2:16 - 2:25 Probably one of the best small engine tips I've seen in a long time. A 9 second lesson. Sometimes the little things make a BIG difference. When one of those little buggers goes flying at light speed, to somewhere lost outside of all time /space/and reality, it can really ruin your day.
As a seasonal firewood cutter, the most common things I’ve changed on my saws through the years are coils and the fuel pump diaphragm in the carb. So now I keep a spare coil and a carb kit along with a little roll of fuel hose. Yes I use only non ethanol gas. I think if I used the saw more, the diaphragm wouldn’t have time to dry out. Something to think about though. Great video as always.
Benzene is the real killer of diaphragms (it makes sense to blame the ethanol). I've been using the benzene-free pre mixed fuel cans for winterization and it's a game changer.
I had a stihl brush cutter catch fire on me due to some bad luck and dried out fuel line 😄 luckily I was able to get it smothered before the plastics were too badly damaged to hold the are filter and for the tank to rupture, The (now updated) fuel lines cost almost as much as an entire replacement carb! Luckily I have plenty of quality universal fuel line that will work for my other equipment including the saws, but a complete factory carb is on my list for a couple of my saws on my next trip to my stihl dealer after not dying of sticker shock 👍 (those were special high temp custom formed fuel lines on the carb and another odd high temp silicone flex hose for the tank, I guess that explains the fire... and the update... and the price... lol)
Not using the saw enough or not running it empty till it dies before resting it for month is ur problem.. I never have issues with my carbs… 50 cords np a year
My new tool for the field: My new Timberline sharpener. I use it on both of my Stihls. The carbide tips do a razor-sharp edge. I'm 72, and of all the sharpeners I have used over the years...this one gives me a good edge AND keeps my 30' where it should be...every time. I love it.
Grease cage bearing w needle greaser thru hole in end of crankshaft when u turn bar over, change chains etc. don’t overgrease tho n contaminate clutch pucks
Have you ever done a video on cleaning your saw? Like a detailed video on storage and after heavy use, how you put it away? I am interested. I feel like the manufacturers don't provide the best maintenance info.
The most valuable information you shared is to seek out professionals with actual experience and not just Google knowledge. In today's high tech society everyone is an expert but not everyone has actual experience. Huge difference!!! Great video!... Echo Repair Specialist
Hey don't forget a supply of those c-clips, as they're notorious for flying away! Epoxy a little neodymium magnet in your parts box to hold the nuts & clips. A scrap of emory cloth, or an old nail file, a scrap of clean cloth & a feeler gauge to keep that spark plug in shape.
Great tips (or reminders). Very sensible, inexpensive insurance to keep a life-saving tool going. I might add including the screwdriver(s) needed to adjust your carb. (hi, low & idle), unless this exact size is part of your EDC multi tool.
I live out in the sticks, and have had a blown down tree block the only road in and out of the neighborhood. Mine was the only saw that ran right, and got the road cleared. Maintenance is vital.
@@jacksongraydon2503 I don't keep a chainsaw in the truck all the time, but do keep a pulaski and a Corona hand saw. If I think I might need a saw, I'm carrying a chainsaw. Lightyears faster than any hand tool.
I have a Harbor Freight 40 volt electric. Only a 16" bar, but I am constantly amazed at how much I can get done with it. And I can charge it with solar...
I suggest some kind of magnet to increase the chances of recovering a small metal part that "goes visiting without leave of absence". I find a couple of small neodymium magnets in an empty pill bottle tied to a string will vacuum up anything ferrous if dragged along the ground.
Literally something I would have never thought to have was some of those parts. Now I’m thinking of making kits like this for every thing I have with a motor! Thanks Cody!
I'm not so sure about the grease on the bearing cage. Just wiping it around the edges all gunked up, the centrifugal force is going to throw it all outward right toward the clutch shoes. Friction materials don't mix well with lubricants. Just to throw the idea out there, I'd want to have extra ignition coil modules and maybe even the flywheel with the magnet. The magnet won't stay magnetized forever. Ignition coils will also wear out over time. Most people don't even know how to use a spark plug tester to check for bad coils.
@@chasewebber4316 Probably not over the lifetime of the saw, but if you're continually rebuilding it or you inherited a really old saw, it could be possible. Permanent magnets don't stay magnetized forever. Most likely you will reach the end of life for the saw before that time. However, if you want it to last for generations, the magnet will ultimately need replacement. Show me a single permanent magnet on Earth that stays magnetized forever. There are none.
A question please. I just bought the ms661. What mixing oil i have to use ? I use ALCO mixing oil for all my equipments such chainsaws hedge trimmers etc. What do you have to suggest me ?
My local Stihl repair man gave me a tip I loved. Use alkylate two stroke gas in your chain saw. Reduses fumes, longer shelf life for storage, and no sooth and grime in the engine.
