My dad recently converted his 87 to a carb setup like yours. It turns on and runs if I hold the gas pedal but keeps turning off. Any advice to help it stay running? His set up is almost the same as your except we don’t have the throttle springs but will get it tomorrow.
@@bryanpozo1763 Try to make sure the following is correct: firing order, no vacuum leaks, 7psi of gas to carb, choke may be stuck on or off, make sure the plugs are decent.. If all of those are correct, you may want to troubleshoot the carburetor to make sure it’s not dumping gas or something similar. For that I recommend searching your problem on UA-cam/google.
This is an awesome video. I just got a 85 Vett and I had always planned on going carb and eventually with a stroker kit to a 408 and your video makes the first few steps really simple.
@@210shotz yeah, it’s really not that hard. It’s taking your time doing everything correctly. All you’re doing is removing the old junk, putting the intake and carburetor on adding the fuel pressure regulator to the correct fuel line, hook the throttle cable up.
All that you did to your corvette also can be applied to many other chevy engines all your information is spot on for the list of parts needed. It's probably way more fun to drive now and dependable and can easily handle those long daily commutes to and from work. I know for a fact. I did this to a 99 vortec 350 and dropped it in my 86 gbody and I commute over 50 miles a day for over a year now with no issues. Great source of information for anyone thinking of doing this to their ride
Yes indeed! The swap is practically 99% the same for any other small block chevy made. I tried to mainly cover the info that's not as clear on the internet and make sure the rookies like myself know what to do. For instance, the electric fuel pump, the ignition system, deleting all of the emissions equipment, etc. When I first bought this thing I knew absolutely nothing compared to what I know now. The only thing I wish I would have done differently was buy the an air gap intake instead of the 2101 as it's not the best performance intake. It gets the job done especially for stock application so I can't complain.
I have been wondering how to go about doing this with my C4, there is just so much crap on the motor , every motor I have ever rebuilt had a carb on it and when I started on this one I was blown away by how much smog and bs is on the engine, ty so much for this video it sure helps a lot.
I'm using an l98 in the entire running gear including wheels suspension and Flowmasters from a 90 Corvette into my project truck. The intent was to run fully computerized injection. So it has a ECM that's been modified to delete all of the things like anti-theft etcetera. My plan is to switch to carburetion so I can get this forever project on the road. So it seems logical that all I have to do is get a distributor and a fuel regulator. Have the exact same manifold that you do and my intent was to run an avs2 so there's that coincidence. I was worried about the original electric tank pump but it seems like this is the singular most useful thing at about your video. Well done lots of still pictures and not a lot of wasted time talking I appreciate it
Dang, I almost thought you had figured it out!!! Using the Edelbrock carb. you wont need a fuel regulator. The fuel that flows into the carb can be discharged out the other side of the carb. Since the floats use the same bowl. Unplug the other side and let fuel flow threw the carb and back into the tank. There is more than enough fuel to keep the floats full. Keep it simple. I figured this out 8 yrs ago and a GM 366 that has no place for a mechanical pump on a vehicle with a standard in tank fuel pump.
@@jotegg1276 I’m not an expert man. This is my first classic car and first time dealing with a carburetor since my dirtbike when I was 12 years old 😂. Generally speaking, a lot of people are going to need or should run a fuel pressure regulator, regardless.
I picked up a l98 out of a rear ended corvette. The engine was already out the car when I purchased it and wasn’t able to hear it run. But for $500 dollars I rolled the dice. Got it home slapped on a high rise intake, 650 carb and a HEI distributor and it fired right up. Awesome throttle response. And I will never ever ever have to worry about injectors and all the unnecessary wires. I’m stuffing it in a 82 s10 I picked up for $500 bucks as well😂🤘🏼
@@murdyg7382 I believe that's a hydraulic roller block, which is great. The hydraulic roller cam is far more superior than the hydraulic flat tappet.They have less wear, keep the valves open longer, and run smoother overall. They are very expensive but they're worth it.
Awesome video and great content. I'm planning on putting a dual carb tunnel ram set up on my ' 90 Convertible . I have the tunnel ram and the HEI distributor. . And honestly, i don't care what the haters have to say about it . I can hear the haters crying about it now . A friend of mine , put a dual carb tunnel ram set up on his C4 , without any issues. I subscribed after watching this video .
I did a1991 Corvette. Easy Peasy. I bought it for $950. New tires & transmission. Beautiful black interior. The previous owner had it in four shops. They couldn't fix it. Smoked, fouled out the spark plugs drank gas...... He put everything new in it. Everything.
Make sure you get all of the nickel and dime items such as fittings,hoses, and plugs. You’ll need 10 feet of 3/8 hose, four 3/8 npt barbed fittings, a fuel pressure regulator with return, etc.
@@jimmybags1494 yeah it’s tough. The forums have a bunch of People who have no idea what they’re talking about and often input their personal bias into their “advice”. Generally speaking, these are simple cars and not complex.
Great video. I just did this same swap on a 1990 suburban 350 efi for all the same reasons you mentioned I used pretty much the same items you did. There were some things different however. I couldn't figure out how to get the fuel pump to keep pumping after the initial startup. So I simply bypassed the factory fuel pump regulator on the firewall. There was a factory installed wire for this already there so I hooked it up to the tach side of the HEI.
I have a turbo 400 so no transmission mods required. I installed a completely different dash asy so all the gages are digital including the satellite controlled speedo. Never been happier as throttle response is waaaay better. Milage seems slightly better as well. Have to do more tests to see how much better, but the gas gage does move slower. lol
Thank you for the support! Carb swap is definitely a great way to remedy the smog design of the L98 as carbs with certain intakes will increase power & tq tremendously. You can add a cam as well however it's tough as you have to lift the engine out and or dismantle a lot of the front end to the the job. Even then, the stock heads are only good for around .500 lift and the stock valve springs can't handle a lot of RPM effectively. I recently pulled my motor so I'm doing everything top to bottom.
@E Jacks definitely cleaner than the crossfire!! But this one in question looks more packed with crap than my factory LT1 C4!! But the LT1 is a very clean looking setup straight from the factory.
@@C4VETTELT1 The only extra crap in my case is the AC delete pulley and Smog delete pulley. Eventually I'm gonna run a super small belt only for alternator and power steering pump. I also have not yet removed the AC box which is where I'm going to mount the FPR permanently. It is still way less cramped than any of the factory fuel injection options. It took me 3 hours to remove both heads from the motor by myself.
Very informative. I like your take on how it's your car, and it's your money so it's your business. Lots of people out there do try to push you away from carburetors, and it's ashame. I still prefer a carb over EFI any day.
Hard to say because I never drove it with the TPI. What I can tell you is that the Dual Plane performer still generates decent mid range torque and still builds power to 5500+ rpm. Richard Holdener has a few videos on TPI vs Carb and the dyno chart shows everything. Overall, I'm happy. It's super easy to work on the engine now and ultimately can be customized more to specific wants and needs.
