Don't over tighten brake caliper bolts
Вставка
- Опубліковано 8 жов 2024
- Please subscribe One of the most common problems that people have when they are doing breaks is over tightening the bolts
Hope the video was helpful please like share and comment you’re also welcome to visit me on Facebook under clays AC and auto repair I hope the videos helpful have a great day!
Please subscribe !!!
Also you can follow me on clays ac and auto repair on facebook
Why should you Subscribe to my channel ? I constantly make these videos that show you how to use your tools and show the techniques that we use in our auto repair shop every day. And all it does is help me send you stuff . I do not sell your information I do not solicit you. all it does is add a couple 100 thousands of a cent to me . And it cost you Nothing ! you would only be helping me . And hopefully i was able to help you !! So please be kind and enjoy!!
⭐⭐⭐⭐If you liked the video and want to show your support, you can use any of these links to purchase ANY ITEM you normally would off of Amazon and we get a small commission with no extra cost to you! Make sure to complete orders through the links! Thank You!
DEWALT 20V Max Impact Driver Kit, 1/4-in: amzn.to/3y0vDRJ
5 Pieces Magnetic Telescoping Pick-up Tool Kit: amzn.to/3knxckI
Magnetic Screwdrivers Set with Case, Amartisan 42-piece: amzn.to/39sTSxT
CRAFTSMAN Mechanics Tools Kit with 3 Drawer Box, 216-Piece: amzn.to/3Nux6UL
ANCEL V6 PRO Bidirectional Scan Tool: amzn.to/3wRcvDy
CASOMAN Master Torx Bit Socket and External Torx Socket Set, 60-Piece Set: amzn.to/3NbWUpe
Thorstone No Spill Coolant Funnel Kit: amzn.to/3m1dADS
Plain and simple straight to the point! Thank you for not over explaining everything like 90 % of the video's on here...You rock!
GarbagemanN916 ! Amen to that.
What's wrong with over explaining? Some people need just that. Some weren't born expert engineers like most. But great video however
Thank you for taking the time on the message I love ❤️ it 🤗
👍thx
Some of these people that think they are car mechanics should either read up on this or just stay far away from their vehicle plain and simply!!!! And some think they know everything and you can't tell them anything. You are100% right on explaining what not to do and what to do the RIGHT way. Thanks for the video.
i agree spoke clearly and explained in my language what to do and what not to do. first time as a woman fixing my own vechicle. i did over tighten my bolts thank you
Finally, someone who got to the point and spoke common sense ty
I have a 1986 f150, and it has clips instead of bolts that hold the calipers to the bracket, but the reason my brakes are dragging, is that the calipers dont move back and forth...i needed a hammer to get them in...so now i think i know what to do now. Thank you so much guys!
Very true. I made that mistake several times and always replaced the bolt. I never seen one get seized though. It usually just stretches or breaks. They are usually m8 bolts and torque range from 20-25 ft/lbs many cars less.
This video helps alleviate my worry about not tightening a caliper pin bolt quite up to spec. I thought the spec on my 2016 Nissan Rogue was 22 ft-lbs (so thats' what I did) but I just re-read and now see it's 25 ft-lbs. I was going to take the wheels off an retighten to 25 but it sounds like I shouldn't worry about it?
In the theory, it’s one of them very few things that you want really tight because the pen doesn’t actually tighten anything. All you can do is break something…. But you still have to use the Loctite so the bolt doesn’t screw out.
Yup you’re right totally have done this when I was learning and seized my brake bad to the caliper ugh 🤦♀️ total pain in the you know what to get off too 😂 I should’ve watched this sooner ! Thanks for helping the rest of us noobs 🤓
my specs were about 22 lb. I tightened them down to about 37 and instead of using loctite I used an anti-seize lubricant because my back ends going to be in salt water towing a boat. what do you think?
Im subscribing this is the fastest reliable knowledge i need
Thank you for less talk and getting right to the matter that was my concern. Good video!
What happens if I accidentally overtighten it? Will it mess up the caliper? I’m just learning to work in my car so please feel free to laugh if that’s a dumb question. I just did my front brakes and I’m afraid I may have over done em.
Thank you for all your videos. You’re a godsend.
Keep a eye on it an make sure is not loose
@@the_return024 thank you for the tip. I really appreciate it!
