Ty for the video. Wife shut off air fan wouldn't come back on. Harness burnt up exactly the same as one in video. Resistor rang out good. Fixed it for $57 for a new harness splice kit. Rediculess for 5 wires butt splices and a plastic plug. Thanks again saved me $$$.
If your blower motor is working, it will always work on the highest setting because that bypasses the need for the resistor. But if the lower fan speed settings are not working then it’s a bad resistor
@@anthonynastasi4098 thanks, I got a new cable assembly coming ($42), and blower for $90 (upgraded version). I figure the blower is going bad causing the cables to overheat and fry out
@@demon36982 yes, you can fix it for relatively little money. The pigtail to the resistor had a bad connection for the high speed. Just the one wire end needs to be replaced. I found the parts I need at an electrical store. Lower the pigtail end, remove the one wire that is charred (second in but not sure from what side). Snip the end off and put a new end on it.I spent in all $4 to fix it. But if you can’t find a connector that is similar you may need to buy a new pigtail which is $42. Ask for the pigtail to the resistor. I also cleaned the resistor with isopropyl alcohol and got a lot of gunk off. I returned both the resistor harness and blower I previously bought
@@anthonynastasi4098 yes pig tail was the problem i put a new one and all is working. how ever it burned the new pig tail again and i suspect the resistor too. i resourse to a amp clamp and i read 16 amps im thinking its too much so i order a new blower and will most likely have to put a new resistor i really hope i can reuse the pig tail it was 55 bucks.
It's the blower motor that loads that circuit and the resistor reduces the voltage for blower speeds try using a OEM harness and then put dielectrical grease in the pigtail and you might just want to replace the blower motor
I just replaced everything (blower motor, resistor and wiring harness) the wiring harness burned out right away including the resistor. For the second time back to back. Any solutions to this? Or is my car a lemon?
PS, I hate this car. Right when I hit 100,000 miles it started shutting off while idling (Valve cover) 2 days later the blower stopped working on high speed, 2 days later fan intermittently worked, 2 more days later no air at all.
What did you do to make sure that the resistor was burned out? Did you just make an assumption that the resistor was toasted or did you actually test it for resistance? The plug was melted the exact same way on the Trax I was working on yet the resistor was ok as when you played with the plug connection you could get the fan to work on all four speeds. Did you test the fan to see if it was drawing to much amperage on high speed as many other videos on this topic seem to identify this as the cause of the plug burning up? Would seem to make sense that to much amperage on high speed would be the cause of the plug burning up and I suspect if you just replace the plug and the resistor without identifying the cause of the plug burning the replacement plug is just going to burn up in the future as well. Another thing I noticed is leaves being able to get inside and trapped in the cabin filter only after a couple months of the previous one being replaced and suspect that if this is not cleared regularly or prevented from entering the system could cause undue strain to the blower motor, perhaps causing increase in amperage draw resulting in the burning up of the plug. In my case when I measured the amperage of the original blower motor there appeared to be a very high spike in what was being drawn on high speed so I chose to replace the blower motor which involves cutting out the original from the housing with a utility knife and screwing in the replacement to housing, also replaced the burned plug. Will get back to you if there is any further burning of the replacement plug with the new blower motor installed.
@@anthonynastasi4098 Yes I understand that you replaced the resistor and the burnt plug but my specific question was did you actually test the resistor to make sure it was bad or just replace it assuming it was bad? In my case with a burnt plug looking exactly like yours there was actually no damage to the resistor. I freely admit that I initially had made the assumption that the resistor was bad after seeing the burnt plug, however after testing it I found there to be no damage to it and the blower fan simply stopped working because the burnt plug was no longer making proper contact with the resistor. Also did you determine the actual cause as to why the plug connector burned so that the same problem did not subsequently occur to the new plug installation? If the blower motor is defective in drawing to much current it could result in burning up the new plug connector once again which is why after testing the current draw I ended up replacing the blower fan and the burnt connector. To those choosing to replace the blower motor be patient cutting it out at the housing seam with a utility knife as I found it to be quite a tight, tedious pain in the back process but you will be rewarded in the fact that it only takes a couple of minutes to screw in the replacement. P.S. The new blower motor did not come with the 3 screws required to install it, however you can just use the 3 screws from the old blower motor housing plate as they are the correct size 🙂
@@alcampbell512 mine was the same way.. I replaced everything, wire plug, resistor and blower fan. They lasted a week. this time the wire harness was melted BIG time... I have all new items installed again. I have yet to connect the wiring as I am trying to find the issue. It has to be in the fan control switch... Something is sending to much power/amps to the resistor causing it and the wire harness to fail. Anthony, imo hasn't identified the problem fully.
