I just bought a stihl ms260 used for 275$ Canadian... the chain was toast but after I filled it for hours, it was cutting! my first gas chainsaw in my life MS260 and i filled it chain PLUS it cut like a dream!! wow I was being showered in wood chips, it was incredible.
I've made a living with a chainsaw for over 14 years now. Also, I'm a certified arborist and former tree business owner. Both Stihl and Husqvarna, in their pro line, (pro line is the key word here) are awesome products. Do either of them break, or do parts wear out? Sure, even with proper use & maintenance. Nothing is bulletproof or idiotproof! lol. Wranglerstar knows his stuff. A MS 261 is a great saw. But so is a Husqvarna 357xp. Do yourself a favor looking through all these comments, & trust in the people that actually have done the work, and do a lot of it. Most people are not loggers, or even tree removal services. A mid sized saw 50-60 cc saw would probably be all that you'll ever need. But remember, if you can afford it, get a pro grade saw. A Stihl or a Husqvarna. You'll have it for the rest of your life if you take care of it.
The MS260 or 261 I think is about as close to perfect as you can get for a saw you can do everything with. You cant really go wrong with any pro saw from the top tier saw MFGs from Stihl, Husqvarna/Jonsered/Redmax, Makita/Dolmar, or Echo. I own saws from all those MFG. Not all are pro saws but quite a few of them are. I really like my Makita DCS6421.
Agreed. Very disappointing. A guy rambling about his saw and miscellaneous tidbits of information that is over my head. I did learn one thing ... he uses Stihl and likes the 260 and 261. That at least was helpful
Old video...I have no need for a saw, but living in CA thought I should get something, finally found a 261 in stock and picked it up this weekend...now I need to find someone who needs help clearing land.
I purchased an ms261 a couple years ago. Why did I buy a stihl...well to put it bluntly , I was so tired of dealing with the big box stores lack of support after the sale. Ive got 5 saws in total and stuff gets broken or lost on them. Waiting to use a saw for a couple weeks for a special chain bar nut was the last straw for me. I was aware of the husky/stihl fanatics so I decided to check it out at a LOCAL stihl dealerI .Told him what I had and asked for a durable replacement.Told him I wanted vibration isolation and he recommended the ms261 for me ,on sale I think for 550. When I saw it said made in usa,I decided to give it a try. Its been excellent. What happened afterward was truly amazeing. First he organized all of the paperwork for me and put the receipt in a folder along with the other goodies it came with after takeing it out of the sealed box for me. He then fueled it up for me and gave me a 10 minute startup and care session. When he was done ...he even put it in my trunk for me. I immediately went back in and bought files and other goodies for it which they knew exactly what was the right ones for me.I don't know if all stihl dealers are like this...but I have been back a couple times. The saw is well engineered and has been trouble free....but I had to replace a weedwacker so I bought one nrxt visit. The big box stores are my least favorite store now....I go there only because many of the small time dealers have been run out of business trying to compete with the Chinese junk being sold by the big box stores...(and there IS a lot of chinese junk) I still like Chinese bristle brushes tho .....cheap and disposable!
You stihl says made in USA? I just bought a brand-new ms 461 and its made In Germany. It's a pro series saw. My ms 310 in us made though. Wonder what the deal with that is?
Oh ...yep ,made down south. Not necessarily all models are made there .ms261 is the pro entry point.....stronger ,lighter and vibration insulated. There are some very clever design characteristics ive noticed...for instance many of the plastic body panels have metal grommets where the screw mount points are. The NON-clamshell design is another plus .From the stihl website:. STIHL chainsaws are German-engineered and built in America.* And we're the only gasoline-powered chainsaw manufacturer that designs and manufactures its own bars and chains - to ensure they meet our exacting standards in design and performance. Standards that have made STIHL the clear choice for professionals and homeowners alike. *A majority of STIHL powerheads are built in the United States from domestic and foreign parts and components.
Steven Hardy good to know. I was just looking at one Monday at the dealer. They are very nice saws. My dad has one and its fast and light as a feather. Really liked the looks of the new 661cm . Should have seen the look on the wife's face when I said I better get me one of these. Needless to say I left empty handed that day. Never bring the wife to the saw shop.
This is totally out of my experience, but I am fascinated by it! I just love this gentleman and his lovely family, I can only just wish them all the good will in the world and I hope everything goes well for them!!
I bought a 260 last fall based on your recommendation. WHAT A SAW! Light weight, wonderful balance and a great all around saw. When it hits the powerband, it screams and the chips fly :) Have you played with any of the muffler mods? It supposed to help it breathe a little better.
Love those roll out tool patches. Have several made of leather, my favorite is the one that came with the knife sharpener that has been in the family for 45 years.
My Dad has two Stihl chainsaws, one big and a smaller one, but always had problems with the starting mechanism (paracord splitting and getting cought up inside the housing). When a tree fell on the bigger one, he got himself a Husqvarna, and since then he swears on it. He still has the small one, which is just the right size for limbing and felling a small Christmas tree for the living room, but for the bigger stuff (not the huge sizes Cody has to deal with by far) he says he never had anything better. Thanks for your video on the subject Cody!
I purchased a still 251 cbe last year. I ran it all fall and so far twice this spring. It started on its first or second pull every time and on its first pull the first time out this spring. It cuts like a champ and beats the cap out of my dad's craftsman in weight and power. I was disappointed I could not find a 260 but I am no longer. Thank you for turning me on to Stihl.
I just scored an MS260 two weeks ago; it was used, but probably not for more than an hour and a half. You have to love a great deal on a nearly new saw (1/3 the cost of a new one and the seller even had the original receipt). Now to keep my MS290 as a spare or to trade up? I think the thing will require a bit of TLC to clear out the old fuel and install a new filter.The receipt was from 2003 making it a 12 year old saw with all the paint still on the bar, near showroom condition.
I have an MS660 I use for milling lumber, and I run a chisel cut for milling, but you are right a round tooth design holds an edge longer. But either way use a full skip to sharpen in half the time and it cuts great.
if your going to be bucking or felling any hardwood 14"+ in any sort of quantity I would recommend something in the 60cc range. If your going to burry a 28" bar or bigger in something (also recommend full skip chain) go 72cc+. I personally run both a woods ported Husqvarna 262xp and a Jonsereds 630 with great success.
