No Start Diagnosis FASTTEC Method Pt2
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- Part 2 of 3- DIY guide on how to find out why your car won't start- checking fuel, spark, timing, compression, exhaust.
Part 3 is here: • No Start Diagnosis FAS...
Part 1 is here: • No Start Diagnosis FAS...
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love your instruction. Im a 70 yr old lady but i understand a lot of it. Enjoy all of it. Thanks
Awesome!!! Usually women and the elderly are stereotyped as being the most commonly taken advantage of in auto repaiur scams and here you are upsetting the demographics!!
You've totally demystified car mechanics to me! And I may not have the tools to do most of these tests but at least I can now interview potential car mechanics before hiring them. Thank you so much!!
9 minutes of black dead air at the end of this one, final render mistake. Great video. That's a lot of information for someone to take in however in the interest of being comprehensive and you're doing it right. Thumbs up.
The 9 minutes of dead air at end of video is for "reflective silence"
On my GM vehicles, the computer won't send fuel unless it detects spark, so in this case it seems like you'd want to check for spark first. Your videos are great -- thank you for the imparting your vast knowledge on the masses. They have been a big help to me. I hope more mechanics start watching your videos.
Your method of explaining is second to none. You are definitely a Professor of Mechanical Engineering. I love it.
Well, as you have read, Iam definitely not a mechanic. Lol. Everyone says it’s my fuel pump.
Man this is like a textbook in video form. Brilliantly-done.
In the last few months I’ve gone from knowing nothing about mechanical workings to having a pretty solid understanding of all the components involved in the FASTTEC method.
Managed to diagnose my motor scooter and get it running again using a compression gauge. Turns out the valve clearance was just off.
Thanks for the great information.
Every time I watched one of your videos I learned a great deal of details that is hard to find elsewhere,GRACIAS!!!!!
When testing spark make sure to use a spark tester. It only takes about 2000 volts to jump the spark plug gap at normal atmospheric pressure. A tester is designed to mimic the resistance of a pressurized cylinder.
Great Video!
i have the kind you adjust to make the spark jump extreme gap what kind are you refering to that mimic pressure in a system?those light bulb type used in the beginning of this vid?
Interesting. I had been wondering why anyone bothers with a spark plug tester when you can just remove the plug and ground it. This makes sense and answers a question I had forgot that I had.
Just found your Vids.. and subscribed today... Love your teaching method.. and the fact that you explain exactly what things are and how they work.... And how and why I found your Vids... you mentioned briefly in this Vid... GM Pass-lock... I've been fighting mine for 1.5 years.. now... But this morning my truck did something out of character with its normal Pass-lock malfunction.. and that is... it was a crank no start.. which usually fires then dies.. but today... just cranked and never fired.... has never done that before... was getting fuel.. I did normal reset procedure 3 times... finally on last attempt... got it to .. fire very little a couple times.. by pumping gas pedal?.. ( Went old school ) then shut off.. did reset procedure again... and it started.. So.. to make a long comment longer... I think if you did a GM Pass-lock Video series.... It would be your most popular ever... as I know.. from scouring the net for a year n a half.. that everyone is looking for answers on this.. and theirs allot of hack vids out there..... Ohh.. and the other great thing... you use the exact same.. Volt meter as I do....lol.... which.. for me.. thats huge !!.. thanks again for the Vids...Im learning alot
This guy is the best mechanic on the web, regards from pr
You haven't seen my friend paul danner then lol- he can dance circles around me.
I don't have a car right now, but my father was a mechanic and my brother is a mechanic. I love cars. I'm not an engineer but i try to be really logical when i fix stuff. One day just come to my mind: Cars aren't magic creatures, if something is wrong should be a method to fix it or to diagnosed. I never come a cross to a logical method to diagnose a car faulty, something you can do in any car to get and starting point. I love this. This FASTTEC method is a simple way to discover where the fault could be. Is any diagram/book/web where i can investigate more in details this method? Thanks
That's a good point about more than 7 cycles to full compression, I never considered that as a diagnostic tool. It's cool that you made this diagnosis without much help from electronic diagnostics -- that seems to be increasingly uncommon.
thanks from russia you are the best mechanic
blagodarya!!
