THE best teaching on sharpening drill bits I have EVER seen. But then that should not surprise any one; when it comes to our "professor" extraordinaire! Yes "Mr Pete" be dah man! Gifted unprecedented. Just imagine how great it would be to have EVERY teacher in school be a Mr Pete. WOW! And I mean EVERY subject.
Mr. Pete, I thank you for your in depth 2 part instruction on this drill grinder ! I have that model 91000 too. I read, reread, then reread them again, the (so called) "Set up instructions" from the company, but your 2 videos, made sense on the proper set up. Have 10 drills, of various sizes to do tomorrow. Thanks for taking the time to FULLY explain it !
A replacement motor might be the reason the switch is on the backside of the motor. Great series. Gotta find me a drill grinder. A quite morning, a cup of coffee, and mrpete/tubalcain! Wonderful start to the day.
Thanks Mr. Pete for this great video! Many years ago I bought a Lisle 91000 Drill Bit Grinder at an auction of high school shop equipment. I really went there hoping to get a deal on a mill or lathe, but I missed those due to some underhanded baloney that went on before I got to the auction. I wasn't from the area so not much that I could do. Anyway I saw the Lisle 91000 sitting on a bench and it looked brand new or very close to it. Just as important was that all the parts seemed to be present right down to the magnetic end adjuster and wheel conditioning attachment. It even had the operators manual and a quick start manual! They allowed me to plug it in and spin up the motor and it sounded like it was brand new. Perfect in fact. I hadn't used one of these machines in a really long time and I never got very familiar with them, but the auction bug bit me and I joined in on the bidding. Before I knew it I was up to serious money for this grinder, but I figured what the heck as I knew they weren't making these anymore and hadn't for several years. I recalled that these grinders had a very good reputation back in the day while I contemplated continued bidding. I won the auction for the grinder and felt good for winning it, but bad for the money I spent. I hauled it home and messed around with it a little but just couldn't quite grasp how it was supposed to work. My drill bits that I ground didn't look quite the way I thought they should, or work very well, so I parked the grinder in a corner of my shop for many years due to some frustration. Recently I was moving some stuff around and had to relocate the Lisle grinder. I thought to myself, "why am I keeping this heavy beast when it serves no purpose?" In fact I was going to just give the darn thing away to a friend of mine, but he was hesitant to take it. Then I had second thoughts about just giving it away and I decided hook or by crook I was going to figure out how this thing worked. Your video on this grinder has helped me out a lot in that regard. At least now I have a basic understanding of how one sets up the drill bit for grinding. I really appreciate the help and information. Thanks again.. Rick H.
As always, very informative and entertaining. Watching the motion up close like this, for those of us without such a mechanical grinder, provides a better understanding of the hand motion required to satisfactorily hand grind drill bits.
As Rein Rapp from the 'Engineer's Black Book' commented in a previous video, you have made pretty much the definitive series on drill sharpening. Understanding the geometry of what is actually happening when engaging in this process can indeed be a challenge. I believe this series of videos goes a long way towards 'bursting the myth' of sharpening twist drills. Thank-you indeed sir. Kindest regards. Joe
Thank you so much,my machine is just like yours.But i got no manual or instructions,,had no clue how to use machine..thanks to your 2 part series ,,I now can't wait to hit the shop and fire this up so i can use my bits again.
What an absolutely fantastic series - I don't have a lilse grinder but I am sure as heck going to get one or some equivalent - Mr Pete you are a great teacher and an inspiration - I have recent acquired a whole machine shop full of morse taper drills of the later sizes up to I & 3 quarters and this has inspired me to go out and get one of these - thanks again sir.
GREAT SERIES Mr. Pete! I had one of these in the shop at Lord Film back in younger and dumber days. We did not have any instructions and I think I may have damaged it trying to figure it out. Of course, there was no UA-cam back then. As I recall, the replacement wheel was quite pricey. Yours seems to do a much better job then mine did, or perhaps it's your experience shining through! I did figure out the motion to sharpen pretty well by hand, good enough for maintenance on the production floor, but not for the higher precision expected in the machine shop. I concur with others, if you're going to attempt to refresh the edge of all of your drill stock, you replace those bearings!
Thank you Mr. Pete, Great series and learned a lot. Took a lot of the black art and the 3 P's (practice practice practice) out of bit grinding. Be great to have one of those Lisle grinders and will keep an eye out for one to restore at a good price.