Okay I see you and your Pacific Northwest big production timber awesomeness. What about us mere mortals who are on the right coast cutting the hardwoods over here???? I kid, I kid. Been there done that with bar nuts and fouled plugs. Great video for all to review. Just when you’re in the woods things like you’ve mentioned save a hours of frustration and a trip cut short. Oh and this gear should translate with Husqvarna power saws as well. God bless you all and hope your son is home soon from his wild land fire.
My kid bought one of those Stihl saws with the spring assist pull start. His pull rope broke and neither he or any of his friends could get the thing back together again. It took me about an hour from start to finish, trying a few different ways. That's been a few years ago. If I had to do it again, I would have forgotten what finally made the difference and did the job.
I've been rocking the 462c and it has the encased bar nuts. Never have to worry about losing them again. You might be able to get a 462 case to fit on your 461. Great vid!
@@danielgaunt214 I have learned a lot about carb tuning with the 461, but sometimes it would nice to just “easily reset it” without my tach (I range about from 7000 to about treeline sometimes and live at 8,600). The 261 with an oil filter is quite a capable little saw. Took down a nice beetle kill pine today with it, but finished up the work with my 461 and the 28” bar. The thing just rips. That said - the cut was a bit awkward and the lighter saw with a 20” bar was totally sufficient to bring er down.
@@danielgaunt214 I guess it’s according to what your idea of better is. I don’t think the 462 will be as durable in the long run as the 461 from my experience.
West Coast Saw has recently released their billet clutch cover for the 461, they already have them out for the 462 and I believe if you're patient they're working on captive nuts for both.
Ok, I agree have these extra items on hand. I’m a Midwesterner (Wisconsin) and I can’t recommend a Stihl 362c enough what an amazing saw. I came from a 271 farm boss and the 362 weighs the same all the while having double the power. Spend the extra cash totally worth it.
The 500i is about the same weight as the 362 but with power comparable to a 660. I love my 362 and can run a 25" bar at the cost of some power but the 500i has no issues with it.
Newbie chainsaw homeowner here, hoping to find some advice. I like to go ice fishing in the winter months, would it hurt my chainsaw to cut holes in the ice? Obviously it would if I find rocks or dirt, but if I cut through clean straight ice and snow would i damage the saw, chain or bar? I have a stihl ms270 with a 20 inch bar. It really only gets used for firewood for camping.
I’m not a logger or anything, my chainsaw pretty much stays on standby for minor lawn work or hurricane season. But, when Hurricane Ida dropped three Oak trees on us, a chainsaw was mandatory and having spare parts to keep it running was highly advised when most of the local hardware shops were either flooded or temporarily closed during a week long power outage.
My 261 has captured bar nuts that are fixed to the case, like you were talking about. I thought all professional grade Stihl saws had them, although I could be wrong.
My MS251C has the bar nuts captured on the casing so they don't ever get lost just like you were saying. I have never greased those bearings though because they are so close to that clutch and if that grease slings off on that clutch it's not going to grip and it's going to smoke like crazy until it catches on fire. Had that happen to me with a Honda mower a while back.
Doomsday scenario energy independence? Electric saws and solar, hand saws, and axes. Sure a 462 blows all those out of the water, but realistically how long is your gas going to last? Even if you hoard hundreds of gallons of gas it's still going to go sour.
Good reminder. As others have said the C clip is another spare that costs nothing, they do get lost under strange circumstances. I'd also add a spare chain to the list. ... Sharpen or mend the old one when its convenient not when you need to be cutting.
I only discovered your channel a few days ago and I've been binge watching your content ever since. I'm 33 years old amd I live in Northern NewYork. I'm about as country as anyone can be and I gotta say I love your channel. America needs more family's like yours and I hope you continue posting content. Basically that was my long winded way of saying thank you for giving people like me something decent to watch on youtube.
1: What kind of grease did you use for the needle bearings? 2: Do you have a recommended source for the springs, bearings, rub bumpers, etc.? I bought a cheapie chainsaw used a couple of years ago, and realized it just wouldn't hold up. In fact, after getting started on a tree blown over in my yard, it no longer starts. So ... I bought a Stihl. It's my second ever, and I want to make sure it lasts and runs for as long as it can.
I’ve thought about this a lot lately-where are the failure points on a chainsaw…That little box would be a great Christmas/birthday gift for those who appreciate the importance of their saw and the situation we are heading into. Thank you!!!
That’s a great list I’d definitely add an extra sprocket to the list of Spare parts. As a professional arborist/sawyer I’ve definitely broken my share of saws. With that in mind I never go to a job without at least 2 saws (usually 6-7).
I’d say an extra chain or two wouldn’t hurt. I also subscribe to the idea of a home “junkyard” of spare saws and parts. Back in the day when my dad and I cut firewood, he and our neighbor always carried multiple saws when we went, because we had to go pretty deep in the woods to cut, and as you said, you don’t want to waste a day because of a part or two.
