After applying the dye penetrant you do not spray the cleaner on the head. That will remove some of the penetrant from defects. Use cloth with the remover on it.
Last time I rebuilt an engine it came from an old Volvo P-544. It was leaking coolant and the center cylinders had low compression. So it was take off the head time. Fortunayely this wax before they buried engines under a forest of hoses and wires. After taking off the pair of SU carbs, which needed a cleaning anyway, they always needed cleaning and the exhaust manifold without breaking any studs, the valve covers came off ripping the gasket. Next the rocker arms. So long as they didn't wiggle to much I just cleaned them with some gasoline. Leaded gasoline at that. Then undo the head bolts by a quarter turn, a half turn and turn by hand. At least they were all in one piece. Then try to pull the head off the block. Try is appropriate so I hit it with a big rubber mallet and off it came. After cleaning with more gasoline on a rag I took a good look. There was a small groove between the center cylinders matched with one on the block. As I was in college at this time taking the head to a shop was way too expensive. Fortunately there was a oxyacytene torch and some bronze rod available. I filed out the groovs and filled them with bronze. Then filed the beads down flat. Checked the head with a framing square and feeler gauges. Close enough. The valves were worn out so I had to buy new exhaust valves. Then recut the seats (my father in law had a valve seat cutter. I dont lnow why) and, after replacing the valve guides, lapped in the valves. Put the head back on using Fel-Pro gasket set. After cleaning the SU's I bolted everything back together. The water leak was the water pump seal.This was shade tree mechanics at its best. The car ran for another 100k with out any more unusual problems. Great car. Wish we had kept it.
Now they would fill the groove with a tig welder ,and surface it. Exact same method,the tools are fancier. You did well apparently, 100k is not bad hahaha
Ok... The check-your-head-with-a-ruler thing is mostly for iron heads only. Two things here. 1. With an aluminum head, you ALWAYS have to re-surface the head before re-use, even if it's just to clean up the surface a little. 2. Aluminum is a very, very, VERY soft metal. When you bolt it to the block, the head will flex back into shape. If you were to try and "rock" that camshaft on the head while it was bolted to the block, you wouldn't be able to. If an iron head is warped too much, it's usually junk.
John Doe If it’s ohc and warped like this , don’t bother cause it’ll wipe out the cam bearings anyways. Being a diesel and aluminum it can be tricky To resurface this, what’s the height or lack of for the prechambers ? I can do vw idi diesel heads , but their chambers are flush, and the head can’t be warped badly. It’s just for a new surface. No use the block grinder, not the typical milling machine.
Generally you go for the head,and then for a doggy ,it's the logical outcome of a average man's expectations in life : engines and doggos If you want,i have a pussy in my last video : ua-cam.com/video/yo15f1jbAvI/v-deo.html
Looks like a Volvo cylinder head. It's a good idea to use either a rubber or wooden block when sanding the head surface. That engine was bad for cracking between the valve's. If memory serves me correct you were allowed cracks upto 1mm in depth.
Thanks for your time putting the video together, Dye Penetrant it's ok however it's not best suited for the job that you want it to do, Best Magnaflux the head in order to avoid the dye penetrant mess and also give you direct more easily detectable results. Minus on the Magnaflux is that you need a magnet and powder... I would suggest that you skim surface the head.
It could,luckily here there are only casting surface defects. A crack would let a dark red line. I agree it's quite a good method,it's quite cheap and works well.
For people who can't read this is checking head to see if it is worth milling or if is a huge paper weight the video is not titled how to resurface a head..... helps to know if the head is worth spending money on right
if its a head type you work on often then make plates with rubber glued to it so you can block the water channels. this way you just bolt it on, pressurize it and put it in a tub of water. if you dont see bubbles its fine. a 2 minute task if you got the plates made
You can use simple degreaser and hot water,or acetone,paint thinner,or even diesel fuel,kerosene. The point is to dissolve grease,and soften residus,wich are mostly,soot,grease,or petroleum products from oil or combustion,like tar.
when i did the head gasket on my 6.0 powerstroke (laugh all you want but it was still stock head bolts) we just used a straight edge and a feeler gauge. i cant remember what ford spec was but it was something like 0.010 MAX and if i was able to slide that under the straight edge it was pretty much trash or machine shop time. thats another way to check heads is to find the spec for the tolerance. This was from fords service manual too
Why would i laugh ? it's the only way to check a head geometry propely unless you have a milling machine and a comparator mounted on the machine. I have a machinist staight edge for this purpose only : ) You did good,as it should be done.
I just use a blue marker pen, go over all the mating surface, and then spray with wd40 . then using a piece of plate glass, which is ultra flat, place it on the surface and let the now dissolved ink spread out. if there are any high spots they will appear lighter in colour and if there are any low spots they will be darker.. Using this method and 1200 sand paper and the sheet of plate glass i rectified my vw diesel cylinder head..its been on for 3 months now and working fine...saved me a fortune in repair cost, after my engine overheated and blew the head gasket..
I can see cracks between the valves and the pre chambers at the beginning of the video. I would throw it directly in the bin at this point. Maybe i would save the pre chambers, the are hard to get for this engines.
