Chinese Diesel Heater upgrade with EGR cooler
Вставка
- Опубліковано 10 гру 2021
- We replaced our workshop heater with an Autoterm 4k heater, and added an EGR cooler for more heat!
For info: exhaust temperature after egr was around 100 degrees and the increase in temperature after the radiator was about 18
degrees, up to 31 degrees.
That was really interesting thank you.
I have a Chinese diesel heater to fit my new workshop so I’m now going to look at doing this.
At first I was thinking what the hell is he going to do with this and then when you explained that you were reclaiming the lost heat from the exhaust I was like that's what I would have wanted to do. Great idea
This is a FANTASTIC setup. I never could understand why these diesel heaters don't run much like water heaters in that they produce so much wasted heat out the tailpipe (Exhaust).
A heat exchanger is great solution to not only capture that wasted heat energy, but also provide warm water that could be used for all sorts of uses.
This would also work very well to heat up your oil / coolant in the winter on your car to help aid the block heater in colder climates.
Running it on Kerosene would also yield some benefit in colder climates as well to start the heater and get it up to Temperature faster.
Not to mention lower wear and tear on the engine if you have something like a pre-oiler.
wait til you learn that they can burn straight used vegetable oil you get from a restaurant, just needs to be filtered. you put the vegetable oil in another tank, use a shutoff valve to keep it off for startup and shutdown. when the unit's running hot on diesel, flip the valve so you're burning oil. flip it back to diesel before shutting off to keep the heater clean. if you're lucky you may find a source of free heating fuel in your town.
Very interesting! Id been wondering why no one had tried this and then this popped up. Thanks again 👍
I've done the same, although not a dramatic impact, it is FREE heat. It did a great job heating my hot tub
Free?
@@stephenrude763 I'd be questioning the hot tub bit!
By having the EGR outside you're already losing 50% of the heat. I use a similar heater when winter camping, but I have 1 metre of the exhaust EGR for heating water,and the silencer inside the tent. The second silencer outside the tent is warm to the touch and can easily hold your hand on it for as long as you like. So most of the heat ends up inside the tent.tested it last month when it was minus 2c at night and in the tent it was 21c and I used 2.5 litres of diesel in 8 hours overnight.
Thanks for the comment! Where am I losing 50% of the heat? I have literally 40mm of exhaust before it goes into the EGR-I don’t want to risk having exhaust joints inside a building for obvious reasons.
@@bobilvans4205 maybe put some good insulation on the egr cooler and i guess you could see an increase in water temperature and efficiancy of ths set up.
the silencer is not gas-tight and will vent out the combustion products and kill you, it must not be in any space that communicates with occupied areas at all! Careful. Several deaths on boats already from this problem.
@@douglundy5755 I use gun gum on all the exhaust joints to properly seal them . My heater is mainly used in a tent and I use a carbon monoxide alarm when the heater is operating. No issues so far.
@@fuzzybobbles oh good work..
Bearings for the fan are 625z simple to fit
You should try using the natural flow of the heat to rise up and pull cold water from the bottom and you might not need to use your pump. Hot water comes in on the top cold water leaves on the bottom
This is valid but pumping does make it more efficient
I remember reading somewhere about a guy making an exhaust gas to air exchanger for one of these by running something like a 4 foot length of pipe that he'd covered in fins down inside a larger pipe, then blowing air up the outer pipe with a PC fan. He never put energy reclamation figures in the writeup, but said that with this thing installed he got a lot of extra heat, and could just about keep his hand in the flow at the exhaust outlet without it being "Painfully hot".
I can't remember much more than that though. It could have been that much cooler because he might have had 20 foot of uninsulated corrugated pipe either side of it, or it might really have been scavenging a significant amount of heat from the waste gas...... I dunno either way, but it was an interesting idea.
You're the only one I've seen with this idea, I'm about to try using an intercooler to act as a radiator to capture the exhaust heat, I'll let you know how it goes. I've got my heater and the intercooler ordered, should be in soon.
exhaust gasses are usually more corrosive than intercoolers are designed for, it could work for a while maybe.
dont do it exhaust is way more hotter than any intercooler can handle.... get an egr
if anyone wants a cheap super simple way to extract heat from the exhaust, just buy a pack of scotch bright stainless steel scrubbers. You can expand them from the middle and slip them onto the exhaust pipe. They have a ton of surface area and conduct heat from the pipe really well. they work pretty well already by passive heating, but you can add a fan to help a little. You can buy a 16 pack for $10. Thats all you need.
