My easy home brew fermentation guide Channel links:- groups/Brewbeer www.teespring.... Introduction music:- Drink Beer (Till The Day That I Die) by Dazie Mae
Hello David. Your Videos are the best brewing information I have seen for home brewers. My own brewing experimentation has benefited greatly from watching then. Great format. Thanks. Andy
I hate to post on a 2 year old video, but how in the heck does this thing have 29k views and not even 1000 likes? Come on guys! Show David some love! And David, thanks for all your helpful and informative videos.
Thanks Max :) I think most viewers these days do not have accounts and even if they do they watch on TV and the like button is sadly forgotten. This is seen all over UA-cam.
very true. but im quilty of this as well as would alot of David's subscribers obviously. always looking forward to all David's videos, and i have watched them all and yet still forget to "like", just too excited to watch his next video. i do like that David keeps reminding us to "like" his video.
Thanks for all of your videos. It's helped me get started with brewing generally, and with the grainfather specifically. "David says that..." has been uttered more than once on brewing day with my friends!
I actually do. I'm 3.5 days into my first fermentation on a 1.079 OG wort with wlp007. Fermentation seems to be slowing down based on co2 release. I'm wondering if this yeast strain might benefit from a temperature increase or not. I've had it stable at 18C until now. Will make notes for later either way 😊
+Sveinung Marvik Its best to keep it low in the opening week for those types of yeast. Its normal to see slowdown and perfectly fine. Start increasing after 10 days , at 1 deg c per day.
As I'm sure everyone has realised, a 1 degrees Celsius change is 1.8 degrees Fahrenheit, not 33.8. Changing yeast temp by 33.8F would lead to certain disappointment.
Yes, it has been pointed out :) Imperial is a very old system that I totally forgot on this one. Hopefully the US goes metric soon like the rest of the world, well heres hoping at least!
Yet another awesome & well organized educational video from David! Timing of the subject worked just right for me. I was just suspecting a stuck fermation with my APA batch. After 7 days of primary, my hydrometer reading was just at 1.022. I have prepared 250 ml water, 20 g sugar and 5 g US-05 dry yeast and hydrated at starting temp of 29 C for 30 mins before pitching to secondary. My fermentaion temp is 19-20 C. Tomorrow (+7 days period), I will get a reading again and see how well it worked and whether lowered the density or not.
If it is recommended to raise temperature by 1C each day that means same as 1.8F each day. To raise temp from 18C to 20C over 2 days is same as 64.4F to 68F an increase of 3.6F.
Hi I have been brewing successfully for last eight months. I live in Cholistan in Pakistan (close to Indian border), it is a desert where our summers are very long and harsh, the temperature reaches up to 50 degrees celsius. During, my previous homebrewing experiences (wine/beers), the fermentation process ended in 17 - 19 days during summers. Winters are short but night time temperature drops a lot, this morning (December 14) when I checked my beer, there are very few bubbles, or I can say almost no fermentation, while it is only the 10th day today. I need to mention in the past, whether I brewed 5 liters, 7 or 10 liters, I have always used the dry yeast sachet of 10 grams regardless the quantity of liquid, but this time I have brewed 20 liters of beer and the amount of yeast I added was still the same (10 g pack). But anyway as it is the mid of winters and the temperature yesterday during the day time was 9 degrees c and during the night it was -1 last night so I need to ask: If this quicker completion of fermentation process is due to colder weather? Is it due to larger amount of liquid (20 liters) and less yeast (10 g)? Or shall I add some more yeast while the brew is already 10 days older? I thank you in advance, and hope that you would be able to answer as soon as you could. (whatsapp +923007003492)
Hi Ahmed, sorry for the days it took to reply. Fermentation speed, from a temperature point of view is that the warmer things are the faster they will go. Speed is also effected by type of yeast (kveik is by far the fastest known to man) , gravity of wort and yeast health. Pitching rate is very important for yeast health. Having a stable temperature is also more important to some yeast than others. It really is best to have temperature control to smooth this out for the best results in general. However, kveik yeast is ideal for the hotter temps and really needs little temperature control either. So you would be best advised to look in this direction also. I have many videos on my channel about kveik.
While 1 degree C is equal to 33.8 degrees F, a change of 1 degree C does NOT equal a change of 33.8 degrees F. It equals a change 0f 1.8 degrees Fahrenheit.
Hi David first many thanks for your educational video they are always an excellent reference and a must to revisit to refresh and hone practices. Question: I was preparing a batch of five gallons of ipa , before ten minutes of the end of boil I added a Yeast nutrient from an American yeast producer. I mistakenly over added. The recommended dose was 2.2 grams We poured the whole thing 42 grams.... so far fermentation looks good and reasonable but fearful of the overdose if the resulting beer would have any nasty result because of the over dose of nutrient.... what do you think? You think still drinkable or any off flavors?
In scenario two, another issue could be due to an unexpected incomplete conversion of the mash. If the FG is too high, adding some amylase enzyme will help convert some more of the complex sugars.
