That young man was a very good explanation of the troubleshooting of the generators that I have ever came across. Clear and concise. Thank you for sharing your knowledge of these units.
Outstanding I understood ever detail on how to test my cat 8000E. Very clear and cool way to do a youtube everyone needs to watch this guy is great. Thank You
Some generators of the 'BRUSHLESS' have a rotor with double windings, connected together by a set of diodes or rectifiers/bridge. The rotor spins within a slight magnetic field building up alternating current which in turn is changed to D.C. and creates a powerfull field on the 2 faces or poles of the rotor. As you know, a diode prevents current flowing in one direction, yet allows in the other direction, like as my friend Taryl says, an electrical check valve. The fixed winding/s are known as the 'ST8or or Stator, the part that turns is the revolving field known as a rotor. This whole assembly is in ways similar to the alternator in a car. the rotor here being of 2 poles only while the rotor in the car has a number of toothlike poles, but then again, the car alternator is delivering 3 phase power and changing to D.C. by means of the bank of diodes. The AVR here is similar to the voltage reg. in a car, the lower the btter gets due to the load placed on it, more field is applied to the rotor thu, yup the sliprings. No matter how many KW at a given voltage, over-curent must be avoided, that is why fuses or circuit breakers are employed.
So, the AVR is actually regulating the main AC output voltage, by regulating a DC voltage that goes to the rotor coils ? You put 12vdc to the rotor coils, that resulted with 57vac main output. So, I'm assuming about 26 ish vdc to the rotor coils , would create the desired 120 vac ? I would be curious to see the actual voltage the AVR sends to the rotor coil. BTW, Great video.
Excellent video! I have surging power at my outlets on a 2200 watt generator. Produces power for a second, then no power, keeps repeating. When I run 12v to the brushes, everything works as it should... what could it be? Thanks in advance
Briggs & Stratton generator ran out of gas under load, upon filling and restart, (which I believe was done under power) it blew several control boards on appliances, garage door openers etc…. Voltage tested properly from generator, but lights were coming on and off, as if AVR was toast??? What do you think?
yes there is a difference. Read this blog powerinsiderpro.com/avr-vs-capacitor-generator/#:~:text=Well%2C%20the%20AVR%20generator%20is,capacitor%20in%20a%20capacitor%20generator.&text=The%20capacitor%20generators%20are%20cheaper,is%20the%20overall%20better%20generator.
Exellent tutorial. However you skipped over how to match your hertz to your voltage and engine speed. For example if your hertz are at 70 and you need them at 60 but your voltage is 120 @ 70 hertz. when you adjust your engine speed down to 60 hertz now you have 105 volts or so. I liked your video it was spot on.
Excellent video...thanx! Is there a way to test just the AVR in order to see if it's working or not? (I am a novice at generator repair, and my 6.5KW 220v gen suddenly has no output power). Thanx & Regards, Alex Cape Town.
First you need to try flashing it. Some generators dont have a perminant magnet on the armature and it can cause an issue with the lack of a magnetic charge to start the process. That should always be the first step if your getting no power because it requires no disasembly. start the generator and plug in a drill, hold the trigger in and spin the chuck to turn the drill motor over by hand. If that is the problem after a few times doing that the drill should just take off and start spinning on it own. I dont know if this one has the magnets or not but giving it a try cant hurt. Then follow this video for doing your testing.
Hey Tyler I need a little help. (Great vid btw) my portable generator is a 12,000 watt 120/240. My question is can any generator of this type (no switch to transfer from just 120-120/240 volts it’s always 120/240) however what’s the reason they tie all the common wires on the r1 stud and can I re wire mine So all the common wires are on R1? And if I can what can I expect as far as performance I.e. wattage , volts , etc P.s. it is, an AVR style generator like yours in the video. Thanks so much for any input or help you can offer. Thanks Tyler
In my opinion the only reason they tie them all together is to save money. When they are tied together like that it can cause a slight back feed and drop performance. If any re wiring was to be done i would add a extra common coming from your cont panel and match it to the correct wire on the main board on the gen end.
Great video. I learned a good bit. I have a generator that shakes like hell when the capacitor is hooked up but runs smooth when it’s out. It’s a brushless gen end. Anybody had a problem like this?
That young man was a very good explanation of the troubleshooting of the generators that I have ever came across. Clear and concise. Thank you for sharing your knowledge of these units.
Best step by step generator diagnosis video so far and I've watched a few.
You did extremely well. This was the best video for troubleshooting generator motors.
Tyler, you are the man, I now understand how my genny works and what can potentially go wrong with it.
Outstanding I understood ever detail on how to test my cat 8000E. Very clear and cool way to do a youtube everyone needs to watch this guy is great. Thank You
Glad it was helpful!
Some generators of the 'BRUSHLESS' have a rotor with double windings, connected
together by a set of diodes or rectifiers/bridge. The rotor spins within a slight magnetic
field building up alternating current which in turn is changed to D.C. and creates a
powerfull field on the 2 faces or poles of the rotor. As you know, a diode prevents
current flowing in one direction, yet allows in the other direction, like as my friend Taryl
says, an electrical check valve. The fixed winding/s are known as the 'ST8or or Stator,
the part that turns is the revolving field known as a rotor.