Love the carburetor, took the efi off my ls swap since it was the only way i could afford to run boost, pretty much all my projects have been carb ever since , great video man but how are the pipes already going out on you? Im running a cheaper ebay builder kit and its holding up my heavy ass gt45 turbo just fine its been supporting the weight for the past year now without issue but i agree on the carb swap people really trash carburetors but they really are easier to work on
The pipes shit the bed. I believe they aren’t aluminized or something so they instantly rusted on me. We’ll see what happens when I drop the motor back im. Worst case, the bends are super easy to replicate so I’ll redo them later.
@@IllegalC4 ahh damn that’s crazy man i got no hood and they a bit surface rust but still build boost i leak tested it and still holding up try the cheaper ebay builders kit you might get lucky ive used em on a lot of builds
Good call on getting rid of that money pit TPI. I don’t care for them because they run out of breath at 4000 rpm and chip burning is a lost art in 2023. Carb swap makes better sense if you actually plan on driving the car.
Exactly. I can't have a corvette that revs to 4500rpm and makes maybe 200whp on a good day. Chip burning no thank you and obsolete decrepit 1980s fuel injection no thank you
I am in California and I need all the original TPI parts so it can pass smog someone did this to the Corvette I just got but it's missing stuff will still run but like a dog watching this hoping I can reverse everything lol
Good work friend, a question: how do you get the rpm meter to work on the digital display with the distributor with vacuum advance? How do you connect the old harness to the new one? Can you tell me the colors of the cables?
the only problem they always face on a C4 carb swap is the hood there simply isnt enough clearance for the aircleaner most guys run the buick snorkle to remote filter but theres barely any room
I think i heard you say you used the restrictions on the back of the intake? Or did you just leave them open? Plus, there's a lot of haters on here. The vette im working on now caught on fire from leaky injectors. Never a fire for me with a carb. But most people are right on here... hook hose fom pcv valve to front of carb. 3/8 hose
Hello and thanks for the time spent on video. I'm doing engine swap on my 86 vert. using a Blueprint 396 stroked sb350 (Engine dyno 508hp/ 525 torq) Can't wait to get it doneand driving. I am trying to figure out what to do with the injector harnesses, does anyone know if they can be "unplugged" anywhere? I've leaving the brain box in place. Thanks again!
The only gauges that really get wiggy are all of the fuel related gauges. Since there's no more fuel injectors, the ECU has no idea how much gas the engine is getting. Also, the fuel gauge may get weird as the fuel pressure regulator may inhibit the fuel pressure sensor to give higher readings. My c4 fuel gauge is basically useless.
Hello from Romania 🇷🇴 This is my story, maybe you can help with more information about what i whant to do with my 1993 LT1 ! Long story short, i have a small colecțion of american cars, i love them ! I have a 1993 5.7 LT1 Camaro, a 1997 3.8 Camaro, a 2002 3.8 Pontiac Firebird, and a 2001 Cadillac Deville DTS 4.6 V8, the one with night vision and head up display! If could i would get them all ! 😅 Now, i whant to carb swap my 1993 LT1 Camaro because of the Optispark. I allready have the motor out, transmission, i wil get the rear end out when the engine will be done. I got it out because i will swap it on the 3.8, because that one has romanian papers and can be driven. So, i did my research about this swap on the internet but some swaps get to 4000$, thats alot in romanian money plus shipping. This is a budget build, and what i whant to do with this engine is like this ! Gm performance carbureted intake GMP intake, that has a long part number, a hei distribuitor, wires and spark plugs. And some ground wires dont know how many yet, but thats why i am writing heare. Then i need a water pump, radiator, starter, alternator. Other then that ? I have found what manual valve body i need for the transmission, i think it's a 700r, it has that tv cable and 16 bolt patern of the oil pan. Is a 650 cfm carb good as size ? What kind of carb ? Do i need a coil beside the hei distribuitor to start the car ? What fuel presure regulator should i use ? What aftermarket gauges i need to use for the spedometer, rpm, oil and water temperature ? If you can help me with other information about this swap that i whant to do i would apreciate ! If you have Facebook or Instagram we can speak there more easy ! If not its ok heare to ! GOD BLESS ✝️
I read that these carbs have a fuel starvation issue in hard turns. Has it happened to you? 8128 is the part number for the dual feed fuel line to keep both bowls full during sharp turns.
I had a 1972 Gremlin X 390 with Carter AFB carb That I autocrossed. The Edelbrock Performer IS an AFB. They bough the patterns and copyrights from Carter when fuel injection started being widely used. Never had a fuel starvation problem in turns. Using a dual feel on this carb is pointless. It had a very large passage across the back that feeds both needles from either side. There are good reasons why Chrysler, AMC and Chevrolet used them on performance engines. The Rochester Quadrajet was based on the Carter AVS (Air Valve Secondary) All the people that talk crap about Carbs are ignorant 20 somethings that can't tune a carb on a lawnmower. A properly tuned AFB or Performer will run decades without ever having to look at it. I'm 71 and grew up working on carburetors. A properly adjusted auto choke will start in 1 rev with one pump of the gas pedal. The guys with starting issues are trying to run double pumpers with no chokes on the street in cold weather. Won't work. A properly adjusted AFB is very responsive to throttle. Yes properly running EFI will give you better economy and emissions, but NOT more power. The Crossfire EFI works OK but severely limits power because it was designed for the 305 and has poor airflow. The TPI is great for midrange power but signs off at 4500 rpm. The LT1 has good rpm power and runs pretty damn good BUT it only fits LT1 heads. So if you want over 350 or 375 hp in your C4, carbs are you only choice. LT1 can make about 400 but the nightmare of having to take it 500 miles somewhere to have them burn multiple chips to get it right does not appeal to me. I'm in Columbia SC and nobody in the state works on tuning 1990's fuel injection. That's why the resale value on C4s is low. I've never driven a Crossfire but owned a LT1 and have driven several TPI Corvettes. The LT1 will scoot but any C5 will leave it in the dust. Since C4s are plentiful and cheap around here, I going to find one and hot rod it to about 420 hp so it will be fun. The questions I have are about making the wiring and gage cluster work. I know some features will be lost and I'll have to take the bulb out of the MIL, but how do you make the tach, speedo, oil pressure, Etc. work? I can put on and plumb a manifold and carb in my sleep. I even a have GM cast iron 4 bbl manifold that came off of a marine engine that would give plenty of hood clearance. (they aren't that bad). Its the gage cluster I'm concerned about. How much is run by the ECM? If you go aftermarket EFI how does that interface with the gage cluster. I can handle the easy stuff, its the really technical crap that need advice. And it seems that is beyond 99% of the keyboard geniuses out there.
