenation of the wort, as long as the right time ..
I take this opportunity to ask you, why for boiling the milkshake ipa have chosen 90 minutes .. if you can explain
I also follow the GFgroup but now I was here on youtube.
Thanks and Greetings from Rome
Alessandro Scaglione
Glad you enjoyed it. The reason for the 90 minute boil is as follows:- The main malt is Pilsner and a 90 minute boil will eliminate DMS. The 90 minute boil will also add caramelisation and add more bitterness to the brew using fewer hops compared to a 60 minute boil.
At the caramelization had not thought, in fact rather increases and I had to be careful at the GF bottom, however, the hops I'm adding in first wort hop technique, I'm trying this and several added at the very end. when you try one thing you must also insist a little, at least Im inexperienced. Thanks for your answer
Ale Sca Glad to be of help :)
David great video what size clip did you use to secure the filter please
+Meirion Evans It came in a package of various sizes that are all key adjusted, so I dont know the actual size. Best thing is to take the end piece with you to a store. Sorry. I cant advise more :)
Hi David, I'm bottling my beer and you suggest to leave it in the fermentation vessel for 21 days. Up till now I did this for 14 days and bottled with carbonation drops. Can I do the same after 21 days? You talk about the benefits of bulk conditioning. What do you mean exactly by this and do I need to do something extra before I bottle? Thanks!
Bulk conditioning is where the beer is not split into bottles straight away. Bottling is the same, its just done a week later. Hope this helps :)
Have you calculated the Mash Deadspace Losses and the Trub Loss after chilling? I would like to input the numbers into an Equipment Profile in Beersmith.
Hi Howard, If you join the Grainfather Users Group on Facebook then in the files section is a complete profile that is quite good for Beersmith. The main issue being that Beersmith is not great with single vessel brewing water calculations, so best to do those elsewhere. Hope this speeds things ip for you :)
Hi David, is your electric stirring attachment just one from Screwfix for mixing plaster etc or is it a special one?? Thanks
Christopher Clarke I didnt buy it at screwfix but its a simple mixer all the same :)
Hello David ... great video!
I have a question regarding adding hop pellets to the boil. On my first try with the Grainfather, I just pitched them in according to the recipe but it really clogged my bottom filter. Do you think it would be okay to put the hops and additives in a hop bag to reduce this? I don't want to loose any of those awesome flavours.
James
+James Noonan sure you can but if you whirlpool at 0 minutes this will fix most clogging. Worse case scenario attach a bicycle pump to the wort out of your cfc and you can push the hops off in seconds:)
Thank you David - keep the videos coming!
+James Noonan Glad you enjoyed it , sure will:)
Great video btw , Just one question ,I see you're using a thrumometer, do you take this off before running the hot wort through to sanitise the cf chiller , I heard these are heat sensitive, didn't get one for fear of frying it , thanks again , some nice inspiring work you're doing 👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it. No ive never removed the thrumometer. Never had an issue with it and I check that its temp strip is accurate every beer. Very useful piece of kit.
quick question tip No4 Are you saying stop the pump when recirculation the wort and remove the top plate and give the grain a good stir will assist is a better EFF ?? cheer
+No9 MicroBrew It sure will :)
Whirlpooling with a drill sounds like a good way for moisture to get inside its electrics and break it. IS there much risk of this?
Dan Fix I would only use a drill in a very careful manner. When used sensibly with full control then its a useful tool. Other than that it becomes a hazard!
Doesn't the evaporating wort get inside the drill though?
Dan Fix Ive never had that issue. The mixer paddle is pretty long. Have a look at my milk shake ipa video to see this in action.
Hey David, Your Thrumometer, what's the size of the inlet an outlet? I need to get one of them (yeah yeah yeah, I knoow, I'm too lazy to go digging through my gf to get the chiller out to measure). lol
Hi, its 3/8".
What size hose clamp should I use for the pump?
I think it is best that you contact GF with your serial number as they can vary.
That In-Line Temperature display thingy? I have seen it in a couple of videos you have done but I cannot find it anywhere. Do you have a link or a neame please?
