Cafe Racer Build Part 5, How to shorten Front Forks, 78 Suzuki GS550
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- Опубліковано 13 гру 2024
- Day 5 and I'm shortening the front forks by 50mm so that the front wheel tucks in just a little more and that the front end doesn't look like an easy rider. This is really simple if you're accurate and careful with your cutting and measuring.
It involves these steps:
1. Bleed the oil by opening the bottom screw
2. Disassemble the fork by opening the top bolt.
3. Cut a steel tube to your size, I recommend no more than 50mm
4. Place that as a spacer on the large pin that sticks out the bottom of your fork, spacer first, small spring after.
5. Cut the large spring by the same size as the spacer.
6. Re-assemble with new oil.
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Thank you for taking time to respond to my comment and questions... It must be quite exhilarating to be riding a bike that you personally built... created... from your vision, to its conception and finally to have it on the road. I am able to see in my mind what I want, what I like, but I lack the knowledge of the mechanics. I've ridden for years but I would love the do what you have. Congratulations on the completion of your bike, it looks fabulous - I appreciate your putting it's process on the internet.
+Scott Fraser You're welcome, I'm yet to ride this one, still an on going job, but I'll get there.
Your woman is going to be pissed about that oil on her table.
+citrus1973 too right
+citrus1973 I was thinking the same thing ;) The 'shop' will be closed for a while I guess... :)
First thing I thought when watching this vid.
Clearly doesn't give a toss about his garden furniture.
Pro tip for wrenching on forks: Always move the fork up in the triple clamp by a few inches before attempting to take out the large top nut. (aka the 22mm in this video) If you keep it in the top triple, with the triple clamp tight, you will almost never get it off without buggering up the internal thread, marking up the top nut, or throwing out your back.
+Westside Mosquito yep. That's been done. But I only ever like to push them up until they're level with the top of the yolk. Any further than that and I find they start to look wrong on the bike.
I'm not saying move them up permanently...only move them up to take out the top nut. On a modern superbike fork it's nearly impossible to get the top nut out with the fork clamped in place.
+Westside Mosquito ah got you. Makes sense
Such a brilliantly clear and concise video. Really appreciate your content, it's massively helpful.
Glad it came of use.
Also, this procedure shortens the travel of the forks by 50mm as well. The only way to keep the stock travel would be to cut the top fork tube 50mm shorter and re-thread the top for the 22mm nut. And this would eliminate the need for the bottom spacer. In both cases expect a bit of a firmer ride with shorter springs and less air volume if you refill with the manufacturer's recommended oil cc's. Measuring the oil fill using the distance from the top of the fully compressed fork tube to the top of the oil (springs out ,usually) will make the ride a bit softer.
+Westside Mosquito a lot of people assume that the travel will be affected and suggest re threading the tube but this causes a lot of un needed work. Essentially nothing is being shortened here but all that's happening is that the lower part of the fork is attached a little higher as the inner piston doesn't stick out as much. Fork travel distance still remains the same. The fork itself is left untouched.
Gotcha!
Thanks for the video, looks like you've done this before.
Hope you don't get heat for spilling oil on the table. ;-)
I'm working on a '79 GS550 cafe project in my spare time.
I really appreciate your videos.
John Yost Ha, I left the engine in the kitchen to distract my fiance from the oil spill on the table. Good luck and enjoy your 79 GS550.
Nicely explained..would you know if it would be the same on a 85 Honda rebel??
I imagine you've built several other bikes previously... I appreciate that you didn't have all the fancy shop tools yet you do everything well which shows me how are can do it since I don't have anything more than you've shown. Who did the welding?
+Scott Fraser A few restorations before, mostly MX. True, if I had a proper motorbike shop with all the tools such as lathe, powder coating booth etc the job would be much faster and easier. The only welding not done by me was the exhaust. It takes skill to get a nice sealed weld.
thanks for the great video. I just completed this last night on my 81 gs400. made a huge difference to the stance. thanks again mate!
Glad it went well for you.
+dreegez bikes finished. keen to show you. what's your instagram?
Hello friend greetings from Chile , excellent video I really liked.
I have a question.
- The oil trip in the end?
