I used my first Dart in November 2019 a week after it had arrived. The Dart plugged the hole which was not sealing with just the internal sealant so I plugged with a Dart. The feathers were visible for a few weeks and stayed in place until I scrapped the tyre in March 2020. It really works. You may loose pressure while you are fitting the Dart so always carry a pump to top up. P'S the handle of the Dart tool contains a valve core remover.
@@JWKEL88 the valve core remover is in the end of the silver handle which covers the non working end of the insertion tool. It's only plastic but have not found it to slip yet when taking out a valve core.. In recent punctures I have had flint punctures which would not seal by themselves but used one of the feathers from the dart plug pushed into the hole with a reamer tool. This gives you alot more small puncture fixes for your 20 dollars .
I've never got this to insert without breaking the applicator tip. The dart end up sitting flat on the tire without sealing in properly. I've tried 5 times and all failed. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. It was angled perpendicular to the tire when inserted. I'm using the Schwalbe Pro One TLE tire 28c. Any other tips would be appreciated.
Ah mate, I feel for you! I'm sorry you've had so many problems with the Dart. Wish I could show you how I do it in person. Perhaps the local bike shop you purchased the Dart from could have some tips. My thoughts would be 1. Be sure the hole is large enough for the dart tip to punch through the tyre. If the hole isn't, the possibility of breaking the dart tip is greater. 2. If the hole can be plugged with the sealant only, then don't try to put a dart plug in. 3. Use Stan's Race Sealant, not just the normal (Stan's Tire Sealant). Perhaps you'll have a greater chance of sealing the hole. The crystals or fiber in the race sealant is larger than the normal sealant. It is more expensive but maybe this will do it for you. I've used other sealants, which have also worked, but I've come to trust the race sealant by Stan's the most. 4. Once you've plugged the hole with the dart plug, be sure to turn the wheel at the 6 o'clock position for the sealant to seal the dart plug. You have to work this position and shake the tyre for a minute or two to give it a chance to seal the hole. 5. When you push the dart tip through the hole, be sure the tyre is only partially inflated. You don't want to try to push the dart tip when the tyre is full inflated or else the tip could break. At the same rate, don't have the tyre completely flat either - this could punch a hole in your tube tape. Hope you'll have better success with the Dart. Learning how to ride with tubeless tyres has a learning curve. Give yourself time and be patient with it. Once you have a system worked out, then you'll feel better about going tubeless.
Very good pointers. I had a hole that was 3mm or so and it would not seal with sealant, it blew out. I tried the dart but the hole is too small. I ended up pushing the cloth material into the hole without the dart tip. It sealed the tire then. Good tip about having the tire half inflated too.
@@TalesfromtheGreenway similar problem , guess my hole was too small and tip went in, but dart part dropped out. I was bit creative and frozen sealant with CO2 from outside
@@juhakosonen4185 I gave up on darts, especially for 28mm, I tried the more traditional tire plugs and that didn't work well. It just made a buldgle. The only thing that worked for me on a 28mm vittoria corsa was a traditional inner tube patch from the inside. Still holding well, but honestly I wouldn't bother with all the hastle if I had to do it again I'd be back on tubes.
this may apply more to thicker tread tires (such as motorcycle tires) but MAY also be applicable to bicycle tires. It's important to know the TRACK PATH of the injury to the tire. You'd think that all punctures are perpendicular to the tire surface but at least in thicker tires, that's RARE -- most punctures enter the tire AT AN ANGLE so the track to the inside of the tire is not "straight in" from the outside. I use a very thin plastic "probe" to "inspect" the track to know exactly where the track is (such as angle) so that when I insert a tool into the puncture site it goes along the track. Some of these "dart like plug kits" are sharp enough to actually create a SECOND TRACK that is alongside the original track especially if the original track is off axis. Again, this may not be common in very thin bike tires, but it's certainly something that occurs in motorcycle and auto tires.
