Atwood Intermittent RV Water Heater Issue -- My RV Works
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- Опубліковано 3 бер 2022
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My RV Works, Inc. Certified RV Technician, Darren Koepp, works on an Atwood/Dometic Water Heater that is working intermittently. Follow along with him as he goes through the process of determining what the problem with the water heater is.
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Videos Mentioned In This Video
“Dometic/Atwood RV Water Heater Overview, Burp, And Backflush”
• Dometic/Atwood RV Wate...
“How To Back Flush An RV Water Heater”
• How To Back Flush An R...
“Diagnosing A Suburban RV Water Heater AC and DC Electrical Problems”
• Diagnosing a Suburban ...
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Internet Links to Parts Mentioned In this Water Heater Video
Link on Amazon for Solenoid Valves: amzn.to/3guerZQ
(Note: These are for Suburban Water Heaters)
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Im new to the RV world and your videos are a god sent,, please do not stop.
There are many videos on line showing how to attempt to trouble shoot and attempt repairs to RV water heaters.
However, all of the videos done by myRVWorks are extremely well done by thorough explanation and video reinforcement. Truly some of the best productions concerning on-line RV trouble shooting and repairs for novice persons like myself.
This was a very thorough video by a professional. I was getting frustrated by all of the videos by RV owners who don’t have a clue. Thank you!
~5:52 is where I found my answer; shoveling snow off the roof here in Truckee, CA after the recent blizzard piled up to the windows of the RV which completely covered the vent/door of the water heater. I thought it must have been the blocked exhaust vent that choked it out, but it wouldn't relight despite being a fairly simple mechanism. Turns out it was the thermal fuse that was inline and blown. Thank you for your knowledgeable explanation.
Darren,
I sure appreciate you taking the time and effort to create a video that helps us RV owners troubleshoot their own water heater issues. We have a 2004 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP and of course, it's a 20-year-old coach. The water heater is a CGH10A-4E with the three ways of heating the water. "Motor aid", 120AC and of course Propane. Well, this w/h has been working flawlessly for over 20 years and just recently, stopped working, on both 120AC and Propane. We were camping at the time and me and a buddy did some investigation and determined that the Thermal Cutt off element was bad. We removed it from the loop and connect the brown wire directly to the thermostat. Zooom, the water heater kicked right off, Yahooooo.
Upon returning home, I ordered up the correct thermal cut off element and upon receiving it, I inserted back into the loop and the heater kicked on for about 2-3 seconds and right back off. I removed the new thermal cut off element and reconnected the brown wire to the t-stat and still no light. I have continuity through the t-stat and the ECO. But, based on your evaluation and explanation of how the flow of electricity works in these heaters, I'm pretty sure I'm not getting any power (12V) to the red wire to feed the ECO.
I just received a new circuit board and will install it tomorrow. We'll see if that was/is the problem. Thanks again so much for your assistance here. By the way, I can't seem to find your video on the explanation of all the colored wires and their function you said you made. I'll keep looking. Thanks again.
Scott
Great Video-explained all elements regarding "electrical" parts that can go bad and how to check. My only suggestion is the part that I found was left out (or perhaps I missed it). The "venturie" or "ventura". Removed this brass part(be careful, mine was very tight) Positioned the orifice toward the sun and noticed the "hole opening" appeared to be occluded somewhat. Used a straight pen, cleaned it out and WA-LA. Reassembled and "Fire in the hole".
I’m a brand new RV tech…I watch your videos to augment the tons of training we get…great stuff here..
I’ve fixed my old RV water heater thanks to your videos. It’s not fun taking a shower in ice cold water. 🧊🚿Your videos gives me a very good idea how ,why and where to look . Thank you !
Thanks a million. My water heater was flaming outside of the burner tube. Per your advice I removed it and saw a thin spider web film at the bend that was blocking the flow. A few scrapes with a flat blade screwdriver and a blast of compressed air and I was back in business. I caught it in time before the flames could melt the thermal cutoff. Thanks again.
