Implementing Hall Effect design/tech joysticks if available, now or later, for example the Switch can be replaced with these. Hopefully they’d be willing to start using this tech instead in the future. otherwise for the time being some of this kind of DIY will have to suffice for now.
Notice they put the motor wire solder points right in the centre of the potentiometer solder points to try to stop the use of 3x3mm screw 🪛 actuation recalibration trim pots for your deadspots 🎯 position & max circularity 🕳️ size adjustment of the whole response curve range 😂🤣😭, what total w⚓'s they / them are 🤤🫠😉. I'm onto them these critically thinking 🤔 🧐 eyes 👁️👁️😵💫 won't quit 👍🏻🎮🕹️🎯👍🏻 😉 lol. They / them used 2k3 low resistance potentiometers for the same reason, to obfuscate parts selection from the previous generation, but when they go wrong the low resistance pots they go wrong so much more dramatically 🫠🙃🥴 they flip right off there axis ☯️ point 🧭 👀🥹, that's a con-theory well spotted 🧐🔍 there folks & my very own opinion 😬🫡, it's a free public service of mine to turf the build back butter 🧈🫠 🐂💩 where I find it. Sing it with me 🎙️ "Shovel shovel all day long theres another bucket 🪣 of 💩🎮🕹️🗑️ minimum viable disruptive technology" 😜. (The mad hatter 🎩 said it needs more mustard 🍯 spread in it, to many gears ⚙️ that's the problem ⚒️ 👀 don't listen 🦻🏻 to him he's not a watch ⌚ maker everything he says should be taken with a pinch 🤌🏻 of salt 🧂, sorry my creative side just woke up again.) Am I wrong think 🤔 or absolutely spot 🎯 on 🤤, you 🫵🏻 decide lol... Just smile 😁 & nod 🐕🐶 everybody else does 🤷🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️🙍🏼♂️...
@@GOATGamerProSticks The trimmer potentiometer boards are useless, we never used them to begin with because they drastically lower your stick maximum operating area since they offset the potentiometer's hard-left to hard-right movement readings, which will result in some games having broken selection menus and others you will lose full motion speed when panning / moving.
@@FrozenHaxor Your doing it wrong, the trick is to use higher resistance main Potentiometer pot sides & see 🥺😳🥹 my extensive works for the correct recalibration 3x3mm trim pot selection values, you have to Taylor the trim pot resistance to the main pots resistance for the max circularity to still reach full 💯%, it can be done & still grant you on the fly screw 🪛 driver recalibration. Trust me on this I've done the home work 📜 lol 😉. I've got XBox one elites series 2 pots in a DS4 via the same resistance recalibration method 🎮🕹️🕹️🎚️🎛️🎯🎯🪛 granting myself stick 🕹️ tension screw driver 🪛 adjustment all at once. There's no way of being modest about it, it's done & done 👍🏻👍🏻😬🤐 why don't anybody believe me 😂🤣😭 lol...
Cheers for that! I changed the potentiometer and it fixed the drag, but the stick wasn’t moving smoothly. Ended up changing the hole analog module(which was my first intuition), took me about an hour, I hadn’t touched a soldering iron since shop-class. Bought a basic soldering kit and the modules for 20£ off amazon.
@iosif4619 did you manage to get the whole analog module off with just a soldering kit? I’ve heard people say it’s pretty difficult to take off without other tools
Great guide for disassembling a controller. I will point out for us complete noobs that @2:05 there's a cut and he says "now we just take the motherboard and flip it to the other side..." but what wasn't shown was that there is another ribbon cable to detach at the top right of the board (next to the USB-C connector), before you can flip the board over.
Thank you! I was so close to buying the DualSense Edge until I saw this video. All I needed to do was clean my Dualsense wipers and the drift is fixed :D
Dont bay edge also have seme potentiometr and same problem not spend money for another trash quality from sony, my 18 years dual shock from psx still work 0 problem with analog... Now all electronic is just junk...
I've got a controller that's out of warranty anyway, so I've got nothing to lose but time and maybe some solder. Thanks for the vid man, I'll let you know if I'm successful or not
@@Rem694u2 lmao nah, I screwed up my controller 😂 But it was definitely worth a try, and now I have a controller I can practice on if I ever decide to try again
I bought a second controller rather than trying to fix it a year ago but now my second controller has drift too. It’s time to bite the bullet. I’ve fixed switch controllers and iPhone screens before but I’ve only done basic soldering so I’ll try to wipers first.