I’m an east coast guy that doesn’t have dual alternators! BUT….. a chainsaw , demo saw and big hammer drill are used on the daily. Good video. Still rocking the ms 460 and 290 chainsaw’s. Mostly ts 420 demo saws. I’m a big proponent of Bosch hammer drills, also German made.
piece of nylon rope to act as a piston block. I even have an extra worm oiler and brake housing. More or less can rebuild all the "drive" related end of the saw.
Cody, to my way of considering things, this is one of your most pertinent posts ever. Thank you. P.S. - I STILL haven't been able to put my hands on that $12 H.F. Hatchet... Just crazy! o.O From the (805)!!!
While you're at it, stick a neodymium magnet to the outside of the case so you can use it to search for dropped metal parts (and hold metal parts so they don't get lost in the first place), and throw a brass wire brush in your toolkit to clean off "unfixable" fouled sparkplugs.
Another hack that I like to use is to use a fully synthetic racing oil instead of the regular little bottles of mix. The better oil protects the engine better, increases RPM's, and smells better. Once I started to use my own custom mixes I never went back to the cheap pre-measured bottles.
@@Northwoods208 I like to use Maxima Formula K2 or Motul 800 at he normal ratios. You can get away with running it a bit leaner because it's fully synthetic.
the clutch cage bearing should be greased every 10 hours or so, and I prefer to pack in a bit more grease than I saw you apply as an extra precaution. Also, I would suggest an extra clutch sprocket and c-clip every other time you replace the chain. And extra chains are a must! Now you are ready for the apocalypse!😅
Cody, The Stihl 462 pro saw has the bar nuts captured. As well as some other series saws. I would also add have a few of those E clips for the clutch housing on hand to. Thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video.
I appreciate these professional home owner videos. Both men and women need to know how to maintain and improve their home that gives them shelter and a place to make memories with loved ones.
As a retired STIHL tech I've always told my customers your 5 "secrets". As far a spark plugs, I carry an extra on but when back in the shop I clean the spark plug, ready for the next time. They can be reused. Just my 40 years experience.
I typically use white lithium and smoosh a little inside, and work it around carefully with the end of my scrench and wipe away if there is too much extra. Probably do it once a month with heavier usage or at least check. I know the saw guys on our wildland crew cut enough where they are doing it more often.
Actually on a Husqvarna, the hole on the end of the drive shaft. Is to use the bar needle greaser to grease that caged bearing. Also there is no way to keep the bar oil from getting on the clutch and brake components. Which the bar oil is theoretically intended to help lube that caged bearing. There is also a LOT of heat generated by the clutch which usually keeps most of the fluids introduced in to that area to minimum operating level
Keep a carburetor for all saws on hand and a air filter go to your local Stihl dealer and you can get a air filter and carburetor pre set to your saw I keep them on my shelf I run a small engine repair shop and never had a problem
Learning how to shorten a saw chain is a good thing to learn how to do. Getting tools to do that can be up to a few hundred bucks but there are a few cheaper ones. And don't forget the replacement links.
I agree with those things. I work with saws daily and have broken/lost all of those except spark plug. 👍 Greasing needle cage bearing. The extra spark plug is good if you have to spin off the clutch as well because the new plug has a new crush washer. A reused crush washer can give you a leak at the spark plug.
Add recoil starter springs to the list. I have Stihl spare spare kits for all the models of my my saws and I have added parts to them i.e. when I go to get parts, I nearly always get two or more and add them to the spare kits, along with spare chains. All fits in the smaller ex-army ammo boxes, which are water resistant. I used to do emergency work and you just can't be messing around trying to find parts.
Watching the world going to Hell right now, unraveling minute by minute, this is great advice to take heed of. Thank you for a reminder, at the very least, Cody.
If your using your saw multiple times a week and putting a lot of hours on it, you need to grease that clutch bearing way more often than once a year. I've greased mine, ran it about 8-10 hours, and checked again and it be bone dry. If you leave it dry to long and that bearing fails without you realizing it, you can mess up that shaft and then your in for some major issues. Better safe than sorry. It only takes 5-10 minutes to grease it once a week and make sure that you dont have any issues. Top handles seem to do better at keeping the bearing greased since most will have an outboard clutch, which allows the bar oil to lubricate the system fairly well. Still best to regularly check it.
Here is a small tidbit for the needle bearing you greased. The same grease gun for bar nose sprockets fits the end of the crankshaft and greases that bearing.
Man, that’s a cool saw. I still have my dad’s old Stihl 045 that I grew up with and a little Husky 455 Rancher. Handles most stuff pretty well. Good advice, by the way.
Just a resident tree guy here but I always carry extra sharp chain, scrench dummy corded. Definitely spark plug and couple bar nuts for my 461. But my travel saw is my 201. Has the nuts retained. Small top handle with plenty of power to run bigger bars and cut big wood and also small enough to climb with.