Great video!!! My board was bad but only on the spark. Full continuity on the “striker” but would not click and would not read flame when I lit manually with bbq lighter. Problem, I already bought eco, thermostat, thermal fuse and installed them. So replaced the board and it works like new! Heck its only been used once on gas in 3 years we’ve had it. I learned a lot doing this, then more watching this video. Now I have spare parts! Wish that board wasn’t $200ish. Thanks!!!
Me again. I should have paid attention to the name of your video !!!! My water heater was intermittently shutting off. When you disconnected the multi wire plug in the top right, it fixed your problem. RIGHT ? so I just kept watching and trying some of the other fixes. after 2 days of messing around I finally thought I should try what you did by disconnecting the plug, BINGO !!!! corroded plug !!! pulled it off and put it on a few times , IT"S WORKING !!! It appears to have been the corroded plug. My trailer is about 12 years old. Evidently enough time for a plug to corrode !!! I must remember to try the simple fixes FIRST !!!!!! Thank you !! Thank you !!!
Hello Darren, new subscriber here. I have the exact same Atwood unit you are working on in the video. My service began due to the unit intermittently popping or opening the pressure relief valve. Before I started my service and replacing of parts, the frequency of the problem was much greater. So, I removed and clean and bench tested the gas valve assembly, I replaced both the T-stat and the ECO limits, I drained and cleaned the tank, I removed the shields and totally cleaned the exhaust vent, I removed the igniter, clean it and set the gap at 1/8" + - and I replaced the pressure relief valve. The only item left was the board. I ordered one on line and when I installed it, the igniter would run and not shout off even after the gas valve opened and flame was visible. It's like the board doesn't see that the flame is established and it shuts the gas vale back off. After a couple of cycles, the red light on my inside control panel lights up red and I must reset it for another cycle.There is plenty of gas and if I switch back to the old control board I'm back where I started. It operates but still occasionally, pops the pressure relief valve.
GAHHHH😵 prolly not ever gonna attempt this self repair. Thank u for that ton of info tho. And great for your excitement over the Eagle. Lots around here at the Chesapeake Bay. They are beautiful everytime !
Awesome, great tutorial. I have the same exact model number. Just did some work on mine. Had a bad element, but as luck would have it, the new element was bad too. Took some time before I figured it out. What are the odds that the new element would be bad? I couldn’t believe it. Anyway, love the videos and the detail you provide. God Bless!
Tech’s dream “click click wow I fixed it”! 👍
Thank you for the videos they are a big help. I think pulling the wires on and off you made a better connection
Where were you yesterday when I was trouble shooting a nos ignition issue on my water heater? Troubleshooting blind I wiggled the connector on the control module and it started so I found the fault but this video certainly was helpful and gave me a much better understanding of how the system works. BTW, your presentation style keeps it entertaining as well.
Excellent as always. You are top notch explaining. Always helps me with all my repairs.
Very clearly explained. Thank you for this fine video.
Very informative! It didn’t answer why mine lights up fine but kept clicking after it was already lit. Then shuts off after a few seconds and the fault lift inside the coach stays on. You started to say "If this would have kept doing that" when referring to the tik tik sound but never finished.I will now look at your other videos and subscribe and like.
The flame sensor/igniter is faulty if it continues to try and ignite while flame is on. Then the flame kicks off.
The igniter should send a signal to the board telling it to stop igniting, it is not doing that.
Me again. CHECK FOR CORRODED WIRE CONNECTIONS FIRST !!! I recently spent over 3 months in North Carolina with LOTS OF RAIN and extremely cold weather. And it was a corroded connection.. THANK YOU !!!!! I am NOT A MECHANIC !! Just a parts changer . I was so close to just getting a new water heater. GOT LUCKY with your video. Thank you !!!!
Watched the video and it helped me troubleshoot and fix my WH. It was the problem of firing and shutting down after about 10-15 sec. Pulled out the tubing, all wire connectors and igniter, cleaned all and put back together. It worked. Have HOT WATER! Wife is much happier now! Have to see if electric side works now.
Lastly Adjusted air intake and even at the smallest opening it will run quiet but intermittently it will roar again off and on. What could be causing that? Thanks again for your great videos!
