Great work! I like the approach you take to your picture/pose selection, and the thought process behind it. Also, your model made it look easy and was able to pose herself with ease. She's a beauty as well.
*That's good you mention the camera and lens + flash settings you use in every shoot* *Great job bro keep it up👍* *Best wishes fro Sultanate of Oman🇴🇲🇴🇲🇴🇲*
I love watching your work and not being funny. I was wondering when your light would blow over as the stand was in correctly set up.. I am sure many many many fellow photographers are going to give you a little ribbing over this... Hahaha.. Its amazing how we all forget the simple stuff sometimes... Still great watching you get great results no matter what the stand was doing..
Lol yeah. It’s funny. As soon as I was playing back the video, I said the same thing. It wasn’t set correctly. Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting.
Great content! I like the mix of the flash and the ambient especially that you didnt try to darken the ambient like so many do but balanced them nicely. Do you have a video where you show how you are setting your ambient with the camera and then adding in the flash? If so, point me that way.
Dude the whole time that light was hovering over a section without the leg there I just knew it was coming down I wish I had the extension head for my ad600 but I don't I put weights on mine and its till makes me paranoid but I just refuse to shoot natural light lol your work is awesome
Great job! I love watching your videos, you do great work. I do have a question with something I don't understand. If you could help id sure appreciate it. I notice that you and many other photographers shoot wide open with beautiful results.. I have the Sigma 85 mm 1.4 art lens and when I shoot at 1.4 i get the eye in focus and maybe half the face but everything else is blurry. I see other photographers such as yourself using 1.4 and even 1.2 and getting most of the entire model in focus. What am I missing?
Jamie what an awesome question and the answer is probably something that I could do a video for! It’s what actually really lit the lightbulb for me! First, I’d say download a depth of field app. A free one. No need to pay. Put the body or 35mm type camera whether full frame or crop sensor in the info, put the correct lens info in and the distance to your subject. It’ll calculate the depth of field for you. This is the area that will be in focus. For instance, a full frame camera with an 85 1.2 lens at 10ft distance might have a DoF of 2 inches, while the same lens and camera at 20ft from subject will have maybe 12inches of DoF (area in focus). This is how you can start determining what will be in focus at what distance. Incredible tool to learn with and a wonderful question. A future video for sure!
Guess I might run into you sometime here in SA! Just bought a Westcott FJ80 II at Camera Exchange today and was looking up flash videos and came across your channel. First time flash user so this is really interesting work! Keep it up
Jason, great video again. I have search many times over the years; and google is no help. How do you edit the text (camera settings with the cool icons) on your photos when making you youtube videos like in the above video @ 1:42? Never been able to figure this one out.
@J.Allen_Photography Nice thank you so much. I made a template to get started with last night. I think it will work. Thank you for the quick response Jason. Keep up the good work.
Loved this tutorial but HSS isn't for me. Hasn't been for a long time now. I hate struggling with it. Funny you've said you've never gotten good results with ND filters because I love them. I rather ND's than HSS any day and love working with them. To each his own. Whatever works for the individual I say :) Great vid. Keep 'em coming!
I get that. I have tried ND filters in the past and just haven't had the best luck. I'm probably buying cheap filters, but I get better results the way I'm shooting now, so I just stick with it.
Awesome work. Regarding flash position I often hear photographers say place it in the general area where the ambient light is coming from. Is that something you do or does that not really matter? I guess in general how do you determine which side to place the flash for the most natural look?
That's only if you want to blend the flash and ambient light seamlessly but it's not the only way to use off camera flash. It's whatever you want it to be. It can be used as fill light, whatever the vision is in your head. Too many photographers preach that the only correct way to use flash is to make it look like flash wasn't used. That's rubbish. Flash usage can be whatever you see in your head and want to execute.
@@jasonbodden8816 nice work. just wondering how you don't get disturbing shadows while working with such high flash power?! the art in the last pose 🔥 the face is lit from both sides like you used two lights 😇
Hey Jason another good video. Just subscribed! My question is not related to the video but wondering if you could share some insight. I am new to off camera flash but not photography in general. I shoot raw and have my jpeg profile set to neutral. I mention this because I was under the impression it affects how you read the histogram in camera. I find when I read the histogram in camera it looks good. I switch between brightness and RGB. However when I bring it back it Lightroom because I shoot in raw the histogram always seems to be on the darker side. My pictures always seem slightly under expose with off camera flash. Does this sound like a common problem? Have you experienced this at the beginning of your portrait photography career? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the great content! ✌️📷 Btw I am underexposing the ambient slightly and then filling in with the flash...
That's because when you open a RAW file in Lightroom the first thing you see is a Jpeg preview. Then when Lightroom has processed the data in the RAW file, it replaces the Jpeg preview with the RAW file. The RAW file is unprocessed, so it appears darker, flatter, duller and with less contrast.
