Now thats slicker than a whistle. Thats the first one I see that works. I can hear the grind comming into a perfect form..Thanks Keith now I want one sam
The joy of using a truly sharp correctly ground drill bit is hard to beat, and hard to do freehand so some easy holes in the future with all those nice sharp bits. Thanks for sharing Keith.
***** Contact me if you want to get going on a dust collection setup... I've been doing them for steel mills for many moons now, and can steer you towards some good references and sources for doing woodshop stuff - metalworking machines are a bit more complex, and have folks like me reaching for the ACGIH Industrial Ventilation bible... The good news is that for most shops, it's the grinding and foundry work stuff that really generates the nasty stuff.. Most of us don't work with beryllium or magnesium after all. Big woodworking machines - as in commercial / industrial sizes - require some thought as well, as you won't be able to just buy some parts from Rockler, etc., and have it sized to fit. Woodworkers can have allergic reactions to common woods, and can be poisoned - usually resulting in lost lung function - by some of the tropical hardwoods and the like which get used for their fine grains and colors. You don't want to mix metal dust with sawdust... The other thing is that if you opt for the paper mask route, be sure to clean up with a properly grounded vacuum cleaner - not just a regular shop type vac - before you un-mask. Be sure that the vac has a HEPA filter, and be sure to be masked up when you dispose of the dust and used filter into a good plastic bag, which you will seal up to contain the mess. There are some other things to consider, and not all jurisdictions let you toss metal dust into the regular trash - although steel and grindstone dusts should be OK in most places. It's pretty straightforward, but the devil's in the details... All the Best, Eric
Heaven is a PROPERLY sharpened drill bit. What a great investment and so easy to work. When I was an engineering teacher we were issued with an attachment for the bench grinder but no one, including the people who issued it, could tell me how to attach it to the grinder.
This video was just want I needed !! I just scored a Farrel Sellers 1GA, and had no clue on how to use it. Thanks for posting this !! I will have to post a video on mine when i get it running.
Hi Keith, Nice to get your hands on a machine AND the attachments, recently got my hands on a Clarkson Mark 2, nice machines, that it can sharpen end mills, drill bits and what ever you want to sharpen. On the down side I'll need to find some missing attachments or make some. Just by looking at your set up, I think about fabricating a drill bit attachment on the same principle than yours. Thanks for sharing, Pierre
I love it, it's so simple compared to some out there. If you wanted to make a little drawing of the mechanism, I would be very interested. The relationships of how the arm hinge works, the offsets and such. I have to make one of those.
Keith, I noticed that the clamp which held the drill bit, was not of the type which self centred. By that I mean that it clamped the drill bit against a fixed anvil, so with the bottom end of the bit centred in a conical pocket, the angle that different diameter drill bits were presented to the grinding wheel would change with these different diameters. As I see it, there would be a drill diameter where the drill bit was parallel with the axis of the support rod, but smaller drill diameters would point in toward the support rod at the business end, while larger diameters would end up pointing away from the support rod at the cutting end. Short drills would exacerbate this effect, and reduced shank drills would cause problems unless there is some compensation mechanism to allow for this. As Andy says, it will pay for itself with your extensive collection of drill bits, I might even send mine over for a touch up;-) Rob.
***** Thanks for the reply Keith, and OK on my mistake, but as you say your video appears to show a simple clamping action rather than the self centering action that you describe. That is a beaut machine, and I should have thanked you earlier for sharing the details with us, and also for all the other great videos you prepare for our pleasure and benefit. All the best, Rob.
I'm old school, been grinding mine by hand for 46 years. Takes some practice but worth it. For my larger drills I do them on a surface grinder with a 5C collet in a square block. Then just back off for clearance by hand again.
