I've used Mobile extended performance in my Toyota truck for over 20 years, changing it every 15k miles. Now has over 500,000 miles, still runs great. No oil issues what so ever.
I've read that an oil getting black means that it removes the sludge from the engine or it keeps the sludge suspended in it versus letting it stick to the engine. Not a bad thing!
@@runningrich When synthetics came out in the 80s like Mobil SHC they said they cleaned better but also caused the engine to burn oil. Since the Mobil1 EP is made of Group IV base stocks while the regular Mobil1 isn't a true synthetic, maybe that old saying still holds true?
Well to start with, those are two different oil viscosities in your hands; the regular Mobil1 Full Synthetic is 10W-30. Whereas the Mobil1 Extended Performance is 5W-30, so that would be the most logical explanation of why you're losing more oil. Also, the Extended Performance oil given its lower viscosity and better additive package will clean better thus the oil getting darker sooner, hope that helps.
I spoke with a Nascar technician and he said if your engine does burn oil the Mobile 1 is the best choice to stick with because it leaves the fewest deposits in the combustion chamber. I'm using Mobile 1 extended mileage in my 2015 Toyota Highlander which has a 3.5 L V6. This engine has 160,000 miles on it and hasn't burned any oil luckily. At that's noticeable when checking the oil level.I have changed the oil every 5,000 miles and recently sent an oil sample to Blackstone which will test the quality of your oil. That test came back with the oil still having 86% viscosity and in great condition. I've sent the latest sample of the engine oil now after 6,000 miles and am going to compare results. On another note there's no way to touch oil and see what condition it's in accuratly.. Unless it's turned into sludge then you know your engine is done for. Good video and keep the coming. Thank you!
@@michaelrivera1249 So far so good. I'm going on an 8,000 mile change. I'm sure you've watched videos on UA-cam warning people to just change their oil every 5,000 miles, or whatever the manufacturer recommends. I'm also going to put an endoscope down the valve cover to inspect for any varnishing.. so far I don't see any looking with a flash light, but I could be missing something.
My 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited 5.2 V8 is still going strong for 28 years without engine or transmission overhaul. Right now it is nearly 421,000 miles. Several years ago, I've used conventional oil then blue smoke came out from tail pipe as I didn't like so, I switched to standard 5W-30 Mobil One Synthetic oil (no high mileage or extended) plus, engine restoration solution with Royal Purple oil filter for years without any problem or always passed smog check. Also, I've reduced engine thermostat to 15 degrees (180 instead of 195 degrees) to prolong engine life. I changing oil every 6 months (Spring and Fall since retired is fewer driving) or 5,000 miles but not beyond 7,000 or 8,000 miles. Also, I've used mostly Chevron 87 octane gas of trying not get a cheap gas brand too.
Thats fantastic 420k miles on your Jeep..Almost half a million..Keep going that way..Im personally stick to Mobil 1 Full synthetic Extended Performance 5-w30 and Mobil 1 Oil Filter..Everything works perfect..I personally change oil every 3.5k-4k miles..
Even 3 years old this is an interesting video. Recently, I'm changing up my oil strategy, I was just about to buy the 5W-30 Extended Performance oil on Amazon when I came across your video. I'm actually buying the EP for max engine protection which is the goal. I would never go 20,000 miles between oil changes. Anyway, there are a few things to cause you losing a bit of oil. The biggest one you didn't reveal in the video is how many miles is on the engine? From how you describe the use of your vehicle in either case, I think your still ahead of the game. Your engine could be at that point where the oil control rings are just starting to show their age? The fact that your losing a bit in either case points to this.
Mobil 1 synthetic is the only oil, I have used for the last 7 to 8 years it my only oil, I change my oil 4000 or 5000 to help keep the motor clean inside 👍
My 2013 Prius recommends 10,000 mile oil changes. I've only done that once or twice back when the engine was fairly new. The Toyota service advisor even recommends against that. UA-cam videos since then have taught me the 10,000 mile oil changes will safely get your engine past warranty and also yuck up the oil rings leading to oil consumption. Now is every 5,000 miles. Oil is cheap (I believe Toyota uses synthetic blend), engines are expensive. I do my other 3 vehicles myself using regular Mobil 1 of the correct weight.
Use a full synthetic and change at regular manufacture recommended intervals or even a little earlier. You will never regret it. It will keep your car running great
Yeah…its all about regular oil changes and not being lazy or cheap. Full synthetic just means it has a certain amount of pure synthetic in it, hopefully government regs makes them increase the quality of oil soon.
So you’re saying your engine burned a lot more oil when you ran the extended performance? I’m no engine mechanic so I can’t say why that is but after I made the switch back to Mobil 1, I decided to go with the EP over the regular Mobile one because I figured the extended performance would have a lot more additive in it
@@mg8718 it’s pretty good oil but it’s not the best made. I can think of quite a few oils that are better than Mobil 1, even the EP that’s not even a Group IV base.
Did you run the Mobil 1 Extended to the full 25.000 KM? Long oil change intervals are ok if your driving highway most of the time .Also you were saying that your vehicle idles a lot. If you stick with the 8000 KM oil change, you will be good. I never go over 5000 Miles in my cars. Good video.
I personally never had the courage to go 25k on an oilchange. My brother on his 3 series went to 20k without oilchange and it was showing low oil level. Mind it, it was a 4 year old 40k vehicle.
Just had lifter tick noise on 13 Yukon Denali, the previous oil used was from dealer , probably their cheap full synthetic, Dealer told me a $1200 Deposit for labor to fix issue---Read about Mobile 1-- Got an oil change today and after driving for less than 10min, my lifter tick issue stop and engine purring again like new- I am a believer and going forward nuthn but Mobile 1 full synthetic
While not a scientific test allowing us to say the EP is 'bad' I'm going to share my experience between 0W-30 (other brand) and 5W-30 EP. After changing to EP, right away the engine had some top engine clatter (engine has 35K miles). I didn't remember this clatter with the 0W-30 oil. The only guess is the EP is a much thicker oil, perhaps even thicker than a normal 5W-30 synthetic.
I am currently 12000 km into my oil drain interval and 1 year is just in a couple of weeks using a 5W-20 Mobil1 EP HM. I am planning to keep this oil for another year. It looks nice and clean. And the car haven't used a drop of it. I am sure 2 years and 25000 km are doable with no visible change in oil level.
No vehicle manufacturer says you can go 20,000 miles or 25,000 km on an oil change people need to stick to their vehicle manufacturers recommendations for severe driving conditions
This is all I use (Mobil 1 extended 5w30) and I change it every 5000 roughly and the oil is never black it’s always like a dark red idk if that’s good or not but it is my go to
@@juliorosenberg2222 extended performance 20,000 oil is for someone who drives 90% highway miles on longer trips and no cold weather. For people who drives mostly short trips, stop and go traffic or in cold climates, oil need to be changed at 5k miles or 5 months. Going longer on oil changes can ruin your engine in the future.
Follow normal oil change cycles, I use extended performance and just change it on normal interval. 20k miles is a stretch. Black oil means it may be doing a better job cleaning
Must be something wrong with your motor. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic and I drive 5,000 miles between oil changes. Every time I check it the oil is still full, even when I change it at 5,000 miles. I use the Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic.
Remember the basics folks. Engine oil is designed to cool, clean, lubricate, and seal. Black oil is a great thing,…it’s cleaning. Now, if you don’t change the oil and filter routinely then black oil will continue to get darker and darker and turn into sludge.