The discoloration in potentiometer is the wearing of the wiper tines that are on that white piece . I just took mine apart. To find that those tines had worn away and broke off. Scratching the black areas through to copper just underneath that black coat. I think as long as the potentiometer black surfaces are not warn through like this guys is your safe just swapping the white piece, but If the potentiometer side is showing wearing and metal is visible then the potentiometer needs to be replaced. Also you need a magnifying glass to see the tines on the white piece you see how warn they are. That piece is the weakest link in the whole system
You are 100% correct. My 1.5 years old dualsense developed jerkiness a couple of days ago, so today I took it apart and looked inside the potentiometers. In one of them, one of the tines was missing a couple of millimetres off the tip, and the remaining tip was also twisted off to the side somehow. Cleaning it did nothing to help, obviously. I ordered some pot modules off AE to do a replacement. I don't have the experience, equipment, or skills to do any soldering, but hopefully replacing the wiper will revive the controller for a while.
Thanks for the video I was about to do the soldering part with my controller but I needed to see someone doing it to get the idea looks easy not that it is but I am more confident that I can do it I don't have nothing to lose trying because I have already a new one and if I do it right who knows maybe I start repairing for more gamers like us 😂
This was perfect! Thank you! I tried the reset, tried the firmware update, even mailed it back to Sony (didn't work). Just had to clean the crud inside the potentiometer and I have my controller back!
hey man, i was about to buy new joystick replacement until i saw this video and replaced the original wiper with one from an old PS4 controller and it worked perfectly, thanks!
Thanks it works big time. The little gadget cost way too cheap compare to getting a new controller. Just replace the potential meter ring as compared to soldering for an entire new one, soldering requires too in depth skills, 😂 power video and guide, 👍💪
yep. replacing just the little metal ring inside of the potentiometer accomplishes the same thing without needing to solder anything. solid video regardless!
@@capitalr8649 it's apparently called a wiper. it's the only metal piece inside of the potentiometer. it's attached to that white plastic piece. replacing that white plastic piece w/ the attached wiper will accomplish the same thing that replacing the whole potentiometer does.
@@nakedcutepotato5884 it was neither decent nor expertly. He badly needs to heat both surfaces and keep them heated for at least 3 seconds while letting the solder flow and find its way on both surfaces.
Micro soldering, reballing etc is difficult...this sort of soldering is child's play like literally if you trusted a toddler with a 400 degree iron he could do it, this video is just showing you what to replace and how the soldering is not the showcase
Thank you so much for this video. I am DIY when it comes to my controllers since they are so expensive i want them to last and i play a lot of shooting games therefore i had a minor drift only when aiming and shooting, the stick would jump at a random time. Thank you for posting the links as well. Super helpful!
This video was a big help, but after watching it in its entirety there is one key detail to note when you put the wipers back inside the potentiometers. MAKE SURE THOSE RINGS ARE NOT UPSIDE DOWN when you put the new ones in. There are two sets of white dots, one close one wide that act as indicators on how they should be placed back into the potentiometer casing. The wide spaced dots should be facing up and the small spaced dots should be facing down. otherwise you will mess up your deadzone reading and make the drift worse till you mount the wipers back in the right way.
Thanks for showing this. I don’t have the “idle” drift that people have. I have more of a tilt drift meaning when I tilt my left stick up, according to controller test in astrobot, it shakes up and down. Was debating of changing the whole module when I could just change the part of the module that controls the up and down potentiometer. Really hope someone makes regular controller hall sticks.
That was some what stressful, but this video helped a lot. What Sony did with the ps5 controllers is just nonsense, everyone having the same problem with the same stick I was definitely not going to buy new controllers(yep both had the same problem) I’ll fix the other controller tomorrow this procedure really took a lot out of me trying not to damage anything in the process
I was looking on Amazon for a soldering kit today and was wondering what that mesh wire was for 😂 thanks! I'm going to Gamestop to replace my controller under warranty but i also found my original ps5 controller today so i decided to see why i had it stashed. Has drift on right thumbstick going left. If I can find the potentiameter I'll replace that myself. Thanks for showing us the steps 👍 Earned my sub!
Drift happen after i plug the controller to phone charger, fastcharge one, im not sure whether or not it causing burn or something that left debri on the analog module. cleaning the potentiometer and wiper do works! thank you!
I’m starting to have some serious drift issues in mine, this video helped me a lot! I’m going to grab some extra modules and try to replace them just like you. Subbed 👍🏻
@samuraiman7777 I did manage to fix the drift but a new problem came up, I think something is either broken or stuck under the inside of the stick, the analog doesn’t re-center itself well when pressed up and to the right. It kind of sticks, but with some assistance, it goes back to center. But yeah the drift is completely gone otherwise.
@samuraiman7777 Yeah the other issue is a bit tougher, I’ll need to completely de-solder the entire module to see what’s wrong. Worst comes to worst, I’ll have to buy a new module, but that’ll come later on. For the time being, I bought one of the all-black controllers so I can still game with a proper controller.