Excellent video. There are many way's to sharpen a drill bit but this is one example I really like. Having the ability to control degree's and depth is what I like the most. Nice job. Thanks
Your going to love having that drill grinder Keith. It's similar to my little Lisle. For precision grinding the small drill and up to the bigger taper shank, you can't beat it. Yours looks very nice and user friendly. Good purchase. Adam
Cool Keith. When I was at that auction (where I got your bits) they had a Yankee grinder I picked up for $30. It's a lot bigger than yours but seems cruder. It just has a taper center point for morse taper and the index that holds the flute has been butchered. Yours seems very precise. I need to get it cleaned up and see what's what.
One of the best drill grinders I have ever seen Keith. Is it al all possible to have a few detailed photos of it please, looking to make something similar, thanks Ian
Was wondering how the bit would front level on both sides. Close up really helped show the flute catching stop. Nice, only see 1 problem, now everyone you know is going 2 be dropping off bits.
Hi Keith....nice machine. I recently purchased a drill grinder that works almost identical, not nearly as robust, but still does a great job. One thing I did notice, is the amount of times that you rotated the bit in order to eventually work to an even grind. Mine has a built in stop that you set when you finish the first flute...you turn the bit to the other flute, go to the stop, and it is exactly in the center. Mine has a knob rather that a handwheel, but "setting zero" at the depth of the first flute, should do the same thing...do one flute, flip and do the other, and your done. Jim
Great video as always Keith. Can you go into a little more detail as to how the fixture that holds the bits works in relation to holding the correct angle? It appears as though the bit holder has an angle guide that you can use to gauge the grind. Thanks..
Thanks Keith, I really enjoyed this video. I believe there was an episode where Wylie Coyote used one of these to sharpen his claws? I'm not sure if it was the same brand.
That is a great addition to the shop! Too bad hardware stores don't have one of these, instead of always trying to sell more cheap imported bits. It's crazy how much they charge for a 3/8 or 1/2", by the time one adds those two plus one other size together, it has paid for a whole new set in a shiny case.
Keith, That is just such a great tool, it would make my life very easy if I had one of those, I find that sharpening drill bits can be quite time consuming, but I am now leaning towards making up a tool similar to that one you were using which would work well, the aftermarket drill sharpeners on sale here are not that good in terms of quality, unless you spend some serious money to get one in from overseas. Enjoyed your video, I see you have a lot of drill bits out there on the table, could be a good afternoon's work there..... regards John MD
yeah, it does. You'll love them. Yes, the sharper and more accurate your grinding is, the better it will hold diameter, position, and runout tolerance with the added benefit of using up less of the machines available horsepower. Dull drill bits eat up horsepower, especially the bigger ones. You bet we tested drill bits.. message me and I will give you some basic results. we tried all the major brands.
I bought a 1G1 drill grinder along time ago and just finally am getting it out to use it.... I do need fixtures I can sharpen up to a 1" straight shank down to a 1/4 " . I need a wheel dressing attachment and a center for taper shank .... If you know where I can find these please let me know ....
Fantastic!! I have never been able to "properly" grind/sharpen a drill bit. My father was a master at it -- try as he might, I never caught on. I get close... sometimes. (ha). I have a small electric drill sharpener -- with dubious results ("Drill Dr"?) I really enjoy your videos, Keith. I'm waiting to see the Vance planer running (having worked for Jeld-Wen).
Seems like when you raised the drill above horizontal, wouldn't you put a reversed cutting angle on it? I would have liked to see a demo of how the bit worked before & after sharpening.
That is a simple drill grinder,plus you got it a a fair price. I have the SRD type that works good, in fact I probably have more in my sharpener than you have in that fine machine.
That's a very clever solution. My only concern is that the back centre will only be at the correct distance from the rotating axis for one diameter of drill unless the front moveable jaws that grip the flutes of the drill move together in a self centring manner which it appears they do not.
KEITH, use the top slide to advance the amount of cut, then rotate bit and do other side by advancing to the same spot, easier and lest moving bit around..
Nice work Kieth. Having a drill grinder saves a lot of time & aggravation, how did you come across this one? Craigslist, Internet forum, word of mouth etc.? Thanks for sharing.
Hi Keith, How were you determining the drill stick-out to get the chisel point at the right angle? I have a Picador drill grinding attachment and that's one place where the instructions fall down. I had to work out my own technique.