+Fermentation Adventures Thanks for your input. I am not a big fan of the stuff personally as I've had mixed results. Its interesting that people still use it though, I thought its use had gone redundant.
David Heath true, now I think about it the enzyme is more a "hack" than in the theme of your video. I have used it to "fix" some mash problems in the past and had decent results. I certainly wouldn't advocate it beyond a last resort. By the way, great video!
Fermentation Adventures Yeah the problem ive had with it is that it usually goes too far and really dries a beer out too much. Glad you liked the video :)
1 degree C is 1.8 degree F. Ok 33.8 degrees F is 1 degree F, but it's the differential is the thing we need to know. That bit was confusing, but apart from that another excellent video.
+noneMan1 Yes. Mash temps on the higher end create a less fermentable wort. This is useful for certain styles where this is useful like in certain types of stout, for example.
Hello David!! thank you very much for your fantastic videos, I have been learning a lot with them. I have a question which I hope that you answer me please. Firstly, I ferment for 10 days 18ºC, then others 10 days raising 1 degree per day and finally, I make cold crash for 5 or 6 days 1ºC. Should I remove the yeast before the cold crash or after??I have the doubt that if I remove the yeast, Oxigen will enter into the fermenter, and after the coldcrash, when I remove the sediment, another time will enter oxigen. Can I do it?? what way is better?? It´s so important to avoid the oxigen contact??? Thank you very much. You are doing a good job!!
Hi David, I have brewed an IPA with US05. Gravity readings suggest the beer is done fermenting after 14 days, however there is an off flavour that is not banana, not sour but a bit harsh and clean at the beginning, at the end I taste the aroma of the hops. I have already bottled it so let’s see what comes out. The only thing I can think of is that the fermentation temp was constant at 22-23 degrees Celsius as it was really hot in my house the last weeks. Would that cause any strange flavours? I also did dry pitching (one packet) for 25L of wort, is that maybe underpitching? Let me know what you think. I am a great fan of your videos!
Thanks David, I have not made IPA before, so therefor I could determine this taste. Let’s hope you are right, US05 should be good under 24 degrees. Fingers crossed. I am working with a mundschenk/hopcat/brewmonk, latest edition. I very much enjoyed your comparison videos, and that’s why I decided not to buy the Braumeister equipment lol
Im wondering what it means/what to do when a new batch fizzed and fermented like crazy the first day and on the second day there is little to no bubbling going on.. thank you!!
Hi David, if you have time to answer; at present I'm only using my airing cupboard to ferment the beer. What do you think of using an aquarium heater inside a big bucket filled with sanitised water, and dropping the fermentation bucket inside that?
david -a question a few of us have been wondering is, does your starter temp matter, as most of the stir plates dont have heating ? ie if the ambient temp is in the range of 14-24C and u are using a stirplate , do u need to worry about temp control eg US05 & W34/70 yeasts?
Hey Tim, I would suggest getting a heated stirplate. Room heating will give temperature swings. This is not going to give the best results for most yeast.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew probably a better question is - do u use a temperature control for your starters eg a fridge with temp monitor ? If this is the case, do you complete your starters at the same temp as your fermentation that this yeast is going to be used for ? Many thanks in advance.
hi David, excellent video thanks. I have a weisse beer fermenting currently that took only a few days to drop from 1062 down to 1023, at which point i threw in 2kgs of raspberries and it hasn't moved from 1023 in the week and a half since... now 1023 is too high to bottle, so would it be worth transferring to a secondary fermenter, taking some of the yeast off the bottom of the fermenter to create a starter and then pitching that back in to the secondary to try to move it down from 1023?
Thanks David, I have tried that and the airlock began bubbling a little again, but after a few days still no movement in the gravity from 1023. I can imagine adding 2kg raspberries would have increased the gravity but unsure how much... in any case, 1023 feels too high to bottle with risk for exploding bottles. Any further advice in this case?
Yes that is too high for such a style. So the next step would be to make a starter with fresh yeast. For the best results put it on a stir plate, if you have one. If not then lots of hand stirring is suggested as often as you can. You want the yeast to be active within the starter before pitching it. You can use your actual wort as the starter liquid. This will fix your gravity issue. The next thing to do is to try to work out what caused this issue. It could be a bad yeast batch of course but it is wise to rule out everything else also for future consideration.
My SG was low (1.055 instead of 1.075) to start and I think I mashed at 10C too high a temperature. It's an NEIPA and I was using Lalbrew Verdant yeast which took off quickly and had a vigorous fermentation after 24 hrs but only lasted 24 hrs like that. The gravity got to 1.038 and stopped. It's supposed to go to 1.014 I gave the fermenter a swirl and got some signs of activity but then after a few hours it had stopped again so I pitched another packet of yeast. fermentation began again and then stopped. Currently at 1.037 and going nowhere. Measurements are by BrewBrain. The first time I did this beer my SG was low at 1.060 but ran to a FG of 1.013 which gave an acceptable 6.2% ABV approx. I'm not sure what to do next........Probably chuck it and start again I suppose.
Hi Steve, it sounds like you denatured your mash pretty fast at the higher temperature and as such created at wort with low fermentability. Sorry but I think it is time for another brew.