I have seen a technician in the field take a test light to direct battery ground and blow up a battery checking for spark before.
I always use a chassis ground when using the test light method.
I do not know when they started using crank sensors but back in the day, my dad bought a new Oldsmobile which would conk out while driving randomly and then after a random amount of time would start back up again. It had been brought in over five times for the same problem and was not fixed so he returned it under the New York State Lemon Law.
There was no internet and all I could do was call up every dealership in the phone book. I was given the answer by one of them and I told this to the dealer we bought it from but they failed to fix it anyway. They deserved to get the car back and lose money and every customer my father could tell the story to.
Yeah, it was a faulty crank sensor.
This is a common problem on the GM 3800 engines. I had to replace them on a Buick and a Pontiac.
the owner should have told him neighbor had same problem was clunking for months.
Chrisfix had a similar problem on his Driftstang where the timing belt tensioner was bad and the timing belt skipped a couple of teeth to create a no start. You are a talking encyclopedia and could probably talk about a spark plug for 8 hrs. Just subscribed.
Old school spark timing test, mark tdc #1 cyl. Have spark tester connected to #1 wire. Crank engine, (with timing light connected) watch for timing light to syncronize with #1 mark while observing spark event, while verifying spark at the tester.
I don’t follow- if timing light is on #1 wire why do you need the spark tester? the fact the timing light flashed means spark occured at #1.
@@SchrodingersBox Good point. I was thinking doing that to visually verify adequate spark output at the tester.
I go back all the way to the carb/distributor days and recall issues where timing was off due to the outer ring on the balancer rotating out of position so that when using a timing light, it would be set in the wrong location. I have never in well over 40 years fixing cars, seen this particular failure! Luck of the draw for you to have it happen when going over your process! Too bad you didn't have a cam/crank signal capture on this one. I think a scope is an essential tool these days though I fully realize that is not for your intended audience. Oddly enough, I know some top notch techs (can't call them mechanics anymore!) who don't have a vacuum gauge. It is still a viable tool, even with modern automobiles. BTW, a vac gauge can come in handy in judging the exhaust system when a vehicle does start. Vacuum will steadily decrease when you hold engine at higher RPM as exhaust backs up, preventing fresh air from entering the engine. Keep up the good work.
On the 90 era gm vehicles the oil pressure switch had a set of contacts that closed and enabled the fuel pump when the oil pressure reached 4 psi. This was a back up for a failed fuel pump relay. Long crank time before the engine starts would be an indication the fuel pump relay is bad. It does not shut off the fuel pump as you mentioned if the oil pressure is low.
Jim r Yes I actually recently diagnosed a similar no-start on a 99 suburban. Open oil pressure switch causing fuel shutdown.
Wow. The harmonic balancer issue is a weird one... not something you see every day.
I'll tell you man......you're an excellent teacher and are tremendous at diagnosing no start issues. The only thing is that it would be great to see a video diagnosing the same problems with a more modern, drive by wire system.....I've got a car that starts and immediately dies lol So many things controlled by the ECM
I have plenty of videos on no starts on DBW but the thing is DBW is irrelevant. FASTTEC is identical on ANY vehicle. even a lawn mower. there is no difference in working on a DBW. if you determine air is restricted you would simple check TPS same as you would check IAC on a cable throttle.
