Thank you Marvin, I hope the finished product turns out the way I’m envisioning it. I’m sure I’ll be spending Easter with my family. Happy Easter to you as well.
Looking good as always can't wait to see the finished piece. I just recently bought some Golden Iridescent Pearl, good transparency and adds those blues and purples in the white you see in a lot of fish. Not a critique by any means just like to share with everyone when I find something good. Thanks for sharing your work.
Looking good Danny! Your base looks like it has a lot of depth. I've got several of Rick Krane's videos, and he uses different techniques in all of them. This just goes to show there are a lot of different ways to achieve the same results.
It’s getting there. I still have several layers to go yet. I like some of his techniques but they’re all designed for skin mounts or reproductions and don’t work as well on wood. And some of them are hard to do unless you’re using the polytranspar lacquer based paints. I’d like to try some of the acrylic based polytranspar but I’ve read it’s not quite the same as the lacquer based. I’ve been using pigment powders since before I heard of him. I started using them after watching the guys from Mutuska Taxidermy. I got to talk with them at length at the trade show at the last World championship. I’ve incorporated a few of their tips and tricks as well. But I’d say most of my process is what I’ve learned on my own by trial and error
@@Danny_Harris-Arts Because I bought Krane's video before I started painting my first carving, I used the paints Rick recommended, which were all acrylic, and most were transparent. I think these paints are made primarily for taxidermists. This was perfect for me because I lacked any previous knowledge of how to mix paint, or create a particular look. With your experience as an artist, you don't need help like I did. I didn't use all of Rick's techniques because his example differed from my reference. I also had to start over twice before I got the look right. I thought the acrylic paints worked well on my wood carving, but I don't have an expert eye. I did like using the powders a great deal. I used them more than the paint. You should remember that you know a lot about colors and how to create the look you want. Powders, paint, and watercolor pencils are all just part of your ever-expanding toolbox
@@danreed2189 I’m sure I could make them work. The problem I have with the paint I use is it’s not transparent so I do have a few Createx colors that are transparent that I use. I’ve also started using a transparent clear acrylic medium that I mix with opaque colors and it makes them semi transparent which helps. I’m going to buy a select few of the acrylic transpar colors to see how well they work with the current pigments I use now.
@@Danny_Harris-Arts That is what I meant in my last post. You have the skill and knowledge to create the result you are looking for. I don't, so I benefit from the taxidermy paints much more than you would. Why buy Polytranspar, Woods and Water, or Lifetone when you can make the color you want with what you already have? On another note, please don't put my name in for the drawing because I have all the tools you are giving away. Thanks!
One more thing Danny. In your first post, you mentioned that you thought Rick Krane's techniques were mainly for skin mounts and reproductions and wouldn't transfer well to carved fish. I disagree, because once the primer is on whatever you are painting, that is base that you are painting over. I don't know anything about skin mounts but, I know Rick puts primer on the reproductions he uses. I don't think it matters what is underneath the primer, but feel free to enlighten me if you think I am wrong about that.
I’ve never carved fish before, just animals and birds. Always wanted to but never got around to it before I had a stroke that slowed me down a lot. Trying to start back and want to try a redfish out of a piece of leopard wood. It’s kinda natural looking scale patterns. Have you ever carved saltwater species like redfish before? Found this video on UA-cam and love the trout you’ve done here. Going to follow you now that I’ve seen this #5 painting. I’ll see if I can find the other 4 and follow it from start to finish. Keep them coming Danny! Love the trout
Thanks Jerry! I’ve only been carving a little over 3 years and so far all I have done is fresh water fish that’s pretty much native to my area. But I do plan on doing salt water fish at some point I’m sure. I appreciate you watching. You can find the series in the playlist tab. It’s under Brown Trout 2024 or you can click this link. I still have one more segment to go on this one and hopefully it’ll be posting next weekend. ua-cam.com/play/PLqwchUaQYvGt8htM-VTyhLD9PFlOBkwXh.html&si=g5XKaMFIhDqJuQw9 I also have a series on a rainbow trout that’s in the playlist also. In fact all the projects I’ve carved can be found in the playlist.
I’ve had a little exposure to trout fishing out in Wyoming and Colorado on vacation and caught some rainbow, cutthroat, brookies and a few brown trout. They are absolutely beautiful fish! Would really like to catch some of those again!!😉 Maybe one day. Till then I’ll have to watch you bring them to life!! Appreciate your work buddy!! Thanks Danny
Hi Danny, Working on my next fish I did a Trout as well, Rainbow, Have you tried any other wood types? Have you completed the drawing yet?? Thanks for the great videos, Nice to see that you have good equipment to make these - it is always clear and easy to follow. Hope to see you in Iowa city for the contest in AUG 2024
Thank you I’m glad you’re enjoying them. As far as wood types Other than pine that I did my first fish with and balsa for my second I’ve used Tueplo for everything else. I’m working part 6 (and final segment)of this brown now. I was hoping to finish today but I’m going to need about 20 more hours. I’ll do the drawing before I do the final edit of this one and announce it at the end of the video. Your entered so good luck, and thanks for watching.