David, my next brew will be your Reiterated Mash Imperial Stout. Your estimated ABV was 13.5% and I notice that the Mangrove Jacks # 42 yeast has an alcohol tolerance of 12%. I was wondering if it would be better to use a yeast with a higher tolerance or is it close enough to achieve a good result. How did your Stout finish up?
When doing a yeast starter for liquid yeast, can you let it run on the stir plate at room temperature or should you stir it at the recommended fermentation temperature listed for the type yeast? I have a lager yeast that I received in the mail that got warm during shipping so I want to ensure it’s viability via a starter. I would rather let it run at room temperature vs putting it in the fermentation chamber at the much lower temperature.
Hey David, Thank you for this beautiful video. I am a bit late to the party but I recently started to homebrew. 3 beers, out of which two see bottle conditioning currently. My question to you is: I want to become a brewer, do you suggest going to a brewing school or just simply keep homebrewing and get some contacts along the way? Thank you again! Have a great one
Hi Tejas, better late than never:) keep homebrewing and get qualified. Most brewers will only employ brewers with a certificate. I warn you though, it's not much fun in a brewery:)
Hahaha, that's okay. For me it's about producing a good beer and hence increasing the awareness of different styles of beer. You are commercial brewer yourself, correct?
Hi David, thanks for the video. I am currently fermenting a 15Lt IIPA wort kit. It was made with an s.g. of 1095. I didn't add extra water as I wanted a strong, hoppy beer. I hydrated 2 packets of US 05 for an hour at the same 18c that the wort was kept at and then added that to the aerated wort. A few hours later there was activity in the airlock (18c). I've been advised to dry hop in the last third of a 14-day ferment and I have a temp control fridge. Would you advise changing the temp profile at any stage? Also, what final gravity would a person expect to see for this style of beer, please?
Hi, Hmm interesting. I am not sure how this will work out as they are designed to have water added. Its going to be pretty thick stuff right? Kits like this do vary though. I would expect under normal circumstances that US05 would drop such a beer down to 1,010 or there abouts. I would raise this one to 21C at 1C per day after day 10.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thx very much, David. I'm just trying to making a hoppy, strong IIPA like the stuff in the cans for $10 AUD here in Australia. Will this type of brew need to be drunk fresh or stored for a while?
Hi David, I have heard of people adding their yeast to a glass of wort to "wake the yeast up" a few hours before pitching. From what I understand it's the middle ground between a yeast starter and simply pitching yeast to the final wort. What are your thoughts on this?
+Chris Philpot Yes I have also done this, it works well. I showed this in the Norwegian kveik videos as part of the tradition. Personally I believe that as long as you create the right wort environment all will go well without any yeast rehydration. It certainly hasn't slowed any of my fermentations down either way.
Thanks David for another great educational video. I have a somewhat unrelated question: what is your video introductory theme song? I love it, but I can't quite make out the lyrics.
+Anthony Marks Thanks :) That song was something I found when looking for copyright free music. Im not sure on every word of it either but I found it to be very catchy, so it went with it :)
Hi David, a couple of questions regarding calculation of ABV after some changes dunring and after the fermentation process. I have a Weiss beer which started at 1.062 and has made it's way down to 1.009 giving me about 7%, however after fermentation was part way through I added 2kgs of raspberries... what kind of effect would this have on abv? Secondly, when adding a hop tea, it should decrease the abv by diluting the beer by say 1 or 2 litres depending on the amount of water in the tea. How can I add these 2 changes in the calculation of final abv? Can you suggest a good calculation tool?
+Jon B The best thing to do is to put all fermentables in a calculator. Though you can take a gravity reading before and after additions to be totally sure. With hop tea I take 500ml out of the sparge water, As I will be using that amount for the tea. There is a free calc for the grainfather, that is reasonable or I think brewers friend has something free also. Personally I think Beersmith is worth the cash.
Hi David I've brewed my third beer, a pale ale. I've put it in the all rounder in the fermentation chamber at 19° with a packet of dry US05. I've had a look after 12hrs and there's no signs of fermentation starting yet, which I get is normal for US05, but the colour has gone quite dark. Is oxidation possible before primary fermentation? Or is there another explanation? Much appreciated James
@@DavidHeathHomebrew fab. Didn't think so but had to double check. Was just confused as to why it went from a nice goldish colour to dark brown / almost black overnight. Looking forward to seeing how it pans out over the coming week or two. Thanks legend!!!!!
David,I have read that for ale worts with an OG over 1.050, 2 sachets of dried yeast should be used. Is this really necessary for a well prepared wort? I always get a quick start to my fermentations [ 23L ] and a good finish irrespective of the OG. The beer always ends up good.