@PogChamp! I feel the same way about beyond my expertise. But it wasn't bad at all. I cleaned it with isoproplyl 91% alcohol and a q-tip and so far it went from nearly unplayable to un-noticeable. $70 is a new game. These things shouldn't break this easy. Imo they are designed to. They want you to have to buy a new one. Again and again. Sony probably hates these videos. I don't understand what you have to lose? I was ready to buy a new one but figured i might as well try this first. If i screw up the controller, it'd be screwing up an already screwed up controller. Now i'll buy a game with that money.
Thanks, i broke dead two controllers, but at least drift issue was solved UPD. I replaced some parts from one controller to another and now have at least one fully working (without drifting). And by the way, for the third one i decided to not open him and just used contact cleaner and dust blower on the stick gaps, it worked as well. But the third one has a smaller drift issue, still, as i said, it worked, it has no drift issue at all now, and I didn't break anything with that one. Hooray 😂 THANKS MAN, REALLY!
Those scrapes in the track are the problem. The metal on the wiper can turn jagged and sharp from where and scrape away at the track. I have had the same issue.
If you want to, you can use a stick drift kit, yes they’re like $20 but over time, the other parts may give in, with the kit you can easily unscrew and adjust and calibrate it and bam, all done won’t have to do the whole process again
I replaced the little metal thing inside the potentiometer and it made things slightly better, but it made it worst while moving up and left.. i took the metal thing out, looked inside the green housing and noticed that the black outer ring is scratched up really badly ! I am going see if i can de solder the green housing and replace it with a brand new one.
Maybe i’m wrong, but if you’re going through the effort of soldering off the potentiometer wouldn’t it just be worth it at that point to replace the whole thing with a halls effect?
Soldered on a new pad and replaced wiper but still has constant drift to the left... I just give up at this point. Thank you for the video though as I'm sure it works for most.
Thank you very much for the video, can I ask you a question? When analog is not centered, its not drifting, just its little bit to the left/right/up/down, so its not centered, shoulg i change whole analoge, or only these potentiometer which its leaning more up/down or left/right
I know this video is 8 months I got 2 pads woth my ps5 when I went to use the second I pulled the left stick up and with only 30 mins of play it'likr stick drift could it be great vid big thanks
I’ve done this twice now and once to the DualShock 4 and every time the stick drift is completely gone but the joystick isn’t as responsive. I have to move the stick more to register the input. What am I doing wrong?
Yesterday I successfully deconstructed my Scuff Reflex thanks to this video! My left analog stick has some bad drift. When I got to the potentiometer though the green caps wouldn't budge. I used a small flat screwdriver for about 15 minutes trying to get it off. It seems like it might be bonded by an adhesive? Do you have any tips for how to remove it?
They should easy come off with a flat head with enough pressure. I've never messed around with a SCUF, I'm not sure if they are using the same type of potentiometers
I took apart a buddies scuff to fix a ribbon cable completely unrelated to stick drift but when i was looking around i noticed what looked like to be a dab of adhesive on the cap for the potentiometer curious if this is a common scuff thing as i have also never seen that or taken one apart before
Do you know if the wiper is what's wearing out faster or the resistor ring? Have you done multiple of these repairs? Great video, by the way. Compared to most others, which literally just take the cover off and q tip the top of the module, which in fact does nothing because the problem is much deeper. I have this issue on a series x controller, and, more recently, my xbox One elite controller has started to do the same thing. I blame my kids and their grubby fingers. I just got a new controller, but I think I'll give this a shot
Check my channel for Xbox controller repair. From my experience Changning the wiper and cleaning fixes the problem. If not then the potentiometer needs to be replaced
What is the difference between the white potentiometer sensor and the black one? I have a rig nacon revolution x that had stick drift. I used a sensor from an Xbox s controller(2022) I never used in attempt to fix it. The sensor didn’t snap into place and seemed like the mechanical movement wasn’t the same as the original white sensor that was in the nacon, like it wasn’t in perfect tandem. When I tried it out, the up and down axis wasn’t even functioning. Just pointing down. After I saw this video I cleaned the potentiometer track and reinstalled the original sensor and it fixed it.
I’ll solder the new potentiometer on mine. I feel replacing one part only will cause the drift to come back quick. If I mess up, not bothered as the controllers unusable and out of warranty anyway and will be a solder learning experience. Edit: I followed and the black part is hard to get of, plus once I got in I bent the potentiometer piece too much trying to pry it only a little.