The blackness of the oil is the sludge left from the other oil, and the resin the oil goes down faster is because the sludge is keeping the oil from leaking past the pistin and getting burned off. That is why people use high millage for engines that burn a lot of oil. It builds up sludge and keeps the engine from burning as much.
True but high mileage oil isn't designed to create sludge, LOL. It includes a swelling agent to try and make the engine seals bigger/more flexible again.
I have used Mobil 1 EP for several years and I think it is an outstanding motor oil. The Mobil 1 EP stands up as promised and I have had a number of used oil analysis (UOA) samples to prove it. The fact that your car burns oil is a reflection of who made the engine, who is driving the car and how they drive it. I have never burned any oil in any car within the last 25 years (Lexus). The only time I ever burned oil was using original Mobil 1 in 1991 while driving cross country in a heavily laden car doing high speeds on the super highway for several days on end and that was an early 5W30. After that trip the car (Acura Legend) never used oil again. I continue to have full confidence in Mobil 1 EP and use it not only in my car but in my daughter's car as well, a 1999 Honda Civic with 158,000 miles. For a car that burns oil, you might try a High Mileage formula or "German Castrol", as some on BITOG believe it to be more viscous.
I also have observed the same phenomenon. My car is around 160,000 miles and all the time it got Mobil1 full synthetic oil. This time I put the Mobil1 extended 10,000 miles something, and the engine was running low after I checked at 2000 miles. Also, there I observed more knocking in the engine during this time. So I am going to stick to Mobil1 full synthetic original one.
Mobil 1 EP is better than the fully synthetic Mobil 1. It doesn't matter what you "perceive" about engine smoothness, or how black the oil becomes. Oil analysis doesn't lie. Mobil 1 EP has better base oil and a better additive package. If you can afford it, use it.
I would suspect the EP has better additives and better cleaning properties. Cleaning buildup especially carbon will result in darker oil and this removal may cause higher oil consumption. When I was a kid my dad had a gas station. Most vehicles used 30 weight oil then 30 weight HD came out (High Detergent). People found out about this new high tech oil and wanted my dad to change to it in their vehicle. He would refuse unless they understood what would happen. Sure enough unless they had an almost new car, the rest almost always started using oil.
No one in their right mind would run ANY oil for these ridiculously long intervals, it's marketing nonsense. I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and change my oil every 6000 to 7000 miles, depending on the type of driving I'm doing. That said, you simply cannot judge any oil's performance by how it looks coming out of the engine. Only a proper laboratory analysis (Blackstone) can tell you how the oil has performed.
Which is the better Engine Oil in-between three ones for my Nissan Terrano Diesel 2014 Model. 1lac80 thousand Driven. 1) Mobil 1™ 5W-30 2) Mobil Super™ 3000 X1 Formula FE 5W-30 3) Mobil 1™ ESP Formula 5W-30
I have found that in many vehicles I have owned or changed oil in, 5000-6000 km seems to be the best or latest you should wait to change it when using the full synthetic mobil 1. I just find it turns black and used around that range. I just picked up some truck and suv mobil 1 full synthetic on sale and I am hoping to see better results over a few oil changes.
I thought I was the only one who noticed the same thing you have noticed... I put it in my wife's stock 12 Altima and more oil was missing than what I normally use, I use regular Mobil 1 and Pennzoil all full synthetic. And I gave it 2 attempts thinking it was a bad batch of oil. I don't think I would ever trust it to be extended performance. I will never trust it for more than what the traditional synthetic oil intervals would go for... Thank you for the video
The problem is that you use different oil for your car the extended oil you showed is 5w30 and the regular one was 10w30 so you have to check on the motor cap what kind of oil you need to fill Kind regards
I been using the regular full synthetic Mobil 1 and no problem. I used the extended performance and I noticed I was missing half a quart. I’m going to switch back and I will see what happens.
Hold on, you use (thicker)10w30 normal Mobil 1 then (thinner)5w30 mobil 1 extended performance? That seem like you put wrong oil SAE viscosity…. My advice is to do what manufacturer’s recommended oil viscosity for your vehicle..
A one year period on a car that doesnt get driven much is nothing. I change my mother's jeep patriot once a year with Mobil 1 Extended and a mobil 1 20,000 mile filter. She drives it maybe 4000-5000 miles a year and it sets in a heated garage. When I change it it's barely dirty at all.
@@runningrich, boy, you wait till oil turns BLACK? Maybe after 20k miles! Not when oil change after 5-7.5 miles. Darker color yes, but not BLACK! Okay?
@@runningrich, something is not right here. Contaminants coming in from the air filter. Never experience such during my 50+ years driving. Been through many many used cars. I never, never buy new cars. I always check, if need to, change engine oil and air filter. Never have I seen BLACK engine oil at oil change darker color yes. Also, never had any engine issues, change my car every 3-5 years. I love cars. Talk to your mechanic.
You Shouldn't Make Videos Of Stuff You Dont Know What Your Talking About. I Run Mobil 1 Full Synthic 15,000 Mile Extended Oil In My 2012 Chevy Cruze I Ran Up To 16,00 Miles And It Still Wasent Dirty. I Run The Same Oil In My 1988 Chevy Van. I Run Mobil 1 Full Synthic motorcycle Racing Oil 10-40 In My Honda Rancher ATV .
That is incorrect. It can be used all year round. 0W allows the oil to flow the fastest and get to where it needs to quicker. 0W oils have another number affixed to it be it a 20, 30 or 40. This is the number you want to be concerned with in regards to when the engine is fully warned up this is what the weight of the oil becomes. I have run and continue to run 0w20, 0w30 and 0w40 weight oils in gasoline and diesel engines.
I use 0w-30 Mobil, Penzoil in old Civic (belt driven cams) 8-10k km OCI. No noticable difference comparing to 5w-30 when it comes to oil and fuel consumption (or little leaks) during summer days in Eastern Ontario. I think many cars with timing chain, direct injection have higher requirements when it comes to oil.
I'VE ALWAYS USED M1 SYNTHETIC EXTENDED PERFORMANCE OIL AND I ALWAYS CHANGE IT AT 5,000 MILES AND IT ALWAYS SMELLS BURNT AND LOOKS SO BLACK, SO NOW I AM USING REGULAR M1 SYNTHETIC OIL, IS THAT OK???? AND IS THERE A DIFFERENCE WITH HIGH MILEAGE OILS???
I use Mobil 1 extended performance, and Chang oil every 15000 miles. No issues at all. It’s hard to believe that you see 1 quart of oil loss after 8000 miles. I know older car may consume more oil due to wear issue of engine parts.
I agree 100% with your findings and advice. I got the same results and will soon make the same adjustment as you. My test vehicle was a 2013 Hyundai Elantra with 90,000 miles on it. Have used M1 since new. Going back to 5W - 30 Extended and AWAY FROM 5W - 30 Ultra. Like youself I gave it a really good try and didn't like how it performed. I ran it for 8k mi. / Changed to a new oem filter / Topped it off / Ran it for another 8k mi. / Did a complete change. Too *Dangerous* for me . . . Constsant Evap. showing up on the dip stick every 2 weeks ( 1/4 of a Qt. LOW ). This product is a GIMMICK. If you forget or loose track . . . you can easily ruin an engine. No Thanks. Never Again. No obvious signs of burning oil but will pull/change the plugs just to see ?
hi, i bought a mobil 1 oil 5w-30 awhile ago in canadian tire because it was on sale. but its says, "advanced synthetic oil" is this a full synthetic oil? or synthetic blend? was comparing this to castrol edge which is labeled as full synthetic. im about to oil change my 2019 sta fe 2.0T this weekend. and also, owners manual says oil change maintanance interval is every 5,000 kms. i also checked the classification for mobil 1/castrol and both met reqr'd classification on owners manual. need advice which one to use please. thanks.