Nice Jig...I guess it’s in a away it’s a fixture but one could say it is definitely a jig’ Thanks for the video mr.pete. Keep up the great work and knowledgeable videos.
Another enjoy able episode .... You don't have to throw away drill bits. I have several excellent carving knives with blades made from drill rod. If you know folks who do smithing, they might be delighted to get those old bits.
I like to use a counter sink to knock the square edges off of a hole that was previously drilled, I think it helps keep the knicks out of the larger bits like shown. I have a Black and Decker drill bit sharpener and a Sears (General drill bit style sharpener) that uses the side of a grinding wheel also and have had good luck with them. I just purchased a 91000 since I wanted to be able to sharpen larger drill bits as well to the best they can be even though I can do them fairly well free handed on a bench grinder and using a drill bit sharpening gauge. Thanks for the video on this drill bit grinder.
@@mrpete222 WOW, I got my Lisle in today and set it up. With my Sears sharpener (General style) I can get a good edge on a bit and have it cutting very well then I tried a few of my bits after using the Lisle on them, "NIGHT AND DAY" is all there is to say. With the General style sharpener I am getting consistent cuts on both sides and curling them, the same with the Lisle but the bit seems to cut with a smoother flow after using the Lisle on them and the edges of the swarf/ribbon on the General style are a bit jagged where the ones after using the Lisle seem more like a smooth shearing/cutting action on the edges and the bit advances with less resistance. Don't get me wrong the General style is a good sharpener and at it's price range I don't believe can be beat, for a quick sharpening on a bit it's still a good sharpener to have.
Too big for my shed but looks a very useful piece of kit. The trouble is that as you use drills they become dull and accumulate in various places. A small Lisle would come in handy. Interesting series, yet again. Regards.
I know this video is old, but I just purchased the same unit and I have a question about dressing the wheel. Do you dress the wheel as the same angle as what you are going to grind the drill bit to? I have the original instructions and it is not very clear on this.
Those worn drills work great as either a first station drill in a multi spindle screw machine or as last station drills in multi spindle screw machines. Chop it off and resharpen with conventional tip. Sometimes you need a flat bottom hole and that's where it could be ground off almost flat and releaved and used in the last station. We made hydraulic fittings on those screw machines.
Oh Mr Pete, Sir! Please sir, please sir! :-) ( I always smile) Sir, Sir, Please don't throw that drill away - My Dad uses them for undersize holes. He marks them with paint near the shank and keeps them on a separate Bit stand. .... and IF I happen to break one, , Jings, heaven forbid! , I can always use that one as last resort! ........ think of the Planet, Mr Pete, Sir :-) We love your videos. Happy Father's day.. ( at least it is in the UK )
Oh Noses! Set! did you hear that? Hmm psst told tell everybody - but that IS a good take on Scrap, er em I mean REFUSE ( recycling? ) Think I should join the Greenblob ? Did Mr Pete ever think when he was having his Breakfast with Maple syrup, this morning, that the video would pan out into soemthing like this !! :-)
Old large worn-out drills with good taper shanks are handy to keep around (a few of them at least) because they are just the thing to make special Morse Taper tooling for the tail stock. Cut them off just above the chip relief grooves and put them away for later use.
MIC-IBARRA FRON GTO MEXICO thank you for this video finally i will be able to use my drill sharpener that i had for 4 years but since i did not have the manual icould not use it i have everything except diamond holder to dress the stone but i can make one thanks mr peter
For occasional use you’re ok for now but the bearings on that motor are sounding a little rough. The high speed motor is exacerbating the bearing wear. I wonder if this replacement motor has sealed bearings like the original probably had......probably not. My choice for a replacement motor would be a wash down motor or at least a wet grinder duty. But that’s just my thoughts.
It seems to me that you would have to set the distance the drill bit pokes out from the guide before you set the angle of the cutting lip (to be parallel with that scribe line) and position the guide finger.Otherwise the drill will rotate a little as you adjust its longitudinal position; the rotation depends on the helix angle and the longitudinal movement.It may amount to an unimportunately small difference, though.
Thanks for another interesting tip!How do I get an overwiev of all Your very educacating videos?I search a solution for a special problem and maybe You have already couvered it.Regards,StefanMaster of sciense in Electrionical Engineering and Compute Science but a complete newbe and amatoer regarding milling.
