I’m going to need to make an adapter plate from my new plain back 4 jaw chuck to D1-4 on my lathe. In the near future. So this was timely appearance in my feed.
Sounds like a nice project! Getting the face and taper contact relationship correct sounds challenging. Maybe you already know but backplates for D-style spindles are widely available pre-machined to correct spec if you want to save the hassle.
@@ED_T You're very welcome, and I see that you have other tool builds on your channel. Let me know if you want a free forum membership (usually $69/year) and you can post them on the forum to help grow your channel. We have many YTers doing the same.
@@homemadetools Thank you for the offer, I'm currently not active on any metalworking/DIY forums. I feel the membership would go unused so I'll respectfully decline. Again, thank you for the offer. Have a nice day!
Absolutely great, really clean job, high precision, clean hands to put out every dirt, they are the best sensitive tool, the style is catching attention.❤❤❤
Im about to start on a L00 collet chuck for my lathe. What im wondering is will the timing of the key mess with things? Ex. When turning the taper, the location of the lathes key needs to be marked on the new taper or it will be out of time.
The location of the key slot does not matter. You can cut it after you have finished cutting the taper in any position. What that’s for is when you machine the chuck side of it, mounted on the new taper, it’s mounted in the same orientation every time you mount it back on the machine in the future. So in theory you should have zero runout when you take it off and put it back on again.
Hi man. I have a Ramo T-37. When you measure is "6 teeth per inch" but the gauge is metric 60. Can u help me with that ? and the number of those gear at the back to get 4.23mm pitch cause mine íntruction aluminium sheet is fade. Tks man
The gauge is double sided, one half is for metric threads, the other half is for 55° pipe threads. I was using a leaf from the 55° pipe thread side. 6 TPI happens to be one of the pitches used in pipe threads. The threading tool has a 60° angle to form the correct thread profile. It's not a pipe or Witworth thread so it's not 55°. On my machine the the gears and gear selectors to cut in 6 TPI need to be as follows: Gears from the spindle to the gearbox: A:40 teeth B:45 teeth C:40 teeth D:60 teeth E:63 teeth Gears B and C are on the same shaft, gear A meshes with B and C meshes with D There are 5 gearbox selector knobs, if your sheet is gone I will tell you the positions of each knob from left to right: Knob 1: Neutral position (middle) Knob 2: Left position (counter clockwise) Knob 3: Neutral position (middle) Knob 4: Right position (clockwise) Knob 5: Right position (clockwise, this is the threading or feeding selector) You can contact me on Instagram @ed_and_t if you want a detailed image of the whole sheet
Very nice! I'm just curious about the slotting. Why not cut the majority of the slot with the end mill, then just clean out the corners with the slotting tool? I'm actually going to do that process today on a timing pulley. Thanks
Good question, I kind of brute forced my way through this one. It works but the slot depth was not critical since the key is bolted into the spindle. I don't think I have and end mill that long in that diameter or smaller. It would have been better to use a larger bar with a HSS toolbit mounted to have a stiffer slotting action and a tool with more relief behind the cutting edge. I could have also made a narrower slotting tool reducing the cutting force and just step over to get to the size. All lessons for next time :)
I haven't planned a specific video about it because I made it before starting to make videos. Sounds like a fun idea though. If you want to know specific things about it you can always ask.
Yeah I was pretty surprised at the amount of porosity. The previous backplate I made out of a casting for a DIN 800 spindle adapter had much less porosity. Maybe I’ll make the next one from steel.
I’m going to need to make an adapter plate from my new plain back 4 jaw chuck to D1-4 on my lathe. In the near future.
So this was timely appearance in my feed.
Sounds like a nice project! Getting the face and taper contact relationship correct sounds challenging. Maybe you already know but backplates for D-style spindles are widely available pre-machined to correct spec if you want to save the hassle.
Great work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Awesome! Thank you!
@@ED_T You're very welcome, and I see that you have other tool builds on your channel. Let me know if you want a free forum membership (usually $69/year) and you can post them on the forum to help grow your channel. We have many YTers doing the same.