No, you would just more than likely strip out the bolts. It wouldn’t hurt anything.. and it just makes it hard to get off and it’s on necessary to over tighten them. There’s really no pressure on them. At least there shouldn’t be unless the pins seize up. I’m sorry I missed your message earlier John I’ve been dealing with a lot of stuff but I usually try to answer everyone that I possibly can.
@@sharpcarco I really appreciate that. I’ve started doing basic stuff on my car with the help of UA-cam videos and I have a tendency to overthink things. Lol. Your channel has been super helpful. Thanks so much.
That's video make sense, thanks.
On my service manual it said only tighten 17 - 19 ft lb, I afraid it will become loose and affect the brake.... After watching this video, I know those bolt do nearly nothing at all, just holding the guide pin and it is nothing to worry about :O Besides, do you think I can use thread locker for it?
You definitely could use thread locker, I know the torque specifications on most things seem a little bit silly sometimes. And when I look things up sometimes I’m like I can’t even believe that it’s that little amount
Love the no BS straight forward approach! Liked, Subscribed and shared!
I can promise you Jamie that they’re not all that way, but I very much appreciate having you here.. as I go on further making these videos, they get really boring to make getting straight to the point and not making jokes or in your endows😂😂😂😂 I’m sorry for the future videos you might see…
Thanks for the explanation for what that does. I bought replacement calipers from TRQ and I was wondering why I could just simply pull the Caliper and the mounting bracket away from each other when I took the parts out of the box. I believe for my Buick encore the mounting bracket torque spec is only 27 foot pounds compared to 127 foot pounds for the larger piston bracket.
Large piston bracket you say is not a bracket, its the Caliper. The bracket is where you put the caliper. Not too tight.
Subscribed and liked. A 1 min video on UA-cam instead of 22 mins to explain the same thing... Thanks you!!!!
Thank you very much for your kind words Hayden I’m glad I could be of help
That bolt right there is my problem that bolt on my car just keep spinning it's not stuck it just won't come out you can spin that thing for an hour in either direction and the damn thing won't come out..... I've tried pulling it out I've tried using force and wedging it back and forth to try and pry it out.... any suggestions on what's going
on?? Much appreciated,sir thank you......yes,i made sure the sliding pin itself wasnt moveing,rotating with bolt.
Great advice. Common error.
I put in a caliper last week. Heard grinding driving down the street. Took the wheel off bolts that held slide pins came out. I went and got new bolts and tightened the crap out of them.
Thought I had a faulty caliper. Turns out I just "reefed" the slider bolts with the Milwaukee lol good video for idiots like me
Great video. Tks. Question.. would a 3/8” torque wrench be able to fit inside the wheel hub to tighten the caliper bolts and bracket of the rotor? Just curious cause of the length of the torque wrench fitting inside there. Or would I have to try to fit the torque wrench from another way? Thankyou kindly.
Extensions on the end of a torque wrench will not change the torque applied through the torque wrench.
Hope that makes sense
@@sharpcarco Tks for the reply. Appreciate it. Was just wondering as I haven’t tried yet but when I go to tighten the bolts and torque them(caliper bolt and rotor bracket bolt) would the torque wrench be able to fit inside underneath to tighten and torque them as i know it’s a pretty small tight area in there or wouldn’t only be able to use smaller wrenches to tighten and not torque them? Sorry Gonna be doing my brakes soon Tks
Well I can’t answer that question specifically about that particular vehicle because I just don’t have that type of memory and I generally will not torque them down .
Them particular bolts I tighten up as hard as I can possibly get them and I use Blue Loctite on them.
Although you have to consider the source I literally drove 1000 miles in my car and it was later jacking it up in a Lowe’s parking lot figuring out how to get a bolt to reattach my calipers…… 😂😂😂 … I think my second to last video was on that particular problem that I had and why it happened I was super tired when I installed them….
When I was in my friend's shop learning those, they did not even use a torque wrench, just use a regular 3/8 , tight it to feel nice and tight and that is it. You definitely don't need to tighten it like a mad dog!
Yeah I only said torque them down for the video. Tight is good enough
Here's how I thought about it. I used PB Blaster which I may or may not of needed and a breaker bar with proper sized socket to get all the bolts loosened and out. When it came to tightening them when finished I used the same tool and the same effort.