Based on my research with mobil1 product, this item is a synthetic blend. I have a santafe 2.0t, I change every 8000km because I use a synthetic blend oil.
I use supertech high mileage and change oil every 4500-5K miles on my 09 v6 fusion hitting almost 200K. I have used Castrol which provided the best gas mileage, but they are much costlier than supertech. Don't be surprised if supertech is 100% mobile 1 since exxon/mobile supplies oils to car manufacturers and retailers.
The base stock might be the same but additive will differ. Not a biggie though, as long as you chane it every 5000 miles. If one plans to change it every 10k mi, the M1 EP might be better than SuperTech.
SuperTech is a custom formulation made for WalMart by Warren Distribution. Warren is also the supplier of Amazon Basics full synthetic, Costco's Kirkland full synthetic and also the creators of Mag-1 oil.
Use Pennzoil I tried in 3 different cars 0w20 and 5w30 I can tell difference between mobile and better noise from engines in long run doing oil change every 8k to 10k miles in US also you can use lucas oil stabilizer it's very helpful
@@TheHerennow1 where's your fact sheet that Pennzoil is bad they make the best diesel oil for over 10 years by now and they make the best gas engine car oil the reason being is they use natural additives.
Hay, how have you been? I used Castrol GTX and Castrol Edge many times and they are both good oil. Liqui moly is specific to certain European makes. I dont really have much experience using liqui moly. But I heard good reviews.
Car-Addiction I’m good! Trying to watch all of your uploads! I love the JDM videos. The 300zx transmission swap was amazing. DIY’s makes the car more fun!
We use a lot of LiquiMolly oils and additives in my friends garage. Very good oil. Some costumers have TDI diesel with DPF, and older ones: it's the only synthetic we use for them. His Odyssey is around 400k km with LiquiMolly, and going. However, I don't recommend over 10-12k OCI, whatever magic oil companies come up with. Also Eneos, a lesser know Japanese brand makes excellent lubricants: engine oil, ATFs, other fluids. Basically we try to use German made lubricants for EU produced cars, Japanese Eneos, Idemitsu for Asian cars.
My mechanic was telling me how so many cars have their engines knocking because idiots are actually changing their oil at 20 K...I change my Vette at 3 K miles and my suburban at 4500 miles
I use mobil 1 in GM most so called unreliable engine 5.3 AFM which is well known for oil consumption. Mobil 1 does wonders, my Pick Up is running like it's new with little to none oil consumption with over 120k miles. Modern GM V8 engines loves mobil 1.
Hey brother whats the difference between all the mobil 1's advanced fuel economy/ extended perfomance/ high mileage? Im currently using the advanced fuel economy 0w20 and changed my oil every 6k km or 6months religiously. I use fram full synthetic filter aswell. Thanks
@@runningrich The High Mileage refers to the engine having more than 75,000 miles on it; not that you expect more miles on the oil. that's the extended performance.
The ESP is a full PAO ester blend which is a good oil for over 10k miles however if its in a turbo fitted car or booated engine still change it under 10k high heat brakes down the oil makes it acidic which causes problems on long drain intervals. Point is if its good for over 10k great but still change it under 10k because the way people drive and climate, hot weather and cold weather the heat cycles all contribute to oil breakdown. Long drain oils are much better because they are formed from natural gas not crude oil but dont go thinking change it over 20k miles because these are all twsted in controlled laboratories and not in real world applications and or driving styles weather etc. Also amall amounta of blowby cause oil dilution so its better to change it between 5 and 10k anyway to be sure. Point is long drain oils are very good oils, much better than standard blends just dont run them at 20k if you want look after your engine better.
10W-30 huh. So you never see cold weather. Personally, I use Mobil 1 (0W-20) because Unlike some other Oils, it does not gloop-up my catalytic converter. Even at -10.
I've used extended performance for years. The reason a lot of businesses say not to use it is because they won't get your business as often. Several tests have shown mobile 1 extended performance and other oils lasts well beyond their limits.
You can use 0w-30, a little thicker than 5w-20 but better high temp protection. Mobil, Pennzoil, others they're all OK, just don't try to make 15k km up on it, 10-12k depending on the climate and car use. And check the level at least once a month. Some cars just have tendency to use some oil more than others.
Any SN rated motor oil would be fine as would regular Mobil 1 or Mobil 1 Extended Performance. Either one would do very nicely in your car and protect it for years.
Hello do you know why the new mobil 1 oil rated GF-6 instead of GF-5? My vehicle engine required only GF-5 and most of the new brand of oils are now GF-6
I wonder if this oil is not intended for Big Rigs that have an average oil/filter change every 25,000 miles. I know of no Auto Manufacturer who recomends going beyond their service interval as stated in the Owners Manual.
@@runningrich Does it say "for gasoline and diesle engins" on the canister? I know Big Rigs use a heavier weight oil but the addative package might be the same.
Not one sane person tries to go 15k miles on an oil change.. And being Ford now requires them at 7k miles on the Eco boosted engines. As them Turbos need it. Why they now install catch cans. As whom ever thought GDI was great idea on gasoline engines. Should be flogged..
If you lost oil then you need to add a little bit more of oil..It's normal. People says...my car burning oil...my car lost oil.. It's all stupidity.. Your running a machine...consisted of hard metal.. That's the outcome of everything...That's why you putting an oil.. Extra care and understanding of your car is extremely needed.
I had to turn the volume down because the intro was so loud and then all of a sudden you started talking and I couldn't hear you so I turned the volume all the way back up and then all of a sudden you had a breakaway to a promo that was loud as hell again and nearly burst my ear drums and then it went right back to being quiet
Never had the extended performance mobile1 showing lower on the dipstick in between oil changes. I changed mine every 5,000 miles on a 2012, F350, and to 2018 Nissan rogue’s
Don’t waste your money Walmart Super Tech is as good as the more expensive oils. Best oil is clean oil. Change it every 3000-5000 miles and your vehicle will last many miles.
Walmart has all the same numbers and letters as the more expensive oils. API approved and is half the price of Mobil One. Cool endorsements and pretty labels don’t make a better oil.
Definitely missing out if you are still a mobil1 fan. Schaffer full synthetic racing is the only way to go. But it ain’t cheap. The amazon basics synthetic believe it or not will out perform Mobil 1 synthetic extended, in regards to longevity.
If you’re using mobil 1 on a direct injection diesel try esp 5w30 with the green lid. I use this oil on all our direct injection vw motors petrol and diesel
I agree I like the regular one better. I'm curious about royal purple you should try and do a review. Alot of people say royal purple is best. Try and let us know.
About 10 years ago I owned a Oldsmobile Alero, I use nothing but full synthetic oil in everything I drive, in that car I tried Royal Purple and the car ran OK but when I tried the Lucas oil, I noticed it gave my car a noticeable increase in power, the cost of these 2 oils drove me to purchase cheaper oils, the Alero and my current Honda used Valvoline but seem to run better with Mobile 1.