@@michaeloliver5190 So far so good for me, no problems whatsoever. At this point I really suspect that it was because of the air filter being so clogged with leaves, dust and dirt that it put such a strain on the blower system that it was the cause of the increased amperage and overheating of the wiring harness. Thanks for reminding me that I should check the air filter :)
Good information regarding the blower motor resistor, but would have been useful to show exactly how the resistor and pigtails were removed.
We should report this to Gm everyone who has a Chevy Trax us going thru this iam just now going thru th I s shit
My pigtail burnt out and now there is no power to the con connector at all 2016 Chevy Trax
Ty for the video. Wife shut off air fan wouldn't come back on. Harness burnt up exactly the same as one in video. Resistor rang out good. Fixed it for $57 for a new harness splice kit. Rediculess for 5 wires butt splices and a plastic plug. Thanks again saved me $$$.
Ligit like and subscribe please
Where did you find the harness, I can’t find it for 2016 trax
$57. Lucky you. $106 in Canada.
Thank you so much from Bologna, Italy
Thank u
Thank you for this video !!!
Blower is probably drawing too much current, causing pigtail and resistor to melt.
Under rated wire and plug just my opinion
@@anthonynastasi4098 crappy pins in the pigtail. Probably made from recycled lawn mowers...
What about if everything works except position 4th on the switch not ?
Probably bad switch
Resistor
If your blower motor is working, it will always work on the highest setting because that bypasses the need for the resistor. But if the lower fan speed settings are not working then it’s a bad resistor
Mine works on 1, 2, 3 but not 4. Replaced the resistor but not dice
If its wired correct.. possible switch..or bad resistor
@@anthonynastasi4098 thanks, I got a new cable assembly coming ($42), and blower for $90 (upgraded version). I figure the blower is going bad causing the cables to overheat and fry out
@@anthonynastasi4098 I will update how it goes
@@demon36982 yes, you can fix it for relatively little money. The pigtail to the resistor had a bad connection for the high speed. Just the one wire end needs to be replaced. I found the parts I need at an electrical store. Lower the pigtail end, remove the one wire that is charred (second in but not sure from what side). Snip the end off and put a new end on it.I spent in all $4 to fix it. But if you can’t find a connector that is similar you may need to buy a new pigtail which is $42. Ask for the pigtail to the resistor. I also cleaned the resistor with isopropyl alcohol and got a lot of gunk off. I returned both the resistor harness and blower I previously bought
@@demon36982 no problem, you can definitely fix it. Very easy repair just don’t do it after driving the car. The resistor get burning hot
Got the same thing going on with a 2020 Chevy Trax and can't figure out why it's not coming on
Start at.pig tail inspection
hi how do you test the control speed know switch it self. i put a new resistor but not the pig tail is till dont have the fan coming on
Look at the pig tail see if it's melted first
@@anthonynastasi4098 yes pig tail was the problem i put a new one and all is working. how ever it burned the new pig tail again and i suspect the resistor too. i resourse to a amp clamp and i read 16 amps im thinking its too much so i order a new blower and will most likely have to put a new resistor i really hope i can reuse the pig tail it was 55 bucks.
It's the blower motor that loads that circuit and the resistor reduces the voltage for blower speeds try using a OEM harness and then put dielectrical grease in the pigtail and you might just want to replace the blower motor
Lord have mercy you would think as long as I’ve worked on these things ida thought of that
I just replaced everything (blower motor, resistor and wiring harness) the wiring harness burned out right away including the resistor. For the second time back to back. Any solutions to this? Or is my car a lemon?
Did you ever found the problem?
hello Anthony, can you please repeat your comment with regard to knocking the motor? I did that and it started, it's now stopped again. thank you
Bang on the blower motor see if it start ..
@@anthonynastasi4098 hi Anthony, yes it did start yesterday, and worked this morning and now its stopped ??
Do you have a video on actually taking the motor out and replacing?
This was just the connection that was bad and resistor
@@anthonynastasi4098 nobody is not addressing the issue. Why is the pigtail connection started to burn out.
