@darthnihilus7511 the setting are different on each printer, this isn't just a plug and play solution. Please watch the videos and understand how to tune this correctly
I had to do different numbers on X and Y My Neptune 4 Max is currently set to (X)driver_SGTHRS:75 (X)homing_speed:50 (Y)driver_SGTHRS:45 (Y)homing_speed:80
I played with this last night on my N4M. My final numbers were 75 for X, 40 for Y, Homing speed 50. So far so good. I mentioned your video in my TikTok today and provided links to it. Thanks for the info!
@@TheFeralEngineer hey mate, so mine N4M was way too sensitive for Y. Not your fault but this video threw me for a bit since my printer kept crashing at the front since it was moving 4 10mm back and saying it was homed. the Driver_sgthrs was 110 out of box and i had changed it to 40. now it works perfectly. :)
OMG THANK YOU. i thought i was going crazy. my printer was crashing at the front because the 110 for Y was making my Y only move back 10mm before it said it was homed. apparently my printer was too sensitive.
Thank you sir! My only complaint about the plus so far has been the homing. A small speed adjustment and the y-axis lightly touches the back, no more piledriver on my desk! You have been an amazing resource for my Neptune series of printers.
Great video and honestly led me down a testing rabbit hole, but saved me from tossing the printer on eBay. Thank you for taking the time to do this. One caveat about belt tightening as an issues, over tightening can create issues with print quality, so you may need to adjust your settings a bit once your belts are perfect to ensure you don’t have false positives on your “virtual switches”
By the way. Although this advice did not solve my problem it did provide a lot of good advice. My problem turned out to be a hardware issue. My power went out which interrupted the print. That caused a jerk which caught my print head on the model. The actual part of the print head that got caught was the sensor. It got knocked to one side. This can be caused by vibration over time but the screw that holds the sensor in place can become loose enough for this to occur. So, my advice is add a check for your regular maintenance list.
I had a few more minutes to go into more detail, rather than just telling people where to look for the stuff. Business trips are the devil sometimes 😂😂
The past 2 months my Neptune A10 Warthog 4 Max was going behind the build plate and shoving the nozzle below the bed then grinding it across the side of the bed...I lowered my sensitivity on one and increased it on the other and so far this seems to have helped me with my issue. They were originally 110 for each at 50 speed. I kept the speed the same however.
You just saved me a whole lot of headache with this explanation. I started with a problem and while fixing it I ended up with 3 problems. This solves two of them but I’m still trying to figure out the first one still. Maybe you can help on that one as well. What happened is that klipper allowed me to move Z up too much (maybe wrong config), and Z got to the top and kept trying to go up, so that messed up Z. Now I can’t make Z0 be zero… It’s like -40 for me now
Elegoo has an update for the printer and tft now and it also fixes this issue. They tweeked the settings SGTHRS to 110 on X and Y and homing speed to 50 (and a few other changes). This fixed my BRRRRT but I am still having an issue of Y shifting on larger prints. I printed the benchy just fine, but my large prints are failing. It seems very random, one print failed after an hour, one failed after 22 hours(ugh) and everything in between. It is a new product and they still have some work to do. I've been providing feedback to Elegoo so I'm sure they will get it fixed, but it is frustrating.
@@TheFeralEngineer Oh yeah, I know that's what you've done here (thank you by the way). I was just trying to get more info from @treecah about where the firmware update might be found 🤓
To my knowledge this is not released as I was working directly with tech support. I think they may want to do more testing as once it is released everyone will want to do the update. Generally, it's best that the rule "if it's not broke don't fix it applies". I'm not sure they didn't base at least part of their fix off of TheFeralEngineer's channels findings. I will ask them directly if the link can be shared.
How do you restore the original settings from Orca? I tried tweaking this, and it just rammed it just kept pushing into my bed and I had to re-tighten all the eccentric screws. I didn't write down the original numbers, so is there a restore button in orca slicer that I don't see?
