5 Critical Blocking Areas. Watch this before Drywall!
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- Опубліковано 8 лип 2024
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Another area for blocking is for shower rods/shower door frames or whatever you plan to install to keep the shower water inside the shower area.
Dont forget the swing in the bedroom!
Use a Sharpie and write the height to the centre line of the blocking on the blocking itself then take the photo... takes out any guess work 👍
Yes - write the name of the area on the block too. If the block is in the middle of the wall (i.e. towel bar or toilet paper holder), I write the dimensions from left edge to wall, right edge to wall, etc. so that I can locate it exactly once sheetrocked. Photos rule the world!
@@crabkilla Agree. When you take the photo, you have the context of what you are looking at. When you look at the photo later, you lose that context, so writing a short note is a great idea.
I label the PHOTO using a code: what/where/dimensions, so, by it's name I can easily locate what I'm looking for years down the road. As well as labeling the photo itself.
@@packymck You're my kinda efficient. I love this process! 💕
We would also block out upper corners of windows to hang curtains.
Door stops also
@@andy16062 what you mean the door stops go into the baseboards or back of door
Toilet paper holder needs blocking 🔎🤌
@@Rezin_8 He/Matt covered that near the end of the video.
@@NunYaaBizz not necessarily, and if you mount bumper type doorstops where the door handle meets the wall, there are no protrusions getting in the way of vacuuming.
For those with young ones, blocking for baby gates. I placed some at the top and bottom of the stairs.
I add blocking at top and bottom of stairs for baby gates.
Clever!
What a good idea.
Don't forget a gate into the kitchen.
As a finish carpenter, I wish every builder/framer watched this video.
You may also want to add blocking for the Shelves in Closets!
Gun and fire safes.
and pantry shelves.
how do ya miss closet shelving and tv mounts
Because closets have studs going all the way across and TV's can be mounted anywhere. So unless it is a custom build they leave that up to the owners interpretation.
Yep, and a lot of TV wall mounts are on 16" centers, so you can go directly into the studs.
TV wall mount blocking and wall mount safe blocking in a closet. Those wall mount key safes are perfect for quick locked items like keys, laptops, cash, etc.
Or just 3/4” plywood all of your walls under the Sheetrock! :)
@@NealD sounds like expensive inefficiencies
Yes, that was going to be my comment. Behind TVs after you put in recessed box
For a media wall to add 55 or + Lcd screen, on what's 2x4, stucco, felt/paper, 1/2" drywall: any leads to links on rules to add the TV blocking ? This will include routing new coax media cable & add a 7' high 110v electrical box.
For a media wall to add 55 or + Lcd screen, on what's 2x4, stucco, felt/paper, 1/2" drywall: any leads to links on rules to add the TV blocking ? This will include routing new coax media cable & add a 7' high 110v electrical box.
Hey Matt, I've watched a ton of your videos and this was the only time I heard you mention preparing your house for the inevitable final years/months. You mentioned blocking for the dreaded bathroom grab rail. In line with the subject, I've been sketching in minimum 44" wide doorways in my "forever house" plans on account of the possibility of having to, or more to the point, wanting to be able to move a hospital bed from one room to another. The reason is to avoid ending up literally trapped in one room in your final months, as my father was. There comes a point where getting into a wheel chair becomes impossible, and if you're stuck in a hospital bed that won't fit through a 38" bedroom doorway, that's where you'll be staying for the duration. The beds that are delivered for home care are usually around 36"-40" wide, +you need room to maneauver. Being trapped in one room puts immense stress on both you and your family and caregivers. And being able to be moved around on at least one floor and see out different windows can become a real quality of life issue for everyone. I could write a book on the subject. I'd love to see you address mobility issues for the wheelchair and bed-bound, and how to prep a house build along these lines: having non-carpeted floor or a removable carpet for rolling wheels, building a bathroom and shower that you can roll a shower wheelchair into, how to prep for mobility issues in a two-story home, etc. Most homes are built in dimensions that are not only antithetical to end of life care, but downright antagonistic. :: Thanks for all the great videos.
Great comment. My mom is in a wheelchair, and she is able to get into most areas of the house, but her guest bathroom door is not wide enough. She has the same problem with bathroom access at my sister’s houses, she can’t get the wheelchair through the door. I hadn’t even considered having to move a bed around the house at some point in the future, something to think about as she is considering moving and possibly building a new home. Thanks for the comment, and if you have any more thought or ideas, please feel free to add them.
