Auto bypass, set up
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- Опубліковано 11 лип 2024
- Many have asked how to set it up for the correct balance, we show you on our Wednesday course. Another advantage is it because the water is going thru the heat exchanger it stay cooler for longer in condensing mode - cheaper to run and also big double K's at the front of the house get hotter sooner.
The boiler is quieter will last longer there are NO bad effect only good. It's better to fit than not.
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Great video George. Concise and informative with simple step by step demonstration on how to set up an ABV in a qualitative manner.......no need to interpret complicated graphs and set up flow meters across the system for god's sake!!!
Keep up the good informative stuff. Incidentally, I came on one of your fault finding courses about 5/6 years ago. Bloody brilliant and gave me the confidence to work on boilers and alike ever since. Regards.
Thanks for your kind words, take care, george
Great video, very helpful, thank you.
My pleasure take care, george staszak
Great video. My system has a bypass around the central heating zone valve, without any kind of valve, this can't be very efficient? I assume this means a considerable portion of the flow never makes it into the heating circuit and is instead returned to the boiler.
Hi Russell, thanks for the question and kind words, all systems must have an AUTO by-pass as video, there is no other way of keeping the boiler flow at a constant rate as TRVs change the pressure, hope that helps, george staszak
Hi, great video. Ive just purchased a bypass valve and it can be set upto 1 bar, the boiler pressure is 1.3bar so doesn't this mean that the water will prefer to flow through the bypass rather than the heating circuit because the pressure is lower?
Hi Micky, thanks for asking, you are a bit mixed up, the auto by-pass is FLOW (circulation) not pressure. As per the video turn OFF the A B-P fill to 1.0 bar cold pressure with F2 silencer.
Turn OFF all the TRVs and AB-P.
Heating stats to MAX the boiler will make noise
turn ON the AB-P slowly until quiet the cap on TRVs ON, job done.
If the pressure goes above 1.5 bar that's expansion problem please see my video
Hope that helps, take care, George Staszak
@@mrcombiBedford Hi George, When you say turn off the AB-P, the one on my system has settings from 0.1 bar to 0.5 bar. Can you clarify which is closing/ turning off and which setting is opening? I'd rather restrict the flow through the ABP so more likelihood of flow going to the heating system and all rads in large house. Some radiators stay cold when the system firing up from cold and hot water coil on too. Rebalancing doesn't cure, heat starts to come through to the cold radiators after a period of time when HW tank up to temperature and zone valve closes or enough other rads get up to temp and TRV's close.
@@ms-media Hi MS, thanks for asking, make sure there is enough inhibitor, start by turning B Pass + all TRVs to OFF lock shields to ON max. control valves to max ON: Pressure 1 Bar. Turn on CH to MAX (Room stat + boiler stat) As soon as the boiler makes noise B Pass 1/4 turn wait till sound goes, repeat as ness. until no sound fit cap and turn ON control valves. If pressure goes above 1.2bar see my video on that and balancing systems. I will make a new video By Pass 2022. take care, George Staszak👍😇
Does an s plan system need a bypass if it doesn’t have a pump over run and more than one radiator doesn’t have a trv ?
Hi Sean, yes ALL systems MUST have an AUTO by-pass as shown under the boiler, removing a plastic top is NOT an auto by-pass, its a rad on full costing money.
It's there to turbo charge the flow across the H Exch. at a constant flow, how a hall / bath rad can do this is beyond belief.
Hope that explains all, take care, George Staszak
Thanks George. Useful video. Bought a house with a Powerstream Ascari electric boiler which has been driving me crazy with a pump noise going off very 6 hours for around 5 mins at a time. So happening during the night. Even happening when the boiler was on standby and not on. The manufacturer and house builder said that's just the way it is. I couldn't believe that as the advert for boiler said silent operation. Fortunately a neighbour who had the same problem managed to get hers sorted. A plumber fixed hers a couple of years ago and he is coming out this week. He said from what he can remember it was the bypass valve and possibly also the pump speed. Would that sound right given the issue?
Hi, thanks for asking, Sad the firm says that's OK clearly not. If there is a pattern then somehow the setting have been changed, usually I reset the whole system via a reset button or enter a code, find out how to do that. Call the firm again via social media if others have the same fault, find and ask their local hero message the boss so others can see you are not happy, that often works, Hope that helps
George Staszak 👍
@@mrcombiBedford Thanks George. I'll look into that.
@@mrcombiBedford
Is this boiler bypass required to be fitted on a standard combi boiler that has no zone valves etc?
@@grimawormtongue2014 Dear Grima, thanks for asking, yes an external auto by pass MUST be fitted to EVERY system not the boiler which is done at the factory. Many installers are too lazy and ripoff and lie to customers, it's a shame but true. It does say that in every install information. Take care, George 😀👍
George im converting my combi to ufh + rads with 2 zone valves, my combi had built in by pass should I add an external one
Hi Harps, as I said many times YES. You cannot expect a little screw inside a boiler to regulate the whole heating system. Too many installers don't bother because they make money on fixing rather than preventing, shame.😩regards George
Thanks george. I have now installed the AB on my system. I have configured it using the graph and the min flow lites per min.
I have now plumbed up and wired my UFH to my combi boiler with existing rads.
I have a problem I figured out why the boiler was short cycling on and off when just running on ufh.
Basically the ufh only requires 2.5kw.
The boiler can only modulated down to minimum of 7k that's why it's short cycling on and off.
If I run rads and ufh it works fine.
Im thinking of removing motorized zone valve on the central heating side.
Any other ideas that I can do to make the system run better.
Hi Harps, yes it's a requirement for the heating circuit, ignore the built in one. regards, george
@@harpssingh1477 Hi Harps, a 2.5 load any boiler will complain because of lack of circulation, put balancing TRVs except lounge the AB will sort out the most efficient mode. 👍😃 George
Thanks George sounds like a plan.
My new vaillant keeps flashing F64 fault code. I think this video will sort this problem! 🤔
That's a new boiler due to sludge damage, george
The system had a clean before the corrosion inhibitor? 🤔
@@tig376 Always HOT flush at least twice to remove as much rubbish as possible. Over dose is better than NO dose also keep the water pressure at 1 bar ir 1.3 in max heat by adding a big expansion vessel see my video, all systems are more efficient (cost less to run) at 1 bar. regards george staszak