Cheers mate..I ended up doing a factory reset and adjusted only the homing speed on my X and Z axis and it has eliminated that metal thud. Literally moved from an ender 3 pro to this beast and after using marlin and going to this, I'm definitely wading in deep water so it's good that there are creators like you that allow me to learn 👍👍👍
Hey man! Great video. Im trying to troubleshoot my 4 Plus, but i cant get the grinding in the y axis to stop. My best settings are at 110 and 50 for homing speed. Tweaking the settings has resulted in some markedly terrifying failures with me needing to shut the thing down through Fluidd. Im really at a loss for how to get that to stop. Any additional advice?
Check belt tension. They need to be fairly tight, but not guitar string tight. After that, it's just trial and error. That's why I say to keep you finger on the trigger, though... Crazy sht can happen 😅. Are you in their latest firmware?
@@TheFeralEngineer Yep! I just updated it today. I actually just did a full teardown of my carriage and a full reassembly as well, so my belt tension SHOULD be tight.
Hey, i hope you see this comment. I recently updated the firmware of my N4 Pro, since then there has been a noise coming from the printer (there were no similar noises before). I'd say it's an "energy" sound, like those you hear coming from high voltage cables. Is this normal? My reasoning is that the updated firmware draws more energy as it needs it to achieve 500mm/s but i don't really know since i'm a complete noob.
Can you take a little video and email it to me so I can hear what you mean? Firmware changes don't usually equate to sounding like high power lines. Only thing I can think is the new printer.cfg has stealthchop turned off.
Hmmm...I might be wrong but my understanding is that the reason why (at least for neptune4) the "BrrrrrrRrrrr" drilling happens is because the sensor only works for steel material. When the drilling happened I quickly put on the PEI plate and the sensor did what it was supposed to do. Just my thought. Thanks for this video tho!
You are wrong, actually. The issue I'm talking about is X and Y axis sensorless homing. What you're talking about is the Z axis crashing when it can't sense metal
@@TheFeralEngineer yeah I was only talking about the Z drilling. I came to this video from your part 1 and I did learn something new. I will definitely input the code. Quick Q. Do you know how I can turn off the pressure and smooth completely in fluidd? I have to turn them off every time manually.
Hi Feral, I love your useful setup for the NEPTUNE 4 max. I am wondering if you are able to help me with my current issue with mine? Everything is fine, but today when I clicked home for Z. The Z axis kept pushing into the bed, as if the motors want to keep turning. I haven't messed with anything on the printer physically seeing it's brand new. I posted my problem on Reddit in hopes someone had a similar issue and was able to resolve it. SO now here I am asking if you are able to help me?
Test your sensor with QUERY_PROBE and make sure it can sense the metal surface you can command it through klipper console in fluidd. If that doesn't work, check the connections. On some of the 3 machines, the wires got pinched during assembly
Question - maybe I’m overthinking this, but if this setting could vary from printer to printer bc of different factors like belt tension, how could a firmware update fix this?
The changes in cfg will more than likely resolve the homing issue 99.9997% of the time, but the actual system update attempts to rectify other issues as well, like some machines experiencing z offset errors, WiFi connectivity issues and mcu shutdown issues. It just happens that the Linux image they send out has a more fine tuned printer.cfg with their newly found, happy settings. I'm hoping they push some of their fixes to mainline mks pi firmware because I've got two bricks that suffer from chronic mcu shutdowns waiting for more a robust Linux distro. I've had such poor experiences with the rockchip rk3328 as a whole that when i found out elegoo and sovol were both using them in their Klipper products, I kinda winced a little... ok, a lottle...
When homing, i have the z axis climb, pause, and climb, then freeze with a wirring noise. Is there settings in the advanced setting menu that can help this?I do not have the software you are using. Neptune 3 plus. Thanks, James
@TheFeralEngineer i have checked it. Funny thing is, it has homed fine, printed great, then it wont home the following day to print. I basically move the hot end around with the arrows on the keypad...then it homes, sometimes. Strange
@@BatmanIII sounds like you might have an intermittent short in the probe. When they assemble the extruder head, sometimes the wires get pinched and severed inside of the insulation. Email elegoo and they'll probably send you a new one: 3dp@elegoo.com
Checked the wiring and connection. "Looks" fine. Must be the pcb or the wiring connectors arent making the connection maybe. I hit up elegoo support, awaiting response
Im trying to get my 4 max working and i cant get the sensitivity tuned in no matter what. I can home one time and get a false home reading, and then hot home again without changing anything and the axis will overtravel and start grinding. What am i doing wrong,
@TheFeralEngineer I got the firmware update, and that fixed the problem. It homes fine now, but when I run auto level, it gets stuck at the z-height adjustment because the screen seems to freeze.