+Guy Woolford, the spikes are called felling dogs and there is typically an inner dog on most good large saws, but you can add an outer dog as well to have them on both sides of the bar. The dogs on Cody's 260 are larger than would commonly be on a 260, but I'm sure they work well. They are there to help provide a movable but secure pivot point when sawing through a log or tree trunk. I once used my 260 after forgetting to re-install my felling dogs and I stopped immediately and went to re-install them. They save a ton of effort in getting through a large tree. Hope that helps.
David Dube You also said that the title was never addressed, which is clearly what JCrook was talking about. How is the fact that he recommended stuff(and explained what type of chain you should use depending on how you use your saw) not addressing the title?
David Dube You also said that the title was never addressed, which is clearly what JCrook was talking about. How is the fact that he recommended stuff(and explained what type of chain you should use depending on how you use your saw) not addressing the title?
Hi Cody, just curious as to who told you that you cannot file full chisel chains without special tools? Over here in England almost all arborists and foresters such as myself run full chisel chains. We file them with standard round files and they cut just fine so I cannot see what you mean.
I was wondering what he means as well I've always run chisel chain I've filed it with round files. I've been running Stihl Rapid Super chain for years.
charlie palmer Yes, a true full chisel chain is square ground. A ground file cannot keep the square grind on the full chisel. It requires a 6 sided file to sharpen it.
I also own a Stihl MS 260 that has been in storage for several years, and I am getting ready to sell it, as I don't need it anymore. So I came across this video of yours to brush up on how to start and run it again, as it has been a while. Thank you for sharing this! 👍
My two saw combo is the STIHL MS660 with a 28 inch bar and the STIHL 036 with a 20 inch bar. I also have 36 inch bar for larger trees felling and bucking. I run predominantly in hardwood so I sharpen my chain with a less aggressive angle and need a bit more power to run in the hardwood.
wranglerstar If square-filing turns out to be too difficult to do for you, and you don't see yourself getting a square grinder, there is another option; file your square chain with a round file. While it won't perform quite as well as a square-ground chain, it will cut better than a poorly filed one.. and accurate round filing is much easier for most users. In addition, round files are less than half the price of square files. Thanks for the video!
Ive ran a 441c and ms310 for years,but 2 years ago i bought a ms250 woth an 18" bar and chisel chain and fell in love.. it cuts 22"red oak effortlessly and is both light and well balanced. I know an ms261c is better,but its also twice the price.
I couldn't agree with you more about the semi chisel vs the chisel tooth. With just a little dirt in the bark of a tree, and the chisel tooth dulls down FAST. The semi chisel seems to cut for much longer. I also have the pleasure of having 100 acres of black locust, but if it is a standing dead tree, it is almost like cutting concrete.....well the sparks make it seem that way. Chisel tooth, not a good option on dried locust.
You can hand square file a chisel cut chain just as easily as round filing. No special equipment needed. You can also just use a round file and sharpen to 10 degrees for milling.
if you want a really nice project you can go to a local chainsaw shop and ask if they have any blown up ms 290s and change the cylinder. that what i did i picked up a free 290 with a burnt out cylinder and bought an aftermarket ms 390 cylinder and swapped it out you will need to tune the carburetor but other than that it works great!
I remember watching this video when it came out but I cant believe it was 2 years ago. Just coming back to it because I'm looking for a good chainsaw and couldn't remember what Stihl you recommended. Thank you for putting your information on the internet. :)
Chisel chain has to do with the shape of the tooth, not whether its square ground or round ground. That being said I agree square ground is not for everyone, I use chisel round ground professionally and I make up the time I lose cutting with it by being able to sharpen faster.
Husqvarna Rancher 460 with a 24" bar is what I use. I use it with my Alaskan Mill. It has been an excellent saw. I use it extremely hard all day milling lumber and it has never skipped a beat. But when I wear it out I will move up to a 90cc or so Husky saw.
Best Brands to Consider: Husqvarna(Jonsered) Stihl Echo Efco Dolmar (Makita) Tanaka Redmax Solo Coming from a small engine mechanic perspective these saw brands are the best options for all.
A Poulan is barely good enough for Suburban shrub trimmin'! I actually bought a Poulan Pro Wildthang a dozen years ago and it worked ok to fell some small maples on my Mom's property, but nothing comes close to a pro grade Stihl, Husky or Jonsered.
we have a saw like that at my house in upstate new york and it is truly one of the nicest saws ive ever used. we also have a smaller saw which is a size smaller and we asked the dealer to put a 16 inch blade on it and it is a brilliant saw for de-limbing and such.
Cody, you do tighten your chains correctly. I'll put my right hand under the tip of the bar, and lift the front of the saw off the dawgs, then tighten the bar nuts with my left hand. Correct: do not over-tighten the bar nuts.
Just purchased the 251 woodboss with the easy pull start and chain tightning. Nice saw for the seasonal firewood man!!! Lots of power and the quality you would expect from a STIHL.
I have a ms 290 with a 18 inch bar and I am a 6’5” guy also so can I go up also What bar and chain would u recommend for just a fire wood guy And I will be getting wood early this year for season firewood for next year So I will be feeling green for next year in the spring because I am a HEO and an iron worker
the Ms260/261 are EXCELLENT saws. The Ms261 saws are now considered a pro grade saw. I'm a Stihl Mechanic and there's a reason they're popular. They're simple, easy to work on, and of good quality.
I handle tools and equipment for a Fire Dept with 25 stations. I recently started using a Stihl 2-in-1 chain sharpener. It's the greatest thing since sliced bread for sharpening a saw chain, even full chisel. All you need is a good vise to clamp your saw in, or a stump vise. It hits the teeth and rakers as the same time.
Round ground full chisel, RS super? is not square ground, can be done with a round file, but you are right a chisel does need to be sharpened more. Yes Square ground would be a night mare to sharpen unless you were trained.
Awesome saw. Love to add one to the shed someday. I started with a Husqvarna 455 with an 18" bar. It doesn't have the power to take a bigger bar but it's been super dependable, light and easy to run. I'm looking to add a new Husqvarna 395xp for larger jobs.
