I use Kester 63/37 for nearly everything. It's what I used at my job years ago when I worked for a DOD aerospace contractor. Since it was government work, there were expiration dates set for any solder that contained a flux core. One day I noticed the QA staff going through a bunch of "old" rolls of solder and bagging it for lead waste disposal (which costs the company). So I told 'em I'd take it all home with me if they were cool with it... I haven't bought a roll of solder in 17 years! And it still solders and works a treat.
Today I have searched the internet for information about which solder you can best use. What a coincidence that you just today this tip online publishes. Again a very useful indication. Thank you, and waiting for more tip.
Thank you for making this video and explaining to us newbie’s the artofsoldering this step is key teaching to anyone who want to learn how to do smd repair or fixing here and there on there own! even if have the proper tools not knowing melting temp allow and when to use them can be a call for disaster work components and mess ups tenfold!
You commented this at 'scoopof3d' channel ""Use a toothpick at 140c with your hot air, all the underfill in the nand area will be gone instantly, and no damage to board at all. =)"" I was having this problem for last 1year, thanks a ton for providing this amazing tip
I'm digging the Kester 44. I have a roll that I got at a yard sale that's well over 30 years old and this Kester 44 acts a lot like it. Good stuff man.
Justin, I am a fanatical solderer. Removal of all the remaining solder must be accomplished before continuing to the next step and cleaning is essential. Removal of lead free solder must be done using an iron and tip used solely for that purpose as cross contamination is to be avoided period. Starting with clean surfaces is vital in avoiding failures caused by cross contamination. I’m not attacking you. I am pointing out things that can cause future failures and no one wants that. Surfaces that are.being soldered must be free of any lead free solder and flux residue. RMA flux cored solder that is a pure eutectic, 63/37 tin/lead or 62/36/2 tin/lead/silver are the only solders I use. The latter is for instrumentation work mostly, but still usable for critical circuit work depending on the specification for that operation. RMA flux produces the best appearance, leaves the least residue and produces the best results for any electronics work, but is exclusively used in critical circuits grade work as these must endure vibrations, physical and mechanical stresses, G forces and thermal inversions. Harshest possible environment your equipment can handle and survive and thrive while doing so.I’m not suggesting everyone adhere to this standard, but I do as do those companies whose gear must endure and thrive while in those circumstances described. Not all can, but those that do are assured that the components they solder are going to stand the harshest tests and still hang with a smile. This is the world according to J STD level 3. The ultimate soldering standard that can be had! Stay safe mates!😊👍🏻😷
While I agree with this, and created the inverse ceramic tweezers directly for this because I really do feel like clean surfaces are key. I think it’s also important to understand the correct application specific applications as well as the future of the device and what it’s used for. Unfortunately, there will always be residual original alloy on reworked motherboards because it is molecularly bonded to the substrate surface through the initial soldering process and will always be introduced into the new allow, no matter how clean. Iv known you in the comments long enough to know how much you care. Just as much as myself. So I always welcome and encourage these comments from you. Your one of my favorite subscribers and hope you continue to add these informative posts for the others to see and learn from. Btw, I’m on a world tour bro. Where are you! We should sit some day in person if I ever come through your area. I’m sure it would be a great interview for the channel too if you wanted to share some more of your knowledge! Hope to hear more from you in the future 💪
@@TheArtofRepair, I live in Brownsville, Tennessee. It is in the western third of the state an hour’s drive northeast of Memphis. Bring on the visit, but even if you can’t make it, know that I am an advocate for soldering of the highest quality and reliability. Surface preparation is critical in level 3 J STD 006 as well as it was in DOD STD 2000-1. Those who are fanatical about it as I am aren’t that prevalent. Your example is worthy!
you explained something very important about thenartofsoldering. it make sense that the proper alloy in the end is the right tidy and strong to hold heat while in use and G force movements if the allow final set is low temp it would make sense that a device potentially could fail bye nature of heat and use! vrs if it was use and left with an original allow used close to factory assembled! just commenting on what i understood about your comment
My preferred lead-free solder, Kester K100LD, is eutectic at 227 C with no plastic range. It is much easier to work with than any other lead-free solder I've tried. But I agree with your recommendation to do rework with a lower-melting-point solder, so I use 63-37 SnPb for that (eutectic at 183 C). They mix fine.