If robocop had brakes they would look like that. lol
Good video Clay. Thanks! If you broke or stripped your pin bolts, look up Duralast H15058. Those are replacements for my Ford Ranger. Look for a similar part that fits your vehicle. Be sure to also get some brake caliper grease. It allows the pins to slide. Regular grease is not made for high brake temperatures. As for me, I always, always use a torque wrench for parts that can cause me to crash if they fail. Amazon has beam type torque wrenches for only $12 if money is tight. The only negative is that I sometimes need to use a mirror to see the torque scale because it may be facing away. These types are very accurate so long as you never overload the beam. Treat them with care. Never use the torque wrench to remove stubborn bolts. If a bolt stutters hard coming out, it will overload the beam and cause it to yield. It is no longer calibrated. It requires heat treating the beam to recalibrate it. So, throw it out. Instead, use a long breaker bar with a pipe on the end for stubborn bolt removal. The user manuals at your local auto parts store will tell you the torque for critical bolts. For example, all torque specs are at the first page of each chapter in my Haynes manual. Before each use of the beam torque wrench, be sure the pointer is aligned with zero. This is very important. Press on the pointer to lightly bend it until it points to zero again. This does not affect the beam's calibration. You are not recalibrating it. You are not bending the beam. You are only resetting the zero point by bending the pointer. This is how they are aligned when being manufactured. Finally, torque is usually listed as ft-lb for bolts like 6mm diameter and up. Next, all torque values can be converted to each other. That means you can convert ft-lb to in-lb to the metric N-m. If your bolt is listed as ft-lb in the manual, be sure to use ft-lb on the torque wrench scale. Here's what torque means. For example , 25 ft-lb is 25 foot pounds of torque. That means you apply 25 pounds of force a distance of 1 foot from the axis of rotation. Torque is force x distance. So, if your wrench is 2 feet long, for 25ft-lb, you would apply 12.5 lbs at a distance of 2 feet away from the axis of rotation. Since 12.5 lb x 2 ft = 25 ft-lb. With that said, if you use a beam type torque wrench, you will notice it has a wobbly handle. That is because it is only calibrated if all of your hands force is going through the pin that causes the handle to wobble. When torquing, be sure the handle does not lean left or right, but instead, all the load goes through the wobble pin. With a torque wrench, you don't need to calculate the 12.5 lb and 1 ft or 2 ft. The wrench takes care of all that. Just use the scale on the wrench. For cars, I suggest a torque wrench that goes to about 150 ft-lb. Brake bolts often call for the use of thread locker as well. Some people just ballpark the torque by feel. I measure it on critical parts like front brakes because it's easy. Please, give my comment a thumbs up to let me know it is useful. If it's not useful to anyone, I'll delete it in a couple months. Good luck!
We sure do appreciate people like you thank you very much for sharing with us!. That is all very good advice have a great day god bless
I also want to say something duralast is sold at AutoZone. And my local parts store beach AutoZone prices by about half honestly I do not care for AutoZone or its parts I don’t care for their customer service I don’t care for their ability to hire competent people so I do not use any of their parts although I do appreciate you mentioning them in your post I do not care for AutoZone at all and I think your local parts store and it’s professionals do a much better job and are much more knowledgeable that’s just my personal Opinion
Super useful. Got to this video for my ford ranger also! My torque wrench over tightened it or I didn't hear the click. So, I have a stripped slide pin bolt that won't tighten down or won't loosen up. Was aiming for 25 ft pounds probably put 50 or 60, should have realized!
Thanks a lot, very helpful video. Both bolts in one side are very slightly bent. Am not sure if that’s what keeping them tight. But I have probably been tightening them a bit too much as well.
Wow I learn something new today. No wonder the caliper loose
If you over tighten it will it make the brake pads grab on to the rotor and not release it back, having an issue with my brake pad not depressing, or could it be the caliper piston seized?
Figure it out yet?
Good Vid, Simple Explanatory, Helpfull, Thanx
Thank you make it a great day around
My guy u are my true hero 😮
After replacing my hub assembly, caliper, brake lines and brakes twice thinking that was the issue came upon this video, had to use a breaker bar to loosen those bolts and right away my wheels spin freely
Thank you so much!!!!
Got it now thanks
Right to the point as well...perfect
I often yammer on about whatever it is I’m working on ,you got lucky watching this video. The problem with making short videos like this is you will get whiny people, that will say you did not tell them enough information. But thank you usually I’m very descriptive about what I’m working on.