@@J.Allen_Photography I am well aware of a raw file being more dull and lacking contrast ect..my question was more along the lines of looking at the histogram and reading it on the back of the camera. The histogram reading on the back of the camera is from a jpeg thus looks good on camera. However another channel gave me some good advice which was to basically take into account that the histogram might be more to the right than I think. And to take that into account when reading the histogram. Also I believe metering modes can affect the look of the histogram as well. Thanks anyway for your response ✌️
@@Ryanphotos1 Perhaps don't rely on the histogram that much...they're all pretty useless (in camera) If you have blinkies or zebra stripes you can use a piece of white paper to set your white balance and ensure overexposure of highlights is controlled. The histogram can help keep you in the ballpark; but, remember, any camera setting is going to display differently than the RAW (not necessarily lighter) and, if you really like what you see in camera, best shoot RAW + JPEG. Today's JPEGs are pretty advanced and retouchable. RAW is fine if you really need to push things or got your initial settings incorrect < get your camera settings correct the first time ;)
Since you always shoot with Flash... why not just turn on recycle beep of the Flash let the model know you have taken the shot instead of counting off. They will move after every beep.
I specialize as a HS Senior Photographer. So yea, most of my clients are younger. I work with models as well, this being one who is in her early 20s. I like to blur the background. It looks better than everything in focus taking away attention from my models.
Great work! I like the approach you take to your picture/pose selection, and the thought process behind it. Also, your model made it look easy and was able to pose herself with ease. She's a beauty as well.
Amazing video, I appreciate how calm, collected, positive and prepared yet still concise you remain even when the C-Stand dropped. Always in control.
*That's good you mention the camera and lens + flash settings you use in every shoot*
*Great job bro keep it up👍*
*Best wishes fro Sultanate of Oman🇴🇲🇴🇲🇴🇲*
Love this shoot. Both of you nailed it.
Thank you!
I love watching your work and not being funny. I was wondering when your light would blow over as the stand was in correctly set up.. I am sure many many many fellow photographers are going to give you a little ribbing over this... Hahaha.. Its amazing how we all forget the simple stuff sometimes... Still great watching you get great results no matter what the stand was doing..
Lol yeah. It’s funny. As soon as I was playing back the video, I said the same thing. It wasn’t set correctly. Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting.
I especially like how you show the photo almost immediately after you take it.
Talk about a perfect shoot. Great model, great location.. great content...
She’s fantastic to work with! Thank you!
Absolutely wonderful video. I learned a lot that I will definitely be applying to my next photo shoot. And she is an amazing model. Thank you so much.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching and commenting!
oh my..that's wonderful..I need to practice my photography too and start trying hss..
Have fun with it!!! HSS is a game changer
Great session. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!!!
Great content! I like the mix of the flash and the ambient especially that you didnt try to darken the ambient like so many do but balanced them nicely. Do you have a video where you show how you are setting your ambient with the camera and then adding in the flash? If so, point me that way.
Dude the whole time that light was hovering over a section without the leg there I just knew it was coming down I wish I had the extension head for my ad600 but I don't I put weights on mine and its till makes me paranoid but I just refuse to shoot natural light lol your work is awesome
Great job! I love watching your videos, you do great work. I do have a question with something I don't understand. If you could help id sure appreciate it. I notice that you and many other photographers shoot wide open with beautiful results.. I have the Sigma 85 mm 1.4 art lens and when I shoot at 1.4 i get the eye in focus and maybe half the face but everything else is blurry. I see other photographers such as yourself using 1.4 and even 1.2 and getting most of the entire model in focus. What am I missing?
Jamie what an awesome question and the answer is probably something that I could do a video for! It’s what actually really lit the lightbulb for me!
First, I’d say download a depth of field app. A free one. No need to pay.
Put the body or 35mm type camera whether full frame or crop sensor in the info, put the correct lens info in and the distance to your subject. It’ll calculate the depth of field for you. This is the area that will be in focus. For instance, a full frame camera with an 85 1.2 lens at 10ft distance might have a DoF of 2 inches, while the same lens and camera at 20ft from subject will have maybe 12inches of DoF (area in focus). This is how you can start determining what will be in focus at what distance. Incredible tool to learn with and a wonderful question. A future video for sure!
Distance. Step back till you get the depth you're looking for.
Guess I might run into you sometime here in SA! Just bought a Westcott FJ80 II at Camera Exchange today and was looking up flash videos and came across your channel. First time flash user so this is really interesting work! Keep it up
Oh cool! Have fun with it!
The biggest foot of the C-stand should always be forward. That is the most stable way of using it. I saw the stand fall from thw wind blow.
Cooool 🔥🔥🔥
Jason, great video again. I have search many times over the years; and google is no help. How do you edit the text (camera settings with the cool icons) on your photos when making you youtube videos like in the above video @ 1:42? Never been able to figure this one out.
I bought them. I’m not really that good with after effects at all, so I bought my animated icons and motion elements.
@J.Allen_Photography Nice thank you so much.
I made a template to get started with last night. I think it will work.
Thank you for the quick response Jason. Keep up the good work.
