Thanks for your video. I have a 2002 Chrysler 300M car and the display would go off intermittently. I had tried several attempts at soldering components but nothing worked. This time I soldered these three resistors and it is working fine now. 😀
glad to have helped, too bad my 300m is no longer with me, timing belt broke/snapped on the highway right at the required time interval to have it changed
@@diyvinny6300 I had the water pump replaced, and the mechanic said I ought to replace the timing belt and tensioner, so I di that too. I recently had a problem with the instrument panel going dead intermittently. The windshield wiper would not park correctly as well. I finally found that it was a poor ground where the battery connects to the chassis. Wire brushed it and contact cleaner fixed both.
@@artisanwest9730 cool, easy fix, and for me i was all ready to get the timing belt done until it broke, would of been my 2nd timing belt job and i would of done the water pump as its right there when doing the timing belt, dont go over the limit on time or miles driven b4 doing the belt, else engine is toast / too much money to get it fixed
Without this video I would've gotten lost in this board, I used to bang on the dash for display to come back, and over time display disappeared and never came back, after I did the soldering it came back..thanks for posting this video
After wanting to do this for almost 2 years (too lazy lol) I finally took a 30 min break from TV and did it and it work! Also as you mentioned I didn't remove the control from the housing just the 4 screws holding the tin piece and 1 screw holding the circuit board. In addition I removed the 4 lights and cleaned with contact cleaner because 2 weren't always turning on. Lets see if it fixes THAT problem. Thanks
Thanks for this video. I did it. You just saved me 232 dollars and a 200 dollar core fee. This is great. All it cost me was a small jar of flux. Thanks again.
Thanks very much. This worked perfectly! One comment...be careful not to turn over the outside trim over when the guts are out of it, as there are little 'plungers' that transfer the button pressing function to the circuit board inside, these aren't held in ...and will fall out...and good luck finding them! Great video otherwise!
Vinny,great job on your video,perfect camera angle and your guide to fixing my problem. You save me a lot of money my friend. I will subscribe to your channel,..thanks again!!
Hey Vinny, thanks for the information video. I had the same exact problem, in 2 heads. The first one , I fried, because I touched stuff, I wasn’t supposed too. This second head, I bought, had the same exact problem. I couldn’t believe it? So I searched here on utube, and saw your video. I soldered the parts, that you showed, and sure enough, it now works. Thanks for the knowledge!👍 I thought the whole time, it was a loose pin, in the harness? Apparently not? Thanks again.
Thank you for this video. I tried soldering but my soldering iron left big globs of solder and it still didn't work. So I painted flux in the area that you indicated on both sides of the board and used a heat gun to flow the solder on the surface mount components. I was worried that I might destroy the components with the heat but it was dead anyway so what did I have to lose. It works flawlessly and now I have my display back.
Just needed to know how to remove the panel on my 99 Dodge Intrepid; button lights were out (PC74-make sure of 'style') and the Intrepid is a bit different with an extension on the top left for the track control, but basically the same with clips. Luckily my display unit is ok, but I inspected the SMD's and they are good. Thank you.
So that's it? I thought it was a big job to do or have to replace the thing. Mine have been off for years, now I'm gonna try to fix it. Same as in My Intrepid.
if head unit actually works but has no display yes it will work if ur not bad in soldering. but i explain a few simple techniques in getting a successful re-solder to take effect. might fail again but just redo the solder points
@@diyvinny6300 Yes, My head unit controls works, So hopefully this will work for Me... But there's also a possibility that after resoldering it might still fail again?? ... 🤔
@@vinnyc7613 Well It Cost Me Some Soldering Iron And Solder Wire... Lls. About 50 Bucks... :o... But, I did 3 Cars with it, So I Can't Complain On The $$$....