I am a little confused by the use of chisel chain and round and how they were compared. My understanding there is different grinds like square and round and then there is chisel types (semi, full chisel, square) which defines the the shoulder shape. I know a semi chisel is more forgiving to sharping errors but every semi or full chisel chain I have ever purchase has had a round grind which does not require any special tools. Can you talk a little bit more about the chain types? Did you have to special order the square grind chains?
Cody ...there is one more "should have" for your kit. That would be a fine bristled brass brush (or two) for cleaning the crap off of the teeth or file before sharpening. (.Brass not steel)
Cody, check out a product called Motorkote. you can soak your bar and chain in it over night. it is an excellent friction reducer. great for all kinds of engines also. and anything else you want to reduce friction on.
Tightening chains. I set mine, so when I lift it off the top of the bar I can see the chain on the bottom of the bar move slightly towards the bottom of the bar. When I say “ slightly” I mean slightly. I used to snug it against the bottom of the bar but this is a little tight and will wear down the bar and put undo strain on the sprocket tip. I also like round file chains, because I typically hand file my chains. I only put them on my electric sharpener when they are whipped, after hitting metal wire, dirt, rocks, etc.
lot of guys like big saws, but a middle size with a long bar really is nice when felling all day, especially if you limb a lot, and the terrain is rough. I like longer bars, because Iam lazy and reaching is a hassle. you can walk right down the felled tree and limb 75 percent of it without bending over. If you cut big hardwoods, or mill, you already know the right size, and if you cut firewoodto pay bills...well, my heart goes out to you, especially as it is gettn colder now. best all around for me in montana was a stihl 44 ish with a 36 bar. a bit heavy for brush clearing and small timber days, but did do everything including serious felling no sweat. if the choice was size up or size down, I'd go down, and keep her sharp. full length bar though!
I purchased a Granberg sharpener like yours after your video on it. Its the ticket. Great piece of equipment. I don't think I can ever use a standard file again and just eyeball it. After using the Granberg, the chain cuts like its brand new. Love the chainsaw videos. Thank you.
today I worked with three chain saws: husqvarna 550xp, stihl 260 and 261. stihls were good but t husqvarna was better for me (I liked hand position better, it was lighter, it has more rpm-s so it cutes better and the biggest thing I felt was that it wasnt vibrating as much as stihl)
Hey Mr. Cody, I've heard you more than once tell how to tension a saw chain. People may have variations on getting to the end result but the way described is the CORRECT/PROPER way and the end result is the gold standard to optimum performance for use...I don't understand how or why anyone tries to argue the point or counter with their WRONG opinion. Reminds me of the funny quote, "I'm not saying your wrong or right but If I agreed with you then we'd BOTH be wrong" Keep up the good work !
Hopefully you can clear up a chainsaw question I have. While certainly not at all an expert, I have used various chainsaws thru the years, and understand using them safely and effectively. It is obvious that chainsaws are way faster than handsaws for felling, topping, and bucking a tree. Yet, it still takes time for each of the different cuts. On the other hand, I have seen vids of logging equipment (Tree harvester? Forwarder?) that use hydraulically powered chainsaws that go thru pretty big logs almost instantly. I've also seen these used on new efficient firewood processing equipment for precision sectioning prior to multi-splitting. Are they running that much faster, or are the hydraulics using sheer force to go thru the logs that quickly?
hey wranglerstar I recently purchased a ms 311. it came with a 25" bar and carbide chain but it cost me $20 per chain to have sharpened. what would be a good chain to you that I can sharpen myself and cut smooth and fast. I don't really like the safety chains
+Damian Smith Damn!! $20.00? I work at an ace hardware and we charge $6.00. Never heard of someone charging 20 bucks, you could buy a new chain for the cost of two sharpenings. My advice is to find someone else to sharpen you chains.
It's cause the chain is carbide . I keep hearing you can't sharpen a carbide chain with a regular chain file cause the carbide is harder than the file materials
I looked up the firefighter website you mentioned and all I could find was some pens, wallets and a field notes book cover. Where are the bags/pouches similar to what you have?
I think you're referring to a picco chain when you say "round file" they are certainly more forgiving concerning a maintained edge in dirty material. But I only run picco tooth chains on my climbing saws (also reduces kickback) and run full chisel on all ground saws. You can definitely sharpen full chisel chains with a round file just as easily, I can run over the chain for my 25" 361 in 5 minutes easy with GOOD hand files. Running chainsaws professionally 5 - 6 days a week, I would never run a picco chain on the ground, no need - full chisel cuts much faster, and I'm into some dirty wood sometimes. Urban trees with nails, concrete, rocks, lag bolts etc... Nothing a sharp file can't fix ;)
I have to say that i don't like stihl, i used to use a ms261, and sure mechanically, there was never any problem. But at one piont i tried a Husqvarna 346xpg and it just felt so much better in my hands. So i went and bought the (then) brand new Husqvarna 550 Xpg, and it was soo much better ergonmically, and the weight distrubution is so much better as well, plus that it's lighter than the 261. However, here in sweden we usally don't use such big sawbars. I have an 18" bar for felling, bucking and delimbing bigger trees 50cm+ And an 13" bar for everything below that.
Cody, I have a Stihl AV20....ya its older than me but works great. I moved to Colorado and dealing with sappy pine and pinion. seems i/m sharpening my chain 3 times more than when I was in Washington State cutting Hemlock and Douglas fir. do I need a different type of chain? It has a 14 inch bar, how much bigger can I go? I would like to put an 18 or 20 inch bar on it. It has a new carberator on it for the unleaded gas. Before your time, there use to be leaded gas.
I was wondering have all ways used St IHL chain saw or have tryed other brands cause I have a husky and and St IHL and a jonsered and I love my jonsered I was just wondering if you have
Cody, I think you've somewhat muddied the conversation about round tooth chain as opposed to round file sharpening. For example, I mostly used a square tooth chain that was round filed for general woodlot / firefighting use over the last 40 years. I believe a lot of other wild-land firefighters did this too. It's a proven faster cutter than round tooth chain and of course much easier to field file than chisel bit. I always felt I had the best of both worlds, fast cut and easy to file. Stihl 360 pro/ 30" bar/ Oregon chain, and yes, you have to "make them" sell you that configuration, but it is great for us taller guys to have that extra reach. Same thing went with an 044 and the longer than recommended 48" bar for old school timber bucking, but I guess those days are about gone.