But I think this would not solve my usual problem where the potentiometers do not stay still even when the stick is moved and stopped in one direction (the values do not stay still at -0.12, but "vibrate" from -0.4 to 0.20 for example). What could be in that case? It happens punctually after 6-12 months of using the gamepad. Thanks
FOR NOVICES LIKE MYSELF Just gonna let y'all know now. I had some jittery stick drift (IFYKYK AND ITS FUCKING ANNOYING) I got to the P meter and swapped out the white piece with the gold ring with another white piece with a gold ring from another controller and it 100% fixed my problem. You DONT need to clean the Green Circle. I self taught how to take apart my controller by watching videos and doing it numerous times. It gets easier guys and you get less scared of breaking shit lol. Hope this helps y'all. :)
love the video, step by step ! in the video you have some tool i dont't familiated with, like the yellowish glue thing & the yellow copper like strip, can i have the name what it is called i can order from amazon? thanks
@Gamer2Know what are the black and red wires for? if u break the end of it can you use wire cutters to help fix that and then solder the wires back. DO you need the black and red wires?
I believe they are for trigger buttons and motors connected to the motherboard. You can remove them and then solder back which I did in the video when taking off the MB
Im trying this, Im no soldering expert but my controller's drift seems to be coming from the inner ring of the potentiometer being worn and not an issue with the wiper sadly.
I tried cleaning my vertical potentiometer, and it worked well for a couple weeks. Now cleaning doesn't help, so I replaced the entire potentiometer. Now it pulls down when the stick moves right or left, which is puzzling. Any ideas? Any chance I failed to make a solder connection on one of the three pins?
That software in the beginning, showing the drift of the analog stick on your laptop screen. What program is that? It looks very useful!
gamepad-tester.com
Implementing Hall Effect design/tech joysticks if available, now or later, for example the Switch can be replaced with these. Hopefully they’d be willing to start using this tech instead in the future. otherwise for the time being some of this kind of DIY will have to suffice for now.
Notice they put the motor wire solder points right in the centre of the potentiometer solder points to try to stop the use of 3x3mm screw 🪛 actuation recalibration trim pots for your deadspots 🎯 position & max circularity 🕳️ size adjustment of the whole response curve range 😂🤣😭, what total w⚓'s they / them are 🤤🫠😉.
I'm onto them these critically thinking 🤔 🧐 eyes 👁️👁️😵💫 won't quit 👍🏻🎮🕹️🎯👍🏻 😉 lol.
They / them used 2k3 low resistance potentiometers for the same reason, to obfuscate parts selection from the previous generation, but when they go wrong the low resistance pots they go wrong so much more dramatically 🫠🙃🥴 they flip right off there axis ☯️ point 🧭 👀🥹, that's a con-theory well spotted 🧐🔍 there folks & my very own opinion 😬🫡, it's a free public service of mine to turf the build back butter 🧈🫠 🐂💩 where I find it.
Sing it with me 🎙️ "Shovel shovel all day long theres another bucket 🪣 of 💩🎮🕹️🗑️ minimum viable disruptive technology" 😜.
(The mad hatter 🎩 said it needs more mustard 🍯 spread in it, to many gears ⚙️ that's the problem ⚒️ 👀 don't listen 🦻🏻 to him he's not a watch ⌚ maker everything he says should be taken with a pinch 🤌🏻 of salt 🧂, sorry my creative side just woke up again.)
Am I wrong think 🤔 or absolutely spot 🎯 on 🤤, you 🫵🏻 decide lol...
Just smile 😁 & nod 🐕🐶 everybody else does 🤷🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️🙍🏼♂️...
@@GOATGamerProSticks The trimmer potentiometer boards are useless, we never used them to begin with because they drastically lower your stick maximum operating area since they offset the potentiometer's hard-left to hard-right movement readings, which will result in some games having broken selection menus and others you will lose full motion speed when panning / moving.
@@FrozenHaxor Your doing it wrong, the trick is to use higher resistance main Potentiometer pot sides & see 🥺😳🥹 my extensive works for the correct recalibration 3x3mm trim pot selection values, you have to Taylor the trim pot resistance to the main pots resistance for the max circularity to still reach full 💯%, it can be done & still grant you on the fly screw 🪛 driver recalibration.
Trust me on this I've done the home work 📜 lol 😉.
I've got XBox one elites series 2 pots in a DS4 via the same resistance recalibration method 🎮🕹️🕹️🎚️🎛️🎯🎯🪛 granting myself stick 🕹️ tension screw driver 🪛 adjustment all at once.
There's no way of being modest about it, it's done & done 👍🏻👍🏻😬🤐 why don't anybody believe me 😂🤣😭 lol...
Cheers for that!