@@TheFeralEngineer Thanks for your input. I'd ask how to make sure the belts are tensioned correctly? And I do have some audible sqeaking/vibrations when the printer head is moving fast. Is that normal?
I’m confused how Elegoo is able to solve this with a firmware update, which surely slaps a fixed value to these variables, which as you state, is different from machine to machine…
They also messed around with the settings for stealthchop, which can play into it as well. If the numbers they provide fixes 90% of machines, the remaining 10 will email them for different values to try. The numbers I mentioned in my first video were roughly the values they used, but it caused erratic behavior on some machines and resolved issues on others. Belt tension, wheel tension, etc can introduce a variable into what numbers will work
This neptune 4 max has been absolutely infuriating at this point. I . regretting this machine already and i have only had 3 days.. it just doesnt work. I might return this and go back to the 3 max.
I've been telling a lot of people to look into the 3 plus and max because it's currently priced pretty well and can be set up with a more robust klipper setup for only a few bucks
Technically you could. The board has inputs for them, you would have to install the switches and run the wires. Disabling sensorless homing is just a matter of changing a couple of lines in printer.cfg
@@bignrich0900 the videos explain everything. If you want to revert back, simply change the sgthrs and homing speed values back to what they were or watch the full video and follow the steps to tune it in. At the point you're at right now, just make the sgthrs values 50 and it should work again, but if you watch the videos, you'll see the correlation and understand it better 🐱🐱
I've done more than a half dozen different videos on setting up Klipper and I did an initial video on how to get started on fixing this issue, but this one was more in depth on rectifying the issue at hand. If you went through the basic steps per the elegoo documentation, all you have to do is follow along step by step to fix the homing issue. I honestly don't know how much clearer I could have made it.
Imo this video is very clear. I'm not a nerd and not familiar with fluidd (I'm new to 3D printing) and this video is super in-depht and clear. + English isn't even my first language and I understood it.
A few notes for anyone watching:
My Neptune 4 Max is currently set to
driver_SGTHRS:110
homing_speed:50
Works great with zero grinding
See?! 🙄😆
@darthnihilus7511 the setting are different on each printer, this isn't just a plug and play solution. Please watch the videos and understand how to tune this correctly
I had to do different numbers on X and Y
My Neptune 4 Max is currently set to
(X)driver_SGTHRS:75
(X)homing_speed:50
(Y)driver_SGTHRS:45
(Y)homing_speed:80
brilliant, thanks to people like yourself we can get on and print instead of putting up with second best, great tutorial
I played with this last night on my N4M. My final numbers were 75 for X, 40 for Y, Homing speed 50. So far so good.
I mentioned your video in my TikTok today and provided links to it. Thanks for the info!
Glad it worked out 🥰🥰
@@TheFeralEngineer hey mate, so mine N4M was way too sensitive for Y. Not your fault but this video threw me for a bit since my printer kept crashing at the front since it was moving 4 10mm back and saying it was homed. the Driver_sgthrs was 110 out of box and i had changed it to 40. now it works perfectly. :)
OMG THANK YOU. i thought i was going crazy. my printer was crashing at the front because the 110 for Y was making my Y only move back 10mm before it said it was homed. apparently my printer was too sensitive.
Thank you sir! My only complaint about the plus so far has been the homing. A small speed adjustment and the y-axis lightly touches the back, no more piledriver on my desk! You have been an amazing resource for my Neptune series of printers.
Great video and honestly led me down a testing rabbit hole, but saved me from tossing the printer on eBay. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
One caveat about belt tightening as an issues, over tightening can create issues with print quality, so you may need to adjust your settings a bit once your belts are perfect to ensure you don’t have false positives on your “virtual switches”
Thank you! It seems your tip fixed the BRRRRRRRRR issue :-) (110 and 50 :-) )
Thank you thank you thank you!