I have an idea for the bar nut problem. Glue a magnet on your case cover. When you take off the bar nut stick it right on the magnet. you ALWAYS know where the nut is and never lost. Good idea I think
Yes sir, I don’t use my chainsaw much but after the 3rd time out & getting cut short (no pun intended) I bought 6 of each part you mentioned plus several others. Keep it all in the nice plastic carrier, extra oil pump assembly with hose & filter, spare gas & oil caps, spare clutch/brake assembly, etc Nothing worse than driving 40 out, dropping a tree & then driving back lol I also bring an 8 gal air compressor full so I can clean in the field before adding gas & oil
I would have put some heavy duty paracord for the pull starter in the kit. When the cord on my equipment breaks I just put in para cord and it lasts way longer than the original one.
When I bought my first stihl saw the dealer told me that a sprocket should last two chains but you have to wear them out together so when the first one gets dull switch it out and when the second one gets dull sharpen them together.
I may only be 22, but I am an avid chainsaw/powersaw/whatever you call them where you're from collector. I have old and new, many brands, sizes, and styles. My phycology on the subject of having stuff in a post-apocalyptic/post-shutdown world would be to not rely on just one single thing. I keep the maintenance up on all the equipment I own regardless of what it is and I try not to outright abuse said tools. Some certain stuff I have I may very well not have access to certain parts for certain stuff, but I've always got a backup in just as good condition. What I can have extra bits and bobs laying around for I do however and believe in that mindset wholeheartedly as well. I also believe in the old MacGyver method too tho lol. If I were hard up enough for a pull-start handle I have been known to nab a sturdy stick lying about to tie into my pull cord given I have tools enough on hand to get whatever saw I'm using apart to retrieve what's left of the cord and given there's enough of said cord left to make it till I'm able to fix it better 😅
Hey there Clyde… the cage bearing usually can be greased with your bar tip greaser. Put it in that hole on the end of the crank. Maybe STIHL you can’t. Husky’s you can. 👍
The Stihl saws I have worked on don't have this feature, as you say it seems to be a feature of Husky's saws. I suppose as most Stihl saws have inboard clutches it is much easier to access the needle cage bearing.
I don't use my chain saw often, but when I need it, I NEED it. I will put these parts together. Thank you!
2:16 - 2:25
Probably one of the best small engine tips I've seen in a long time. A 9 second lesson. Sometimes the little things make a BIG difference. When one of those little buggers goes flying at light speed, to somewhere lost outside of all time /space/and reality, it can really ruin your day.
> can't believe, he didn't include a spare chain.
As a seasonal firewood cutter, the most common things I’ve changed on my saws through the years are coils and the fuel pump diaphragm in the carb. So now I keep a spare coil and a carb kit along with a little roll of fuel hose. Yes I use only non ethanol gas. I think if I used the saw more, the diaphragm wouldn’t have time to dry out. Something to think about though. Great video as always.
Benzene is the real killer of diaphragms (it makes sense to blame the ethanol). I've been using the benzene-free pre mixed fuel cans for winterization and it's a game changer.
I had a stihl brush cutter catch fire on me due to some bad luck and dried out fuel line 😄 luckily I was able to get it smothered before the plastics were too badly damaged to hold the are filter and for the tank to rupture, The (now updated) fuel lines cost almost as much as an entire replacement carb! Luckily I have plenty of quality universal fuel line that will work for my other equipment including the saws, but a complete factory carb is on my list for a couple of my saws on my next trip to my stihl dealer after not dying of sticker shock 👍 (those were special high temp custom formed fuel lines on the carb and another odd high temp silicone flex hose for the tank, I guess that explains the fire... and the update... and the price... lol)
Not using the saw enough or not running it empty till it dies before resting it for month is ur problem.. I never have issues with my carbs… 50 cords np a year
@@toddallen7862man just run the saw till it dies empty 😂
My new tool for the field: My new Timberline sharpener. I use it on both of my Stihls. The carbide tips do a razor-sharp edge. I'm 72, and of all the sharpeners I have used over the years...this one gives me a good edge AND keeps my 30' where it should be...every time. I love it.
Grease cage bearing w needle greaser thru hole in end of crankshaft when u turn bar over, change chains etc. don’t overgrease tho n contaminate clutch pucks
Having a couple master links is also a great thing to add to your chainsaw repair kit.
Stihl makes side covers with retained nuts. The 261 has them. Not sure whether they fit other models, but a lifesaver.
Have you ever done a video on cleaning your saw? Like a detailed video on storage and after heavy use, how you put it away? I am interested. I feel like the manufacturers don't provide the best maintenance info.
The most valuable information you shared is to seek out professionals with actual experience and not just Google knowledge. In today's high tech society everyone is an expert but not everyone has actual experience. Huge difference!!! Great video!... Echo Repair Specialist
Echo makes excellent equipment much easier on the bank account than sthil
Hey don't forget a supply of those c-clips, as they're notorious for flying away!