Brother first thank you so much for everything u do its a fun watching ur videos with good Knowledge but im having problem accessing ur website to purchases some staff any help Cheers
Other than down a well hole I can't think of a reason not to use 63/37 ra rma. Good old kester 44 is a safe bet. A pound spool of 0.020 for small stuff and 0.032 or 31 for general purpose thru hole. Avoid non name brand and rohs stuff like the plague :) What kind of paste or liquid flux do you favor?
Iv found some decent 63/37 paste in a few different branding flavors that are pretty nice, Mechanix I think has some, starting to try some thats a litttttle lower on the melting point for X work though.
Thats now how it works, you really should check out my microsoldering 101 playlist before doing any actual work and you will then know the answer to your question =) But also if you want to cheat i have a video that says my hot air presets, but tbh you do yourself a disservice not watching my playlist vs just getting the number as it wont help you with your work unless you know how to use it right. Thanks for popping in and leaving a comment! Hope to see you in here again!
Plastic range has to do with 60/40 tin lead solder, which, like lead free, is more worthless than tits on a boar! There is only one solder that I can recommend whole heartedly and without reservations of any kind! That sir is Kester 282 RMA Sn63 or Sn62 Tin/Lead or Tin/Lead/Silver. Both of these are pure eutectic solders. A pure eutectic has no plastic range. It is solid or liquid period. The Sn62 has an advantage of having a lower melting point which makes it perfect for SMDs and any heat sensitive device. It also has the advantage of higher conductivity. There are equivalent formulas from Aim and Alpha Metals that are equally great. Always use the same flux formulation as the solder being used regardless of whether it is fluid, paste or pen. I don’t like paste as it is too messy and prone to be wasted. Pen on SMDs is preferred because of the SMDs small form factor. Offers less waste. Waste costs money and none of us are drowning in that! Cleaning solder, pads, all contacts and leads prior to and after soldering will yield the best results. It is a requirement by my discipline, but not everyone cares. Using gloves on hands and fume extraction are mandatory if you care about your health! Justin is a highly skilled practitioner. Listen to him!
Don't assume. I have no idea what your point was and what solder you used on smaller component. Sorry bud but that's a fail video. Make a point and explain at the end. You left me wondering.
Sebastian, it's literally spelled out at 4:50 and there's a huge banner across the screen, please actually watch the video before you tell me it's not in there. In fact, I spent most of the video teaching you about how to know which solder to use so you could also decide if the one I use is a good match for you. So I gave you not only a please bro answer but also taught you how to think for yourself. Also on a side note, there is a link in the description for exactly what I use, which I also note at the end of the video.
This guy is dumb as hell. You explained it perfectly. There was no way of him accidentally moving the smaller component while adding the bigger component back on the board.
@@ChristopherOrtiz22 5:30 Well, I can see how calling lead-free solder 63-37, even (clearly) by mistake, can be confusing. Felt like the video needed more visual aids, as in show us the actual reel of solder wire up close, point out what's what ON its sticker for longer than 3 seconds. It's by no means a "perfect" explanation on the topic IMHO, but I appreciated the effort nonetheless, especially the second half with the melting point comparison demo. 👍 No insults, receiving constructive criticism positively and trying to do a better job with less judgement and more understanding towards new learners is the way forward for all of us. ✌
and how you paid this man to make the video and uploaded for you to learn a thing or two? 🤔 wow there people in this world that doesn’t know how to ask but rather think the world owns them and have the right to demand!
I use Kester 63/37 for nearly everything. It's what I used at my job years ago when I worked for a DOD aerospace contractor. Since it was government work, there were expiration dates set for any solder that contained a flux core. One day I noticed the QA staff going through a bunch of "old" rolls of solder and bagging it for lead waste disposal (which costs the company). So I told 'em I'd take it all home with me if they were cool with it... I haven't bought a roll of solder in 17 years! And it still solders and works a treat.
For anyone interested the P/N is QQ-S-571F-WRMAP-3.
Kester "285"
Oh my goodness, to be so lucky to get that much free solder! haha. Thanks for sharing this story!
I really love and appreciate your "over-explaining", it is the fun part here, please keep it that way!
Today I have searched the internet for information about which solder you can best use. What a coincidence that you just today this tip online publishes. Again a very useful indication. Thank you, and waiting for more tip.
