A Day in the Life of a Brewtools Brewery - Oat Cream DIPA | Starting a brewery: Ep. 17
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2023
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Recipe: share.brewfather.app/RmnC8nBT...
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Filmed by Aaronwahab
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#brewtools #b150 #f150 #microbrewery #brewing #homebrew
Love this! Huge thnx to Homebrew 4 life's shoutout. This content warms a home Brewers heart. Love for the craft! Looking forward to see all of your content
Thanks for joining along! We are happy you are here and appreciate your support :)
I just made a slightly adjusted version of this recipe w/ Golden Promise, naked oat malt and London Fog and it's my favorite hazy I've made this year! 😁 Thanks for the inspo guys!
Sounds delicious! Glad it turned out good!
Awesome video! Keep up the good work! Cheers
Thank you! Cheers!
Love it, wish you could ship some of your beer over to the US, but I'll settle for trying to follow the recipes and see what they taste like.
Wish we could too! One day! If you brew the recipe I would love to know how it comes out :)
Nice work as always guys 🎉 Keep going ❤
Thank you so much for the support!
Great video! How do you control dust while milling your grain? I have started using a shop vac because that dust gets everywhere. Good idea on the dust masks.
We have had dust problems as well! We noticed that the vent was not powerful enough to pull all the dust, so we also have had dust go everywhere. We recently fixed this by making a milling table with a direct tube to a bucket, with no open air. A bit hard to explain but you can actually see us use it and talk about it in our latest live brew :)
Nice vid!
Thanks!
Hi guys, great stuff!
Why did you started dumping the yeast 24h into fermentation?
Good question, the idea is to get the beer off the dead yeast ASAP and prevent off flavors from yeast autolysis. Picked that tip up from Vinnie Cilurzo, the head brewer of Russian River :)
Awesome vid... again !
How do you set up the pressures for the rousing of the hops (Fermenter and CO2 tank) ?
I just made sure the CO2 pressure was higher than the tank pressure to try and prevent her from flowing too much back into the connection. The tank pressure was 0.5 bar and I think I set the CO2 to 0.8 bar or something like that :)
@@BentGateBrewing it is my worry indeed. I wouldn’t want the PRV to overflow ! I imagine that no matter what the T junction gets flooded with beer (?) or does it stay « dry » with just CO2 ? With the F150, the hydrostatic pressure from the beer must be pretty high.
Have you considered rousing all the the hops using the lower dump port?
I have considered but my logic was that I didn't want to rouse a bunch of yeast at the same time. Is it good logic? Who knows :) Probably fine either way@@aziztan
Fin film. Men er det ikke bedre å tilsette vannjusteringen /saltene i kok mot slutten siden malten tar til saltene/vannjusteringen og den får ikke sitt beste utgangspunkt?
Good question (about when to add salts during brewing) and hopefully I understood you correctly. Like with most things in brewing, you can approach brewing salts multiple ways (before, during, vs. after mash) and get the same end point. However, I would argue the most common historically and professionally (every pro brewer I know does this, including in John Palmer's book) is to add the salts during your mash or to your starting water. I believe there are a few reasons for this:
1) Alkalinity has a large effect on pH and enzyme activity. If you use Brewfather, for example, the estimated mash pH is calculated taking the effect of alkalinity of the water on pH. This means Brewfather is assuming you are adding the salts to the mash to get that pH. Salts act as a pH buffer and therefore typically make pH control a bit easier with them in solution. This is why I think most brewers add to mash/sparge water, because it is easier to get to a final desired mash pH. If you don't add salts to the mash, then you would have to adjust your mash pH based on your local water chemistry report, then mash at desired pH, then after, you would add your salts but still need to adjust your boil pH as the salts will change the pH. This is of course fine, just a different way of doing it. I would argue they would both get you to the same end point. From a pH and alkalinity standpoint, as long as your final beer has your desired mineral profile and pH (
how do you oxygenate the wort before pitching the yeast?
We use the inline oxygen kit (just a small stone) and use pure oxygen with an inline flowmeter for the oxygen flow. Then when transferring the beer to the fermenter from the kettle we add the oxygen with this kit. Typically 0.5L/min oxygen gives us a good oxygenation of wort.
Sparge water pH? Didn’t see any acid addition to that in the recipe
To be honest we don't adjust at the moment. Probably worth fixing to closer match the pH of the mash but we haven't noticed any unwanted tannin (or any other undesirable) extraction and we always make sure our pre-boil pH is adjusted. What pH do you typically use?
@@BentGateBrewing my water supply is 8.7 and I acidify it to below 5.7 for sparging with. Interesting you adjust pre boil pH I haven’t tried that did you do that to prevent tannins from boil or whirl hops? Cheers