Hi David! Again... lol. You do t mention desired pitching temps? If you say @ 18c for 7 days and up 1 each day for 3, should i assume you are pitching at 18c? Total newbie question, but I know you are good for it😉👍🏻
No problem at all Paul. Yes, in this case the pitching temp is 18. Pitching temp is always the very first temperature and 18C is a common one. It is also common after a week or so to add 1C per day until you reach 21C. This protects against one particular off flavour and helps your yeast finish its job. I hope this helps :)
Hi, do you mean same result from dry yeast compared to liquid with a starter? If so then yes. Yeast is yeast and the form of it matters little. There are some yeast types that are only liquid or dry though. So it depends on what you are looking for really.
David Heath Homebrew Many comments already gave the right answer. I figured I should give the wrong one. ;-) Thanks for the video by the way. Very well made!
A temp change of 1 Deg C per day is equivalent to 1.8 Deg F per day, not 33.8 Deg F. 33.8 Deg F is the same temp as 1 Deg C but this is not the same as a change in temp of 1 Deg C. Conversion formula is Deg F = (Deg C x 1.8) + 32. i.e. 1.8 Deg F change for every 1 Deg C change but 1 C absolute is 33.8 F absolute
David Heath Homebrew thanks for your reply. I just have a doubt about the whirlpool, and also the mashing,. To my understanding the only time the wort should be aerated is once it’s cool down right before pitching, but in you seem to (how to say it...) manipulate your wort during mashing and boiling and then specially during the whirlpool, allowing the wort to get oxygen. Do I have the wrong information? Or that doesn’t really aerate the wort? I’m just afraid of messing around with my wort so that the beer can oxidized later on. Thanks a lot, I’m learning a lot with your videos.
Actually, the yeast DON'T NEED oxygen. By definition, the fermentation is a process NOT using oxygen. However, yeast can use both oxygenic respiration (yes, there are respirations using the final electron acceptor which is not oxygen) and fermentation. Since the respiration generates more energy for a cell, the yeast will multiply much faster. This results in a higher biomass production, which translates in a faster fermentation (without using oxygen). Without oxygen there will be fermentation, but some flavors can change with a smaller starting biomass. Also, wort is NOT infected, it is CONTAMINATED. those two terms are not the same thing - microbiology 101.
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Hello David. Your Videos are the best brewing information I have seen for home brewers. My own brewing experimentation has benefited greatly from watching then. Great format. Thanks. Andy
Many thanks Andrew, that is much appreciated :)
I hate to post on a 2 year old video, but how in the heck does this thing have 29k views and not even 1000 likes? Come on guys! Show David some love! And David, thanks for all your helpful and informative videos.
Thanks Max :) I think most viewers these days do not have accounts and even if they do they watch on TV and the like button is sadly forgotten. This is seen all over UA-cam.
very true. but im quilty of this as well as would alot of David's subscribers obviously. always looking forward to all David's videos, and i have watched them all and yet still forget to "like", just too excited to watch his next video. i do like that David keeps reminding us to "like" his video.
Likes are nice to receive :) The most important thing though is getting good information out to people who need it.
Thanks for all of your videos. It's helped me get started with brewing generally, and with the grainfather specifically. "David says that..." has been uttered more than once on brewing day with my friends!
+Sveinung Marvik I am glad they are helpful, that is my aim :) If you have any questions feel free to ask.
I actually do. I'm 3.5 days into my first fermentation on a 1.079 OG wort with wlp007. Fermentation seems to be slowing down based on co2 release. I'm wondering if this yeast strain might benefit from a temperature increase or not. I've had it stable at 18C until now. Will make notes for later either way 😊
+Sveinung Marvik Its best to keep it low in the opening week for those types of yeast. Its normal to see slowdown and perfectly fine. Start increasing after 10 days , at 1 deg c per day.
As I'm sure everyone has realised, a 1 degrees Celsius change is 1.8 degrees Fahrenheit, not 33.8. Changing yeast temp by 33.8F would lead to certain disappointment.
Yes, it has been pointed out :) Imperial is a very old system that I totally forgot on this one. Hopefully the US goes metric soon like the rest of the world, well heres hoping at least!
Thanks, I hope I can solve my pump problem now.
Cheers, fingers crossed :)
Thank you David for this awesome Clip. Ii Love beeing a member of the FB Group and now i should get my Fermentation Back Up running.
Glad you found it useful Martin :) Yes, the FB group is proving to be very popular :)
Yet another awesome & well organized educational video from David! Timing of the subject worked just right for me. I was just suspecting a stuck fermation with my APA batch. After 7 days of primary, my hydrometer reading was just at 1.022. I have prepared 250 ml water, 20 g sugar and 5 g US-05 dry yeast and hydrated at starting temp of 29 C for 30 mins before pitching to secondary. My fermentaion temp is 19-20 C. Tomorrow (+7 days period), I will get a reading again and see how well it worked and whether lowered the density or not.
+Revas Thanks. 7 days is really abit too early. I would suggest waiting another week.Try rousing and temp increase first.
Another outstanding little film
Thanks for sharing your knowledge on this
When I get started I will be back
Thanks again
Cheers
Thanks Andy, glad it is helpful :)
Celsius to Fahrenheit is offset by 32f, each degC is just 1.8f.
If it is recommended to raise temperature by 1C each day that means same as 1.8F each day. To raise temp from 18C to 20C over 2 days is same as 64.4F to 68F an increase of 3.6F.