Epoxy a little neodymium magnet in your parts box to hold the nuts & clips.
A scrap of emory cloth, or an old nail file, a scrap of clean cloth & a feeler gauge to keep that spark plug in shape.
Engage safety squints🍻🇺🇸
I've lost a lot a time looking for those things!
Place a strong magnet near where you are removing / installing spring clips.
Well played
Great tips (or reminders). Very sensible, inexpensive insurance to keep a life-saving tool going. I might add including the screwdriver(s) needed to adjust your carb. (hi, low & idle), unless this exact size is part of your EDC multi tool.
Cody, this is the content I appreciate.
Thank you.
I live out in the sticks, and have had a blown down tree block the only road in and out of the neighborhood. Mine was the only saw that ran right, and got the road cleared. Maintenance is vital.
If you don't schedule maintenance the machine will do so for you at the worst time.
@@a.americandad3885 Right. Do it on your schedule, not Murphy's.
Keep an axe in your truck, axes don't run out of gas or have as much mechanical fragility.
@@jacksongraydon2503 I don't keep a chainsaw in the truck all the time, but do keep a pulaski and a Corona hand saw. If I think I might need a saw, I'm carrying a chainsaw. Lightyears faster than any hand tool.
I have a Harbor Freight 40 volt electric. Only a 16" bar, but I am constantly amazed at how much I can get done with it. And I can charge it with solar...
I suggest some kind of magnet to increase the chances of recovering a small metal part that "goes visiting without leave of absence". I find a couple of small neodymium magnets in an empty pill bottle tied to a string will vacuum up anything ferrous if dragged along the ground.
This is the old Cody we love
Hey now he's not that old 😂
You love men??
@@jaydanisjaydan5502 not a man till ya had a man
@@Twitchieandsons yeah!
@@jaydanisjaydan5502 you think men can't love each other? Or that all love is sexual?
Literally something I would have never thought to have was some of those parts. Now I’m thinking of making kits like this for every thing I have with a motor! Thanks Cody!
I like this idea especially with how fast you cant get parts anymore
What about gasoline
I'm not so sure about the grease on the bearing cage. Just wiping it around the edges all gunked up, the centrifugal force is going to throw it all outward right toward the clutch shoes. Friction materials don't mix well with lubricants. Just to throw the idea out there, I'd want to have extra ignition coil modules and maybe even the flywheel with the magnet. The magnet won't stay magnetized forever. Ignition coils will also wear out over time. Most people don't even know how to use a spark plug tester to check for bad coils.
Never had to change a flywheel due to loss of magnetism. I work in a Husqvarna and sthil dealership
flywheel mag going bad? Nah that’s bologna.
@@chasewebber4316 Probably not over the lifetime of the saw, but if you're continually rebuilding it or you inherited a really old saw, it could be possible. Permanent magnets don't stay magnetized forever. Most likely you will reach the end of life for the saw before that time. However, if you want it to last for generations, the magnet will ultimately need replacement. Show me a single permanent magnet on Earth that stays magnetized forever. There are none.
Most of those that do check for spark don't do it properly either. Not all spark is created equal.... Echo Repair Specialist
@@juansolo1617 over 45 year old 031AV and the mag is still going strong, not sure why you think your flywheel is a weak link.
A question please.
I just bought the ms661.
What mixing oil i have to use ?
I use ALCO mixing oil for all my equipments such chainsaws hedge trimmers etc.
What do you have to suggest me ?
I don't have one yet ... but ... invest in a couple of crosscut saws too. That'll keep you cutting no matter what.
My local Stihl repair man gave me a tip I loved. Use alkylate two stroke gas in your chain saw. Reduses fumes, longer shelf life for storage, and no sooth and grime in the engine.
Okay I see you and your Pacific Northwest big production timber awesomeness. What about us mere mortals who are on the right coast cutting the hardwoods over here????
I kid, I kid. Been there done that with bar nuts and fouled plugs. Great video for all to review. Just when you’re in the woods things like you’ve mentioned save a hours of frustration and a trip cut short. Oh and this gear should translate with Husqvarna power saws as well.
God bless you all and hope your son is home soon from his wild land fire.
My kid bought one of those Stihl saws with the spring assist pull start. His pull rope broke and neither he or any of his friends could get the thing back together again. It took me about an hour from start to finish, trying a few different ways. That's been a few years ago. If I had to do it again, I would have forgotten what finally made the difference and did the job.
5:43 I love how the kitty appears from behind you
Pull cord, caged bearing, clutch springs x3, rub blocks x2, bar nuts x2, spark plug, gap tool, emery board.
The most prepared man was once the most unprepared man....school teaches you lessons on life but life will teach lessons none forget
I've been rocking the 462c and it has the encased bar nuts. Never have to worry about losing them again. You might be able to get a 462 case to fit on your 461.