I still have the stock computer. I did not hook my cruise control cable up to my carb so I cannot say if it works however there's no reason it wouldn't. I'm not sure how great it would work though
How did you get around the engine warn lamp triping with no EGR etc ? I'm right in the middle of comp engine rebuild on my 91 c4. I like the carb look and idea. Also did the mpg change much ? Thanks new subscriber
My warning light screen was broken so Im sure all the lights in the world were on. MPG was absolutely terrible sitting at 8-10 city with the tune it had. Probably could have gotten more but the heads Died after 2 weeks
Hey, im sure this has been answered already but how did you hook up your wiring? Ive got an 86 I'm restoring and gonna be doing a carb swap as well but at the moment its TPI with a 4 speed auto but Im putting a carb and a 5 speed manual in it. All the mechanical stuff im familiar with but when it comes to the electrical system im a little confused lol.
@@lonelylego6172 There’s almost no wiring to deal with. Once you unplug the TPI harness, theres essentially nothing you need from it. You’ll re use the distributor wires but that’s about it. Obviously, you wont touch the oil pressure sensor/switch and temperature sensor/sender.
@@IllegalC4 Ok, cool. Thanks, did you use your stock harness or replace it? The previous owner of my vette thought the best way to “fix” the problem was to start cutting the harness so I have to replace it anyways, didn’t know if it was better to go back stock or any recommendations for upgraded harnesses.
That's awesome. I feel your pain. My tune port was so old and deteriorated. When I was taking it apart I knew that this junk could not go back on. If it were an LT1 I would have probably kept it since it's not a bad setup.
I have an 88 Camaro TPI. I pulled the 305 and I’m going to put a 350 carbed engine in. I left all wiring intact. What wires will I need other the coil from ignition? I want to use original oil psi gauge and temp gauge. After adjust TV cable. Will trans still shift normal? What other wiring do I need to do?
Everything should hook up relatively the same, these motors are extremely universal. I can't tell you much about the shift cable as I have no experience with them. There should be plenty of videos explaining how to adjust it correctly though.
@@miguelmontoya7805 FPR www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-12-881 My friend gave me the distributor so I have no idea what it is. I can tell you that it says Delco Remy and looks identical to the stock one so i'm assuming its a vacuum advance off of another small block chevy.
I unfortunately don't know as I don't have experience with automatics. Your best bet is to search on UA-cam how to set a TV cable and you should be good from there.
Yup there is definitely more options to throw some boost at a carb setup vs the ole tpi. It is possible on the TPI setup but will probably run 3x the price of doing it the carb way.
I have 71 Elcamino. The previous owner installed engine out of a 88 iroc (I think ). Going back to carburetor. There is plate on the block where the fuel pump goes. Can I install a mechanical fuel pump?
I’m converting my 84 now, you didn’t have to run any power to the fuel pump? I’ve cycled the key on mine but it’s not ready to start yet and I hear the pump run for a couple seconds then it shuts off. I’m running an hei distributor also and I don’t understand how the pump will run without the stock distributor
There's no reason to have to screw with the fuel pump if you unplugged/removed the TPI stuff. The key always switches the fuel pump on. Also, what you are hearing is the fuel pump priming. When you turn the key it will only prime and shutoff until you start it. To address the last thing you said about the distributor, there's no correlation between the distributor and fuel pump. They have nothing to do with each other.
@@IllegalC4 the problem I’m having is I get the couple seconds of prime and it fired right up until it runs out of fuel. The pump only primes and doesn’t stay running when the car starts. I’m using the oil pressure sending unit because it’s tied into the relay but there is another wire coming from the ecm that must keep it running. I need to figure out that wire and run ignition power to it
That's not a kick down cable it's a TV cable that lets the transmission know when to shift. Without the throttle valve cable placed correctly you can burn up your transmission.
I'm just curious was the motor bone-stock? Because your Dyno numbers don't add up there's no way you got that much horsepower out of a bone stock l98 and there's no way you had 150 horsepower with a carburetor intake and headers. So just curious what mods were done to the original motor before you got it and how big of a cam you put in when you swapped to the carburetor?
The dyno graph shown was a bare engine in a dyno cell with no accessories, cold air, headers, and a tune. Chevy put the l98 out at 230 crank hp with all accessories/smog equipment which simulates world real numbers. As for the major hp gain, yes that it true. Remember, it’s 150 hp on an engine with no accessories in a controlled environment. On the street it will probably be closer to half of that number. If you don’t believe me, watch Richard Holdenrs TPI videos on YT. Also, my motor was bone stock in this video and I did not change any internals. I recently pulled my motor and sent it to be rebuilt as a 383. I’d imagine the new cam will be around 230duration, 500 lift, and 110LSA.
Also I believe you may have misinterpreted some information. The chart in the video shows the TPI peaking at 330hp and the carburetor setup peaking around 360hp. With that being said, the 30peak hp isn’t what’s the most beneficial. What’s most beneficial is how the carb setup keeps building power out into higher RPMs. So yes it makes 30 more at peak but the power band is nearly doubled in HP.
Місяць тому+1
What happens to the gauges when you go with a carburetor do they still act as normal?
I also have an 86 Manual trans that was my grandfathers. unfortunately the motor has expired and do not wanna reinstall all the tpi stuff like you. I have a 350 with aluminum heads being built and am switching to a carb everything you posted is what I’ve also seen on some forums about using stock pump and a regulator and hei distributor. My question is what did you do with the wiring harness with everything that’s not being used anymore? Just cut it all out? Thanks for any help
Hey, im doing a similar swap. What did you do for the upper radiator hose. Do u know the part number? As well as temperature sensors for the fan switch. Thank you
It's definitely sucking every possible molecule of hot air possible. By all means, it is killing HP and MPG. This setup was definitely a short term/temp setup. I'm ordering a cowl soon and I'll be building a custom CAI when I get my motor back.
I’m having a hard time on my 88 l98 with aluminum heads(factory) the problem I’m running into is my 2 center bolts for my intake are at a slight angle. I know the Vortec heads have this issue as well now. Can I take the intake style for the Vortec and put it on my l98 without any troubles. It’s going on a 1984 Gmc. I have a old school pro comp high rise on it and want to go to a mid rise dual plane intake but I’m running into the boot angle problems. Any help would be awesome thanks.
This is a neat idea but I will never do this to my car. Why would I ever replaced tuned port injection with a carburetor?! I would probably understand why you would if your vette is cross fire injected but even then, cross fire injection was supposed to give better performance and be more economical than a regular carburetor.
It is all up to the owner and their goals. This is my project car so I value performance over efficiency/OEM form. A carb and good intake will add way more power and tuneability to a c4 with Xfire or TPI. If you're somebody who dailys or doesn't care about performance, there's nothing wrong with staying stock form. At the end of the day, there's a reason people carb swap/go efi instead of puting a TPI or LT1 on their small block project car. They always go RPM performer and a 750 of some sort.
I used another GM HEI Distributor but I believe it died on me the last day I had it. Definitely don’t cheap out on your ignition as it can really hurt your motor or fail all together.
@@IllegalC4 awesome something shuts off my fuel injectors randomly. I already did the vats bypass and still happens so this will kill that gremlin. My winter project.