A related question - my backlight burned out for the two buttons on the left (AUTO/OFF and TEMP). At the 9:15 minute mark on the video, I can see 3 light bulbs. I suppose I would need to change the third light bulb on the right to get that working again right? Thanks in advance :)
@@diyvinny6300 Last question. Since I don't know what that bulb exactly looks like, can I simply take it out (to take it to the shop to get the same one) and drive without that one bulb till I buy a new one? I am not an electricity expert and I don't want to mess anything up.
@@markmarku8169 its sized by mm, idk the size, cheap on ebay but faster at local parts supplier, call to make sure they have various sizes in stock, easy to remove/replace, just push in and turn
@@Mr_57ChargerRT since youre taking the heater control unit out it doesnt take that much longer to do the resolder part. ymmv and to each their own i guess but im fairly cheap so i tend to everything myself
This worked like a charm. I just wanted to say thank you!!!
I JUST DID THAT- IT WORKED PERFECTLY! thanks a ton!
yw
Thank you very much Vinny. A few minutes to watch, a few minutes to fix, big smile all week.
Cheers
Thanks for your video. I have a 2002 Chrysler 300M car and the display would go off intermittently. I had tried several attempts at soldering components but nothing worked. This time I soldered these three resistors and it is working fine now. 😀
glad to have helped, too bad my 300m is no longer with me, timing belt broke/snapped on the highway right at the required time interval to have it changed
@@diyvinny6300 I had the water pump replaced, and the mechanic said I ought to replace the timing belt and tensioner, so I di that too. I recently had a problem with the instrument panel going dead intermittently. The windshield wiper would not park correctly as well. I finally found that it was a poor ground where the battery connects to the chassis. Wire brushed it and contact cleaner fixed both.
@@artisanwest9730 cool, easy fix, and for me i was all ready to get the timing belt done until it broke, would of been my 2nd timing belt job and i would of done the water pump as its right there when doing the timing belt, dont go over the limit on time or miles driven b4 doing the belt, else engine is toast / too much money to get it fixed
DIY Vinny, Thanks for the video. You just saved me $250.00+ by me taking 30 - 45 min. of time to repair it myself. Thanks again. Great video.
Without this video I would've gotten lost in this board, I used to bang on the dash for display to come back, and over time display disappeared and never came back, after I did the soldering it came back..thanks for posting this video
Finally someone has found the problem with the display coming and going. Many thanks to this guy and very much appreciated!!! Jim
Thanks, that works just great. Almost lost one if the resistors but finally got it working. Cheers from Poland. Dziękuję :)
Also dziękuję
Great Job. You will save others many hours of hunting for false solutions!
Thanks! Going to take care of this, this weekend, thanks to your video. This saved me quite a bit.
This fixed the issue on my '05 Chrysler Sebring. Thanks a lot!
Thanks, I worked on this for a month or more. If not for your video I'd still be in the same boat. Thanks again!!
After wanting to do this for almost 2 years (too lazy lol) I finally took a 30 min break from TV and did it and it work! Also as you mentioned I didn't remove the control from the housing just the 4 screws holding the tin piece and 1 screw holding the circuit board. In addition I removed the 4 lights and cleaned with contact cleaner because 2 weren't always turning on. Lets see if it fixes THAT problem. Thanks
Thanks for this video. I did it. You just saved me 232 dollars and a 200 dollar core fee. This is great. All it cost me was a small jar of flux. Thanks again.
neat soldering technique 👀
thank you for your demonstration of dextricity 💪
hehe. yw
Thanks very much. This worked perfectly! One comment...be careful not to turn over the outside trim over when the guts are out of it, as there are little 'plungers' that transfer the button pressing function to the circuit board inside, these aren't held in ...and will fall out...and good luck finding them! Great video otherwise!
nice, got rid of my 300m with the display not working. heater ac worked just had to guess what setting it was set to, seems like an easy fix. thx
Vinny,great job on your video,perfect camera angle and your guide to fixing my problem. You save me a lot of money my friend. I will subscribe to your channel,..thanks again!!