1:26 It looks like cracked at every cylinder. Maybe this head has an edge at this point, i normally work on the vw 4 cylinders, the use to have a flat surface at this point and alway get cracks there.
@@martinziefle1647 It's a machined depression for each cylinder. It's something you see on aftermarket heads for turbo d24 engines. I didn't see that on naturaly aspirated engines. It's normal,and if it was a crack,you would see dye in those.
More importantly, check everything before assembly, particularly aluminum cylinder heads. Anything purchased used or reconditioned should be inspected as completely as possible, the reason it was turned in as a core, or put up for sale as "good - used" is as much taking someone at their word as it is THEM inspecting it before you purchase it. Quite often, NEW parts aren't what they're supposed to be. Best to be sure of a part before you go through all the time, money and work to install it!
A crack would retain more dye,so would be revealed by the revelant as a clear and defined coloration. Here,nothing was retained. Check that to see clearly the difference : www.ndttechnologies.com/products/penetrant_testing.html ndtservices.blogspot.com/2014/09/liquid-penetrant-inspection-for.html
I just worked on the head tehre,to sell it. Blocks can be warped,and you use the same straight edge to see that. Being way thicker ,and often in cast iron most of the time,they do not suffer as much as a head,running hotter,being softer,and pulsating at each powerstroke.
What was the dog doing around 6:30, eating the dye??? Anyways wear your goggles unless you have good medical insurance, and the unrelated personal (dog) should be away from working area, you can always play with it after the job is done, right?
Seapeddler, entirely true what you said. Dogs can detect cancer in humans long before doctors can.. They can also detect cracked cylinder heads. The dog knew his master was pissing up a rope. Shoulda listened to the dog and saved the veranda.
Yeah. Throw $150 to the wind because you could have used a straight edge or steel ruler feeler guage/spark plug gapper to just check it yourself. Skimming alone DOESN'T check for cracks. My father had a head skimmed and the bastard still leaked from a crack near the intake valve. Only head gasket coolant additive fixed it and then drove the car for another 7 or 8 years.
Not a good idea to sand the surface of an aluminum head! If you are going to then use a precision parallel and wrap sandpaper around it. Otherwise you are creating dips in the surface that you can't measure with that straightedge. Granted it looked like fairly fine sandpaper but seen many heads that people thought they were doing something good and .........
There is NO reason EVER to use sandpaper to clean head gasket material and carbon from the mating surface of a cylinder head. A razor blade held at 90 degrees will clean aluminum or cast iron without doing additional damage to surface. That said, most damage is caused by people trying to clean a used head and not knowing any better.
Stop with the spray. Use mineral spirits on anything with grease, carbon, or oil. Comes right up. If there are spots that are thicker, rinse and repeat. You'll thank me later
Yes,no cracks. A crack would look like a thin red line from wich the red penetrant would be sweated back. Look here : www.google.com/search?q=penetrant+crack&client=firefox-b-d&sxsrf=ALeKk02HuVJ_jT9cGeG6FhBRuXLXB3wHQw:1599992634672&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi4v4eF9eXrAhUM6RoKHYGJD_AQ_AUoAXoECAwQAw&biw=1920&bih=977
You cant use a paralle across the pre-combustion chambers as they are intentionally left proud of the head, if your decking the head, you knock these out, then skim the head, put them back in, then back the cutting/grinding head off and skim the pre-combustion chambers. Not many know about this or even bother to do it! As for the cam rocking torque the head back down with no valves and see if it still rocks. Another easy test is using rubber matt and plate with head bolts cover all water ways use a compressor fitting in thermostat mounting, if it hisses its leaking!
Depends. Some stick up and some don’t. Vw ones don’t , but to cut a new surface it’s best to use the block grinder and not the normal milling machine. And you only cutting enough off to give a clean surface, if it’s warped don’t bother you’ll have scrap.
@@MrTheHillfolk You wouldn't grind the head to just clean it. If you look carefully, he realised the pre combustion camber was causing the feeler to slide under more than when he placed the parallel between the cambers. Used to do alot of recon head work for a fair few garage contracts including bmw,ford,vauxhall,vw as it was beyond there scope. Quite a few expressed that flat heads didnt require skiming as it would add extra to pass on to customer. Only serverly warped heads where they had boiled it bad were scraped, most were salvagable, we did odd repairs that nobody else would like bucket sleeve replacements, where the buckets were forced out the side of its locating hole from the cam belt/chain snapping on rare casting heads like early e-types, cosworths. Funnily enough it was a Mr Hill that taught me alot.
chris I was always against messing with vw heads because nobody can do them right around here. That kind of changed once I started working in a shop. I built up a 1.6td in my spare time, and some idiot used a ton of copper spray gasket on a previous repair, and didn’t do a very nice cleaning job. They scratched the crap out of it. The head surface couldn’t be cleaned up any other way. The reason for using the block grinder is because the prechambers are flush. It was only a few thousandths, once it was clean we stopped.