If you have the L98 Tune Port Injection, you will be fine as it's the small block chevy architecture. If you have the LT1, you will have to get an LT1 specific intake manifold. The LT1 is not the same architecture as a small block chevy.
With everything done in this video, maybe 280whp-300whp since its a manual. I dont know what a stock C4 dynos So Im going off the fact that it might be making close to 340 crank hp. The configuration in this video is more of a torque setup than a HP setup so Im sure the torque is Decent too. Never drove it enough to confidently speak on it
@@IllegalC4 what parts for that number? I’ve seen on some forums L98 6 speed cars making 370whp from intake, headers, full exhaust, decent cam, and I believe some other bolt ons. Do you have an insta?
I unfortunately do not have experience tuning carbs. There's plenty of videos/articles on how to do it. Generally speaking, if you have a pretty normal build, the carb will work out the box as is without running terribly lean or rich.
Didn't touch anything. You can unplug practically everything and won't have much trouble. The only thing the ECM might trip about is the oil pressure switch but I haven't screwed with that. I'm gonna be upgrading to an MSD Ign system soon tho as I'm sure the stock system sucks.
@@IllegalC4so you just disconnected the fuel injection wiring from the engine and tucked away the harnesses? You left the connections plugged on the computer?
@@dvscustoms I work on TPI and LT cars exclusively, you’d think otherwise in my line of work. Just sold my 1991 6sp Corvette for $26k with 55k miles on it.
@@dvscustomsyea for one with a million problems rust all over it paint fucked up and 150,000 miles on the engine and still worth more than alot of normal used cars on marketplace dipshit
Stock waterpump. There's a long neck and short neck version so be sure if you order a replacement that you have the correct one. Also, there is a heater core hose line you'll have to put a plug in on the water pump if you are removing that equipment.
Not trying to be a hater. I am not like you. I am old. I love fuel injection vs carberators. I am old enough to be your grandpa. Carberators belong on the bottom of the ocean. Fuel injection on these old cars have fuel injection that is so far superior to any carberator.
Feel free to ask anything. Any questions, more pictures, advice, post it below!
Is the manual transmission in your car the Doug nash
@@shanemcclaran3012 yes, 4+3. Not a bad trans at all however my OD is not turning on at the moment.
My dad recently converted his 87 to a carb setup like yours. It turns on and runs if I hold the gas pedal but keeps turning off. Any advice to help it stay running? His set up is almost the same as your except we don’t have the throttle springs but will get it tomorrow.
@@bryanpozo1763 Try to make sure the following is correct: firing order, no vacuum leaks, 7psi of gas to carb, choke may be stuck on or off, make sure the plugs are decent.. If all of those are correct, you may want to troubleshoot the carburetor to make sure it’s not dumping gas or something similar. For that I recommend searching your problem on UA-cam/google.
😢 the links in the description dont work
This is an awesome video. I just got a 85 Vett and I had always planned on going carb and eventually with a stroker kit to a 408 and your video makes the first few steps really simple.
@@210shotz yeah, it’s really not that hard. It’s taking your time doing everything correctly. All you’re doing is removing the old junk, putting the intake and carburetor on adding the fuel pressure regulator to the correct fuel line, hook the throttle cable up.
Thanks for this. Corvette owners LOVE talking outta their asses on forums, good information is so hard to come by.
All that you did to your corvette also can be applied to many other chevy engines all your information is spot on for the list of parts needed. It's probably way more fun to drive now and dependable and can easily handle those long daily commutes to and from work. I know for a fact. I did this to a 99 vortec 350 and dropped it in my 86 gbody and I commute over 50 miles a day for over a year now with no issues. Great source of information for anyone thinking of doing this to their ride
Yes indeed! The swap is practically 99% the same for any other small block chevy made. I tried to mainly cover the info that's not as clear on the internet and make sure the rookies like myself know what to do. For instance, the electric fuel pump, the ignition system, deleting all of the emissions equipment, etc. When I first bought this thing I knew absolutely nothing compared to what I know now. The only thing I wish I would have done differently was buy the an air gap intake instead of the 2101 as it's not the best performance intake. It gets the job done especially for stock application so I can't complain.
I have been wondering how to go about doing this with my C4, there is just so much crap on the motor , every motor I have ever rebuilt had a carb on it and when I started on this one I was blown away by how much smog and bs is on the engine, ty so much for this video it sure helps a lot.
I'm using an l98 in the entire running gear including wheels suspension and Flowmasters from a 90 Corvette into my project truck. The intent was to run fully computerized injection. So it has a ECM that's been modified to delete all of the things like anti-theft etcetera. My plan is to switch to carburetion so I can get this forever project on the road. So it seems logical that all I have to do is get a distributor and a fuel regulator. Have the exact same manifold that you do and my intent was to run an avs2 so there's that coincidence. I was worried about the original electric tank pump but it seems like this is the singular most useful thing at about your video. Well done lots of still pictures and not a lot of wasted time talking I appreciate it
Even if the oem fuel pump died or wasn’t functioning properly, its so easy to add an inline fuel pump.
Dang, I almost thought you had figured it out!!! Using the Edelbrock carb. you wont need a fuel regulator. The fuel that flows into the carb can be discharged out the other side of the carb. Since the floats use the same bowl. Unplug the other side and let fuel flow threw the carb and back into the tank. There is more than enough fuel to keep the floats full. Keep it simple. I figured this out 8 yrs ago and a GM 366 that has no place for a mechanical pump on a vehicle with a standard in tank fuel pump.
@@jotegg1276 I’m not an expert man. This is my first classic car and first time dealing with a carburetor since my dirtbike when I was 12 years old 😂.
Generally speaking, a lot of people are going to need or should run a fuel pressure regulator, regardless.
I picked up a l98 out of a rear ended corvette. The engine was already out the car when I purchased it and wasn’t able to hear it run. But for $500 dollars I rolled the dice. Got it home slapped on a high rise intake, 650 carb and a HEI distributor and it fired right up. Awesome throttle response. And I will never ever ever have to worry about injectors and all the unnecessary wires. I’m stuffing it in a 82 s10 I picked up for $500 bucks as well😂🤘🏼
Hell yeah that's awesome. Do you know if its a flat tappet cam or roller cam?
@@IllegalC4 I have no clue. I can tell you it was in a 1989 corvette. Idk if that helps
@@murdyg7382 I believe that's a hydraulic roller block, which is great. The hydraulic roller cam is far more superior than the hydraulic flat tappet.They have less wear, keep the valves open longer, and run smoother overall. They are very expensive but they're worth it.
Awesome video and great content.
I'm planning on putting a dual carb tunnel ram set up on my ' 90 Convertible . I have the tunnel ram and the HEI distributor. .
And honestly, i don't care what the haters have to say about it . I can hear the haters crying about it now .
A friend of mine , put a dual carb tunnel ram set up on his C4 , without any issues. I subscribed after watching this video .
I did a1991 Corvette. Easy Peasy.