This whole assembly is in ways similar to the alternator in a car. the rotor here being
of 2 poles only while the rotor in the car has a number of toothlike poles, but then again,
the car alternator is delivering 3 phase power and changing to D.C. by means of the bank
of diodes. The AVR here is similar to the voltage reg. in a car, the lower the btter gets due
to the load placed on it, more field is applied to the rotor thu, yup the sliprings.
No matter how many KW at a given voltage, over-curent must be avoided, that is why
fuses or circuit breakers are employed.
So, the AVR is actually regulating the main AC output voltage, by regulating a DC voltage that goes to the rotor coils ? You put 12vdc to the rotor coils, that resulted with 57vac main output. So, I'm assuming about 26 ish vdc to the rotor coils , would create the desired 120 vac ? I would be curious to see the actual voltage the AVR sends to the rotor coil. BTW, Great video.
Excellent video! I have surging power at my outlets on a 2200 watt generator. Produces power for a second, then no power, keeps repeating. When I run 12v to the brushes, everything works as it should... what could it be? Thanks in advance
Wow! Great teaching. Thank you Kind regards, Craaig
Briggs & Stratton generator ran out of gas under load, upon filling and restart, (which I believe was done under power) it blew several control boards on appliances, garage door openers etc….
Voltage tested properly from generator, but lights were coming on and off, as if AVR was toast???
What do you think?
Could be the AVR if the power kills every 30 seconds or so, AVR usually resets every 30 seconds
Great information shared here, thank you
Great video. The best on here for this type of fault. I have ordered a new AVR. Thanks.
Hello there what is the difference between the AVR and the capacitor so is this is considered as a capacitor Or just a voltage regulator?
yes there is a difference. Read this blog
powerinsiderpro.com/avr-vs-capacitor-generator/#:~:text=Well%2C%20the%20AVR%20generator%20is,capacitor%20in%20a%20capacitor%20generator.&text=The%20capacitor%20generators%20are%20cheaper,is%20the%20overall%20better%20generator.
this was a good explanation
Exellent tutorial. However you skipped over how to match your hertz to your voltage and engine speed. For example if your hertz are at 70 and you need them at 60 but your voltage is 120 @ 70 hertz. when you adjust your engine speed down to 60 hertz now you have 105 volts or so.
I liked your video it was spot on.
Great info thanks for your help sir
My pleasure
Thanks! Good explanation!
thank you for the information sir.
well done! if you ever want hvac instructions just let me know.
What’s up man. Great video. I’m getting 90v through my brushes. What would cause that?
AC or DC?
I have 110 on only 1 plug on my 220 output?
If you test directly off of the end is it producing 220v ? If so then the problem is either in the wire that feeds the plug or the plug itself.
Excellent video...thanx!
Is there a way to test just the AVR in order to see if it's working or not? (I am a novice at generator repair, and my 6.5KW 220v gen suddenly has no output power).
Thanx & Regards,
Alex
Cape Town.
I myself have never found a way to correctly 100% test a AVR, other than the 12v to the brushes to give you a 50/50
my same generator starting no problem but no out put power,,please solve this problem
First you need to try flashing it. Some generators dont have a perminant magnet on the armature and it can cause an issue with the lack of a magnetic charge to start the process. That should always be the first step if your getting no power because it requires no disasembly. start the generator and plug in a drill, hold the trigger in and spin the chuck to turn the drill motor over by hand. If that is the problem after a few times doing that the drill should just take off and start spinning on it own. I dont know if this one has the magnets or not but giving it a try cant hurt. Then follow this video for doing your testing.
Check AVR good or not
Thank you very much I learned a lot
Good video. Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Hey Tyler I need a little help. (Great vid btw) my portable generator is a 12,000 watt 120/240. My question is can any generator of this type (no switch to transfer from just 120-120/240 volts it’s always 120/240) however what’s the reason they tie all the common wires on the r1 stud and can I re wire mine So all the common wires are on R1? And if I can what can I expect as far as performance I.e. wattage , volts , etc
P.s. it is, an AVR style generator like yours in the video.
Thanks so much for any input or help you can offer. Thanks Tyler
In my opinion the only reason they tie them all together is to save money. When they are tied together like that it can cause a slight back feed and drop performance. If any re wiring was to be done i would add a extra common coming from your cont panel and match it to the correct wire on the main board on the gen end.
Great video, so I tested my brushes output and I'm getting 70 volts AC. Rotor is toast I guess?
Great video. I learned a good bit.
I have a generator that shakes like hell when the capacitor is hooked up but runs smooth when it’s out. It’s a brushless gen end.
Anybody had a problem like this?
Most of the time that means your gen end is shorting and the engine is trying its best to keep up with the load.
nice thanks a lot
Happy to help
Do you support Kubota generator?
No sorry we do not
thanks !
Great 👍