This is all anecdotal observation of the condition of the oil from your car as you SEE it in the drain pan and the dipstick. What you see doesn't mean squat. Next time send your oil in to be analyzed by a reputable lab like Blackstone and get a real look at the condition of your oil. I run M1 extended 5w/20 in my Ford F150 with the 302 V8 for 10,000 miles which 6-7K miles is towing a 4500lb trailer. I sent my M1 Ext life oil to be tested (twice) and it was just fine after 10K with almost full viscosity and nothing but normal particulate matter. I could have run to 15K mile with no worries. Was it black, Yes. Did I have to put some oil in my engine to top it off, Yes. This is all normal. If you want to do an accurate analysis of your oil, test it, then get back with your resaults.
The only way to compare different oils is to do an oil analysis . Anything like, how it looks, how it feels, how the motor sound is way too subjective.
@@runningrich also done through oil analysis. You did not compare the same weight of oils so you adding oil between changes means very little. Your comparison is just way too subjective and has virtually no science behind it whatsoever.
Because it's not API certified..And the only one that is. Someone else makes for them... So if there to cheap to invest an an API certified factory. I'm not using the stuff....
@@LoveLikeaHurricane Horse shit.. Scam Oil is not API certified. Look on the damn container.. It's missing.. As I said. If your too cheap to spend the $500.00 to get one..I'm not using it. As I want an outside agency checking the production. So I get what I paid for.. And if you tell me it's a better oil. You better not tell me because their always changing it..As that my friend means I have no clue what I'm getting.. Why Manufacturers require you use API Certified lubricants only.. And stop giving yourself a thumbs up..You can see it Public Schooled one.. Have a nice day...
@@runningrich your video has a terrible like/dislike record. It's because you clickbait people into viewing. Be better than that, or continue being the scrub you are.
I've used Mobile extended performance in my Toyota truck for over 20 years, changing it every 15k miles. Now has over 500,000 miles, still runs great. No oil issues what so ever.
What truck was it?
@@runningrich 1995 T100. I bought it in 1997 with 34k miles
I love that truck. Do you still have it?
Weell we're waiting
Calling bullshit on it having half a million miles and you change oils every 15k miles. a truck that old has so much sludge and grime
I've read that an oil getting black means that it removes the sludge from the engine or it keeps the sludge suspended in it versus letting it stick to the engine. Not a bad thing!
That's true. My concern was higher evaporation than normal.
@@runningrich very odd indeed!
@@runningrich When synthetics came out in the 80s like Mobil SHC they said they cleaned better but also caused the engine to burn oil. Since the Mobil1 EP is made of Group IV base stocks while the regular Mobil1 isn't a true synthetic, maybe that old saying still holds true?
@@runningrich if its a newer car like after 2000 the oil consumption is probably related to the piston rings
PrimalMiltos, do you use good oil filter? Check that out!
Well to start with, those are two different oil viscosities in your hands; the regular Mobil1 Full Synthetic is 10W-30. Whereas the Mobil1 Extended Performance is 5W-30, so that would be the most logical explanation of why you're losing more oil. Also, the Extended Performance oil given its lower viscosity and better additive package will clean better thus the oil getting darker sooner, hope that helps.
I didnt have a regular 5w-30 while filming, this used a 10w30 bottle. My observation is based on mobil1 regular 5w30 and extended performance 5w30.
I spoke with a Nascar technician and he said if your engine does burn oil the Mobile 1 is the best choice to stick with because it leaves the fewest deposits in the combustion chamber. I'm using Mobile 1 extended mileage in my 2015 Toyota Highlander which has a 3.5 L V6. This engine has 160,000 miles on it and hasn't burned any oil luckily. At that's noticeable when checking the oil level.I have changed the oil every 5,000 miles and recently sent an oil sample to Blackstone which will test the quality of your oil. That test came back with the oil still having 86% viscosity and in great condition. I've sent the latest sample of the engine oil now after 6,000 miles and am going to compare results. On another note there's no way to touch oil and see what condition it's in accuratly.. Unless it's turned into sludge then you know your engine is done for. Good video and keep the coming. Thank you!
So what happened with your results?
@@michaelrivera1249 So far so good. I'm going on an 8,000 mile change. I'm sure you've watched videos on UA-cam warning people to just change their oil every 5,000 miles, or whatever the manufacturer recommends. I'm also going to put an endoscope down the valve cover to inspect for any varnishing.. so far I don't see any looking with a flash light, but I could be missing something.
@@RobTF9 Wow, that is great research on your end. Please consider making a video and sharing. All the best.
My 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited 5.2 V8 is still going strong for 28 years without engine or transmission overhaul. Right now it is nearly 421,000 miles. Several years ago, I've used conventional oil then blue smoke came out from tail pipe as I didn't like so, I switched to standard 5W-30 Mobil One Synthetic oil (no high mileage or extended) plus, engine restoration solution with Royal Purple oil filter for years without any problem or always passed smog check. Also, I've reduced engine thermostat to 15 degrees (180 instead of 195 degrees) to prolong engine life. I changing oil every 6 months (Spring and Fall since retired is fewer driving) or 5,000 miles but not beyond 7,000 or 8,000 miles. Also, I've used mostly Chevron 87 octane gas of trying not get a cheap gas brand too.
Thats fantastic 420k miles on your Jeep..Almost half a million..Keep going that way..Im personally stick to Mobil 1 Full synthetic Extended Performance 5-w30 and Mobil 1 Oil Filter..Everything works perfect..I personally change oil every 3.5k-4k miles..
Even 3 years old this is an interesting video. Recently, I'm changing up my oil strategy,
I was just about to buy the 5W-30 Extended Performance oil on Amazon when I came across your video. I'm actually buying the EP for max engine protection which is the goal. I would never go 20,000 miles between oil changes. Anyway, there are a few things to cause you losing a bit of oil. The biggest one you didn't reveal in the video is how many miles is on the engine? From how you describe the use of your vehicle in either case, I think your still ahead of the game. Your engine could be at that point where the oil control rings are just starting to show their age? The fact that your losing a bit in either case points to this.
At the time of the video I had 110k miles on the vehicle
Mobil 1 synthetic is the only oil, I have used for the last 7 to 8 years it my only oil, I change my oil 4000 or 5000 to help keep the motor clean inside 👍
4000-5000 is a little too early for a synthetic oil change. Still lots of life left in the oil.
@@runningrich I usually. change it because it's usually dark color by 5000 miles
G Lanphear color means nothing
True
@@swaggerjacker1482 oh really Lol if the oil is black at 3000 miles I'm changing it
My 2013 Prius recommends 10,000 mile oil changes. I've only done that once or twice back when the engine was fairly new. The Toyota service advisor even recommends against that. UA-cam videos since then have taught me the 10,000 mile oil changes will safely get your engine past warranty and also yuck up the oil rings leading to oil consumption.
Now is every 5,000 miles. Oil is cheap (I believe Toyota uses synthetic blend), engines are expensive.
I do my other 3 vehicles myself using regular Mobil 1 of the correct weight.
Use a full synthetic and change at regular manufacture recommended intervals or even a little earlier. You will never regret it. It will keep your car running great
Yeah…its all about regular oil changes and not being lazy or cheap. Full synthetic just means it has a certain amount of pure synthetic in it, hopefully government regs makes them increase the quality of oil soon.