I think that I know why the cam isn't seating right. That head should have been overheated previously and the head warped. The remove the head and the machine shop didn't do a good job. They should have clamped down the head onto a straight base and put it in the oven to straighten it up. Then, machine it, whatever it is needed to be done. That's the right way.
It's confusing yes,the best is to try yourself for best results. I tried and didn't get consistent results,the dog is pointing at the chicken in the oven,so i thought maybe the method isn't right.
Just google that ,i don't know where you live : www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHBF_frFR797FR797&biw=1920&bih=975&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=QYp2XPnUNcyalwS2_YCACQ&q=penetrating+dye+crack+&oq=penetrating+dye+crack+&gs_l=img.3...2386.7484..8273...0.0..0.141.698.4j3......1....1..gws-wiz-img.BVjuFgAHwxA You need the penetrating dye,and the developer.
don't waste your time and money on trying to salvage your old alloy head if you're going to rebuild your engine, better and cheaper in the long run to get a new head complete with valves and camshaft,
Dog died one week later. Cancer from all those chemicals. The guy died the following week. My lungs hurt just from watching. At 8:14 the guy says hmmm ( not sure what language). Wonder what he commented on ! A man of few words but he loved spraying toxic chemicals !
Пенетрант нужно тщательно вымывать с контролируемой поверхности, особенно с такой шероховатостью (>Ra12.5). В Вашем случае достаточно было удалить краситель с поверхности контроля под слабой струей воды со шланга, подсушить и промыть проблемные места еще раз (или несколько раз). На просушенной контролируемой поверхности, следы красителя (MR 68) не должны наблюдаться. Какой смысл наносить проявитель (MR 70) по красной поверхности? Вы же не забор перекрашиваете!
It's hard to detect cracks with some of those surface defects, but it's a good idea :-D. Not sure about the word "Controlling", checking a used engine head perhaps. Was the floor dye a hint to us? :-). Now the karcher is fixed that dye should vanish.
Thank you for the grammar : ) I corrected the title. When you have a crack,it's really visible,well dark red and defined. Yes,a hint ,so you don't make a mess like me lol
Hey i may be english, but i'm not perfect lol. Just an ordinary man, a bit daft and addicted to drinking tea :-D You could have used many words, like inspecting or testing for, detecting. i did watch the other video too, i've always found it interesting that some of the words in your captions look so close to english, and other languages seem to have very similar spellings. I think we must have stolen some of your words ha ha :-D.
@@zx8401ztv We robbed each others a bunch of words over time lol I think i never heard something else than a "week end" to define the last two days of the week lol I've asked to my mom,and she neither,she had no definition for this concept of those two days off. We have latin roots for sure and weird words here and there from a bit everybody ,like "zero" from the Arabs for example.
I had never thought about that before, it's so common and only for the two days lol. You could reverse it and say "The end of the week" but that is longer and "Weekend" works fine :-D. Another thing that we borrowed from you, "The magic roundabout" or originally " Le Manège enchanté". it was redubbed by eric thompson using different stories, i loved the series as a child :-D. The dog doogal just made me laugh, shuffled around with no visable legs. Loverly animation :-D
It's to mark metallic parts,to scribe them. Here you need to get the liquid penetrate in cracks,its particle size is different to allow this penetration. To do that you need Alizarin Crimson,wich i used here.
Cringed a bit with the sandpaper. I usually see scotchbrite being used. Personally I would use a power washer but nobody outside of my country ever seems to.
Wet sanding with 600 grain paper will only remove the gasket material,it barely remove some clearcoat on a car body,so it's not a problem on an aluminium head : ) Power washer is a good thing, i used a garden hose for my last head,too lazy to install the power washer lol
Correct. But it's a good clue nevertheless. You are not supposed to have play on a new head freshly machined,and can have some on a used used not torqued yet. It should be minimal however.
one can straighten heads its not common as it could be it just not doing it one can build there own rig to do it a little heat n effort can go a long way
@@kennethsolomon7233 Yeah, uses a straight edge 1 micron over the length but before testing, sands the thing by HAND putting 3 micron variances in the flatness. Sorry, major fail.
There's multiple videos on the use of this stuff in English. The spray leaks into cracks and then you wipe it off then the last can (developer) bring it out darker. There's a degrease at the start and another can of stuff you spray on the rag as you wipe it off. Some type of dye cleaner. I think a search for dye crack test should give you a better idea.
Penetrate Testing is done very bad.....no good cleaning between the dye and the powder....some areas are "overwashed" some are badly washed.....no info at all.....i´m an instructor for NDT including PT.....not a good job on this head !
I was about to say that... He cleaned it the wrong way... you dont directly apply cleaner to the metal, you spray it on a soft dry cloth and then clear the surface with it, otherwise, you'll just clean the penetrating liquid from the crack.
With water and soap,it does nearly nothing,you can do that no problem. You can see machining traces from the factory still under the soot ,in the combustion areas,while i used it there.
