Got it, got it, got it! You the man! Thats what I needed to know. And... if you have the motor advanced 10 degrees as in this video, when you drop the distributor in and line it up with number 1 on the housing, it'll be 10 degrees advanced when you fire the motor. Add the 24 degrees of distributor advance (as what is built into my personal distributor) and it would be on 34 degrees total timing. Then... simply check with the timing light. Thank you, thank you!
You're always crystal clear with your explanations, and that is why I watch your videos and have subscribed. Sure miss the S-10 BBC build, but I understand it was not feasible for you.
Got hooked on your channel when I ran across the cam selection playlist, great stuff and we thank you for it. I fool with Y Block Ford’s right much and always like it when I can install the distributor on a run stand because access can be difficult on hoods with hinges at the rear. Good tip too on bumping the engine to get the distributor gear to mesh with the camshaft gear. One of the things that fools guys on the Y Block is that the firing order goes counter clockwise ... gets a lot of ‘em at the start 😂
Thank you sir for this vid, spent all day tracking a new one down. And have put in off time twice now lol, once advanced, once restarted. The key bumping trick is genius, if the engine wasn't so hot from me running it advanced for 10 I'd do it right now lol. Confident I'll be back on the road tomorrow with this video👍👍👍
nearly 50 years ago a friend who "knew how" volunteered to install my new dual point at midnight after work , under car wash bay lights on a cold night . he didn't know the bump the starter trick . we nearly froze .
Watching this video make me enjoy running solid state programable ignition all the more. No pissing about with weights, vac advance, rotor phasing, corroded contacts, spider 🕸 Web of plug wires... Go I hate distributors and contact ignition systems. Give me a coil per plug any day
After you bump the engine to get the distr😂tor to drop over the oil pump shaft, you should line up the timing marks ( 10 degrees before top dead center ) to make sure the rotor is facing to the number one spark plug wire terminal.
Great video, on my 350 chev my #1 is near the vacuum canister can I change that to the way yours is ? Lining up my rotor and #1 cyl like the way you did. Thanks.
Is the rotor under constant electrical charge creating spark when it connects with each cylinder tab on the cap or does the rotor pulse as it reaches each tab to send spark to the plugs?
Great info as always. Thank you I do have a question my distributor cap when clipped on seems loose to me? While its fully clipped on the base i can pull it up 3/8 to 1/2 inch away from the base? Will this cause a no start or very bad breaking up issue? Any advise?
Great vid bud.question,for a 383 because of the longer stroke would I still put distributor in with rotor pointing at #1? the car runs very good, But I pulled motor to do gaskets and at top dead center my rotor is pointing at number 2. I remember the guy I bought it from said make sure I mark exactly we're timing and distributor is, Because it was a pain to get timing right. Would this Be because the 383 has a longer stroke?
I have a question ! I am thinking about purchasing a name brand, Blue Print Engine. Don't know if you heard of them. But if you have, Would you buy an engine from them or not ?
Hello, I follow you since years and years, and today please, I need to ask you a question about my situation. I hope you can help me. Anyway I appreciate all your contents and i think you are really the best teacher ever. You know what are you talking about. I have rebuilt a 1967 - chevy 327 small journal. Everything is stock, except the Camshaft, spring and lifters. Fit double humps heads with big valves, code 38172919. With a 10.3 CR. The camshaft is a Lunati cam with code, 10120102LK with advertised duration 290int/300exh and 465/488 lift, 112 lobe separations. Now The engine won't start with less than 28° base timing advance( vacuum connect). To keep it idling I have to unscrew the idle screw about 3 full turns out. ( quadrajet ) . If I try to lower the advance while the engine is running at idle, he will shut down.I can accelerate and keep it live, but he will not keep the idle. I also connect the vacuum gauge, and I read 13 to 14 in/hg. idling. The question is: is it normal? Looking on the web many people says that it is normal. But to be hones looks weird to me....I'm afraid to have the timing chain little bit out...I don't know. Thank you very much, can't wait for your next video.
@@Myvintageiron7512 Today I opened the timing chain cover to check everything again. And It is correct. I have the 2 dots in line close, and if I go on TDC compression stroke I got the 2 dots in line but the camshaft's dot is point to 12 o clock. The balance is correct. Carb is totally rebuild. I have change almost everything in this engine except the distributor and carb. The only things that I did not do, were the valves guide. here In Italy they are not able to do it. And they were out of specs. Another weird things is the compression. I should have 150PSI but in reality i got 105 or 110. on 10.2:1Cr why this engine start only at 30° base timing advance? My doubt is that maybe crank's key is out " from factory" but it mach the tdc anyway....is driving me crazy.
@@thejustintimeyeah Over tightened valves can cause low compression/rough running engine . How many turns of preload did you put on ? If you used the spin method on the pushrods they might have been over tightened .
Finally someone who knows all the things required, and can articulate them to us about dropping a dizzy.well done fella,cheers
Got it, got it, got it! You the man! Thats what I needed to know. And... if you have the motor advanced 10 degrees as in this video, when you drop the distributor in and line it up with number 1 on the housing, it'll be 10 degrees advanced when you fire the motor. Add the 24 degrees of distributor advance (as what is built into my personal distributor) and it would be on 34 degrees total timing. Then... simply check with the timing light. Thank you, thank you!
Yep
You're always crystal clear with your explanations, and that is why I watch your videos and have subscribed. Sure miss the S-10 BBC build, but I understand it was not feasible for you.
EXCELLENT video on how to do this!! Thank you sir!! Glad you're back!!
