Stick a little bit of Floetrol in with the water based paint and it gives you a bit more working time with it. Same with Owatrol for oil based paints , goes on lovely . Synthetics are better than pure bristle in water based paints as well. Nice vid .👍
@@simonright1507 it's personal taste, pure bristle is better for oil based but you can use synthetic for oil as they are far better now than whst they used to be, I use synthetic and I've been a p and d for 37 years and I find them convenient as you can use them straight away without having to braik them in the other reason I use them is that a lot of the time it's water based paint I'm using not allways by choice I mite add .
Your cutting in is 👌👌. Brilliant white into a dark colour isn’t as easy as people think. If I hired a decorator and he got frog tape out his bag to do the cutting in I would tell him to get out my house. Brilliant mate.
I ended up buying this paint and using a pure bristle brush just like you did in this video. My results weren’t as great as your review of the paint. I undercoated twice with armstead trade paint and then applied two top coats and even three in some areas and the coverage was quite poor. There were a ton of brush marks from the pure bristle brush too. I switched to a synthetic brush and that was somewhat better. Overall, I wouldn’t purchase this paint again.
Please consider doing a video showing how you prepare trim for painting - it would be super helpful to see how you deal with trim that has been previously painted poorly. I know sanding and speckling may not be considered aesthetic, video-worthy subjects, but there are very few detailed, good videos devoted to them. Thanks for another superb video.
Another first class instructional video! I tend to use Purdy synthetic brushes....I never ever lose any bristles from them. Just my preference though. I'll give that paint a go for an upcoming job for a lady with breathing problems, as opposed to oil based. Normally I stick with Dulux but I just don't think it's anything to shout about any more. Thanks again mate....top work!
Try Tikkurila paints if you want a great quality waterborne paint. Also bin the natural bristled brushes in the waterbased. If you think armstead is good then you will be really impressed with better brands paints. Nice video 👍🏻
I work with waterbase undercoats all the time and glosses and they dry so quickly my method would to be to use a small scuttle and a hamilton medium piles 4 inch roller just to get it on quick and would defiantly use a dulux trade as they are far better than DIY store Shop paints and to get a great cut in use a purdy angle brush.
I hadn't realised water based satin won't go onto Dulux oil based undercoat. Lovely job undercoating the stairs so not happy. Should I just sand it all down or sand it and go over with a water based u/coat?
I had to re do my glossing after the painter I hired to do it just coated the wood work with emulsion first then used satin wood over the top of that? Looked so streaky and two toned it was horrendous! So I watched the video and done it myself! Thank you
Can you recommend a satin that's not water based that doesn't yellow. I've got a skirting board in my hall that gets bashed a lot, I need something resilient but don't like gloss or yellowing? Thanks.
crown trade oil satin and Albany oil satin don't seem to yellow had them both in the garage without uv light for around 6 years and still white on the side of the tins all the others dulux jono's have gone yellow Albany oil gloss and crown trade next gen oil gloss hold the white for a long time too for todays oil glosses
Green scourer, washing up liquid. Sorted. Never thought about the meths to get rid of the inground dirt/grime. I seen an official dulux or crown presentation and they recommended dampening the surface before painting.
The wiping with meths is a very good idea esp with doors as it removes all the grease from years of hands which can cause a paint defect called cissing. I haven't always done it and sometimes I have wasted time and money as a result.
For flush doors is it possible to use a miniroller? If so, what type is best for water based satin wood? I've always used special mini rollers for oil based satin wood and the finish comes up lovely.
Synthetic brushes are a must with water based paints. Because pure bristles draw moisture out of paint and can cause drag marks. Best to dampen brush first before applying paint. I also prefer to lay off To get rid of brush marks.
More control and faster painting using pure bristle... synthetic... it's in the name... keep it real. only reason they push synthetic brushes is because they are cheap to make... if you have not used pure bristle enough you wont understand.
I was pure bristle then went synthetic. Spent a lot of money only to find myself back to bristle. Whatever you feel happy with and works for you. No problems.
I want to do skirting, architraves etc but i dont want the pain of thick gloss. Can you recommend a paint that is like exterior satin but for indoors? I like the way exterior satin goes on quickly and i like the effect
I'm painting a pre varnished kitchen main door heavy traffic I've put 3 coats of 123 plus looks good for my top coat I was thinking of going with water base eggshell white to wipe down if dirty any advice on top coat .thanks
All depends on how much you have to do and other factors. We always like to lay the paint off with a brush for a smooth finish. So a brush is always needed roller optional..
