Hobby Cheating 160 - How to Paint True Metallic Bronze
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- Опубліковано 2 лис 2018
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through my methods for painting True Metallic Bronze. We cover how to create shadows and highlights appropriate for this unusual metal. Hope you enjoy.
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
Instagram: VincentVenturella - Ігри
I recently discovered that, when left on a dryer (on the dryer side of wet) wet palette to sit and get separated a bit and a bit dryer, the Vallejo Metal Color will look even better if used as a dry brushing, it seems that the reduction in medium from sitting and drying makes it somehow smoother yet than it is out the bottle. Worth further experimentation.
Interesting - I've tended to use their game colour metalics for dry brushing as superb as the Metal Colour are for regular painting I didn't get on with them for dry brushing. Might try your trick.
Finally tried out Vallejo Metal Color after watching Vince for years and I can absolutely confirm that there is nothing better on the market imo. Don't even use my old tried and true leadbelcher and retributor armor anymore for gold or gunmetal. Have tried others as well.. So smooth and such good coverage for it being so dang thin. Thankyou for the constant recommendation Vince has changed painting metals entirely. I don't much care for NMM so I really try to get as great of a result out of TMM and these are just perfect. Though I'd give anything for a larger range of non steel/silver tones. This here is gonna help me paint High Marshal Helbrechts armor and for that you sir are a gentleman and a scholar. Cheers mate
It's Saturday night, I've got snacks and a cup of tea, and I'm about to watch another Vince video! Cheers, everyone!
Excellent, well today was certainly a day for content. :)
Great video as always. Playing around with trying to get an aged bronze, rather than polished bronze effect I found mixing in Army Painter Dark Wood speed paint to the Vallejo Metal colour copper gave a good result - good colour and metallic without being too shiny.
Suggestion for a Hobby Cheating in the future: Masking (for airbrushing)
You and your content are a seemingly never ending source of motivation.
Greetings from Germany
That is a great suggestion and I can't believe I haven't done it already, especially as there are so many interesting ways to mask. Consider it added.
This was really helpful advice when doing my Tiger Eyes titans for adeptus titanicus (the yellow ones with the black flames). Moving from gold trim to a darker bronze really helped to delineate the armour panels - describing gold as a base colour of yellow really put a pin on why it wasn't working as well. So thanks again - super useful!
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
hey vince i got those vallejo metal colours they are outstanding. ive learnt so much off of your channel
Excellent, they are so wonderful and I truly can't understand why people use any other metals. :)
Thanks for all your help.
Incredibly useful, thank you!
I'm a big fan of Vallejo Model Air's metallics (the silvers at least, the others seem a bit too thin) but definitely going to try metal Color after this! Great video!
Yeah, they are a revelation, I promise. There is nothing else like them in Acrylics.
Awesome timing. Just bought some Vallejo metal colors and the inktensity set.
If you could do a tutorial about display TMM? When I'm at a competition and look especially on the historical miniatures or busts they do awesome TMM with lots of color nuances and interesting structuring. This would be much appreciated!
Thanks a lot for all the very helpful videos.
That sounds like an awesome idea for a video, I will add it to the list.
This is a good video for me, since I started a Skaven army not too long ago. Plus I’m thinking of turning the dnd models I don’t use often for games into bronze statues so that’ll be fun
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
I love that idea, not always bronze but even as stone or even gold, silver, bronze etc. Really great idea thank you.
Great timing as I have a LOTR Troll that was going to get a bronze shield but I always have issues with bronze highlights as they always end up looking more like brass (then I faff about for ages)
So hopefully his shield will take less time than usual.
Many thanks (in advance.)
Awesome, happy to help as always sir. :)
I should have known better but I thought you messed that one up.It looked like you were going to wind up with a two-tone shield, but it must have been the camera angle. The stills at the end really show what you were talking about. Great job..
Yep, it's stark for a moment, but then, the final glazes smooth it out. :)
As always, great video. I'm going to use your technique very soon I think! As a side note:I know composition is a very delicate and difficult subject to explain, but most of the time is what makes a piece looks amazing instead of good. Do you plan on making any video about it in the future?
That's a great idea for a video. I will add it to the list. I had done a past video on composition, so check that out, but it might be good to also discuss that with some great examples of real stand-outs.
Thx Vince for another great video! I love your tutorials. If i have a question, i will always find the answer on your channel. But i have another question. Will it be useful if i will use burnt umber and black for shadows? Or better to use contrast?
Nope, that is just fine, those colors would work as well. You'll see me do similar in other videos as well. :)
Awesome!!! Question though: If i don't have the Pale Burnt Metal, can i sub either Dark Aluminum or Duraluminum, or would those be too bright?
Dark Aluminum might work, I would recommend silver as the back up if you have that.
I’m tempted to try and do a entire figures armour using this technique. I’m sure for the shields it’ll work fine but i don’t know if it’s to complicated for the main body of a figure.
Go for it!
Thumbs up great vid as usual, Vince. I am going to share this with a buddy, he's about to do a whole bunch of bronze so I think this will be appriciated!