I ride alot. The Stans dart applicator is worthless. It breaks too easily. The slightest bit out of column while pushing in plug will snap the cheap plastic stem. This is on continental gp 5000s.This has happened to me three times . I ended up trimming off the slotted end of a bacon strip metal applicator. Works perfect. Same size container and the stans plugs fit perfectly. Also, the stans plugs stops the air leak but still fluid oozes out.
Possibly a dumb question... say you get a flat tire, is it always easy to determine where the hole is? I know with tubes sometimes it’s really hard to locate the leak. Thanks for the video.
When using tubeless tyres with sealant, it's actually easier to find because some of the liquid (usually white) will leak out and mark the spot for you :)
@@fredthms That's exactly right. You will most likely see the air leak because the sealant is spraying out. When you find the leak, turn the wheel so the hole is at the 6:00 position for the sealant to do it's job and fill up the hole. If the hole does not plug up with the sealant and continues to leak then it means the hole is too large for the sealant to completely plug the hole. This is when I use the Dart Tool. The Dart tip must then be punched through the hole, sometimes this requires considerable force as the Dart plug is larger than the hole. Just hold the Dart tool steady and push it through the tire til you hear an audible "pop" indicating the plug is now inside the tire. Pull it out. Turn the wheel so the hole is at the 6:00 position. Add more air to your tire as needed. When you don't hear or see it leaking air or sealant anymore then your hole has been successfully plugged. Now you can ride!
Dennis it's not a problem finding hole in tyre, sealant generally squirts out quite liberally, I have had my sunnies covered in a fine spray of sealant from front tyre puncture and you can normally hear the sealant squirting out so it is easy to locate hole.
If the tyre has gone down and no obvious hole pump up to listen carefully for leak. The sealant could have all gone as I found out today as I helped a passing cyclist, or it could have been frozen by the co2 he was using to inflate. Once we found the hole the Dart fixed it and he made it home without needing to use a tube. Note. Check sealant regularly as it dries out over several months.
Sorry for the late response. Yes, once the dart is in place, it is in the tyre permanently. You can leave it in place. However if you really want to remove the dart once it's been plugged (which) I have done, you can remove it. Then just patch up the hole with a tyre patch. No problem.
So how do you get that thick race sealant into your tires? I'd love to use it but am def not going to be breaking tire beads every time I have to add selant. Anyone know of a syringe for thick sealants?
Thanks for the video, a question re the Race Sealant - I've been struggling with normal Stans sealant not totally sealing holes of 4mm or so and wonder whether the higher pressure (80psi) of a road tyre is the problem. Stans say the Race Sealant is able to seal larger holes which you would imagine would also help dealing with higher pressure. What are your thoughts? Also, Stans say Race Sealant needs to be checked every 2 weeks - are you finding maintenance an issue?
Hi been using stans race sealant on all my bikes, MTB Gravel and Road. Normally replace every 6 months always sealed any punctures without issue. Stan’s will say this to sell more sealant.
I use the Stan's Race Sealant as opposed to the Standard Tire Sealant by Stan's. In my experience, I've had better success with my tires sealing a leak with the Race Sealant. I've used the standard tire sealant but not with as much success as the racing sealant. I think this is because there is a higher content of fiber and sealing crystals in the race fluids. As far as maintenance, I've only added what I've lost. I probably should changed it more often but I only refill what I've lost. I haven't had any problems doing it this way. In the summer during hot conditions, I'll check it more regularly. www.notubes.com/stan-s-race-sealant-quart
I've tried them all, and Orange Endurance is currently the best sealant you can get. Stans Race is good, but if you get the larger bottle and use the initial amount and save the rest for a few weeks it tends to develop clots. These clots make it impossible to inject sealant thru the air-valve, so you have to crack the bead open and pour it into the tire which usually makes a big mess. To fix that problem I keep a small amount netting material (the type they use to make ballerina Tutu s) and filter out the clots so you and inject the sealant thru the air valve. On the other hand, Orange and Orange Endurance does not clot up.