Can you see any brush marks on the finish product once you have done two coats? I am interested in purchasing this paint for painting a set of fitted wardrobes but I’m unsure which satin based paint to go for.
My head gets frustrated with water based paints..I have done some test bits of skirting boards in varying light conditions in my house over the past two years and i am finding that some of these water based paints yellow too. I did one with armstead quick dry satin and after two years it has yellowed ever so slightly. Not much but definitely not as white as it was new. Homebase own water based gloss stayed the whitest of them all believe it or not lol although it not easy to get a good finish. . I have had a bit of skirting board in a dark cupboard for two years with dulux oil based gloss painted over a water based undercoat and it hasn’t yellowed too badly at all surprisingly. Sometimes I think the undercoat can effect the yellowing of the top coat. I sometimes go down the route of using oil on all jobs and just tell the customer that it needs redone every five years. I think all paints discolour and I’m tired fighting for a good water based alternative lol. I’m sticking with oil unless the customer can’t cope with the smell lol
Do you recommend using satin for all doors and trim? I typically use semi-gloss, and I like what you said about the advantages of satin, but do you find satin 'glossy' enough? thanks!
It's down to the person but satin sits better sometimes than gloss... takes longer to yellow if at all... water based is good better than gloss water based.
It depends on various factors including the kind of paint and the ambient temperature. I tend to roll doors with a 4" roller either foam or microfibre, and lay off with a brush. A panelled door takes 10 mins per side with this method. In hot weather you have to apply water-based top coats that much more quickly and the faster roller on & lay off with a brush really works best for me. That said, this week I've been painting with Johnstone's Aqua water based gloss and preferred using a thick-bristled 2" Hamilton as I didn't find the roller speeding things up much. Happy experimenting!
if it's oil based gloss, give it a good run down. Oil based satin/ or eggshell is self undercoating, so just two coats will be fine. If its an oil finish thats on and you want to move over to water based, I like to use a water based grip primer forst, then you can start going over with waterbased products without the fear of it peeling/coming away from the previous oil surface. There's a number of good base/grip undercaots on the market now. Remember, a lot of water based pain systems are one Uc, followed by two coats of the finish coat.
Thanks for this video. I didn't expect you to get it on UA-cam so quickly. Interesting about the Armstead paint and it has good reviews on Screwfix. But I was slightly concerned by one comment I saw, which said that it had slightly yellowed after a couple of years. As far as I can tell the Zinsser Perma-White satin doesn't yellow.
It doesn’t yellow at anywhere near the same rate as oil but it still does loose some of its whiteness. To be honest I think all paints discolour slightly. Even ceilings can discolour over time. I use oil for the finish it gives and use water based and waterborne paints if it’s a particularly dark room or the customer doesn’t like the smell or if the customer is happy for me to spend a lot of time changing their woodwork from oil to waterbased. But on most jobs I find dulux oil based gloss in white will stay white for a perfectly acceptable length of time especially over waterbased undercoat. Crown trade satin finish is also white and stays white for a good long time and its oil based. I have been back to jobs three and four years and it still looks white. I tend not to use brilliant white though I only use white so maybe this has something to do with it not going yellow as much. It’s a minefield but if I’m on a big hall stairs and landing that has been painted in oil before the last thing I want to do is charge the customer for me to paint 10 doors and frames and spindles all with three coats of waterbased paint when the advantages aren’t all that great considering it gets dirtier easier and doesn’t stay as white as u think. I’m happy with oil nice finish needs done in five years and wears well lol
@@stuartmcintosh7187 Thanks for your detailed reply. I'll probably persevere with the Zinsser Perma-White satin for the time being but I may go back to Dulux oil-based in the future.
Mark Rowland I have used the Zinsser perma white satin in my living room about three years ago and it is still nice and white too so it’s a good one. I like how it adheres to old oil based paints without having to use a primer!
@@PaintingandDecorating I'm a big fan of them too, use them whenever I can. Just always been advised to use synthetics in WB wood paint. But I'll take your word for it judging by the videos you put up on here.