You have produced almost a full library of videos... It would take a hell lot of time to go trough all Your playlists. Looking at Your videos, at random, is often relaxing.I recently finished a job, cutting a 16 mm round Chrome Vanadium piece of steel down to a square profile with sides of 12,5 mm. The length was some 15 mm.My first milling bit was a 12 mm, 4 flute, gold coloured bit that now is really dull due to my ignorance. Using a second bit, a 10 mm, 4 flute bit of the same kind and taking smaller cuts I finished the job.My question is what kind bits I should use for cutting such hard steel.Can You point out some good videos answering that question?All my respect for Your skill,Stefan
Best price I was able to find on the 91000 complete with the essential parts is around $1000. There are prices lower than that, but they are all missing critical parts of the machine.
I hope that you do take the time to check out Macdonaugh /Sterling. They are an excellent example of a MADE IN AMERICA premium design that has survived the test of time and the insult of substandard imports. The Macdonaugh /Sterling relationship began around 1895. The design of the Sterling has changed very little in 123 years. The Sterling remains so popular that there is a year waiting list even at a $4000 price. I think it is to bad that Lisle disconnected their excellent 91000. I will buy a LISLE if I can get a deal on one. I like good tools that work well.
Bob Smith I have the exact unit you are taking about. Built in 1963 and I can still get great customer service for parts. The only thing I have needed to order are the stamped metal degree stops that got too close to the wheel.
I also ordered a replacement drill stop because the one that came with this machine is damaged. A replacement knob, boot and knurled adjustment screw rounded out my order. The parts lady was knowledgeable and refreshingly helpful. There are some great STERLING training videos on You Tube.
This simple machine just taught me more in 10 years of working in a shop then any other way ive been explained. Such a great resource and teacher..
Wow, thanks!
THE best teaching on sharpening drill bits I have EVER seen. But then that should not surprise any one; when it comes to our "professor" extraordinaire! Yes "Mr Pete" be dah man!
Gifted unprecedented. Just imagine how great it would be to have EVERY teacher in school be a Mr Pete. WOW! And I mean EVERY subject.
Thank you very very very much for an encouraging comment. I'm glad you liked the video
Mr. Pete, I thank you for your in depth 2 part instruction on this drill grinder ! I have that model 91000 too. I read, reread, then reread them again, the (so called) "Set up instructions" from the company, but your 2 videos, made sense on the proper set up. Have 10 drills, of various sizes to do tomorrow. Thanks for taking the time to FULLY explain it !
I am very glad the video helped you
A replacement motor might be the reason the switch is on the backside of the motor. Great series. Gotta find me a drill grinder. A quite morning, a cup of coffee, and mrpete/tubalcain! Wonderful start to the day.
Yes
I picked up one of these last year for cheap. This video and Abom's are great comprehensive "how to use" videos. Thanks MrPete.
Thanks
I'll never look at my Drill Doctor the same way again. I have grinder envy now. Thanks for the videos.
I envy your drill doctor. LOL
lol
Thanks Mr. Pete for this great video! Many years ago I bought a Lisle 91000 Drill Bit Grinder at an auction of high school shop equipment. I really went there hoping to get a deal on a mill or lathe, but I missed those due to some underhanded baloney that went on before I got to the auction. I wasn't from the area so not much that I could do. Anyway I saw the Lisle 91000 sitting on a bench and it looked brand new or very close to it. Just as important was that all the parts seemed to be present right down to the magnetic end adjuster and wheel conditioning attachment. It even had the operators manual and a quick start manual! They allowed me to plug it in and spin up the motor and it sounded like it was brand new. Perfect in fact. I hadn't used one of these machines in a really long time and I never got very familiar with them, but the auction bug bit me and I joined in on the bidding. Before I knew it I was up to serious money for this grinder, but I figured what the heck as I knew they weren't making these anymore and hadn't for several years. I recalled that these grinders had a very good reputation back in the day while I contemplated continued bidding.
I won the auction for the grinder and felt good for winning it, but bad for the money I spent. I hauled it home and messed around with it a little but just couldn't quite grasp how it was supposed to work. My drill bits that I ground didn't look quite the way I thought they should, or work very well, so I parked the grinder in a corner of my shop for many years due to some frustration. Recently I was moving some stuff around and had to relocate the Lisle grinder. I thought to myself, "why am I keeping this heavy beast when it serves no purpose?" In fact I was going to just give the darn thing away to a friend of mine, but he was hesitant to take it. Then I had second thoughts about just giving it away and I decided hook or by crook I was going to figure out how this thing worked. Your video on this grinder has helped me out a lot in that regard. At least now I have a basic understanding of how one sets up the drill bit for grinding. I really appreciate the help and information. Thanks again..
