Regarding the oil, you have exactly the same space as before minus the added bush, so one easy whey to measure this is to drop the bush in a measuring cup and look how much the water rice, this amount you take away from total original oil for this fork.
Love the fact that the PVC fuck up was not edited out to try to save face, so to say…..in any way, shape or form. In today’s world everyone tries to save face from any kind of messup / screw up so they can’t be judged or ridiculed, just shows me a tremendous amount about the character of this gentleman. Could have so easily been removed from his footage prior to upload. Stuff like this is what interests me in ppl and he Is super informative and just a nice guy. Seems like and easy man to have a beer with and shoot the shit! Got a new sub in me bro!
i modded mine before finding this but the funny thing is that you cut the top spring, i did the same mod but instead of using a metal bush, i used the short spring in place of the metal bush on the damper rod that i cut from the top spring.. works well..
Glad to see you get back on the project. I really like the relocation you did. Great place to hide it in open site. I also like the lowered front forks. That goes really well with the traditional bobber style bikes. Both of my Harley Sportsers are slammed. I have an 03 883 custom that's slammed with burly super slammer shocks in the rear, and the front forks raised through the trees. And my 88 883 to 1200 Buell xb12 conversion is on a Pauchgo rigid frame with 35° rake with the original factory front forks. It sits extremely low, and looks amazing. I did have to compromise on clearance, but that bike is a blast to ride. Extreme cornering is the only real concern, and I've never had any real issues with cornering. I really like the direction that this bike project is heading. Great job!!!
Mediocre Motors Mine was a 1980 Kz550 LTD. I had it from 1985-1991. I now have a 1983 Kz750 LTD. I haven’t had it too long. It’s in great shape, but I’m not going to ride until I get all my gear. Anyway, I might lower the front on it, too.
Not sure I agree with where you cut the spring...the end with the coils closer together is responsible for progressive dampening effects..in other words it's the business end if the spring...not sure how that cut will affect that purpose..would seem wise to cut the opposite end with wider coils which is more just stock spring more mainly responsible for ride height
Thank you for making this. Very informative. I need to do the same thing to may Harley project. This really helps. I'm using a custom narrow glide with 41mm forks. Using a dished Suzuki brake disc, inverted with the mounting holes counter sunk and the fork leg slightly shaved for clearance.
Nice! But I would have cut off the bottom where is less progressive and just put the spring upside down for better a little stiffer dampening for not bottom out every pothole 👍
This has been my favorite build series on UA-cam. Are there any plans to paint/powdercoat the frame? Or possibly relocate the foot controls a few inches forward?, being a smaller bike that had the seat height lowered (hardtail conversion and springer seat) I can see it feeling a bit cramped
The sealing washer on the Allen bolt is COPPER -designed that way so the soft copper seals against the soft alloy fork leg without damaging it,BRASS is harder and will struggle to seal the bolt to the alloy without damage.
Dear. With the spacer you were blocking the two orifice in the lower part of the shaft of the damping rod, did you notice any difference in the front suspension behavior? I'm trying the same mod but my concern is to block those two orifices. King regards. Arthur from Argentina.
really enjoyed this video as it will help me lower my front end, picked up a Honda 80' CM400 dirt cheap and have already started to make it a bobber, fabricated my own hardtail while still utilizing the existing swingarm. However I still am not pleased with the overall bike height. I plan to do a 2" fork drop and, will be relocating the swingarm pivot bolt/tube perhaps an 1-1/2" higher in the main frame, thus dropping the bike lower to the ground, will have to reangle the hardtail side supports that are currently only tacked. I see all kinds of mods using struts but that's not what I want, trying to be original here with the fabrication...anyways thanks for sharing this fork drop video, much appreciated :)
I guess you gonna get overheating problems with the regulator/rectifier as they need a flat contact surface with conduction paste inbetween the regulator and the frame. Normaly its moutend on a aluminium plate on the subframe that conducts the heat fast otherwise it burns out. maybe im wrong on this type of regulator but had this experience with a custom honda vfr750.
Question- wondering, as it looks like it’s a small little bobber unit, & probably not too good for taller riders as myself (just to gauge), how tall are you man? Give a gauge when it’s built & you finally sit on it to compare for persons. Of course it’s too soon to tell, but wondering just for wondering. Cheers, man. Hope the chaos has subsided a little bit. M in Sacto.
Glad to find this video, most info I can find is all buy new stuff b.s. I was going to try cutting and I h off my coils on my ultra classic, but didn’t know about the spacer needed on the damper. Is that part necessary?