@@SchrodingersBox Thanks for the reply. I'll search them out!! The thing I was more referring to is the ECM having so much of a say in all of the areas you referred to in your video...for instance if the PPS is malfunctioning the throttle actuator wont get proper signal from ECM to open the valve...then that also leads to a lack of fuel being sent due to no signal and possibly lack of spark due to no signal...just so many things that rely on multiple signals, or only one little signal. Just so hard to diagnose without a professional scan tool. After looking again at the title of the video I realize this is more of an in depth question that should have been asked on your website so I apologize. Your videos are fantastic man! Some of the best ive seen. Keep up the excellent work!
Excellent video, thanks and keep them coming man
The spark section, I'd have liked to have been shown the 'too many no spark variables. I know nothing about cars but a recent EGR issue with my own car has me intrigued. 👍
very informative and well explained. Good on you.
Are you sure you are not professional tech, so much knowledge , thank you
So nice of you to say! but last I checked I am definitely not a professional tech. Its just my hobby
@@SchrodingersBox So being a professional tech is your hobby then right? ha ha! I got a Volvo that no one can fix if your up for it. 2005 S80 2.9L twin turbo. Had 8 wires stripped and making contact w/each other on each side of the break when I bought it. 4 went to MAF and 4 went to turbo boost control solenoid. Wiring has been repaired with a new length of wire thats soldered and heat shrunk. Replaced the sensors mentioned. Car only runs with MAF unplugged, otherwise starts and stalls out suddenly when its plugged in. Throws codes for both sensors and more. Im thinking the ECU is bad. No visual damage when looking inside the ECU though, and cleaned contacts at ECU and CEM but no joy. Temp gauge on dash not working, fan goes full blast upon startup. Volvo won’t work on it, says they only work on the newer models. I told them the newer models shouldn’t be needing work now should they. Any take on what it might be? my scanner is an Autel MX808. Have vida dice but no subscription.
I believe the Volvos use a digital MAF. What is the frequency showing when it’s plugged in? I would start there.
Brilliant!
May be I was not paying attention but after finding fuel, air, spark and trying to ascertain timing, what was the logical reasoning to look at the harmonic balancer? Were any steps skipped? Did you already knew from prior experience what you were going to find? Since the car was not starting, I am suspecting even having a timing light strobbing would not have helped to find if the timing had slipped. As far as OBD-II data is concerned, does the computer know that the pick up signal is completely off? I thought timing advance displayed under OBD-II PID was the commanded value by the ECU and not an input to it. Let's face it, when you get a no start condition, very few mechanics are going to put the vehicle on the lift and take off the front passengers side wheel unless they had encountered this condition and are familiar with the patten failure for that model.
I also believe that most garages would have swapped a lot of parts at customer's expense before stumbling upon the broken harmonic balancer. Or am I just too cynical with the general expertise (and honesty) attributed to the auto repair industry as a whole? Personally, I am willing to provide the smarts to the shop as long as they are honest. Nothing is more aggravating than having dishonest and incompetent shop :-(
Actually I was just following "FASTTEC" in order, came to the ignition Timing part, and was going to demonstrate the function of the crank position sensor when I noticed the balancer issue. It would probably have been one of the last things I'd have checked otherwise!
Schrodingers Box
Am I right in assuming that even fancy scanner would not have helped here? If it had a timing belt, would you have taken the top timing belt cover off first before removing the wheel?
Great video
I forgot on the last s comments on the first video I did replace the harmonic balancer it wasn't that bad just made a clunking noise like a loose timing chain
thanks for taking the time to do these 2 videos, really useful stuff. just hope it is my crankshaft sensor on my car as its starting badly.
don't hope. diagnose it. bypass the signal to ground. if you get fuel pump response the sensor is bad. Simple.
Schrodingers Box thanks, will give that a try and see if it starts, its very intermittent at the moment although fires eventually.