Konstantin M 1. Always use a lint free cloth 2. Washing the dye off also washes it out of cracks. 3. Water can dilute the dye and not allow the developer to work properly.
leave it to the pro's mate you made a big enough mess just looking for cracks. Bassnsane is right if your planning to let a machine shop rip you off milling the head make sure they line bore the cam journals too
Mate this colour contrast red penetrant dye like can be wiped with solvent on rag or water washed with very low pressure stream of droplets before drying as per all ISO level testing standards. Could have got the background a lot cleaner to help sensitivity of detection though. Would have paid to test all sides of block too esp. any changes in section or stiffener areas. For high level of test a UV penetrant system and blacklight is used for inspection.
So you learnt nothing from this but the only test he didn't do was a pressurized air leak test because his dye test done it anyway. This was pretty much every home test you could do on a head to check it.
5:42 How to check your terrace for cracks!
lool
After applying the dye penetrant you do not spray the cleaner on the head. That will remove some of the penetrant from defects. Use cloth with the remover on it.
Last time I rebuilt an engine it came from an old Volvo P-544. It was leaking coolant and the center cylinders had low compression. So it was take off the head time. Fortunayely this wax before they buried engines under a forest of hoses and wires. After taking off the pair of SU carbs, which needed a cleaning anyway, they always needed cleaning and the exhaust manifold without breaking any studs, the valve covers came off ripping the gasket. Next the rocker arms. So long as they didn't wiggle to much I just cleaned them with some gasoline. Leaded gasoline at that. Then undo the head bolts by a quarter turn, a half turn and turn by hand. At least they were all in one piece. Then try to pull the head off the block. Try is appropriate so I hit it with a big rubber mallet and off it came.
After cleaning with more gasoline on a rag I took a good look. There was a small groove between the center cylinders matched with one on the block. As I was in college at this time taking the head to a shop was way too expensive. Fortunately there was a oxyacytene torch and some bronze rod available. I filed out the groovs and filled them with bronze. Then filed the beads down flat. Checked the head with a framing square and feeler gauges. Close enough.
The valves were worn out so I had to buy new exhaust valves. Then recut the seats (my father in law had a valve seat cutter. I dont lnow why) and, after replacing the valve guides, lapped in the valves. Put the head back on using Fel-Pro gasket set. After cleaning the SU's I bolted everything back together. The water leak was the water pump seal.This was shade tree mechanics at its best.
The car ran for another 100k with out any more unusual problems. Great car. Wish we had kept it.
Now they would fill the groove with a tig welder ,and surface it.
Exact same method,the tools are fancier.
You did well apparently, 100k is not bad hahaha
Ok... The check-your-head-with-a-ruler thing is mostly for iron heads only. Two things here. 1. With an aluminum head, you ALWAYS have to re-surface the head before re-use, even if it's just to clean up the surface a little. 2. Aluminum is a very, very, VERY soft metal. When you bolt it to the block, the head will flex back into shape. If you were to try and "rock" that camshaft on the head while it was bolted to the block, you wouldn't be able to. If an iron head is warped too much, it's usually junk.
John Doe
If it’s ohc and warped like this , don’t bother cause it’ll wipe out the cam bearings anyways.
Being a diesel and aluminum it can be tricky To resurface this, what’s the height or lack of for the prechambers ?
I can do vw idi diesel heads , but their chambers are flush, and the head can’t be warped badly.
It’s just for a new surface.
No use the block grinder, not the typical milling machine.
1- not at all,you just check it.
2-right,it's what i said in an other comment,they are quite "flexible" lol
@@MrTheHillfolk
This head was on a running engine,it's a reproduction head from AMC.
Chambers are not flush here if i remember.
You can also test a head for flatness with straight edge shining a light through it in a dark room.
I didn't think of doing it in the dark,good idea : )
Came for the engine head, stayed for the dog!
Generally you go for the head,and then for a doggy ,it's the logical outcome of a average man's expectations in life : engines and doggos
If you want,i have a pussy in my last video : ua-cam.com/video/yo15f1jbAvI/v-deo.html
Looks like a Volvo cylinder head.
It's a good idea to use either a rubber or wooden block when sanding the head surface.
That engine was bad for cracking between the valve's.
If memory serves me correct you were allowed cracks upto 1mm in depth.
Correct,
It's a problem found quite often on indirect injection diesel engines.
Thanks for your time putting the video together, Dye Penetrant it's ok however it's not best suited for the job that you want it to do, Best Magnaflux the head in order to avoid the dye penetrant mess and also give you direct more easily detectable results. Minus on the Magnaflux is that you need a magnet and powder...
I would suggest that you skim surface the head.
Aluminum
@@ericpalmer7104 Nooooooo :(
MOre like Arghhhh
I never tought cracked will be inside the valve guide camber, great testing method👩🔧👩🏭
It could,luckily here there are only casting surface defects.
A crack would let a dark red line.
I agree it's quite a good method,it's quite cheap and works well.
Good video! This head looks like a 2,4 liters Volkswagen diesel, use on a 1984 Volvo I used to have !
Thanks,
Yes it is.