Am I the only one who has issues with my bar nuts coming off periodically? it seems like if they are too tight than the chain will not move as it should and and if they are not tight enough they will vibrate off. I run a MS311 with a 20" bar.
Josh Pinaire The torque of a bar nut should not determine if your chain moves or not. If you can tighten your bar nuts and stop your chain, your saw may have other issues. Your bar may be worn out. If you want to make a short video of how you assemble your bar, chain, and cover, I'm sure we probably could spot the problem.
Todays professional saws do so much more than the older heavy saws. For most purposes I agree with your choice of the 260. For a chain saw mill, one will need a larger saw. The professional Husky saws made in Sweden are very good as well. Although the most important thing is a properly sharpened chain. Yes, you can sharpen chisel chain in the field with a round file.
another chain Tightening method, lift up the top of the chain, if the driver tips are about 1/8th" below the top of the groove and it pulls easy enough, you are good to go.
My experience and research has lead me to the Dolmar 6400. Pound for pound the best saw out there. Very high quality saw, excellent power and tons of upgrades down the road.
wranglerstar Looking at chainsaws. Should I buy a saw with a longer bar just in case their could be a need for it in the next few years? When storms roll through..occasionally they blow down the old Oaks near us. It is very sad but when these oaks come down a saw with a 12" or 14" bar seems little short for the job.
those tool rolls look SKOOKUM! I am in need of replacing a roll and a tool bag that got burned up in a recent fire at our hangar. I am going to check those out! Thanks for sharing those with us Cody!!
Cool video. I'm currently in the market for a Stihl chainsaw. I have identified the 261 C-M and the 362 C-M as potential options. I'm only interested in the professional grade saws. I'm not sure if I should go with the smaller package or plan for future and buy bigger saw. I'll probably just need to run 16" or 18" bar for now.
i have a stihl 038 Magnum II saw , probably a bit overkill for how much i use it or for any job i need, but i only paid 5$ for it so I'm not complaining lol
iv watched your channel for awhile and I've learned a lot an one thing I can't seem to find is a good video on buying a chainsaw for the first time a true break down an comparison between saws an I really would like to buy a stihl saw but not sure of the major differences between the models I'm not a homesteader or lumber jack I own a few acres that needs some clearing an would like to cut some timber for fire wood an fence posts an it would be nice to have a saw that can do my common tasks around my home
Love your videos. Great info you cheer. so Stihl 261is a god beginner/ home fixer saw? For fixing in garden and for wood is that a god one? And you have learn me a few stuff whit your videos. Thanks and make more videos.
Dude if you want a 25" bar run a 361 even if all you're cutting is western softwoods. Hotrod modded 260's still don't like much more than a 20" bar and 3/8's chain let alone 25" with or without bumping up from .325 to 3/8
I use square chisel chain, and then round file it. Not as good as square filed square chisel chain, but cuts better than round chain that's round filed and still acceptable durability.
The correct answer is: you need multiple chain saws. One very light for thinning, one medium for Felling trees, and one big for the real tough jobs. Thats a minimum. And Always bring at least two saws, spare chains and Tools to the work site.I prefer stihl for the smaller saws and Husqvarna for the rest.
Ok one question I like the video but what about the ax sheath that you made. What color did you choose. And I must agree I am 5'11 and I run a 460 stihl with a 28 inch bar and chain full skip I don't like short bars
I just bought a stihl ms260 used for 275$ Canadian... the chain was toast but after I filled it for hours, it was cutting! my first gas chainsaw in my life MS260 and i filled it chain PLUS it cut like a dream!! wow I was being showered in wood chips, it was incredible.
I've made a living with a chainsaw for over 14 years now. Also, I'm a certified arborist and former tree business owner. Both Stihl and Husqvarna, in their pro line, (pro line is the key word here) are awesome products. Do either of them break, or do parts wear out? Sure, even with proper use & maintenance. Nothing is bulletproof or idiotproof! lol. Wranglerstar knows his stuff. A MS 261 is a great saw. But so is a Husqvarna 357xp. Do yourself a favor looking through all these comments, & trust in the people that actually have done the work, and do a lot of it. Most people are not loggers, or even tree removal services. A mid sized saw 50-60 cc saw would probably be all that you'll ever need. But remember, if you can afford it, get a pro grade saw. A Stihl or a Husqvarna. You'll have it for the rest of your life if you take care of it.
Justin Noe re: buying advice. Your views echo what my Ontario Parks Association (OPA) chainsaw safety course instructor said. Thanks, eh. 🇨🇦
Well said 👍
The MS260 or 261 I think is about as close to perfect as you can get for a saw you can do everything with. You cant really go wrong with any pro saw from the top tier saw MFGs from Stihl, Husqvarna/Jonsered/Redmax, Makita/Dolmar, or Echo. I own saws from all those MFG. Not all are pro saws but quite a few of them are. I really like my Makita DCS6421.
Interesting video. Thank you.
that video had nothing to do with the title.
Agreed. Very disappointing. A guy rambling about his saw and miscellaneous tidbits of information that is over my head. I did learn one thing ... he uses Stihl and likes the 260 and 261. That at least was helpful
Literally
Thanks! I skipped the first two minutes and jumped to the comments. You saved me time!
Actually some neat stuff though
Old video...I have no need for a saw, but living in CA thought I should get something, finally found a 261 in stock and picked it up this weekend...now I need to find someone who needs help clearing land.