Hmmm... I'll try the alarm trick tomorrow as well. I have an aftermarket alarm and radio with steering wheel controls. My 5.7 engine was rebuilt and started for 2 days. Since the mechanic did the mds delete I never drove the truck until I could get a tuner to turn the mds off. Once the diablosport sport arrived I turned the mds off and drove to the gas station. Once I turned the truck off it never started again. Although it does start for a few seconds with starter fluid which led me to believe fuel related. But maybe the alarm turned the fuel off 🤔
A real troubleshooter
typical 3800 problem, bad harmonic balancer. i had to replace it on my wife's bonneville it was making noises. of course i replaced it long before it got that bad, it will make some annoying noise before it gets that bad. as far as VATS (vehicle ant-theft system) they car a pain in the ass and can leave you stranded. the VATS failed on my 89 camaro, and i had to solder a couple resistors in series in a parking lot to get the car running again. there are wires in the steering column and they break and fail. that black thing in the key is not a chip on those models but its a resistor pellet.
had a 88 3800 were it did something like this were it still ran but at idle it made a clacking noise but at speed was quite.
Wonderful video...
Great job, well made ..I mite add my dad when testing for spark.Put the spark plug in the wire grounded it and seen if it sparked thought the spark plug. sometimes plugs are bad. Then told me to never buy plugs from walmart or autozone..GC is cheap.
Thanks so much matt
hmm Blank screen for me too ... darn I was really looking forward to see Matt do his diagnostics on testing for Spark. :(
hmmm not sure what to say about that. I know for a fact 10’s of thousands have watched this video without issue. Maybe try using chrome or your mobile device?
Schrodingers Box run the FASTTEC method on this one too? Lol!
The tools u used for compression test, us it the same tools vulcanizer uses/to check tyre pressure? If yes , how do u make ut work for compression test? Thanks in advance
So I had a no start condition. I let it sit for a couple days before troubleshooting it. Well I go to start it up to see what would happen. Surprise it fires up and ran a bit rough with a plethora of white/gray smoke. It then begins running normally. I let it cool(all the way) and fired it up again, this time no smoke and it seems no problem apparent. I've also lost coolant and tested everything including now a leak down and compression test from my actual mechanic buddy(I asked you about my mystery coolant leak yesterday on part 1). So still losing coolant slowly, no start turned into starting no problem(the smoke was not sweet smelling but bitter and something I'd never smelled from a car) No oil on any plugs. I'm really lost. I feel like my burban is Schrodingers SUV. You don't know if there is a major problem unless you open it.
So what data do you have?
@@SchrodingersBox I didn't ask for data on the compression or leak down, I was told they were almost spot on considering it is a 16 year old car. Very little variance they said. I have no pressure from a combustion leak withing the coolant system. No apparent symptoms now at all. The only thing that is wrong now is the check engine which brings back an 0^2 sensor code.
The smell of the smoke was rich gas, sulfur and well, butthole.
What about basic stuff like fuel trim, timing advance, MAP and MAF voltages? Stuff that would give at least a fundamental direction to start with? Anything???
@@SchrodingersBox I am as shade tree as they come. The only precursor I had to all of this is that the voltage read well above 14 on the guage and there was a slightly hesitant start for about a week before the no start condition. Then after if apparently blew it all out of its ass the thing runs just fine? Could running it low on fuel from being broke then flooding it with 30 gallons have anything to do with it? I've wanted to say blown head gasket/cracked block for a while now except for the fact that it passes all the tests.
Looks like that harmonic balancer bolt has had an impact socket on it very recently
I've got a 2000 Xterra that's got fuel, spark, and compression. I'm thinking it's the crankshaft position sensor, everyone else is saying timing chain, but I like to go small first. When it cranks, it'll backfire as well. I did check the harmonic balancer and crankshaft pulley to make sure they wasn't free spinning. Would I be right in thinking the crankshaft position sensor?
Is this a common problem with the rubber breaking around the harmonic balancer I don't know never seen one
never seen it either. not sure if it’s common or not.