Great video and Hamilton pure bristle brushes I find also great for this application. Used the armstead quick dry satin in my own living room a few years back..... still looks lovely and white.... just one drawback I find... it might just be me... but when I wipe off dirty hand prints from the door with a clean cloth. The paint feels a little sticky afterwards for a few days at least. Then returns to normal? Weird I know. Doors were keyed and prepped very well beforehand. And also the sun on the window cill tends to make the pint feel tacky also. Weird.
Quick question whats the name of that beautiful blue paint on the wall and can you paint over printed wall paper that you have to paste the wall instead of the paper? Im not sure but had enough of the wallpaper would appreciate a reply.
The colour is a Valspar colour called epic adventure.. and yes you can paint over wallpaper... thanks.. if you use the blue better to put it on a contract matt gray if you can..
@@PaintingandDecorating sorry but im not what you mean..why would i need to use a grey if you dont mind explaining.i was thinking i would maybe need to use primer as the wallpaper is black and has white flowers.its getting on my nerves now but i want to do it right hence im asking a pro
@@scorpionnetherrealm8937 Blue is a difficult colour to use maybe because lack of pigment... 4 coats that was going on white granted... but 4 coats... but a grey back ground it may go in two coats... may work on your black first paint the white flowers out dark,.
@@PaintingandDecorating i appreciate the advice.if i want to paint over the wallaper,,is there a way to hide seems/joints in any way? Ive seen in a brochure that bin has a wallpaper paint and ive seen you use that brand any further advice? I want to make the walls look smooth
Have you any experience with using Leyland quick drying water based satinwood. I've used it today after priming with Zinsser 123 on some timber. Tried to apply it with a mohair roller and it started to bubble. I tried laying it off after couple of minutes. Still no joy. It was 12 deg today and I was working indoors in an outside shed. It was raining outside. Would moisture in the air cause this? Or what else could happen?
@@PaintingandDecorating I laid it off with the roller. Lol. I thought this was the same thing when the roller isn't loaded with paint. Like someone on the comments has said I went and ordered a Purdy Syntox brush to lay off with. Thanks for the quick reply 👍. Am I right in saying that laying off with the roller was a mistake? Although on the 2nd coat I done a little test and let the paint go off for 10 minutes and ran the roller over it and that seemed to remove the bubbles. These were not that important so I used them as a test but when I come to the floating shelves I want to get it right.
@@SteS Best to lay off with a brush really, but if leaving it then rolling over again works, then this maybe better on flar surfaces less brush marks. Thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating I messed up the pieces that didn't matter so much.. Hopefully that works on the first coat on the more important ones. Yes . All flat surfaces. Doors, shelving and frames. Going to prime and paint the skirting before installing. And touch up afterwards. So brush work for those areas. Thanks for all your videos. They're a great resource. Must of watched days worth of your content.
It’s not a bad drop of paint the Armstead satin, but I find the Dulux diamond satin is better still . Get some Oldfield brushes. Oval , angled. Superb. Leave a lovely finish. Good vid.
Sorry for late reply. Yes Dulux is far superior and the price reflects this... Armstead good paint ready to use as Dulux is more thick and allows for thinning.
Painting and Decorating . Yeah I think I am finally settled on the brands I am happy to use, suggest to clients. Brands that don’t give me grief, leave a good long lasting finish. Akzo Nobel and Tikkurilla. That’s it. I ve always prided myself on being up to speed with latest products etc but I am getting a bit fed up with “ trying “ more products. Happy to recommend Armstead. Especially on commercial and rental properties. I did three sample boars with three WB products. Found them the other day. Armstead was still white, rest had yellowed. 2016 I did them. If you get a chance think you’d like to use the Helmi and Intact from Tikkurila. Plus Teknos Aqua Futura is great. Cheers
Drips or runs... Drips scrub out.. runs more difficult check your workover.. not too bad with oil gloss to scrub them out.. water based gloss no chance it will flash but you have to because you can not leave runs. water based satin you can scrub them out..
First of all you don't use natural bristle brushes for water -based finishes, thy shoud be a synthetic brush. Secondly, for large areas you roll it on with a short haired roller and lay it of in the same direction. Sand and dampen the area with a wet sponge.