I changed the potentiometer and it fixed the drag, but the stick wasn’t moving smoothly. Ended up changing the hole analog module(which was my first intuition), took me about an hour, I hadn’t touched a soldering iron since shop-class.
Bought a basic soldering kit and the modules for 20£ off amazon.
@iosif4619 did you manage to get the whole analog module off with just a soldering kit? I’ve heard people say it’s pretty difficult to take off without other tools
Great guide for disassembling a controller. I will point out for us complete noobs that @2:05 there's a cut and he says "now we just take the motherboard and flip it to the other side..." but what wasn't shown was that there is another ribbon cable to detach at the top right of the board (next to the USB-C connector), before you can flip the board over.
Thank you! I was so close to buying the DualSense Edge until I saw this video. All I needed to do was clean my Dualsense wipers and the drift is fixed :D
Dont bay edge also have seme potentiometr and same problem not spend money for another trash quality from sony, my 18 years dual shock from psx still work 0 problem with analog... Now all electronic is just junk...
Thanks, easier than replacing the entire analog stick.
Now it works like a charm
I've got a controller that's out of warranty anyway, so I've got nothing to lose but time and maybe some solder. Thanks for the vid man, I'll let you know if I'm successful or not
Any luck? :)
@@Rem694u2 lmao nah, I screwed up my controller 😂 But it was definitely worth a try, and now I have a controller I can practice on if I ever decide to try again
@@michaelc5373 Yeah, you had nothing to lose but experience.
I bought a second controller rather than trying to fix it a year ago but now my second controller has drift too.
It’s time to bite the bullet. I’ve fixed switch controllers and iPhone screens before but I’ve only done basic soldering so I’ll try to wipers first.
Did you fix it
Dude this was great help!!! And as a fellow gamer, you make us proud! Putting in my order so I can learn! Again thanks a million dude!
The discoloration in potentiometer is the wearing of the wiper tines that are on that white piece . I just took mine apart. To find that those tines had worn away and broke off. Scratching the black areas through to copper just underneath that black coat. I think as long as the potentiometer black surfaces are not warn through like this guys is your safe just swapping the white piece, but If the potentiometer side is showing wearing and metal is visible then the potentiometer needs to be replaced. Also you need a magnifying glass to see the tines on the white piece you see how warn they are. That piece is the weakest link in the whole system
You are 100% correct. My 1.5 years old dualsense developed jerkiness a couple of days ago, so today I took it apart and looked inside the potentiometers. In one of them, one of the tines was missing a couple of millimetres off the tip, and the remaining tip was also twisted off to the side somehow. Cleaning it did nothing to help, obviously. I ordered some pot modules off AE to do a replacement. I don't have the experience, equipment, or skills to do any soldering, but hopefully replacing the wiper will revive the controller for a while.
@@KeiBrightwing let us know how it worked out . What are the specs of the potentiometer you used.
@@randumdude5824 No idea about the specs. I just ordered a bag of 50 pots compatible with the dualsense.
@@KeiBrightwing the resistance of the new wipers may vary part to part. So if you have drift after installing a new one. Just try different ones .
@@randumdude5824 Thanks for the warning. I'll keep it in mind.
Thank you so much! Opened both potentiometer tabs and blew compressed air inside of the and problem solved. No more stick drift.🎉
Very good video, I had problem with ps5 left analog (very annoying drifting backwards) now it is 100% fixed ( non solder method ). Thank you.
Thanks for the video I was about to do the soldering part with my controller but I needed to see someone doing it to get the idea looks easy not that it is but I am more confident that I can do it I don't have nothing to lose trying because I have already a new one and if I do it right who knows maybe I start repairing for more gamers like us 😂
This was perfect! Thank you!
I tried the reset, tried the firmware update, even mailed it back to Sony (didn't work).
Just had to clean the crud inside the potentiometer and I have my controller back!
First video out of at least 15 stick drift videos I’ve watched that showed how to determine if the track was faulty. Thanks!
hey man, i was about to buy new joystick replacement until i saw this video and replaced the original wiper with one from an old PS4 controller and it worked perfectly, thanks!
Great idea to swap out just the potentiometer instead of the whole joystick module. Can do this twice with one new module. Thank you for sharing this.
Thanks it works big time. The little gadget cost way too cheap compare to getting a new controller. Just replace the potential meter ring as compared to soldering for an entire new one, soldering requires too in depth skills, 😂 power video and guide, 👍💪
yep. replacing just the little metal ring inside of the potentiometer accomplishes the same thing without needing to solder anything. solid video regardless!
@@MrRu13s meter ring?? Are you referring to the track?
@@capitalr8649 it's apparently called a wiper. it's the only metal piece inside of the potentiometer. it's attached to that white plastic piece. replacing that white plastic piece w/ the attached wiper will accomplish the same thing that replacing the whole potentiometer does.