However I keep it to the point of what I’m working on.
Hello. I ran into an issue today because I over tight the bolt which caused the caliper bracket “hole” lose. Now what should I do? Buying a new caliper bracket would be my last option.
do you use the same tighten then quarter turn methodology for caliper bolt to bracket as well? it's hard to find exact torque specs on cars so just wondering. thanks.
These bolts come with red loctite (generally) from factory, also they WILL vibrate loose if you don't tighten enough (we've seen it at work. about 2k miles after brakes were serviced, the bolt fell out and the caliper would make a loud noise when hitting bumps) . All that being said, YES please don't over-tighten them.
Just lost mine. Didn’t want to over tighten, but didn’t tighten enough.. clanking at every bump!
@@alfonsocorona1008 yeah, honestly for bracket bolts, I tighten snug and then about 1/4 turn more. Slide pin bolt just snug, maybe 1/8 turn afterward.
Just use a torque wrench and a tech manual
Hell the last caliper i bought those bolts were so tight from the factory we couldn't get them out! They are there as a guide! They do just have to be tight enough so they don't fall out! but over tight isn't going to do any harm!
Well certain models like jeeps and Chryslers use a very small whole size like six or 8 mm and they fastened to very thin metal that is mostly bolted directly to the spindle. People often over tighten them and strip them out
This doesn’t happen on most Fords or Chevys because they use a separate bracket and even the caliper bolts are usually between a 10 mm thread size or larger. So on the models it’s not as big a deal you can tighten them up as much as you want but it’s not necessary.
@@sharpcarco perfectly explained!! Hondas calipers don't move because it's a different brake system but i also have a chrysler that has play in the brake caliper that i was stressed about!! Thank you for pointing that out
Can over tightening them cause the pads to grind on the rotor?
No
What happens if you do over tighten them? My brakes are rubbing against the rotor. Is that a reason why it could be doing that? Thanks 🙏🏽🙏🏽
No, that’s probably just the dust cover take a screwdriver, stick it through the wheel and push the dust cover away from it
If anyone is worried that it will get loose so they're tempted to tighten it more, just add some medium strength threadlocker instead.
I really agree with you there that’s not a bad idea it does make them difficult come off but they generally will not ever come loose so you would use blue Loctite I don’t recommend using red
Hey Clay I have 2006 honda crv and I did exactly that. Now the caliper bolt are stuck and I acmt even take them out and they keep moving inside. Do i need to change the whole calipers now?
Well I’m not super familiar with exactly what bolts to what but whatever the bolt goes into needs to be replaced might be a caliper bracket or it could be the caliper itself sorry I don’t know off the top of my head
What about the torque value for caliper mounting bolts and do they require lock tight? Just changed mine out yesterday and they had red lock tight. No wonder it was so difficult to remove.
Yeah I can’t remember every video but I do know that dim bolts that hold the bracket to the control arm are very very very very tight and I’m fairly certain that I mentioned that in the Video darn near sure of it. I’m less sure that I said to put Loctite on them but definitely put Loctite on them this video focuses on the bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket more than the bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the control arm
I agree just recently and type it in pull down with your with your arm and shoulder and that's about it that should be around 30 foot pounds.
however foot pounds is not a pressure it is a force.
Well I’m glad you understood what I was trying to say sometimes I don’t speak correctly because I do stuff off of the cuff .
indeed, great job. i always tell DIYers remove with Battery Impact Wrench & tight with Torque Wrench\Digital Torque Monitor & dont repeat clicking\buzz sound. torquing is critical! 2136
Just had this happen to me. Lesson learned. Lol. Good thing oreilly has the bolt I need to grab in the morning. Haha.
What is ur recommendation for tightening a caliber bracket
Someone overtightened the pins so much but didn't strip the threads? That is an achievement in itself.
I’m also from Grand Rapids! But the bolts you mentioned that need to be on tight keep falling out while driving. At first I thought the caliper was faulty but this is the third time I’ve had it replaced and it’s happened again. Any input?
What kind of vehicle is it?
@@sharpcarco 2017 Dodge Durango
I don’t want to give you misinformation
There are two bolts that hold the bracket to the control arm
There are two bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket
The bolts that hold the bracket to the control arm should have Loctite on them. And be extremely tight
The other bolts holding the caliper to the bracket don’t often need Loctite and are not generally as tight as the other ones.