@@hardtailsuicidaljockey6827 I bought one and didn't care for it. So I'm going to build my own handmade Springer. Good for you 32 years of riding the same bike
It went together easily in less than an hour. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
It pushes the fork tube down and shortens the overall fork length in proportion to the length of the spacer. Cutting the spring can change the preload and spring rate. Just cutting the spring would produce a super soft, spongy suspension. Some ppl cut the spring less than the length of the spacer to increase preload and make the suspension stiffer.
Just to be clear and honest.Braps are for two stroke engines. Which this is most definitely not. Its a 4 stroke. No hate it happens, just wanna inform you to educate and not hate.
Not really ... they are a very different setup. Most rear shocks aren't rebuildable so you just buy shorter shocks. Or if you have a monoshock you can buy cantilever lowering kits.
Spacer on damper rod effects how far fork tube sits inside the fork lower shortening the length of the fork tube coming out the top which makes the spring stick out farther which is why spring needs to be shortened aswell
It will, you would need to lower your rear suspension as well or you could end up with a wonky high rear low front angle. Best to get shorter rear suspension that you like then use the method he shows to get your front end to match
Looking for signs of professionalism here. Cuts & files the PVC tube before checking whether it fits inside the fork tube. Cuts the springs without calculating the revised spring rate, and without calculating how much it changes the rake & trail.
Hey im new to all this and i was wondering if you could give me some advice. Lowering does what exactly to the bike? You mentioned rake and trail which im assuming means maneuverability but not sure. Much appreciated if you can spare the time.
@@oishisan9179 - The basic concepts are explained in en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_and_motorcycle_geometry . Refer to the top diagram: lowering only the front forks effectively rotates the whole frame clockwise (around the rear axle) by a small amount. That makes the steering head a bit closer to upright, and reduces the trail. In this design (leading front axle), a perfectly vertical steering head results in negative trail which is treacherous. Compare this with the castor wheels on a piece of light furniture - try to keep THAT axle out in front! Steering design is a field of expertise for engineers, not artists. That's why motorcycle manufacturers always quote their numbers.
@@CORVIUM OK. Reducing the original fork's travel, also changes the fork spring rate, and suspension geometry. I would NOT advise this. I assume you have an umbrella policy?
He does have a real job. Most builders don't build bikes in a matter of days. To do it right takes time, especially when it's a side project. I've been rebuilding my bike for a much longer time. Just because he's not finishing it in a week, doesn't make it less. I think it shows that he cares about the project, and doing it right. It's easy to criticize when you're not doing it. Try it, then maybe you will have a legitimate complaint
Regarding the oil, you have exactly the same space as before minus the added bush, so one easy whey to measure this is to drop the bush in a measuring cup and look how much the water rice, this amount you take away from total original oil for this fork.
Love the fact that the PVC fuck up was not edited out to try to save face, so to say…..in any way, shape or form. In today’s world everyone tries to save face from any kind of messup / screw up so they can’t be judged or ridiculed, just shows me a tremendous amount about the character of this gentleman. Could have so easily been removed from his footage prior to upload. Stuff like this is what interests me in ppl and he Is super informative and just a nice guy. Seems like and easy man to have a beer with and shoot the shit!
Got a new sub in me bro!
i modded mine before finding this but the funny thing is that you cut the top spring, i did the same mod but instead of using a metal bush, i used the short spring in place of the metal bush on the damper rod that i cut from the top spring.. works well..
Glad to see you get back on the project. I really like the relocation you did. Great place to hide it in open site. I also like the lowered front forks. That goes really well with the traditional bobber style bikes. Both of my Harley Sportsers are slammed. I have an 03 883 custom that's slammed with burly super slammer shocks in the rear, and the front forks raised through the trees. And my 88 883 to 1200 Buell xb12 conversion is on a Pauchgo rigid frame with 35° rake with the original factory front forks. It sits extremely low, and looks amazing. I did have to compromise on clearance, but that bike is a blast to ride. Extreme cornering is the only real concern, and I've never had any real issues with cornering. I really like the direction that this bike project is heading. Great job!!!
When I lowered my front, since it was only a few inches, I just loosened the triple clamp, slid them up and retightened.
Mediocre Motors Mine was a 1980 Kz550 LTD. I had it from 1985-1991. I now have a 1983 Kz750 LTD. I haven’t had it too long. It’s in great shape, but I’m not going to ride until I get all my gear. Anyway, I might lower the front on it, too.
Not sure I agree with where you cut the spring...the end with the coils closer together is responsible for progressive dampening effects..in other words it's the business end if the spring...not sure how that cut will affect that purpose..would seem wise to cut the opposite end with wider coils which is more just stock spring more mainly responsible for ride height
Thinking the same thing
Thank you for making this. Very informative. I need to do the same thing to may Harley project. This really helps.
I'm using a custom narrow glide with 41mm forks. Using a dished Suzuki brake disc, inverted with the mounting holes counter sunk and the fork leg slightly shaved for clearance.