+bender rodriges Thank you, I add the oil in the end but I don't show that in the video.
Will you be sharing its completion? If you do on sure that I will enjoy watching it.
+Scott Fraser Yes, I have another video to go up this week on cleaning the bike's carbs whilst I wait for the battery charger to be delivered.
How does this affect the suspension? Does it make it a tighter suspension and also do you ever have any issues with bottoming the front fork? Great build!!!
It does make a tighter suspension but for me that's a good thing as I usually increase the thickness of my fork oil anyway
For The Bold what thickness do you suggest? I like a tighter suspension as well and I’m shortening my forks like you did on my 81 CB650. Thanks again.
Great video, thanks. My bike has a single length of spring (435mm) and a 100mm spacer on top of it. Can I cut 35mm off this spacer and use it on the piston (it fits) or does the 35mm need to come off the main spring and a separate spacer for the piston? Many thanks.
What’s up man so for my 80 gs450L should I do the same measurements as you did? I Only have one bring spring can’t find anything but your video got me closer to what I’m doing to lower it just a little Please lmk asap hah thanks buddy!
I would measure the same but in your frame. The frames might be different for the engine sizes.
I think I'll do mine with a miter saw and abrasive disk. Good video - thnx.
Thumbs up.
Great video, I have a GS550E 1982 model and I am struggling to dismantle the forks, there is no way to undo the top of the fork (where you use the 22mm socket spanner) It almost looks like a cone shape, never seen a tool that could dismantle it? Any way you know what would need to be done?
This is a great video I want to do this to my cb550 forks how much do I cut off my springs thank you
I wouldn't suggesting going any longer than 50mm.
Hi, great content, dead handy seeing the trials and tribulations of the GS550. Just one question, what diameter pipe did you use? As i want to get some before i rip the forks apart for a service. I will also be lowering the rear by 45mm to get the low to the ground look.
Thanks in advance
I’d recommend keeping the springs the same first to see how you like it. I think it was 25mm diameter.
Cheers bud, ill do just that, the the tube, see how i like the look then do the springs!
To what extent can the forks be shortened? Help please. Want this info for my college project.
mine on top where u unscrewed. looks like an air nozzle thing like youd find on a wheel.
Your fork would use air compression if it has that, rather than oil like mine.
That's awesome no oil? Same process with out oil sounds like a plan. Thanks for the simple video.
There should be oil in there. The oil dampens the movement (up or down). The air acts like a progressive spring. The more you compress the fork the harder it should be to bottom out. It also sets the pre-load. The more air you add the taller the bike sits.
Thanks for the vid, just finished mine with your expert tuition.
Mind if I ask a question? I seem to have got the plug leads all mixed up, which way do they go back on? I am siting on the bike looking down at the coils and engine. Yes I am a numpty.
+pembdock Hi, thanks for the comment, if it's the same as mine, sitting on the bike the left coil feeds pistons 1 & 4 and the right had coil feeds 2 & 3.
did you get 50mm shorter rear shocks because I plan on doing the same with my GS.
There are two small pin holes located where the spacer is going to be. Do I need to be worried about covering those up, seems like they are there to allow oil to move around?......thanks for the videos
As long as the oil moves freely through whatever you'll be fine, but the oil does need to move.
thanks for the response... do you shorten the rear shocks the same amount that you take off the forks?
No, I wanted the front of the bike to come down so I kept them the same.
Are you sure you can fill the tubes with the same amount of oil than before?
You can change to whatever quantities you want. Even change the weight or mix the weight of the oil to make it stiffer etc. Do whatever you want to suit you. I tend to mix a thicker oil for myself.
have you shorten your rear springs aswell? should be necessary to align your steering angle i guess?
No, the new rear springs I bought were the same length as the old ones, the bike does lean forward a tiny bit now. Yeah definitely, anytime you take your front shocks off you'll need to do the necessary checks before tightening the bolts.
Should I put the same amount of oil before and after the repair?
Yes
@@forthebold Thank you
lowering front shocks a sudden brake Suspension Bottom Is there a collision?