Thank You very much sir! just did that on my 300M special 2004 and it fixed the issue
Watched your video and it worked like a charm! Thanks so much Vinny!!
Muchas gracias por la demostración amigo, me es de mucha ayuda y muy bien detallado el proceso, muchas gracias 👏 saludos 👍
Nice work Vinny. Thanks for the video.
Thanks muy friend, I was loocking for the problem two times, but i never see the weld damage. Greetings from Toluca, México.
Hey Vinny, thanks for the information video. I had the same exact problem, in 2 heads. The first one , I fried, because I touched stuff, I wasn’t supposed too. This second head, I bought, had the same exact problem. I couldn’t believe it? So I searched here on utube, and saw your video. I soldered the parts, that you showed, and sure enough, it now works. Thanks for the knowledge!👍 I thought the whole time, it was a loose pin, in the harness? Apparently not? Thanks again.
Worked like a charm! Thanks!
Nicely done ✔️
Worked perfectly 🎉
Thank you for this video. I tried soldering but my soldering iron left big globs of solder and it still didn't work. So I painted flux in the area that you indicated on both sides of the board and used a heat gun to flow the solder on the surface mount components. I was worried that I might destroy the components with the heat but it was dead anyway so what did I have to lose. It works flawlessly and now I have my display back.
Just needed to know how to remove the panel on my 99 Dodge Intrepid; button lights were out (PC74-make sure of 'style') and the Intrepid is a bit different with an extension on the top left for the track control, but basically the same with clips. Luckily my display unit is ok, but I inspected the SMD's and they are good. Thank you.
super great love it
Those mini lights are discontinued. How fun are those to find? I paid like, $48 bucks for 4 of them?
Worked for me 2!
So that's it? I thought it was a big job to do or have to replace the thing. Mine have been off for years, now I'm gonna try to fix it. Same as in My Intrepid.
if head unit actually works but has no display yes it will work if ur not bad in soldering. but i explain a few simple techniques in getting a successful re-solder to take effect. might fail again but just redo the solder points
@@diyvinny6300 Yes, My head unit controls works, So hopefully this will work for Me... But there's also a possibility that after resoldering it might still fail again?? ... 🤔
@@phigo4kins luckily it wont cost u anything to try the fix
@@vinnyc7613 Well It Cost Me Some Soldering Iron And Solder Wire... Lls. About 50 Bucks... :o... But, I did 3 Cars with it, So I Can't Complain On The $$$....
Thank you very much for your video, I have a 2007 town country with the same problem but the dashboard is different, I don't know what to do, thanks
A related question - my backlight burned out for the two buttons on the left (AUTO/OFF and TEMP). At the 9:15 minute mark on the video, I can see 3 light bulbs. I suppose I would need to change the third light bulb on the right to get that working again right? Thanks in advance :)
Yes thats correct
@@diyvinny6300 Last question. Since I don't know what that bulb exactly looks like, can I simply take it out (to take it to the shop to get the same one) and drive without that one bulb till I buy a new one? I am not an electricity expert and I don't want to mess anything up.
@@markmarku8169 its sized by mm, idk the size, cheap on ebay but faster at local parts supplier, call to make sure they have various sizes in stock, easy to remove/replace, just push in and turn
Thank you
Awesome
👍
Great vid Thank you
cool bro
A I'm in need of a close up picture of ur wires in the video plz
which wires? i dont have the car anymore, timing belt broke
Bro just order the Climate Control off of ebay and be done with it.
bro, this cost me nothing bro. hey bro, why r u watching stuff to fix, just go watch unbox vids ....bro
@@diyvinny6300 I don't have time on my hands like that.
@@Mr_57ChargerRT since youre taking the heater control unit out it doesnt take that much longer to do the resolder part. ymmv and to each their own i guess but im fairly cheap so i tend to everything myself
@@diyvinny6300 if that works for you.
@@Mr_57ChargerRT But you do have time on your hands to be arguing online? OK.