Terrific comment. I would add that some historic homes cannot be renovated to widen hallways and doorways. This is the case at my house. I am adding a Stiltz lift so I can access both the first and second floors as long as possible. I will have curbless showers in the bathrooms and other aspects of universal design. And I am adding a rooftop deck on the second floor level to make it possible to get some fresh air, But, when it comes to wheelchair, it will depend on using a transport wheelchair that will fit through doors and hallways that are too narrow for a standard wheelchair.
The one area that everyone forgets to cross block is where a door handle might puncture the sheetrock. If you have renters, you know what I'm talking about.
Use a door stop
@@frahny1957 They don't last. A 14 3/8" long 2x4 lasts until the house is destroyed.
@@frahny1957 Evidently you have never had kids or college students as tenants in a rental property....ROFLMAO
I really like this detail
@@AndyFromBeaverton "...until the house is destroyed." = exactly 3 months after bad renters move in.
My boss loves that I watch your channel. Thank you for my raise!
That's an awesome boss for recognizing that.
Blocking in showers/bathtubs for grab bars, especially in-law units.
Garage blocking for shelves and workout apparatus!
I like to put blocking at forced air vent edges and curtain rod ends.
I would also add blocking for coat hooks in the mud room or at front door, if you leave the coats on the hook instead of a foyer closet. Especially up north, snow jackets and heavy winter coats.
Hey, you pro builders, I'd like to add a sixth - if the home's exterior is stucco, stick a little blocking in place for the doorbell.
Or if you are doing stucco then fine a nice recessed button or door stations.
Thermostat too!
When I took off a bunch of drywall to run new electrical, low voltage, reinsulate, and add blocking, I made sure to take pretty detailed measurements of almost everything and turned it into a sketchup model. It's super handy to remember exactly where a particular cable, pipe, or blocking might be in the wall.
Just don't forget to print out all the important bits in case the computer dies or sketchup stops working. Taping the laminated printout to the inside of a cupboard door will make it much harder to lose that data - so long as no small children have access to the cupboard in question.
@@tealkerberus748 Yeah, that’s a good backup idea as well. I keep all my digital files backed up on my NAS and with a cloud service for redundancy.
I like to block for crown molding. Especially if you have a client who wants stacked crown. Well worth the extra work
I've done tonnes of blocking on many projects in all the areas mentioned, but also shower/tub sides/ends, pedestal sinks and floating vanity locations, chandelier or ceiling fan locations, sides of window headers for valances and curtain rods, in closets for shelving/clothes hanging accessories, garage door header sides/ceilings, exterior/interior walls for hvac mini-split locations and mechanical room walls for hanging equipment.
I work at an insulation company and install garage doors on my own, so I see the bare bones of a house every day. It's amazing to see the care some builders take a the lack of from some. Certain national builders stop at the kitchen, others it feels like every bay. Welbilt of leesport PA goes as far as creating a build book for all vital measurements post drywall like blocking, utilities and stud spacing. Little details matter in choosing a home builder
Hello from Leesport 👋
In sweden we use osb on the interior walls before drywall both 1/2" thick. So we can put anything anywere. Thats really nice
You should see the price for a sheet of 4x8ft (122cm x 244cm) ... currently around $70USD due to building supply shortage.
@@milofonbil we have the same here in sweden, lumber is up like 30-50% one piece osb 120x240cm is 22,66usd today so not as bad as the states yet
I worked in Germany a few years back. People take their entire kitchen and electrical fixtures with them when they move. I wouldn't think OSB would support heavy kitchen cabinets.
@@garryharris3777 no problem with cabinets falling down with osb and drywall. We have been using it for many years as a standard for building houses. And as for taking fixtures in germany that may be True. In sweden all appliances remains(washer,dryer, freezer and so on)in the house or apartment only light fixtures is removed. If its not a spotlight they stay.
For years I designed art galleries, which we would use 1/2” plywood behind the drywall, to be prepared for any size or placement of artwork. And then carried over this practice in the kitchen design especially when we had a kitchen with floor ceiling cabinets and backsplash. We were also hopefully suspended base cabinets.