@@capitalr8649 I didn't need to do anything to the track to fix my stick drift.
@@MrRu13s ok thanks. Bout to order now!!
"Im no soldering expert"
Proceeds to expertly solder the pins
no it wasn't from what I can see it's pretty decent but not "expertly" to say the least.
@@nakedcutepotato5884 it was neither decent nor expertly. He badly needs to heat both surfaces and keep them heated for at least 3 seconds while letting the solder flow and find its way on both surfaces.
Micro soldering, reballing etc is difficult...this sort of soldering is child's play like literally if you trusted a toddler with a 400 degree iron he could do it, this video is just showing you what to replace and how the soldering is not the showcase
@@troyg1337 Ok soldering Jesus, chill
Thank you so much for this video. I am DIY when it comes to my controllers since they are so expensive i want them to last and i play a lot of shooting games therefore i had a minor drift only when aiming and shooting, the stick would jump at a random time. Thank you for posting the links as well. Super helpful!
This video will serve as an excellent guide, when I finally replace the potentiometers with hall-effect sensors next month. Thank you. 🙏
Thanks to this video I manage to fix my old PS5 controller. 👌🏾👍🏾
This video was a big help, but after watching it in its entirety there is one key detail to note when you put the wipers back inside the potentiometers. MAKE SURE THOSE RINGS ARE NOT UPSIDE DOWN when you put the new ones in. There are two sets of white dots, one close one wide that act as indicators on how they should be placed back into the potentiometer casing. The wide spaced dots should be facing up and the small spaced dots should be facing down. otherwise you will mess up your deadzone reading and make the drift worse till you mount the wipers back in the right way.
Excellent video!! Your explanation and process is top tier!!! Thank you !! And thank you for the motivation to solder.
Thanks for showing this. I don’t have the “idle” drift that people have. I have more of a tilt drift meaning when I tilt my left stick up, according to controller test in astrobot, it shakes up and down. Was debating of changing the whole module when I could just change the part of the module that controls the up and down potentiometer. Really hope someone makes regular controller hall sticks.
Best tutorial I've found so far, thanks dude!
That was some what stressful, but this video helped a lot.
What Sony did with the ps5 controllers is just nonsense, everyone having the same problem with the same stick I was definitely not going to buy new controllers(yep both had the same problem)
I’ll fix the other controller tomorrow this procedure really took a lot out of me trying not to damage anything in the process
i fixed my xbox one controller left stick drift Thx! (verical drift and clean sensor )
I was looking on Amazon for a soldering kit today and was wondering what that mesh wire was for 😂 thanks! I'm going to Gamestop to replace my controller under warranty but i also found my original ps5 controller today so i decided to see why i had it stashed. Has drift on right thumbstick going left. If I can find the potentiameter I'll replace that myself. Thanks for showing us the steps 👍 Earned my sub!
The braided cable is to absorb old solder
Beautiful! I'm about to do this fix in two joysticks
Drift happen after i plug the controller to phone charger, fastcharge one, im not sure whether or not it causing burn or something that left debri on the analog module. cleaning the potentiometer and wiper do works! thank you!
I’m starting to have some serious drift issues in mine, this video helped me a lot! I’m going to grab some extra modules and try to replace them just like you.
Subbed 👍🏻
@samuraiman7777
I did manage to fix the drift but a new problem came up, I think something is either broken or stuck under the inside of the stick, the analog doesn’t re-center itself well when pressed up and to the right. It kind of sticks, but with some assistance, it goes back to center. But yeah the drift is completely gone otherwise.
@samuraiman7777
Yeah the other issue is a bit tougher, I’ll need to completely de-solder the entire module to see what’s wrong. Worst comes to worst, I’ll have to buy a new module, but that’ll come later on. For the time being, I bought one of the all-black controllers so I can still game with a proper controller.
@PogChamp! I feel the same way about beyond my expertise. But it wasn't bad at all. I cleaned it with isoproplyl 91% alcohol and a q-tip and so far it went from nearly unplayable to un-noticeable. $70 is a new game. These things shouldn't break this easy. Imo they are designed to. They want you to have to buy a new one. Again and again. Sony probably hates these videos. I don't understand what you have to lose? I was ready to buy a new one but figured i might as well try this first. If i screw up the controller, it'd be screwing up an already screwed up controller. Now i'll buy a game with that money.
@PogChamp! U can buy a ribbon connector. Just practice on that broken so u have experience once your new controller starts having issues.
Implementing Hall Effect design/tech joysticks if available, now or later, for example the Switch can be replaced with these.