Nice! But I would have cut off the bottom where is less progressive and just put the spring upside down for better a little stiffer dampening for not bottom out every pothole 👍
Funny you say that. I was concerned that the progressive option would blow through the stroke too quick. I could be wrong
This has been my favorite build series on UA-cam. Are there any plans to paint/powdercoat the frame? Or possibly relocate the foot controls a few inches forward?, being a smaller bike that had the seat height lowered (hardtail conversion and springer seat) I can see it feeling a bit cramped
Very humble man, hope all works out for you..Dig the bike too!
The sealing washer on the Allen bolt is COPPER -designed that way so the soft copper seals against the soft alloy fork leg without damaging it,BRASS is harder and will struggle to seal the bolt to the alloy without damage.
Dear. With the spacer you were blocking the two orifice in the lower part of the shaft of the damping rod, did you notice any difference in the front suspension behavior? I'm trying the same mod but my concern is to block those two orifices. King regards. Arthur from Argentina.
Nah, still worked great! Thanks for watching! MP
really enjoyed this video as it will help me lower my front end, picked up a Honda 80' CM400 dirt cheap and have already started to make it a bobber, fabricated my own hardtail while still utilizing the existing swingarm. However I still am not pleased with the overall bike height. I plan to do a 2" fork drop and, will be relocating the swingarm pivot bolt/tube perhaps an 1-1/2" higher in the main frame, thus dropping the bike lower to the ground, will have to reangle the hardtail side supports that are currently only tacked. I see all kinds of mods using struts but that's not what I want, trying to be original here with the fabrication...anyways thanks for sharing this fork drop video, much appreciated :)
Hope all is good here! Those electrical jobs are NO JOKE
I guess you gonna get overheating problems with the regulator/rectifier as they need a flat contact surface with conduction paste inbetween the regulator and the frame.
Normaly its moutend on a aluminium plate on the subframe that conducts the heat fast otherwise it burns out. maybe im wrong on this type of regulator but had this experience with a custom honda vfr750.
this just saved my magna lol. i moved mine because i lowered it.
Question- wondering, as it looks like it’s a small little bobber unit, & probably not too good for taller riders as myself (just to gauge), how tall are you man? Give a gauge when it’s built & you finally sit on it to compare for persons. Of course it’s too soon to tell, but wondering just for wondering. Cheers, man. Hope the chaos has subsided a little bit. M in Sacto.
Você é fera, parabéns!
lowering front shocks a sudden brake Suspension Bottom Is there a collision?
Great video, just what I needed. Weird question; what's the song at the beginning??
Thx
I have learned a lot.
That makeshift Allen wrench is fucking brilliant.
That bolt trick sure does beat spending $25 on an allen head!
Is this the same for all traditional forks? Also, I'm a bit lost in how adding the 2" spacer makes the tube shorter! Help lol
I was thinking the same thing. One of the commenters explained it as the damper and spacer sits inside the spring
You should cover the carbs before you drill holes right next to them...
Wow great content, just what I was waiting for, thanks!
Awesome stuff, love the relatable, simple content!
Onya man. Lovin this.
Awesome work enjoyed your video big time!
Glad to find this video, most info I can find is all buy new stuff b.s. I was going to try cutting and I h off my coils on my ultra classic, but didn’t know about the spacer needed on the damper. Is that part necessary?
Yes
Why?
Because there will be slack in the travel if you don't @@rolandos64
What's up Bro???? Where you at??? Hope all is well!!!
Coming back in a few days. Had delays waiting on electrical.
Thank you so much, these videos are very helpful!
2 1/2 in of travel is going to be a rough ride!
Does this idea work for my softail as well?
Did you also shorten the forn or just the spring. Just curious. Since i have a cb 650. Im trying to make a café racer of it
How did it turn out
People complaining about the bikes performance after lowering it. It’s a bobber not a sport bike the fuck it handles like shit anyways who cares
Pero habrá que conducir seguro a 160 km ? No me hace gracia que tiemble la moto a más de 100 km
You should have gone with a Springer front end. Looks so much better for a bobber. Spoke wheels too
Yet he's the one doing it and you are just watching !! Big difference huh
@@hardtailsuicidaljockey6827 nope. Sadly mistaken. I currently have a manufactured Springer installed. I'm going to sell it and fabricate my own.
@@industrialpalletworx3548 good for you I build ever bike I ride now for 32 years so you bought I Springer just to make your own ? I dont get that??
@@hardtailsuicidaljockey6827 I bought one and didn't care for it. So I'm going to build my own handmade Springer. Good for you 32 years of riding the same bike
@@hardtailsuicidaljockey6827 the whole point is why mess with those ratty pos forks and trees. Throw them away and put something rad on it
covering up those holes with spacers didn't affect dampening?