I purchased an ms261 a couple years ago. Why did I buy a stihl...well to put it bluntly , I was so tired of dealing with the big box stores lack of support after the sale. Ive got 5 saws in total and stuff gets broken or lost on them. Waiting to use a saw for a couple weeks for a special chain bar nut was the last straw for me. I was aware of the husky/stihl fanatics so I decided to check it out at a LOCAL stihl dealerI .Told him what I had and asked for a durable replacement.Told him I wanted vibration isolation and he recommended the ms261 for me ,on sale I think for 550. When I saw it said made in usa,I decided to give it a try. Its been excellent. What happened afterward was truly amazeing. First he organized all of the paperwork for me and put the receipt in a folder along with the other goodies it came with after takeing it out of the sealed box for me. He then fueled it up for me and gave me a 10 minute startup and care session. When he was done ...he even put it in my trunk for me. I immediately went back in and bought files and other goodies for it which they knew exactly what was the right ones for me.I don't know if all stihl dealers are like this...but I have been back a couple times. The saw is well engineered and has been trouble free....but I had to replace a weedwacker so I bought one nrxt visit. The big box stores are my least favorite store now....I go there only because many of the small time dealers have been run out of business trying to compete with the Chinese junk being sold by the big box stores...(and there IS a lot of chinese junk) I still like Chinese bristle brushes tho .....cheap and disposable!
You stihl says made in USA? I just bought a brand-new ms 461 and its made In Germany. It's a pro series saw. My ms 310 in us made though. Wonder what the deal with that is?
Oh ...yep ,made down south. Not necessarily all models are made there .ms261 is the pro entry point.....stronger ,lighter and vibration insulated. There are some very clever design characteristics ive noticed...for instance many of the plastic body panels have metal grommets where the screw mount points are. The NON-clamshell design is another plus
.From the stihl website:.
STIHL chainsaws are German-engineered and built in America.* And we're the only gasoline-powered chainsaw manufacturer that designs and manufactures its own bars and chains - to ensure they meet our exacting standards in design and performance. Standards that have made STIHL the clear choice for professionals and homeowners alike.
*A majority of STIHL powerheads are built in the United States from domestic and foreign parts and components.
Steven Hardy good to know. I was just looking at one Monday at the dealer. They are very nice saws. My dad has one and its fast and light as a feather. Really liked the looks of the new 661cm . Should have seen the look on the wife's face when I said I better get me one of these. Needless to say I left empty handed that day. Never bring the wife to the saw shop.
What was that sound at 4:26? LOL!!!
Hahahahahahaha lmao I heard that too😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Could’ve been his boot or something lol
This is totally out of my experience, but I am fascinated by it! I just love this gentleman and his lovely family, I can only just wish them all the good will in the world and I hope everything goes well for them!!
a quick tip. don't keep the files next to eatch toher, they grind on eatch other as you moove stuff around. and you end up with useless files.
I bought a 260 last fall based on your recommendation. WHAT A SAW! Light weight, wonderful balance and a great all around saw. When it hits the powerband, it screams and the chips fly :) Have you played with any of the muffler mods? It supposed to help it breathe a little better.
Love those roll out tool patches. Have several made of leather, my favorite is the one that came with the knife sharpener that has been in the family for 45 years.
My Dad has two Stihl chainsaws, one big and a smaller one, but always had problems with the starting mechanism (paracord splitting and getting cought up inside the housing). When a tree fell on the bigger one, he got himself a Husqvarna, and since then he swears on it. He still has the small one, which is just the right size for limbing and felling a small Christmas tree for the living room, but for the bigger stuff (not the huge sizes Cody has to deal with by far) he says he never had anything better.
Thanks for your video on the subject Cody!
More chainsaw.
My 2 cents.
Andrew McGibbon
Precisely what I was channeling.
Walken is hilarious.
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Don`t bother watching people ,this has nothing to do with various models of saws.
You've got to love a classic wranglerstar chainsaw video!
I purchased a still 251 cbe last year. I ran it all fall and so far twice this spring. It started on its first or second pull every time and on its first pull the first time out this spring. It cuts like a champ and beats the cap out of my dad's craftsman in weight and power. I was disappointed I could not find a 260 but I am no longer. Thank you for turning me on to Stihl.
I just scored an MS260 two weeks ago; it was used, but probably not for more than an hour and a half. You have to love a great deal on a nearly new saw (1/3 the cost of a new one and the seller even had the original receipt). Now to keep my MS290 as a spare or to trade up? I think the thing will require a bit of TLC to clear out the old fuel and install a new filter.The receipt was from 2003 making it a 12 year old saw with all the paint still on the bar, near showroom condition.
I have an MS660 I use for milling lumber, and I run a chisel cut for milling, but you are right a round tooth design holds an edge longer. But either way use a full skip to sharpen in half the time and it cuts great.
if your going to be bucking or felling any hardwood 14"+ in any sort of quantity I would recommend something in the 60cc range. If your going to burry a 28" bar or bigger in something (also recommend full skip chain) go 72cc+. I personally run both a woods ported Husqvarna 262xp and a Jonsereds 630 with great success.
I like my MS270. It starts and runs great even at -20C. Sorry for the metric.
+Guy Woolford, the spikes are called felling dogs and there is typically an inner dog on most good large saws, but you can add an outer dog as well to have them on both sides of the bar. The dogs on Cody's 260 are larger than would commonly be on a 260, but I'm sure they work well. They are there to help provide a movable but secure pivot point when sawing through a log or tree trunk. I once used my 260 after forgetting to re-install my felling dogs and I stopped immediately and went to re-install them. They save a ton of effort in getting through a large tree. Hope that helps.
Keith Ward yeah, I figured he may not see it but I couldn't reply to him directly due to his settings. Hopefully it helps someone.
What chainsaw is right for me? Good question, video. Let me go do some research.
David Dube That is not the intent here I assure you.
David Dube That is not the intent here I assure you.
you are clearly confrontational. not interested in continuing a conversation.
David Dube You also said that the title was never addressed, which is clearly what JCrook was talking about. How is the fact that he recommended stuff(and explained what type of chain you should use depending on how you use your saw) not addressing the title?
David Dube You also said that the title was never addressed, which is clearly what JCrook was talking about. How is the fact that he recommended stuff(and explained what type of chain you should use depending on how you use your saw) not addressing the title?
Stihl 026 here. Cut Uncountable ricks of hardwood firewood, bought it new 23 years ago and rebuilt the carb once. Still running strong, Great Saw.
Hi Cody, just curious as to who told you that you cannot file full chisel chains without special tools? Over here in England almost all arborists and foresters such as myself run full chisel chains. We file them with standard round files and they cut just fine so I cannot see what you mean.