For people who can't read this is checking head to see if it is worth milling or if is a huge paper weight the video is not titled how to resurface a head..... helps to know if the head is worth spending money on right
if its a head type you work on often then make plates with rubber glued to it so you can block the water channels.
this way you just bolt it on, pressurize it and put it in a tub of water. if you dont see bubbles its fine.
a 2 minute task if you got the plates made
Yes,it's a good tool if you work on them regularly,or if it's too costly to get them checked for you : )
What fluid are you spraying on the gasket to help blade remove gasket? I have not found anything I really like yet!
You can use simple degreaser and hot water,or acetone,paint thinner,or even diesel fuel,kerosene.
The point is to dissolve grease,and soften residus,wich are mostly,soot,grease,or petroleum products from oil or combustion,like tar.
Awesome!! Love it....you have a great skill and great job mate.
when i did the head gasket on my 6.0 powerstroke (laugh all you want but it was still stock head bolts) we just used a straight edge and a feeler gauge. i cant remember what ford spec was but it was something like 0.010 MAX and if i was able to slide that under the straight edge it was pretty much trash or machine shop time. thats another way to check heads is to find the spec for the tolerance. This was from fords service manual too
Why would i laugh ? it's the only way to check a head geometry propely unless you have a milling machine and a comparator mounted on the machine.
I have a machinist staight edge for this purpose only : )
You did good,as it should be done.
@@michaelovitch no that it was a blown 6.0 head gasket lol
Great, I'll definitely do this next time I go out to view a used car
: )
I just use a blue marker pen, go over all the mating surface, and then spray with wd40 . then using a piece of plate glass, which is ultra flat, place it on the surface and let the now dissolved ink spread out. if there are any high spots they will appear lighter in colour and if there are any low spots they will be darker.. Using this method and 1200 sand paper and the sheet of plate glass i rectified my vw diesel cylinder head..its been on for 3 months now and working fine...saved me a fortune in repair cost, after my engine overheated and blew the head gasket..
Its a good repair,just need to be sure how much you remove to not get valves touching the pistons.
Why did it overheated ?
I can see cracks between the valves and the pre chambers at the beginning of the video. I would throw it directly in the bin at this point. Maybe i would save the pre chambers, the are hard to get for this engines.
When in the video ?
1:26 It looks like cracked at every cylinder. Maybe this head has an edge at this point, i normally work on the vw 4 cylinders, the use to have a flat surface at this point and alway get cracks there.
@@martinziefle1647
It's a machined depression for each cylinder.
It's something you see on aftermarket heads for turbo d24 engines.
I didn't see that on naturaly aspirated engines.
It's normal,and if it was a crack,you would see dye in those.
More importantly, check everything before assembly,
particularly aluminum cylinder heads.
Anything purchased used or reconditioned should be inspected as completely as possible, the reason it was turned in as a core, or put up for sale as "good - used" is as much taking someone at their word as it is THEM inspecting it before you purchase it.
Quite often, NEW parts aren't what they're supposed to be.
Best to be sure of a part before you go through all the time, money and work to install it!
Man, this is so true. There's a plethora of bad parts being sold on ebay. Buyer beware for sure.
WOW this guy is a quick worker. I hope he charges by the hour. Will be ringing you soon with my car.
Well thought out plan of attack dude do you turn on your wipers after the rain has stopped too
08:33 crack between the chambers or casting mark? i think casting mark from production of the cylinder head
Casting marks : )
3 it is very interesting and useful method. Thank you.
: )
Thanks
how do you know the difference between surface imperfection and a crack?
A crack would retain more dye,so would be revealed by the revelant as a clear and defined coloration.
Here,nothing was retained.
Check that to see clearly the difference :
www.ndttechnologies.com/products/penetrant_testing.html
ndtservices.blogspot.com/2014/09/liquid-penetrant-inspection-for.html
Для диванных экспертов, этот метод позволяет обнаружить трещины в самом начале, когда они еще не сквозные. В отличии от опрессовки.
Где продаются такие баллоны?
спасибо сансей
6:04 is this step required for checking the head? I'm asking cause I don't have a dog
You will have troubles without this step,but you should be able to succeed after a while.
: )
@@michaelovitch lol thanks
Always start in the middle with a feeler gauge.
Is this what the machine shop does
I've seen them use a suction cup around the intake exhaust runners and look at a gauge
When you were checking the gaps on the head, were you checking if the block was warped?
I just worked on the head tehre,to sell it.
Blocks can be warped,and you use the same straight edge to see that.
Being way thicker ,and often in cast iron most of the time,they do not suffer as much as a head,running hotter,being softer,and pulsating at each powerstroke.
Thanks for the info, glad I’m actually learning something.
@@stuntcox5731 You learn because you ask the questions : )
Thanks for asking : )
This is kinda rule of thumb on aluminum heads,,, If they are off a engine,, They really need to be whacked before putting back on!
whacked ?
That does this mean ? Hit it with a hammer ?
@@sojournsojourntraveler1203 Fresh cut,,
Machined to specks?
@@sojournsojourntraveler1203 As far as flatness to spec's
Thank you
What was the dog doing around 6:30, eating the dye??? Anyways wear your goggles unless you have good medical insurance, and the unrelated personal (dog) should be away from working area, you can always play with it after the job is done, right?