Keith, any insights about the cabinet/ stand the grinder sits on? There is a seemingly identical one which I use to set my tool chest. Previously thought it was homemade by someone, but apparently not after seeing yours.
+Simon P I am not sure if that cabinet is original to this machine or just something that a previous owner mounted it on. Regardless, I am nearly certain that it is not home made.
I know you did a second video where you showed the jaws better, but it's buried in non-descriptive titles. Does anyone know which is the second video on this grinder ?
***** Hi Keith, Thanks for your reply. I am thinking of making a similar design of drill sharpener to use on the face of a standard 8" bench grinder. I intend to grind drill diameters between 1/2" and 1 1/2". Can you measure the angle between the pivot axis and the centre of the rod which supports the drills. On screen it appears to be approximately 30 degrees. Thanks again. Ronnie (viewing from Scotland)
I was unsure. I'd like to see which is the better method. It just seemed like it wasn't cutting evenly. However, that may be what is required. I'm sure the machine gets em' sharp regardless. Jigs take out the guess work.
A drill sharpening procedure takes less than a minute with two minutes maximum if make an additional sharpening cut in the flute channel to make the drill sharp as a razor.So no professional could use complicated and time consuming fancy jigs and attachments for such a simple task.
+19winston51 There is a company out near Las Vegas that has the rights to these Sellers drill grinders and I think they are still selling them. New ones are really expensive but used ones turn up from time to time.
You are taking multiple shallow passes (side 1/2/1/2, etc). Could you, if you had more practice, do the sharpening in a single pass? I suppose it depends on how dull the drill bit is.
Keith I have inherited a Sellers 1G from my grandfather and I need a new wheel for it. Please help if you have any information. Norton wants a large amount of money to make these for me. Thank you sir.
Think I have the 'Reply' settings fixed ... Anyway ... You could hold a party with that Sellers Drill Grinder and let everyone bring their box of dull drill bits, cause ya know we all have one :-)
Keith, any plans for a dust evacuation system? Wouldn't take much in the way of CFM to remove any dust generated and safeguard your lungs. So happy to see older machines still in productive use. They don't make them like that anymore!
Hello Keith , really enjoy your videos , have you ever heard of a Mohawk drill sharpener ? I looked on VintageMachinery.org . , couldn't find anything on it . Looked all over the net , nothing . Made in Montpelier , Ohio . It's a 3 ph machine really stoutly built , model 302 . I would really like to get a manual for it . Any info on it i'd appreciate . Keep up the good work on the videos
Nice grinder but the jigs are too fiddly. I prefer Kaindl BSG 20 type jigs because they don't require reclamping when rotating the bit also one clamp fits all drills.
As per the instructions for this machine on your web site, diagram 1G-17 shows the grind angle from 0 degrees to 50 degrees above horizontal. This duplicates the common hand sharpening technique and is why I was questioning some of your raising the back of the drill above horizontal. vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2230/4994.pdf
if all you payed for that was 200 you stole it bad thing is you no longer have a excuse for over size holes roflao good vid you do know that was a apprentice job way back when right after the broom
Only thing your doing wrong.your grind heel to cutting edge on your first stroke. This a tendency to burn edge . You should go cutting edge to heal on the first stroke. Look at an Oliver pointer . It grinds against the cutting edge. I'm tool & cutter grinder by trade. I'm working my. 52nd year in business. I own a Black Diamond pointer and l think it's a little faster than yours.
Now thats slicker than a whistle. Thats the first one I see that works. I can hear the
grind comming into a perfect form..Thanks Keith now I want one
sam
The joy of using a truly sharp correctly ground drill bit is hard to beat, and hard to do freehand so some easy holes in the future with all those nice sharp bits. Thanks for sharing Keith.
***** Contact me if you want to get going on a dust collection setup... I've been doing them for steel mills for many moons now, and can steer you towards some good references and sources for doing woodshop stuff - metalworking machines are a bit more complex, and have folks like me reaching for the ACGIH Industrial Ventilation bible... The good news is that for most shops, it's the grinding and foundry work stuff that really generates the nasty stuff.. Most of us don't work with beryllium or magnesium after all.
