Modification of Parkside PMSG 200 A1 MIG/MAG/MMA welder | Part 2 - Silencing the Fan
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- In this part you will see: Mute the fan manually, using the PWM speed control module with the possibility of completely switching off the fan.
I find that for my normal welding, when I do short welds I don't need the fan to run at 100% all the time. Normally when I'm spot welding or fastening components I turn the fan completely off. Also when I'm grinding welds or something is dusty, I turn the fan off so it doesn't suck unnecessary dirt into the inside of the welder. When I go to do long welds, I add on fan speed at about 50 - 60% but normally I use it without the fan or with the fan at about 20%. I haven't overheated the welder yet.
I make all modifications so that they can be returned to their original state.
The case model for the driver can be downloaded here:
cults3d.com/en...
Oh yeah, you can pretty easy put a thermal fan controller between the fan and the powersuply, if you make a set of connectors, so that you can remove it if necessary.
Ahoj , namiesto potenciometra v PWM použiť NTC rezistor umiestnený na najteplejšom chladiči, inak super video a super kanál
Vďaka, ale pokiaľ bude zváračka v záruke, nič nebudem na chladič montovať. Premýšľal som o tom, ale bez kompletnej demontáže dosky a stôp po taktomto zásahu to jednoducho nejde. Všetky úpravy som robil tak, aby boli bez problémov vratné a to kvôli záruke. Keby nie, urobil by som to inak.
@@Tech-3D Je to pochopiteľné. Výhodou Lidlu však je, že sa na reklamovaný tovar pri reklamovaní do vnútra veľmi nepozerajú a ani nevyznajú, len vrátia peniaze - čo je tiež občas na škodu, keď nie je náhrada. Zväčša im stačí pre nich dostatočne jasný dôvod vrátenia.
Nazdar si macher. Len tak ďalej môžem ta odporučiť v jednom videu kde sa budem venovať PMSG 200 A1.
Môžeš. Ďakujem. Ale aj Ty si macher. Máš úspešný kanál a robíš to dobre. Nech sa Ti darí.
@@Tech-3D Ďakujem. Rad ti pomôžem. Viem aké bolo začiatky tažke.
Hi, wondering if a temp based fan regulation wouldn't be safer?
Hi. It's not about safety. The welder has its thermal protection. I have no problem converting this controller to a temperature controlled fan controller either BUT: it would mean disassembling the entire main board of the welder, disconnecting all the connectors and damaging all the glues on them. It would be necessary to mount the thermocouple on the heat sink and probably drill a mounting hole in it. All of this means a certain loss of the 3 year warranty which I don't want to lose.
I use the welder with the fan off most of the time, at most I sometimes run the fan at about 30%. I haven't overheated it yet.
I've made all the adjustments to be reversible.
The Fan is a bldc motor so a pwm do not work, clever to use a coil and a cap making it a pwm to voltage converter.
On a continuously regulated lab voltage source, the speed control worked for me. So I made the pulsed PWM current source into a continuous DC voltage source.
@@Tech-3D Exact, the fan is a bldc, and has a little pcb for that inside, these need continously regulated voltage indeed.
ahoj nevadí ti ten podavač? já bych ho chtel lepsi
Ahoj, zatiaľ som s ním nemal problém ale je fakt, že nezváram toho veľa. Podávač by si ale zaslúžila vylepšiť, to je fakt.
Good project.
Thank You!
Brushless fan is not dimmable
ne vidim kakva korist od ovog ?
It doesn't matter at all. Don't make anything of it.
Could you recommend us a fan speed controller with no modification ? I have found on Aliexpress the controller you use on your video but I don´t end up knowing the specific component you add to this controller.
Hi, I can't recommend any particular one. I used what I had in my drawer from some supplies. But basically without modifications there can't be a PWM controller, just some continuous, linear one. Otherwise there has to be an LC component used.
@@Tech-3D It would be useful for me to know the specs of those electrolytic capacitor and inductor. On the other hand, as alternative, I´ve been thinking on changing that fan for another silent fan as Noctua or similar without speed regulator (2500 rmp would be enough ?). I would just have to change the AC from 24v to 12v with a triac. How do you see it ?
@@juangambin2342 I don't know the values of the parts right now. I guess I just need to try it out. I put a choke and a capacitor I had, I think around 220 uF capacity. I also just tried it and checked it on the oscilloscope. The problem with replacing the fan with a Noctua or other fan is that the Noctua doesn't have the airflow as this one, the original one, even though it is noisy. It is difficult to replace a tanto fan. Thus if you needed full cooling power with the Noctua you wouldn't get it. The fan is powered by a DC voltage.
@@Tech-3D
Obviously your regulator is a cheaper option and probably more practical, and reading your comments I would prefer this solution but I have doubts about how you connect that components among them because on your video I don´t end up to see it clearly, and where it goes connected both poles on the little board.
Excuse me for my inexperience on electronic.
Raději bych předělal plastový podavač a až potom si hrál s ventilátorem. Spíš dát výkonnější pomaloběžný a méně hlučný než regulovat stávající.
Podávač je pre mňa v poriadku. Keď sa zošteluje, je 100%-tný. Ak niekomu blbne, tak hlavne nech si zošteluje súbežnosť drážok na kladkách a tiež vymení kladku, za kladku na drôt. Nepotrebuje nutne vymieňať podávač. Dlhší horák nepotrebujem, funguje spoľahlivo, mám malú dielničku a na vozíku si vždy zváračku prisuniek kam treba a teraz mám už aj dlhší zemniaci kábel. Avšak samozrejme, každý preferuje niečo iné, tak vy si prerobte radšej podávač.