Great vid!
I think I read that they aren’t exactly compatible - I love my 461, but have to admit the mtronic on the 261c I just picked up is pretty nice!!
Andy 461 are a great saw, 462 maybe slightly better goes really well, more a case of if you like MTronic saws or not
@@danielgaunt214 I have learned a lot about carb tuning with the 461, but sometimes it would nice to just “easily reset it” without my tach (I range about from 7000 to about treeline sometimes and live at 8,600). The 261 with an oil filter is quite a capable little saw. Took down a nice beetle kill pine today with it, but finished up the work with my 461 and the 28” bar. The thing just rips. That said - the cut was a bit awkward and the lighter saw with a 20” bar was totally sufficient to bring er down.
@@danielgaunt214 I guess it’s according to what your idea of better is. I don’t think the 462 will be as durable in the long run as the 461 from my experience.
West Coast Saw has recently released their billet clutch cover for the 461, they already have them out for the 462 and I believe if you're patient they're working on captive nuts for both.
Get a grease tube for lubing the nose roller. Bring screw driver to and wrench combo tool to tighten chain and loosen/retighten the bar.
Ok, I agree have these extra items on hand.
I’m a Midwesterner (Wisconsin) and I can’t recommend a Stihl 362c enough what an amazing saw.
I came from a 271 farm boss and the 362 weighs the same all the while having double the power.
Spend the extra cash totally worth it.
Hello fella Sconnie! I also have a 362, and live near burlington (SW of Milw) 👋💪
Hey guys, Sheboygan here. I do not own a Stihl - Husqvarna and Echo are in my posession. Different brands, same results! Have a great week.
The 500i is about the same weight as the 362 but with power comparable to a 660. I love my 362 and can run a 25" bar at the cost of some power but the 500i has no issues with it.
361 also awesome! Perfect mix of power to weight
keep same gear on hand. Only extra I carry is a fuel filter.
True , thanks for sharing for others,
Great video. Keep up the good work.
Newbie chainsaw homeowner here, hoping to find some advice. I like to go ice fishing in the winter months, would it hurt my chainsaw to cut holes in the ice? Obviously it would if I find rocks or dirt, but if I cut through clean straight ice and snow would i damage the saw, chain or bar? I have a stihl ms270 with a 20 inch bar. It really only gets used for firewood for camping.
I’m not a logger or anything, my chainsaw pretty much stays on standby for minor lawn work or hurricane season.
But, when Hurricane Ida dropped three Oak trees on us, a chainsaw was mandatory and having spare parts to keep it running was highly advised when most of the local hardware shops were either flooded or temporarily closed during a week long power outage.
I was only here for that gas cap. Shame it dont exist
Soder fuel systems
My 261 has captured bar nuts that are fixed to the case, like you were talking about. I thought all professional grade Stihl saws had them, although I could be wrong.
My MS251C has the bar nuts captured on the casing so they don't ever get lost just like you were saying. I have never greased those bearings though because they are so close to that clutch and if that grease slings off on that clutch it's not going to grip and it's going to smoke like crazy until it catches on fire. Had that happen to me with a Honda mower a while back.
Mamma said never take doomsday advice from someone wearing two watches, even if he does have the prettiest chainsaw you've ever seen.
LOL😅
Sensible, Useful information
Where do you find that gas cap????
Such a great video thanks for making this
When replacing clutch springs, replace all of them at the same time. You don't want uneven springs
Doomsday scenario energy independence? Electric saws and solar, hand saws, and axes. Sure a 462 blows all those out of the water, but realistically how long is your gas going to last? Even if you hoard hundreds of gallons of gas it's still going to go sour.
Good reminder. As others have said the C clip is another spare that costs nothing, they do get lost under strange circumstances. I'd also add a spare chain to the list. ... Sharpen or mend the old one when its convenient not when you need to be cutting.
Love it!
I only discovered your channel a few days ago and I've been binge watching your content ever since. I'm 33 years old amd I live in Northern NewYork. I'm about as country as anyone can be and I gotta say I love your channel. America needs more family's like yours and I hope you continue posting content. Basically that was my long winded way of saying thank you for giving people like me something decent to watch on youtube.
1: What kind of grease did you use for the needle bearings?
2: Do you have a recommended source for the springs, bearings, rub bumpers, etc.?
I bought a cheapie chainsaw used a couple of years ago, and realized it just wouldn't hold up. In fact, after getting started on a tree blown over in my yard, it no longer starts. So ... I bought a Stihl. It's my second ever, and I want to make sure it lasts and runs for as long as it can.
I’ve thought about this a lot lately-where are the failure points on a chainsaw…That little box would be a great Christmas/birthday gift for those who appreciate the importance of their saw and the situation we are heading into. Thank you!!!