I'm a bit confused. How come the shadow is on the upper portion of the shield? Is this some shining metal rule that I am now aware of?
Excellent, happy to help. So metal, assuming that it's relatively flat or that area is flat vis a vis the light (perpendicular) the darkest area will be toward the top and the light will collect along the bottom of the surface.
Vince, would you say that FW Ink Burnt Umber would be a good substitute for the Metalsmith Ore?
Absolutely. I use FW ink as well all the time.
Great video, as usual, i think you missing only brass at this point for full metallic series.
I'll get to that one at some point.
Hey Vince. Do you avoid using a wet palette when working with metallic paints?
Absolutely. Metal paint pollutes your wet palette and you want to avoid getting them too wet as they break up easily.
I'm curious how you would zenithal highlight this with an airbrush?
I would use the same colors you see here, but I would have a little reflected shadow as well. Use some Vallejo Metal color as the highlight and some black ink in the low light.
Yay, I was becoming worried about painting Skitarii since they have some copper/bronze parts and I failed to find Badger Metalsmith paints in Europe, but Vallejo and Scale 75 are both Spanish companies and their paints are easier to find.
Awesome, between this and the fast base coat from earlier with red, you should be all set. :)
Barbell Bodyworks (barwellbodyworks-shop.com) stock them
Just recently found your channel, and had a question about zenithal highlighting. Can you get a good highlight with a rattle can? I don't have space for an air compressor living in a tiny apartment. Thank you for any help and can give and for the videos.
Yep, I don't do it much, but in the case of Rattle cans, you generally want to start black or dark grey and prime normally. Then take a white (skip the mid-grey) and pull the can WAY back from your minis and just lightly dust them over 2-3 passes from above. It takes a minute to get the hang of it, but it's totally doable.
thanks for the advice. i will definitely give it some practice.
Thanks a lot Vince. If you were trying to paint brass would you mix up more gold then copper? Then maybe use more of a yellow ink then brown?
Yep, you could also do a more red brass by keeping the copper but then using the yellow to tint so it ends up a little orange. I love all these metals in that spectrum because between the base metals and the pollution from light reflections, you can work in so many wonderful colors.
Thanks for the reply. If you’re looking for more video ideas I was thinking parchment. I was kind of struggling with the purity seals and parchment on my blood angels. Thanks for all the great work
What do you think if you wanted to go more brass like. Brass is made from Copper and Zinc. I was thinking about using copper and gold?
Yep, for brass, I use 3-1-1 Copper, Gold, Pale Burnt Metal basically. Add a little more PBM to desaturate.
did you get your warcolours shades yet? I got them but I'm having difficulties using them.
Yeah I would like to see more individual videos on their range, too. They are really affordable paints.
Yes I did and I have been experimenting. I totally understand why you are having challenges, they are very different to use than normal shades. I have been playing with them in different ways and will have a few run down in the next few weeks. I would likely have it sooner, but my travel schedule has been ridiculous.
@@VinceVenturella no rush. thank you for the awesome content!
a got a bronze paint too , but it very orange, quite birght, i wonder can i darken it with Vellejo steel, or black/sepia /brown ink direct onto the paint
Sure, I think that would work well. I would also check out the latest video I did, I do some bronzish color in there and one of those methods might be what you are looking for.
Hi Vince, just been doing some more testing. It seems like the recipe works best with the old formula. If i use the new formula copper, the mix splits and doesnt mixing properly. But if i use the old copper everything is great. I've tried extensive mixes but it seems like the colours split on the model.
Have you personally found any solutions with the new formula vallejos?
Cheers
I'll have to play with the new mix, I finally got my hands on some.
Kinda late for the party here, how do Vallejo Inks work with shading Vallejo metals? Since I have several of those inks and can get them fairly easily, I'm curious.
Yep, work great, I use them all the time.
Do I need to thin down the metallic paints? Or is it okay straight from the pot? I am using GW metallics
In general, you want to avoid it, That being said, give a look into Vallejo Metal Color if you can find them, better coverage and higher shine. With the GW metallics, try to stick to the base metallics for your first application (Leadbelcher and Retributor armor stuff). You want to push the paint around on the miniature.
Would the Ghost Tints work as a replacement for the ore colors?
Sure, they aren't quite as easy to work with I have found, especially with brush, but they will work in a pinch.
Does the primer colour matter here? Say I want it to be more red-ish, should I go with a red primer? Or would it be a extremely small difference?
Because of the opacity of the paint, it won't really matter. ;)
What about the Green Stuff World's Bronze pigment as a starting base, did you try that? would you suggest it?
Didn't exist at the time, but I like the bronze pigment a lot. :)
tangentially related could you recall where you got that helmet on the mini? I can't find basic knight head bits to save my life.
I wish I could, but I actually got the mini second hand, so it just came to me that way, but I always liked the helm and the mini.
I use Perry Miniatures Agincourt and War of the Roses plastic boxes. Nearly 40 minis in plastic for all sorts of bits for 20 quid.