Čo sa týka ventilátora, tak termín výkonnejší a pomalobežný znejú v tomto prípade ako oxymoron. Totiž ak by ste si pozreli parametre použitého ventilátora v zváračke, len veľmi ťažko by ste našli ventilátor s rovnakým prietokom vzduchu ale s nižšou hlučnosťou a už vôbec by ste, podľa mňa, nenašli pomalobežný ventilátor, ktorý bude zároveň výkonnejší ako tento, že by mal vyšší prietok vzduchu a ešte pri nižších otáčkach a hlučnosti aby dodával vyšší statický tlak vzduchu.
Ďalší problém s výmenou ventilátora je taký, že všetky super tiché ventilátory v tomto rozmere sú buď len na 12V (a tým majú menší výkon) alebo keď sú na 24V a tiché, tak sú šialene drahé. Aj keď som zváračku kúpil lacno, v akcii, radšej som investoval do káblov 25 mm2 a nechcel som ju už predražovať ventilátorom.
Zváračku aj tak používam hlavne bez ventilátora a len v prípade potreby, napríklad keď viem, že idem robiť dlhé zvary bez prestávok, lebo už mám všetko pribodované, pustím ventilátor tak na 50 %. Inak je ticho a ani pri brúsení mi ventilátor do zváračky nenasáva kovový prach.
Ak však máte na mysli konkrétny model ventilátora, ktorý je pomalobežný a výkonnejší ako stávajúci, môžete uviesť konkrétny typ.
Ahoj, tlmivka dosť výrazne pomohla, doporučam dorobiť. Snažím sa spojazdniť pwm na ventilátor, a neviem sú dat rady ako modifikovať modul aby správne reguloval ventilátor. Zapojenie a hodnoty súčiastok by si vedel zverejniť. Ďakujem
Ahoj. Ak máš na mysli hodnoty súčiastok LC filtra, tak to je hlavne závislé na frekvencii PWM regulátora. Momentálne neviem, čo som tam použil, dal som čo som našiel v šuplíku. Tlmivka je tam nejaká čínska z Alexpressu, raz som ich kúpil asi 10 ks za 1 Euro a kondenzátor asi nejakých 220 uF/35V. Neviem, či máš tam presne ten istý PWM regulátor alebo iný? Ak máš regulátor s nižšou frekvenciou musíš použiť obidbve súčiastky (L aj C) s omnoho vyššímy hodnotami. V prípade cievky s väčším počtom závitov a v prípade kondenzátora s vyššou kapacitou. Kľudne aj nad 1 000 uF/35(50V). Obidve súčiastky L aj C plnia svoju úlohu ale dostupnejšie budeš mať asi len skusmo vyskúšať navyšovať hodnotu kapacity kondenzátora. Tak ak nejaké máš, pripájaj ich na seba paralelne a pri nejakej kapacite sa ti to rozbehne, ak tam nie je ešte iný problém. Najlepšie je to pomerať osciloskopom alebo tam dať nejaký lineárny regulátor a máš pokoj. Ja som mal len PWM ale cez meniacu sa striedu signálu pulzne šírkovej modulácie sa bezkomutátorové motory nedajú regulovať v celom rozsahu.
Ciao , aspettiamo modifica velocita filo saldare!
Ciao, si imposta la velocità del filo con la corrente in Ampere.
@@Tech-3D thanks for the Videos at first. Did the wire upgrade and Choke mod and am happy with the results. It would be nice to add a Poti to lower the wire speed. For me it is a bit too fast most of the Times. Can you recommend a Module for that?
@@Hennimal77 It would certainly be possible to reduce the wire feed rate but I don't know of an easy way at the moment. I would have to measure how the wire feed motor speed is electronically controlled in that welder. The synergy used in this Parkside welder is not always satisfactory, that's a fact. If fast wire feed is your thing, try welding with thinner 0.6 mm wire.
This is really the dumbest mod on a welder. Yeah the rubber fan mount is a good idea, but: First a brushless fan can not be controlled with a pwm signal, only by changing the voltage, like a linear regulated power supply does, second: how do you know when your welder is running hot now? When it starts to smoke?
The way to go is a thermal DC fan controller, the kind you find in most HP computers, bud also ready made available..
The brushless fan, as can be seen in the video and oscilloscope signal waveform, is voltage controlled, not PWM. This is provided by the LC filter element. I made the PWM controller a linearly controllable power supply.
The welder doesn't run hot and in any case it can't smoke, due to overheating. The welder has thermal protection, it switches off when overheating. Tested - it works.
The load capacity given by the manufacturer is underestimated, in practice there is no overheating when used according to the load table. Another factor is that the thermal protection value is on the low side and does not even reach the operating temperature limits of the semiconductor.
Automatic fan speed control is not an option. Automatic temperature control means disconnecting all connectors from the motherboard, removing the motherboard, drilling a hole in the heat sink, installing a thermistor - temperature sensor and controller.
Basically, I have no problem in a few minutes to convert even this PWM controller to temperature control. But all this means LOSS OF WARRANTY.
I quickly made all modifications to the welder as easily reversible in the event of a failure, and quickly put it back to its original condition, without interfering with the electronics. This is just an idea, not a guide or recommendation.
In my welding, the main heat sink has a temperature of around 48 - 52 degrees Celsius measured with an infrared thermometer at an ambient temperature of 24 degrees Celsius without a fan.
I have made a temperature controllboard based on a LM317, i will just hot glue the sensor on the heatsink, no need to remove the board.
I dont care much about the warranty, even if it breaks i would return it, it is cheap they dont put in the efford to check it and just trow it in the trash, if it isnt visible damaged.
et sa sert a quoi vos modification svp
À réduire le bruit du ventilateur en réduisant la vitesse dans la limite des tolérances à la surchauffe.
nonsense...are you going to use the device in a library so that the fan is quiet. A surgeon or a thief makes the video with these nasty gloves.