Big woodworking machines - as in commercial / industrial sizes - require some thought as well, as you won't be able to just buy some parts from Rockler, etc., and have it sized to fit.
Woodworkers can have allergic reactions to common woods, and can be poisoned - usually resulting in lost lung function - by some of the tropical hardwoods and the like which get used for their fine grains and colors.
You don't want to mix metal dust with sawdust...
The other thing is that if you opt for the paper mask route, be sure to clean up with a properly grounded vacuum cleaner - not just a regular shop type vac - before you un-mask. Be sure that the vac has a HEPA filter, and be sure to be masked up when you dispose of the dust and used filter into a good plastic bag, which you will seal up to contain the mess.
There are some other things to consider, and not all jurisdictions let you toss metal dust into the regular trash - although steel and grindstone dusts should be OK in most places.
It's pretty straightforward, but the devil's in the details...
All the Best,
Eric
Keith,
Pretty handy little machine. You'll have the sharpest drill bits in town! Thanks for sharing the video!
Have a good one!
Dave
Heaven is a PROPERLY sharpened drill bit. What a great investment and so easy to work. When I was an engineering teacher we were issued with an attachment for the bench grinder but no one, including the people who issued it, could tell me how to attach it to the grinder.
Nice tool you have there. I will have to be on the lookout for one like that. Thanks for sharing.
This video was just want I needed !! I just scored a Farrel Sellers 1GA, and had no clue on how to use it. Thanks for posting this !! I will have to post a video on mine when i get it running.
Keith I have this tool but not complete a lot of years. Just now I know what is missing and how to use it. Thanks Roman
Hey Keith,
Very nice machine. Thanks for sharing it. What is the smallest drill you have done on it?
All the best,
Tom
Единственная приличная приспособа, до конца продуманная, позволяющая затачивать всю номенклатуру свёрл. Thanks
Hi Keith,
Nice to get your hands on a machine AND the attachments, recently got my hands on a Clarkson Mark 2, nice machines, that it can sharpen end mills, drill bits and what ever you want to sharpen. On the down side I'll need to find some missing attachments or make some.
Just by looking at your set up, I think about fabricating a drill bit attachment on the same principle than yours.
Thanks for sharing,
Pierre
I love it, it's so simple compared to some out there.
If you wanted to make a little drawing of the mechanism, I would be very interested.
The relationships of how the arm hinge works, the offsets and such.
I have to make one of those.
Thanks I went and found those, but some measurements of that angled part re angle and offsets would help.
*****
Keith
What type / size / grit / bond type and all that stuff wheels does that use ?
what an awesome piece of history and it STILL works better then the crap they sell nowadays, all plastic and throw away...
Seeya
Dude
Keith, I noticed that the clamp which held the drill bit, was not of the type which self centred. By that I mean that it clamped the drill bit against a fixed anvil, so with the bottom end of the bit centred in a conical pocket, the angle that different diameter drill bits were presented to the grinding wheel would change with these different diameters. As I see it, there would be a drill diameter where the drill bit was parallel with the axis of the support rod, but smaller drill diameters would point in toward the support rod at the business end, while larger diameters would end up pointing away from the support rod at the cutting end. Short drills would exacerbate this effect, and reduced shank drills would cause problems unless there is some compensation mechanism to allow for this.
As Andy says, it will pay for itself with your extensive collection of drill bits, I might even send mine over for a touch up;-)
Rob.
*****
Thanks for the reply Keith, and OK on my mistake, but as you say your video appears to show a simple clamping action rather than the self centering action that you describe. That is a beaut machine, and I should have thanked you earlier for sharing the details with us, and also for all the other great videos you prepare for our pleasure and benefit. All the best,
Rob.
I'm old school, been grinding mine by hand for 46 years. Takes some practice but worth it. For my larger drills I do them on a surface grinder with a 5C collet in a square block. Then just back off for clearance by hand again.