I think the Dart Tool will work with other sealants. I recommend to use Stan's as this seems to give the best results and recommended by the Dart Tool. However you can use other sealants but recognize that it may not work or seal as well. The high fiber content in Stan's works really well with the Dart Tool. I've used Orange Seal Cycling's sealant. It works but just not as good as Stan's.
I just had my first flat with tubeless!! today. and got stranded.. tire went comepletrly FLAT( dime size gash)... ok question if i had this dart tool will it fixed it? ALSO you if it did plug the hole can you get air back without a "co2 cartridge" are you sayin that i can plug a good size whole and the tire will inflate back some air without needing a c02? i do NOT have stans sealant in there just orange seal will it still work?
Hey mate! That's quite a large gash. If the hole is truly the size of a US Dime that would mean it's about 1/2 inch or 10 mm in diameter. In this situation, the Dart tool would not patch up that hole. You would have to create a hack by using a bank note, a business card, a cut-up piece of inner tube or an Uber ride to get home. Then you would have to patch it up yourself or via the local bike shop. If the gash were smaller, say 5 mm or 1/4 inch diameter, then I would use the Dart Tool. I believe it would patch that up. Be sure to turn the wheel to the 6 o'clock position for the hole to seal up with sealant and stop the leak. Once the plug is in, you can use a hand pump to get air back in. No problems do do this. A CO2 cartridge could also work if you have one. Orange Seal should do the job. However, I would still recommend to use Stan's Race Sealant if you can (not Stan's Tire Sealant).
@@shemaguilacycling7645 so use a hand pump rather a c02 ? i hear a mini pump woudl not pump it up....BUT my question was CAN it seal back up with air IF the hole was 1/4 inch or less. ok example im stranded hole was 1/4 inch or slee i use the dart tool BUT do NOT have a c02 or a hand pump will it inflate back still? from your experience and get me back home... and what uber XL? lol rhey have a bike rack? and i now have bontrager r3 tires dont know what sealant they use?
@@annukun7318 My experience has been to use a hand pump. It's worked for me. However, if you the luxury to have a CO2 cartridge then use that. It should do the job. I believe it should seal up a hole of 1/4 inch size. It's not been my experience but I would certainly try. The tyre should inflate re-inflate back up. Mine have without any problems. Hope this answers your question.
@@shemaguilacycling7645 the tire should inflate back up with NO c02 or handpump? ALSO why try to plug a small and pump it hole after all the sealant should seal UNLESS it is totally flat
@@shemaguilacycling7645 the sealant trek used is BONTRAGER TLR..... dont know if its latex based or not. BUT the mehanic said deosnt matter waht selant you use all your doing is PLUGGING A HOLE and than filling it back with air and the selant will take care of the rest. HE was confused and how it the plug would not work wth their selant and not fill it up?? as long as i plug the whole correctly and have emough sealant right? can you tell me
Tried to use this today but couldn’t get it through the tire hole before it snapped. Twice over.... expensive at £25.00 for two. Not sure what I was doing wrong ????
Sorry to hear that you had a bad experience. Were you pushing the dart at an angle? If so, this may have been the reason why it snapped. The dart must be perpendicular to the tyre when pushing it through.
For small holes which sealant won't fix I pushed one of the 6 feathers from the dart into the hole with a small reamer which I used to fix mtb tyres. Some tyres have thick rubber and vectran layer which is too difficult to push the whole dart in but one feather seems to work....and it's 6 times cheaper as you get 6 feathers per dart. I have found this useful on flint, glass
Common problem with Stan’s Dart tool is that the rod used to push the dart into the tire is plastic and breaks fairly easily rendering the tool useless.
Do you need the tyre still partially inflated in order to fit the dart? Otherwise I guess there’s not enough room between tyre and rim for the dart to go into? Are these better than plugs in your opinion. I’ve just got a new bike with tubeless road tyres so trying to get my head round it and don’t fancy carrying tubes with me!
Sorry for the late response as I didn't see your comment straight away. Yes, ideally if the tyre is still partially inflated it will make the dart go in more easily. However, if the tyre is completely flat, I assume you could still push the dart through although with a bit more effort. When the tyre is still partially inflated the rubber is more stretched out and the puncture more exposed thus making it easier to push the dart through.