A Russian guy has calculated that on full these 5kw heaters produce an exhaust at 210c + and an energy of 1.5kw on full - the thing to allow for is condensate - it will drip acidic water
Yes he has basically made a condensing oil boiler with all the sulphurous acidic goodness that implies...
Not strictly an EGR in the true sense but a good vid anyhow. I subscribed.
Can I add suggestion?
I used a 20w 12v water pump but ran it via a voltage control. I then could adjust the flow of water, that way it gave the water more chance to collect the heat. I tried it at full speed at 13.5v and at 10v and I got a better result at slower speed through the EGR. Instead of cooling the egr, it collected more heat and quicker. The potentiometer was only a few quid from ebay
Interesting-isn’t the point to cool the egr? The more you cool it the more heat you reclaim. If the water is running slowly then I think it would be less efficient. I think having a bigger differential of heat on the send and return pipes gives the illusion of more efficiency but I wanted them to be as close as possible.
Also I use brushless pumps so they won’t respond to changes in voltage.
Run the water pump through a PWM at slower speed to allow heat exchange to take place.
Yes, I did this with a few gutter elbows to make a heat extraction muff, or you could just take a heat exch baffle from a gas furnace which would do air to air beautifully, no water needed. I pulled the EG temp down about 50F and added 50F to the burner air intake. But only operate it on lower settings so as not to burn up the device by feeding its own heat back into it. (which it very easily will!)
Nice idea. If you put the heat exchanger bellow the water reservoir, the water will circulate naturally using the siphon principle. No electric pump (and associated noise), no forced water flow.
Agreed but I wanted high flow for maximum efficiency.
@@bobilvans4205 , by consuming some extra energy, you decrease the efficiency. However, I understand your point.
@@danielmusat597 the small pump is 6 watts and I think I would get much more than 6 watts of extra heat so I think it pays for itself. No science or testing behind that, just a hunch.
@@bobilvans4205 Totally agree with you! If you need to remove the heat from the water fast, your solution is perfect. BTW, did you think using the exhaust gas to heat up the floor? Just gas involved, no transfer to water or anything like this. Personally, I would do both but I have no real possibility.
I would use thermosyphon too - there's only 1.5Kw heat available so it won't overwhelm the unit
I dig it and I'll be doing this.
Don't forget antifreeze in the circuit:-)
they make furnaces fired by gas, oil and even wood that heats up a glycol solution (antifreeze) and runs it through a coil like your set up
I just bought 5meters of the exhust tube, coiled it tightly into a vertical "spring" and put a usb fan at the bottom, blowing up through the coiled exhuast and it cooled the exhuast like 75degreesC and the USB fan is like 2 watts
sounds like a good idea, you could extend the coil longer
Just don't exhaust the output gasses then you can become 100 percent efficient. lol two ways I liked that were cheap and efficient was make a thermal battery inside something like a 55 gallon drum run the exhaust to the bottom and an outlet on top or do it using sand and it will continue outputting heat for like a day!
Glad I found your channel / video.. on the subject of Diesel Heaters and making some crazy scary sounds.... yet still heating and running for the past week.. and it isn't getting any better but is it getting worse !!!!!
Is the workshop insulated, that is where the energy savings are.
One thing to consider is that the cooler the exhaust, the longer it'll stay low to the ground, which can increase exhaust exposure
This is true but this setup is ok outside of a building.
@@bobilvans4205 no soot buildup yet? I've been wanting to catch the exhaust heat but so many say it clogs up the exhaust and the acidity of the condensation corrodes the exhaust piping. How's your experience so far..it looks like you've had it going for about a year.
It seems rather overcomplicated for the heat that you gain. I just purchased a 3-metre length of the original (shorter length) stainless exhaust pipe, zigzagged it in the shape of a heated towel rail then out through the wall. Job's a gud un 👍
I look forward to seeing your efficiency calculations. Would be interesting to see. I didn’t want the exhaust inside for obvious reasons. I also like tinkering.