Ok thanks, personally I only use metric but as long as you Imperial guys understand then all is good :)
Incrededly helpful. Thanks David.
Great to hear, thanks Greg
Hey David, just letting you know that when changing the temperature one degree C is equal to 9/5 degrees F. Thank you for your great videos though.
Thank you :)
Hi
I have been brewing successfully for last eight months. I live in Cholistan in Pakistan (close to Indian border), it is a desert where our summers are very long and harsh, the temperature reaches up to 50 degrees celsius. During, my previous homebrewing experiences (wine/beers), the fermentation process ended in 17 - 19 days during summers. Winters are short but night time temperature drops a lot, this morning (December 14) when I checked my beer, there are very few bubbles, or I can say almost no fermentation, while it is only the 10th day today.
I need to mention in the past, whether I brewed 5 liters, 7 or 10 liters, I have always used the dry yeast sachet of 10 grams regardless the quantity of liquid, but this time I have brewed 20 liters of beer and the amount of yeast I added was still the same (10 g pack). But anyway as it is the mid of winters and the temperature yesterday during the day time was 9 degrees c and during the night it was -1 last night so I need to ask:
If this quicker completion of fermentation process is due to colder weather?
Is it due to larger amount of liquid (20 liters) and less yeast (10 g)?
Or shall I add some more yeast while the brew is already 10 days older?
I thank you in advance, and hope that you would be able to answer as soon as you could.
(whatsapp +923007003492)
Hi Ahmed, sorry for the days it took to reply. Fermentation speed, from a temperature point of view is that the warmer things are the faster they will go. Speed is also effected by type of yeast (kveik is by far the fastest known to man) , gravity of wort and yeast health. Pitching rate is very important for yeast health. Having a stable temperature is also more important to some yeast than others. It really is best to have temperature control to smooth this out for the best results in general. However, kveik yeast is ideal for the hotter temps and really needs little temperature control either. So you would be best advised to look in this direction also. I have many videos on my channel about kveik.
I live in a hot country too and strongly suggest you using kveik yeast or having a dedicated refrigerator
:)
Thank you David for great Yeast tips. Love this video. I learned a lot.
Thats great to hear Daniel :)
+Daniel Smith My pleasure, glad it helped out :)
Hi David thank you for a very informative video , thanks Ivan
+MultiChef888 Thanks alot Ivan, glad you liked it. More of these easy guides are planned.
Hey David thanks for the video. 1*c =1.8*f if we're nitpicking...:)
Thanks Mark, yes this I now know :) Ive always used metric
Fantastic information here, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Great job!
Jon McCombs many thanks Jon :)
While 1 degree C is equal to 33.8 degrees F, a change of 1 degree C does NOT equal a change of 33.8 degrees F. It equals a change 0f 1.8 degrees Fahrenheit.
Thanks Steve.
Hi David first many thanks for your educational video they are always an excellent reference and a must to revisit to refresh and hone practices. Question: I was preparing a batch of five gallons of ipa , before ten minutes of the end of boil I added a Yeast nutrient from an American yeast producer. I mistakenly over added. The recommended dose was 2.2 grams We poured the whole thing 42 grams.... so far fermentation looks good and reasonable but fearful of the overdose if the resulting beer would have any nasty result because of the over dose of nutrient.... what do you think? You think still drinkable or any off flavors?
No problem there, just simply a waste of nutrients. You will not see any negative effects from this.
Many thanks David 👍
In scenario two, another issue could be due to an unexpected incomplete conversion of the mash. If the FG is too high, adding some amylase enzyme will help convert some more of the complex sugars.
+Fermentation Adventures Thanks for your input. I am not a big fan of the stuff personally as I've had mixed results. Its interesting that people still use it though, I thought its use had gone redundant.
David Heath true, now I think about it the enzyme is more a "hack" than in the theme of your video. I have used it to "fix" some mash problems in the past and had decent results. I certainly wouldn't advocate it beyond a last resort. By the way, great video!
Fermentation Adventures Yeah the problem ive had with it is that it usually goes too far and really dries a beer out too much. Glad you liked the video :)
1 degree C is 1.8 degree F. Ok 33.8 degrees F is 1 degree F, but it's the differential is the thing we need to know. That bit was confusing, but apart from that another excellent video.
+Bruce Morgan Hi Bruce, I looked up the conversion. Sorry if its confusing, I have never used deg F.
At that much each day it will be boiling before the week is out.
Sorry but all I did was see what 1 deg c was in deg F. Ive never used it!
1C is 33.8F however 18C is 64.4F and an increase to 19C is 66.2F which is an increase of 1.8F.
Great video thanks David. Is it true that you can also have a high final gravity if your mash was too high temp creating un fermentable sugars?
+noneMan1 Yes. Mash temps on the higher end create a less fermentable wort. This is useful for certain styles where this is useful like in certain types of stout, for example.
Cheers mate thanks for that. I've learnt so much from your channel.
+noneMan1 Thats great :)
Great vid David!
+Sebastiaan Riga Thanks alot :) I am planning more of these easy guides.