@@boogiexx Tyre size: 700 x 28 Weight: 70 kilos. I usually inflate the rear to 6.5 bar and the front to 6 bar. Do you have any recommendations? What should my tyre pressure be for my weight?
@@shemaguilacycling7645 according to calculator as low as 53 PSI front and 57 PSI rear to 63 PSI front 67 PSI back , that's a lot lower then you used to inflate them, this should provide much more comfort without loosing too much roiling resistance, now play with this number adding about 5psi if it's too low and find what works best for you and roads you're driving on. The whole point of having tubeless set up/beside quick and easy repair is ability to lower the tire pressure whiteout sacrificing rolling resistance.
@@boogiexx This is good to know. The person at the bike shop recommended to fill my tyres at approximately 80 PSI. Therefore I've stuck to that number give or take a few. Thank you for your recommendation. I will certainly look into it and perhaps run lower pressures.
Got my Dart kit a few days ago, had to use it out on the road today had a small gash halfway up the sidewall of rear tyre, put the Dart in as you described put the hole to the bottom for a few seconds, pumped up tyre again and presto finished my ride. I've tried the strips and Dynaplugs but these Stans Darts are by far the easiest and best plugs available. Cheers David C. (Thanks again for your great video).
I'm still riding with inner tubes but use the Slime Smart Tubes which instantly plug any punctures as you ride along. I've never had a flat for years and don't have to suffer all this nonsense.
Tubeless was invented to keep money puring in and the tech heads think they have advanced your still carrying a tube do you not see the irony and all that kit you still need co2 and a pump way to much stuff to carry for me also hand pump isn't always enough for tubeless bother is 1x can of co2
Stay away from this. Totally useless. Instead of actually getting into the tire, the "fabric" falls of the small plastic arrow. Tried 6 of them, did not work.
I used my first Dart in November 2019 a week after it had arrived. The Dart plugged the hole which was not sealing with just the internal sealant so I plugged with a Dart. The feathers were visible for a few weeks and stayed in place until I scrapped the tyre in March 2020. It really works. You may loose pressure while you are fitting the Dart so always carry a pump to top up. P'S the handle of the Dart tool contains a valve core remover.
Right on! Glad it worked for you too! Yes, I finally discovered the valve core remover🙂.
Hi sorry, where’s the valve core remover on the handle? Is there any video on how it works?
@@JWKEL88 the valve core remover is in the end of the silver handle which covers the non working end of the insertion tool. It's only plastic but have not found it to slip yet when taking out a valve core.. In recent punctures I have had flint punctures which would not seal by themselves but used one of the feathers from the dart plug pushed into the hole with a reamer tool. This gives you alot more small puncture fixes for your 20 dollars .
@@peterbee8892 wow thank you so much for your help and tips! Will try on it when I have puncture tyre but hopefully not so soon
I've never got this to insert without breaking the applicator tip. The dart end up sitting flat on the tire without sealing in properly. I've tried 5 times and all failed. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. It was angled perpendicular to the tire when inserted. I'm using the Schwalbe Pro One TLE tire 28c. Any other tips would be appreciated.
Ah mate, I feel for you! I'm sorry you've had so many problems with the Dart. Wish I could show you how I do it in person. Perhaps the local bike shop you purchased the Dart from could have some tips. My thoughts would be 1. Be sure the hole is large enough for the dart tip to punch through the tyre. If the hole isn't, the possibility of breaking the dart tip is greater. 2. If the hole can be plugged with the sealant only, then don't try to put a dart plug in. 3. Use Stan's Race Sealant, not just the normal (Stan's Tire Sealant). Perhaps you'll have a greater chance of sealing the hole. The crystals or fiber in the race sealant is larger than the normal sealant. It is more expensive but maybe this will do it for you. I've used other sealants, which have also worked, but I've come to trust the race sealant by Stan's the most. 4. Once you've plugged the hole with the dart plug, be sure to turn the wheel at the 6 o'clock position for the sealant to seal the dart plug. You have to work this position and shake the tyre for a minute or two to give it a chance to seal the hole. 5. When you push the dart tip through the hole, be sure the tyre is only partially inflated. You don't want to try to push the dart tip when the tyre is full inflated or else the tip could break. At the same rate, don't have the tyre completely flat either - this could punch a hole in your tube tape. Hope you'll have better success with the Dart. Learning how to ride with tubeless tyres has a learning curve. Give yourself time and be patient with it. Once you have a system worked out, then you'll feel better about going tubeless.