Can someone please post the link for the JELT Detect Fissures and Penetrant spray? Cant seem to find anywhere!!
Yes,like said they work about the same,don't bother too much with the brand.
Bonjour, Est ce la culasse de la 240 qu'on apercoit dans la vidéo de la culasse de la R21 ? ça ressemble fort a une culasse de D24 :)
Oui,c'est une culasse de d24 : )
Bon oeil !
J'en ai plusieurs (dont une à vendre..)
Clean ass heads fam
: )
@@michaelovitch fucking ycm ain't no joke
There is a species in the Draco system who can straighten this head.
The dog knew the whole time what was wrong.
Seapeddler, entirely true what you said. Dogs can detect cancer in humans long before doctors can.. They can also detect cracked cylinder heads. The dog knew his master was pissing up a rope. Shoulda listened to the dog and saved the veranda.
this is what one would call a bush mechanic
Interesting hobby you got there.
For those who can't spend ages mucking around, go and have the cylinder head skimmed??
Yeah. Throw $150 to the wind because you could have used a straight edge or steel ruler feeler guage/spark plug gapper to just check it yourself. Skimming alone DOESN'T check for cracks. My father had a head skimmed and the bastard still leaked from a crack near the intake valve. Only head gasket coolant additive fixed it and then drove the car for another 7 or 8 years.
VERY GOOD lesson to us DIY. If you can say the 2 sprays?
Thank you : )
The name of the products are a penetrant dye and its developer powder : )
Not a good idea to sand the surface of an aluminum head! If you are going to then use a precision parallel and wrap sandpaper around it. Otherwise you are creating dips in the surface that you can't measure with that straightedge. Granted it looked like fairly fine sandpaper but seen many heads that people thought they were doing something good and .........
"tolerances and dimensonal control" engineering =)
There is NO reason EVER to use sandpaper to clean head gasket material and carbon from the mating surface of a cylinder head. A razor blade held at 90 degrees will clean aluminum or cast iron without doing additional damage to surface. That said, most damage is caused by people trying to clean a used head and not knowing any better.
It's better to clean the dye using a cloth damp with cleaner and apply less developer, too much developer can hide small cracks.
I agree.
5:00 a bunch of happy guys having a good time. aww
O O
u
Stop with the spray. Use mineral spirits on anything with grease, carbon, or oil. Comes right up. If there are spots that are thicker, rinse and repeat. You'll thank me later
It's a good way to clean,but here,it's better to avoid petroleum products before to use the dye.
so did that engine head pass the test or not? and if not what made you think so?
Yes,no cracks.
A crack would look like a thin red line from wich the red penetrant would be sweated back.
Look here : www.google.com/search?q=penetrant+crack&client=firefox-b-d&sxsrf=ALeKk02HuVJ_jT9cGeG6FhBRuXLXB3wHQw:1599992634672&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi4v4eF9eXrAhUM6RoKHYGJD_AQ_AUoAXoECAwQAw&biw=1920&bih=977
Das ist ja mal umfassend gezeigt , vielen Dank !!
: )
Qual produto você utilizou para limpeza,?
Just water,and a kitchen degreaser.
What’s the die and powder?
The brand or the principle of operation ?
michaelovitch brand
@@slowpoke96Z28
"Jelt"
A bunch of others do it.
Wow as a Colombian drug lord your skill with a razor blade could come in quite handy. Please feel free to contact me if you are ever in Bogota.
Caramba !
You cant use a paralle across the pre-combustion chambers as they are intentionally left proud of the head, if your decking the head, you knock these out, then skim the head, put them back in, then back the cutting/grinding head off and skim the pre-combustion chambers. Not many know about this or even bother to do it! As for the cam rocking torque the head back down with no valves and see if it still rocks. Another easy test is using rubber matt and plate with head bolts cover all water ways use a compressor fitting in thermostat mounting, if it hisses its leaking!
Depends. Some stick up and some don’t.
Vw ones don’t , but to cut a new surface it’s best to use the block grinder and not the normal milling machine.
And you only cutting enough off to give a clean surface, if it’s warped don’t bother you’ll have scrap.
@@MrTheHillfolk You wouldn't grind the head to just clean it. If you look carefully, he realised the pre combustion camber was causing the feeler to slide under more than when he placed the parallel between the cambers. Used to do alot of recon head work for a fair few garage contracts including bmw,ford,vauxhall,vw as it was beyond there scope. Quite a few expressed that flat heads didnt require skiming as it would add extra to pass on to customer. Only serverly warped heads where they had boiled it bad were scraped, most were salvagable, we did odd repairs that nobody else would like bucket sleeve replacements, where the buckets were forced out the side of its locating hole from the cam belt/chain snapping on rare casting heads like early e-types, cosworths. Funnily enough it was a Mr Hill that taught me alot.
chris
I was always against messing with vw heads because nobody can do them right around here.
That kind of changed once I started working in a shop.
I built up a 1.6td in my spare time, and some idiot used a ton of copper spray gasket on a previous repair, and didn’t do a very nice cleaning job.