@@bambam-dl8pqI don’t think it matters much. It may be different if it was going to be a part of the finish that shows but since it’s just meant to soak into the fibers and be covered with paint I think any brand will do. I can’t remember off the top of my head what brand I’m using. (Not at home at the moment) I know some people use a sanding sealer but I started out using this lacquer/thinner this way and it’s working. I know people who carve duck decoys that are actually tested in water as part of competition are a little more particular about the sealer brand and process they use before painting. But I know none of my fish will be dunked in water to see if they float upright 😂😂
Right now I use a Iwata Eclipse with a .35 needle/tip. it’s a great airbrush and I can get fine pencil size lines as well as wider coverage. I’m about to buy a Badger Krome set up with a .20 needle for finer detail work. With the .20 needle/tip set up you can get hairline detail but it’s not as suited for wide coverage. I also like that it has a needle stop adjustment that you can adjust the paint flow stop from barely flowing to full volume. Both are middle road cost wise but are great quality set ups. I think I paid $130 for the Iwata and I think the Krome is around the same.
😂🤣 I’ve got two painting tee shirts that I wear. I need to get a couple new ones. I’ll auction off squares of the old ones when I do😂🤣😂 they’ll like be converted to gun cleaning patches 😜
I use a liquid masking fluid applied with a micro applicator. It’s basically a thin liquid latex and it easily peels off after I’m done painting. Sometimes I peel it off halfway through the painting process and reapply it so the paint doesn’t build up too thick. I learned the hard way once when the paint was too thick it pulled away from the head next to the eye socket. Before when I used glass eyes id just smear a little butter on the eyes and it kept the paint from sticking and if any did stick I would just lightly scrape it off with an X-Acto knife, but I make my own eyes now and they have a thick epoxy cornea and would easily scratch with an X-Acto knife so I had a bottle of the liquid masking fluid laying around and it works great. You can find it in any hobby store in the paint supply section or you can find it online. Water color painters use it to mask off areas they don’t they don’t want paint on.
Beautiful drawing
Thanks but It’s a wood carving😜
this little piece of wood will be priceless until its completly finished.
happy easter danny
Thank you Marvin, I hope the finished product turns out the way I’m envisioning it. I’m sure I’ll be spending Easter with my family. Happy Easter to you as well.
Looking good Danny. Looking forward to the final video.
Hope to finish the painting this weekend and hopefully have it edited and posted by this time next week
Looking good as always can't wait to see the finished piece. I just recently bought some Golden Iridescent Pearl, good transparency and adds those blues and purples in the white you see in a lot of fish. Not a critique by any means just like to share with everyone when I find something good. Thanks for sharing your work.
Thanks Ron, hope to have it finished by this weekend and have part 6 posted by this time next week. What brand is that paint ?
Looking good Danny! Your base looks like it has a lot of depth. I've got several of Rick Krane's videos, and he uses different techniques in all of them. This just goes to show there are a lot of different ways to achieve the same results.
It’s getting there. I still have several layers to go yet. I like some of his techniques but they’re all designed for skin mounts or reproductions and don’t work as well on wood. And some of them are hard to do unless you’re using the polytranspar lacquer based paints. I’d like to try some of the acrylic based polytranspar but I’ve read it’s not quite the same as the lacquer based.
I’ve been using pigment powders since before I heard of him. I started using them after watching the guys from Mutuska Taxidermy.
I got to talk with them at length at the trade show at the last World championship. I’ve incorporated a few of their tips and tricks as well. But I’d say most of my process is what I’ve learned on my own by trial and error
@@Danny_Harris-Arts Because I bought Krane's video before I started painting my first carving, I used the paints Rick recommended, which were all acrylic, and most were transparent. I think these paints are made primarily for taxidermists. This was perfect for me because I lacked any previous knowledge of how to mix paint, or create a particular look. With your experience as an artist, you don't need help like I did. I didn't use all of Rick's techniques because his example differed from my reference. I also had to start over twice before I got the look right. I thought the acrylic paints worked well on my wood carving, but I don't have an expert eye. I did like using the powders a great deal. I used them more than the paint.
You should remember that you know a lot about colors and how to create the look you want. Powders, paint, and watercolor pencils are all just part of your ever-expanding toolbox
@@danreed2189 I’m sure I could make them work. The problem I have with the paint I use is it’s not transparent so I do have a few Createx colors that are transparent that I use. I’ve also started using a transparent clear acrylic medium that I mix with opaque colors and it makes them semi transparent which helps. I’m going to buy a select few of the acrylic transpar colors to see how well they work with the current pigments I use now.
@@Danny_Harris-Arts That is what I meant in my last post. You have the skill and knowledge to create the result you are looking for. I don't, so I benefit from the taxidermy paints much more than you would. Why buy Polytranspar, Woods and Water, or Lifetone when you can make the color you want with what you already have? On another note, please don't put my name in for the drawing because I have all the tools you are giving away. Thanks!