Thank you for making this video and explaining to us newbie’s the artofsoldering this step is key teaching to anyone who want to learn how to do smd repair or fixing here and there on there own! even if have the proper tools not knowing melting temp allow and when to use them can be a call for disaster work components and mess ups tenfold!
You commented this at 'scoopof3d' channel ""Use a toothpick at 140c with your hot air, all the underfill in the nand area will be gone instantly, and no damage to board at all. =)""
I was having this problem for last 1year, thanks a ton for providing this amazing tip
Right on dude, scoops got a good channel! Appreciate you taking the time to head over and comment here as well =)
Dude you freaking rock
I'm digging the Kester 44.
I have a roll that I got at a yard sale that's well over 30 years old and this Kester 44 acts a lot like it. Good stuff man.
Hi Justin,
I'm trying to replace Screen Flex Cable FPC Connector on Samsung A32 for data recovery.
What is the best solder for that.
Thank you!
63/37 =)
Great video. I just bought some sn63pb37 Kester 44 today.
Justin, I am a fanatical solderer. Removal of all the remaining solder must be accomplished before continuing to the next step and cleaning is essential. Removal of lead free solder must be done using an iron and tip used solely for that purpose as cross contamination is to be avoided period. Starting with clean surfaces is vital in avoiding failures caused by cross contamination. I’m not attacking you. I am pointing out things that can cause future failures and no one wants that. Surfaces that are.being soldered must be free of any lead free solder and flux residue. RMA flux cored solder that is a pure eutectic, 63/37 tin/lead or 62/36/2 tin/lead/silver are the only solders I use. The latter is for instrumentation work mostly, but still usable for critical circuit work depending on the specification for that operation. RMA flux produces the best appearance, leaves the least residue and produces the best results for any electronics work, but is exclusively used in critical circuits grade work as these must endure vibrations, physical and mechanical stresses, G forces and thermal inversions. Harshest possible environment your equipment can handle and survive and thrive while doing so.I’m not suggesting everyone adhere to this standard, but I do as do those companies whose gear must endure and thrive while in those circumstances described. Not all can, but those that do are assured that the components they solder are going to stand the harshest tests and still hang with a smile. This is the world according to J STD level 3. The ultimate soldering standard that can be had! Stay safe mates!😊👍🏻😷
While I agree with this, and created the inverse ceramic tweezers directly for this because I really do feel like clean surfaces are key. I think it’s also important to understand the correct application specific applications as well as the future of the device and what it’s used for.
Unfortunately, there will always be residual original alloy on reworked motherboards because it is molecularly bonded to the substrate surface through the initial soldering process and will always be introduced into the new allow, no matter how clean.
Iv known you in the comments long enough to know how much you care. Just as much as myself. So I always welcome and encourage these comments from you. Your one of my favorite subscribers and hope you continue to add these informative posts for the others to see and learn from.
Btw, I’m on a world tour bro. Where are you! We should sit some day in person if I ever come through your area. I’m sure it would be a great interview for the channel too if you wanted to share some more of your knowledge!
Hope to hear more from you in the future 💪
@@TheArtofRepair, I live in Brownsville, Tennessee. It is in the western third of the state an hour’s drive northeast of Memphis. Bring on the visit, but even if you can’t make it, know that I am an advocate for soldering of the highest quality and reliability. Surface preparation is critical in level 3 J STD 006 as well as it was in DOD STD 2000-1. Those who are fanatical about it as I am aren’t that prevalent. Your example is worthy!
you explained something very important about thenartofsoldering. it make sense that the proper alloy in the end is the right tidy and strong to hold heat while in use and G force movements if the allow final set is low temp it would make sense that a device potentially could fail bye nature of heat and use! vrs if it was use and left with an original allow used close to factory assembled!
just commenting on what i understood about your comment
My preferred lead-free solder, Kester K100LD, is eutectic at 227 C with no plastic range. It is much easier to work with than any other lead-free solder I've tried. But I agree with your recommendation to do rework with a lower-melting-point solder, so I use 63-37 SnPb for that (eutectic at 183 C). They mix fine.
ua-cam.com/video/hcfVRkC3Dp0/v-deo.html
Great video. But what about iron soldering and solder thickness?
Hey Justin what do you think about the MG Chemicals solder???
Good Q coz it's a famous brand.