By the way. Although this advice did not solve my problem it did provide a lot of good advice. My problem turned out to be a hardware issue. My power went out which interrupted the print. That caused a jerk which caught my print head on the model. The actual part of the print head that got caught was the sensor. It got knocked to one side. This can be caused by vibration over time but the screw that holds the sensor in place can become loose enough for this to occur. So, my advice is add a check for your regular maintenance list.
Thanks so much for the followup!
I had a few more minutes to go into more detail, rather than just telling people where to look for the stuff. Business trips are the devil sometimes 😂😂
The past 2 months my Neptune A10 Warthog 4 Max was going behind the build plate and shoving the nozzle below the bed then grinding it across the side of the bed...I lowered my sensitivity on one and increased it on the other and so far this seems to have helped me with my issue. They were originally 110 for each at 50 speed. I kept the speed the same however.
Really appreciate you making this video. You are saving Elegoo customers... Elegoo should sponsor you or something.
They don't appreciate the value I bring to the brand. Gotta up my sub numbers, I guess. 😆
@@TheFeralEngineer you got one more from me ;) Thank you for posting this!
Thanks for this video! It helped me with my Neptune 4 Max.
Great Video!
You just saved me a whole lot of headache with this explanation.
I started with a problem and while fixing it I ended up with 3 problems.
This solves two of them but I’m still trying to figure out the first one still.
Maybe you can help on that one as well.
What happened is that klipper allowed me to move Z up too much (maybe wrong config), and Z got to the top and kept trying to go up, so that messed up Z. Now I can’t make Z0 be zero…
It’s like -40 for me now
Turn the machine off completely, manually turn the Z axis screws so that the nozzle is within 20mm of the bed, power on and home
I’m installing linear rails. I’m guessing I should start with a low homing speed and higher sensitivity?
Lower speed, lower sensitivity. Seems that higher sensitivity at lower speed causes false homes
Elegoo has an update for the printer and tft now and it also fixes this issue. They tweeked the settings SGTHRS to 110 on X and Y and homing speed to 50 (and a few other changes). This fixed my BRRRRT but I am still having an issue of Y shifting on larger prints. I printed the benchy just fine, but my large prints are failing. It seems very random, one print failed after an hour, one failed after 22 hours(ugh) and everything in between. It is a new product and they still have some work to do. I've been providing feedback to Elegoo so I'm sure they will get it fixed, but it is frustrating.
Has this been released yet? I can't find it on the Discord or their website at this moment.
It was more of a quick solution for those that don't have the firmware patch, can't find it or are reluctant to try it 😀
@@TheFeralEngineer Oh yeah, I know that's what you've done here (thank you by the way). I was just trying to get more info from @treecah about where the firmware update might be found 🤓
@@ProdigalMonkey yeah, i was replying to him, but UA-cam sucks sometimes 😅😅
To my knowledge this is not released as I was working directly with tech support. I think they may want to do more testing as once it is released everyone will want to do the update. Generally, it's best that the rule "if it's not broke don't fix it applies". I'm not sure they didn't base at least part of their fix off of TheFeralEngineer's channels findings. I will ask them directly if the link can be shared.
How do you restore the original settings from Orca? I tried tweaking this, and it just rammed it just kept pushing into my bed and I had to re-tighten all the eccentric screws. I didn't write down the original numbers, so is there a restore button in orca slicer that I don't see?
There is not. Just keep adjusting until it's right. Slow down homing speed and adjust sgthrs until it works properly.
You can also look through your klippy. Log and see older versions of printer.cfg being parsed inside of there
Cheers mate..I ended up doing a factory reset and adjusted only the homing speed on my X and Z axis and it has eliminated that metal thud. Literally moved from an ender 3 pro to this beast and after using marlin and going to this, I'm definitely wading in deep water so it's good that there are creators like you that allow me to learn 👍👍👍
Any suggestions on how to fine tune a N4M after installing linear rails? My X and Y are completely off now
@@biggsean302 out of square? I used alignment jigs when I put rails on my 3
@@TheFeralEngineer The X and Y offsets are off.