Planning for a toilet grab rail for old age.... This is what I call planning LMAO!👍
I am planning my forever home at 42 years old. Everything is being planned on 1 level and 100% handicap accessible. Large oversized walk in shower that will allow a wheelchair or walker, bench, and a 2nd person with plenty of space, all doors wide enough for hospital bed, wheelchair, walker access, entry doors extra wide and minimal step with easy future ramp install. Cannot really plan cabinet height but even if in a wheelchair normal counter height is acceptable. My wife and I agreed, we are dying in this house. Not a nursing home if we can prevent it. So his adding a grab bar blocking for in the future is ingenious. My home will have it already, not later. And at the moment, neither of us have any handicaps.
@@4our5ive61 I would skip all that and buy a shotgun instead.
@@4our5ive61 I agree. Smart planning these days with how much home prices are rising.
You don't have to be old to need the grab bars. I installed one at 35 due to back problems.
Where is the blocking for toilets? It seems to me he wants to put old toilets back in
ADA requires 6" blocking at tubs and toilets. A 2x6 is only 5.5". Other places to add blocking is walls that will have a TV mounted, closet rods and shelf supports, mechanical closets, exterior walls for awnings, or anywhere you plan to hang more than 25 lbs. I also like to do plywood under the sheetrock in garages.
Back in mid 90s, when I built my home, I installed recessed 2x10 blocking laid flat, in the ceiling for mounting my ceiling fans. A little overkill, but the mount is solid, with never any vibration. I had trusses at 2ft oc .. with 5/8" firecode DW screw attached. Avg ranch home, but better than contractor grade materials, and construction..
Was gonna mention fans/chandeliers/light fixtures
I like the thought of that. What kind of junction box do you use to be code compliant?
@@brianabington2833 Steel anchor box screwed into 2x10. Steel Romex connectors holding wiring. I didn't use anything less than #12 /2 with ground, throughout house. Fans with light kits, received #12/3 with ground. My personal opinion, #14 is a waste of time and effort, with minimal savings. I guess for a subdivision, that savings might be justified.
@@graybeard2113 did you cut a hole in the middle of the 2x10 or attach it to the side?
@@graybeard2113 agreed on using #12 everywhere. Some people are very adamant about using the minimum everywhere.
Also consider blocking for grab bars in showers and tubs.
Does anyone else just grab lunch and casually watch Matt’s show 😅
Yes, only to be reminded of the things I didn't do last summer. I knew to block the bathroom sink and where my kitchen 12v stretched cable lighting was going. Didn't bother with the rest of that stuff and it came out fine. I have never blocked a TP or towel bar. Drywall anchors are pretty good these days.
Pantry selves can get heavy, closet rods can get overloaded, anywhere large pictures, mirrors, or artwork might get hung in living, family, or dining rooms. Like Matt says, use up the scraps cause it's better to have them in there before drywall, than to retrofit it afterward. I like to give everyone a chance with a crayon to imagine where they would put those. It's fun, and the kids have come up with some great places, they think outside the box because to them anything is possible..
Blocking for future or planned patio covers is always a good idea- for the attached ledger.
I have a couple of interior security cameras, so that is a fine place to consider blocking. And anywhere you think you'll put coathooks and key racks. I've had to retro a few older homes, and I love finding plywood behind my sheetrock!
Good point about the grab rail around the toilet. We should probably do this in all our houses.
TV mount blocking I do for my homeowner's TV locates
Added blocking for wall mounted microwave above kitchen stove. Thanks for posting these suggestions, have not found a concise listing of what to block. Articles were very helpful too.
Usually the mounting plate crosses at least two studs and manufacturers only require one.
You put it above your stove? I'm planning my next house to have a wall mounted oven and the microwave under it - I don't want a whole lot of steam rising up into the microwave electronics.
@@tealkerberus748 In the US some microwave models are designed with integrated exhaust fans built into them that tie into ductwork to draft air from the stove top specifically to remove steam, smoke, etc.
Since you're going to put blocking anywhere on a wall that a screw might ever go into, you should just cover the whole inside of every room with half-inch plywood the ultimate block - drywall guy will like it - all glue just 4 screws - strong house also - mild insulation value
Block also for curtains, drapes, or blinds.