Lol. what large area and secondly natural bristle are the best brush for all paints... granted some water based clear varnish better using synthetic because black seems to come out of pure bristle ... you think synthetic have been about for ever lol. dampen the area will just make your brush skid about and soften any water based undercoat you have put on.. bad idea.
Totally agree London forever,for a start Armstead is bottom range also synthetics for water based,especially as Hamilton bristle brushes are like a badgers ass years ago they were king especially the 900s they were everybody’s top end brush,no more now anyone who does top end work uses Purdy or similar,I’ve been decorating nearly 40 years .On doors like those you cut around panels then roll with a fine mohair roller then lay it off with a long hair Purdy syntox Ask any professional kitchen cabinet painter
Hi mike,I would recommend tikkurila helmi 30[satin finnish] or sickens satura water based,DULUX satinwood,although with the DULUX the white is a bugger to cover for some reason,but the coloured satinwood is fine and don’t forget synthetic brushes for applying
Stick a little bit of Floetrol in with the water based paint and it gives you a bit more working time with it. Same with Owatrol for oil based paints , goes on lovely .
Synthetics are better than pure bristle in water based paints as well. Nice vid .👍
Pure bristle can be just as good as synthetic or even better in some cases with emulsion, don't talk bollocks .
@@steveprice8309 I doubt you were ever at school ,let alone know how to paint ,dick head 😉
@@simonright1507 even the Dulux trainer videos suggest using quality synthetic bristles for acrylic satin. Pure bristle is best for gloss.
@@simonright1507 it's personal taste, pure bristle is better for oil based but you can use synthetic for oil as they are far better now than whst they used to be, I use synthetic and I've been a p and d for 37 years and I find them convenient as you can use them straight away without having to braik them in the other reason I use them is that a lot of the time it's water based paint I'm using not allways by choice I mite add .
Your cutting in is 👌👌. Brilliant white into a dark colour isn’t as easy as people think. If I hired a decorator and he got frog tape out his bag to do the cutting in I would tell him to get out my house. Brilliant mate.
Thank you.
Zoom in 😂
I ended up buying this paint and using a pure bristle brush just like you did in this video. My results weren’t as great as your review of the paint. I undercoated twice with armstead trade paint and then applied two top coats and even three in some areas and the coverage was quite poor. There were a ton of brush marks from the pure bristle brush too. I switched to a synthetic brush and that was somewhat better. Overall, I wouldn’t purchase this paint again.
Ive actually used this today for a customer very impressed with it to be fare. Still prefer oil but really good
I’ve got to paint the same type door I’ve bought new. Would you recommend using a roller on it ?
I’m using dulux quick dry satinwood
Yaaasss use roller on main and side panels
Thanks for another great video. Your work is lovely and I'm using your knowledge to better my DIY skills.
Thank you.
Please consider doing a video showing how you prepare trim for painting - it would be super helpful to see how you deal with trim that has been previously painted poorly. I know sanding and speckling may not be considered aesthetic, video-worthy subjects, but there are very few detailed, good videos devoted to them. Thanks for another superb video.
Another first class instructional video! I tend to use Purdy synthetic brushes....I never ever lose any bristles from them. Just my preference though. I'll give that paint a go for an upcoming job for a lady with breathing problems, as opposed to oil based. Normally I stick with Dulux but I just don't think it's anything to shout about any more. Thanks again mate....top work!
Bristle brushes also swell with water based paint. Synthetic best spot on.
Try Tikkurila paints if you want a great quality waterborne paint. Also bin the natural bristled brushes in the waterbased. If you think armstead is good then you will be really impressed with better brands paints. Nice video 👍🏻
Ben, this is satin not water-based gloss. He is much more experienced painter than most of us and I think he knows his paints by now.
Adrian Sandry I never said it was a gloss finish mate. Not sure we’re you are getting that from?
I work with waterbase undercoats all the time and glosses and they dry so quickly my method would to be to use a small scuttle and a hamilton medium piles 4 inch roller just to get it on quick and would defiantly use a dulux trade as they are far better than DIY store Shop paints and to get a great cut in use a purdy angle brush.
I hadn't realised water based satin won't go onto Dulux oil based undercoat. Lovely job undercoating the stairs so not happy. Should I just sand it all down or sand it and go over with a water based u/coat?