So you’re saying your engine burned a lot more oil when you ran the extended performance? I’m no engine mechanic so I can’t say why that is but after I made the switch back to Mobil 1, I decided to go with the EP over the regular Mobile one because I figured the extended performance would have a lot more additive in it
@@mg8718 it’s pretty good oil but it’s not the best made. I can think of quite a few oils that are better than Mobil 1, even the EP that’s not even a Group IV base.
MOBIL 1 IS BY FAR THE VERY BEST ENGINE OIL EVER FUKIN MADE PERIOD. CASE IS CLOSED.@@billplaisance6387
Did you run the Mobil 1 Extended to the full 25.000 KM? Long oil change intervals are ok if your driving highway most of the time .Also you were saying that your vehicle idles a lot. If you stick with the 8000 KM oil change, you will be good. I never go over 5000 Miles in my cars. Good video.
I personally never had the courage to go 25k on an oilchange. My brother on his 3 series went to 20k without oilchange and it was showing low oil level. Mind it, it was a 4 year old 40k vehicle.
I just have one question, did you make sure that Mobil EP oil you used is compatible with GDI engines? Let alone a turbocharged engine?
Usually synthetic oil is ok to use in GDI engines. I have been using the regular for a long time, just the extended performance oil is the issue.
Just had lifter tick noise on 13 Yukon Denali, the previous oil used was from dealer , probably their cheap full synthetic, Dealer told me a $1200 Deposit for labor to fix issue---Read about Mobile 1-- Got an oil change today and after driving for less than 10min, my lifter tick issue stop and engine purring again like new- I am a believer and going forward nuthn but Mobile 1 full synthetic
While not a scientific test allowing us to say the EP is 'bad' I'm going to share my experience between 0W-30 (other brand) and 5W-30 EP. After changing to EP, right away the engine had some top engine clatter (engine has 35K miles). I didn't remember this clatter with the 0W-30 oil. The only guess is the EP is a much thicker oil, perhaps even thicker than a normal 5W-30 synthetic.
What is EP. Sorry I didn't understand
@@runningrichExtended Performance
I am currently 12000 km into my oil drain interval and 1 year is just in a couple of weeks using a 5W-20 Mobil1 EP HM. I am planning to keep this oil for another year. It looks nice and clean. And the car haven't used a drop of it. I am sure 2 years and 25000 km are doable with no visible change in oil level.
No vehicle manufacturer says you can go 20,000 miles or 25,000 km on an oil change people need to stick to their vehicle manufacturers recommendations for severe driving conditions
This is all I use (Mobil 1 extended 5w30) and I change it every 5000 roughly and the oil is never black it’s always like a dark red idk if that’s good or not but it is my go to
Mobile 1 extended full synthetic oil is good for 20,000 Mile's. You can't beat that with a stick
Lol.
@@juliorosenberg2222 extended performance 20,000 oil is for someone who drives 90% highway miles on longer trips and no cold weather. For people who drives mostly short trips, stop and go traffic or in cold climates, oil need to be changed at 5k miles or 5 months. Going longer on oil changes can ruin your engine in the future.
Follow normal oil change cycles, I use extended performance and just change it on normal interval. 20k miles is a stretch. Black oil means it may be doing a better job cleaning
i do the same. i dont mind the $2 extra....i use extended but i change around 4k
to me the issue is more leaving a dirty oil filter in for that long not so much the oil.
@@michaelcrockette8694 I mean, you can change just the filter… but heck youre already there just replace the oil too😂
From personal experience Castro oil turns black the fastest so that means it cleans better? Lol
It also turns black due to heat cycles..
Must be something wrong with your motor. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic and I drive 5,000 miles between oil changes. Every time I check it the oil is still full, even when I change it at 5,000 miles. I use the Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic.
You’ve got fantastic motor oil company stuck to the side of your toolbox, Amsoil! Which do you think is better?
Amsoil all the way.. they literally invented synthetic oil technology.
Remember the basics folks. Engine oil is designed to cool, clean, lubricate, and seal. Black oil is a great thing,…it’s cleaning. Now, if you don’t change the oil and filter routinely then black oil will continue to get darker and darker and turn into sludge.
You can put new oil in your vehicle, start it and let it run for 2 minutes. Then check the condition of the oil. Looks dark.
The blackness of the oil is the sludge left from the other oil, and the resin the oil goes down faster is because the sludge is keeping the oil from leaking past the pistin and getting burned off. That is why people use high millage for engines that burn a lot of oil. It builds up sludge and keeps the engine from burning as much.
True but high mileage oil isn't designed to create sludge, LOL. It includes a swelling agent to try and make the engine seals bigger/more flexible again.
I have used Mobil 1 EP for several years and I think it is an outstanding motor oil. The Mobil 1 EP stands up as promised and I have had a number of used oil analysis (UOA) samples to prove it. The fact that your car burns oil is a reflection of who made the engine, who is driving the car and how they drive it. I have never burned any oil in any car within the last 25 years (Lexus). The only time I ever burned oil was using original Mobil 1 in 1991 while driving cross country in a heavily laden car doing high speeds on the super highway for several days on end and that was an early 5W30. After that trip the car (Acura Legend) never used oil again. I continue to have full confidence in Mobil 1 EP and use it not only in my car but in my daughter's car as well, a 1999 Honda Civic with 158,000 miles. For a car that burns oil, you might try a High Mileage formula or "German Castrol", as some on BITOG believe it to be more viscous.
I also have observed the same phenomenon. My car is around 160,000 miles and all the time it got Mobil1 full synthetic oil. This time I put the Mobil1 extended 10,000 miles something, and the engine was running low after I checked at 2000 miles. Also, there I observed more knocking in the engine during this time. So I am going to stick to Mobil1 full synthetic original one.
Thank you for your feedback. Atleaat i am not the only one experienced the same issue.
Knocking in your engine? Sounds like a spun bearing.
Mobil 1 EP is better than the fully synthetic Mobil 1. It doesn't matter what you "perceive" about engine smoothness, or how black the oil becomes. Oil analysis doesn't lie. Mobil 1 EP has better base oil and a better additive package. If you can afford it, use it.
I would suspect the EP has better additives and better cleaning properties. Cleaning buildup especially carbon will result in darker oil and this removal may cause higher oil consumption. When I was a kid my dad had a gas station. Most vehicles used 30 weight oil then 30 weight HD came out (High Detergent). People found out about this new high tech oil and wanted my dad to change to it in their vehicle. He would refuse unless they understood what would happen. Sure enough unless they had an almost new car, the rest almost always started using oil.
That is an interesting observation. Thanks for meeting me know. Funny enough, when I went back to Mobil1 regular. The consumption was far less.
No one in their right mind would run ANY oil for these ridiculously long intervals, it's marketing nonsense. I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and change my oil every 6000 to 7000 miles, depending on the type of driving I'm doing. That said, you simply cannot judge any oil's performance by how it looks coming out of the engine. Only a proper laboratory analysis (Blackstone) can tell you how the oil has performed.
Thank you for your comment. Please consider subscribing
You're right. It is not worthy.
No.. marketers tend to undersell the miles of protection. They want people changing oil as frequent as possible.
@@JunkBondTrader Car manufacturers market these long drain intervals, not the oil companies.
Which is the better Engine Oil in-between three ones for my Nissan Terrano Diesel 2014 Model. 1lac80 thousand Driven.