That is sweet Keith .. From 1 inch to # 70 is a huge range .. It will come in very handy I am sure !!
Excellent video. There are many way's to sharpen a drill bit but this is one example I really like. Having the ability to control degree's and depth is what I like the most. Nice job. Thanks
Gorgeous old machine, would love this in our workshop.
Your going to love having that drill grinder Keith. It's similar to my little Lisle. For precision grinding the small drill and up to the bigger taper shank, you can't beat it. Yours looks very nice and user friendly. Good purchase.
Adam
The grinder that I was referring to is a Lisle...it actually says the capacity is up to 1-1/2", but have never tried one that big.
Cool Keith. When I was at that auction (where I got your bits) they had a Yankee grinder I picked up for $30. It's a lot bigger than yours but seems cruder. It just has a taper center point for morse taper and the index that holds the flute has been butchered. Yours seems very precise. I need to get it cleaned up and see what's what.
One of the best drill grinders I have ever seen Keith. Is it al all possible to have a few detailed photos of it please, looking to make something similar, thanks Ian
That thing makes quick work of grinding those bits. Now I want one.....
Was wondering how the bit would front level on both sides. Close up really helped show the flute catching stop. Nice, only see 1 problem, now everyone you know is going 2 be dropping off bits.
shade38211 y6
Hi Keith....nice machine. I recently purchased a drill grinder that works almost identical, not nearly as robust, but still does a great job. One thing I did notice, is the amount of times that you rotated the bit in order to eventually work to an even grind. Mine has a built in stop that you set when you finish the first flute...you turn the bit to the other flute, go to the stop, and it is exactly in the center. Mine has a knob rather that a handwheel, but "setting zero" at the depth of the first flute, should do the same thing...do one flute, flip and do the other, and your done. Jim
Always enjoy watching your videos!
+policev840 Thank you!
Great video as always Keith. Can you go into a little more detail as to how the fixture that holds the bits works in relation to holding the correct angle? It appears as though the bit holder has an angle guide that you can use to gauge the grind.
Thanks..
Could use one of these at my workplace, some of the guys have achieved some very amusing drill sharpening results, amusing but occasionally expensive
Thanks Keith, I really enjoyed this video. I believe there was an episode where Wylie Coyote used one of these to sharpen his claws? I'm not sure if it was the same brand.
It's a nice smooth running motor - US made. A very nice little machine.
Have you seen the Oliver drill grinders? They must cost an arm & a leg.
Seems like your grinder has been traveling almost as much as you! Love old American machines that were built to last.
I like it! I want one! Typically I see drills so butchered by ill fated sharpening attempts that you almost need a machine to straighten them out.
That is a great addition to the shop! Too bad hardware stores don't have one of these, instead of always trying to sell more cheap imported bits. It's crazy how much they charge for a 3/8 or 1/2", by the time one adds those two plus one other size together, it has paid for a whole new set in a shiny case.
Keith,
That is just such a great tool, it would make my life very easy if I had one of those, I find that sharpening drill bits can be quite time consuming, but I am now leaning towards making up a tool similar to that one you were using which would work well, the aftermarket drill sharpeners on sale here are not that good in terms of quality, unless you spend some serious money to get one in from overseas.
Enjoyed your video, I see you have a lot of drill bits out there on the table, could be a good afternoon's work there.....
regards
John MD
It's wonderful thing to be able to use freshly sharpened drills. Also uses up less machine HP and produces more accurate holes
yeah, it does. You'll love them. Yes, the sharper and more accurate your grinding is, the better it will hold diameter, position, and runout tolerance with the added benefit of using up less of the machines available horsepower. Dull drill bits eat up horsepower, especially the bigger ones. You bet we tested drill bits.. message me and I will give you some basic results. we tried all the major brands.