I bought it for $950. New tires & transmission. Beautiful black interior.
The previous owner had it in four shops.
They couldn't fix it. Smoked, fouled out the spark plugs drank gas......
He put everything new in it. Everything.
Awesome man. Take car of it and these things will last a life time.
@@IllegalC4 ....I have a beautiful '94 & an '06. The wife drives the C6.
@@glennspears839 Awesome man. I love the C6. Its really the C4/C5 put together. Love the LS2 in it as well.
Good info. I am thinking of pulling the L98 and 700R4 from my 89 Vette to put into my 80 Trans Am. A carb conversion would be a must.
Great video. Been thinking about a t bucket and the wiring nightmare. Thanks man !
Best video I could find thanks only difference is I have a Holley carb gonna install this weekend
Hell yeah that's awesome. Just reference the manual for what ports are what and you're good to go.
I just got a carb and intake to convert my crossfire c4 tonight lmao. This was a very helpful video thank you sm
Hell yeah man that’s awesome! Post videos when it’s up id love to see it.
Make sure you get all of the nickel and dime items such as fittings,hoses, and plugs. You’ll need 10 feet of 3/8 hose, four 3/8 npt barbed fittings, a fuel pressure regulator with return, etc.
Make a video like this one! I plan on doing the same to my crossfire and there is so much conflicting info on the godforsaken corvette forums
@@jimmybags1494 yeah it’s tough. The forums have a bunch of People who have no idea what they’re talking about and often input their personal bias into their “advice”. Generally speaking, these are simple cars and not complex.
Great video.
I just did this same swap on a 1990 suburban 350 efi
for all the same reasons you mentioned I used pretty much the same items you did.
There were some things different however.
I couldn't figure out how to get the fuel pump to keep pumping after the initial startup. So I simply bypassed the factory fuel pump regulator on the firewall. There was a factory installed wire for this already there so I hooked it up to the tach side of the HEI.
I have a turbo 400 so no transmission mods required.
I installed a completely different dash asy so all the gages are digital including the satellite controlled speedo. Never been happier as throttle response is waaaay better. Milage seems slightly better as well.
Have to do more tests to see how much better, but the gas gage does move slower. lol
Plan on switching my Camaros TPI to carb! Thanks man!
I appreciate this video! Seems like a great solution to get some more top end from these l98’s. Probably not a bad idea to throw a cam in it as well
Thank you for the support! Carb swap is definitely a great way to remedy the smog design of the L98 as carbs with certain intakes will increase power & tq tremendously. You can add a cam as well however it's tough as you have to lift the engine out and or dismantle a lot of the front end to the the job. Even then, the stock heads are only good for around .500 lift and the stock valve springs can't handle a lot of RPM effectively. I recently pulled my motor so I'm doing everything top to bottom.
I love how much cleaner the engine bay looks.
And it's only going to get cleaner too once I get a couple new things.
That engine bay does not look cleaner than the TPI set up!!!🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@C4VETTELT1 Definitely cleaner than my crossfire. No smog garbage, no AC. You can actually see the engine.
@E Jacks definitely cleaner than the crossfire!! But this one in question looks more packed with crap than my factory LT1 C4!! But the LT1 is a very clean looking setup straight from the factory.
@@C4VETTELT1 The only extra crap in my case is the AC delete pulley and Smog delete pulley. Eventually I'm gonna run a super small belt only for alternator and power steering pump. I also have not yet removed the AC box which is where I'm going to mount the FPR permanently. It is still way less cramped than any of the factory fuel injection options. It took me 3 hours to remove both heads from the motor by myself.
Very informative. I like your take on how it's your car, and it's your money so it's your business. Lots of people out there do try to push you away from carburetors, and it's ashame. I still prefer a carb over EFI any day.
Exactly. Both are EFI & Carb are capable of producing a lot of power and being reliable but it’s all to each persons set of goals.
Love this, I mean really fucking love this. Nice job
Thank you 👍🏼
very nice truly enjoyed
Thanks for the info hope it's still running good !
Yo perfect vid!!! Gonna convert my crossfire to carb.
Hell yeah man. Anything you need, let me know. Time to cleanse the L83 of that cease fire injection lol
@@IllegalC4 what is your insta
@@solo_dolo6553 I only have a personal one at the moment. So for now, I don’t have one.
@@solo_dolo6553 Just made an IG. @Illegal_C4
Great video and information
Keep up the content
Great Job Man!Doing this as we speak.What did you do with you heater hoses?
I threw out practically everything. You can cover up the heater core inlet/outlet and then put a threaded plug in the water pump.
great video just found it want to do mine now ....
Glad I was able to help!
Love the video! The only question I have is what the real power difference was in the end, did it pick up power or stay relatively the same?
Hard to say because I never drove it with the TPI. What I can tell you is that the Dual Plane performer still generates decent mid range torque and still builds power to 5500+ rpm. Richard Holdener has a few videos on TPI vs Carb and the dyno chart shows everything. Overall, I'm happy. It's super easy to work on the engine now and ultimately can be customized more to specific wants and needs.
Love the carburetor, took the efi off my ls swap since it was the only way i could afford to run boost, pretty much all my projects have been carb ever since , great video man but how are the pipes already going out on you? Im running a cheaper ebay builder kit and its holding up my heavy ass gt45 turbo just fine its been supporting the weight for the past year now without issue but i agree on the carb swap people really trash carburetors but they really are easier to work on
The pipes shit the bed. I believe they aren’t aluminized or something so they instantly rusted on me. We’ll see what happens when I drop the motor back im. Worst case, the bends are super easy to replicate so I’ll redo them later.
@@IllegalC4 ahh damn that’s crazy man i got no hood and they a bit surface rust but still build boost i leak tested it and still holding up try the cheaper ebay builders kit you might get lucky ive used em on a lot of builds
Good call on getting rid of that money pit TPI. I don’t care for them because they run out of breath at 4000 rpm and chip burning is a lost art in 2023. Carb swap makes better sense if you actually plan on driving the car.
Exactly. I can't have a corvette that revs to 4500rpm and makes maybe 200whp on a good day. Chip burning no thank you and obsolete decrepit 1980s fuel injection no thank you
Gonna carb an 87 L98 that came out of a corvette and gonna put in an 87 Monte Carlo.
I did a carb swap on my 84 vette. Ie cross fire. It was much better
Thanks for this great video!! Answers a lot of my questions and concerns.
Hell yeah I'm glad to hear that. If anything arises in the future, feel free to ask here.
Ty, son.
I am in California and I need all the original TPI parts so it can pass smog someone did this to the Corvette I just got but it's missing stuff will still run but like a dog watching this hoping I can reverse everything lol
Good work friend, a question: how do you get the rpm meter to work on the digital display with the distributor with vacuum advance? How do you connect the old harness to the new one? Can you tell me the colors of the cables?