Check this out before deciding which to buy. Full info about two types here. ua-cam.com/video/qRR0yeu2vVc/v-deo.html
Hi David, I have recently started working with the grainfather, but found that the factory filter always leaves between 0.5 and 1 liter of wort behind when transferring to the fermenter. At that point the fluidlevels drop below the reach of the pumpinlet, or so it seems. Do you have any tips on how to improve on this? I always find it a bit wasteful, though not necessary problematic.
+Ej van de beek Its best to leave that behind! It contains all the stuff you do not want in your fermentation :)
Ah, great to know! Thanks for the feedback. I love your videos. They are simultaneously highly informative as well as soothing :) Another question I had: is there a rule of thumb regarding the amount of hop to be used when dryhopping? I understand this varies highly with the type of hop used, but I was hoping some general idea might help me in my experiments.
+Ej van de beek Thats great to hear :)
Dry hop wise 2-8g is possible per litre. Both sides being extremes. Approx 3.5g per litre is fairly normal, if that exists anymore in these hoppy days.
Ej van de beek /
I've watched all 3 videos maybe I've missed something. I think I've seen it in one of your videos in the past what size is the silicone tubing for the counter counterflow chiller ? If you knew the US size that would be great
Brad hambrick 3/8” inner diameter :)
David Heath thank you sir
David Heath what other connectors etc did you use to extend hose? Thanks
Just the Blichmann thrumometer. Gf have their own for release soon, which is cheaper and more accurate though.
David Heath you used thrumometer ro extend chiller hoses to use on chair?
Regarding the 21 days in the fermenter if bottling do you then recommend dry hopping at day 16/17 ?
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I do wish the person who gave this a thumbs down would say why....!
skraelingshortbus haha yeah could be! I am open to criticism though, if someone doesnt like a video then its good to know why :)
Thumbs down because more thank half of the tips aren't related to the grainfather at all. Things like: " have an extra yeast packet" or "use Star San"...
I mean, don't get me wrong, those are nice tips, but the video title is a bit misleading. (clickbait?)
It certainly is not intended to be clickbait or misleading...Clickbait would be to make the title more general and call it Homebrew hints and tips. I make no money from the channel, its niche.
Ok, maybe thumbs downs was a bit too harsh (I just changed it), after all, like I said, those are good brewing tips. But I think my point still remains standing.... Good luck with your Grainfather and keep the videos coming.
Well this was a good video to watch......SEEING AS THO MY GF ARRIVES THIS FRIDAY :)))
plusthebadger Great :) Plenty more on the channel that should prove useful also :) congrats on the purchase.
I'v watched a lot of your videos, specially like the one where you did sous vide using the GF, that one will come in specially useful for appeasing the missus when she finds out iv blown the best part of a grand on shiny metal ( got the sparge heater and coat too )
very exited as this (apart from a few mini mash's) is my first venture in to all grain
I got my GF about 2 weeks ago. I already have done two brews on it. The first batch was a dud. After one week, still no active fermentation. I think I am just going to throw a simple sugar starter (one that yields about 14% abv for another summertime drink I make) and see how that works. The other one I made this past Sunday was my own Octoberfest version. Within 3 hours it had an active fermentation. This Sunday I'm brewing another beer. I love my Grainfather, I don't know what I'm going to do with all my other equipment! maybe brew three or four beers in one day I suppose!!!
haha yeah. Its a good idea keep the missus happy too!
Hmm...?
1) First, you stir the protein foam into the wort while boiling, as "they are part of the flavour":
"GRAINFATHER HINTS AND TIPS COLLECTION", at 6:32:
ua-cam.com/video/P-KOUAN1RQE/v-deo.html
2) Then, when bottling, you add "Biersol" to *get rid of the proteins*(!):
"Homebrew Beer Bottling A-Z Guide", tip 10, at 8:12:
ua-cam.com/video/WLSEJCnRyWo/v-deo.html
Now, can you see why I am confused by the contradicting methods....?
Why don´t you skim the foam off when boiling, and never bother with the "Biersol"?
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