The term "goose poop on a pump handle" comes to mind. 😢 But seriously, good addition to the lil digger. I said digger! I believe I'll put mine lower on the blade sozin I can possibly get a blade buddy or make one. Need the top of the blade open for that.
OMG that huts, watching you drill :) When drilling in steel use low speed and big pressure - push it hard. If a drill bit slips it means not enough pressure. Using high speed especially when a drill bit is slipping will get it blunt very quick. Plus, I'd use some oil or WD-40.
Haha, I definitely have seen the speed chart for drilling steel somewhere. If I have more expensive bits to protect I probably would have been a little more interested in getting that set up correctly. Thank you for sharing. Upon recommendation of another commenter, I've ordered some tap magic for next time 🤙
Get another piece of 2" square tube, weld a flush pug in one end, position it so that it sets flush with the blade and drill your holes in it for your pin. That should help keep the mud/crud out of it.
Carbide burrs are far better than those sandpaper tubes. Also use some type of oil when drilling steel. And lastly, brace the drill against a knee or something to save your wrist. Those larger bits tend to grab. That's all my advice. I welded a hitch receiver on my box blade not long after i started welding. It's uglier than yours but it's strong and super useful. Good job getting to done.
Thabks for the tips! I was really thinking a die grinder would have been nice for that project. I've never used one, but they look like they would be super handy. I'm imagining this will be one of those things that will be handier than I thought it would be. Time will tell 😅
I have a 2-5/16” and 2” ball welded on top of my Deere 35G excavator’s blade. Wonderful modification. Didn’t want to keep chiseling packed-in dirt out of a square hole for a reciever. The best thing for tree work? The ability to hitch a dump trailer to the blade on the machine, and carry it with you to the base of a tree being removed. Fill it up and push it back into the woods. Dump. Repeat. I do mostly rural tree removals where the customer has an acre or two of forested land, or wants me to simply dig a burn pit to dispose of the tree.
@@zaccheus just buck everything shorter than the trailer is WIDE, and you can keep loading it laterally, dropping it in, and packing it against the tailgates using the back of the bucket. 😎
Not sure why my comment didn’t post but this is a cool idea !! Good job !! They make caps for hitches and the have them on Amazon to keep dirt out of it .
Oh DANG! The way you snapped that steel like like still has the Gp mind blown. Put a plug in that sucker so it dont get packed full of dirt on you. Im sure for what your doing with it your welds will be just fine.
Haha, I worked hard to make that a smooth break, thanks for noticing 😂 That's a great idea. I think I'll try to make one next time I have some spare tube lying around.
There is also some lubricant called tap magic that will will help with drilling through the steel. While it's actually cutting oil used for tapping/threading it will aid in drilling through the steel, make your drill bits last longer.
11:36 Comparing the welds, the one directly on the hitch tube was worse, im wondering if the tube isnt galvanized? I bet you are gonna use it to move a trailer 😂
@villageearthwright It's held up great. I haven't had any issues with it getting packed with mud or anything. I dont actually use my blade much for dirt though, so that might be why 😅 I have t seen any signs of deformation or anything. I have moved super heavy loads with it, but it's been really handy when I've needed it. Worth doing for sure
@@zaccheus So I ended up actually just cutting a slot in the top of mine and then contouring the front to match the blade, I really liked the flush face idea you have. I had mine just sticking out in the middle of the blade before and it never got packed with dirt to much.
I notched mine threw the top lip of the blade and put the tube flush with the top lip. Plenty of weld without braces. Also had a gap to get penetration of the weld.
Milwaukee 12V - They have nice little die grinders. The 90 deg Milwakee 12V die grinder is nice but expensive for what it is. I do have a bigger straight Makita 18V die grinder - also nice. But air die grinders are super cheap and good in the shop. I don't have much for Milwaukee 12V. The die grinders are nice and I have a job speaker. Otherwise their battery design is dumb. Oh, I got a few 12V soldering irons really cheap on ebay a while back. They actually work well for quick jobs.
I've been torn between building a makita or mikwaukee collection for a long time. Makita seems to cost slightly more and there are fewer tools, but I already have the big angle drill and 4 batteries to go with it. Plus they seem to keep more of their tools in the 18v category rather than downsizing them to 12v
@@zaccheus Seems to me like Milwaukee batteries cost more, and some tools require huge 18V batteries. Makita is good at letting you get cheap batteries on some of their kits. Yeah, I don't like Milwaukee's push to make you get 12V tools. Milwaukee still does not have a 18V nibbler and Makita has had one for years. For the money, I like my Makita 36V top handle chainsaw and I don't have to buy special big batteries for it. That said I do have some Milwaukee 18V since I wanted to try the red framing nailer. I'd likely stay with Makita if I could choose only one.
@boomupengineering Thanks sharing your thoughts on the matter. I'm really not sure which direction I'll end up going in the long run 😅 seems like not a big win or loss either way.