Essentially I’m saying put some Loctite on them tighten them down very well and they will not come out unless……….. The holes are stripped out…
Hello
I do have a question please
I think I damaged that screw and he can be tight no any more
Now he just hold a little bit
The piece that should slide freely does not slide freely, so when I go back in tomorrow, I have to figure out why. It's all lubed up so I don't even know.
Question, I have a 2014 Lexus GX 460 and accidentally broke free the bridge bolts on the front caliper. I can't seem to find torque specs to tighten them back. What would be your suggestion? Thanks.
Well if I knew the size of the bolt the actual thread and thread pitch there are indexes out there that will tell you what the average torque is for that nut and bolt so it’s not really necessary to have the actual torque reference from the manufacturer when you use that scale
@@sharpcarco ok. Well crap. Wish I would have known that before. I torqued them to 40 ft/lbs. Hopefully, that isn’t over doing it.
What can I do to loosen it up on a Tahoe 2002 I'm having trouble trying to take it off tried impact wrench and it's not can you please give me advice that way help
Put something on the end of your ratchet to make it longer to loosen the bolts up you may end up breaking the bolts off and need a new caliper bracket but most part stores have them in stock if you’re working on a domestic vehicle there’s quite a few that carry imports as well
Thank you great vid ! Love the statement at the end :)
Very helpful. Thanks for posting.
Awwwwwww man love this video thanks
What a good information thank you so much!!
If I can not get the big bolt loose that you pointed at, that a dealership over tightened on my father's 2000 Excursion 7.3 Diesel. What tricks help on that 13/16th bolt ??
You could go to the hardware store and get a Burns O-Matic torch and just sit there and hold it on the bracket for about two or three minutes and hopefully it will heat it up enough to loosen it or if you had actual torches that would definitely work hope that information is helpful
Clay Rogers I actually tried it on my f250 7.3 and I’ve had no luck I’m at the point I may have to break the whole caliber off the bolt was over tighten and may have cross threaded
Those are some sexy calipers
The bottom one has to move a bit too. My manuals say both at 35 pnds of torque. some trucks take up to 45.
Mines are stuck in there. Is it right to left or left to right
My '02 Camaro SS has a tick in the rear wheels with every revolution when driving, I suspect it's this since it happened after I swapped my rotors, pads and E-brake shoes.
My ABS system goes in and out too....
Just installed the help oversized bolt on stripped 1999 dodge durango. I feel like I could break the bottom one if I keep going.
Check this out I think it would work on your dodge let us know if you think it would have please
ua-cam.com/video/rNQg_qR4I4c/v-deo.html
😂 great video
My mechanic tighten those bolts tight but during driving they got loose and my caliper popped off! I lost almost all braking ability! Lucky me i was on a slow road or I wouldn't be alive right now. We put locktite threadlocker in them now. This all happened yesterday and fixed yesterday. Hopefully it is ok now
I don’t think anybody’s ever going to die unless they lose their mind when this happens it’s nearly impossible for the caliber to actually come off of the wheel.
Because the caliper is in between the rim and should not be able to come off unless you have 22s on your vehicle and they are very far away from the calibers
@@sharpcarco well what happened was the caliper bolts came off and half the caliper came off and i lost 1 brake pad. What also happened was it immediately leaked brake fluid and i lost like 90% braking power. I had to pump the brakes really fast to get it to stop and also because it was the rear hydraulics that failed the hand brake didn't work too. I was going like 15mph and find it hard to stop, imagine 60mph
So what is the easiest way to get a rounded off one that someone has over tightened
Thanks so much !
You very welcome
Thank u so much
Fyi- he's talking about the guide pins NOT the mounting bolts. The guidepins need tight, but loose or missing mounting bolts will cause a loose caliper and you will not be able to reverse smoothly.
My ‘16 accord had the caliper bracket mounting bolts sooo tight that one of them came out with the threads and all 😳 currently being held by one bolt torqued to 80 ft lbs. gonna have to find a used or new assembly. $231 new
Where can I buy caliper mounting bolt
Usually, the parts stores will have them you just asked for a pin kit for your particular make and model
@theclayway when they are too tight could this cause brakes to squeal when driving or turning?