Hey Vincr, nice video. How are the Valloje metals colors compaired to the valejo game color metalics?
Totally different world. There is nothing like Vallejo Metal Colors, they are a wholly different product and far beyond anything else, including the rest of Vallejo metals. The big difference is the size of the pigment, the consistency when painting, the finish looking more like a true metal, They are worth checking out.
@@VinceVenturella Hehe it is christmass eve and I'm hoping for a little miracle. They are one my chrismass list. 😁
Thank you Vince
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
@@VinceVenturella I totaly didnt pick up the metal smith paints from your review alone....gonna give this a go when I next have chance to paint anything,
Do you have a tutorial that covers verdigris and oxidation? I've searched but my google-fu is apparently lacking.
You know, I don't think I've ever done a video specifically on it, which is crazy. I will have to add that to the list and get it going soon.
Vince Venturella That's great. Thanks. Would you be willing to cover both tabletop standard in addition to your usual high standard? Specifically using Vallejo special effects and Citadel technical products if you have them? If you can't I understand.
Do they still make the badger metalsmith paints? They sound really interesting but I can't find them at all online.
I'm not sure they still make them, but I would ay at this point we have paints that have surpassed them.
@VinceVenturella yeah thats true. Vallejo metal colours is really the superior product out of them all.
Whaat? First. BTW, Just got my shipment of Warcolour. Looking forward to trying it out. Do you know the difference between they're clear color and glazes?
The transparent paint is still very normal gel paint just blended to be dark and have a high translucence. The Glazes are brighter colors but naturally set with the thinness to be used straight from the pot as a glaze. I don't find much use for the transparents, but I use the glaze paints all the time (I have a full review of them) - they are wonderful to tint things and smooth blends.
Can you please do a video on Bronze Verdigris!?
Sure, I will add it to the list. :)
will FW inks work in place of the ores?
Yep, absolutely, some Sepia and/or a little bit of Payne's Grey will be wonderful.
Vallejo Bronze 70.998
What's the problem with this? not that smooth by basic but works fine with water
Basically, it just fails at being good metal paint. Watering metals makes them less reflective and thin. It reduces coverage and hurts luster. It also has very large low-grade pigment (pigment for metals is graded based on how fine the pigment is ground and what material is used).
Effectively, if you look at the metal after it's applied, you will actually be able to see the pigment, this then stops later glazing like you see here as the more bumpy and uneven the surface, the less likely you are to be able to properly glaze it.
Basically, once you use something like Vallejo Metal Color, or Liquid Gold or Alclad 2, you will see the difference, it's night and day.
So if you can’t thin most metallic paints with water, with what does one thin them?
Well, you can thin Vallejo Metal Color and it's one of the best products you can buy. That being said, if you don't have that, using medium (thinner, glaze medium) as that will keep the metal pigment more evenly dispersed.
@@VinceVenturella , I am much obliged for advice.
Can you recommend a brush type or set for tmm? The cheap nylon brushes from the craft store cant seem to survive an armor plate without shredding. Maybe boar?
Yeah, they tear up brushes. The Vallejo Metal Color are a little less damaging, but they still kill it over time. I really just get bulk cheap brushes and just toss them, I have never found a perfect solution of something that can really withstand it.
Hey Vince how are these paints as far as using a AB
They go through an airbrush like a dream.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks Vince and thank you for your videos and taking the time to reply I really appreciate it.
How would you highlight a purple bronze, like Warplock bronze from GW? I am using it in combination with gold armor on Chaos champion and I am having a horrible time. I do believe I should not have used the two colors now but I am going to keep working it to see if I can fix it.
Honestly, I would just mix in some silver carefully into the mix until I had like a 90/10 ratio of silver to bronze.
have you actually ever explained in one of your videos why you call it hobby cheating? I really don't see how cheating is involved...
regarding metallic colors: have you ever tried the Golden Colors Metallics or Schmincke Metallic acrylics (latter is a german brand, no idea if they export to the U.S.)?
Yep, I have a few of the golden colors, the pigment is just too large and that is mainly because the paint was never intended for such small surfaces.
As to the Cheating, it's a bit of a tongue in cheek comment that I try to show you all the options, how to save time and get the same results in whatever ways you want.
fabulous paints that come in bottles with possibly the worst, most wasteful nib ever. Recommend re-bottling these ones immediately
Shadows on the top: doesn't the sun usually shine from above, from the sky? 😄
Gee, they must have got it all wrong at art school. What a waste of four years of my life. Duh.
Nice bronze colour and technique👍, but you do need to get out in the sunlight 😉.
(Hint: the sun is that bright orb above your head. It's what creates highlights and shadows.)
Rick
You kinda sound a bit dickish, but I understand it comes from a lack of knowledge. So I recommend another video that explains this in layman terms, and while I am linking to the exact time for this explanation I recommend watching the whole video too. ua-cam.com/video/fbcwG6wUuQc/v-deo.html
Thanks for that link, I didn't think Vince was wrong but I was wondering about it!