Hey Matt, I just got a 1998 ford escort LX it's a crank no start. It's not getting spark in any spark plug. I just want to know how to test the coil pack, the connectors and any relays it would connect to to make sure I test it properly. Thank you for your awesome videos
pretty simple- i would start with seeing if power or ground or signal input is missing. if power or ground is missing and fuse is good on power you would have to trace the open. if ground is missing I would complete the ground to chassis and input a signal and see if it sparks. if it does you will have to trace the open. if I putting a signal causes spark you should do a crank sensor bypass by putting the feed to the signal and seeing if that initiated spark.
I Just found your video this morning and I'm having this problem pulled cam/crank sensors did my test. I did change plugs before this problem happened but I did the spark test didn't see arching but car started without one plug in so I put plug back in and still no start. Trying to do it myself before I tow it to garage. Any information on why this is happening would be so helpful thanks..
Try something simple first like bypassing the CKPS input reference signal to the signal output and seeing if you get CKPS response in the EFI.
I have a 2005 gmc envoy. 5.3 motor. I can start first thing in morning, sometimes twice. After that just crank. If I let it set for a couple of hrs it will start???
So what is the cause of the no start? is it fuel? spark? air fuel mix? compression?
Need some basic starting foundation to go on.
Or the spark can jump to a screwdriver. Almost impossible to do if just one person.. 1:38
Could a P1259 error code (VTEC system malfunction) cause a no start for a 2nd gen Honda CRV? I’ve got fuel and air crossed off as potential issues already.
It absolutely could- if the timing is off enough then engine won’t start. I would totally start with that.
Good video Iive in Denver need help with my car help....
PM me and I'll see what I can do
Schrodingers Box my car just die and I don't know what is wrong how can I get in touch with you don't know if I can put contact info here lmk
Matt Help 7207899461
I have a 2011 ford explorer. Should I have constant 12v on the coil connector without coil hooked up? With just ignition on. Intake valves are open.
Yes you will have constant 12V to the coil feeds on all coils with KOEO.
@@SchrodingersBox what if the other 5 coils do not? They are a 2 wire connector for the coil Sorry to ask so many questions but you know what your talking about
ok on a two wire coil you will generally have the power wire from common fuse and the others wire is a ground side control. the first step is to verify this is the setup but I haven’t seen one that isn’t.
if you have several of them missing the power then you will most likely have an issue at a junction where the common wire splits off to the coils. you will need to locate that junction or connector and examine for the loss of continuity.
@@SchrodingersBox ok I will check into it deeper. I just found it odd that the coil I keep melting the secondary on and shows a misfire is the only one that reads a constant 12vdc. Thanks again. I appreciate it. Mayb I should add I was taking my reading with DMM across the harness coil plug
I was misunderstanding what you were saying..I get it now. I really appreciate your help.
GOLD!
Do you have a video on diagnosing a No Spark issue?
I am trouble shooting a 1989 Mercury Tracer for a no spark issue. It just died while driving. Timing belt &water pump replaced about 4 years ago. For the entire life of this car it ruin the distributor cap every 18 months. I just replaced it once a year and no problem. But now I'm not getting spark from the Coil. I did order & purchase the Distributor & Coil just to have them on hand. But I need to find the problem before installing parts.
I have many videos addressing this. No spark from a single coil is easy- first confirm 12V to the coil feed. Then just put an input into the signal for the coil or in case of a computerized ground side switch just manually ground the coil and if you fail to get spark the coil is bad. If it sparks you have an open ground. Check for ground side switching at the PCMusing a testing on ground.
@@SchrodingersBoxits a weird situation. It will run just fine for about 10-20 seconds and then abruptly die. Then I check for spark from the coil. I get no spark while cranking the engine, but I do get one strong blue spark when I turn the key to the off position. I can turn the key to run and then the off position and I get just one spark.
Could the No-Spark issue be caused by the ignition switch way in the steering column? It is an 89 Mercury Tracer. Probably been started a million times. But it is over $240.00 to get a new one now!