I was wondering what he means as well I've always run chisel chain I've filed it with round files. I've been running Stihl Rapid Super chain for years.
I'm 16 and from the Netherlands and we use full chisel chains all the time and sharpen them just with the normal file.
I think Cody means square ground chain vs. round ground chain.
charlie palmer Yes, a true full chisel chain is square ground. A ground file cannot keep the square grind on the full chisel. It requires a 6 sided file to sharpen it.
POLOLOUS3 round*
Perfect timing. Im starting to outgrow my ms180 and am looking at upgrading.
Thankyou
Where is the link to the refurbished firehose equipment?
LoverOfPhotography took me all of 10 secconds to find on google.
recycledfirefighter.com/
I also found it, but it seemed like the wrong site as they don't have the items Wranglerstar mentioned.
William Todd recycledfirefighter.com/products/tool-roll
I also own a Stihl MS 260 that has been in storage for several years, and I am getting ready to sell it, as I don't need it anymore. So I came across this video of yours to brush up on how to start and run it again, as it has been a while. Thank you for sharing this! 👍
My two saw combo is the STIHL MS660 with a 28 inch bar and the STIHL 036 with a 20 inch bar. I also have 36 inch bar for larger trees felling and bucking. I run predominantly in hardwood so I sharpen my chain with a less aggressive angle and need a bit more power to run in the hardwood.
wranglerstar If square-filing turns out to be too difficult to do for you, and you don't see yourself getting a square grinder, there is another option; file your square chain with a round file. While it won't perform quite as well as a square-ground chain, it will cut better than a poorly filed one.. and accurate round filing is much easier for most users. In addition, round files are less than half the price of square files.
Thanks for the video!
Ive ran a 441c and ms310 for years,but 2 years ago i bought a ms250 woth an 18" bar and chisel chain and fell in love.. it cuts 22"red oak effortlessly and is both light and well balanced. I know an ms261c is better,but its also twice the price.
I couldn't agree with you more about the semi chisel vs the chisel tooth. With just a little dirt in the bark of a tree, and the chisel tooth dulls down FAST. The semi chisel seems to cut for much longer. I also have the pleasure of having 100 acres of black locust, but if it is a standing dead tree, it is almost like cutting concrete.....well the sparks make it seem that way. Chisel tooth, not a good option on dried locust.
those bags are cool. especially the pouch one for keeping the sharpener plus a spare chain.
You can hand square file a chisel cut chain just as easily as round filing. No special equipment needed. You can also just use a round file and sharpen to 10 degrees for milling.
if you want a really nice project you can go to a local chainsaw shop and ask if they have any blown up ms 290s and change the cylinder. that what i did i picked up a free 290 with a burnt out cylinder and bought an aftermarket ms 390 cylinder and swapped it out you will need to tune the carburetor but other than that it works great!
I remember watching this video when it came out but I cant believe it was 2 years ago. Just coming back to it because I'm looking for a good chainsaw and couldn't remember what Stihl you recommended. Thank you for putting your information on the internet. :)
Chisel chain has to do with the shape of the tooth, not whether its square ground or round ground. That being said I agree square ground is not for everyone, I use chisel round ground professionally and I make up the time I lose cutting with it by being able to sharpen faster.
Husqvarna Rancher 460 with a 24" bar is what I use. I use it with my Alaskan Mill. It has been an excellent saw. I use it extremely hard all day milling lumber and it has never skipped a beat. But when I wear it out I will move up to a 90cc or so Husky saw.
Best Brands to Consider:
Husqvarna(Jonsered)
Stihl
Echo
Efco
Dolmar (Makita)
Tanaka
Redmax
Solo
Coming from a small engine mechanic perspective these saw brands are the best options for all.
Ryobi makes good saws aswell
Upgrading from a POS Poulan to hopefully a MS 261 soon!
A Poulan is barely good enough for Suburban shrub trimmin'! I actually bought a Poulan Pro Wildthang a dozen years ago and it worked ok to fell some small maples on my Mom's property, but nothing comes close to a pro grade Stihl, Husky or Jonsered.
I run a 25'' on my 461...I do own a 280 and the max reccomended bar lenght is 20'' for a reason.
we have a saw like that at my house in upstate new york and it is truly one of the nicest saws ive ever used. we also have a smaller saw which is a size smaller and we asked the dealer to put a 16 inch blade on it and it is a brilliant saw for de-limbing and such.
My Dad started with the 280 Farm Boss. That is a mean saw for size, since he has traded for a MS 026 and has a 017 for trimming.
Cody, you do tighten your chains correctly. I'll put my right hand under the tip of the bar, and lift the front of the saw off the dawgs, then tighten the bar nuts with my left hand. Correct: do not over-tighten the bar nuts.
Just purchased the 251 woodboss with the easy pull start and chain tightning. Nice saw for the seasonal firewood man!!! Lots of power and the quality you would expect from a STIHL.
I have a ms 290 with a 18 inch bar and I am a 6’5” guy also so can I go up also
What bar and chain would u recommend for just a fire wood guy
And I will be getting wood early this year for season firewood for next year
So I will be feeling green for next year in the spring because I am a HEO and an iron worker
the Ms260/261 are EXCELLENT saws. The Ms261 saws are now considered a pro grade saw. I'm a Stihl Mechanic and there's a reason they're popular. They're simple, easy to work on, and of good quality.
Jimmy's Tractors husky are still the most popular saw in the world though ;)
Kestrel Bushcraft sources for your info?
Jimmy's Tractors I also am a Stihl gold certified tech and I like the ms260 it's ok she is a good girl, and like you said she is easy to work with.
Kestrel Bushcraft husky is trash compared to Stihl
Can I run a 25" bar on a MS 311?
I handle tools and equipment for a Fire Dept with 25 stations. I recently started using a Stihl 2-in-1 chain sharpener. It's the greatest thing since sliced bread for sharpening a saw chain, even full chisel. All you need is a good vise to clamp your saw in, or a stump vise. It hits the teeth and rakers as the same time.
Round ground full chisel, RS super? is not square ground, can be done with a round file, but you are right a chisel does need to be sharpened more. Yes Square ground would be a night mare to sharpen unless you were trained.