Lastly, How do you search to purchase if I need to?
I bought these from
matti Haapoji channel and site. I use premiere so I think I would just search for animated titles for premiere
Thank you kind sir. @@J.Allen_Photography
Love your videos! As someone who also shoot with a R5 are you shooting in kelvin or auto WB? Love your work
I shoot raw with awb. Thanks for watching and the compliments!
Loved this tutorial but HSS isn't for me. Hasn't been for a long time now. I hate struggling with it. Funny you've said you've never gotten good results with ND filters because I love them. I rather ND's than HSS any day and love working with them. To each his own. Whatever works for the individual I say :) Great vid. Keep 'em coming!
I get that. I have tried ND filters in the past and just haven't had the best luck. I'm probably buying cheap filters, but I get better results the way I'm shooting now, so I just stick with it.
Awesome video
Thank you!
Awesome work. Regarding flash position I often hear photographers say place it in the general area where the ambient light is coming from. Is that something you do or does that not really matter? I guess in general how do you determine which side to place the flash for the most natural look?
That's only if you want to blend the flash and ambient light seamlessly but it's not the only way to use off camera flash. It's whatever you want it to be. It can be used as fill light, whatever the vision is in your head. Too many photographers preach that the only correct way to use flash is to make it look like flash wasn't used. That's rubbish. Flash usage can be whatever you see in your head and want to execute.
@@jasonbodden8816 nice work. just wondering how you don't get disturbing shadows while working with such high flash power?!
the art in the last pose 🔥 the face is lit from both sides like you used two lights 😇
Hey Jason another good video. Just subscribed!
My question is not related to the video but wondering if you could share some insight. I am new to off camera flash but not photography in general. I shoot raw and have my jpeg profile set to neutral. I mention this because I was under the impression it affects how you read the histogram in camera. I find when I read the histogram in camera it looks good. I switch between brightness and RGB. However when I bring it back it Lightroom because I shoot in raw the histogram always seems to be on the darker side. My pictures always seem slightly under expose with off camera flash. Does this sound like a common problem? Have you experienced this at the beginning of your portrait photography career? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the great content! ✌️📷 Btw I am underexposing the ambient slightly and then filling in with the flash...
That's because when you open a RAW file in Lightroom the first thing you see is a Jpeg preview. Then when Lightroom has processed the data in the RAW file, it replaces the Jpeg preview with the RAW file. The RAW file is unprocessed, so it appears darker, flatter, duller and with less contrast.
You rock! Thanks for the solid response!
@@J.Allen_Photography I am well aware of a raw file being more dull and lacking contrast ect..my question was more along the lines of looking at the histogram and reading it on the back of the camera. The histogram reading on the back of the camera is from a jpeg thus looks good on camera. However another channel gave me some good advice which was to basically take into account that the histogram might be more to the right than I think. And to take that into account when reading the histogram. Also I believe metering modes can affect the look of the histogram as well. Thanks anyway for your response ✌️
@@Ryanphotos1 Perhaps don't rely on the histogram that much...they're all pretty useless (in camera) If you have blinkies or zebra stripes you can use a piece of white paper to set your white balance and ensure overexposure of highlights is controlled. The histogram can help keep you in the ballpark; but, remember, any camera setting is going to display differently than the RAW (not necessarily lighter) and, if you really like what you see in camera, best shoot RAW + JPEG. Today's JPEGs are pretty advanced and retouchable. RAW is fine if you really need to push things or got your initial settings incorrect < get your camera settings correct the first time ;)
I live in SA, where is this graffiti park? I would like to take my son there for pictures... thanks!
51 Essex St. it’s down off Cherry St and Florida St.
This has to be the best OCF/Natural light session I've ever scene.
Wow. Thank you! Thanks for leaving a comment also!!!
What is the size of your softbox?
Since you always shoot with Flash... why not just turn on recycle beep of the Flash let the model know you have taken the shot instead of counting off. They will move after every beep.
That’s actually a great idea! Thanks.
Another humdinger!
Jason...why don't you get a super clamp and clamp your strobe body to the bottom of the light stand?
I may.
WoW you art edit?
Your stand is backward and sandbags are cheaper than light replacements.
Lol. I know. As soon as I saw the video playback I realized I was gonna get flack for it. Which I have.
You seem to have access to some great locations, why do you shoot at f1.2 and blur it all? And why only teenage girls....how old are you?
I specialize as a HS Senior Photographer. So yea, most of my clients are younger. I work with models as well, this being one who is in her early 20s.
I like to blur the background. It looks better than everything in focus taking away attention from my models.
$700 flashed before my eyes....
Lol. Same!
Get rid of the background music when you're talking. FFS.
I cringed seeing your stand going down!
lol. Thats what I get for setting it up wrong.
@@J.Allen_Photography is that the actual light on the ground? How?!
@@krystalglass333 no. The beauty dish protected it thankfully.
i wonder, have you used any color gel? if not what color temp you usually use in these scenarios?
@@mizrah2907 I haven’t…not outdoors.