One more thing Danny. In your first post, you mentioned that you thought Rick Krane's techniques were mainly for skin mounts and reproductions and wouldn't transfer well to carved fish. I disagree, because once the primer is on whatever you are painting, that is base that you are painting over. I don't know anything about skin mounts but, I know Rick puts primer on the reproductions he uses. I don't think it matters what is underneath the primer, but feel free to enlighten me if you think I am wrong about that.
I’ve never carved fish before, just animals and birds. Always wanted to but never got around to it before I had a stroke that slowed me down a lot. Trying to start back and want to try a redfish out of a piece of leopard wood. It’s kinda natural looking scale patterns. Have you ever carved saltwater species like redfish before? Found this video on UA-cam and love the trout you’ve done here. Going to follow you now that I’ve seen this #5 painting. I’ll see if I can find the other 4 and follow it from start to finish. Keep them coming Danny!
Love the trout
Thanks Jerry!
I’ve only been carving a little over 3 years and so far all I have done is fresh water fish that’s pretty much native to my area. But I do plan on doing salt water fish at some point I’m sure. I appreciate you watching.
You can find the series in the playlist tab. It’s under Brown Trout 2024 or you can click this link. I still have one more segment to go on this one and hopefully it’ll be posting next weekend.
ua-cam.com/play/PLqwchUaQYvGt8htM-VTyhLD9PFlOBkwXh.html&si=g5XKaMFIhDqJuQw9
I also have a series on a rainbow trout that’s in the playlist also. In fact all the projects I’ve carved can be found in the playlist.
I’ve had a little exposure to trout fishing out in Wyoming and Colorado on vacation and caught some rainbow, cutthroat, brookies and a few brown trout. They are absolutely beautiful fish! Would really like to catch some of those again!!😉 Maybe one day. Till then I’ll have to watch you bring them to life!! Appreciate your work buddy!!
Thanks Danny
@@jerryhawsey4552 thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching.
Hi Danny,
Working on my next fish I did a Trout as well, Rainbow,
Have you tried any other wood types?
Have you completed the drawing yet??
Thanks for the great videos, Nice to see that you have good equipment to make these - it is always clear and easy to follow.
Hope to see you in Iowa city for the contest in AUG 2024
Thank you I’m glad you’re enjoying them.
As far as wood types Other than pine that I did my first fish with and balsa for my second I’ve used Tueplo for everything else. I’m working part 6 (and final segment)of this brown now. I was hoping to finish today but I’m going to need about 20 more hours. I’ll do the drawing before I do the final edit of this one and announce it at the end of the video.
Your entered so good luck, and thanks for watching.
Hi Danny is the lacquer mix for sealing the wood?
Yes, I mix it 50/50 lacquer/thinner. That makes it soak into the wood deeper and it dries faster without any lacquer buildup on the surface.
Any particular brand that seems to work best
@@bambam-dl8pqI don’t think it matters much. It may be different if it was going to be a part of the finish that shows but since it’s just meant to soak into the fibers and be covered with paint I think any brand will do. I can’t remember off the top of my head what brand I’m using. (Not at home at the moment)
I know some people use a sanding sealer but I started out using this lacquer/thinner this way and it’s working.
I know people who carve duck decoys that are actually tested in water as part of competition are a little more particular about the sealer brand and process they use before painting. But I know none of my fish will be dunked in water to see if they float upright 😂😂
Danny, nice work and inspiring. You may have mentioned it before but what air brush do you use?
Right now I use a Iwata Eclipse with a .35 needle/tip. it’s a great airbrush and I can get fine pencil size lines as well as wider coverage.
I’m about to buy a Badger Krome set up with a .20 needle for finer detail work. With the .20 needle/tip set up you can get hairline detail but it’s not as suited for wide coverage.
I also like that it has a needle stop adjustment that you can adjust the paint flow stop from barely flowing to full volume.
Both are middle road cost wise but are great quality set ups.
I think I paid $130 for the Iwata and I think the Krome is around the same.
Thank you Sir for taking time to reply.
I want aa framed square of your tee shirt.
😂🤣 I’ve got two painting tee shirts that I wear. I need to get a couple new ones. I’ll auction off squares of the old ones when I do😂🤣😂 they’ll like be converted to gun cleaning patches 😜
Hi Danny
What do you use to cover the eyes from the paint you don’t want to cover them?
Thanks for the information you provided
I use a liquid masking fluid applied with a micro applicator. It’s basically a thin liquid latex and it easily peels off after I’m done painting. Sometimes I peel it off halfway through the painting process and reapply it so the paint doesn’t build up too thick. I learned the hard way once when the paint was too thick it pulled away from the head next to the eye socket.
Before when I used glass eyes id just smear a little butter on the eyes and it kept the paint from sticking and if any did stick I would just lightly scrape it off with an X-Acto knife, but I make my own eyes now and they have a thick epoxy cornea and would easily scratch with an X-Acto knife so I had a bottle of the liquid masking fluid laying around and it works great.
You can find it in any hobby store in the paint supply section or you can find it online. Water color painters use it to mask off areas they don’t they don’t want paint on.