Sellers makes the best drill sharpeners in my opinion. We have a 4G at work and that think is amazing
I bought a 1G1 drill grinder along time ago and just finally am getting it out to use it.... I do need fixtures I can sharpen up to a 1" straight shank down to a 1/4 " . I need a wheel dressing attachment and a center for taper shank .... If you know where I can find these please let me know ....
Fantastic!! I have never been able to "properly" grind/sharpen a drill bit. My father was a master at it -- try as he might, I never caught on. I get close... sometimes. (ha). I have a small electric drill sharpener -- with dubious results ("Drill Dr"?) I really enjoy your videos, Keith. I'm waiting to see the Vance planer running (having worked for Jeld-Wen).
Good luck with your new sharpener -
Seems like when you raised the drill above horizontal, wouldn't you put a reversed cutting angle on it?
I would have liked to see a demo of how the bit worked before & after sharpening.
On larger bits I can see a value, but his seems to be very labor intensive. Can you do a 4 facet grind using this machine?
That is a simple drill grinder,plus you got it a a fair price. I have the SRD type that works good, in fact I probably have more in my sharpener than you have in that fine machine.
That's a very clever solution. My only concern is that the back centre will only be at the correct distance from the rotating axis for one diameter of drill unless the front moveable jaws that grip the flutes of the drill move together in a self centring manner which it appears they do not.
Such a cool machine. Thanks for sharing!
Good video and very nice machine, thanks for showing!
KEITH, use the top slide to advance the amount of cut, then rotate bit and do other side by advancing to the same spot, easier and lest moving bit around..
très bien comme d'habitude !!! mais dommage que vous n'ayez pas mis les sous titres pour que je puisse traduire !!! merci
Nice work Kieth. Having a drill grinder saves a lot of time & aggravation, how did you come across this one? Craigslist, Internet forum, word of mouth etc.?
Thanks for sharing.
Excelente,Sr.Keith,me agradaría saber las medidas de su afiladora de brocas,saludos desde Perú
Fantastic Keith!
Good find, bet them drills cut through steel like butter now, worth every penny, what about new stones? Can you still get them?
very nice, quite the time and money saver. need to get me one.
Hi Keith,
How were you determining the drill stick-out to get the chisel point at the right angle?
I have a Picador drill grinding attachment and that's one place where the instructions fall down. I had to work out my own technique.
Keith, any insights about the cabinet/ stand the grinder sits on? There is a seemingly identical one which I use to set my tool chest. Previously thought it was homemade by someone, but apparently not after seeing yours.
+Simon P I am not sure if that cabinet is original to this machine or just something that a previous owner mounted it on. Regardless, I am nearly certain that it is not home made.
What speed and hp is the motor? Thanks for the nice video, Keith! ;)
I know you did a second video where you showed the jaws better, but it's buried in non-descriptive titles. Does anyone know which is the second video on this grinder ?
12345NoNamesLeft Odds and Ends 5 at about 34:03: ua-cam.com/video/ScpGta1Tc-k/v-deo.htmlm3s
VERY GOOD AGAIN KEITH GOOD LUCK WITH THE DRILL GRINDER
LOUIS
Hi Keith,
Great video.
What is the biggest drill that can be sharpened on your machine ?
Ronnie
***** Hi Keith, Thanks for your reply. I am thinking of making a similar design of drill sharpener to use on the face of a standard 8" bench grinder. I intend to grind drill diameters between 1/2" and 1 1/2". Can you measure the angle between the pivot axis and the centre of the rod which supports the drills. On screen it appears to be approximately 30 degrees. Thanks again. Ronnie (viewing from Scotland)
Is the bouncing motion as effective as a slow and steady rocking motion?
I was unsure. I'd like to see which is the better method. It just seemed like it wasn't cutting evenly. However, that may be what is required. I'm sure the machine gets em' sharp regardless. Jigs take out the guess work.
when you lift the drill bit over half way aren't you actually rounding the cutting edge?
You're the sharpest guy in the machinest world!
....13
grins you find out how badly your drills are ground good video
A drill sharpening procedure takes less than a minute with two minutes maximum if make an additional sharpening cut in the flute channel to make the drill sharp as a razor.So no professional could use complicated and time consuming fancy jigs and attachments for such a simple task.