I enjoy your videos and have learned much from them. I have a WH-6GEA Dometic. I have so far replaced the thermal fuse two times. Because this is a safety device and is a common issue, do you know what the solution to the fuse blowing is? The link is installed horizontally. The flame is a bit more yellow than I'd like to see. The last time it blew, I did hear it short cycling, on and off.
Awesome buddy best informative video i seen on you tube yet, i have no hot water but now i know how and what to test, peace to you and your little buddy cheers Graham
Great vid, great kid,details, details, always appreciated, wish I was your assistant I like to work and I work cheap
Great video. My electric side on my Atwood is not working and I have been troubleshooting but unsuccessful so far. My issue and what I learned today is I don’t know how to use my multimeter and will check the advice today and see what the issue is. I suspect the thermostat and will go check continuity. I can also recommend the dinosaur DSI board.
This guy is very very good explaining everything even the little details that a lot don't.. And the devil's in the details.. This is a mechanic not a parts changer!!! Big difference..
So very thorough. Love it big D! My issue is with the electric intermittent heat. Lp is good.
Love this video! Helped and fixed. Thanks!
Thank you so much we have a flight trailer and you are a big help thanks and you have a smart son God bless
Great job!
I need to review mine this spring, specifically on the 12v not AC I had an issue where mine would fire off no problem first thing in the morning, but once it was out of hot water and went to kick off again I would just get the tick tick tick and it would not refire. Tried new thermostat, eco, and sparker just odd it all works fine, until it doesn't.
You are The Bomb, Darren! Thanks for the tutorial!
Your video helped me fix my problem on my water heater THANK YOU>
Thanks for sharing!
Excellent video. Thank you so much for doing your videos. It really helps me
You're very welcome!
New subscriber here. I will be headed to school in July for tech and inspector school. I have watched a couple of your video and really enjoy them. I believe you are in Washington State? We re also in Washington State until June when we will be moving out of state.
According to Dometic techs, replacing the plastic drain plug with something else voids the warranty. They state the plastic plug is a safety feature - last resort on overheat over pressurizing the tank.
I call that BS. They are not in the water heaters you have in your homes. They use the same safety valves.
I never heard that. The reason in the manual states it requires a plastic plug because it's an aluminum tank and brass and aluminum are not compatable metals with each other.
I was leaking water out of the pressure release valve for a couple weeks till I changed it. one day later, power is completely died on the unit for both gas and electricity. what are you suggest or recommend? this is the most informative video I've ever seen on the subject by the way. thanks
Great video I seen your previous video on what all the wiring voltage should be and what do they do. I have trouble shot my RV based on your video and have a question. So I traced power and I have power at the thermostat and back to the control panel and back out to the yellow cable that goes to the back of the heater to a relay. My question is how can I find the rear relay? In this video you consider the board bad if you don’t have any power going to the gas valve but doesn’t the relay send the power back to the board before it sends power to the gas valve?
just bought my camper with this exact model you have, neither modes work. after watching your video I discovered they were missing the fuse and the ground wasnt hooked up. ty
You my friend are the best. 👍😎👏✝️
Great video
you my friend are a very good tech good explanation
I sure wish you were down here in Seaside, Oregon! My Atwood went down - "pilot out light" stayed illuminated. Changed out both thermostats, the thermal fuze and the circuit board. Now, the AC heat works, but the LP does not. After checking the red wire leading to the ECO I see I get only 8.55 volts when the switch is on. Also, there is an electrical "hum" somewhere near the circuit board that happens when the switch is on. Man, any help from anyone reading this is appreciated!
EXCELLENT !!! EXCELLENT !!! Thank You !!!
Awesome video n very descriptive. My waterheater shuts down after 4 to 10 mins. The red wire is reading 11.1 volts n brown are reading12.0v. The orange wire into board shows 12.7. Batteries show 13.4 . I'm thinking that the board is reading that 11.1 volts and shutting down. Am I on the rite track or is it the board making resistance n making the 11.v?
Just as on your video, mine stopped coming on and after removing a few wires just poking around inside the panel, it began working again! Although its working fine, I have the LP "fault" light illuminating on the switch panel. Now to find out what's going on this this fault light, any ideas?