I used a GM HEI distributor which was direct plug and play. I don't have the colors of the wires on hand so you may have to reference google.
the only problem they always face on a C4 carb swap is the hood there simply isnt enough clearance for the aircleaner most guys run the buick snorkle to remote filter but theres barely any room
I think i heard you say you used the restrictions on the back of the intake? Or did you just leave them open?
Plus, there's a lot of haters on here. The vette im working on now caught on fire from leaky injectors. Never a fire for me with a carb. But most people are right on here... hook hose fom pcv valve to front of carb. 3/8 hose
Hello and thanks for the time spent on video. I'm doing engine swap on my 86 vert. using a Blueprint 396 stroked sb350 (Engine dyno 508hp/ 525 torq) Can't wait to get it doneand driving. I am trying to figure out what to do with the injector harnesses, does anyone know if they can be "unplugged" anywhere? I've leaving the brain box in place. Thanks again!
How does the removal of the sensors you mentioned affect your gauge function on your dash? What about the OD engagement on your 4+3?
The only gauges that really get wiggy are all of the fuel related gauges. Since there's no more fuel injectors, the ECU has no idea how much gas the engine is getting. Also, the fuel gauge may get weird as the fuel pressure regulator may inhibit the fuel pressure sensor to give higher readings. My c4 fuel gauge is basically useless.
@@IllegalC4what would be the solution to that?
Hello from Romania 🇷🇴
This is my story, maybe you can help with more information about what i whant to do with my 1993 LT1 !
Long story short, i have a small colecțion of american cars, i love them !
I have a 1993 5.7 LT1 Camaro, a 1997 3.8 Camaro, a 2002 3.8 Pontiac Firebird, and a 2001 Cadillac Deville DTS 4.6 V8, the one with night vision and head up display! If could i would get them all ! 😅
Now, i whant to carb swap my 1993 LT1 Camaro because of the Optispark. I allready have the motor out, transmission, i wil get the rear end out when the engine will be done.
I got it out because i will swap it on the 3.8, because that one has romanian papers and can be driven.
So, i did my research about this swap on the internet but some swaps get to 4000$, thats alot in romanian money plus shipping.
This is a budget build, and what i whant to do with this engine is like this !
Gm performance carbureted intake GMP intake, that has a long part number, a hei distribuitor, wires and spark plugs. And some ground wires dont know how many yet, but thats why i am writing heare.
Then i need a water pump, radiator, starter, alternator.
Other then that ?
I have found what manual valve body i need for the transmission, i think it's a 700r, it has that tv cable and 16 bolt patern of the oil pan.
Is a 650 cfm carb good as size ?
What kind of carb ?
Do i need a coil beside the hei distribuitor to start the car ?
What fuel presure regulator should i use ?
What aftermarket gauges i need to use for the spedometer, rpm, oil and water temperature ?
If you can help me with other information about this swap that i whant to do i would apreciate !
If you have Facebook or Instagram we can speak there more easy ! If not its ok heare to !
GOD BLESS ✝️
I read that these carbs have a fuel starvation issue in hard turns. Has it happened to you? 8128 is the part number for the dual feed fuel line to keep both bowls full during sharp turns.
I haven’t beaten on it yet but I could see that as a possibility. I don’t plan on driving the car like a madman much so it’s not a concern of mine.
I had a 1972 Gremlin X 390 with Carter AFB carb That I autocrossed. The Edelbrock Performer IS an AFB. They bough the patterns and copyrights from Carter when fuel injection started being widely used. Never had a fuel starvation problem in turns. Using a dual feel on this carb is pointless. It had a very large passage across the back that feeds both needles from either side. There are good reasons why Chrysler, AMC and Chevrolet used them on performance engines. The Rochester Quadrajet was based on the Carter AVS (Air Valve Secondary)
All the people that talk crap about Carbs are ignorant 20 somethings that can't tune a carb on a lawnmower. A properly tuned AFB or Performer will run decades without ever having to look at it. I'm 71 and grew up working on carburetors. A properly adjusted auto choke will start in 1 rev with one pump of the gas pedal. The guys with starting issues are trying to run double pumpers with no chokes on the street in cold weather. Won't work. A properly adjusted AFB is very responsive to throttle. Yes properly running EFI will give you better economy and emissions, but NOT more power. The Crossfire EFI works OK but severely limits power because it was designed for the 305 and has poor airflow. The TPI is great for midrange power but signs off at 4500 rpm. The LT1 has good rpm power and runs pretty damn good BUT it only fits LT1 heads. So if you want over 350 or 375 hp in your C4, carbs are you only choice. LT1 can make about 400 but the nightmare of having to take it 500 miles somewhere to have them burn multiple chips to get it right does not appeal to me. I'm in Columbia SC and nobody in the state works on tuning 1990's fuel injection. That's why the resale value on C4s is low. I've never driven a Crossfire but owned a LT1 and have driven several TPI Corvettes. The LT1 will scoot but any C5 will leave it in the dust.
Since C4s are plentiful and cheap around here, I going to find one and hot rod it to about 420 hp so it will be fun. The questions I have are about making the wiring and gage cluster work. I know some features will be lost and I'll have to take the bulb out of the MIL, but how do you make the tach, speedo, oil pressure, Etc. work? I can put on and plumb a manifold and carb in my sleep. I even a have GM cast iron 4 bbl manifold that came off of a marine engine that would give plenty of hood clearance. (they aren't that bad). Its the gage cluster I'm concerned about. How much is run by the ECM? If you go aftermarket EFI how does that interface with the gage cluster. I can handle the easy stuff, its the really technical crap that need advice. And it seems that is beyond 99% of the keyboard geniuses out there.
Wondering what distributor you used? What wires you were able to eliminate and how
It's a basic GM HEI distributor I got off my friend from another car. It was a direct plug n play setup.
Thanks bro my iroc keeps shutting off while revving but it can idle beautifully for hours but it acts up so carb it is
How about a lt-1 conversation? To get rid of the opti spark!
If you're only looking to get rid of the opti spark, there's plenty of videos out there for the conversion.
hey was wondering how to hook uo a manual oil gauge i think i got the coolant and volts understood just the oil need figured out in my head
Did you ditch the ecm? I would like to keep cruise control. does your cruise still work?
I still have the stock computer. I did not hook my cruise control cable up to my carb so I cannot say if it works however there's no reason it wouldn't. I'm not sure how great it would work though
So you used a 2021 intake?
Thanks for the great video just wondering does the dashboard cluster still work after go to carburetor . Or do have to change the all the gauges
Everything is fine except the fuel related info.
How did you get around the engine warn lamp triping with no EGR etc ?
I'm right in the middle of comp engine rebuild on my 91 c4.
I like the carb look and idea.
Also did the mpg change much ?
Thanks new subscriber
My warning light screen was broken so Im sure all the lights in the world were on. MPG was absolutely terrible sitting at 8-10 city with the tune it had. Probably could have gotten more but the heads
Died after 2 weeks
@IllegalC4 thanks
Shame it died, town mpg was the same as my Hummer then lol.