I wonder how all those mass produced twist bit are ground at the factory. I almost got a tour of Greenfield years ago.
the best drill bit sharpener i ever seen can you tell me where i can buy 1 like it ; thank you
+19winston51 There is a company out near Las Vegas that has the rights to these Sellers drill grinders and I think they are still selling them. New ones are really expensive but used ones turn up from time to time.
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org
do they have a web site that i can look up ; thank you
+19winston51 Farmington Manufacturing Company: www.farmingtonmfg.com/DRILL_GRINDERS.html
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org thank you so much
superb video
Very nice machine. Definitely worth the small investment to purchase.
Colin ;-)
I like your grinder,where do we have some of those.
Thank you Keith.
Nice one Keith!
You are taking multiple shallow passes (side 1/2/1/2, etc). Could you, if you had more practice, do the sharpening in a single pass? I suppose it depends on how dull the drill bit is.
Душевное приспособление!
Keith I have inherited a Sellers 1G from my grandfather and I need a new wheel for it. Please help if you have any information. Norton wants a large amount of money to make these for me.
Thank you sir.
You aren't the only one. Hopefully other Sellers owners will chime in and a group buy can be arranged.
Think I have the 'Reply' settings fixed ... Anyway ... You could hold a party with that Sellers Drill Grinder and let everyone bring their box of dull drill bits, cause ya know we all have one :-)
Keith, any plans for a dust evacuation system? Wouldn't take much in the way of CFM to remove any dust generated and safeguard your lungs. So happy to see older machines still in productive use. They don't make them like that anymore!
Thanks for sharing, worth the money
Great video thanks sir for that 👍👍👍👍👍👍👏👏🌹
Hello Keith , really enjoy your videos , have you ever heard of a Mohawk drill sharpener ? I looked on VintageMachinery.org . , couldn't find anything on it . Looked all over the net , nothing . Made in Montpelier , Ohio . It's a 3 ph machine really stoutly built , model 302 . I would really like to get a manual for it . Any info on it i'd appreciate . Keep up the good work on the videos
nice grinder hope one day i will stop sharpening by hand.....
Nice grinder but the jigs are too fiddly. I prefer Kaindl BSG 20 type jigs because they don't require reclamping when rotating the bit also one clamp fits all drills.
Hi mate.
That is a very nice machine. I hope you will give it a bit of a birthday. This machine is to nice to ignore.
Marcel.
As per the instructions for this machine on your web site, diagram 1G-17 shows the grind angle from 0 degrees to 50 degrees above horizontal. This duplicates the common hand sharpening technique and is why I was questioning some of your raising the back of the drill above horizontal. vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2230/4994.pdf
nice!!! I wish i had one.
nice
Smooth, you should get plenty of service out of it.... :o]
O,,,
will pay for itself
Best Video (Y)
if all you payed for that was 200 you stole it
bad thing is you no longer have a excuse for over
size holes roflao good vid you do know that was
a apprentice job way back when right after the broom
Heavy dressing!
Sharp
SUPER VIDEO! Like,Like,Like!!!!!
Thanks!
That's a great machine! Mind if I send you about 50 pounds of dull bits to grind for me? ;-)
*****
That would be nice, but I was joking. I know you have many projects to work on. Speaking of which, have you done any more work on the safe?
Cool X 2
+bryan lawless Thanks!
Only thing your doing wrong.your grind heel to
cutting edge on your first
stroke. This a tendency to burn edge . You should go cutting edge
to heal on the first stroke. Look at an Oliver
pointer . It grinds against
the cutting edge. I'm tool
& cutter grinder by trade.
I'm working my. 52nd year in business. I own a
Black Diamond pointer and l think it's a little faster than yours.
yummy :-)
I have one of these for sale if anyone wants it cheap.
How do I contact you for more details? That is if you still have it available
@@jaycope6870 I sold it. Just get a drill doctor, works great.
You do not use this tool PROPERLY