Thanks, Justin! I agree with you for the most part, but man I sure love my preheaters! I work on TV's and tablets more than anything else just for a hobby. I have a LED preheater plate for LED strips that will melt the solder without hot-air.
What is a sandwich board? I thought all PCBs were a sandiched set, I didn't find much on Google but I did find old boards with large resisters and transisters?
I have never used a preheater, and have a question. If you heat up the board to 140c with a preheater, would aluminum capacitors on the board fail and or explode? Some of them are only rated for 105c.
This is such a great question! let me try to help. So first off, we should look at the workside variable of "lowest breakdown temp" as this tells us the temp as which we can saftley work on the board. If the lowest we can work with on a pcb preheater is 105c then we should prob give it some room and work around 90c for preheating as not to evaporate the internal electrolytic caps material which could cause it to expand and be damaged. This gives some room incase our preheater is not calibrated. Another thing here is targeted thermal energy and shielding. If we preheat the board its just to prevent thermal shock and warping in most cases. So getting close enough can help, we dont need to be so close to the wetting temp so im not sure where the 140c came from. Now you can also target the component you wish to remove more carefully by using ceramic shields to prevent hot air from touching other things and with that I dont mean to use Kapton tape on the board, thats not an effective shield. So now we have a situation that the board is protected from too much energy and you are only directing the heat on the item that needs removed. If you need to remove the caps I sugguest just using a desoldering gun so you can remove them quick or a desoldering pump to quickly evacuate the solder and remove the component.
question straight out of left-field DIY's-ville.... what do you think about using a baking/pizza stone heated in the home oven, combined with an infra-red temperature gun, for the purpose of pre-heating ? (asking for a friend ;)
preheater for cpu rework only :)and it you want to swap flexies for top speakers and stuff . dont use it for every day use and obviously for iphone x to separate it that's it :)
I need your help! I used flux when soldering, but the flux vaporized in an instant. When I watched your video on how to desolder and putting it back on, your flux could take the heat much better than mine. Am I using the wrong kind? I used a heat gun at 400 C and the soldering iron at the same temperature - is this too much?
Another great tip from justin....can you please share your microscope setup (barlow lens, c mount and camera setup) so i can have a sharp image like your microscope...
I sell all this on my website as well as detail it out for you. No worries! aorsupply.eu You can also see the video i did with my brother that has ALL the details you asked for as well as full calibration of your new scope! ua-cam.com/video/Fzs9BBu-iFw/v-deo.html
Thank for another great video Justin!! It's great how you are linking them together. Really ready for next weeks video.
Yea! Next week is the easy hooked tweezers video! Will make things so much easier for many!
Thanks, Justin! I agree with you for the most part, but man I sure love my preheaters! I work on TV's and tablets more than anything else just for a hobby. I have a LED preheater plate for LED strips that will melt the solder without hot-air.
Exactly the video I want to watch.
And this is exaxtly the comment I hope to receive! Thanks for stopping by, hope to see you in the comments again next week!
Fantastic video very interesting indeed thanks
What is a sandwich board? I thought all PCBs were a sandiched set, I didn't find much on Google but I did find old boards with large resisters and transisters?
Look at iPhone X and above, it’s two standard 10 layers with an interposer to connect them together, so we call it a sandwhich :)
@@TheArtofRepair Thank you for everything
I have never used a preheater, and have a question. If you heat up the board to 140c with a preheater, would aluminum capacitors on the board fail and or explode? Some of them are only rated for 105c.
This is such a great question! let me try to help. So first off, we should look at the workside variable of "lowest breakdown temp" as this tells us the temp as which we can saftley work on the board. If the lowest we can work with on a pcb preheater is 105c then we should prob give it some room and work around 90c for preheating as not to evaporate the internal electrolytic caps material which could cause it to expand and be damaged. This gives some room incase our preheater is not calibrated. Another thing here is targeted thermal energy and shielding. If we preheat the board its just to prevent thermal shock and warping in most cases. So getting close enough can help, we dont need to be so close to the wetting temp so im not sure where the 140c came from. Now you can also target the component you wish to remove more carefully by using ceramic shields to prevent hot air from touching other things and with that I dont mean to use Kapton tape on the board, thats not an effective shield. So now we have a situation that the board is protected from too much energy and you are only directing the heat on the item that needs removed.
If you need to remove the caps I sugguest just using a desoldering gun so you can remove them quick or a desoldering pump to quickly evacuate the solder and remove the component.
question straight out of left-field DIY's-ville....
what do you think about using a baking/pizza stone heated in the home oven, combined with an infra-red temperature gun, for the purpose of pre-heating ?
(asking for a friend ;)
you use both pre heater and hot air at the same time why?
preheater for cpu rework only :)and it you want to swap flexies for top speakers and stuff . dont use it for every day use and obviously for iphone x to separate it that's it :)
You know the drill bro. Application specific! 💪
I need your help! I used flux when soldering, but the flux vaporized in an instant. When I watched your video on how to desolder and putting it back on, your flux could take the heat much better than mine. Am I using the wrong kind?
I used a heat gun at 400 C and the soldering iron at the same temperature - is this too much?
Another great tip from justin....can you please share your microscope setup (barlow lens, c mount and camera setup) so i can have a sharp image like your microscope...
I sell all this on my website as well as detail it out for you. No worries! aorsupply.eu
You can also see the video i did with my brother that has ALL the details you asked for as well as full calibration of your new scope!
ua-cam.com/video/Fzs9BBu-iFw/v-deo.html
@@TheArtofRepair thanks 👌👍✌
Good video as always, but volume is too low.
Did you clean off your camera today? Looks extra good haha
Nope! I actually moved back to 1080p over 4K was having some issues with the 4k :(
👍🤙
💪💪
🤷
Thanks for the class Justin, every days a school day @theartof.repair 👌💯
Always fun in the chat bro! Thanks for coming! See you next week!