@@seanwhite4586 I don't understand the correlation unless they aren't running smoothly and triggering a false home
Hey man! Great video. Im trying to troubleshoot my 4 Plus, but i cant get the grinding in the y axis to stop. My best settings are at 110 and 50 for homing speed. Tweaking the settings has resulted in some markedly terrifying failures with me needing to shut the thing down through Fluidd. Im really at a loss for how to get that to stop. Any additional advice?
Check belt tension. They need to be fairly tight, but not guitar string tight. After that, it's just trial and error. That's why I say to keep you finger on the trigger, though... Crazy sht can happen 😅. Are you in their latest firmware?
@@TheFeralEngineer Yep! I just updated it today. I actually just did a full teardown of my carriage and a full reassembly as well, so my belt tension SHOULD be tight.
Hey, i hope you see this comment. I recently updated the firmware of my N4 Pro, since then there has been a noise coming from the printer (there were no similar noises before). I'd say it's an "energy" sound, like those you hear coming from high voltage cables. Is this normal? My reasoning is that the updated firmware draws more energy as it needs it to achieve 500mm/s but i don't really know since i'm a complete noob.
Can you take a little video and email it to me so I can hear what you mean?
Firmware changes don't usually equate to sounding like high power lines. Only thing I can think is the new printer.cfg has stealthchop turned off.
@@TheFeralEngineer sure, may I get your address?
@@Raiden-pi3gt should be in my channel info, but it's theferalengineer@gmail.com
Hmmm...I might be wrong but my understanding is that the reason why (at least for neptune4) the "BrrrrrrRrrrr" drilling happens is because the sensor only works for steel material. When the drilling happened I quickly put on the PEI plate and the sensor did what it was supposed to do. Just my thought. Thanks for this video tho!
You are wrong, actually. The issue I'm talking about is X and Y axis sensorless homing. What you're talking about is the Z axis crashing when it can't sense metal
@@TheFeralEngineer yeah I was only talking about the Z drilling. I came to this video from your part 1 and I did learn something new. I will definitely input the code. Quick Q. Do you know how I can turn off the pressure and smooth completely in fluidd? I have to turn them off every time manually.
@@SlippingFlipping you can set default values in printer.cfg
Thanks, you have successfully convinced me not to buy Elegoo Neptune 4 Plus. Now I am looking for another option.
Don't look at the sovol sv07 plus... They have a bunch of issues as well
Probably better to wait for the neptune 5 plus then :)
Thank you. Just done it with my N4M
Hi Feral, I love your useful setup for the NEPTUNE 4 max. I am wondering if you are able to help me with my current issue with mine?
Everything is fine, but today when I clicked home for Z. The Z axis kept pushing into the bed, as if the motors want to keep turning. I haven't messed with anything on the printer physically seeing it's brand new. I posted my problem on Reddit in hopes someone had a similar issue and was able to resolve it. SO now here I am asking if you are able to help me?
Test your sensor with QUERY_PROBE and make sure it can sense the metal surface you can command it through klipper console in fluidd.
If that doesn't work, check the connections. On some of the 3 machines, the wires got pinched during assembly
Question - maybe I’m overthinking this, but if this setting could vary from printer to printer bc of different factors like belt tension, how could a firmware update fix this?
The changes in cfg will more than likely resolve the homing issue 99.9997% of the time, but the actual system update attempts to rectify other issues as well, like some machines experiencing z offset errors, WiFi connectivity issues and mcu shutdown issues. It just happens that the Linux image they send out has a more fine tuned printer.cfg with their newly found, happy settings.
I'm hoping they push some of their fixes to mainline mks pi firmware because I've got two bricks that suffer from chronic mcu shutdowns waiting for more a robust Linux distro. I've had such poor experiences with the rockchip rk3328 as a whole that when i found out elegoo and sovol were both using them in their Klipper products, I kinda winced a little... ok, a lottle...
When homing, i have the z axis climb, pause, and climb, then freeze with a wirring noise. Is there settings in the advanced setting menu that can help this?I do not have the software you are using. Neptune 3 plus.