Maybe I'll have to stick with my TPI
Cheers Rusty
Hey, im sure this has been answered already but how did you hook up your wiring? Ive got an 86 I'm restoring and gonna be doing a carb swap as well but at the moment its TPI with a 4 speed auto but Im putting a carb and a 5 speed manual in it. All the mechanical stuff im familiar with but when it comes to the electrical system im a little confused lol.
@@lonelylego6172 There’s almost no wiring to deal with. Once you unplug the TPI harness, theres essentially nothing you need from it. You’ll re use the distributor wires but that’s about it. Obviously, you wont touch the oil pressure sensor/switch and temperature sensor/sender.
@@IllegalC4 Ok, cool. Thanks, did you use your stock harness or replace it? The previous owner of my vette thought the best way to “fix” the problem was to start cutting the harness so I have to replace it anyways, didn’t know if it was better to go back stock or any recommendations for upgraded harnesses.
How do you like the edlebrock ?
Just did this to my 86 iroc z that has a zz4 350 crate motor sat for 20 years the tpi was a headache to work on so i switched to a carb
That's awesome. I feel your pain. My tune port was so old and deteriorated. When I was taking it apart I knew that this junk could not go back on. If it were an LT1 I would have probably kept it since it's not a bad setup.
I have an 88 Camaro TPI. I pulled the 305 and I’m going to put a 350 carbed engine in. I left all wiring intact. What wires will I need other the coil from ignition? I want to use original oil psi gauge and temp gauge. After adjust TV cable. Will trans still shift normal? What other wiring do I need to do?
Everything should hook up relatively the same, these motors are extremely universal. I can't tell you much about the shift cable as I have no experience with them. There should be plenty of videos explaining how to adjust it correctly though.
Good stuff man!!! Does all of your gauges still work?
All stock gauges work perfect. Fuel gauge is always trippin though with the fuel pressure regulator and lack of injectors.
@@IllegalC4 great man I am really considering this. I have a C3 and C4 and man the C3 starts and run on pump everytime
@@Djpip850 Same here. I just give the gas one push on cold starts and it Fires right up.
What’s the part number on the fuel regulator and distributor?
@@miguelmontoya7805 FPR www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-12-881
My friend gave me the distributor so I have no idea what it is. I can tell you that it says Delco Remy and looks identical to the stock one so i'm assuming its a vacuum advance off of another small block chevy.
Heads have to be redone to work with carb intake too? Thats what im being told
I’m currently swapping an 85 L98 into my 84. I’m gonna order the kit you ordered and an hei distributor. I need to know how to set the TV cable
I unfortunately don't know as I don't have experience with automatics. Your best bet is to search on UA-cam how to set a TV cable and you should be good from there.
I just came across this post. I want to do the same thing because i want to run a turbo and don't think tpi ia the way to go.
Yup there is definitely more options to throw some boost at a carb setup vs the ole tpi. It is possible on the TPI setup but will probably run 3x the price of doing it the carb way.
@@IllegalC4 I think I might go with a used sniper or sniper clone.
I put a carburetor on it. Problem solved.
I want to do something similar with A Mitsubishi 4G63 Out of a lancer or eclipse or eagle talon. So I don't have to worry about computers,
I have 71 Elcamino. The previous owner installed engine out of a 88 iroc (I think ). Going back to carburetor. There is plate on the block where the fuel pump goes. Can I install a mechanical fuel pump?
@@samh4333 I personally don’t know much about mechanical fuel pumps so for that you’re gonna have to turn to Facebook or Google
Thanks for the response. You had to have heads redone or new ones? I’m being told that old heads will not work with a carburetor and manifold.
Do you get a check engine light or does ECM still work as it should after deleting things ? Sorry for the beginner question
What is your opinion on adding a Holley sniper system? 85 base model, pretty much bone stock
I’m converting my 84 now, you didn’t have to run any power to the fuel pump? I’ve cycled the key on mine but it’s not ready to start yet and I hear the pump run for a couple seconds then it shuts off. I’m running an hei distributor also and I don’t understand how the pump will run without the stock distributor
There's no reason to have to screw with the fuel pump if you unplugged/removed the TPI stuff. The key always switches the fuel pump on. Also, what you are hearing is the fuel pump priming. When you turn the key it will only prime and shutoff until you start it.
To address the last thing you said about the distributor, there's no correlation between the distributor and fuel pump. They have nothing to do with each other.
@@IllegalC4 the problem I’m having is I get the couple seconds of prime and it fired right up until it runs out of fuel. The pump only primes and doesn’t stay running when the car starts. I’m using the oil pressure sending unit because it’s tied into the relay but there is another wire coming from the ecm that must keep it running. I need to figure out that wire and run ignition power to it
Did you ever figure it out?
That's not a kick down cable it's a TV cable that lets the transmission know when to shift. Without the throttle valve cable placed correctly you can burn up your transmission.
I don't have either as I have a manual trans.
I'm just curious was the motor bone-stock? Because your Dyno numbers don't add up there's no way you got that much horsepower out of a bone stock l98 and there's no way you had 150 horsepower with a carburetor intake and headers. So just curious what mods were done to the original motor before you got it and how big of a cam you put in when you swapped to the carburetor?
The dyno graph shown was a bare engine in a dyno cell with no accessories, cold air, headers, and a tune. Chevy put the l98 out at 230 crank hp with all accessories/smog equipment which simulates world real numbers. As for the major hp gain, yes that it true. Remember, it’s 150 hp on an engine with no accessories in a controlled environment. On the street it will probably be closer to half of that number. If you don’t believe me, watch Richard Holdenrs TPI videos on YT.
Also, my motor was bone stock in this video and I did not change any internals. I recently pulled my motor and sent it to be rebuilt as a 383. I’d imagine the new cam will be around 230duration, 500 lift, and 110LSA.
Also I believe you may have misinterpreted some information. The chart in the video shows the TPI peaking at 330hp and the carburetor setup peaking around 360hp. With that being said, the 30peak hp isn’t what’s the most beneficial. What’s most beneficial is how the carb setup keeps building power out into higher RPMs. So yes it makes 30 more at peak but the power band is nearly doubled in HP.
What happens to the gauges when you go with a carburetor do they still act as normal?
Everything works except the Fuel Economy related gauges. Also the fuel gauge will misread severely as I ran out of gas 3 times straight.
Mine is a 91 i would like to do it.
I also have an 86 Manual trans that was my grandfathers. unfortunately the motor has expired and do not wanna reinstall all the tpi stuff like you. I have a 350 with aluminum heads being built and am switching to a carb everything you posted is what I’ve also seen on some forums about using stock pump and a regulator and hei distributor. My question is what did you do with the wiring harness with everything that’s not being used anymore? Just cut it all out? Thanks for any help
I zip tied everything and stashed it out of the way. Will end up removing the harness at a later date.
@IllegalC4 10/4 thanks
Hey, im doing a similar swap. What did you do for the upper radiator hose. Do u know the part number? As well as temperature sensors for the fan switch. Thank you
Without cutting the hood, you're losing your cold air intake. But to each, their own.