How do you go back to stock ffs someone lowered my bike found out when I am trying to do fork seals
It went together easily in less than an hour. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
how does it ride after this mod?
How’s about just raising them 2.5’ and putting handle bars straight on fork?
nooooo
Dig your videos! Keep up the good work.
Looks like this bike will be a rough ride, may be okay for short rides, but I could be wrong.
M-Unit would have fixed all your wiring issues, but they're darn expensive
Can you get away with not making those internal spacers? Whats their main purpose?
I was wondering the same thing. The progressive kits don’t change the lower damper which makes it much simpler. Hope to get an answer also.
It pushes the fork tube down and shortens the overall fork length in proportion to the length of the spacer. Cutting the spring can change the preload and spring rate. Just cutting the spring would produce a super soft, spongy suspension. Some ppl cut the spring less than the length of the spacer to increase preload and make the suspension stiffer.
Awesome
Looking for your new video everyday
what does that do to your rake?
Great video. New subscriber
Pro work👌
Love!!!
so you got lesser rake for better turning
Please upload new vid bro... I need my fix
Looow riiiiider, BRAAAAP
Just to be clear and honest.Braps are for two stroke engines. Which this is most definitely not. Its a 4 stroke. No hate it happens, just wanna inform you to educate and not hate.
Thomas Taylor What are braps?
U ARE GRATE MAN.
can you lower the rear the same?
Not really ... they are a very different setup. Most rear shocks aren't rebuildable so you just buy shorter shocks. Or if you have a monoshock you can buy cantilever lowering kits.
What exactly did you do to lower it I don’t understand
Spacer on damper rod effects how far fork tube sits inside the fork lower shortening the length of the fork tube coming out the top which makes the spring stick out farther which is why spring needs to be shortened aswell
It's another UA-cam video a half hour long to get some monetary kickback from UA-cam. He has nothing to say or show at all
One question... Does this shortened the height of the bike??? I am a short guy i am planning of lowering my bike .... Let me know sir.
It will, you would need to lower your rear suspension as well or you could end up with a wonky high rear low front angle. Best to get shorter rear suspension that you like then use the method he shows to get your front end to match
Looking for signs of professionalism here. Cuts & files the PVC tube before checking whether it fits inside the fork tube. Cuts the springs without calculating the revised spring rate, and without calculating how much it changes the rake & trail.
Brian Vogt fuck off dude
@@gagesvideos4489 LOL. Looking for signs of professionalism in this comment.
Hey im new to all this and i was wondering if you could give me some advice. Lowering does what exactly to the bike? You mentioned rake and trail which im assuming means maneuverability but not sure. Much appreciated if you can spare the time.
@@oishisan9179 - The basic concepts are explained in en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_and_motorcycle_geometry . Refer to the top diagram: lowering only the front forks effectively rotates the whole frame clockwise (around the rear axle) by a small amount. That makes the steering head a bit closer to upright, and reduces the trail. In this design (leading front axle), a perfectly vertical steering head results in negative trail which is treacherous. Compare this with the castor wheels on a piece of light furniture - try to keep THAT axle out in front! Steering design is a field of expertise for engineers, not artists. That's why motorcycle manufacturers always quote their numbers.
@@brianvogt8125 thanks for taking the time to point me in the right direction. I appreciate it.
swarf flying everywhere, and open carbs !!!
pvc pipe as a spacer ?? pvc degrades in oil over time
Progressive uses them in their drop in kits. The are used in many front fork applications
normal human NOT cut shorten ,lot better make longer fork.
what?
Me not normal human me bad human that like bike low
You are LOWERING the bike. "Shortening the forks" requires shorter tubes or cutting them and rewelding/chroming.
Neither of two, lower tube and upper are overlapping, putting a spacer reduces the travel due this overlap increases.
@@CORVIUM OK. Reducing the original fork's travel, also changes the fork spring rate, and suspension geometry.
I would NOT advise this. I assume you have an umbrella policy?
No offense, but this guy looks too intimidating for a DIY video
Dude DAMPING you are controlling oil flow. Not DAMPENING you are not making things wetter! Please ... terminology must be correct!.
6 month and still not finished get a real job man
post a video of your bike Azul
He does have a real job. Most builders don't build bikes in a matter of days. To do it right takes time, especially when it's a side project. I've been rebuilding my bike for a much longer time. Just because he's not finishing it in a week, doesn't make it less. I think it shows that he cares about the project, and doing it right. It's easy to criticize when you're not doing it. Try it, then maybe you will have a legitimate complaint
@@thomasbarnardjr9657 The fact that he is putting in this effort and planning on giving it away is why I'm even here in the first place.