The Chinese fan motor usually needs needs new bearings and brushes after running so long and the fan and motors are all simular so don't disgard it just upgrade those Chinese bearings to nice reputable ones works for me had mine nearly five years now
Yeah I will, I had the Autoterm anyway and I’ve got other plans for the Chinese model so it wasn’t just that it was knackered. Also the Autoterm kicks out a bit more heat.
£12 for a replacement motor and fan assembly. I have a box of spare parts for mine, so when winter camping in a tent I'm covered if something does fail.
@@bobilvans4205 Not being a smartarse mate, but the autoterm heater is just a rebranded generic Chinese heater, with a couple of mods.
@@stuartcotterill9475 I can assure you they’re not! Completely different in every way. Used to be made in Russia but now mane in the EU in Latvia.
@@bobilvans4205 planar heaters you mean? They used to import bodies from China but made all the other components themselves. Still made in Russia, Latvia is just a distribution hub under the autoterm/advers brand to get around sanctions lol
Insulation is needed around ALL of your water lines. Pool noodles would be perfect for these lines. A wrap of rock wool around the exchanger as well as all of the air lines going from and to the garage will preserve you heat from loss.
This is an interesting idea, every little bit of BTU's that you can capture is a plus.
You said the very thing I was going to say. You got to love that rock wool.
EGR cooler my ass, this a moonshine vapor condenser. You don't trick me so easily... :D :D :D :D
The bearings can be replaced!
Hi. Great vid, so thanks for making it 😁
BUT... could you put in the discretion which EGR you used & maybe it's exhaust size, it would help me for sure! ALSO....... how hot is the exhaust pipe after the EGR, ie, how efficient is it & would a slightly bigger one work better???
Mike
Be that little bit greener by replacing the bearings, not the heater. Mispronounced Adventures channel shows how in his video entitled 2000 hours. He used new Japanese 625zz bearings from EZO.
i was thinking of doing this to but then i just routed the exhaust into my house boiler. Some heat in the boiler warms the chimney a bit and improves air circulation in the house...
do you have a part number for the egr or the automobile it came off?
It was just an eBay special I’m afraid
1:17 Runs very well on 100% HVO. What you use here is a heat exchanger, EGR is something else entirely.
This is an EGR cooler. Not a valve.
@@bobilvans4205 oh I understand. The part is a component from a exhaust gas recirculation system known as a EGR cooler that you repurpose as a heat exchanger for your diesel heater.
Add it to a water heater and have the rad. To help remove heat after the water in the water heater is at temp
There seems to be too much heat lost to the exhaust, According to your needs you could make a hot water system for tea/coffee or for local or remote air heating by radiators.
So I use these diesel heaters for my camper that I live in. I am looking for a way to heat hot water via the exhaust heat. Not sure yet how tho
Just put some Japanese bearings in the Chinese heater. Two years is about the service interval of the heaters no matter what the brand, though if they are tuned they can do pretty well.
Trying to find 1 of these heat exchangers, where did you get it or how did you search for it. Thanks. Great video.
Just search for Egr cooler
If the pump speed is too high, the water is flowing through the system so fast that it simply doesn't have time to absorb a lot of heat, or transfer that heat into the radiator.
This is why you're seeing low differences between the intake/outlet temps of the radiator. That's not a good thing, from 38.8 to 40.9, you're only transferring ~2'C into the air stream.
By bringing the pump speed down, you can bring the water temperature up until it is close to boiling ~80-85'C is good. This means that your radiator is now getting hot enough, so it is much easier for it to transfer that heat into the intake air stream. You'll need a variable speed water pump for that, with a way to govern that speed against temperature rises.
Not sure I agree. The aim is to reduce the temperature of the air coming out of the exhaust as much as possible. The colder it is, the more energy has been transferred. By running the pump slower you increase the exhaust temperature which isn’t good. The key is the amount of energy that has been transferred, not the temperature.
@@bobilvans4205 It may seem counter-intuitive but hear me out.
You want the EGR cooler to absorb as much heat out of the exhaust gas as possible, to do that, the water (your heat transfer medium in this case) needs to spend as much time as possible inside the EGR cooler so that it can absorb that heat. A high flow rate of water would be fine if you had a very long or large EGR cooler, but there's no space here for that with a small cooler, so the pump rate needs to be reduced to give the water enough time.