Good afternoon Jason. I wouldn’t think that is the case it sounds like maybe you’re backing plate is rubbing against your rotor. Take a screwdriver and push it back. If that’s not the problem check your ball joints or your struts could be bad that causes the Willder angle improperly.
Got a broken one I’m removing now from being snapped off. Never been removed. Snapped loosening it off
Change the whole bracket, If necessary just a recommendation
@@sharpcarco ended up got it out. Man that was a pain though. Not sure if that was factory over torqued or a defective bolt but man that was for the birds
thanks for the info, was gonna replace my pads and rotors for the rears but stumbled upon bolts that felt like it was hand torque'd from Hulk himself.
Use a little anti-seize on them going back together. The next guy (or you) will be glad you did.
Thanks
I have a 2002 deville went to change the brakes and someone over torqued the pins and there’s corrosion. Snapped the bit in half on my impact driver
Nice video.
I was hoping you might respond to a question I have after I did a front brake job, and car seems to take longer to stop....
I just had my rotors resurfaced, and put new pads on my front brakes on my 1997 Grand Marquis. It now takes a longer distance for my car to stop. (It stops, it just feels like it travels an extra 20-40 feet longer than I think it did before, depending on my speed of course.) The pedal feels firm enough, it just takes longer to stop..I did not open the lines, but thought I would bleed the front brakes 'just in case' something wierd happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper. I bled the right front (and saw no air bubbles), and was going to bleed the left front, but the bleeder screw head is rounded, so didn't get that one done yet. (I think I need to buy a 'nut extractor' type socket. I could not even budge it with vice grips.)
So, I tried to think of what else might be 'wrong'. I read about 'bedding the new pads', and tried that, but so far, no help. Then, I thought about if the pads were being pushed against the rotor with the right amount of force, and that got me to thinking about those 'slide bolts'. I did not over tighten them, but I did not use a torque wrench either. I saw a few videos that said they should be 12-15 ft pounds torque. If I had them looser or tighter than 12-15 ft pounds - could that affect how much 'pressure' the new pads are being forced on the rotor with? (I was guessing that the tighter those slide bolts were, then the less distance the outer pad would need to travel to touch the outer part of the rotor. So, if they were less than 12-15 pounds, maybe they were not applying enough pressure on the outer side of the rotor? Maybe that is why the car takes a little longer to stop?)
I did let the left side caliper fall off the bracket once as I was doing this brake job ( I forgot to wire it up while removed). But, I don't see any fluid leeks - on either side.
I did add new grease on the pins, and they do slide in and out freely.
If my idea about the slide pin is off base, is their any other things I should be thinking about. and checking?
Thanks,
Matt
Does the pedal feel harder than you remember before you did the brakes?
Honestly it sounds like your brake booster is not working correctly. The brake booster is what the master cylinder connects to make sure that your main vacuum line is hooked up and not broken on the brake booster this is extremely common for the brake booster line to break behind the intake of the engine especially in them older fords, there’s a rubber elbow on it that wares out and becomes really mushy. (this will also cause your engine not to run properly)
I’m not certain if that’s your problem but it sounds like you did everything correctly to me and it’s like you said because you did not loosen the bleeders and there wasn’t a problem before you changed your brake pads you more than likely did not create the situation it was just a matter of circumstance that it happened at the same time as you were working on the brakes so please check that vacuum hose I’m thinking that that’s a pretty good possibility
If you have any questions in the future please look me up on Clays Ac and Auto Repair. And send me a message
Because here on UA-cam if you respond to this message I may not see it I hope that works out for you Matt have a great afternoon
@@sharpcarco Thanks for the thoughtful reply.
I think the brake pedal feels about the same as it was before the brake job. And, I have not noticed any change in the engine, due to vacuum leak from that booster hose you mentioned. I did inspect the brake booster vacuum hose, and it seems to still be solid, and in good shape.
I will look for your auto repair page.
So, I did check the torque on the glide pin nuts last night. They were a bit under the 21-26 foot pounds. My guess is they were around 18-20 foot pounds. I retorqued them to 24 foot pounds. Unfortunately, this did not improve my braking distance any.
Well it didn’t have any affect on it because the torque specifications for brake pins is kind of a relevant to their actual functioning the only reason that they use a torque specification for the break pin so they don’t come loose your calipers just float on the brake pins
Another possible situation is that your brake calipers themselves are defective or at least one of them is what you wanna do is drive around the block using your break normally immediately when you get out of the vehicle touch the Touch the wheels each one be careful because if they get too hot you may burn yourself.