Great info , Please make a video to how analyses the iphone schematics 🤗🤗
Brother first thank you so much for everything u do its a fun watching ur videos with good Knowledge but im having problem accessing ur website to purchases some staff any help
Cheers
You are a genius!!!
Great channel man
Thank you I learned something.
Great Video a like from me
at what temperature does no lead melt and what temp did you use for the 63/37?
i usually use 28 to 30AWG wire but i'm looking for ribbon cable non stranded any suggestions? i don't want the rainbow cable either
The stuff I have in in my description is the smallest diameter solder that seems to exist .015in I think =)
Other than down a well hole I can't think of a reason not to use 63/37 ra rma. Good old kester 44 is a safe bet. A pound spool of 0.020 for small stuff and 0.032 or 31 for general purpose thru hole. Avoid non name brand and rohs stuff like the plague :) What kind of paste or liquid flux do you favor?
Iv found some decent 63/37 paste in a few different branding flavors that are pretty nice, Mechanix I think has some, starting to try some thats a litttttle lower on the melting point for X work though.
Sorry to ask u but what was the temp to remove that tiny capacitor?
Thats now how it works, you really should check out my microsoldering 101 playlist before doing any actual work and you will then know the answer to your question =)
But also if you want to cheat i have a video that says my hot air presets, but tbh you do yourself a disservice not watching my playlist vs just getting the number as it wont help you with your work unless you know how to use it right.
Thanks for popping in and leaving a comment! Hope to see you in here again!
I have a solderer. I want to find a tester. Would you like it?
Im trying to understand better, are you saying you have a new solder alloy? That you want me to try?
Yes, you can contact me at wang460602845@gmail.com
@@TheArtofRepair YES，my email : wang460602845@gmail.com
How much did that Nikon microscope cost!
Plastic range has to do with 60/40 tin lead solder, which, like lead free, is more worthless than tits on a boar! There is only one solder that I can recommend whole heartedly and without reservations of any kind! That sir is Kester 282 RMA Sn63 or Sn62 Tin/Lead or Tin/Lead/Silver. Both of these are pure eutectic solders. A pure eutectic has no plastic range. It is solid or liquid period. The Sn62 has an advantage of having a lower melting point which makes it perfect for SMDs and any heat sensitive device. It also has the advantage of higher conductivity. There are equivalent formulas from Aim and Alpha Metals that are equally great. Always use the same flux formulation as the solder being used regardless of whether it is fluid, paste or pen. I don’t like paste as it is too messy and prone to be wasted. Pen on SMDs is preferred because of the SMDs small form factor. Offers less waste. Waste costs money and none of us are drowning in that! Cleaning solder, pads, all contacts and leads prior to and after soldering will yield the best results. It is a requirement by my discipline, but not everyone cares. Using gloves on hands and fume extraction are mandatory if you care about your health! Justin is a highly skilled practitioner. Listen to him!
Thanks for all of that.
first ! :D
Don't assume. I have no idea what your point was and what solder you used on smaller component. Sorry bud but that's a fail video. Make a point and explain at the end. You left me wondering.
Sebastian, it's literally spelled out at 4:50 and there's a huge banner across the screen, please actually watch the video before you tell me it's not in there.
In fact, I spent most of the video teaching you about how to know which solder to use so you could also decide if the one I use is a good match for you.
So I gave you not only a please bro answer but also taught you how to think for yourself.
Also on a side note, there is a link in the description for exactly what I use, which I also note at the end of the video.
This guy is dumb as hell. You explained it perfectly. There was no way of him accidentally moving the smaller component while adding the bigger component back on the board.
@@ChristopherOrtiz22 5:30 Well, I can see how calling lead-free solder 63-37, even (clearly) by mistake, can be confusing. Felt like the video needed more visual aids, as in show us the actual reel of solder wire up close, point out what's what ON its sticker for longer than 3 seconds. It's by no means a "perfect" explanation on the topic IMHO, but I appreciated the effort nonetheless, especially the second half with the melting point comparison demo. 👍 No insults, receiving constructive criticism positively and trying to do a better job with less judgement and more understanding towards new learners is the way forward for all of us. ✌
and how you paid this man to make the video and uploaded for you to learn a thing or two? 🤔
wow there people in this world that doesn’t know how to ask but rather think the world owns them and have the right to demand!
Great videos, I will subscribe, and im sure i'll have questions. let me check out the store..