Thanks, James
Could be a probe malfunction or something binding. Check the connections and the z travel by hand
@TheFeralEngineer i have checked it. Funny thing is, it has homed fine, printed great, then it wont home the following day to print. I basically move the hot end around with the arrows on the keypad...then it homes, sometimes. Strange
@@BatmanIII sounds like you might have an intermittent short in the probe. When they assemble the extruder head, sometimes the wires get pinched and severed inside of the insulation. Email elegoo and they'll probably send you a new one: 3dp@elegoo.com
@@TheFeralEngineer ahhh....yes, i will check tonight and let you know. Thanks!
Checked the wiring and connection. "Looks" fine. Must be the pcb or the wiring connectors arent making the connection maybe. I hit up elegoo support, awaiting response
OMG I HAD THE STOPPERS STILL UNDER THE TRAY
I went factory settings and everything works fine now... Messing with the sensor settings did not help solve my issue.
Win some, lose some 🤷
Im trying to get my 4 max working and i cant get the sensitivity tuned in no matter what. I can home one time and get a false home reading, and then hot home again without changing anything and the axis will overtravel and start grinding. What am i doing wrong,
Check your belt tension
@TheFeralEngineer I got the firmware update, and that fixed the problem. It homes fine now, but when I run auto level, it gets stuck at the z-height adjustment because the screen seems to freeze.
Yeah, they've been having issues with the firmware patch. Unfortunately, I don't have a quick fix for that
@TheFeralEngineer turns out I forgot the screen patch. Did that, but had to go run some errands. Fingers crossed it works when I get home
New printer here.
My default homing speed is 50 and my driver_sgthrs is 110. I get a very slight "krr" from the bed only.
It's probably okay then. Leave it until you have to change it and check belt tension before anything🙂. Happy printing 🐱🐱
@@TheFeralEngineer Thanks for your input. I'd ask how to make sure the belts are tensioned correctly?
And I do have some audible sqeaking/vibrations when the printer head is moving fast. Is that normal?
I’m confused how Elegoo is able to solve this with a firmware update, which surely slaps a fixed value to these variables, which as you state, is different from machine to machine…
They also messed around with the settings for stealthchop, which can play into it as well. If the numbers they provide fixes 90% of machines, the remaining 10 will email them for different values to try. The numbers I mentioned in my first video were roughly the values they used, but it caused erratic behavior on some machines and resolved issues on others. Belt tension, wheel tension, etc can introduce a variable into what numbers will work
This neptune 4 max has been absolutely infuriating at this point. I . regretting this machine already and i have only had 3 days.. it just doesnt work. I might return this and go back to the 3 max.
I've been telling a lot of people to look into the 3 plus and max because it's currently priced pretty well and can be set up with a more robust klipper setup for only a few bucks
Can't people just add limit switches?
Technically you could. The board has inputs for them, you would have to install the switches and run the wires. Disabling sensorless homing is just a matter of changing a couple of lines in printer.cfg
Good!
i did what you said and now my hotend is crashing into my bed when it auto homes
Did you watch both videos and test each axis individually or did you just put values and expect it to work?
ohh i didnt know about the second one until after how do i get it to stop homing in the back and revert to default
@@TheFeralEngineer
@@bignrich0900 the videos explain everything. If you want to revert back, simply change the sgthrs and homing speed values back to what they were or watch the full video and follow the steps to tune it in. At the point you're at right now, just make the sgthrs values 50 and it should work again, but if you watch the videos, you'll see the correlation and understand it better 🐱🐱
@@TheFeralEngineer thank you so much
you saved me thank you man
as long as you watched the whole video. if not, you'll be cursing me 😂😂
Would have been nice if you could have explained this in English not everybody's a nerd and super familiar with these programs and printers
I've done more than a half dozen different videos on setting up Klipper and I did an initial video on how to get started on fixing this issue, but this one was more in depth on rectifying the issue at hand. If you went through the basic steps per the elegoo documentation, all you have to do is follow along step by step to fix the homing issue. I honestly don't know how much clearer I could have made it.
Imo this video is very clear. I'm not a nerd and not familiar with fluidd (I'm new to 3D printing) and this video is super in-depht and clear. + English isn't even my first language and I understood it.