Which ever wheel is hotter or is generating more heat is the wheel that has a caliper that is sticking and possibly the reason for your break problem. Because you asked this question I actually gave me a good idea on making a simple and quick video about this exact same thing I’ll do a little bit better description of it I guess when I make the video
@@sharpcarco I will try that test. I guess if one is not working well, it will be too cool also. I would more expect that if one side is not compressing as well as it should be, that would cause my braking distance to increase also.
I was not sure about the slides, I just though if they were not torqued enough, the gap would be larger, and the pads would need to slide further to make solid contact.with the rotors. Good to know the troque spec is just to make sure they are not coming loose
It's actually very important that you don't over tighten your caliper bolts best thing to do is look up or call the dealer and find out what the torque specs are for your car
I just changed my brake pads, however does'nt seem like the calipar pins move (have lubricated them of course). I have torqued each calipar pin to 30ft pounds. Is it normal that they dont move? When I take the brake pads off the the calipar pins move freely.
That’s a loaded question. Is this before you’ve ever push the brake pedal? Or after you’ve applied the brake pedal and before you take them off most vehicles the caliper pin should slide in and out if the brake pads are not contacting the rotor. From what you’re saying it sounds like that is appropriate but I’m not 100% sure because they are supposed to move in and out without the caliper mounted to the brake caliper bracket. Once the brake caliper is on and the brake pedal has been pressed making the brake pads contact the rotor it should not move in and out. I hope I’m clear enough and that response if you have anymore questions just ask no problem I don’t mind answering them
The Clay Way ahhh thats put me out my misery. Thank you 🙏🏿 , yes the brake pedals have been fully pumped and and the brake pads are now fully contracting with the rotors.
Thx good video very helpful 👍💥
Do the bolts on a brake job really need to be torqued? What's your opinion?
There is torque specifications for Everything but you would have to look them up sorry I wish I could be of more help I don’t think it’s necessary to look up the torque specifications because I see so many people over tighten these bolts
YES whole caliper fell off while driving because I did not torque the bracket bolts made me wanna off my self tbh
@clay Rogers what type of noise might a vehicle make if the bolt(s) were tightened too tight? I have a truck that makes a rubbing metal on metal sound right after new brake pads.
Its Probably not over tighten bolts you probably didn’t put the clips and properly if it’s doing that hope that’s helpful check it out have a great day
I had this weird metal on metal noise ever since I got a new brake pad job done shortly before I commented that original comment. The weird thing is that no one had any idea what it could be, including the shop that did the brake job. They said they heard nothing when they drove it. I searched high and low, watching hundreds of videos and could not find that same noise. A different shop drove it and said they didnt hear anything either. I ended up getting new calipers as they were honestly overdue. The noise was still there but a different pitch. That told me that whatever was rubbing was something that had been replaced in that caliper job. It ended up being that the dust shield was bent and was rubbing. I still cant believe that no one thought of that when I described it to them, especially if they do brake jobs all the time. I figure that bending a dust shield happens more often than not sometimes. Who knows?
Hey boss I’m from Grand Rapids Michigan , how much do you guys charge for a rear bearing replacement on a bmw 335xi 2007 contact me let me know what other things you guys also specialize in!
Sorry I dont run a retail shop.
$200 you buy parts
What happens when you over tighten the bolts? Does the brake drag the wheel?
No that’s probably just a bad caliper, Reason you don’t over tighten them just so you don’t break them and strip out the threads, And to lose the bolts could come out obviously
Yeah i cant get that bolt out. Its free spinning with the caliper pin and i have nothing thin enough to secure the caliper pin with because it has a lip on it.
Welll you can try to pull that out with a pair of vise grips
If that doesn’t work you could cut the head of the bolt off and get a new one
And if that doesn’t work you could just get a whole new caliper bracket they’re not very expensive and they will come with the bolts as well
I wouldn't say that it doesn't do anything other than allow the caliper to slide side to side....it holds the caliper on, the first bolt you show holds the caliper (bracket) on, the actual caliper, pads and pistons are in that bit held on by the very two bolts that you say don't do much. Now they are long bolts and the chances of them coming loose and sliding out are very slim but if it did slide out it'd likely hit a suspension arm or similar while turning and shear off, you'll never know until something bad happens. Upshot is, these do need to be tight, just not super tight, main reason being you'll likely shear the head off the bolt, I just put a 1/4" socket and short ratchet on and give it a good tighten, I don't use a torque wrench.