Rick H.
Thank you for that interesting story. Yes they are a little tricky to use. In fact, I gave mine to Adam booth six months ago.
Happy Fathers Day mrpete.
I told my two sons that before we do anything, I had to watch the new mrpete video.
lol
As always, very informative and entertaining. Watching the motion up close like this, for those of us without such a mechanical grinder, provides a better understanding of the hand motion required to satisfactorily hand grind drill bits.
As Rein Rapp from the 'Engineer's Black Book' commented in a previous video, you have made pretty much the definitive series on drill sharpening. Understanding the geometry of what is actually happening when engaging in this process can indeed be a challenge. I believe this series of videos goes a long way towards 'bursting the myth' of sharpening twist drills. Thank-you indeed sir. Kindest regards. Joe
Thank you very much for a wonderful comment. I'm glad you liked it, and you encouraged me greatly.
Mr Pete thanks for making this great series. Happy Fathers Day!
Thanks
Yes, happy Fathers Day!
Thank you so much,my machine is just like yours.But i got no manual or instructions,,had no clue how to use machine..thanks to your 2 part series ,,I now can't wait to hit the shop and fire this up so i can use my bits again.
👍👍👍
What an absolutely fantastic series - I don't have a lilse grinder but I am sure as heck going to get one or some equivalent - Mr Pete you are a great teacher and an inspiration - I have recent acquired a whole machine shop full of morse taper drills of the later sizes up to I & 3 quarters and this has inspired me to go out and get one of these - thanks again sir.
Thank you for supporting me. Yes, get all those big drill bits sharpened
GREAT SERIES Mr. Pete! I had one of these in the shop at Lord Film back in younger and dumber days. We did not have any instructions and I think I may have damaged it trying to figure it out. Of course, there was no UA-cam back then. As I recall, the replacement wheel was quite pricey. Yours seems to do a much better job then mine did, or perhaps it's your experience shining through! I did figure out the motion to sharpen pretty well by hand, good enough for maintenance on the production floor, but not for the higher precision expected in the machine shop. I concur with others, if you're going to attempt to refresh the edge of all of your drill stock, you replace those bearings!
🤙
Thanks Mr. Pete! I don't expect to ever sharpen a drill bit, but it was, as always, entertaining!
It cut just like a brand-new bit! That's gotta feel good! Thanks, Mr. Pete! :-)
Yes
These are great videos. A demo of how to split the point or thin the web would be a welcome addition.
That might be coming if I get that darex.
Another great video with so much information. Thank you Mr. Pete.
Great series!!! Enjoyed it a lot!! Now I have to learn to use my Darex Drill Grinder. Thanks Mr Pete!
Yes
Thank you Mr. Pete, Great series and learned a lot. Took a lot of the black art and the 3 P's (practice practice practice) out of bit grinding. Be great to have one of those Lisle grinders and will keep an eye out for one to restore at a good price.
Thank you for the great explanation of the proper use of this tool. I don't have one, but it was very interesting to watch.
Thanks
An excellent drill grinder educational series...👍🏻👍🏻 I now wish I had a drill repair grinder...👏🏻
Thanks
Nothing like a Mr Pete video !
Nice Jig...I guess it’s in a away it’s a fixture but one could say it is definitely a jig’
Thanks for the video mr.pete. Keep up the great work and knowledgeable videos.
Thanks
Another enjoy able episode .... You don't have to throw away drill bits. I have several excellent carving knives with blades made from drill rod. If you know folks who do smithing, they might be delighted to get those old bits.
Thanks
I like to use a counter sink to knock the square edges off of a hole that was previously drilled, I think it helps keep the knicks out of the larger bits like shown. I have a Black and Decker drill bit sharpener and a Sears (General drill bit style sharpener) that uses the side of a grinding wheel also and have had good luck with them. I just purchased a 91000 since I wanted to be able to sharpen larger drill bits as well to the best they can be even though I can do them fairly well free handed on a bench grinder and using a drill bit sharpening gauge. Thanks for the video on this drill bit grinder.
👍👍👍
@@mrpete222 WOW, I got my Lisle in today and set it up. With my Sears sharpener (General style) I can get a good edge on a bit and have it cutting very well then I tried a few of my bits after using the Lisle on them, "NIGHT AND DAY" is all there is to say.