Awesome saw. Love to add one to the shed someday. I started with a Husqvarna 455 with an 18" bar. It doesn't have the power to take a bigger bar but it's been super dependable, light and easy to run. I'm looking to add a new Husqvarna 395xp for larger jobs.
I am a little confused by the use of chisel chain and round and how they were compared. My understanding there is different grinds like square and round and then there is chisel types (semi, full chisel, square) which defines the the shoulder shape. I know a semi chisel is more forgiving to sharping errors but every semi or full chisel chain I have ever purchase has had a round grind which does not require any special tools. Can you talk a little bit more about the chain types? Did you have to special order the square grind chains?
Cody ...there is one more "should have" for your kit. That would be a fine bristled brass brush (or two) for cleaning the crap off of the teeth or file before sharpening. (.Brass not steel)
Just came back to YT, man have things changed! Glad to see you are still doing good.
If I put a 20inch bar and chain on my ms260 will it be good to take down and log a large tree 🌳 or will it bog down
Cody, check out a product called Motorkote. you can soak your bar and chain in it over night. it is an excellent friction reducer. great for all kinds of engines also. and anything else you want to reduce friction on.
Tightening chains. I set mine, so when I lift it off the top of the bar I can see the chain on the bottom of the bar move slightly towards the bottom of the bar. When I say “ slightly” I mean slightly. I used to snug it against the bottom of the bar but this is a little tight and will wear down the bar and put undo strain on the sprocket tip. I also like round file chains, because I typically hand file my chains. I only put them on my electric sharpener when they are whipped, after hitting metal wire, dirt, rocks, etc.
lot of guys like big saws, but a middle size with a long bar really is nice when felling all day, especially if you limb a lot, and the terrain is rough. I like longer bars, because Iam lazy and reaching is a hassle. you can walk right down the felled tree and limb 75 percent of it without bending over. If you cut big hardwoods, or mill, you already know the right size, and if you cut firewoodto pay bills...well, my heart goes out to you, especially as it is gettn colder now. best all around for me in montana was a stihl 44 ish with a 36 bar. a bit heavy for brush clearing and small timber days, but did do everything including serious felling no sweat. if the choice was size up or size down, I'd go down, and keep her sharp. full length bar though!
25" bar on a 261? no problem, but the oiler might not be up to it unless you modify it.
Cody, By Chisel Chain did you mean the Square File ones?
I purchased a Granberg sharpener like yours after your video on it. Its the ticket. Great piece of equipment. I don't think I can ever use a standard file again and just eyeball it. After using the Granberg, the chain cuts like its brand new. Love the chainsaw videos. Thank you.
I have an ms260 with a 20 inch bar and a 440 with a 32" and I do 7 cords a year... Love the 260. They are great partners
today I worked with three chain saws: husqvarna 550xp, stihl 260 and 261. stihls were good but t husqvarna was better for me (I liked hand position better, it was lighter, it has more rpm-s so it cutes better and the biggest thing I felt was that it wasnt vibrating as much as stihl)
Hey Mr. Cody, I've heard you more than once tell how to tension a saw chain. People may have variations on getting to the end result but the way described is the CORRECT/PROPER way and the end result is the gold standard to optimum performance for use...I don't understand how or why anyone tries to argue the point or counter with their WRONG opinion.
Reminds me of the funny quote, "I'm not saying your wrong or right but If I agreed with you then we'd BOTH be wrong"
Keep up the good work !
Help Cody!, Can't find the link to Recycle Firefighter! Thanks!
Cool pouches. Duluth Trading Company also makes things out of fire hose material. Pants, jackets, wallets, bags, etc.
Very informative I was just the other day wondering about how taught a chain should be. Thank you!
I just need something for light duty home use.....Should I get the Stihl?
Nice one! I also have the MS260. Greetings from Austria
With all due respect man I kinda was expecting to hear about chain saws. Good video just not what I was expecting.
Hopefully you can clear up a chainsaw question I have. While certainly not at all an expert, I have used various chainsaws thru the years, and understand using them safely and effectively. It is obvious that chainsaws are way faster than handsaws for felling, topping, and bucking a tree. Yet, it still takes time for each of the different cuts. On the other hand, I have seen vids of logging equipment (Tree harvester? Forwarder?) that use hydraulically powered chainsaws that go thru pretty big logs almost instantly. I've also seen these used on new efficient firewood processing equipment for precision sectioning prior to multi-splitting. Are they running that much faster, or are the hydraulics using sheer force to go thru the logs that quickly?
hey wranglerstar I recently purchased a ms 311. it came with a 25" bar and carbide chain but it cost me $20 per chain to have sharpened. what would be a good chain to you that I can sharpen myself and cut smooth and fast. I don't really like the safety chains
+Damian Smith Damn!! $20.00? I work at an ace hardware and we charge $6.00. Never heard of someone charging 20 bucks, you could buy a new chain for the cost of two sharpenings. My advice is to find someone else to sharpen you chains.
It's cause the chain is carbide . I keep hearing you can't sharpen a carbide chain with a regular chain file cause the carbide is harder than the file materials
I looked up the firefighter website you mentioned and all I could find was some pens, wallets and a field notes book cover. Where are the bags/pouches similar to what you have?
I Stihl love my old 044 @ 27 years old she's still the best saw I've ever owned!
I think you're referring to a picco chain when you say "round file" they are certainly more forgiving concerning a maintained edge in dirty material. But I only run picco tooth chains on my climbing saws (also reduces kickback) and run full chisel on all ground saws. You can definitely sharpen full chisel chains with a round file just as easily, I can run over the chain for my 25" 361 in 5 minutes easy with GOOD hand files. Running chainsaws professionally 5 - 6 days a week, I would never run a picco chain on the ground, no need - full chisel cuts much faster, and I'm into some dirty wood sometimes. Urban trees with nails, concrete, rocks, lag bolts etc... Nothing a sharp file can't fix ;)
I have to say that i don't like stihl, i used to use a ms261, and sure mechanically, there was never any problem.
But at one piont i tried a Husqvarna 346xpg and it just felt so much better in my hands.