The reverse is true for the small radiator, slowing the flow of water through it gives the water enough time to transfer it's heat into the cores of the radiator, where the air stream can carry it away.
This comes from experience of racing engines, where we tried various combinations of high-flow radiators and high-output water pumps only to find that what _seemed_ like the best combination (high-flow water pump impeller with a 3-core high-flow radiator) actually made the engines run significantly hotter, to the point where one of them literally seized from overheating even though the coolant temperatures weren't above ordinary. The coolant was passing through the engines so fast, it could barely pick up any of the heat from the cylinders, so what arrived at the radiator was a mixture of warm-hot slush that only became a homogenous temperature when it arrived in the radiator header tank. Dropping the water pump impeller back to a standard size dramatically improved the overall cooling and allowed the 3-core radiator to do it's job.
Funnily enough but I just had a thought, you could do away with the whole water transfer setup all together and make a long coil of pipe inside a can, or one that loops back and forth like a direct heat exchanger. Running exhaust gas through that would directly transfer exhaust heat into the incoming air stream far more efficiently because you're no longer having to work with the limitations of water boiling off.
@@bobilvans4205Yes, I agree. Recover the wasted energy in the exhaust gases. Given your data as presented you recovered around 50 btu/min (6.5 liters/min) with a delta of 2 ½ ⁰... Given your heaters energy input is about 200 btu/min I'd say that was good progress. Measurements of delta T across the EGR would be beneficial.
I've had 2 of these Diesel heaters for around 7 years now and have purchased a auxiliary automotive heater to do the very same. All I need now is the EGR cooler.
Wouldn't it be easier, cheaper and perhaps more efficient simply to run a much longer segment of exhaust pipe inside the house (before exiting outside) with a radiant reflector behind it directed towards the area of occupancy? And perhaps have a small electric fan blowing on it to further extract thermal energy before exiting the exhaust outside?
Possibly. Maybe a future video!
are you heating outside air ? if your intake air is warm fom the shop the heater output temps are much higher
I wonder if you could add a small underfloor heater this way in a van. You can buy kits with tubing and mats pretty cheap, but I'm not sure how you'd get the air out of such a system.
Yeah you could do with a header tank although I’d be worried about being able to moderate the temperature enough to keep it below boiling in the exchanger. Those exhausts get pretty hot.
I just ran the exhaust underneath my van. No co at all, checked several times. My floor is aluminum and you can easily walk barefoot in winter with it just pointed near the floor. With this setup, holy crap. Could easily heat a floor. It melted through the incoming fuel line once at the end of the exhaust, so I'm sure it'll have enough to do a floor. You may need a draft fan at the end of your run or it won't burn right.
Condensation? Do you plan to keep it in egr cooler?
Hi
I’ve been watching your video and thinking about doing something similar. Can you tell me where you got the heater matrix and built in fan shown in the bench. Thanks
Matrix was a pc cooling radiator and fan.
Is there a link or product names please for all i need. Also u r a legend
I’ve tried installing an egr (off a Mazda 6), managed to get a 300x600 radiator up to 54 degrees but found after a week or so it started to block the egr? did you lean out the mixture on the cdh settings?
It’s an Autoterm but it’s been running flat out all winter (8 hours a day, 20 days per month) with no issues. Maybe your egr is more restrictive?
You would think an EGR from a diesel wouldn't be as restricted..Also a regular auto radiator wouldn't work as well because the flues end in a common area in the side tanks instead of following a certain path or channels..I'm thinking of scaling this up..Like a full size torpedo diesel/kerosene/something that deals with waste oil better...with a EGR from a Detroit Diesel DD15 liter (Mercedes OM574 I think it's referred to in Europe)..Or maybe 2 of the same EGR coolers..I like your take on getting the most from it if you're gonna burn the shit anyway..Now Im thinking of using the after treatment system from the same junk trucks..DPF filters to zero NOx...The next green..ish energy..Lol.. You've created a monster..Naw..I'm going to bed 😆
I presume you will insulate the pipeing
Lots of electricity being used why not have a sealed longer exhaust in the inside to give radiant heat ? .
Late to the game I know. but I like your video. I am about to purchase one of these heaters for my Cabin. I want to use fresh air from outside instead of recirculating air as its stuffy and often full or sawdust and crap. But that will mean very cold air intake sometimes.
