Not sure what 113 heads are? I did have Brodix IK200 heads on old 383. I have edelbrock performer rpm heads and torker II intake on newest Dart SHP 406 engine. I plan on upgrading to AFR heads this year with 3.54 Yukon gears. My current car has 3.07 gears and runs 12.52 in quarter mile, so 3.54 gears will put me into 11's with AFR 220's.
I'm doing a carb conversion on my 84 vette and was told you could use the existing fuel pump in the tank if you ran tach signal to one of the distributor wires to keep the pump running after startup would you know witch wire thanks.
I have never done what you are asking. I only have run 12v key on relay separate to fuel pump to prevent VATS system from shutting off fuel pump. There are 3 wires going to fuel pump harness. Black, purple, and grey that you can see on top of fuel tank under filler cap. You can remove the entire gas door to access better. You can try hooking into the grey or purple wire to see if that will work but the pump is also effected by oil pressure for ignition and that is another issue all it's own. I recommend buying a fuel pump wire relay on Amazon for $20 to use and run it to pump as sole power source to avoid any unwanted pitfalls. See this link. JY Performance 40205G Electric... www.amazon.com/dp/B093DZ1R7J?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I would like to know what you did with the old wiring harness? Im doing the same with a 385 and cant seem to figure out what to do with that. Thank you!
I don't think so with any of the tbi/tpi carb swaps we've done. The 02 sensoers are still hooked up and the computer's pretty basic being OBDI type. The only emissions issues would be in California and other states they do physical inspections and the c4 did not come with a factory carburetor which would be a failed test. I have no engine lights on or any other swaps done so far have either. If you did have a light come on then just pulling the light out under the dash area would turn off any engine lights that came on anyways.
@@djrowe10 great thank you very helpful. i do have one other question. was it very hard to set up the fuel lines and the throtle cables onto the carb? i cant imagine it being very difficult. but i just dont know enough to know if there are any weird problems you might run into.
You can either keep your factory fuel pump or swap it out for a low pressure efi pump like out of 1990s truck or car. If keeping factory pump, for the fuel lines you will need a fuel pressure regulator to step down the factory efi pump from high pressure of 50psi to low pressure for carb of 5-7psi. Holley does sell an ok regulator for this part number (12-880), but Aeromotive sells a very good one with part numbers (13301 or 13220). Amazon has some knock offs too. I have some info about this in other videos too. The sending fuel line can be kept as is by sliding factory's end fitting back and then can push on a high pressure fuel hose and clamps over line's end or you can get a flare tool to make the 37 degree flares ends needed to use -6AN fittings for a pro level set up with all hard fuel lines used for the best seal. Plus the biggest bonus about the factory fuel lines is you have a return fuel line that will come off of the regulator back to the tank to avoid dead heading and prevent vapor lock issues. Good luck with the swap! 👍
For throttle cable I usually just twist in a short loop the cable and use a braket to hold throttle cable and trans cable if using 700r4. Amazon, Summit, Jegs, and Speedway Motors all carry one. I got a cheap one off Amazon as holley knock off part number (amazon search bar part ID- (ASIN : B0B7ZLKMGP). www.amazon.com/Throttle-Carburetors-Aluminum-Adjustable-Anodized/dp/B0B7ZLKMGP/ref=asc_df_B0B7WYZNZV/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=645143846372290782&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015260&hvtargid=pla-2281435179298&psc=1&mcid=b5b6c04c181336ceaf5957855ebd01c5&hvocijid=645143846372290782-B0B7WYZNZV-&hvexpln=73&gad_source=1&th=1
@@djrowe10 hey man thank you sooooooo much! u have been extreamly helpful! im 16 and still learning all of this! i got this back in august 2023 and its been so much fun building and restoring it with my friends until i blew the engine about a month ago. so were swapping it and we decided to go with a carb just to clean up the engine bay and for simplicities sake. next im putting in new rubber bushing for the control arms because they are the stock ones and they are starting to creak and small cracks. im hopefully going to be making high 300s hp!!!! its a clean body and most all original also which is really cool. i got it when i was 15 and learned to drive stick on it. and then in april when i got my licence i got pulled over the same day lmao. really appreciate all the help and i am having a really exiting time with it! thanks again man!
Season change Vroom 🔥
❤
For the intake manifold. Are you using the 113 heads with the D hole exhaust? I'm looking for a intake manifold that will fit the 113 heads.
Not sure what 113 heads are? I did have Brodix IK200 heads on old 383. I have edelbrock performer rpm heads and torker II intake on newest Dart SHP 406 engine. I plan on upgrading to AFR heads this year with 3.54 Yukon gears. My current car has 3.07 gears and runs 12.52 in quarter mile, so 3.54 gears will put me into 11's with AFR 220's.