Thanks, i broke dead two controllers, but at least drift issue was solved
UPD. I replaced some parts from one controller to another and now have at least one fully working (without drifting). And by the way, for the third one i decided to not open him and just used contact cleaner and dust blower on the stick gaps, it worked as well. But the third one has a smaller drift issue, still, as i said, it worked, it has no drift issue at all now, and I didn't break anything with that one. Hooray 😂
THANKS MAN, REALLY!
Wow works like magic, thank you Brav
Thank you bro keep it up .... Look into hall efect pontiometer
What's the name of this type of tape that you used to remove the weld properly?
Thank you so much ,for taking your time to post this video
This is so helpful and so ASMR 😅. Thank you very much indeed!
Damn....thanks man learned a lot, now its time for practical👍🏼👍🏼
Excellent work man. You're the best 👍🏽
Thanks so much! The second method worked great on my xbox controller.
Those scrapes in the track are the problem. The metal on the wiper can turn jagged and sharp from where and scrape away at the track. I have had the same issue.
good job. Just change your rosin which burns too easily or lower the temperature of the tip :)
Yeah I don’t trust myself doing this method😂The first method seems pretty easy so I’ll try that one
It works. Thanks man
a lot of my friends are having this issue with their controllers. i'll be sharing this vid to them hopefully this helps them repair their controllers.
PHEW! Something I can do. Thanks.
What’s the flat wire thing called do i need it or can i just use a regular wire i have and flatten it?
If you want to, you can use a stick drift kit, yes they’re like $20 but over time, the other parts may give in, with the kit you can easily unscrew and adjust and calibrate it and bam, all done won’t have to do the whole process again
Mate i wood no how to do that but am hopeful get mine fix today 😮
Brilliant this is perfect controller good again
I replaced the little metal thing inside the potentiometer and it made things slightly better, but it made it worst while moving up and left.. i took the metal thing out, looked inside the green housing and noticed that the black outer ring is scratched up really badly ! I am going see if i can de solder the green housing and replace it with a brand new one.
This was excellent man.
Thank you so much for providing this guide and tools
Maybe i’m wrong, but if you’re going through the effort of soldering off the potentiometer wouldn’t it just be worth it at that point to replace the whole thing with a halls effect?
Soldered on a new pad and replaced wiper but still has constant drift to the left... I just give up at this point. Thank you for the video though as I'm sure it works for most.
Sorry to hear it dude, I had a controller also whatever I tried it never got fixed
Thanks for the video It was very helpful
Thank you so much for this amazing video, very well made. Subbed!
i’m so happy thank you it worked ❤
Im happy it worked for you! :)
Really needed this because mine didn’t last a yr before this started. Thanks a lot
Thanks for the video, Good job....has the controller played up since doing this?
Hey, how does one unscrew themself once the tracks/contacts are messed up? Give sony more money?
Thank you very much for the video, can I ask you a question? When analog is not centered, its not drifting, just its little bit to the left/right/up/down, so its not centered, shoulg i change whole analoge, or only these potentiometer which its leaning more up/down or left/right
Nice tut man.
I know this video is 8 months I got 2 pads woth my ps5 when I went to use the second I pulled the left stick up and with only 30 mins of play it'likr stick drift could it be great vid big thanks
Thank you master
I’ve done this twice now and once to the DualShock 4 and every time the stick drift is completely gone but the joystick isn’t as responsive. I have to move the stick more to register the input. What am I doing wrong?
I’m talking about soldering btw. Cleaning the sensors alone only works for like a week or two before the drift gets worse than before
Calibrate it @@mcfriedchicken1972
Where can I get the new parts ? Last video you said they were cheap 10 for 15 $ I believe ?
Yesterday I successfully deconstructed my Scuff Reflex thanks to this video! My left analog stick has some bad drift. When I got to the potentiometer though the green caps wouldn't budge. I used a small flat screwdriver for about 15 minutes trying to get it off. It seems like it might be bonded by an adhesive? Do you have any tips for how to remove it?
They should easy come off with a flat head with enough pressure. I've never messed around with a SCUF, I'm not sure if they are using the same type of potentiometers
I took apart a buddies scuff to fix a ribbon cable completely unrelated to stick drift but when i was looking around i noticed what looked like to be a dab of adhesive on the cap for the potentiometer curious if this is a common scuff thing as i have also never seen that or taken one apart before
Great video exactly what I needed thank you
I can’t be the only person struggling to get the green things off. Literally the last step and I can figure out how to open it
Yes I'm struggle too
Why didnt you replace the stick with a halleffect knob?
Deserve a sub thankz
Good stuff but a heat gun works best these small heat guns
What’s the brush you use for cleaning the melted solder?