No
HI,NICE JOB',IM IN TOTAL BUDGET AND I HAVE THIS OLD 1979 KAWASAKI KE 100 TWO STROKE ENDURO THAT I WANT TO MAKE IT AS LOW AS 4 INCHES CAUSE IM A SHORT GUY,.MY QUESTION IS CAN I JUST TAKE THE HANDLE BAR OFF,TAKE THE CAP OFF,SPACER,WASHER,MAIN SPRING THEN CUT ON SPRING AND SPACER THEN PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER AND ITS DONE?IS IT POSSIBLE?..THANK YOU SO MUCH...
4" would be dangerous, max I'd ever suggest is 2
Have you done this to a CB750? And where are you typically cutting the spring ( top end or bottom)? Thanks for the vids
Not yet, The side you need to do is the non-tapered side if there is one. Needs to be he flat surface to go against that washer.
Great content! I'm looking to do the same thing to my '83 BMW R65. How did you determine the diameter, sizing and material for the spacer? 35mm Fork diameter. Thanks!
Glad you enjoy the content. Size: I wouldn’t go longer than 2”. Material = steel. Diameter: whatever will fit inside you Id of your fork
@@forthebold Thanks for the reply! So as long as it fits within the inner diameter i should be good? They're 35mm forks. Also, is there s minimum size to go with and how did you determine the thickness of your spacer walls?
waiting on my new manual to come. what oil and capacity do you use for your forks?
I honestly can't remember the capacity off the top of my head, and I don't have my manual at the moment, when I find out I'll post it. But I used 50 / 50 of engine oil and fork oil.
why the front shocks leaks very early after repairing
Hello how are you, I have been following your videos, I have a gs550e 1981. Yesterday I disarmed the front suspension, and only one side has the piece number 51195-45030 which is the one you take in the second 0:59 of your video. Is it normal or should I have it on both sides? What does it perform. Great your videos Greetings from Argentina
Both sides should be a mirror image of each other, definitely.
what whas the diameter of that spacer you cut that goes on the damper?? is there a specific size it has to be? really enjoying your videos btw
+IABxXxLITHIUM For the diameter if you find something that matches the spring then it'll be perfect, for the length, it needs to be the same as the length you cut off the spring.
okay makes sense thanks for the reply
Will this also work for the CX500 project? I have a '79 CX500 and was thinking about lowering the front by an inch or so? Or, Maybe just getting a new set of forks and triple tree?
I'm going to open the forks next weekend to have a look, I'm hoping they will as a short term solution before the GSXR forks
how much oil do you need to put in and what type of oil do you need? sorry it's my first time attempting a bike build so I have lots of questions
Best check with your manual for the bike, each bike and model differ
I have the same grinder. What disks did you use? grinding or cutting?
Cutting then grinding just to neaten up.
dreegez I am using cutting disks and man it takes for fricken ever. Is it normal for the disks to break often?
Hello I have a 82 gs850g and I wanna lower the forks for stance, but I’ve been hearing from a lot of shops that it will radically affect my steering and make it a “death trap”, any suggestions?
It will alter it so don’t go too short to start with
okay you answered my question on the other video here. thanks
Glad to help!
Hi dude, can I do this to my kz 750 b?
Hey Dreegez, maybe stupid question (got no experience on bikes but looking for summer project now), is it possible to cut the outer tube and spring (same length) so you wouldn't have to change anything to the damper? Cause if you lower by let us say a 100 mm and use a spacer, wouldn't the outer tube and the bottom of the fork make contact during large stroke (if you get what I mean)? On the other hand you'll probably need to retap the thread for the big bolt on top if you cut this piece.
+qvdbossche It'll probably be more effort than it's worth to be honest, and you're right you'll have to re-tap a new thread etc, but you'd still have to change the length of the internals also. Would probably be easier just to buy a new shorter front end from say a superbike or something. There's currently no contact but I'd advise not to go any shorter than 50mm, and if you want to shorten extra length then slide the forks up the yolk a bit.
+dreegez Okay, thanks a lot for the info! ;-)
Sorry for the just joining. If you did it using qvdbossche's method, you would...