Curtains, lighting fixtures and fans, mirrors, outlets and switches, barn doors, wall mounted monitors and TV, bedside wall-mounted lights, HVAC vents...
If you're planning on putting in frameless shower glass and returns blocking is critical there as that glass can get heavy.
Ahh someone else mentioned it already. Yeah I wish my builder thought about that, having to do it after the fact is a pita
I would put in grab bars (toilet and shower) right from the get-go. That's what I did when I remodeled my master bath & I have not regretted it. I learned my lesson years ago when I had an accident and broke my kneecap. Grab bars are not just for the elderly. I strongly believe in universal design (stuff like wide doors for wheelchair / gurney access, grab bars, low or no-curb shower entries, cabinet design in bathrooms especially to allow wheelchair use. The future sneaks up on you fast, and you have no way of knowing when / if someone will have a medical issue. Easy to address those concerns now. As for blocking, definitely need anywhere you're going to hang a big TV--so much easier than trying to hit framing.
Good points. So easy to add before the interior wall, whatever you might use, goes up.
Grab bars in EVERY New house. I absolutely LOVE that idea and will definitely use it from now on.
I used to agree with the tv but now with the electrical insets becoming common place I don’t do it anymore
I use blocking to secure my beds headboard to keep it from banging against the wall.
All great ideas - will pay off for many years - I always add blocking in the living room where the TV mounts will be needed as well
Perfect video to watch right as I just finished drywall.
😂same here
Coffered ceilings were very popular in my area of NY for a few years and we always put blocking in the ceilings for them.
heavy framed mirrors and art work
TV mounts (I put bolts inside the wall. Had a recessed hole in the face of the blocking, then used a nut and lock washer to keep it from ever backing out. Pressed the dry wall against the bolts to mark, drilled the holes, then secured mount with flat washers and locking nuts
Or you can cover the whole framing with OSB on the interior, (except on the ceiling) then add the drywall.
We do that in my country and it makes a Huge difference. With that, the wall becomes a true wall where you can put screws and hang things wherever you like. (Not a boiler of course)
Also a vapor barrier would be a nice addition to protect the insulation.
Here in the Faroe Islands, it's almost standard practice to put 9mm-12mm osb sheeting before the plasterboards.
That’s would add another 6 million dollars to the cost of the build. Haha!
The Faroes are pretty cold and windy, aren't they? I'd imagine extra sheeting would help with that.
@@tealkerberus748 it is not that cold, but it is pretty windy. But i guess it is to strengthen the walls, so the plaster doesnt break just leaning on it.
So many people overlook this detail. But it makes life so much easier when you’re trimming out
Thanks Matt for this video! And thanks to so many of the commenters who suggested blocking for window treatments. Make sure the blocking extends at least 16" (more if you can) from each vertical side of the window. Even if you're installing shades rather than curtains I recommend blocking because home owners may decide to change their decor after a couple of years. This is such a valuable tip, Matt.
Closets for wire shelving.
Toddler’s rooms for anti-fall furniture straps.
I like to band the top of any room getting crown molding. Pocket screws and some 1x stock like you did with the 3/4 ply. Makes hanging crown a lot easier.
In my old house, I put up blocking for all the crown and tall baseboards. Where I live now, I am just finishing up the basement - put up blocking for wainscotting. It was great hanging all that stuff without having to worry about stud placement for even one second. Also, as others have said, blocking for the TV wall mount.
That's a great suggestion for the baseboard and wainscoting
Coincidentally, I was thinking of this yesterday in my new cottage. I was wondering about areas with utilities so the plywood idea is perfect. I will be using it for cabinets, towel bars, & TV mounts. Thanks
Love these ideas...also blocking for HVAC vent covers and curtain rods would be awesome...or for tv wall mounts
Never fails that I find these just after I really need to see them.
Lmaoo!! Up !
Great points. Full blocking in the top of the windows, that makes hanging curtains easy and sturdy
I may have missed you saying it but tv mounts, tankless water heater’s. In my case I’m blocking for radiant floor manifold and for my water filters. I love your videos I have learned so much from them while trying to build my house
Floor blocking was a new one on me. Usually, old school framers double plate the stud wall so the finish framer, and Sheetrock installer can hit something solid every time. When you frame you pretty much layout the entire floor with your bottom plate, then you tilt up, and nail your compete stud wall you assembled on the floor on top of the plate. It's about the same amount of nails, but you save time on cutting or scavenging cut-offs, and then custom fitting them in each void.