They scratched the crap out of it.
The head surface couldn’t be cleaned up any other way.
The reason for using the block grinder is because the prechambers are flush.
It was only a few thousandths, once it was clean we stopped.
Hello !! You can tall me what is paint name .?
It's a penetrant dye,and the other is a developer.
I think that I know why the cam isn't seating right.
That head should have been overheated previously and the head warped. The remove the head and the machine shop didn't do a good job. They should have clamped down the head onto a straight base and put it in the oven to straighten it up. Then, machine it, whatever it is needed to be done.
That's the right way.
I think there is a bad camshaft bearing and that is why the cam rocked.
@@cleaner10399 no, it is not.
He put the straight on the cam seats, without any bearing and the head it's warped.
One part is confusing: the Dog and Ball Test. Is the dog supposed to bring the ball on a good head, or a bad one?
It's confusing yes,the best is to try yourself for best results.
I tried and didn't get consistent results,the dog is pointing at the chicken in the oven,so i thought maybe the method isn't right.
Will that method work on steel heads?
Yes,and on any metal as i know.
More videos of the d24 please!
I have something on the head gasket in a hard drive ,but i don't have the car anymore.
oh..why
Best time to make videos is when a neighbours are sanding their floorboards.
were do i buy these sprays online?
Just google that ,i don't know where you live :
www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHBF_frFR797FR797&biw=1920&bih=975&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=QYp2XPnUNcyalwS2_YCACQ&q=penetrating+dye+crack+&oq=penetrating+dye+crack+&gs_l=img.3...2386.7484..8273...0.0..0.141.698.4j3......1....1..gws-wiz-img.BVjuFgAHwxA
You need the penetrating dye,and the developer.
6 cilynder Diesel. Model, car, year?
Volvo 240, 740, 940 VW lT series.
@@michaelovitch thanks
@@paulonking1
: )
don't waste your time and money on trying to salvage your old alloy head if you're going to rebuild your engine, better and cheaper in the long run to get a new head complete with valves and camshaft,
Great ways to save getting burnt next time.
Dog died one week later. Cancer from all those chemicals. The guy died the following week. My lungs hurt just from watching. At 8:14 the guy says hmmm ( not sure what language). Wonder what he commented on ! A man of few words but he loved spraying toxic chemicals !
Очень интересный тест на трещины и зазоры там, где их быть не должно. Спасибо
Thanks : )
Пенетрант нужно тщательно вымывать с контролируемой поверхности, особенно с такой шероховатостью (>Ra12.5). В Вашем случае достаточно было удалить краситель с поверхности контроля под слабой струей воды со шланга, подсушить и промыть проблемные места еще раз (или несколько раз). На просушенной контролируемой поверхности, следы красителя (MR 68) не должны наблюдаться. Какой смысл наносить проявитель (MR 70) по красной поверхности? Вы же не забор перекрашиваете!
в комплекте с пенетрантом идет очиститель для контролируемой поверхности, им и удаляют с поверхности лишний пенетрант.
@@drcr6233 , я исходил из того, что очиститель отсутствует. Мой работодатель, к примеру, жлоб и экономит на всем. Пользуюсь остатками былой роскоши.
Thank you for the translation!
: )
It's hard to detect cracks with some of those surface defects, but it's a good idea :-D.
Not sure about the word "Controlling", checking a used engine head perhaps.
Was the floor dye a hint to us? :-).
Now the karcher is fixed that dye should vanish.
Thank you for the grammar : )
I corrected the title.
When you have a crack,it's really visible,well dark red and defined.
Yes,a hint ,so you don't make a mess like me lol
Hey i may be english, but i'm not perfect lol.
Just an ordinary man, a bit daft and addicted to drinking tea :-D
You could have used many words, like inspecting or testing for, detecting.
i did watch the other video too, i've always found it interesting that some of the words in your captions look so close to english, and other languages seem to have very similar spellings.
I think we must have stolen some of your words ha ha :-D.
@@zx8401ztv
We robbed each others a bunch of words over time lol
I think i never heard something else than a "week end" to define the last two days of the week lol
I've asked to my mom,and she neither,she had no definition for this concept of those two days off.
We have latin roots for sure and weird words here and there from a bit everybody ,like "zero" from the Arabs for example.
I had never thought about that before, it's so common and only for the two days lol.
You could reverse it and say "The end of the week" but that is longer and "Weekend" works fine :-D.
Another thing that we borrowed from you, "The magic roundabout" or originally " Le Manège enchanté".
it was redubbed by eric thompson using different stories, i loved the series as a child :-D.
The dog doogal just made me laugh, shuffled around with no visable legs.
Loverly animation :-D
@@zx8401ztv
Pollux is the dog's name here : )
Hey you didn't use the recommended Prussian blue
It's to mark metallic parts,to scribe them.
Here you need to get the liquid penetrate in cracks,its particle size is different to allow this penetration.
To do that you need Alizarin Crimson,wich i used here.