Does that air filter fit good. I have this same setup just don’t want to buy that air cleaner because it seems like my hood want close of so
Yes, the hood closes with no issue. Maybe I need a video showing the hood closed?
I'm doing a carb conversion on my 84 vette and was told you could use the existing fuel pump in the tank if you ran tach signal to one of the distributor wires to keep the pump running after startup would you know witch wire thanks.
I have never done what you are asking. I only have run 12v key on relay separate to fuel pump to prevent VATS system from shutting off fuel pump. There are 3 wires going to fuel pump harness. Black, purple, and grey that you can see on top of fuel tank under filler cap. You can remove the entire gas door to access better. You can try hooking into the grey or purple wire to see if that will work but the pump is also effected by oil pressure for ignition and that is another issue all it's own. I recommend buying a fuel pump wire relay on Amazon for $20 to use and run it to pump as sole power source to avoid any unwanted pitfalls. See this link. JY Performance 40205G Electric... www.amazon.com/dp/B093DZ1R7J?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
@@djrowe10 that sounds like the best option to ad the relay I'll do that thanks for the advise and the link.
I would like to know what you did with the old wiring harness? Im doing the same with a 385 and cant seem to figure out what to do with that. Thank you!
In the video I showed the small electrical tape wrapped harness that I cut near firewall. Can see at 4:47.
Thank you so much buddy! Nice work!
What intake number did you use
Edelbrock torker II intake has modern part number of 5001 on their website. www.edelbrock.com/torker-ii-intake-manifold-small-block-chevy-5001.html
was there any problems with emissions in the computer sensors? im swaping my engine and thats my main concern right now.
I don't think so with any of the tbi/tpi carb swaps we've done. The 02 sensoers are still hooked up and the computer's pretty basic being OBDI type. The only emissions issues would be in California and other states they do physical inspections and the c4 did not come with a factory carburetor which would be a failed test. I have no engine lights on or any other swaps done so far have either. If you did have a light come on then just pulling the light out under the dash area would turn off any engine lights that came on anyways.
@@djrowe10 great thank you very helpful. i do have one other question. was it very hard to set up the fuel lines and the throtle cables onto the carb? i cant imagine it being very difficult. but i just dont know enough to know if there are any weird problems you might run into.
You can either keep your factory fuel pump or swap it out for a low pressure efi pump like out of 1990s truck or car. If keeping factory pump, for the fuel lines you will need a fuel pressure regulator to step down the factory efi pump from high pressure of 50psi to low pressure for carb of 5-7psi. Holley does sell an ok regulator for this part number (12-880), but Aeromotive sells a very good one with part numbers (13301 or 13220). Amazon has some knock offs too. I have some info about this in other videos too. The sending fuel line can be kept as is by sliding factory's end fitting back and then can push on a high pressure fuel hose and clamps over line's end or you can get a flare tool to make the 37 degree flares ends needed to use -6AN fittings for a pro level set up with all hard fuel lines used for the best seal. Plus the biggest bonus about the factory fuel lines is you have a return fuel line that will come off of the regulator back to the tank to avoid dead heading and prevent vapor lock issues. Good luck with the swap! 👍
For throttle cable I usually just twist in a short loop the cable and use a braket to hold throttle cable and trans cable if using 700r4. Amazon, Summit, Jegs, and Speedway Motors all carry one. I got a cheap one off Amazon as holley knock off part number (amazon search bar part ID- (ASIN : B0B7ZLKMGP).
www.amazon.com/Throttle-Carburetors-Aluminum-Adjustable-Anodized/dp/B0B7ZLKMGP/ref=asc_df_B0B7WYZNZV/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=645143846372290782&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015260&hvtargid=pla-2281435179298&psc=1&mcid=b5b6c04c181336ceaf5957855ebd01c5&hvocijid=645143846372290782-B0B7WYZNZV-&hvexpln=73&gad_source=1&th=1
@@djrowe10 hey man thank you sooooooo much! u have been extreamly helpful! im 16 and still learning all of this! i got this back in august 2023 and its been so much fun building and restoring it with my friends until i blew the engine about a month ago. so were swapping it and we decided to go with a carb just to clean up the engine bay and for simplicities sake. next im putting in new rubber bushing for the control arms because they are the stock ones and they are starting to creak and small cracks. im hopefully going to be making high 300s hp!!!! its a clean body and most all original also which is really cool. i got it when i was 15 and learned to drive stick on it. and then in april when i got my licence i got pulled over the same day lmao. really appreciate all the help and i am having a really exiting time with it! thanks again man!