I like to do those as well . Plus its nice to put some in the shower area. It doesn't take long and there is always enough scraps around. Some times if a person is getting on in the years they want hand rails there. I did it on a house I remodeled. I made shore to leave the location drawn on a paper in the bathroom with the measurements on it, so some one could find them if need be. Thanks for sharing I enjoy you information.
I use a speedbore bit to drill “pockets” on four corners of the block and then angle screws into the pocket and into the adjoining stud. You can also use a screwed on piece of 1 by 2 /3 to help hold the block flush while you fasten it.
In your garage, installing both blocking for your garage door roller guide tracks and your garage door opener support hangers. Another item to install for your garage door opener is an extra electrical junction box for your garage door opener control wiring. How many times have I been in a finished garage and when you look up at the garage door opener you see the electrical outlet with its trim cover plate that power the opener but off to the side is a bare hole in the ceiling with the opener control wiring hanging from the hole.
I learn so much from your videos! The best building content on the web! Thanks so much.
Read through the comments and there was a lot of extra things not mentioned but I add blocking above interior doors for barn door tracks as well. Often times the predrilled holes are not at 16 or 24. Last one so installed were 20” OC
Add blocking for your crown mold and fire extinguishers. Even though you'll probably use some sort of a wall bumper or floor stop at the doors it wouldn't hurt to add a piece of plywood behind the sheet rock at the door knobs just in case the door hits the wall. It really does stiffen the drywall.
Along with taking pictures of The blocking it wouldn't hurt to note the dimension to the center of the blocking from the floor up and the dimension from the corner to the blocking on the drawings.
I also install blocking in the bathroom for a sink as well as for shower rods or door systems
Thanks for another video!! always very informative!
11:36 the shade!!! i love it
Blocking at top and bottom of stairs for baby gates, side of king studs at top of window openings for curtain rod brackets, blocks at bottom of door king studs and inside corners for base trim.
If you are installing one of those sliding barn style doors, check that the mounting lines up with the framing, otherwise blocking there too.
Blocking in the middle of the ceiling for a fan or chandelier, above the bathroom mirror for lights, in the study or office for shelving, behind doors for high or low doorstops, by exit doors for key racks and coat hangers, in the kitchen for racks that hang pots and pans, bedrooms where tvs might be desired, foyer for bike hangers, closets for shelves.
Wow thank you! I even learn from the comments. Simple yet Great info yall! 🔨
Base block next to door. Gonna have to remember that one. Good tips.
That framing is so neat I'm jealous. Wish all framers did such quality work.
I transfer studs and blocking onto the floor 🔎🤌 my cabinet and rock guys LOVE IT
I like that he called it a Milwaukee sharpie. I do that stuff all the time. I own a Milwaukee skil saw and a pair of Milwaukee channel lock pliers.
Drives me crazy. Like "sheetrock"!! Sheetrock is a brand. The material is called drywall. Don't forget your Vise Grips. Sawzall..
do you call a reciprocating saw - made by any company *other* than the milwaukee electric tool company - a "sawzall"?
TV wall mounts, Shower Glass doors, Work bench areas in the garage or where you want to have wall mounted brackets for countertops or shelves and Fire Place mantels.
Hinged shower doors usually require a pretty solid blocking, if it is not already taken care off with a double stud.
Also, if you plan on installing a solar system, it is a good idea to have some blocking inbetween roof rafters where the mounting rails will go onto.
Third I think of some blocking in the garage, where heavy wall mounted shelving can be attached to or a bicycle rack or you name it.
And if you plan on installing wall mounted batteries like the TESLA Powerwall - blocking would be helpful as well!
Or just line garage wall in 3/4 inch plywood - the "everywhere blocking". Line over with sheetrock, or make the plywood a feature wall..
Yup. Confirm on the shower door deadwood.
block around shower and tub areas for Schluter or WEDI board in the wet and drywall on the dry part of the wall. Also backing for glass shower partions. I am about to install blocking for backing behind huge hood fan. Because I dont know the possible securing points inside the hood fan now, blocking will hopefully be in a good position.