Not the problem that I have, but your explanation of the function, turned on the light bulb. Got out the DMM after knowing what wires should be doing what. I am pretty sure I found the issue. Waiting on parts
Awesome videos! My Atwood (Lp mode )water heater cycles 3 times like it wants to turn on. If I turn off/on the switch 3 times or more. It will then run for about 5 mins then turn off. Could it be the mother board ?
My electric has never worked . But with your videos I am going to find out what is the issue.
great video,
I have an atwood water heater. I have replaced the thermocouple and the mother board. It starts up on gas with no problem, it runs for about 15 minutes, and shuts off, it will not turn back on by itself. I did check the fuses. do you think it could be the thermostat?
Thanks you saved me lots of money
Best. Vid. Ever. for repairing a Dometic/Atwood water heater. ...having said that, I learned to always double check the bypass valves... I managed to successfully mimic a dual electric/gas failure. I now have a nice stock of spare parts in case I get an actual failure. :) Does anyone want to buy a circuit board for a Dometic GC6AA-10E, part# 91447.. Looks like I won't be needing it right away..........
Thanks for the share on this heater video👍🏻 my neighbors even has propane heater and hot water. But he is not getting propane to his hw heater any advise.?
A pro video. Well done sir!
Did all do you have instructed!! Replaced thermal cutoff, new igniter and new control box. Seems like it's starving for propane! Will I need to order a new solenoid valve? It's a gh6 - 8e. It was firing up and then it was having trouble keeping propane flowing. It's kept clicking and then nothing 😭
My LP switch on the inside of my camper does not light up. The electric side does. Any thing I can check since my LP side of my water heater doesn't work? Fuse or circuit breaker?
Once again, you are one of the best at explaining everything! And I have recommended your videos to many of my friends. You are very thorough and hope you keep up the great work!
So if I do not have 12volts leaving on the yellow wire I have a bad control board?
Wonderful video, man! Having our water heater not detect the ignition, *BUT* the spark component is fine (also measured and replaced). It ignites 3 times immediately but the spark does not stop, indicating the detection is not happening. Some thing to note is that both replacement boards I used hum.. Everything is grounded well. Any thoughts on what to dig into further, or should I just get a Dinosaur board and hope it will work better or ?
UPDATE: Dinosaur board works great! - Returned the 'not made in the USA' boards which DID NOT work. Get what "My RV Works, Inc." recommends!
Hi there! Great video. I have an Atwood hot water heater.
I am having the issue with the flame going out after just a few seconds.
I took apart few parts and cleaned everything and installed a new igniter, but the flame still goes out after a few seconds. Do you have any other ideas on what the problem may be?
Thank you
What’s the cause of warm water coming out a Atwood? Replaced both thermostats, control board, adjusted flame, replaced electric element. I believe I didn’t turn on a bypass valve .Any ideas?
i got a six pack of those thermal fuses for $14 bucks on amazon
What would cause my circuit board fuse to keep blowing ?
I have a 2018 Attwood water heater that try's to start but makes popping noise after ignition and flames out, this happen mutable times before it starts. Any Idea where to start looking, or have you seen this before? GREAT Videos I'm subscribe and watch all the time.
Try getting a can of the office air and blowing it through your burn tube. You may be picking up some rust or spider nest or something in there that's restricting the gas flow.
@@MyRVWorks thank you I will try that if not I just looked your lasted video and it will help diagnosis the problem.
Common sense! Tks.
@MyRVWorks i have a Atwood 16-6e(a) water heater ,i have replaced all parts trying to get it to work properly.everything trys to ignite but the gas solenoid valves wont open.i can hotwire the valves from battery when unit is trying to ignite and away it goes no problem..but plug it all back in as normal and they wont open.....any ideas??.....new solenoids,thermostat,overheat and pc board......thanks Dan.
Dame GENO! Awesome video and your detailed explanation. You got a new follower for life. Was wondering why you kept saying AC powe instead od DC. But then I realized you were calling it as the switch control has it written, LP & AC. anyways thanks for sharing your knowledge.
U R the MAN!! I've seen some of your videos and I give U= 👍,a10+, I am very PLEASED. TY for being U.