So i went and bought the (then) brand new Husqvarna 550 Xpg, and it was soo much better ergonmically, and the weight distrubution is so much better as well, plus that it's lighter than the 261.
However, here in sweden we usally don't use such big sawbars.
I have an 18" bar for felling, bucking and delimbing bigger trees 50cm+ And an 13" bar for everything below that.
Cody, I have a Stihl AV20....ya its older than me but works great. I moved to Colorado and dealing with sappy pine and pinion. seems i/m sharpening my chain 3 times more than when I was in Washington State cutting Hemlock and Douglas fir. do I need a different type of chain? It has a 14 inch bar, how much bigger can I go? I would like to put an 18 or 20 inch bar on it. It has a new carberator on it for the unleaded gas. Before your time, there use to be leaded gas.
I was wondering have all ways used St IHL chain saw or have tryed other brands cause I have a husky and and St IHL and a jonsered and I love my jonsered I was just wondering if you have
Cody, you hit the bullseye on all the subjects within this video.
Cody, I think you've somewhat muddied the conversation about round tooth chain as opposed to round file sharpening. For example, I mostly used a square tooth chain that was round filed for general woodlot / firefighting use over the last 40 years. I believe a lot of other wild-land firefighters did this too. It's a proven faster cutter than round tooth chain and of course much easier to field file than chisel bit. I always felt I had the best of both worlds, fast cut and easy to file. Stihl 360 pro/ 30" bar/ Oregon chain, and yes, you have to "make them" sell you that configuration, but it is great for us taller guys to have that extra reach. Same thing went with an 044 and the longer than recommended 48" bar for old school timber bucking, but I guess those days are about gone.
Am I the only one who has issues with my bar nuts coming off periodically? it seems like if they are too tight than the chain will not move as it should and and if they are not tight enough they will vibrate off. I run a MS311 with a 20" bar.
Josh Pinaire I seriously misread the first part of this comment hahaha
Sorry for the useless comment, just had a bit of a lowbrow laugh.
zero_sum Yeah I probably could have worded that a bit differently haha. No worries
Josh Pinaire The torque of a bar nut should not determine if your chain moves or not. If you can tighten your bar nuts and stop your chain, your saw may have other issues. Your bar may be worn out. If you want to make a short video of how you assemble your bar, chain, and cover, I'm sure we probably could spot the problem.
Todays professional saws do so much more than the older heavy saws. For most purposes I agree with your choice of the 260. For a chain saw mill, one will need a larger saw. The professional Husky saws made in Sweden are very good as well. Although the most important thing is a properly sharpened chain. Yes, you can sharpen chisel chain in the field with a round file.
What does shorting the bar do? Does it cut better? Is it more efficient
another chain Tightening method, lift up the top of the chain, if the driver tips are about 1/8th" below the top of the groove and it pulls easy enough, you are good to go.
Great video. Thanks, Douglas.
Stihl 251 with either a 16" or 18" bar with chisel chain for dropping a big tree. Husqvarna 425 for small trees and firewood.
excellent looking pouch (recycled firefighter first example), but a top flap would go a long way to keep from losing stuff out the top when rolled up
Can you run the 25in bar on the 260 for cutting treefall or will that damage the saw?
My experience and research has lead me to the Dolmar 6400. Pound for pound the best saw out there. Very high quality saw, excellent power and tons of upgrades down the road.
wranglerstar Looking at chainsaws. Should I buy a saw with a longer bar just in case their could be a need for it in the next few years? When storms roll through..occasionally they blow down the old Oaks near us. It is very sad but when these oaks come down a saw with a 12" or 14" bar seems little short for the job.
Just found this channel. Purchased 6.2 acres in Ohio and making lots of mistakes in this area (mostly wooded). Great videos.
those tool rolls look SKOOKUM! I am in need of replacing a roll and a tool bag that got burned up in a recent fire at our hangar. I am going to check those out! Thanks for sharing those with us Cody!!
Cool video. I'm currently in the market for a Stihl chainsaw. I have identified the 261 C-M and the 362 C-M as potential options. I'm only interested in the professional grade saws. I'm not sure if I should go with the smaller package or plan for future and buy bigger saw. I'll probably just need to run 16" or 18" bar for now.
MizzouChE2006 go 362, it is one saw that can do it all, run a 20in. bar. The weight is not a issue
i have a stihl 038 Magnum II saw , probably a bit overkill for how much i use it or for any job i need, but i only paid 5$ for it so I'm not complaining lol
iv watched your channel for awhile and I've learned a lot an one thing I can't seem to find is a good video on buying a chainsaw for the first time a true break down an comparison between saws an I really would like to buy a stihl saw but not sure of the major differences between the models I'm not a homesteader or lumber jack I own a few acres that needs some clearing an would like to cut some timber for fire wood an fence posts an it would be nice to have a saw that can do my common tasks around my home
Love your videos. Great info you cheer. so Stihl 261is a god beginner/ home fixer saw? For fixing in garden and for wood is that a god one? And you have learn me a few stuff whit your videos. Thanks and make more videos.
260 is my absolute favorite chainsaw. I also have 380 and 660 but i hardly use them, only when im cutting big oak trees.
My favorite saw to run is the Stihl MS440 with a 24 inch bar, best saw I ever had and ran.
Dude if you want a 25" bar run a 361 even if all you're cutting is western softwoods. Hotrod modded 260's still don't like much more than a 20" bar and 3/8's chain let alone 25" with or without bumping up from .325 to 3/8
I use square chisel chain, and then round file it. Not as good as square filed square chisel chain, but cuts better than round chain that's round filed and still acceptable durability.
The correct answer is: you need multiple chain saws. One very light for thinning, one medium for Felling trees, and one big for the real tough jobs. Thats a minimum. And Always bring at least two saws, spare chains and Tools to the work site.I prefer stihl for the smaller saws and Husqvarna for the rest.
I'm in the process of purchasing a stihl ms391 with a 25 inch bar. What type of bar and chain should I purchase?
Darrin Sibert did you ever find the answer to your question?
stihl need one of these.. (pun intended)
Ok one question I like the video but what about the ax sheath that you made. What color did you choose. And I must agree I am 5'11 and I run a 460 stihl with a 28 inch bar and chain full skip I don't like short bars