TV's hanging from the wall need special frame and therefore backing is a good thing to have, also the wires for power and sound need to be behind the TV too. Sometimes (heavy) art work will require backing.
It also helps to install blocking for window treatments like curtain rod brackets and tie back hardware. It might help to install blocking for closet shelving, hanging rods or cloak hooks.
In kitchens, it's just easier to sheet the entire room in plywood before sheet rock. This gives you the ability to set a screw anywhere and makes remodels and other changes easier later on. It's the same thing I advise for my model railroad clients doing new builds.
blocking for grab bars and stair rails is just great advice, have seen them get ripped off the walls in multiple houses due to missing structural framing or not enough support. Just wanted to ping on the pocket door piece, you actually made a note with an arrow calling for 5/8 on the pocket door and you undersized with 7/16 plywood - cheaping out :)
For aging in place & eventual disability, it’s great to have grab-bar blocking around bed locations and in shower/bathing areas.
Blocking for window treatments like curtains, blinds,etc
Depending on Window treatment block's off the top and side and at times back out for tube and shower
Blocking for wall mounted big screen tv's is also a good idea.
I also like to keep my wiring a foot from the floor where it goes thru the studs. Most people never put nails there.
2x8 blocks between studs on a slope where roof butts into a wall if you are laying brick. Makes it easier to bolt angle irons on wall at the sloped roof. Also be sure walls around shower pans are blocked. If you are hanging mirrors over vanities, block between studs to attach mirrors.
TVs, garage door openers, security panel, and door bell. For the thermostat i ran a dedicated 2 gang box. Many thermos come with gang adapters now
Love Spencer over at Insider Carpentry. A beast of a one man show!
Definitely can't forget about blocking for future window treatments like places for the curtain rods to screw into
I block my closets for wire racking and the fireplace for a Tv/Mirror/Picture. I also block bathrooms above the vanity for mirrors. I block showers/tubs for diverter valves and shower head plumbing.
When is the 50 page book on how to own the details of building a home being published? Love ur innovation and details. Keep em coming kind sir.
You think it's only gonna be 50 pages
Your Home is Looking Incredible 👌!!!!
You're Entire Family 👪 Deserves IT!!!
Blocking around windows for curtain rods & such! Our last house we blocked 2X8all around the windows so whatever the wifie wanted to hang there was some blocking. Also Animal mounts need blocking behind them or they can fall off the wall! Hanging plywood behind the Sheetrock also works well for animal mounts! e
If you have an av room blocking for displays and speakers are a very good thing!
Door knob pop hole, bathroom lightbar, wall sconces, porch lights, tub and shower grab bars, doorbell, doorbell transformer, garage tool rack, curtain rods or valances,
Id add if your older lets say 50-55 and up you may want additional blocking lower on the star well for a future lift, in my fathers case when we built the addition we put in two utility closets on top of each other and a 220 cable run (un hooked to the pnl) for a future elevator
as well as hand rail blocking in the bath rooms, the large flat steps to the door were to allow future metal ramps. I say this because this is your home and if designed right you can live in it longer
In a fancier house... Blocking above windows for draperies. Window treatments.
Window to ceiling and 20" to sides.
This is important on heavy. Intricate drapes and or super tall ones that span two floors worth.
you may want to consider blocking for TV brackets, particularly that big tv you are planning to install you mentioned in a previous video. I also have a garage shop, so blocking for cabinets in the garage is just as important as in the kitchen. can't wait to see the finished house, I have learned a lot watching the rebuild.
Definitely blocking for TV or other AV components. My last build for our great room I took leftovers of our LVL beam and filled the wall studs 3 wide. That way no question when mounting any size TV.
I did blocking behind where the door handles or knobs can contact the wall so it can get damaged but never have a hole knocked in the drywall.
Block for heavy artwork that you know where you will hang. We are owner/builders and love your videos Matt!
Blocking for grab bars in shower like you have along toilet. (If I missed a mention, sorry and ignore.)
And not just horizontal but also for vertical to hold onto for getting into and out of the shower.
@@brianfletcher7942 and not only for you but also vertical ones at the entry for heavy glass panel fasteners.
Blocking for TVs and around the windows for drapes and drapery tie backs.
Blocking for barn door tracks and blocking for taxidermy shoulder mounts in vaulted rooms