@@oggwop6724 poor quality use heavy load from blower motor dielectric grease I'm the plug
@@anthonynastasi4098 okay I got you, thanks for the reply.
So what was the fix??
Blower resistor and pigtail ..pig tail harness got it from the dealer
@@anthonynastasi4098 Do you have a part number for that or know of where someone can order one frim?
@@MrWarthog70 I was just told it's part #8904648 by a local dealer and costs $52. They also have the resistor cheaper than the auto parts store
@@MrWarthog70 AC Delco PT#3517 808709531333 is the upc
Hi, great video, in my case my ac works but only blow hot air, do you have any advice about that? TIA
This is what is wrong with mine, I can find the resistor, but not the harness, is there a kit to splice and replace the harness connector?
PS, I hate this car. Right when I hit 100,000 miles it started shutting off while idling (Valve cover) 2 days later the blower stopped working on high speed, 2 days later fan intermittently worked, 2 more days later no air at all.
If you need anything just ask
Inspected blower pig tail and resistor
At that time we went to the dealer for the pig tail harness cut and splice ..same for the resistor ..it maybe available after market by now
It’s AC Delco part 3517
What did you do to make sure that the resistor was burned out? Did you just make an assumption that the resistor was toasted or did you actually test it for resistance? The plug was melted the exact same way on the Trax I was working on yet the resistor was ok as when you played with the plug connection you could get the fan to work on all four speeds. Did you test the fan to see if it was drawing to much amperage on high speed as many other videos on this topic seem to identify this as the cause of the plug burning up? Would seem to make sense that to much amperage on high speed would be the cause of the plug burning up and I suspect if you just replace the plug and the resistor without identifying the cause of the plug burning the replacement plug is just going to burn up in the future as well. Another thing I noticed is leaves being able to get inside and trapped in the cabin filter only after a couple months of the previous one being replaced and suspect that if this is not cleared regularly or prevented from entering the system could cause undue strain to the blower motor, perhaps causing increase in amperage draw resulting in the burning up of the plug. In my case when I measured the amperage of the original blower motor there appeared to be a very high spike in what was being drawn on high speed so I chose to replace the blower motor which involves cutting out the original from the housing with a utility knife and screwing in the replacement to housing, also replaced the burned plug. Will get back to you if there is any further burning of the replacement plug with the new blower motor installed.
Replace them both
@@anthonynastasi4098 Yes I understand that you replaced the resistor and the burnt plug but my specific question was did you actually test the resistor to make sure it was bad or just replace it assuming it was bad? In my case with a burnt plug looking exactly like yours there was actually no damage to the resistor. I freely admit that I initially had made the assumption that the resistor was bad after seeing the burnt plug, however after testing it I found there to be no damage to it and the blower fan simply stopped working because the burnt plug was no longer making proper contact with the resistor. Also did you determine the actual cause as to why the plug connector burned so that the same problem did not subsequently occur to the new plug installation? If the blower motor is defective in drawing to much current it could result in burning up the new plug connector once again which is why after testing the current draw I ended up replacing the blower fan and the burnt connector. To those choosing to replace the blower motor be patient cutting it out at the housing seam with a utility knife as I found it to be quite a tight, tedious pain in the back process but you will be rewarded in the fact that it only takes a couple of minutes to screw in the replacement. P.S. The new blower motor did not come with the 3 screws required to install it, however you can just use the 3 screws from the old blower motor housing plate as they are the correct size 🙂
@@alcampbell512 no if it's melted connectors I replaced all parts needed to make like new
@@alcampbell512 mine was the same way.. I replaced everything, wire plug, resistor and blower fan. They lasted a week. this time the wire harness was melted BIG time... I have all new items installed again. I have yet to connect the wiring as I am trying to find the issue. It has to be in the fan control switch... Something is sending to much power/amps to the resistor causing it and the wire harness to fail. Anthony, imo hasn't identified the problem fully.
@@michaeloliver5190 So far so good for me, no problems whatsoever. At this point I really suspect that it was because of the air filter being so clogged with leaves, dust and dirt that it put such a strain on the blower system that it was the cause of the increased amperage and overheating of the wiring harness. Thanks for reminding me that I should check the air filter :)
My pigtail burnt out and now there is no power to the con connector at all 2016 Chevy Trax