1) Mobil 1™ 5W-30
2) Mobil Super™ 3000 X1 Formula FE 5W-30
3) Mobil 1™ ESP Formula 5W-30
Mobil 1 5w-30
I am in the oil industry….. oil is all primarily MARKETING! Change per manual and it all works the same.
I wish I can have the opportunity to pick your brain on stuff.
I have found that in many vehicles I have owned or changed oil in, 5000-6000 km seems to be the best or latest you should wait to change it when using the full synthetic mobil 1. I just find it turns black and used around that range. I just picked up some truck and suv mobil 1 full synthetic on sale and I am hoping to see better results over a few oil changes.
I thought I was the only one who noticed the same thing you have noticed... I put it in my wife's stock 12 Altima and more oil was missing than what I normally use, I use regular Mobil 1 and Pennzoil all full synthetic. And I gave it 2 attempts thinking it was a bad batch of oil. I don't think I would ever trust it to be extended performance. I will never trust it for more than what the traditional synthetic oil intervals would go for... Thank you for the video
Glad to know I'm not the only one. Just switch to regular synthetic. Extended performance is a gimmick.
The problem is that you use different oil for your car the extended oil you showed is 5w30 and the regular one was 10w30 so you have to check on the motor cap what kind of oil you need to fill
Kind regards
During the time of video, I only had those 2 bottles at home. I used 5w30 for both oils.
How do you afford the fuel in Canada for all that driving?
I been using the regular full synthetic Mobil 1 and no problem. I used the extended performance and I noticed I was missing half a quart. I’m going to switch back and I will see what happens.
That's exactly was my point.
Hold on, you use (thicker)10w30 normal Mobil 1 then (thinner)5w30 mobil 1 extended performance? That seem like you put wrong oil SAE viscosity…. My advice is to do what manufacturer’s recommended oil viscosity for your vehicle..
Where did you get that?
A one year period on a car that doesnt get driven much is nothing. I change my mother's jeep patriot once a year with Mobil 1 Extended and a mobil 1 20,000 mile filter. She drives it maybe 4000-5000 miles a year and it sets in a heated garage. When I change it it's barely dirty at all.
i drive 1k a year and i normally change every year
Could the dark color or black oil comes from contamination through the air filter over time?
Burnt oil turns black..
@@runningrich, boy, you wait till oil turns BLACK? Maybe after 20k miles! Not when oil change after 5-7.5 miles. Darker color yes, but not BLACK! Okay?
My change interval is 8k km. It turns pitch black by then.
@@runningrich, something is not right here. Contaminants coming in from the air filter. Never experience such during my 50+ years driving. Been through many many used cars. I never, never buy new cars. I always check, if need to, change engine oil and air filter. Never have I seen BLACK engine oil at oil change darker color yes. Also, never had any engine issues, change my car every 3-5 years. I love cars. Talk to your mechanic.
It's not containment. It's the oil turning black when heated.
I would change it more often using the high mileage extended performance.
UA-cam: synthetic oil vs conventional oil lab owner sets us straight.
I think Farm project has a walmart oil vs some other oil video. Will check that. His experiments are pretty detail.
Subscribed. I love opinions.
Thank you brother
You Shouldn't Make Videos Of Stuff You Dont Know What Your Talking About. I Run Mobil 1 Full Synthic 15,000 Mile Extended Oil In My 2012 Chevy Cruze I Ran Up To 16,00 Miles And It Still Wasent Dirty. I Run The Same Oil In My 1988 Chevy Van. I Run Mobil 1 Full Synthic motorcycle Racing Oil 10-40 In My Honda Rancher ATV .
You should try a 0W-xx fully synthetic motor oil. Most wear occurs at startup, when the oil is cold. A 0W will protect better when motor is cold.
0w oil is only good in extreme cold unless specified.
That is incorrect. It can be used all year round. 0W allows the oil to flow the fastest and get to where it needs to quicker. 0W oils have another number affixed to it be it a 20, 30 or 40. This is the number you want to be concerned with in regards to when the engine is fully warned up this is what the weight of the oil becomes. I have run and continue to run 0w20, 0w30 and 0w40 weight oils in gasoline and diesel engines.
I use 0w-30 Mobil, Penzoil in old Civic (belt driven cams) 8-10k km OCI. No noticable difference comparing to 5w-30 when it comes to oil and fuel consumption (or little leaks) during summer days in Eastern Ontario. I think many cars with timing chain, direct injection have higher requirements when it comes to oil.
That oil is too thin for your motor. Try at least 10w 40 or a 15w 40.
Good to hear. Use the 0w40. When the oil seeps through the seals on the motor all over, let me know.
Very black means it’s doing his job…right?
I'VE ALWAYS USED M1 SYNTHETIC EXTENDED PERFORMANCE OIL AND I ALWAYS CHANGE IT AT 5,000 MILES AND IT ALWAYS SMELLS BURNT AND LOOKS SO BLACK, SO NOW I AM USING REGULAR M1 SYNTHETIC OIL, IS THAT OK???? AND IS THERE A DIFFERENCE WITH HIGH MILEAGE OILS???
I personally prefer the regular M1 synthetic oil.
@@runningrich Thank you
@@runningrich I'll see how this oil holds up
Mark Cee use high mileage oil after 75,000 miles. It best to start using it before leaks start.
I use Mobil 1 extended performance, and Chang oil every 15000 miles. No issues at all. It’s hard to believe that you see 1 quart of oil loss after 8000 miles. I know older car may consume more oil due to wear issue of engine parts.
my car is a 2014 hyundai santafe 2.0T. not an old car.
That is too many miles. Oil is cheap engines are expensive.
I agree 100% with your findings and advice. I got the same results and will soon make the same adjustment as you. My test vehicle was a 2013 Hyundai Elantra with 90,000 miles on it. Have used M1 since new. Going back to 5W - 30 Extended and AWAY FROM 5W - 30 Ultra.
Like youself I gave it a really good try and didn't like how it performed. I ran it for 8k mi. / Changed to a new oem filter / Topped it off / Ran it for another 8k mi. / Did a complete change.
Too *Dangerous* for me . . . Constsant Evap. showing up on the dip stick every 2 weeks
( 1/4 of a Qt. LOW ). This product is a GIMMICK.
If you forget or loose track . . . you can easily ruin an engine.
No Thanks. Never Again.
No obvious signs of burning oil but will pull/change the plugs just to see ?
Thank you for confirming my findings. Mobil1 should look into this.
My Honda Accord accord2003 recommends 5w-20 but I put 10W-50 mobile one. Am I doing damage to my vehicle ?
Yes you are damaging your engine. Use recommended weight.
@@runningrich my mechanic told me 5w-20 burns my oil to fast. So he recommended 5w-50. Sheesh I need to start doing my own oil change. Thanks
Your mechanic is wack. Lol. If your car is burning oil, means there some other problem.
@@Lavishking714 At 5/50 in a cold climate your engine would be toast way to thick.
I recommend you use 5w 20 high mileage oil. It will be safe than 10w 50.
hi, i bought a mobil 1 oil 5w-30 awhile ago in canadian tire because it was on sale. but its says, "advanced synthetic oil"
is this a full synthetic oil? or synthetic blend? was comparing this to castrol edge which is labeled as full synthetic.
im about to oil change my 2019 sta fe 2.0T this weekend. and also, owners manual says oil change maintanance interval is every 5,000 kms.
i also checked the classification for mobil 1/castrol and both met reqr'd classification on owners manual.
need advice which one to use please. thanks.