1. disregard the spacer
2. Shorten the outer tube 50mm
3. retap the threads of the outer tube
4. Same as the video, still shorten the internal spring 50mm, but is it really different? I personally like not having to sacrifice dampening performance for appearance.
Did I miss anything else? I haven't tapped threads on pipe much, but I'm having trouble picturing it being that much extra work. Is there something I'm not seeing? I've had to watch the video 4 times to get my head finally wrapped around this.
The only thing extra is the spring. This wil have to be shortened as well. Or you'll have to compress it 50mm extra to mount te "bolt" in the retaped thread. I thing that's it. But that's me thinking about it. I haven't done this so can't speek from experience!
I have a little Suz GN I want to turn into a cafe racer. I'm relieved that I can shorten the front forks because the whole angle of the bike is just so unaesthetic.
I agree. Definitely the issue I had with this one.
by making this change, changes the amount of hydraulic fluid required by the fork or filled with origuinal amount. I am very interested in your response I am thinking do that to my bike
greetings from Chile
Your front fork isn't pressured by hydraulic as such as you have air in there, (which is much softer than oil), so keep the volume of oil the same as the manual
Thanks for your answer, I hope more videos about cafe racer
Great video, nice and easy to follow. Did you use a washer between your new spacer and the piston spring? I'm looking at metal tubing and I've seen one with a 2.5mm wall (15mm ID x 20mm OD), is this overkill?
Yeah I used a washer, I guess 2.5 would be fine, I'm no engineer but safer than a tube that would crumble if too thin
Do you recall what size the pipe diameter was that you used for the spacer?
I think it was 25mm, but always advisable to measure with callipers.
For The Bold - dreegez awesome thank you. I’ll just open them up and measure them next week when my clip on handle bars get here
what if i add a spacer and don't cut the spring? it will still shorten it but then the fork will be a lot stiffer right?
would u advise doing this? im just a little weary about cutting the spring lol
Yeah I would advise that first
Did you cut 50MM off the spring as well (ie. 50mm off spacer, the actually fork, and the spring)?
I only cut 50mm off the spring. I added a 50mm spacer, and left the fork itself the same size, as that is automatically shortened by the spacer.
What was the original length of your tube before you shorten it to 50mm (~2in). Did you use any hardware store steel pipe as your spacer? Thanks. I was planning on doing the same.
To be honest I can't remember, as for the spacer, just a standard pipe, nothing special
I have the same setup for my yamaha xs750. Its a real pain to open those forks up, since I have them opened I thought about shortening the forks before buttoning them back up. Looking back at them now, do you have any issues with the spring rebound? Should just buy new springs for the right height?
Btw I really enjoy your videos. Gets me in the garage to finish mine up! Keep it up.
Hey there, I have the same bike as you and am tryng to figure out what I want to do with the front end. Does shortening the forks allow for better handling? Or did you just do it for the aesthetics?
Mostly for aesthetics, it does affect the handling but with changing the handlebars and the sitting position it's hard to tell by how much.
This has improved I’ve gotta say.
I’ve ridden other stock GS bikes in the past.
My spacers are at the top of the fork. First thing to come out when the cap is off. Essentially if i cut 50mm off of those spacers the forks should shorten by 50mm right? Ideally leaving the springs as they are
What model is your bike, I can't see how spacers at the top would work, only stiffen the forks.
For The Bold - dreegez '82 honda v45 Sabre my thoughts are that the spacer just keeps the forks extended a certain length. So if i just take 50 mm away, it'll be shorter 50 mm when weight is on it. The stiffnesss only has to do with the spring.
So I still have a few of questions
1. I'm struggling finding a tube that fits in the forks for a spacer, what did you use?
2. Where do I get shorter cables that will work for this bike? I need 33in throttles and 40 in clutch
You can get any steel tube at any diameter to fit. And talk to Dime City Cycles for custom cables
@@forthebold I'm struggling finding any, I'll have to check online
What are these spark plugs you are using to see the spark??
Thanks alot man
And how much fork oil for the gs550 after spring chop?
Hey dude, do you think this method would work on a Honda CG 125? Seem to have similar internals...
+Rob Pittaway Looking at the schematics online you should be able to but best not to make the internal spring too short, best thing to to open it up first, and have a good think before you start cutting it up.