I had to re do my glossing after the painter I hired to do it just coated the wood work with emulsion first then used satin wood over the top of that? Looked so streaky and two toned it was horrendous! So I watched the video and done it myself! Thank you
Your welcome thanks
Can you recommend a satin that's not water based that doesn't yellow. I've got a skirting board in my hall that gets bashed a lot, I need something resilient but don't like gloss or yellowing? Thanks.
Only water based will not yellow. Try Johnstone's Aqua guard. Very hard wearing.
crown trade oil satin and Albany oil satin don't seem to yellow had them both in the garage without uv light for around 6 years and still white on the side of the tins all the others dulux jono's have gone yellow Albany oil gloss and crown trade next gen oil gloss hold the white for a long time too for todays oil glosses
Green scourer, washing up liquid.
Sorted.
Never thought about the meths to get rid of the inground dirt/grime.
I seen an official dulux or crown presentation and they recommended dampening the surface before painting.
The wiping with meths is a very good idea esp with doors as it removes all the grease from years of hands which can cause a paint defect called cissing. I haven't always done it and sometimes I have wasted time and money as a result.
Love your choice of brushes, I've been using Wooster brushes for years and have even bought some direct from the USA
Thanks for the vid, any tips on how to stop a ridge of paint forming on the hinge side edge? Thanks
Thank you.... it's about not putting to much paint on and wiping back if necessary.
For flush doors is it possible to use a miniroller? If so, what type is best for water based satin wood? I've always used special mini rollers for oil based satin wood and the finish comes up lovely.
Synthetic brushes are a must with water based paints.
Because pure bristles draw moisture out of paint and can cause drag marks.
Best to dampen brush first before applying paint.
I also prefer to lay off
To get rid of brush marks.
More control and faster painting using pure bristle... synthetic... it's in the name... keep it real. only reason they push synthetic brushes is because they are cheap to make... if you have not used pure bristle enough you wont understand.
I was pure bristle then went synthetic. Spent a lot of money only to find myself back to bristle. Whatever you feel happy with and works for you. No problems.
100% mate. No way would you use pure for water based
I want to do skirting, architraves etc but i dont want the pain of thick gloss. Can you recommend a paint that is like exterior satin but for indoors? I like the way exterior satin goes on quickly and i like the effect
Use this satin he was using. It is internal, so the same application.
Do you light sand before second coat and do you recommend sugar soap? Thanks.
Yes sugar soap is good for cleaning down paintwork. And yes light sand before second coat de-nib... thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating Thanks.
Is the old paint oil based or water based?
Good video mate. How much did you key the old gloss underneath? I find unless majority of shine is removed that latex paints peel.
A lot like you say you have to get rid of the shine completely.
why when i paint with black satin does it always leave i think the word is flashing. gone through two tins on my bathroom door now?
Can you use oil based undercoat with water based satin.
Also can you sand oil based gloss and paint with water based. Will it peel
Yes, best to allow the oil to dry 24hrs. And you can sand oil based gloss that is old and apply water based. Thanks
I'm painting a pre varnished kitchen main door heavy traffic I've put 3 coats of 123 plus looks good for my top coat I was thinking of going with water base eggshell white to wipe down if dirty any advice on top coat .thanks
Top quality work as ever but I’m always curious why top notch painters like you don’t use mini rollers for panels. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
All depends on how much you have to do and other factors. We always like to lay the paint off with a brush for a smooth finish. So a brush is always needed roller optional..
@@PaintingandDecorating thanks for that answer. Think it will be a while before my brush skills get to that level 😀👍🏻
No Problem thanks..
Do you thin the paint out
Can you see any brush marks on the finish product once you have done two coats? I am interested in purchasing this paint for painting a set of fitted wardrobes but I’m unsure which satin based paint to go for.
How do you find the difference between diamond eggshell and satinwood?
My head gets frustrated with water based paints..I have done some test bits of skirting boards in varying light conditions in my house over the past two years and i am finding that some of these water based paints yellow too. I did one with armstead quick dry satin and after two years it has yellowed ever so slightly. Not much but definitely not as white as it was new. Homebase own water based gloss stayed the whitest of them all believe it or not lol although it not easy to get a good finish. . I have had a bit of skirting board in a dark cupboard for two years with dulux oil based gloss painted over a water based undercoat and it hasn’t yellowed too badly at all surprisingly. Sometimes I think the undercoat can effect the yellowing of the top coat. I sometimes go down the route of using oil on all jobs and just tell the customer that it needs redone every five years. I think all paints discolour and I’m tired fighting for a good water based alternative lol. I’m sticking with oil unless the customer can’t cope with the smell lol
Throw some vanilla extract in oil paint, helps with the smell.