@@homemadetools Thank you for the offer, I'm currently not active on any metalworking/DIY forums. I feel the membership would go unused so I'll respectfully decline. Again, thank you for the offer. Have a nice day!
Absolutely great, really clean job, high precision, clean hands to put out every dirt, they are the best sensitive tool, the style is catching attention.❤❤❤
Thank you! Some of the best tools you are given at birth 😁
Great bit of machining... Perfect...
Thank you Dave! Had to do my best considering the material I ended up with here 😁
Great work as always.
Thanks for watching!
Very nice. Clean perfect job.
Thanks for watching!
Looks and works great!
Thanks for watching!
Im about to start on a L00 collet chuck for my lathe. What im wondering is will the timing of the key mess with things? Ex. When turning the taper, the location of the lathes key needs to be marked on the new taper or it will be out of time.
The location of the key slot does not matter. You can cut it after you have finished cutting the taper in any position. What that’s for is when you machine the chuck side of it, mounted on the new taper, it’s mounted in the same orientation every time you mount it back on the machine in the future. So in theory you should have zero runout when you take it off and put it back on again.
Excellent job..
Thanks!
Hi man. I have a Ramo T-37. When you measure is "6 teeth per inch" but the gauge is metric 60. Can u help me with that ? and the number of those gear at the back to get 4.23mm pitch cause mine íntruction aluminium sheet is fade. Tks man
The gauge is double sided, one half is for metric threads, the other half is for 55° pipe threads. I was using a leaf from the 55° pipe thread side. 6 TPI happens to be one of the pitches used in pipe threads.
The threading tool has a 60° angle to form the correct thread profile. It's not a pipe or Witworth thread so it's not 55°.
On my machine the the gears and gear selectors to cut in 6 TPI need to be as follows:
Gears from the spindle to the gearbox:
A:40 teeth
B:45 teeth
C:40 teeth
D:60 teeth
E:63 teeth
Gears B and C are on the same shaft, gear A meshes with B and C meshes with D
There are 5 gearbox selector knobs, if your sheet is gone I will tell you the positions of each knob from left to right:
Knob 1: Neutral position (middle)
Knob 2: Left position (counter clockwise)
Knob 3: Neutral position (middle)
Knob 4: Right position (clockwise)
Knob 5: Right position (clockwise, this is the threading or feeding selector)
You can contact me on Instagram @ed_and_t if you want a detailed image of the whole sheet
Very nice! I'm just curious about the slotting. Why not cut the majority of the slot with the end mill, then just clean out the corners with the slotting tool? I'm actually going to do that process today on a timing pulley. Thanks
Good question, I kind of brute forced my way through this one. It works but the slot depth was not critical since the key is bolted into the spindle.
I don't think I have and end mill that long in that diameter or smaller.
It would have been better to use a larger bar with a HSS toolbit mounted to have a stiffer slotting action and a tool with more relief behind the cutting edge. I could have also made a narrower slotting tool reducing the cutting force and just step over to get to the size. All lessons for next time :)
Can you please show your tool post grinder in a video?
I haven't planned a specific video about it because I made it before starting to make videos. Sounds like a fun idea though. If you want to know specific things about it you can always ask.
@@ED_T I just want a general overview how it is built, how it works, what parts were used etc
I'll try to show it in more detail in the next video when I use it
El ajuste del plato al dispositivo debería ser cónico,garantiza mejor centraje.
very brittle Material : ( ....but in the end, well done! Thanks for sharing 👍
Yeah I was pretty surprised at the amount of porosity. The previous backplate I made out of a casting for a DIN 800 spindle adapter had much less porosity. Maybe I’ll make the next one from steel.
It would be better if you made it from aluminium😄, your material is too soft
I’ll stick with cast iron, but I do need to find better quality material
Tough way to make a keyway! Otherwise excellent!
I don’t have any kind of slotting machine, so this will have to do