Hello David!! thank you very much for your fantastic videos, I have been learning a lot with them. I have a question which I hope that you answer me please. Firstly, I ferment for 10 days 18ºC, then others 10 days raising 1 degree per day and finally, I make cold crash for 5 or 6 days 1ºC. Should I remove the yeast before the cold crash or after??I have the doubt that if I remove the yeast, Oxigen will enter into the fermenter, and after the coldcrash, when I remove the sediment, another time will enter oxigen. Can I do it?? what way is better?? It´s so important to avoid the oxigen contact??? Thank you very much. You are doing a good job!!
Thank you. What type of fermenter are you using? Cold crashing is usually done in 1-3 days.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew , I,m using a fastferment. A 30 liters conical fermenter. Thank you for your help!!
Hi David, I have brewed an IPA with US05. Gravity readings suggest the beer is done fermenting after 14 days, however there is an off flavour that is not banana, not sour but a bit harsh and clean at the beginning, at the end I taste the aroma of the hops. I have already bottled it so let’s see what comes out. The only thing I can think of is that the fermentation temp was constant at 22-23 degrees Celsius as it was really hot in my house the last weeks. Would that cause any strange flavours? I also did dry pitching (one packet) for 25L of wort, is that maybe underpitching? Let me know what you think. I am a great fan of your videos!
Thanks Frank. It is likely that this will change after some conditioning time. Things need to settle for a little time usually.
Thanks David, I have not made IPA before, so therefor I could determine this taste. Let’s hope you are right, US05 should be good under 24 degrees. Fingers crossed. I am working with a mundschenk/hopcat/brewmonk, latest edition. I very much enjoyed your comparison videos, and that’s why I decided not to buy the Braumeister equipment lol
It was the fact that you used US05 that gave me confidence. It is a very tolerant yeast :)
Im wondering what it means/what to do when a new batch fizzed and fermented like crazy the first day and on the second day there is little to no bubbling going on.. thank you!!
This can be normal for some yeast. All you can do is check the gravity and ensure that the fermentation is ongoing.
Hi David, if you have time to answer; at present I'm only using my airing cupboard to ferment the beer. What do you think of using an aquarium heater inside a big bucket filled with sanitised water, and dropping the fermentation bucket inside that?
Sure no problem. That will work. Though I would suggest you go for a temperature controller and heatbelt :)
david -a question a few of us have been wondering is, does your starter temp matter, as most of the stir plates dont have heating ? ie if the ambient temp is in the range of 14-24C and u are using a stirplate , do u need to worry about temp control eg US05 & W34/70 yeasts?
Hey Tim, I would suggest getting a heated stirplate. Room heating will give temperature swings. This is not going to give the best results for most yeast.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew probably a better question is - do u use a temperature control for your starters eg a fridge with temp monitor ? If this is the case, do you complete your starters at the same temp as your fermentation that this yeast is going to be used for ? Many thanks in advance.
I use a heated stir plate. After this they go into a regular fridge which is nothing specialist. Usually my starters are at regular ferm temps.
hi David, excellent video thanks. I have a weisse beer fermenting currently that took only a few days to drop from 1062 down to 1023, at which point i threw in 2kgs of raspberries and it hasn't moved from 1023 in the week and a half since... now 1023 is too high to bottle, so would it be worth transferring to a secondary fermenter, taking some of the yeast off the bottom of the fermenter to create a starter and then pitching that back in to the secondary to try to move it down from 1023?
+Jon B I would look at increasing temps and rousing the yeast first if you haven’t already.
Thanks David, I have tried that and the airlock began bubbling a little again, but after a few days still no movement in the gravity from 1023. I can imagine adding 2kg raspberries would have increased the gravity but unsure how much... in any case, 1023 feels too high to bottle with risk for exploding bottles. Any further advice in this case?
Yes that is too high for such a style. So the next step would be to make a starter with fresh yeast. For the best results put it on a stir plate, if you have one. If not then lots of hand stirring is suggested as often as you can. You want the yeast to be active within the starter before pitching it. You can use your actual wort as the starter liquid. This will fix your gravity issue. The next thing to do is to try to work out what caused this issue. It could be a bad yeast batch of course but it is wise to rule out everything else also for future consideration.
Thanks David, appreciate the advice and help.
+Jon B No problem, anytime :)
My SG was low (1.055 instead of 1.075) to start and I think I mashed at 10C too high a temperature. It's an NEIPA and I was using Lalbrew Verdant yeast which took off quickly and had a vigorous fermentation after 24 hrs but only lasted 24 hrs like that. The gravity got to 1.038 and stopped. It's supposed to go to 1.014
I gave the fermenter a swirl and got some signs of activity but then after a few hours it had stopped again so I pitched another packet of yeast. fermentation began again and then stopped. Currently at 1.037 and going nowhere. Measurements are by BrewBrain.
The first time I did this beer my SG was low at 1.060 but ran to a FG of 1.013 which gave an acceptable 6.2% ABV approx.
I'm not sure what to do next........Probably chuck it and start again I suppose.