Keep breathing in them paint vapours brother. I wont work with oil based paint unless the costomer is giving me £250 a day
Nice job mate will have to try the armstead the emulsion is good and like you say for the price
Thanks... and it's good paint have noticed where I get my paint from the other painters seem to use it than the Dulux.
Excellent video. Would this paint be suitable for skirting-boards if they have previously been painted in satin. Thanks
Of course, but sand it lightly to aid adhesion and then solvent or meth spirits to clean it off.
Do you recommend using satin for all doors and trim? I typically use semi-gloss, and I like what you said about the advantages of satin, but do you find satin 'glossy' enough? thanks!
It's down to the person but satin sits better sometimes than gloss... takes longer to yellow if at all... water based is good better than gloss water based.
Painting and Decorating thanks, mate (American trying to sound Aussie even though I know you are British).
Why don’t you get the paint on using a mini roller & then lay it off? much more efficient than flicking a 2” brush about?
I guessing its a texture thing.
Unless its a completely flush door and you have a dozen or more to paint it's just as quick to use a brush that's probably why he uses just a brush
It depends on various factors including the kind of paint and the ambient temperature. I tend to roll doors with a 4" roller either foam or microfibre, and lay off with a brush. A panelled door takes 10 mins per side with this method. In hot weather you have to apply water-based top coats that much more quickly and the faster roller on & lay off with a brush really works best for me. That said, this week I've been painting with Johnstone's Aqua water based gloss and preferred using a thick-bristled 2" Hamilton as I didn't find the roller speeding things up much. Happy experimenting!
I thought the same 🧐 I'd use a roller & brush
I use a brush to get it on then roller, I love the orange peel look, personal preference eh.
I want to paint my skirting but I think it's gloss, can I paint over it with this Satin without undercoat?
if it's oil based gloss, give it a good run down. Oil based satin/ or eggshell is self undercoating, so just two coats will be fine. If its an oil finish thats on and you want to move over to water based, I like to use a water based grip primer forst, then you can start going over with waterbased products without the fear of it peeling/coming away from the previous oil surface. There's a number of good base/grip undercaots on the market now. Remember, a lot of water based pain systems are one Uc, followed by two coats of the finish coat.
Another great video you and your brother are true top painting star tradesmen
Thank you from both of us.
Knights with white satin
always reaching the end.....😁👍
Thanks for this video. I didn't expect you to get it on UA-cam so quickly. Interesting about the Armstead paint and it has good reviews on Screwfix. But I was slightly concerned by one comment I saw, which said that it had slightly yellowed after a couple of years. As far as I can tell the Zinsser Perma-White satin doesn't yellow.
It doesn’t yellow at anywhere near the same rate as oil but it still does loose some of its whiteness. To be honest I think all paints discolour slightly. Even ceilings can discolour over time. I use oil for the finish it gives and use water based and waterborne paints if it’s a particularly dark room or the customer doesn’t like the smell or if the customer is happy for me to spend a lot of time changing their woodwork from oil to waterbased. But on most jobs I find dulux oil based gloss in white will stay white for a perfectly acceptable length of time especially over waterbased undercoat. Crown trade satin finish is also white and stays white for a good long time and its oil based. I have been back to jobs three and four years and it still looks white. I tend not to use brilliant white though I only use white so maybe this has something to do with it not going yellow as much. It’s a minefield but if I’m on a big hall stairs and landing that has been painted in oil before the last thing I want to do is charge the customer for me to paint 10 doors and frames and spindles all with three coats of waterbased paint when the advantages aren’t all that great considering it gets dirtier easier and doesn’t stay as white as u think. I’m happy with oil nice finish needs done in five years and wears well lol
@@stuartmcintosh7187 Thanks for your detailed reply. I'll probably persevere with the Zinsser Perma-White satin for the time being but I may go back to Dulux oil-based in the future.
Mark Rowland I have used the Zinsser perma white satin in my living room about three years ago and it is still nice and white too so it’s a good one. I like how it adheres to old oil based paints without having to use a primer!