Easier to get good penetration with stick welding so it isn't a bad way to go. But a cheap wire feed welder with flux core wire is nice for such things. Or solid wire if you use shielding gas and do it in the shop. I have a Miller Passport which runs on 110V and 220V. Has a paintgun CO2 bottle in the Pelican style case so you can literally plug it in and weld.
@@zaccheus I don't think there are any welders available now that compare to the Miller Passport. I paid $800 for mine off of Craigslist. Too bad Miller replaced it with a more expensive do-it-all welder that doesn't MIG as nicely as the cheaper Passport. I put 0.023 stainless wire in mine to weld up my chainsaw muffler (Makita 7900) after gutting it. Works well on carbon and stainless steel.
Haha, well I learned my lesson on a project or two later as I did end up with a bit on my arms 😅 not having any formal welding education has put me a little behind in a few areas. PPE is definitely one of them 😬
Why bother fabricating the entire thing you can buy a used receiver for just about any truck application on fb for $50 or less turn it upside down and cut it to length to span the inside to those side gussets on the blade and weld it in place..
Zach it looks like we attended the same welding school! 🤔🫣
Sam
Haha the school of self education has taught me many things and they weren't all good things 😅
The term "goose poop on a pump handle" comes to mind. 😢 But seriously, good addition to the lil digger. I said digger!
I believe I'll put mine lower on the blade sozin I can possibly get a blade buddy or make one. Need the top of the blade open for that.
OMG that huts, watching you drill :) When drilling in steel use low speed and big pressure - push it hard. If a drill bit slips it means not enough pressure. Using high speed especially when a drill bit is slipping will get it blunt very quick. Plus, I'd use some oil or WD-40.
Haha, I definitely have seen the speed chart for drilling steel somewhere. If I have more expensive bits to protect I probably would have been a little more interested in getting that set up correctly. Thank you for sharing. Upon recommendation of another commenter, I've ordered some tap magic for next time 🤙
Get another piece of 2" square tube, weld a flush pug in one end, position it so that it sets flush with the blade and drill your holes in it for your pin. That should help keep the mud/crud out of it.
Ohhh, that sounds like a great idea. I might have to do that next time I find myself with a scrap piece of tubing.
Carbide burrs are far better than those sandpaper tubes. Also use some type of oil when drilling steel. And lastly, brace the drill against a knee or something to save your wrist. Those larger bits tend to grab.
That's all my advice.
I welded a hitch receiver on my box blade not long after i started welding. It's uglier than yours but it's strong and super useful. Good job getting to done.
Thabks for the tips! I was really thinking a die grinder would have been nice for that project. I've never used one, but they look like they would be super handy.
I'm imagining this will be one of those things that will be handier than I thought it would be. Time will tell 😅
I have a 2-5/16” and 2” ball welded on top of my Deere 35G excavator’s blade. Wonderful modification. Didn’t want to keep chiseling packed-in dirt out of a square hole for a reciever.
The best thing for tree work? The ability to hitch a dump trailer to the blade on the machine, and carry it with you to the base of a tree being removed. Fill it up and push it back into the woods. Dump. Repeat.
I do mostly rural tree removals where the customer has an acre or two of forested land, or wants me to simply dig a burn pit to dispose of the tree.
Ohhh that sounds like a great idea, especially for what you're doing! I might have to use that 🤔😅
@@zaccheus just buck everything shorter than the trailer is WIDE, and you can keep loading it laterally, dropping it in, and packing it against the tailgates using the back of the bucket. 😎
Not sure why my comment didn’t post but this is a cool idea !! Good job !! They make caps for hitches and the have them on Amazon to keep dirt out of it .
Thanks man! Sorry you had some trouble. Thanks for perservering 😅 I'll have to check that out!
Great job and good idea, don’t beat yourself up over your welding it will still get the job done. Sorry I missed you at Bunyon.
Thanks man, I appreciate the encouragement 😊
Aw man, I'm sorry I missed you too!
Oh DANG! The way you snapped that steel like like still has the Gp mind blown.
Put a plug in that sucker so it dont get packed full of dirt on you. Im sure for what your doing with it your welds will be just fine.
Haha, I worked hard to make that a smooth break, thanks for noticing 😂
That's a great idea. I think I'll try to make one next time I have some spare tube lying around.
There is also some lubricant called tap magic that will will help with drilling through the steel. While it's actually cutting oil used for tapping/threading it will aid in drilling through the steel, make your drill bits last longer.
I think I might have heard of that from the Abomb79 channel. That's reaching a ways back into my memory, though. Thanks for the tip!
Nice Work!!
Thanks!
Sharpen those bits. Step drill, gradual. Great video. Very informative.
11:36 Comparing the welds, the one directly on the hitch tube was worse, im wondering if the tube isnt galvanized?
I bet you are gonna use it to move a trailer 😂
The tube was definitely coated in something and that may have very well been a part of the problem.
Maybe when I get a trailer someday!
This is just what i am thinking about doing, how is it holding up?