Hi Steve, it sounds like you denatured your mash pretty fast at the higher temperature and as such created at wort with low fermentability. Sorry but I think it is time for another brew.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I was afraid of that. Thanks for the reply though it's always good to get a second opinion. Time to do another batch.
Enjoy the brew 🍻 No real brewer has never dumped a batch.
David, my next brew will be your Reiterated Mash Imperial Stout. Your estimated ABV was 13.5% and I notice that the Mangrove Jacks # 42 yeast has an alcohol tolerance of 12%. I was wondering if it would be better to use a yeast with a higher tolerance or is it close enough to achieve a good result. How did your Stout finish up?
+Mervyn Borjanovic I had no problems at all. Always works out great this recipe. I only share recipes that I have tried and tested.
When doing a yeast starter for liquid yeast, can you let it run on the stir plate at room temperature or should you stir it at the recommended fermentation temperature listed for the type yeast? I have a lager yeast that I received in the mail that got warm during shipping so I want to ensure it’s viability via a starter. I would rather let it run at room temperature vs putting it in the fermentation chamber at the much lower temperature.
You can use room temps snd stir plate if the yeast is happy at that temperature.
Hey David, Thank you for this beautiful video. I am a bit late to the party but I recently started to homebrew. 3 beers, out of which two see bottle conditioning currently.
My question to you is: I want to become a brewer, do you suggest going to a brewing school or just simply keep homebrewing and get some contacts along the way?
Thank you again! Have a great one
Hi Tejas, better late than never:) keep homebrewing and get qualified. Most brewers will only employ brewers with a certificate. I warn you though, it's not much fun in a brewery:)
Hahaha, that's okay. For me it's about producing a good beer and hence increasing the awareness of different styles of beer. You are commercial brewer yourself, correct?
Tejas Deshpande For most of my.life yes but not anymore :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew oh, that's great! I would love to learn more. Good luck producing great content!
Hi David, thanks for the video.
I am currently fermenting a 15Lt IIPA wort kit. It was made with an s.g. of 1095. I didn't add extra water as I wanted a strong, hoppy beer. I hydrated 2 packets of US 05 for an hour at the same 18c that the wort was kept at and then added that to the aerated wort. A few hours later there was activity in the airlock (18c).
I've been advised to dry hop in the last third of a 14-day ferment and I have a temp control fridge. Would you advise changing the temp profile at any stage?
Also, what final gravity would a person expect to see for this style of beer, please?
Hi, Hmm interesting. I am not sure how this will work out as they are designed to have water added. Its going to be pretty thick stuff right? Kits like this do vary though. I would expect under normal circumstances that US05 would drop such a beer down to 1,010 or there abouts. I would raise this one to 21C at 1C per day after day 10.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thx very much, David. I'm just trying to making a hoppy, strong IIPA like the stuff in the cans for $10 AUD here in Australia.
Will this type of brew need to be drunk fresh or stored for a while?
Generally if its hoppy and strong then there will not be much conditioning time :)
Hope you enjoy it
Hi David, I have heard of people adding their yeast to a glass of wort to "wake the yeast up" a few hours before pitching. From what I understand it's the middle ground between a yeast starter and simply pitching yeast to the final wort. What are your thoughts on this?
+Chris Philpot Yes I have also done this, it works well. I showed this in the Norwegian kveik videos as part of the tradition. Personally I believe that as long as you create the right wort environment all will go well without any yeast rehydration. It certainly hasn't slowed any of my fermentations down either way.
Thanks David for another great educational video. I have a somewhat unrelated question: what is your video introductory theme song? I love it, but I can't quite make out the lyrics.
Anthony Marks I too sing that song as I am sitting around my Grainfather
+Chris Philpot Haha nice :)
+Anthony Marks Thanks :) That song was something I found when looking for copyright free music. Im not sure on every word of it either but I found it to be very catchy, so it went with it :)
Hi David, a couple of questions regarding calculation of ABV after some changes dunring and after the fermentation process. I have a Weiss beer which started at 1.062 and has made it's way down to 1.009 giving me about 7%, however after fermentation was part way through I added 2kgs of raspberries... what kind of effect would this have on abv?
Secondly, when adding a hop tea, it should decrease the abv by diluting the beer by say 1 or 2 litres depending on the amount of water in the tea.
How can I add these 2 changes in the calculation of final abv? Can you suggest a good calculation tool?
+Jon B The best thing to do is to put all fermentables in a calculator. Though you can take a gravity reading before and after additions to be totally sure. With hop tea I take 500ml out of the sparge water, As I will be using that amount for the tea. There is a free calc for the grainfather, that is reasonable or I think brewers friend has something free also. Personally I think Beersmith is worth the cash.
Hi David
I've brewed my third beer, a pale ale. I've put it in the all rounder in the fermentation chamber at 19° with a packet of dry US05. I've had a look after 12hrs and there's no signs of fermentation starting yet, which I get is normal for US05, but the colour has gone quite dark.
Is oxidation possible before primary fermentation? Or is there another explanation?