@@stuartmcintosh7187 Yes, I've used it a few times now. Bit tricky to apply compared to oil-based but imo the advantages out-weigh disadvantages.
A customer as just asked me to start using oil gloss again for them... as they think it looks better.
Beautiful brush work.
Thank you.
Thank you! You are a pro!!!!
do you rate Dulux quick dry satin? am about to start painting and that what I've got at the moment
Yes good stuff.
they don't recommend using natural bristle with WB usually
We generally only use pure bristle they work great... use them in emulsion all the time.
@@PaintingandDecorating I'm a big fan of them too, use them whenever I can. Just always been advised to use synthetics in WB wood paint. But I'll take your word for it judging by the videos you put up on here.
Great video and Hamilton pure bristle brushes I find also great for this application. Used the armstead quick dry satin in my own living room a few years back..... still looks lovely and white.... just one drawback I find... it might just be me... but when I wipe off dirty hand prints from the door with a clean cloth. The paint feels a little sticky afterwards for a few days at least. Then returns to normal? Weird I know. Doors were keyed and prepped very well beforehand. And also the sun on the window cill tends to make the pint feel tacky also. Weird.
Yes water based are not hard wearing...
I used Zinsser Perma White Self-Priming on Oil based paint. Why it's leave Brush marks?
Because its water based and is harder to lay off. Thanks
Good job pal
Are the brushed esay to clean after it because johnson aqca paint kills brushes
Some paints you do have to use synthetic brushes.. they dry too fast and are no good with pure bristles.. thanks
Did you sand it sander machine? How did you degloss it before painting
just sand it by hand, no need to go all-in with the sanding no need for machines
Try tikkurila helmi 30. It’s the best waterborne satin I’ve used.
Could you use this paint on radiators?
Yes as long as no bare metal.
@@PaintingandDecorating Thanks for reply
Does it get darker as they dry ?
Quick question whats the name of that beautiful blue paint on the wall and can you paint over printed wall paper that you have to paste the wall instead of the paper?
Im not sure but had enough of the wallpaper would appreciate a reply.
The colour is a Valspar colour called epic adventure.. and yes you can paint over wallpaper... thanks.. if you use the blue better to put it on a contract matt gray if you can..
@@PaintingandDecorating sorry but im not what you mean..why would i need to use a grey if you dont mind explaining.i was thinking i would maybe need to use primer as the wallpaper is black and has white flowers.its getting on my nerves now but i want to do it right hence im asking a pro
@@scorpionnetherrealm8937 Blue is a difficult colour to use maybe because lack of pigment... 4 coats that was going on white granted... but 4 coats... but a grey back ground it may go in two coats... may work on your black first paint the white flowers out dark,.
@@PaintingandDecorating much appreciated for the useful input thank you.keep the videos coming its a breath of fresh air
@@PaintingandDecorating i appreciate the advice.if i want to paint over the wallaper,,is there a way to hide seems/joints in any way?
Ive seen in a brochure that bin has a wallpaper paint and ive seen you use that brand any further advice?
I want to make the walls look smooth
Oil or water. Roll on and lay off. More even coverage and faster method.
Have you any experience with using Leyland quick drying water based satinwood. I've used it today after priming with Zinsser 123 on some timber. Tried to apply it with a mohair roller and it started to bubble. I tried laying it off after couple of minutes. Still no joy. It was 12 deg today and I was working indoors in an outside shed. It was raining outside. Would moisture in the air cause this? Or what else could happen?
No, but rollers can cause bubbles funny you could not lay them off.
@@PaintingandDecorating I laid it off with the roller. Lol. I thought this was the same thing when the roller isn't loaded with paint. Like someone on the comments has said I went and ordered a Purdy Syntox brush to lay off with. Thanks for the quick reply 👍. Am I right in saying that laying off with the roller was a mistake?
Although on the 2nd coat I done a little test and let the paint go off for 10 minutes and ran the roller over it and that seemed to remove the bubbles.
These were not that important so I used them as a test but when I come to the floating shelves I want to get it right.