Well thank you very much for the message but I think that’s pretty much what I told people in there no I do not discuss the caliper bracket bolts they are a totally separate subject because they require an extreme amount of torque loc- tight to hold them on. Thank you very much we appreciate your input God bless and have a great day
I just wish a Ford dealership would provide me with torque specs if they're so dang important. I've also heard that customers with the same car after purchasing the service manual came to find out it doesn't list torque specs for caliper bolts, how about that?
Hey salty good morning. You can always look up the torque specs for a bolt it does not have to be specific to the manufacturer
If you take the grade of the bolt the Pitch of the thread. And the size there are charts everywhere they will tell you the torque specifications for that bolt.
Manufacturers install bolts and they use the torque spec guide 90% of the time for the torque specifications of a particular bolt which are generic. Give or take 5% of the generic torque specifications. So it’s not necessary to call the dealership or even have the particular specification for a bolt and not be within tolerances. I’ll make a quick video on this and explain it here within a couple of days that’s a pretty simple video
@@sharpcarco thanks so much!
i need a caliper bracket that says 10.3 on top and cannot find it. any help?
lol. Good public service announcement
I snapped my Caliper bolt yesterday, lucky I had a spare
Lol.
I broke mine two weeks ago
Thanks
Help please I over tightened it with a breaker bar that i cant even take out or tighteen it again
It keeps spinning with the nut on the inner side (next the boot)
I tightened mine with an impact and ever since I did my brakes it seams like the outer pad is either dragging or in at and angle
Just wanna know over tightning these caliper bolts can cause wheel tight?
I think you need to re-ask your question I’m fairly certain that that’s not exactly what you’re trying to ask because I don’t understand. Sorry sometimes when people answer questions I can read between the lines but in this situation I’m not sure what you’re asking . shouldn’t be tight?
Will 120ft pounds of torque be ok for them bolts
Sounds like a lot. For the caliper bolt into the bracket look up the torque specifications. For your vehicle.
If you over tighten this bolt could it affect how the brake pad hits the rotor?
Just did new pads rotors and on one the brake pad doesn't hit the rotor on like the inside . So you see two colors on the rotor, silver where the brake pad hits (around outside) and then sorta white on the inside due to the rotors finish from being new.
I’d love to help you with that William but I’m not quite sure exactly what you’re saying really sorry
@@sharpcarco it looks like I fixed the issue. I took the caliper off and cleaned everything again. Checked the caliper pins. Looks good now no uneven contact on the rotor. I’m happy lol
I was told that you were supposed to go to 85 foot pounds of torque just broke it doing that. Thank you lol
I only had one more bolt
27 is the number for Ford f150 15' & newer... although stock from factory... Definitely tighter than 27 about as stubborn as caliper bracket/bolt.
85 is for the caliper mount and not the caliper itself. The mount has a much bigger bolt
If you do happen to "tighten the shit out of it" would it cause your breaks to smoke?
If anyone else can do it, you can do it too. Life advice
i have a little play on my front caliper, is that normal?
Hey jersey do you have to be a little bit more specific if your caliper is moving back-and-forth (in and out or left to right) that is normal because your brake pads are not pressed down and your caliper is not clamping. If your caliper is wobbling when you press on your brakes when you’re driving your car down the road you have warped rotors you can look at the front face of the rotor or the back and if there is blueing or hotspots do you have a warped rotor. I highly recommend you just look up The torque specifications for your bolts and tighten them accordingly hopefully that information is helpful God bless and have a great day
@@sharpcarcoYea let me look at that, I do have new rotors, its just they were movable and thought it wasn't supposed to do that. Thank you,
I changed my brakes and the brake caliper won’t tighten all the way back on. Move left front right
I tho the 2 bolt hold the caliper so if the bolt aint tighten the vibration could make fall out or is it me???
It doesn’t say leave the bolts loose..... it says that when they’re small bolts that hold the caliper on (i’m not talking about the caliper bracket them bolts are very tight) It says do not strip them out
what is the torque spec for honda hrv awd 2020 on bolts front and rear slider pins and bracktes?