+dreegez Cheers bud, good call. I'll tear them down and have a good gander.
HI AGAIN,so if i cut off 2" dont i have to mess with the bottom part.thank you again.....
It’s the bottom part you’re lengthening. Not the top. I would advise to do a bit of research before start doing anything. All you’re doing is adding a spacer inside to shorten
thank you my friend....
Dude, you got oil on the garden table. You are in trouble now...
Of course.
What about 80mm? Is it too much?
Way too much
But whem you cut the springs the ends are not closed and ground anymore (Hope my destription is understandable. I'm from Germany.) Am I right?
Isn't this problem?
You'll need to grind them flat afterwards yes :)
Hi great work. would it be the same on most bikes .I am thinking of doing a Bmw r75"bobber" that will need approx. 3 and a half inches lowered forks. its going to be my `st ever bike build .Steve
pretty similar on most spring based absorbers. good luck with your BMW
Thanks very much .
Steve
What do you use to edit? And awesome build.
Thank you. I use After Effects
Thank you will you do any car builds in the future?
FlatSixWeapon I would love to do a Datsun 250z one day but I think my budget would be 10 fold
+dreegez ok
I bet your missus wasn't happy you getting fork spring oil on the garden furniture.
Ha ha.
Good way to get hot Balls/ fire balls
The only way for fire balls.
where can you get one of those tool kits?
Most hardware stores, or automotive, like Halfords.
What happens if you just shorten the spring and put it back?
The forks will be the same length and you won't have as much stiffness, it'll be really soft and bouncy,
Does this apply to a Honda Cb650?
I'm pretty sure it does.
Where are u based? I’m about to buy a GS. Fancy shortening my forks for me? Lol
Sorry I don’t do work for other people.
wanted to lower mine by 10-15mm but thats way to much work for such a tiny lowering
Just move it up the triple tree for 10mm
@@forthebold true . Need to measure if the Fender doesnt hit the lower tripple then
@@forthebold would giving 10mm more preload work when the fender Hits the lower tree ?
fabiano if you think you’re going to have any issues then it’s not worth it over 10mm as it’ll hardly be any visible difference.
@@forthebold true . will see once the lock down is over
Hi there! Been watching your build videos for a while and they've been extremely helpful. Working on a '87 GS450L and was wondering if it's possible to replace rear shocks with something 40-60mm longer instead of cutting front forks to get that more aggressive stance? I haven't found anyone online doing that so I was wondering if I'm missing something important. I'm 6'1" and I'd like to increase my seat height if possible (2 inches if I can get it) vs. bend my legs 90+ degrees. Appreciate any help!
Yeah you can get longer shocks, I'm 6'4. it's an easy swap and I've done it with other bikes
hi can you tell me how the bike gets if you cut off 50mm ........im trying to get my bike 4inches off the floor ...so would i have
cut even more of to get it that low or do i make a spacer longer than 50mm...i would love to hear your comment on this thanks
50mm would be the max I'd take off. I wouldn't add a spacer longer than that either, that would increase your stiffness. The only way is to lower your forks in the triple tree / yolk or buy shorter forks.
thanks mate for the advice
Hey thanks for your great videos! They really help a lot. One question with lowering front forks though:
If you cut the springs to be shorter don't you have less spring "power"? Wouldnt you need harder springs to compensate for that? Id imagine the forks would be too soft or even not work at all?
By shortening the spring, and the overall length, you still have the same tension. If you were to shorten without cutting the spring, your tension would be greater and stiffer
+dreegez thank you very much for your answer! i somehow ignored that you shortened the whole Tube Not just the springs. thank now its clear :)
Great video, must be nice to be able spill oil all over your picnic table my Dad would FREAK!!!
Luckily I don't have those worries.
Kin hell, is your hobby neuro- surgery? is your nickname "the knowledge" ? I'm contemplating a Kawasaki 440 build but your video series is making me second guess myself
+Colin Patience Go for it, all i've done over the years is learning by mistakes
The Suzuki GS550 is the shittiest bike I have ever ridden.
+Johnny Bravoo it's a good job you don't have to ride this one ;)