My thought here was to use a slightly larger air intake pipe and route the exhaust pipe down through the air intake pipe. Try to preheat the air a little before it goes through the heat exchanger. Will of course make sure the air intake then extends away from the exhaust to avoid gassing my self. does this sound like a reasonable idea? any pitfalls you can see?
kinda like the water heating idea you have heat but with no additional pump or radiator or fan.
You could buy a heat exchanger and pump air from the inside through one side and fresh air the other connected to the intake. This way your still protected from the burning fumes and you are preheating the air in the intake for effiecency. You could use the exhaust as the heat source as well.
It's the other way around cold water always comes in at the bottom and hot water out of the top
if its not pressurized system when it comes to your water circuit i think Thermosiphon would do job without needing pump i see pump here as a waste of energy and pretty sure you can go without it :)
Are you using just water or a blend of water and antifreeze since the motor is outside?
Just water but adding some antifreeze wouldn’t be a bad idea.
You need the unit inside, especially the exhaust bit, there are a few avenues you could go down, you only need the last bit of the exhaust outside, you could make a steel enclosure, another use is a exhaust box with a heat exchanger from a combi (stainles) inside and have the end exhaust vent through this with a diffuser pipe then vent later, condensation trap required, the output of the water to rads, or have a heat pipe inside that blows the heated air, or heat veins around the pipe again isolated but has a collector tank which is circulated .
Last thing I wanted was to have the heater exhaust inside. The Autoterm seal is pretty good especially with a bit of sealant but wouldn’t want to risk it.
Should use it to preheat the fuel
This is good stuff.
Have perhaps considered to se a pipe-in-pipe exhaust like condenser boilers do? It could preheat the burner intake and recover more exhaust heat.
I’ve been trying to run the Chinese heater on used cooking oil, no fossil fuel. Still working on preventing carbon building up.
How do you clean out the build up ?
@@glennnelson7917 Yeah well, so far I need to open it up and burn it out with a blow torch or hammer it w. a screw driver. Not the ideal solution. Hence I tried injector cleaner additive and also running the heater on full power regularly.
I am sure you gave it some thought, why did you choose to have the water enter at the tailpipe and travel towards the heater?
It’s more efficient going that way. Then the water is heated by the hottest gas before it exits the egr cooler. If it was the other way round then the water wouldn’t be heated as efficiently as the difference between water and air temperature is smaller.
@@bobilvans4205 I appreciate you answering that question. I've looked on US Ebay for heat exchanger like yours . Perhaps it's called something else here as I'm not finding it. I'd like to use one to make hot water in my camper
@@64maxpower that part is an EGR Cooler. They're very common on diesel engines. You are probably not still looking for one but maybe this will help someone else!
@holysirsalad I am. I still live in my RV. I love it so much that I'll always live in a camper/RV/tiny house. I am at peace living like this
@@64maxpower Glad to hear it! Cheers
you got a link to the water pump
The 'R' in EGR probably doesn't stand for recirculation in this case. Exhaust heat recovery, EHR probably a better description
They’re called exhaust gas recirculating valve coolers. These are used in vehicles-the name is from the automotive application rather than what I was doing with them.
@@bobilvans4205 Ah that makes sense. You'd probably net much higher efficiency gains by feeding heater air from inside, instead of constantly heating outside air and loosing energy blowing air out through building envelope leaks.
Added benefit, heater motor won't be fighting trying to pressurise the space, might free up some fan power for pulling through your recovery radiator. Once running maybe can you tune the air/fuel mix to keep temps in check
@@Username-qx9gk yep, the heater does suck in air from the building and return it to the building.
@@bobilvans4205 Oh my bad, I missed that, watched a bunch of these videos and heating outside air is a common theme :)
You'd think they spec the fan and motor to deal with restriction of not ideal web of RV heat ducting, and that chamber temps would automatically be kept within spec no?
@@Username-qx9gk yep that’s how the Autoterm’s work. No need to faff around with settings.
Obviously it it needs to exhaust to the outside of your building
Replace the bearings. Gheeze!
So you gather heat from exhaust and put that heat to the intake of heater?
Exactly. Raises intake air by a few degrees.
@@bobilvans4205 isnt there more losses that way? 🤔
@@regun2434 I did it because I don’t need an extra fan. Can’t see any downside personally.
why not use the egr to warm up the intake air so it would not take as much diesel to reach the desired temperature?