A little TECH help please. I have 2002 HURRICANE. 30Q.
Running the Generator = powers AC.,Microwave no problem. But when I plug in the TV IT'LL play
about 10min. And then it starts to turn ON &OFF. But when hooked to shore line it works fine.PLEASE give some insight. I'm way to far to come to U & to far for to come to me.T Y
great video I have a question about my system....I have a gc6aa-10e gas and electric water heater...I just installed a new board because the entire gas system was missing as well as the circuit board. I have no power on the yellow wire, but if I jumper brown to yellow to get power the internal relay turns on and I get hot water. My question is with the gas solenoid and ignitor missing will the circuit board allow electric operation or no? I'm stuck between whether the new board I got is DOA or it needs to sense some resistance from the gas items to turn power on for that yellow wire. I get a DSI FLT at the remote switch as well. Any help would be great!
Which brown wire are you referring to? The one on the top with the orange and white wires? Or the one on the bottom that has the red, yellow and blue wires? The electric part of that circuit is totally separate from the LP gas side of the circuit. So power from the switch should come in on the white wire on top, and then leave on the brown top wire then go to the thermostat and come in on the lower ground wire. It then comes out of the DSi board on the yellow wire do the relay in back. So use a DMM to verify the 12 volt path.
@@MyRVWorks thanks for the reply…I have power on the white wire when the switch electric side switch is on. That gives me power on the brown wire in the top connector…I have power on the brown wire in the bottom connector next to the yellow wire as well. I have power on both sides of the 2amp fuse. But no power on the yellow. If I jump the lower brown to yellow giving that 12volts I hear the inside relay click and I get hot water. But without that I get no power and a dsiflt at the remote switch. I do not have any gas components as I mentioned they were removed from the camper. So my theory is the new board I put in is just bad or it needs to see some sort of resistance from the gas components to remove that fault and provide power to the yellow wire. Side note I also tried removing the diode on the thermostat for testing too to see if that could be the issue and wired the lower brown wire direct to the thermostat but no difference.
My cousin came from Fla to Ma and his HW cycles 3 times and shuts down, 1st thing I found was the blown 2 amp fuse on the board and it kept blowing the fuse so we replaced the board Things Ive checked lit stove to purge the gas just in case then Continuity at the ECO and T-Stat, thermal cut off, I powerd the solenoids with 12 volts and blew through the gas valve, also checked each solenoid separately and got 41 ish olms, Replaced the igniter flame sensor just because, cleaned all connections and the body when I had it apart still cycles 3 times and cuts out, no voltage to the solenoids once it cuts out so something is telling the board its not lit, possibly low gas pressure next ?
Did light the fridge on propane and worked flawlessly so water column pressure at gas valve may be fine.
We are watching videos to figure out what is wrong with our Water Heater, it is turned on to LP and it runs, heats the water, then kicks off as it is supposed to do. Then it kicks off and on a lot, after it heats up.
What could be the problem??? We think Thermostat, but we also are thinking Computer board. Do you have any suggestions? It is 9 years old and not used often.
We would appreciate any suggestions you could offer.
Thanks for a great video!!!!
Water Heater not showing spark, have power on brown wire 13 volts, checked solenoids 40 ohms, no power at read wire on control unit, both thermostat and eso replaced. How do i know the control unit is bad, which i suspect, no power at igniter connection at control unit. 1999 Jamboree
I have an Atwood heater gas fired up getting hot water only for about 15 seconds and turns cold and no more hot water tried electric mode same thing tried both mode still same thing . ?
Hello RV Works, My Atwood propane water heater will work great for a few days then the pilot will go out and won't re-ignite and the switch light will turn on red. Then i will need to manually re-ignite the pilot with a lighter and then it will turn back on. Any idea what might be causing this? I did recently replace the propane regulator and I checked the igniter gap for the correct space. TIA.
My Atwood is running on AC. Every so often the led over the gas switch illuminates and the water cools off. The gas switch is off. Is this some kind of fault code?
could it be out of gas?? pilot keeps clicking?
I could not find where to get a new ECO sticker.