Got hooked on your channel when I ran across the cam selection playlist, great stuff and we thank you for it. I fool with Y Block Ford’s right much and always like it when I can install the distributor on a run stand because access can be difficult on hoods with hinges at the rear. Good tip too on bumping the engine to get the distributor gear to mesh with the camshaft gear. One of the things that fools guys on the Y Block is that the firing order goes counter clockwise ... gets a lot of ‘em at the start 😂
Thank you sir for this vid, spent all day tracking a new one down. And have put in off time twice now lol, once advanced, once restarted. The key bumping trick is genius, if the engine wasn't so hot from me running it advanced for 10 I'd do it right now lol. Confident I'll be back on the road tomorrow with this video👍👍👍
nearly 50 years ago a friend who "knew how" volunteered to install my new dual point at midnight after work , under car wash bay lights on a cold night . he didn't know the bump the starter trick . we nearly froze .
yeah I did it to but not on the compression stroke!
Your the man Kerry , I have two engines for you to rebuild
This content comes at the perfect time for me as I'm working to restore my 1969 Impala. You've got a like & sub from me. Cheers!
Watching this video make me enjoy running solid state programable ignition all the more. No pissing about with weights, vac advance, rotor phasing, corroded contacts, spider 🕸 Web of plug wires...
Go I hate distributors and contact ignition systems. Give me a coil per plug any day
Thanks 👍 nice illustration appreciate you
This information is simply invaluable!!! Thank you sir very much. 😎👍🏻👍🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Hey thanks, nice visual to go along with your explanation. Well done!!!
Glad you liked it!
Thank you soo much!! This is an awesome video!
Glad it was helpful!
After you bump the engine to get the distr😂tor to drop over the oil pump shaft, you should line up the timing marks ( 10 degrees before top dead center ) to make sure the rotor is facing to the number one spark plug wire terminal.
Awesome video thanks ❤❤
excellent job, TY
Great video, on my 350 chev my #1 is near the vacuum canister can I change that to the way yours is ? Lining up my rotor and #1 cyl like the way you did. Thanks.
Is the rotor under constant electrical charge creating spark when it connects with each cylinder tab on the cap or does the rotor pulse as it reaches each tab to send spark to the plugs?
Long live the small block chevy
Great info as always. Thank you I do have a question my distributor cap when clipped on seems loose to me? While its fully clipped on the base i can pull it up 3/8 to 1/2 inch away from the base? Will this cause a no start or very bad breaking up issue? Any advise?
Yes that's a problem Id replace it
Great vid bud.question,for a 383 because of the longer stroke would I still put distributor in with rotor pointing at #1? the car runs very good, But I pulled motor to do gaskets and at top dead center my rotor is pointing at number 2. I remember the guy I bought it from said make sure I mark exactly we're timing and distributor is, Because it was a pain to get timing right. Would this Be because the 383 has a longer stroke?
The timing is exactly the same process the linger stroke does not have any effect on it
Gotcha.thanks
I have a question ! I am thinking about purchasing a name brand, Blue Print Engine. Don't know if you heard of them. But if you have, Would you buy an engine from them or not ?
Blueprint builds a decant engine
This goes for the big block chevy also
Yes
What's the deal with putting it on 10 degrees before when installing distributor?
That is just one way of doing it you could bit it on zero but remember your cylinder will fire around 10 degrees BTDC
@Myvintageiron7512 I appreciate it that's what I was thinking. I enjoy ur videos glad ur back.
Hello, I follow you since years and years, and today please, I need to ask you a question about my situation. I hope you can help me. Anyway I appreciate all your contents and i think you are really the best teacher ever. You know what are you talking about. I have rebuilt a 1967 - chevy 327 small journal. Everything is stock, except the Camshaft, spring and lifters. Fit double humps heads with big valves, code 38172919. With a 10.3 CR. The camshaft is a Lunati cam with code, 10120102LK with advertised duration 290int/300exh and 465/488 lift, 112 lobe separations. Now The engine won't start with less than 28° base timing advance( vacuum connect). To keep it idling I have to unscrew the idle screw about 3 full turns out. ( quadrajet ) . If I try to lower the advance while the engine is running at idle, he will shut down.I can accelerate and keep it live, but he will not keep the idle. I also connect the vacuum gauge, and I read 13 to 14 in/hg. idling. The question is: is it normal? Looking on the web many people says that it is normal. But to be hones looks weird to me....I'm afraid to have the timing chain little bit out...I don't know. Thank you very much, can't wait for your next video.
it sounds like a timing issue are you sure your timing mark on your balance is right
is the carb new or used?
@@Myvintageiron7512 Today I opened the timing chain cover to check everything again. And It is correct. I have the 2 dots in line close, and if I go on TDC compression stroke I got the 2 dots in line but the camshaft's dot is point to 12 o clock. The balance is correct. Carb is totally rebuild. I have change almost everything in this engine except the distributor and carb. The only things that I did not do, were the valves guide. here In Italy they are not able to do it. And they were out of specs. Another weird things is the compression. I should have 150PSI but in reality i got 105 or 110. on 10.2:1Cr
why this engine start only at 30° base timing advance? My doubt is that maybe crank's key is out " from factory" but it mach the tdc anyway....is driving me crazy.
@@thejustintimeyeah When you checked the compression did you have the throttle and choke open the whole way ?
@@44special9 yes. totally open.
@@thejustintimeyeah Over tightened valves can cause low compression/rough running engine . How many turns of preload did you put on ? If you used the spin method on the pushrods they might have been over tightened .
😢😢😢😢😢
It doesn’t take a genius to replace
compression stroke 10* right! not power
TDC Compression and TDC Power are the same thing