@@michaelovitch i was just joking about the Prussian blue i already know you can use different colour to find cracks😁😁
@@bobross6677 ua-cam.com/video/R7Y3izMFPbM/v-deo.html
Don't you remember Mr Ross ?
@@michaelovitch 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 yeah i remember
What are you doing just have some money down ? get it Pressure Tested and re-skimmed and the valve reground 😂😂😂 job done right first time
Cringed a bit with the sandpaper. I usually see scotchbrite being used. Personally I would use a power washer but nobody outside of my country ever seems to.
Wet sanding with 600 grain paper will only remove the gasket material,it barely remove some clearcoat on a car body,so it's not a problem on an aluminium head : )
Power washer is a good thing, i used a garden hose for my last head,too lazy to install the power washer lol
Pretty sure that the head has to be torqued to the block to make the "rocking cam" test accurate.
Correct.
But it's a good clue nevertheless.
You are not supposed to have play on a new head freshly machined,and can have some on a used used not torqued yet.
It should be minimal however.
Great video
Thanks !
Who else clicked because of the red paint
At 5:45 looks like a crime scene cleanup.
i love that dog, so cute
Thumbs up for the dog!
one can straighten heads its not common as it could be it just not doing it one can build there own rig to do it a little heat n effort can go a long way
dan, why did you not use a Lage Plastic container and dunk the head in :) that 's what I do.
I do machine work what the hell are you doing
I don't do machine works, and what the Hell is this?
I think he may just have a crack IN HIS HEAD:-)
I wish I did machine work . . . wait a minute is that sand paper and a razor blade, what the hell.
I also do mechanic work abd i can see in comment u r a bnana mechanic
@@kennethsolomon7233 Yeah, uses a straight edge 1 micron over the length but before testing, sands the thing by HAND putting 3 micron variances in the flatness.
Sorry, major fail.
10:12 reminds me of a minion 🤪
Well, he used some cool spray stuff, but, I don't think I learned anything.
There's multiple videos on the use of this stuff in English. The spray leaks into cracks and then you wipe it off then the last can (developer) bring it out darker. There's a degrease at the start and another can of stuff you spray on the rag as you wipe it off. Some type of dye cleaner. I think a search for dye crack test should give you a better idea.
Penetrate Testing is done very bad.....no good cleaning between the dye and the powder....some areas are "overwashed" some are badly washed.....no info at all.....i´m an instructor for NDT including PT.....not a good job on this head !
I was about to say that... He cleaned it the wrong way... you dont directly apply cleaner to the metal, you spray it on a soft dry cloth and then clear the surface with it, otherwise, you'll just clean the penetrating liquid from the crack.
NEVER SAND A HEAD SURFACE WITH YOUR HAND AND PAPER SAND. WHY DONT USE A FLAT SURFACE LIKE A BLOCK???
With water and soap,it does nearly nothing,you can do that no problem.
You can see machining traces from the factory still under the soot ,in the combustion areas,while i used it there.
5:40 how to clean a crime scene 😄
Incorrect procedure for removing dye penetrant!
Why?
Konstantin M
1. Always use a lint free cloth
2. Washing the dye off also washes it out of cracks.
3. Water can dilute the dye and not allow the developer to work properly.
@@Wolf_man_has_nardsThanks!
leave it to the pro's mate you made a big enough mess just looking for cracks. Bassnsane is right if your planning to let a machine shop rip you off milling the head make sure they line bore the cam journals too
5:54 Gas leak
[ dog ] big balls you better clean that - she going to huff and puff - you know that fart stink
That dye test is wrong.1 clean with a degreaser 2 spray dye 3 wet a rag and wipe off 4 spray the activator
Mate this colour contrast red penetrant dye like can be wiped with solvent on rag or water washed with very low pressure stream of droplets before drying as per all ISO level testing standards. Could have got the background a lot cleaner to help sensitivity of detection though. Would have paid to test all sides of block too esp. any changes in section or stiffener areas. For high level of test a UV penetrant system and blacklight is used for inspection.
Can u delete the part off the mess
De que motor é esse cabeçote?
Volvo d24.
Is it a BMW inline 6 head?
A volvo inline 6
They are really similar : )
2v per, intake and exhaust on the same side... shameful. Well at least it's not OHV like a Jeep 4.0.
Or just take it to an engineering shop
it is not a video about going to engineering shop , that banana man could do it
Its better to decide if its worth it or not, BEFORE taking it to an engineering shop
отличный метод проверки на трещины и дефекты
: )
Idk but why so many dislike in this video ? somebody please explain it.
I have to say I've spend 10 minutes from my life for nothing.
No real determination or speck perimeters .
So you learnt nothing from this but the only test he didn't do was a pressurized air leak test because his dye test done it anyway. This was pretty much every home test you could do on a head to check it.
НАГАР ХОРОШО ОТМЫВАЕТ ДИМЕКСИД .У НАС В АПТЕКАХ ПРОДАЮТ .ЛЕКАРСТВО
Put on two head gaskets. And it will be sound out.......
9:10 good deal
No problem there,just a surface defect.
Like said ,a crack would be full of dye.
red dye must not be cleaned or dryed with compressed air, never.
why?