It's definitely sucking every possible molecule of hot air possible. By all means, it is killing HP and MPG. This setup was definitely a short term/temp setup. I'm ordering a cowl soon and I'll be building a custom CAI when I get my motor back.
@IllegalC4 where can you get cowl hood for c4?
Need to know if there is a regulator on the return fuel line? Thanks
I believe the return line goes directly back to the tank with nothing between it.
Will this work with a 84 Vette Cross Fire
Yes. Certain parts may be in different areas but it's the same concept.
Bro does this work on vortec motors please let me know I can’t find a lot of information on it
Its similar but not the same. They sell vortech intakes that you can slap a carb onto.
Hey what's the part number for that upper radiator hose? I could see it on the actual hose, but it was not very clear. Thanks.
Gates 22253
Question for you do all the factory gauges still work?
So you did not remove the ecm or wiring harness?
Everything is still there but tucked away. Will remove all that stuff eventually
@IllegalC4 yeah I wonder if you took out the ecm and wires if you would have to mess with the fuel pump.
I’m having a hard time on my 88 l98 with aluminum heads(factory) the problem I’m running into is my 2 center bolts for my intake are at a slight angle. I know the Vortec heads have this issue as well now. Can I take the intake style for the Vortec and put it on my l98 without any troubles. It’s going on a 1984 Gmc. I have a old school pro comp high rise on it and want to go to a mid rise dual plane intake but I’m running into the boot angle problems. Any help would be awesome thanks.
What about coil /distributor wiring?
Which coolant hose did you install?
This is a neat idea but I will never do this to my car. Why would I ever replaced tuned port injection with a carburetor?! I would probably understand why you would if your vette is cross fire injected but even then, cross fire injection was supposed to give better performance and be more economical than a regular carburetor.
It is all up to the owner and their goals. This is my project car so I value performance over efficiency/OEM form. A carb and good intake will add way more power and tuneability to a c4 with Xfire or TPI. If you're somebody who dailys or doesn't care about performance, there's nothing wrong with staying stock form. At the end of the day, there's a reason people carb swap/go efi instead of puting a TPI or LT1 on their small block project car. They always go RPM performer and a 750 of some sort.
You're carb and intake kit numbers is the same as the thermostat. Could you fix that part number?
TPI had crummy higher-RPM power, yes?
The TPI would die at 4400rpm which makes the 5500rpm red line useless. There's dyno charts out there that show.
the long tube runners are great for low rpm torque but don't breathe well at higher rpms
What distributor did you get? I have been looking on eBay and I don’t know if I should go with a cheap or expensive one
I used another GM HEI Distributor but I believe it died on me the last day I had it. Definitely don’t cheap out on your ignition as it can really hurt your motor or fail all together.
Did you cut off the fuel injector plugs or leave them? What changes if any to the computer?
All I did was disconnect the harness and stuck it off to the side. I did absolutely nothing to any other wiring. Everything works normally.
@@IllegalC4 awesome something shuts off my fuel injectors randomly. I already did the vats bypass and still happens so this will kill that gremlin. My winter project.
will this work on my 87? i heard holes dont line up? if you know otherwise please point me in a direction soooooo done with tpi
If you have the L98 Tune Port Injection, you will be fine as it's the small block chevy architecture. If you have the LT1, you will have to get an LT1 specific intake manifold. The LT1 is not the same architecture as a small block chevy.
💎💎💎💎💎💎💎💎💎💎💎
How much whp do you think you have? Looking at getting a C4
With everything done in this video, maybe 280whp-300whp since its a manual. I dont know what a stock C4 dynos So Im going off the fact that it might be making close to 340 crank hp. The configuration in this video is more of a torque setup than a HP setup so Im sure the torque is Decent too. Never drove it enough to confidently speak on it
@@IllegalC4 what parts for that number? I’ve seen on some forums L98 6 speed cars making 370whp from intake, headers, full exhaust, decent cam, and I believe some other bolt ons. Do you have an insta?
@@TheJMan1K my Insta is the same as yt.
Did you have to re-wire your fuel pump to keep it running after it is started?
@@jacobamberdaniels1603 nope. When you turn the key it always has power.
@@IllegalC4 thank you.
How easy was it to tune? Ive heard you need to be an expert and might take some days
I unfortunately do not have experience tuning carbs. There's plenty of videos/articles on how to do it. Generally speaking, if you have a pretty normal build, the carb will work out the box as is without running terribly lean or rich.
Anything done to the ecm like take it out or just leave it in.
Didn't touch anything. You can unplug practically everything and won't have much trouble. The only thing the ECM might trip about is the oil pressure switch but I haven't screwed with that. I'm gonna be upgrading to an MSD Ign system soon tho as I'm sure the stock system sucks.
@@IllegalC4so you just disconnected the fuel injection wiring from the engine and tucked away the harnesses? You left the connections plugged on the computer?
@@Trebor-gw8lt Yes, unplugged and tucked away. I pulled my motor recently and I'm going to fully remove all wiring soon.
How much power you lose?
tpis intake /bbk throttle body for sale..lol
I just finished converting my 84 to carbureted and now my torque converter doesn't work. Did this happen to anyone else?
@@jacobamberdaniels1603 im not sure theres a correlation between fuel injection and your tq converter not working.
Unfortunate that the car only had 60k on it for this. On the bright side, this helps raise the value of nice TPI cars.
"nice TPI cars" sitting in the trailer parks for $2500... 😂
@@dvscustoms I work on TPI and LT cars exclusively, you’d think otherwise in my line of work. Just sold my 1991 6sp Corvette for $26k with 55k miles on it.
@@dvscustomsyea for one with a million problems rust all over it paint fucked up and 150,000 miles on the engine and still worth more than alot of normal used cars on marketplace dipshit
Tpi c4s are not money cars, they are not investment cars, they are simply fun cars. Save your boomer ignorance and let the guy play with his car.
@@bobvomhof5699 What’s a boomer?
Will it haul Butt now ?
What's the part number on your top rad hose
www.amazon.com/Gates-22253-Lower-Radiator-Hose/dp/B000C2UCIQ
Corvette people like this choice of music? In their straw hats?
Didn't think so.
Out of everything to complain about, you chose the 60 second intro of copyright free music?
@@IllegalC4 I got out at 0:30ish but you exsplained like a straw hat boy.
@@itsruf1 What da hell is a straw hat boy🤣
waterpump?
Stock waterpump. There's a long neck and short neck version so be sure if you order a replacement that you have the correct one. Also, there is a heater core hose line you'll have to put a plug in on the water pump if you are removing that equipment.
Not trying to be a hater.
I am not like you. I am old. I love fuel injection vs carberators. I am old enough to be your grandpa. Carberators belong on the bottom of the ocean. Fuel injection on these old cars have fuel injection that is so far superior to any carberator.
Modern fuel injection yes but 36 year old GM TPI no thanks.