With the General style sharpener I am getting consistent cuts on both sides and curling them, the same with the Lisle but the bit seems to cut with a smoother flow after using the Lisle on them and the edges of the swarf/ribbon on the General style are a bit jagged where the ones after using the Lisle seem more like a smooth shearing/cutting action on the edges and the bit advances with less resistance. Don't get me wrong the General style is a good sharpener and at it's price range I don't believe can be beat, for a quick sharpening on a bit it's still a good sharpener to have.
amazing, Jimmy Stewart demonstrating drill bit sharpening !
lol thanks
have you used the Craftsman drill grinding attachment Z 9-6677? it's super simple to setup and use.
Is there any hope for dull left-hand bits, or is careful freehand sharpening the only option?
🤔
Drill Doctor makes a chuck for LH bits. $35
I never tried it
Too big for my shed but looks a very useful piece of kit. The trouble is that as you use drills they become dull and accumulate in various places. A small Lisle would come in handy. Interesting series, yet again. Regards.
🤙
I know this video is old, but I just purchased the same unit and I have a question about dressing the wheel. Do you dress the wheel as the same angle as what you are going to grind the drill bit to? I have the original instructions and it is not very clear on this.
No, just dress the wheel square with the sides
Thanks, I appreciate the quick response.
I was hoping you would thin the web for those of us that are fans of stubby drill bits.
I've always just hit the webbing with the corner of the grinding wheel. Probably crude, but seems to work. A Dremel wheel might be a better way.
I was hoping to see that too, and perhaps putting a rake on the bit.
A sharp video Prof Peterson ! happy fathers day
Thank you very much
Great video! Now we need to see how to thin the web on those short ones :)
Yes
Excelente, quanto talento…, sua ferramenta de afiação é espetacular, eu não conhecia!
Abraço aqui do Brasil 🇧🇷
Great demo, thanks.
🤙
Those worn drills work great as either a first station drill in a multi spindle screw machine or as last station drills in multi spindle screw machines. Chop it off and resharpen with conventional tip. Sometimes you need a flat bottom hole and that's where it could be ground off almost flat and releaved and used in the last station. We made hydraulic fittings on those screw machines.
Thanks
Happy Fathers Day , Mr. Pete ! Great Series..Great Build ...As Usual !!! Whats Next ??? Best Regards
lol
Thank you Mr. Pete!
Enjoyed the grinder videos . Coffee and Mrpete 👌
Hey, Steve. I always enjoy your videos.
Bob Smith Thank you Bob👍
🤙
Nice job.
Thanks
Great series Mr. Pete ! Thank you !
Thanks
Bravo Mr.Pete well done
🤙
another OUTSTANDING set of videos mrpete222 thank you / oh tell us how those little drill bits are made (i would think perhaps investment casting ? )
I have no idea how they make those tiny drills
BUT your my youtube shop teacher ! i guess i will never know.
Thanks for drilling down all those good points!
How do you set your drill sharpener for drill bit twisted on the left????
I think Ill send Mr Pete 40 lbs of drill bits to sharpen. For an old restored machine it sure does a fine job.
lol
Oh Mr Pete, Sir! Please sir, please sir! :-) ( I always smile) Sir, Sir, Please don't throw that drill away - My Dad uses them for undersize holes. He marks them with paint near the shank and keeps them on a separate Bit stand. .... and IF I happen to break one, , Jings, heaven forbid! , I can always use that one as last resort! ........ think of the Planet, Mr Pete, Sir :-) We love your videos. Happy Father's day.. ( at least it is in the UK )
When your older and have gathered so many drill bits they go in the art bin
Oh Noses! Set! did you hear that? Hmm psst told tell everybody - but that IS a good take on Scrap, er em I mean REFUSE ( recycling? ) Think I should join the Greenblob ?
Did Mr Pete ever think when he was having his Breakfast with Maple syrup, this morning, that the video would pan out into soemthing like this !! :-)
Old large worn-out drills with good taper shanks are handy to keep around (a few of them at least) because they are just the thing to make special Morse Taper tooling for the tail stock.
Cut them off just above the chip relief grooves and put them away for later use.
I cannot hang onto everything
Say it ain't so!
Very good camera angles on this video.
Thanks Ted
Do you know where I can AQUIRE one of these grinders ?
Great stuff! Thanks for sharing Mr. Pete!