Nice...
we had a 60s stick Ford 6cyl had to push15foot would run rest.of day nostart next day no compression on any cyl.head gasket all barrier between cyl .blown.
No compression on ANY cylinder? Hardly is that likely to be a head gasket. Sounds like broken timing chain or completely blocked induction
Schrodingers Box every cylinder the barrier between cyl burnt through started hard in winter first.rpl head gasket fixed it unusual but true just chg. gasket. had appliance store we'd. push it every morning ran rest of day.
Dear Sir, I notice you still answer some comments as recently as 4 months ago so I thought I would comment. You state that you would need a very serious vacum leak before the engine fails to start but later you say that having a head gasket leak could cause a no start.Could you please elaborate on what appears to me to be a contradiction.Thank you.
no contradiction. a vacuum leak does not result in lack of compression. A head gasket always does.
Go it, thanks.
Blank screen at end.
Yeah not sure what happened there- I think that video was when I was still trying to figure out how to edit!
Quick question- What does "Hey Dave, my battery still works" mean?
It refers to a viewer who told me the battery on my DeWalt Impact would only last a year. That was over 2 years before this video was released and almost 4 years ago total and it still holds a charge for the entire weekend with no power loss.
I love Dave, but his estimate was way off lol!!
I see lol. Thanks for explaining!
FASTTEC IS BETTER THAN STAR TREK
If my compression is low could it be a valve timing issue?
Yes, well, sort of. It's a bit complicated but basically the timing being off will cause the compression to take longer to build up because there is less efficiency with the intake since the valves aren't opening and closing at the right times, however if there is no leakage in the cylinder, the compression will still eventually build up to spec. When doing a compression test I don't only consider the final reading, I also look at how many revolutions it took to get to that reading. If the car is exhibiting symptoms of bad timing and it takes say a dozen revolutions to get to max compression reading instead of say 6 or 7, I will strongly suspect valve timing.
Schrodingers Box i cranked it 6 to 7 secs and got 70 lbs. at the #3 cyl I did #3 because it was the easiest to do. Sorry to keep pestering you but I really didn't want to tear this thing down to do a timing chain and gear.
Schrodingers Box also on your check list you might want to add vacuum gauge that's old school method they tell you a lot
to you will have low vacuum if it's off one tooth
william arnold Vacuum gauge is irrelevant to an OBD2 car that is using feedback based fuel trim based adjustment. I show this in another video conclusively
2002 passat 1.8t spark no fire . Help
What data do you have?
Hello I have a daihatsu sirion the engine is cranking but it wouldn't start
Ok what is the problem? is it fuel? spark? Compression? what's your data showing?
Fuel is good the the fuel pump is good the battery is good. I ain't getting not spark the car was driving and the car just stop in the road
I change the head gasket 3 weeks the timing is good all so
If you have no spark- theree you go. Just check the powers and grounds to the primary and just make the basic diagnosis accordingly. Simple!
A good night I also the call Pat's good l test dem with a test light but when I turn the engine over no start do u feel the crankshaft sensor gone bad I checked the fuse box all the fuse is good
Anyone caught this Mechanic's name?
i am not a mechanic actually. But, my name is Matt.
i believe you forgot to name the 5vref on the list and explain a quick check.. :)
How is it possible a failed 5V reference could be a variable here?
@@SchrodingersBox if the 5v is pulled down or shorted completely there are many cars that wont start. :) scannerdanner has some very good info just search 5v ref :) Cheerz mate
Just as I thought. He skipped right past the only part that I needed! not getting any signal to coil! Have a distributor not coil on.. at a loss
See my other no start video with no spark condition where i show how to diagnose this.
Want turn over
Nice!!! This reminded me of the "What's that noise video?" from Real Fixes Real Fast except the car actually ran.
ua-cam.com/video/-bu6MrYNiRc/v-deo.html
Why was there 8 minutes of nothing? I mean I like these vids but man
Editing error.