Based on my research with mobil1 product, this item is a synthetic blend. I have a santafe 2.0t, I change every 8000km because I use a synthetic blend oil.
It's full synthetic....all mobil 1 is....mobil super is available in both.
Do u think that its possible that the oil was dark from the deterrents in the oil cleaning the engine components better
Dark because it evaporated.
I use supertech high mileage and change oil every 4500-5K miles on my 09 v6 fusion hitting almost 200K. I have used Castrol which provided the best gas mileage, but they are much costlier than supertech. Don't be surprised if supertech is 100% mobile 1 since exxon/mobile supplies oils to car manufacturers and retailers.
Good to know. I have never used supertech oil. I will give that a shot.
The base stock might be the same but additive will differ. Not a biggie though, as long as you chane it every 5000 miles.
If one plans to change it every 10k mi, the M1 EP might be better than SuperTech.
SuperTech is a custom formulation made for WalMart by Warren Distribution. Warren is also the supplier of Amazon Basics full synthetic, Costco's Kirkland full synthetic and also the creators of Mag-1 oil.
@@jpogigtxcr1778 SuperTech has their own EP now as well.
Its Not full snythetic its group 3 refined crude with aditives, an d Motul and Amsoil are group 4 POAs and are true are full snythectic oils.
Use Pennzoil I tried in 3 different cars 0w20 and 5w30 I can tell difference between mobile and better noise from engines in long run doing oil change every 8k to 10k miles in US also you can use lucas oil stabilizer it's very helpful
Penzoil is garbage. And Lucas anything is trash. This is common knowledge
Which one is good in your opinion?
@@TheHerennow1 where's your fact sheet that Pennzoil is bad they make the best diesel oil for over 10 years by now and they make the best gas engine car oil the reason being is they use natural additives.
Lucas oil stabilizer is BS
Whats the true difference between Mobil1 High Mileage and Mobil1 Super High Mileage? I think its the same oil
I have not used them, I cannot comment on it.
I never thought about this. I will keep this in mind when I change brands/types.
Do you have experience with castrol/liqui moly?
Hay, how have you been? I used Castrol GTX and Castrol Edge many times and they are both good oil. Liqui moly is specific to certain European makes. I dont really have much experience using liqui moly. But I heard good reviews.
Car-Addiction
I’m good! Trying to watch all of your uploads!
I love the JDM videos. The 300zx transmission swap was amazing. DIY’s makes the car more fun!
Thanks man. The manual swap was a massive undertaking. I am glad I was able to pull it off.
Hi there, what about the Castrol high mileage oil do you know if Castrol high mileage it evaporates?
We use a lot of LiquiMolly oils and additives in my friends garage. Very good oil. Some costumers have TDI diesel with DPF, and older ones: it's the only synthetic we use for them. His Odyssey is around 400k km with LiquiMolly, and going. However, I don't recommend over 10-12k OCI, whatever magic oil companies come up with.
Also Eneos, a lesser know Japanese brand makes excellent lubricants: engine oil, ATFs, other fluids. Basically we try to use German made lubricants for EU produced cars, Japanese Eneos, Idemitsu for Asian cars.
Its thinner oil it will burn off faster and the thinner film will wash off more contaminate - if your engine turbo more so
My mechanic was telling me how so many cars have their engines knocking because idiots are actually changing their oil at 20 K...I change my Vette at 3 K miles and my suburban at 4500 miles
He is right.
I use mobil 1 in GM most so called unreliable engine 5.3 AFM which is well known for oil consumption. Mobil 1 does wonders, my Pick Up is running like it's new with little to none oil consumption with over 120k miles. Modern GM V8 engines loves mobil 1.
Love those LS 5.3 engines. They are amazing.
OK but which Mobil1 ??
Hey brother whats the difference between all the mobil 1's advanced fuel economy/ extended perfomance/ high mileage? Im currently using the advanced fuel economy 0w20 and changed my oil every 6k km or 6months religiously. I use fram full synthetic filter aswell. Thanks
high mileage is supposed to give you 25k oil change intervals.
@@runningrich The High Mileage refers to the engine having more than 75,000 miles on it; not that you expect more miles on the oil. that's the extended performance.
Good job on the oil change intervals but never use Fram filters,,,they are junk.
The ESP is a full PAO ester blend which is a good oil for over 10k miles however if its in a turbo fitted car or booated engine still change it under 10k high heat brakes down the oil makes it acidic which causes problems on long drain intervals. Point is if its good for over 10k great but still change it under 10k because the way people drive and climate, hot weather and cold weather the heat cycles all contribute to oil breakdown. Long drain oils are much better because they are formed from natural gas not crude oil but dont go thinking change it over 20k miles because these are all twsted in controlled laboratories and not in real world applications and or driving styles weather etc. Also amall amounta of blowby cause oil dilution so its better to change it between 5 and 10k anyway to be sure. Point is long drain oils are very good oils, much better than standard blends just dont run them at 20k if you want look after your engine better.
Wrong! I use Mobile 1 extended and Mobile 1 oil filters and never had a problem on the Tahoe and 2 Accords i have. GDI engine is your problem.
All the new engines are GDI, that is the future.
10W-30 huh. So you never see cold weather. Personally, I use Mobil 1 (0W-20) because Unlike some other Oils, it does not gloop-up my catalytic converter. Even at -10.
I'm from Canada. All we have here is cold!
@@runningrich I had a spare place there years ago; you need 0W-20 or maybe 0W-30 '0W'- is for the COLDEST temperatures.
which one is better mobil 1 and pannzoil ultra platinum
I used both, its hard for me to say one is better than the other.
Hello, i use Mobil 1 extended oil for my 2013 Ford focus. Do you think its okay and would you advise if continue to use that. Many thanks.
@Issa Vibez For real ??
@Issa Vibez based on Project Farms review Mobil 1 beats Valvoline in all of the performance tests. In other words, Valvoline sucks.
I've used extended performance for years. The reason a lot of businesses say not to use it is because they won't get your business as often. Several tests have shown mobile 1 extended performance and other oils lasts well beyond their limits.
You can use 0w-30, a little thicker than 5w-20 but better high temp protection. Mobil, Pennzoil, others they're all OK, just don't try to make 15k km up on it, 10-12k depending on the climate and car use. And check the level at least once a month. Some cars just have tendency to use some oil more than others.
Any SN rated motor oil would be fine as would regular Mobil 1 or Mobil 1 Extended Performance. Either one would do very nicely in your car and protect it for years.
Hello do you know why the new mobil 1 oil rated GF-6 instead of GF-5?
My vehicle engine required only GF-5 and most of the new brand of oils are now GF-6
That's an interesting observation. I have to check.
GF-6 is the new standard. Before it was GF-5 SN Plus. Now it’s GF-6 SP.
I wonder if this oil is not intended for Big Rigs that have an average oil/filter change every 25,000 miles. I know of no Auto Manufacturer who recomends going beyond their service interval as stated in the Owners Manual.
Not for big rigs. They have different oil
@@runningrich Does it say "for gasoline and diesle engins" on the canister? I know Big Rigs use a heavier weight oil but the addative package might be the same.
This is for gasoline engines only.