Thank You Man,you are the best !!!
May i ask whats the settings of watts or heat to this?
Do you know if the wiper is what's wearing out faster or the resistor ring? Have you done multiple of these repairs? Great video, by the way. Compared to most others, which literally just take the cover off and q tip the top of the module, which in fact does nothing because the problem is much deeper. I have this issue on a series x controller, and, more recently, my xbox One elite controller has started to do the same thing. I blame my kids and their grubby fingers.
I just got a new controller, but I think I'll give this a shot
Check my channel for Xbox controller repair. From my experience Changning the wiper and cleaning fixes the problem. If not then the potentiometer needs to be replaced
@@TheGamer2Know can you only get the wipers with the whole set of modules? Buy the modules and strip them for the wipers?
yea@@andrewroman4982
Hello, at 9:10, where did you get that holder for the board or how it's called
amzn.to/4gpMvoq Helping Hands Soldering Aid
@TheGamer2Know thanks
What is the difference between the white potentiometer sensor and the black one? I have a rig nacon revolution x that had stick drift. I used a sensor from an Xbox s controller(2022) I never used in attempt to fix it. The sensor didn’t snap into place and seemed like the mechanical movement wasn’t the same as the original white sensor that was in the nacon, like it wasn’t in perfect tandem. When I tried it out, the up and down axis wasn’t even functioning. Just pointing down. After I saw this video I cleaned the potentiometer track and reinstalled the original sensor and it fixed it.
my analog left stick feels loose now, is it because of the same problem? thank you
I’ll solder the new potentiometer on mine. I feel replacing one part only will cause the drift to come back quick. If I mess up, not bothered as the controllers unusable and out of warranty anyway and will be a solder learning experience. Edit: I followed and the black part is hard to get of, plus once I got in I bent the potentiometer piece too much trying to pry it only a little.
just wondering what if i replace the potentio to a different value?
But I think this would not solve my usual problem where the potentiometers do not stay still even when the stick is moved and stopped in one direction (the values do not stay still at -0.12, but "vibrate" from -0.4 to 0.20 for example). What could be in that case? It happens punctually after 6-12 months of using the gamepad.
Thanks
I can’t pry open the potentiometer 😭
FOR NOVICES LIKE MYSELF
Just gonna let y'all know now. I had some jittery stick drift (IFYKYK AND ITS FUCKING ANNOYING) I got to the P meter and swapped out the white piece with the gold ring with another white piece with a gold ring from another controller and it 100% fixed my problem. You DONT need to clean the Green Circle. I self taught how to take apart my controller by watching videos and doing it numerous times. It gets easier guys and you get less scared of breaking shit lol. Hope this helps y'all. :)
Any thoughts on why my potentiometer won't click back into place?
alignment?
love the video, step by step ! in the video you have some tool i dont't familiated with, like the yellowish glue thing & the yellow copper like strip, can i have the name what it is called i can order from amazon? thanks
I think you may be talking about the flaux paste syringe and soldering wick. The links for all
The stuff in the video is in the description
@Gamer2Know what are the black and red wires for? if u break the end of it can you use wire cutters to help fix that and then solder the wires back. DO you need the black and red wires?
I believe they are for trigger buttons and motors connected to the motherboard. You can remove them and then solder back which I did in the video when taking off the MB
@@TheGamer2Know ok nd what temp should I use the heat gun on Fahrenheit for the desolder I was gonna heat it up then solder suck the solder out
Im trying this, Im no soldering expert but my controller's drift seems to be coming from the inner ring of the potentiometer being worn and not an issue with the wiper sadly.
Thank you this help me.
great video! what software did you use to edit this?
FinalCut
What are the white pieces inside the potentiometers? May need to replace the whole thing, but i need this part
Wipers
Do I need to solder it for it to work?
Im just glad Sony in their infinite wisdom didn't decide to go with multiple different size security bits in the controller!
Thanks for the video I will be giving this a shot. Has anyone ever tried to put in some sort of lube in the tracks to improve them?
WD 40 is good solution
What if you just buy the white thing from inside and put the new one inside so I don’t have to do all that work ?
What temperature of heat you put on that soldering?
It would have to be around 360°F for it to melt
After taking it apart and putting it back together my left stick moves clunky do you know what that is ?
How do i know which potentiometer size I need?
What happens if you did separate the potentiometer from the board? I accidentally separated mine when I tried to lock after cleaning..
I tried cleaning my vertical potentiometer, and it worked well for a couple weeks. Now cleaning doesn't help, so I replaced the entire potentiometer. Now it pulls down when the stick moves right or left, which is puzzling. Any ideas? Any chance I failed to make a solder connection on one of the three pins?
Ever figure out your issue?