@villageearthwright It's held up great. I haven't had any issues with it getting packed with mud or anything. I dont actually use my blade much for dirt though, so that might be why 😅
I have t seen any signs of deformation or anything. I have moved super heavy loads with it, but it's been really handy when I've needed it. Worth doing for sure
@@zaccheus So I ended up actually just cutting a slot in the top of mine and then contouring the front to match the blade, I really liked the flush face idea you have. I had mine just sticking out in the middle of the blade before and it never got packed with dirt to much.
@villageearthwright nice! I can see how that portable woukd have been easier to install!
hmmmm🤔 'm curious what your plans are.... I have a few ideas for it!
Haha, they're probably the same 😂
Cool man it looks good
Thanks! 😊
I notched mine threw the top lip of the blade and put the tube flush with the top lip. Plenty of weld without braces. Also had a gap to get penetration of the weld.
Yeah, I can see how that would work really well. I hadn't considered that. Thanks for sharing
Milwaukee 12V - They have nice little die grinders. The 90 deg Milwakee 12V die grinder is nice but expensive for what it is. I do have a bigger straight Makita 18V die grinder - also nice. But air die grinders are super cheap and good in the shop. I don't have much for Milwaukee 12V. The die grinders are nice and I have a job speaker. Otherwise their battery design is dumb. Oh, I got a few 12V soldering irons really cheap on ebay a while back. They actually work well for quick jobs.
I've been torn between building a makita or mikwaukee collection for a long time. Makita seems to cost slightly more and there are fewer tools, but I already have the big angle drill and 4 batteries to go with it. Plus they seem to keep more of their tools in the 18v category rather than downsizing them to 12v
@@zaccheus Seems to me like Milwaukee batteries cost more, and some tools require huge 18V batteries. Makita is good at letting you get cheap batteries on some of their kits. Yeah, I don't like Milwaukee's push to make you get 12V tools. Milwaukee still does not have a 18V nibbler and Makita has had one for years. For the money, I like my Makita 36V top handle chainsaw and I don't have to buy special big batteries for it. That said I do have some Milwaukee 18V since I wanted to try the red framing nailer. I'd likely stay with Makita if I could choose only one.
@boomupengineering Thanks sharing your thoughts on the matter. I'm really not sure which direction I'll end up going in the long run 😅 seems like not a big win or loss either way.
Easier to get good penetration with stick welding so it isn't a bad way to go. But a cheap wire feed welder with flux core wire is nice for such things. Or solid wire if you use shielding gas and do it in the shop. I have a Miller Passport which runs on 110V and 220V. Has a paintgun CO2 bottle in the Pelican style case so you can literally plug it in and weld.
That sounds like a sweet little welder. I have a super cheap Harbor freight 110 wire welder. It's really only good for sheet metal though 😬
@@zaccheus I don't think there are any welders available now that compare to the Miller Passport. I paid $800 for mine off of Craigslist. Too bad Miller replaced it with a more expensive do-it-all welder that doesn't MIG as nicely as the cheaper Passport. I put 0.023 stainless wire in mine to weld up my chainsaw muffler (Makita 7900) after gutting it. Works well on carbon and stainless steel.
@boomupengineering mmm maybe I'll have to keep my on the used market. That sounds like an impressive weld!
I'm pretty sure stick welding is a perishable skill. It takes a little practice before I even get close to acceptable for camera work!😂
Hahaa, that's an excellent way to put it. I like that!
A rotating grab for your excavator would be a great addition we use 1 ours its invaluable
I bet! What model do you have and what did it cost?
😮You should be using a grinding stone on demil tool not sanding drums
Haha that makes sense 😅 I'm not dremel expert, and just used what I had laying around. Those drums really didn't work well.
Thank you for posting. I don't know how you can weld with short sleeves! If I did that I would have a radiation burn.....
Haha, well I learned my lesson on a project or two later as I did end up with a bit on my arms 😅 not having any formal welding education has put me a little behind in a few areas. PPE is definitely one of them 😬
Is there anything you can't do
Haha you're too kind 😂
@@zaccheus just saying but thanks for the compliment. Kind is not the first thing I would think of when I am being described LOL
@deadmanswife3625 Haha, maybe that speaks toward your humility then too
@@zaccheus awwww shucks.
Thank you again. Well I'm always learning and I'm very proud of that very slow but still making progress everyday
@deadmanswife3625 Nothing wrong with that! Slow and steady seems to be about the best way to do anything. Slow is smooth and smooth is fast
Its a ball and receiver going into a trailer hitch
Or a drawbar going into a reciever tube. I wouldn't be suprised if I mixed it up while talking 😅
I’ll bet your money making scheme has something to do with snow!!!
Why bother fabricating the entire thing you can buy a used receiver for just about any truck application on fb for $50 or less turn it upside down and cut it to length to span the inside to those side gussets on the blade and weld it in place..
@johnc1256 That's not a bad idea. I bought this reciever tube new for $10 at the a local truck equipment surplus store.