@@runningrich OK. Scotty Killmer gave a good explanation ua-cam.com/video/xfy9UTZ-_o/v-deo.html
Sure, you can have your opinion.
Exactly
I changed my mobile oil at 5000 miles and it was 80% dark
Not one sane person tries to go 15k miles on an oil change.. And being Ford now requires them at 7k miles on the Eco boosted engines. As them Turbos need it. Why they now install catch cans. As whom ever thought GDI was great idea on gasoline engines. Should be flogged..
If you lost oil then you need to add a little bit more of oil..It's normal.
People says...my car burning oil...my car lost oil..
It's all stupidity..
Your running a machine...consisted of hard metal..
That's the outcome of everything...That's why you putting an oil..
Extra care and understanding of your car is extremely needed.
Listen to the whole thing again and try to understand my problem.
I have a GDI turbocharged car with 159,000 miles. I'm trying mobil 1 extended performance in it next.
Let us know how that goes for you.
I had to turn the volume down because the intro was so loud and then all of a sudden you started talking and I couldn't hear you so I turned the volume all the way back up and then all of a sudden you had a breakaway to a promo that was loud as hell again and nearly burst my ear drums and then it went right back to being quiet
Are you mechanical engineer? Work on lab?
NO. please stop to explain sth about oils.
Lab results and practical results are different.
Never had the extended performance mobile1 showing lower on the dipstick in between oil changes. I changed mine every 5,000 miles on a 2012, F350, and to 2018 Nissan rogue’s
Huh, after using the extended oil ... I'm burning 1 liter per 2500km and leaking oil.. interesting.
Wow. That is very weird. Go back to using the previous oil you used. Let us know your findings.
Don’t waste your money Walmart Super Tech is as good as the more expensive oils. Best oil is clean oil. Change it every 3000-5000 miles and your vehicle will last many miles.
Your point is somewhat true. But mostly inaccurate.
Why is that? Explain
Walmart has all the same numbers and letters as the more expensive oils. API approved and is half the price of Mobil One. Cool endorsements and pretty labels don’t make a better oil.
Definitely missing out if you are still a mobil1 fan. Schaffer full synthetic racing is the only way to go. But it ain’t cheap.
The amazon basics synthetic believe it or not will out perform Mobil 1 synthetic extended, in regards to longevity.
If you’re using mobil 1 on a direct injection diesel try esp 5w30 with the green lid. I use this oil on all our direct injection vw motors petrol and diesel
I agree I like the regular one better. I'm curious about royal purple you should try and do a review. Alot of people say royal purple is best. Try and let us know.
Royal purple is a good brand of oil. But at a higher price point. I would love to review the product if they send me some samples.
About 10 years ago I owned a Oldsmobile Alero, I use nothing but full synthetic oil in everything I drive, in that car I tried Royal Purple and the car ran OK but when I tried the Lucas oil, I noticed it gave my car a noticeable increase in power, the cost of these 2 oils drove me to purchase cheaper oils, the Alero and my current Honda used Valvoline but seem to run better with Mobile 1.
I use super tech or GTX edge in my 1999 Hyundai Elantra with a purolator oil filter
This is all anecdotal observation of the condition of the oil from your car as you SEE it in the drain pan and the dipstick. What you see doesn't mean squat. Next time send your oil in to be analyzed by a reputable lab like Blackstone and get a real look at the condition of your oil. I run M1 extended 5w/20 in my Ford F150 with the 302 V8 for 10,000 miles which 6-7K miles is towing a 4500lb trailer. I sent my M1 Ext life oil to be tested (twice) and it was just fine after 10K with almost full viscosity and nothing but normal particulate matter. I could have run to 15K mile with no worries. Was it black, Yes. Did I have to put some oil in my engine to top it off, Yes. This is all normal. If you want to do an accurate analysis of your oil, test it, then get back with your resaults.
The only way to compare different oils is to do an oil analysis . Anything like, how it looks, how it feels, how the motor sound is way too subjective.
What about evaporation rate?
@@runningrich also done through oil analysis. You did not compare the same weight of oils so you adding oil between changes means very little. Your comparison is just way too subjective and has virtually no science behind it whatsoever.
I think you skipped the intro.
Nice AMSOIL sticker in the background...
hehe. I have been using amsoil for my Z for the longest time.
Amsoil is best if you can afford it.
They are really good.
Hello saudoon chacho I am sana I like your channel car addiction 😁
Hay Sana... thank you so much. I'm so happy to see you here... how are you?
@@runningrich I am fine chacho how are you?
I'm doing great!!
I was thinking same but m1 full synthetic is a group 3 we’re m1 full extended is real synthetic group 4
Burning it through your pistons, not evaporating approx 1/2 pint.
Mobil 1 EP is $25 a jug in walmart. That's regular everyday price
$25 USD. But in Canada $29 CAD is when it's on sale.
Even a bit less today on roll-back.
That's a good price
your problem....is cos you are driving a Hyundai GDI engine
Not a good response.
Try Mobil 1 High Mileage , it has a stouter add pack.
Will do. Thanks.
Less than scientific, and two different viscosities. I’d be happy to use either Mobil 1 or Mobil 1 Extended Performance - and I have.
You need to test the Pennzoil ultra platinum and see how do like it
That's a good oil. I run them at times when they come on sale..
One of the best oils ever made what are you talking about?
Evaporation rate
Considering you have an Amsoil sticker, surprised you don’t use Amsoil OE
Lol. I became an amsoil dealer. I moved to amsoil OE on my daily drivers and amsoil zrod on the fun cars.
Because it's not API certified..And the only one that is. Someone else makes for them...
So if there to cheap to invest an an API certified factory. I'm not using the stuff....
@@WizzRacing Amsoil OE is API certified. Only their Signature Series isn't and is definitely a better oil.
@@LoveLikeaHurricane Horse shit.. Scam Oil is not API certified. Look on the damn container.. It's missing..
As I said. If your too cheap to spend the $500.00 to get one..I'm not using it. As I want an outside agency checking the production. So I get what I paid for..
And if you tell me it's a better oil. You better not tell me because their always changing it..As that my friend means I have no clue what I'm getting..
Why Manufacturers require you use API Certified lubricants only..
And stop giving yourself a thumbs up..You can see it Public Schooled one..
Have a nice day...
Blah blah you waste the best oil in shitboxes. Mobil1 is the best for decent engines/ race engines
I thought they were both full synthetic?
Synthetic blend.
You get what you pay for.
Amsoil is everywhere.
"Extreme" cold doesn't have much influence upon synthetic Oil
Really..
Quit watching after you said oil was black and not very gooy or anything. Stick with actual evidence like a uoa.
Can not express enough "FOLLOW THE OWNERS MANUAL! read the small print!" Beware of Marketing Ploys used by oil companies !
Great point!
what about pennzoil ultra platinum ?
I never used it long enough to make a comment.
Its time you buy amsoil signature series
Very good oil.
Quit trying to use clickbait pictures. Notice the dislikes? the people have spoken.
Lol, see at the likes and comments. People have spoken.
@@runningrich your video has a terrible like/dislike record. It's because you clickbait people into viewing. Be better than that, or continue being the scrub you are.
Not a clickbait I genuinely don't like the mobil1 high milage oil. So does So many other people if you see the comments section.
@@runningrich "tHe WoRsT oIL" uh huh. That's clickbait. That is literally clickbait. You're a liar and a douche now too.
You have no idea what you are talking about. Talking out of a lower body orifice.