@@SteS Best to lay off with a brush really, but if leaving it then rolling over again works, then this maybe better on flar surfaces less brush marks. Thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating I messed up the pieces that didn't matter so much.. Hopefully that works on the first coat on the more important ones. Yes . All flat surfaces. Doors, shelving and frames. Going to prime and paint the skirting before installing. And touch up afterwards. So brush work for those areas.
Thanks for all your videos. They're a great resource. Must of watched days worth of your content.
solvent satin would prob need 2 anyway
It’s not a bad drop of paint the Armstead satin, but I find the Dulux diamond satin is better still . Get some Oldfield brushes. Oval , angled. Superb. Leave a lovely finish. Good vid.
Sorry for late reply. Yes Dulux is far superior and the price reflects this... Armstead good paint ready to use as Dulux is more thick and allows for thinning.
Painting and Decorating . Yeah I think I am finally settled on the brands I am happy to use, suggest to clients. Brands that don’t give me grief, leave a good long lasting finish. Akzo Nobel and Tikkurilla. That’s it. I ve always prided myself on being up to speed with latest products etc but I am getting a bit fed up with “ trying “ more products. Happy to recommend Armstead. Especially on commercial and rental properties. I did three sample boars with three WB products. Found them the other day. Armstead was still white, rest had yellowed. 2016 I did them. If you get a chance think you’d like to use the Helmi and Intact from Tikkurila. Plus Teknos Aqua Futura is great. Cheers
@@stevenmcfarlane8831 yes agreed nice to leave the best finish and hardwaring. Like you say why change what does not cause you problems. Thanks.
How do you deal with drips ?
Drips or runs... Drips scrub out.. runs more difficult check your workover.. not too bad with oil gloss to scrub them out.. water based gloss no chance it will flash but you have to because you can not leave runs. water based satin you can scrub them out..
Try Johnstones acrylic satin with flotrol. Superb finish. Very tough too.
What's this like compared to Dulux Quick Dry Satin? That stayed tacky for ages
It's okay but any hard wearing places no good... better using oil satinwood.. thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating Thanks. I'm trying to avoid the solvent smells but that paint is looking like the best choice.
@@ORGPPL1 it is good.. Leyland do some good water based paints.. I like the water based gloss.. thanks.
@@PaintingandDecorating OK thanks. I used Leyland primer and it performed nicely apart from the odd smell.
Great job as usual!
Thank you.
So tidy and clean that’s how I work too! Do think I have some sort of ocd😂
Yes I thought that then I realized no painter and decorator can have OCD...... you would never finish a job.
Painting and Decorating yes there is a limit haha
considering the colour off the paint before was yellow ish that's very impressive enjoyed the video.
Yes covered well thanks.
Mate, 24.27, is that your knees?🙂
What you doing using pure bristle for water based paint. Your mad. Pure bristle takes the water out of the paint and dries far to quick on the brush
nice job shame on the tribal tattoo
No shame my good man.
@@PaintingandDecorating haha
These videos showing people how to DIYS are the reason us deccys have to go and sort pure shit jobs out...
Or DIYS look and think no will let the professional do that so I get have a great finish.. hopefully.
First of all you don't use natural bristle brushes for water -based finishes, thy shoud be a synthetic brush. Secondly, for large areas you roll it on with a short haired roller and lay it of in the same direction. Sand and dampen the area with a wet sponge.
Lol. what large area and secondly natural bristle are the best brush for all paints... granted some water based clear varnish better using synthetic because black seems to come out of pure bristle ... you think synthetic have been about for ever lol. dampen the area will just make your brush skid about and soften any water based undercoat you have put on.. bad idea.
Totally agree London forever,for a start Armstead is bottom range also synthetics for water based,especially as Hamilton bristle brushes are like a badgers ass years ago they were king especially the 900s they were everybody’s top end brush,no more now anyone who does top end work uses Purdy or similar,I’ve been decorating nearly 40 years .On doors like those you cut around panels then roll with a fine mohair roller then lay it off with a long hair Purdy syntox
Ask any professional kitchen cabinet painter
Christopher Butts .....do you paint coal cellars by any chance ?
Johnny old school you name it son we’ve painted it
Hi mike,I would recommend tikkurila helmi 30[satin finnish] or sickens satura water based,DULUX satinwood,although with the DULUX the white is a bugger to cover for some reason,but the coloured satinwood is fine and don’t forget synthetic brushes for applying
Does it get darker as they dry ?