That’s a great list I’d definitely add an extra sprocket to the list of Spare parts. As a professional arborist/sawyer I’ve definitely broken my share of saws. With that in mind I never go to a job without at least 2 saws (usually 6-7).
I was going to say the same thing. You can have as many spare parts as you like but they will all be useless if you jam your saw good and proper.
Add the list so those can copy it please. A great review
Where can I get the fuel cap and cap for the Jerry can that you have on your set up
An axe and a file. In end times fuel will be a premium luxury and a chainsaw is a sure fire way to attract undesirable attention.
C clip and rim sprocket is also in my kit.
I’d say an extra chain or two wouldn’t hurt.
I also subscribe to the idea of a home “junkyard” of spare saws and parts. Back in the day when my dad and I cut firewood, he and our neighbor always carried multiple saws when we went, because we had to go pretty deep in the woods to cut, and as you said, you don’t want to waste a day because of a part or two.
I’m an east coast guy that doesn’t have dual alternators! BUT….. a chainsaw , demo saw and big hammer drill are used on the daily. Good video. Still rocking the ms 460 and 290 chainsaw’s. Mostly ts 420 demo saws. I’m a big proponent of Bosch hammer drills, also German made.
favorite saw 441
And perhaps a spare air filter and carby needle
piece of nylon rope to act as a piston block. I even have an extra worm oiler and brake housing. More or less can rebuild all the "drive" related end of the saw.
I’d definitely add fuel lines to the kit. The hoses perish over time, and I keep several here just in case.
Cody, to my way of considering things, this is one of your most pertinent posts ever. Thank you. P.S. - I STILL haven't been able to put my hands on that $12 H.F. Hatchet... Just crazy! o.O From the (805)!!!
If you can't get gas and oil you're dead in the water no matter what you have in your kit. Make sure you always have a good axe and wedge
I have to make a kit for my saw
While you're at it, stick a neodymium magnet to the outside of the case so you can use it to search for dropped metal parts (and hold metal parts so they don't get lost in the first place), and throw a brass wire brush in your toolkit to clean off "unfixable" fouled sparkplugs.
@wranglerstar can you please share a link to that little organizer box I cant find the same one and I didn't see it in your store
Another hack that I like to use is to use a fully synthetic racing oil instead of the regular little bottles of mix. The better oil protects the engine better, increases RPM's, and smells better. Once I started to use my own custom mixes I never went back to the cheap pre-measured bottles.
Schaeffer's is the best 2 stroke I've found, Lucas and AMS are also good. I also mix 45:1 instead of 50:1
@@Northwoods208 I like to use Maxima Formula K2 or Motul 800 at he normal ratios. You can get away with running it a bit leaner because it's fully synthetic.
the clutch cage bearing should be greased every 10 hours or so, and I prefer to pack in a bit more grease than I saw you apply as an extra precaution. Also, I would suggest an extra clutch sprocket and c-clip every other time you replace the chain.
And extra chains are a must! Now you are ready for the apocalypse!😅
I own the same saw- where can one source that Stihl had guard?
I've got a couple piston and rings laying around.. carb kits and such are a must have
Very good advice! A magnet to find that “lost” nut or washer is in my kit.
You should do a video on the still knock offs I just seen an 880 clone with a 42 inch bar for $400 on Amazon
Cody,
The Stihl 462 pro saw has the bar nuts captured. As well as some other series saws. I would also add have a few of those E clips for the clutch housing on hand to. Thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video.
I appreciate these professional home owner videos. Both men and women need to know how to maintain and improve their home that gives them shelter and a place to make memories with loved ones.
As a retired STIHL tech I've always told my customers your 5 "secrets". As far a spark plugs, I carry an extra on but when back in the shop I clean the spark plug, ready for the next time. They can be reused. Just my 40 years experience.
Ive heared john custom saws about something that plugs leak when you take them out? Question from one mechanic to the other.
A extra carb helps with bar and chain
Loving the chainsaw and forest service videos. Back to the good material!
I would keep a carb kit solely for the fact that in unknown times I would consider ethanol fuel easier to acquire than non
3:15 Would you want to go light on the grease (or not at all) since it's in the drive/brake assembly?
I typically use white lithium and smoosh a little inside, and work it around carefully with the end of my scrench and wipe away if there is too much extra. Probably do it once a month with heavier usage or at least check. I know the saw guys on our wildland crew cut enough where they are doing it more often.
Actually on a Husqvarna, the hole on the end of the drive shaft. Is to use the bar needle greaser to grease that caged bearing. Also there is no way to keep the bar oil from getting on the clutch and brake components. Which the bar oil is theoretically intended to help lube that caged bearing. There is also a LOT of heat generated by the clutch which usually keeps most of the fluids introduced in to that area to minimum operating level
Keep a carburetor for all saws on hand and a air filter go to your local Stihl dealer and you can get a air filter and carburetor pre set to your saw I keep them on my shelf I run a small engine repair shop and never had a problem
Let's talk about that fuel cap.
