Just watched this excellent video, had to offer advice on soldering. Please use only 60/40 tin/lead alloy rosin core solder. You'll find that "leaded" solder melts and flows easily and quickly at lower temperature, little risk of overheating the condenser, etc., more reliable solder joints. Use rosin paste, as shown, to help in tinning ends of wires. Don't apply solder to soldering iron tip and let it overheat and oxidize then dab it onto the intended solder joint. Use a "bridge" of fresh molten solder to conduct heat quickly from tip to connection, then feed solder into connection. Don't use "unleaded" solder, it takes too much heat and expert soldering technique to make reliable solder joints. I was an aerospace electronic assembly leadman and soldering instructor in the 60's and have tried "unleaded" soldering, yuck!
Just rewound a light coil for my C90, 1986 model, 12v and CDI ignition. Parts are harder to come by. Great thing with these little bikes is their sheer simplicity. Easy to work on by yourself with a bit of patience, chilled beer and some free time :)
I bought one of these off of you from Ebay about 2 weeks ago for my SL70 . I got to watch your UA-cam to insalling the coils . I have not improved the weak spark at all . I just going back watching this vid to make sure I did the install correctly and I did . I then doing some test on the coils after soldering to condensor . Here what I came up on 200 m Ohm's with points closed : Gr wire 3.0 , Bk wire 4.2 , Br wire 2.9 , Gr/R wire 2.4 . Points open : Gr wire 2.9 , Bk wire 3.2 , Br wire 2.0 , Gn/R 1.8 . These readings was at connector . The meter was grounded to flywheel and all three wires solder to Condenser . Are these reading with in specs. . I do realize there maybe small amount of discrepancies between from one meter to another . Thanks Jeff
Your right around the corner! I restore old honda express and similar stuff but clearly not nearly as well! Your work is top notch! Glad to see someone around here likes to mess with these old hondas.
Very nice video, Well done. I might add to put some oil on the O-rings on the stator plate. Keeps the o-rings supple and it'll ease it going back on. Oil's yer friend.
Here are a few people I support - CHP Motorsports in Texas // NorthEast Vintage Cycle in NY // PhatMX in Canada // TBparts.com // TBoltUSA.com // DrATV.com
I deal alot of parts myself, but I support NorthEast Vintage Cycle (NY), CHP Motorsports (TX), DrAtv (Midwest), Trailbuddy (MI), PhatMX (Canada), CMSNL (Europe),
You need to buy some decent tools and throw that electric screwdriver as far as you can, that caused 50% of the issue of not getting screw out by nacking the hex and the toy town screw driver caused the rest of the issue, use a quality Philips driver !!!
Just watched this excellent video, had to offer advice on soldering. Please use only 60/40 tin/lead alloy rosin core solder. You'll find that "leaded" solder melts and flows easily and quickly at lower temperature, little risk of overheating the condenser, etc., more reliable solder joints. Use rosin paste, as shown, to help in tinning ends of wires. Don't apply solder to soldering iron tip and let it overheat and oxidize then dab it onto the intended solder joint. Use a "bridge" of fresh molten solder to conduct heat quickly from tip to connection, then feed solder into connection. Don't use "unleaded" solder, it takes too much heat and expert soldering technique to make reliable solder joints. I was an aerospace electronic assembly leadman and soldering instructor in the 60's and have tried "unleaded" soldering, yuck!
Just rewound a light coil for my C90, 1986 model, 12v and CDI ignition. Parts are harder to come by. Great thing with these little bikes is their sheer simplicity. Easy to work on by yourself with a bit of patience, chilled beer and some free time :)
I bought one of these off of you from Ebay about 2 weeks ago for my SL70 . I got to watch your UA-cam to insalling the coils . I have not improved the weak spark at all . I just going back watching this vid to make sure I did the install correctly and I did . I then doing some test on the coils after soldering to condensor . Here what I came up on 200 m Ohm's with points closed : Gr wire 3.0 , Bk wire 4.2 , Br wire 2.9 , Gr/R wire 2.4 . Points open : Gr wire 2.9 , Bk wire 3.2 , Br wire 2.0 , Gn/R 1.8 . These readings was at connector . The meter was grounded to flywheel and all three wires solder to Condenser . Are these reading with in specs. . I do realize there maybe small amount of discrepancies between from one meter to another . Thanks Jeff
Congratulation for this professionnel vidéo.I Have to change mine on my Z-50 K2 1971 This helped me very much.You are à King.Thanks.
Your right around the corner! I restore old honda express and similar stuff but clearly not nearly as well! Your work is top notch! Glad to see someone around here likes to mess with these old hondas.
I could not have done it without your video ....thanks
Very nice video, Well done. I might add to put some oil on the O-rings on the stator plate. Keeps the o-rings supple and it'll ease it going back on. Oil's yer friend.
Thank you sir! Well done
The screw wasn’t stripped out lol you stripped it. You need to use the correct Japanese Industry Standard bits not Phillips.
Was this rebuild for a Hitachi stator?
Great video! I have a 85 atc 70 and was wondering where the neutral safety switch wire goes
thanks for the video, it helped me a lot
Excellent video, thank you for posting it.
Thank You👍, really help me
Thx, just what i needed
Do you make a c70 kit or are CT70 compatible?
I’m having trouble finding these components for my rebuild any links? Thanks for the vid
great video!! thanks
califony flux is a great product too..
I hope you can help me I need parts like the. Ones you are working on this video can you please help I have a ATC701985 3 wheeler thank you
My contact is on my website - vintagehondaminis.com
How do u get stator plate off motor?
You need a Magneto Flywheel Puller, probably 24 and 27 mm one.
nice work, where do you find the new parts?
Here are a few people I support - CHP Motorsports in Texas // NorthEast Vintage Cycle in NY // PhatMX in Canada // TBparts.com // TBoltUSA.com // DrATV.com
where are you ordering your parts from
I deal alot of parts myself, but I support NorthEast Vintage Cycle (NY), CHP Motorsports (TX), DrAtv (Midwest), Trailbuddy (MI), PhatMX (Canada), CMSNL (Europe),
You need to buy some decent tools and throw that electric screwdriver as far as you can, that caused 50% of the issue of not getting screw out by nacking the hex and the toy town screw driver caused the rest of the issue, use a quality Philips driver !!!
@@99popgun if you ever try Matco or Snap-On, you will kick yourself for using that toy screwdriver.
Japanese Industry Standard bits not Phillips.