I think that’s what I’m doing?!
@@bobilvans4205 yes... but meant heating up the intake air of the diesel heater rather then the water... I'm not an expert so it might not be a good idea...
But the hotter the intake air the less the density.
@@UQRXD i guess lower air density means the diesel won't burn properly?
Heating the combustion air going into the unit would be great. Hotter air generally leads to a hotter burn which means more complete and cleaner combustion. Would be a good way to extract any remaining heat after the EGR cooler heats the water with much lower risk of melting things.
Okay.. Well done. Like the idea and plan to do one as well.. But for mobile use... and stationary use... so it will be mobile when I am.. and stable.. well kinda when I am. So can we discus the God awful noises and where and why they come... from !!! ???
Nice video, do you have an ebay link for this item please.
I don’t, it’s a second hand item
measure the exhaust temperature
ah man. you didnt test how hot the air was coming through the little radiator
Here is some food for thought . When you say dinosaurs turned to oil, or fossil fuel. Most oil is found two to three times the depth that fossil are found . So it’s not truly Dino oil or fossil fuels
You might be right-I’m an engineer not a palaeontologist!
@@bobilvans4205 imagine just how many Dino’s there would have to have been to make the billions of barrels of oil we pump daily in the world. Something doesn’t add up . Or human body’s could be made into oil products instead of decaying into dust
your fuel isn't from a 'FOSSIL' its 'ABIOTIC'... made within the earth from heat and pressure!
They are called "FOSSIL fuels, you can try and be as technical about it as you like, but ultimately you are taking carbon that was locked up in the ground, burning it and releasing it into the atmosphere as CO2
Formed heat pressure lack of oxygen etc , but formed from dead life matter, plant and animal, animals being mainly marine organisms and plant being mainly marine plankton , so yes, fossilised ex living matter
Non sense. I come from the oil industry. It's produced by the earth. How did plant/animal matter get 32,000 ft below sea level/grade 😅 The average depth of a oil well. There is even a oil closer to the surface. But riddle me this Batman. How did plant and animal matter get 32,000 feet below grade. The Earth produces it It's a natural resource just like wood. Stop buying into the nonsense bullshit story of it being dead dinosaurs. Which once again, is complete nonsense. Most of what you believe is bullshit. When it comes to timelines and history. We've been lied too.
Yawn 🥱
@@billybobwombat2231wrong. Oil is the same as copper. Lead. Water. Wood
It is a resource.
Fossil fuel is a falsafied term taught to us .
Google it man. We all figured this out 15 years ago when the arabs uploaded videos in the desert of oil. Rivers , lakes, ponds of oil. Your whole life is a lie. Better teach yourself
My guy, if efficiency is the goal, then PUT THE BURNER AND EGR INSIDE YOUR SHOP. Pipe the intake & exhaust outside.
With the burner outside, your heater is pulling veey cold air for heating, rather than re-circulating heated air inside the room. Tehe
Did you see huge radiators that are heated by exhaust gases? Your egr heater is very weak.
dude, oil Isn't a fossil fuel and it was never a dinosaur. SMH
National Geographic begs to differ! education.nationalgeographic.org/resource/fossil-fuels
would me much easier to run the exhaust back in the shop thru a big old steel radiator and back out
no mess no fuss easy efficient heating
So, u gonna sell a kit for this ?
Probably not, although you can get most parts either from our website or eBay.
Lindebeigh!
Wouldn’t it make more sense to run the exhaust gas through a aluminium radiator
I don’t think so, no. But not stopping anyone else doing it!
"Air-to-air" heat exchanger would be simpler but a break would result in carbon monoxide leak rather than water
Don't take this harsh by any means please: 0.52 we need to get the exhaust/waste heat recovery/~~recirculation~~ "uh," you got stuck because we all get stuck. I want the terms to be more precise so it's easier to search and find info plus one bro, new YT channel made an epic fail because of this terminology glitch.
EGR exhaust gas recirculation routes exhaust to the intake to be re-burnt. You CANNOT do this or you will burn out the motor or melt the impellor. It relies on cold air for cooling.
This is a discussion about "waste heat" recovery from exhaust. Which is indeed what you've got and I have watched a bit ahead. These heaters seem to be gaining a lot of popularity and community, I hope we can all learn some cool modifications.