HI ! How you doing today ,my Name is Mr.herman Woods . Can you do a video ! On changing out a atwood to a domestic water heater . I am doing one , The Gas line .Comeing in at the Bottom .And the Domestic ,comes in at the TOP ! I Bought 3/8 copper tubing . and add a 3/8 adapter flare to add more tubing , to make it to the top .of the water heater . Is that the way to do it ! Thank you for your Time. Mr.H. Woods
I have a spare Suburban 520900 electric water heater element that was for my old RV water heater. Would it work in my new RV that has a Dometic/Atwood water heater? It has two screw terminals on the end and would screw in. It looks like it would work but I don't know if the threads are the same.
It should work just fine. Most of these elements are Universal. Do a continuity/ohms test. It should come back in the neighborhood of 10 ohms.
@@MyRVWorks Thank you sir.
Hi there thanks for the video but I have question. My Atwood heater in a 2006 motorhome will fire up and burn for only 5 minutes then shuts down. I think its the circuit board and a connection inside is getting hot and opening up the circuit any thought?
Interesting, 5 minutes would be about the time I would suspect the high temperature switch would trip. Make sure you have no restrictions in your ductwork. I am working on the theory that the furnace is generating heat but it is having a difficult time getting rid of the heat. Therefore the heat is backing up inside of the furnace causing the high temperature switch to trip.
@@MyRVWorks the water heater I meant to say
My thermal fuse keeps blowing immediately after I put a new one in
First haha thanks for all you do.
What if the water heater heats but doesn’t turn off when it reaches its temperature.?
I have an Atwood 6 gal propane and 110 combo unit in my RV. It will fire up with a nice blue flame on propane, not with electric. Propane flow has good force but will not heat any water, I've purged the air from the tank, replaced thermal fuse, checked small 2 amp fuse on the front, and cleaned orifices as best as possible.. what could be the non heating issue and what should I look for next? It fires and ignites fine but will not go any further. I replaced the board with the Dinosaur UIB64, still no heated water from faucets.
Check the bypass water valve is closed, if open the cold water is bypassing the heater.
@@terrybreen3331 what would that look like on the back of the water heater? Is it inline in the plumbing? Sorry I've never seen one before. I will look for it when it gets a little warmer.
It's located where the water lines go into the water heater you should see three valves the valve between the two water lines is the bypass valve mine is located under my seat inside the cab.
How do I know if it’s my heating element that needs to be replaced?
At your heating element, with the power turned off at the breaker, disconnect one of the wires on the element screw. Then use a meter set to ohms and test the ohms between the two screws. A healthy heating element on a water heater should return about 10 ohms of resistance.
Too late for anything in this video, but my Atwood heater will fire up on gas every time with the cover open like in the video, but close the door and it fails to work. It does not have an electric heater, gas only
What year is this RV
1) corroded connectors 2) control board overheats and shuts down 3) too much AC ripple on DC circuit causing control board to fail
I made a mistake u flush the water heater and turned it back on without turning on water ....i this i damaged it
Water heater worked fine. Then I was parked on a pretty good hill, and it wouldn't light. I moved to a flat, and has worked just fine since. Coincidence, or???
Poor kid 🙄
a fuse
You took 12 minutes before you got to the reason I tuned in… namely the ECO switch. You might want to give a quick route overview next time before you fill in all the details on everything. If there’s one thing that everyone is fed up with it’s extra peripheral information regardless of what type. You can get to the details the second time through, but giving all the peripherals the first time through & the details on your second time through is so discouraging I can’t even describe it. Biggest prob is that everyone does this with their media, commercials & advertising & its literally killing all the various industries that various forms of media & commercials serve.
I’m a detail oriented guy & want extra information, but I don’t have time to wait 12 minutes every time I need specific info on a given detail, because I need specific info on 50 different things every day. So quick overviews first with detailed expectations on the second pass enable me to master everything I desperately need to master in todays super busy complex world.
repeat wash repeat to many repeated statement less talk more action love the guys work but talks and talks
To much information at one time. Get to the point we don't need to go to school. Your dyslexia is getting in the way.
Need service repair...how do I get in. Touch with you..
On our website www.myrvworks.com - right there on a landing page we have an orange box where you can submit your service request.