Thanks
Great rebuild. Would have been nice to see the improved cutting quality of the renewed cutting edges after regrinding :-)
👌
Are the 5 inch wheels still for sale? GREAT VIDEOS
I think so
H and m abrasives has the wheel 46 and 60 ..........
Awesome series Sir!
Thanks
MIC-IBARRA FRON GTO MEXICO
thank you for this video finally i will be able to use my drill sharpener that i had for 4 years but since i did not have the manual icould not use it i have everything except diamond holder to dress the stone but i can make one thanks mr peter
👍
That "General" drill grinder unit use the side of a grinder wheel. It's not a complex to set up. I use it for sizes 3/16's to 3/4".
For occasional use you’re ok for now but the bearings on that motor are sounding a little rough. The high speed motor is exacerbating the bearing wear. I wonder if this replacement motor has sealed bearings like the original probably had......probably not. My choice for a replacement motor would be a wash down motor or at least a wet grinder duty. But that’s just my thoughts.
It seems to me that you would have to set the distance the drill bit pokes out from the guide before you set the angle of the cutting lip (to be parallel with that scribe line) and position the guide finger.Otherwise the drill will rotate a little as you adjust its longitudinal position; the rotation depends on the helix angle and the longitudinal movement.It may amount to an unimportunately small difference, though.
Yes, that is one of the considerations
Enjoyed very much.. Thanks for sharing sir..
Thanks
Very good. As always. Thanks
🤙
`Pure entertainment value ` it surely was!
Thanks
Not a bad series for an old buggy whip maker!
lol
Great video. Wish I had one. Cheers
Thanks
Nice work!
Thanks for another interesting tip!How do I get an overwiev of all Your very educacating videos?I search a solution for a special problem and maybe You have already couvered it.Regards,StefanMaster of sciense in Electrionical Engineering and Compute Science but a complete newbe and amatoer regarding milling.
Thank you for watching. Take a look at my play lists for all of my videos
You have produced almost a full library of videos... It would take a hell lot of time to go trough all Your playlists. Looking at Your videos, at random, is often relaxing.I recently finished a job, cutting a 16 mm round Chrome Vanadium piece of steel down to a square profile with sides of 12,5 mm. The length was some 15 mm.My first milling bit was a 12 mm, 4 flute, gold coloured bit that now is really dull due to my ignorance. Using a second bit, a 10 mm, 4 flute bit of the same kind and taking smaller cuts I finished the job.My question is what kind bits I should use for cutting such hard steel.Can You point out some good videos answering that question?All my respect for Your skill,Stefan
Had to laugh watching this, my girlfriend from across the table says- he sounds just like my shop teacher.
lol
I have made milling cutters from damaged drills 👍
Best price I was able to find on the 91000 complete with the essential parts is around $1000. There are prices lower than that, but they are all missing critical parts of the machine.
Yes, they are rather pricey. I gave mine to abomb last summer.
THANK YOU...for sharing.
🤙
I hope that you do take the time to check out Macdonaugh /Sterling. They are an excellent example of a MADE IN AMERICA premium design that has survived the test of time and the
insult of substandard imports. The Macdonaugh /Sterling relationship began around 1895. The design of the Sterling has changed very little in 123 years.
The Sterling remains so popular that there is a year waiting list even at a $4000 price.
I think it is to bad that Lisle disconnected their excellent 91000. I will buy a LISLE if I can get a deal on one. I like good tools that work well.
Bob Smith I have the exact unit you are taking about. Built in 1963 and I can still get great customer service for parts. The only thing I have needed to order are the stamped metal degree stops that got too close to the wheel.
I also ordered a replacement drill stop because the one that came with this machine is damaged. A replacement knob, boot and knurled adjustment screw rounded out my order. The parts lady was knowledgeable and refreshingly helpful. There are some great STERLING training videos on You Tube.
I will check it out
I'm really liking this series. My Drill Doctor is a joke compared to this thing.
lol
I spy a Rockford Screw Products trademark!!!!
You might mention it does not work (at least for me) on a counter clockwise bit. Lets not talk about how I found out.
lol
You were lamenting 🤭😂
I am always lamenting
Save the taper from that damaged bit. Put a center drill in it. Assuming the taper is in good shape.
Happy Father’s Day.
Thanks
enjoyed
Thanks
Neat
👌
they dont make machines like that anymore
Thanks
my drill doctor works alot faster and cleaner