I’m not quite sure what you mean. The device I’m using (EGR cooler) is for cooling exhaust gasses on vehicles, I’m not doing that on this heater, all the exhaust gasses stay outside. Instead I’m raising the inlet air to the heater by a few degrees (from about 5 to 15) to use the heat usefully.
It's not an EGR cooler it's a heat exchanger
i think you are missing a trick.. why not just push the exhaust into the radiator then vent the other end of the radiator outside ?
NOTE" I noticed your fuel line.. outside.. where it enters the unit to be burned.. You may want to insulate that.. the cold as you know isn't a friend of diesel ... at low temps...
We actually burn kerosene which is good down to minus forty-ish. It’s not that cold here.
Fossil fuels don't come from dinosaurs 😂 one of the biggest lies of our generation
Your version 2 will be better
It looks like you're heating outside air. In cold weather you'd get more heat by having the heater inside and recycling inside air.
We’re pulling air in from the building then recirculating it into the building. The heater is outside.
Read somewhere it's actually algae and not dinosaurs or was it both definitely algae
What, the Chinese lie????
The energy in exhaust gases (mainly CO2,CO, NOx, SO2 and some H2O) from oil is quite low. That is due to the low water vapour content. Large power plants never use systems to recover heat from exhaust gases using fossil fuel . They have made the calculations. I promise you. In Bio fuel plants however, the water content of the fuel you put in the furnace could be up to 60% and that will generate a lot of water vapour that you want to recover as a lot of energy has been spent to produce it. (Water requires a lot of energy to go from liquid to gas) It is probably not worth the money to recover heat from fossil fuel exhaust gases.
Large power plants do recover their exhaust heat. The part of a power station boiler that does it is called the economiser.
Never heard about combined cycle power plants? They recover energy from gas turbine exhaust to produce steam for a steam turbine. Maybe they've done their calculations as well 🤓
Power plants are entirely about recovering heat from the exhaust, that's literally how a boiler works. Any steam plant faces a point of diminishing returns as the fluid working temperature is so high. However, some plants use economizers to preheat combustion air. Exhaust gas economizers are also very common on large ships, taking waste engine heat to produce hot water and sometimes for heating.
FYI fossil fuel is a misnomer, the earth makes oil naturally.
😂 there is no such thing as a fossil fuel stop saying that you sound stupid😂
Oil and gas do not come from fossils. The Earth makes them using heat and pressure.
I will mention that the point of the video wasn’t really about the origin of fossil fuels, it’s about heat reclamation from exhaust gases.
You really don't know what FGR is do you? Exhaust gas recirculation, where exhaust gas is fed back into the intake of a car engine to reduce emissions, nothing to do with cooling the exhaust.
Thanks for your helpful comment. I do know what an EGR is. I am repurposing an EGR cooler from a vehicle to regain some waste heat from the exhaust gas from the heater. I am not feeding exhaust gasses back into the intake of the heater. I’m sorry if that was not clear!
You did all that to offset the buring of fossil fuels. Do you know how much diesel you would have to burn in that little heater to off set the manufacturing of that tank, pump, radiator, hoses, heat exchanger and misc other stuff. Not to mention the electricity your using for the extra pump and fan...
Hmm. Everything was either second hand or scrap, or from a previous test project. I probably added about 10-15% efficiency to the heater. So if I burn 100 litres then I’d save 15 litres which is the equivalent of around £20 here. So that’s not bad. I’d have a return on investment of about 300 litres, and not burned 45 litres into the bargain.
The most energy intensive part of the setup is probably the radiator made of aluminium, which takes about 200 megajoules of electrical energy per kilo to refine from ore. (recycled from old pop cans is much less) One litre of diesel would yield about 10 megajoules of electricity when burnt in a generator. So if we say the radiator is made of 1kg of virgin aluminium, that works out around 20 litres of diesel.
@@connerlabs The radiators are copper but that’s really interesting, thanks for the input! I guess it is similar for copper?
I love to burn fossil fuels!!
I love to generate free energy from solar but I do burn fossil fuels as the tech isn’t up to it 24/7. Enjoy your burning!
your exhaust looks like it was pointed right at a water line
Can you afford diesel thus season?😢