Much appreciated
James
Hi James, the effect cannot come that fast. So no issues there 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew fab. Didn't think so but had to double check. Was just confused as to why it went from a nice goldish colour to dark brown / almost black overnight. Looking forward to seeing how it pans out over the coming week or two. Thanks legend!!!!!
Thats normal . It will clean up later again 🍻🍻🍻
David,I have read that for ale worts with an OG over 1.050, 2 sachets of dried yeast should be used. Is this really necessary for a well prepared wort? I always get a quick start to my fermentations [ 23L ] and a good finish irrespective of the OG. The beer always ends up good.
Yes, Ive seen those also. I don’t do that, nor do breweries that I have worked for. Its commercialism at its finest. Sad but true.
If it worked then great :)
Great 🍻
Your voice is perfect for a brewer 😹
Ok?
Hi David! Again... lol. You do t mention desired pitching temps? If you say @ 18c for 7 days and up 1 each day for 3, should i assume you are pitching at 18c? Total newbie question, but I know you are good for it😉👍🏻
No problem at all Paul. Yes, in this case the pitching temp is 18. Pitching temp is always the very first temperature and 18C is a common one. It is also common after a week or so to add 1C per day until you reach 21C. This protects against one particular off flavour and helps your yeast finish its job. I hope this helps :)
Hello! Can i use dry yeast and get the same result of a dry yeast using a starter? Thank you!
Hi, do you mean same result from dry yeast compared to liquid with a starter? If so then yes. Yeast is yeast and the form of it matters little. There are some yeast types that are only liquid or dry though. So it depends on what you are looking for really.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew sorry, guess my question was not clear. I mean same result from dry yeast compared to "dry yeast" with a starter. Thank you!
Oh sorry I see. As long as the pitch rate is good then both will work just as well.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew the pitch is the marter key! lol thanks a lot!
Sure is :)
Hey David! What should I do if I have a packet of dry yeast and don't need to use it all? is there a way to keep it?
Sure, just be sure to seal in up and that will work.
Small correction: 1deg Celcius is actually equal to 2.38 gallons. Hope this helps!
Haha, do you mean 1deg Celcius is actually equal to9/5 degrees F? Or were you kidding :)
David Heath Homebrew Many comments already gave the right answer. I figured I should give the wrong one. ;-)
Thanks for the video by the way. Very well made!
Haha, I like it :) Glad you enjoyed the video :)
Hi David! Question what happen if i raised 3 degree during fermentation instead of 1 degree per day?
Can cause off flavors?
Thank you Cheers!
Hi, it really depends on the yeast used but yes you can expect off flavours from many.
The three most important things to know about brewing, sanitation, sanitation, sanitation. Well unless you like sour beer. =)
Yup, very true :)
A temp change of 1 Deg C per day is equivalent to 1.8 Deg F per day, not 33.8 Deg F. 33.8 Deg F is the same temp as 1 Deg C but this is not the same as a change in temp of 1 Deg C. Conversion formula is Deg F = (Deg C x 1.8) + 32. i.e. 1.8 Deg F change for every 1 Deg C change but 1 C absolute is 33.8 F absolute
Many thanks Andy. Yes, others pointed this out too. Lesson learnt, I am just working in metric.
A 1ºC temperature increase corresponds to a 1.8ºF rise
Thanks, yes a few others mentioned that too 🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Sorry, I had a quick look and didn't see anything!
No problem at all 🍻🍻🍻
1°C = 33.8°F
So after two days i can turn it up 2°C or 67.6°F.
Many thanks for comfirming this. Imperial is not something that I knew much about when making this video.
no worries.
You probably mean 1°C or 1.8°F per day?
Yes, sorry I am not used to imperial. 🍻🍻
Oh man, I almost vomit looking at those nasty krausen, I hope I never encounter that. Great video again, Salud!
Haha yes it sure is nasty stuff. Many thanks for your feedback, much appreciated.
David Heath Homebrew thanks for your reply. I just have a doubt about the whirlpool, and also the mashing,. To my understanding the only time the wort should be aerated is once it’s cool down right before pitching, but in you seem to (how to say it...) manipulate your wort during mashing and boiling and then specially during the whirlpool, allowing the wort to get oxygen. Do I have the wrong information? Or that doesn’t really aerate the wort? I’m just afraid of messing around with my wort so that the beer can oxidized later on. Thanks a lot, I’m learning a lot with your videos.
Actually, the yeast DON'T NEED oxygen. By definition, the fermentation is a process NOT using oxygen. However, yeast can use both oxygenic respiration (yes, there are respirations using the final electron acceptor which is not oxygen) and fermentation. Since the respiration generates more energy for a cell, the yeast will multiply much faster. This results in a higher biomass production, which translates in a faster fermentation (without using oxygen). Without oxygen there will be fermentation, but some flavors can change with a smaller starting biomass. Also, wort is NOT infected, it is CONTAMINATED. those two terms are not the same thing - microbiology 101.
Thanks for your thoughts here :)
if i ever saw infections like those photos on my beer i'd light the brewery on fire and move. #p3brews
Haha :)