Learning how to shorten a saw chain is a good thing to learn how to do. Getting tools to do that can be up to a few hundred bucks but there are a few cheaper ones. And don't forget the replacement links.
I agree with those things. I work with saws daily and have broken/lost all of those except spark plug. 👍 Greasing needle cage bearing. The extra spark plug is good if you have to spin off the clutch as well because the new plug has a new crush washer. A reused crush washer can give you a leak at the spark plug.
Add recoil starter springs to the list. I have Stihl spare spare kits for all the models of my my saws and I have added parts to them i.e. when I go to get parts, I nearly always get two or more and add them to the spare kits, along with spare chains. All fits in the smaller ex-army ammo boxes, which are water resistant. I used to do emergency work and you just can't be messing around trying to find parts.
Watching the world going to Hell right now, unraveling minute by minute, this is great advice to take heed of. Thank you for a reminder, at the very least, Cody.
Are you referring to Donny Walker?
Good info 👍👍
If your using your saw multiple times a week and putting a lot of hours on it, you need to grease that clutch bearing way more often than once a year. I've greased mine, ran it about 8-10 hours, and checked again and it be bone dry. If you leave it dry to long and that bearing fails without you realizing it, you can mess up that shaft and then your in for some major issues. Better safe than sorry. It only takes 5-10 minutes to grease it once a week and make sure that you dont have any issues. Top handles seem to do better at keeping the bearing greased since most will have an outboard clutch, which allows the bar oil to lubricate the system fairly well. Still best to regularly check it.
Here is a small tidbit for the needle bearing you greased. The same grease gun for bar nose sprockets fits the end of the crankshaft and greases that bearing.
Man, that’s a cool saw. I still have my dad’s old Stihl 045 that I grew up with and a little Husky 455 Rancher. Handles most stuff pretty well. Good advice, by the way.
Just a resident tree guy here but I always carry extra sharp chain, scrench dummy corded. Definitely spark plug and couple bar nuts for my 461. But my travel saw is my 201. Has the nuts retained. Small top handle with plenty of power to run bigger bars and cut big wood and also small enough to climb with.
Great video! And good advice! Thanks Cody! Say I while back you had a fuel nozzle that fit on MSR bottles. What’s the name of those?
Cody you are a blessing to us. Much appreciated that you share so many valuable bits of info!
to of those type engines, spark arrest clogs and saw runs like dog.Just needs cleaned, had do my weed eater last week
I have an idea for the bar nut problem. Glue a magnet on your case cover. When you take off the bar nut stick it right on the magnet. you ALWAYS know where the nut is and never lost. Good idea I think
Yes sir, I don’t use my chainsaw much but after the 3rd time out & getting cut short (no pun intended) I bought 6 of each part you mentioned plus several others. Keep it all in the nice plastic carrier, extra oil pump assembly with hose & filter, spare gas & oil caps, spare clutch/brake assembly, etc
Nothing worse than driving 40 out, dropping a tree & then driving back lol
I also bring an 8 gal air compressor full so I can clean in the field before adding gas & oil
I would have put some heavy duty paracord for the pull starter in the kit. When the cord on my equipment breaks I just put in para cord and it lasts way longer than the original one.
Is it fallers or fellers?
When I bought my first stihl saw the dealer told me that a sprocket should last two chains but you have to wear them out together so when the first one gets dull switch it out and when the second one gets dull sharpen them together.
5:43 best part, the kitty takes a leap onto the shelf ! Thanks for the great video appreciate that advice. And nice cat ! Lol
I may only be 22, but I am an avid chainsaw/powersaw/whatever you call them where you're from collector. I have old and new, many brands, sizes, and styles. My phycology on the subject of having stuff in a post-apocalyptic/post-shutdown world would be to not rely on just one single thing. I keep the maintenance up on all the equipment I own regardless of what it is and I try not to outright abuse said tools. Some certain stuff I have I may very well not have access to certain parts for certain stuff, but I've always got a backup in just as good condition. What I can have extra bits and bobs laying around for I do however and believe in that mindset wholeheartedly as well. I also believe in the old MacGyver method too tho lol. If I were hard up enough for a pull-start handle I have been known to nab a sturdy stick lying about to tie into my pull cord given I have tools enough on hand to get whatever saw I'm using apart to retrieve what's left of the cord and given there's enough of said cord left to make it till I'm able to fix it better 😅
Thank you for your wonderful videos and your prayers.
Heading to my dealer today to make my kit! Great video Cody! God Bless!
Hey there Clyde… the cage bearing usually can be greased with your bar tip greaser. Put it in that hole on the end of the crank. Maybe STIHL you can’t. Husky’s you can. 👍
The Stihl saws I have worked on don't have this feature, as you say it seems to be a feature of Husky's saws. I suppose as most Stihl saws have inboard clutches it is much easier to access the needle cage bearing.