Very good pointers. I had a hole that was 3mm or so and it would not seal with sealant, it blew out. I tried the dart but the hole is too small. I ended up pushing the cloth material into the hole without the dart tip. It sealed the tire then. Good tip about having the tire half inflated too.
@@TalesfromtheGreenway similar problem , guess my hole was too small and tip went in, but dart part dropped out. I was bit creative and frozen sealant with CO2 from outside
@@juhakosonen4185 I gave up on darts, especially for 28mm, I tried the more traditional tire plugs and that didn't work well. It just made a buldgle. The only thing that worked for me on a 28mm vittoria corsa was a traditional inner tube patch from the inside. Still holding well, but honestly I wouldn't bother with all the hastle if I had to do it again I'd be back on tubes.
this may apply more to thicker tread tires (such as motorcycle tires) but MAY also be applicable to bicycle tires. It's important to know the TRACK PATH of the injury to the tire. You'd think that all punctures are perpendicular to the tire surface but at least in thicker tires, that's RARE -- most punctures enter the tire AT AN ANGLE so the track to the inside of the tire is not "straight in" from the outside. I use a very thin plastic "probe" to "inspect" the track to know exactly where the track is (such as angle) so that when I insert a tool into the puncture site it goes along the track. Some of these "dart like plug kits" are sharp enough to actually create a SECOND TRACK that is alongside the original track especially if the original track is off axis. Again, this may not be common in very thin bike tires, but it's certainly something that occurs in motorcycle and auto tires.
I ride alot. The Stans dart applicator is worthless. It breaks too easily. The slightest bit out of column while pushing in plug will snap the cheap plastic stem. This is on continental gp 5000s.This has happened to me three times . I ended up trimming off the slotted end of a bacon strip metal applicator. Works perfect. Same size container and the stans plugs fit perfectly. Also, the stans plugs stops the air leak but still fluid oozes out.
Advertisement for Stan’s😏
Possibly a dumb question... say you get a flat tire, is it always easy to determine where the hole is? I know with tubes sometimes it’s really hard to locate the leak. Thanks for the video.
When using tubeless tyres with sealant, it's actually easier to find because some of the liquid (usually white) will leak out and mark the spot for you :)
@@fredthms That's exactly right. You will most likely see the air leak because the sealant is spraying out. When you find the leak, turn the wheel so the hole is at the 6:00 position for the sealant to do it's job and fill up the hole. If the hole does not plug up with the sealant and continues to leak then it means the hole is too large for the sealant to completely plug the hole. This is when I use the Dart Tool. The Dart tip must then be punched through the hole, sometimes this requires considerable force as the Dart plug is larger than the hole. Just hold the Dart tool steady and push it through the tire til you hear an audible "pop" indicating the plug is now inside the tire. Pull it out. Turn the wheel so the hole is at the 6:00 position. Add more air to your tire as needed. When you don't hear or see it leaking air or sealant anymore then your hole has been successfully plugged. Now you can ride!
Dennis it's not a problem finding hole in tyre, sealant generally squirts out quite liberally, I have had my sunnies covered in a fine spray of sealant from front tyre puncture and you can normally hear the sealant squirting out so it is easy to locate hole.
If the tyre has gone down and no obvious hole pump up to listen carefully for leak. The sealant could have all gone as I found out today as I helped a passing cyclist, or it could have been frozen by the co2 he was using to inflate. Once we found the hole the Dart fixed it and he made it home without needing to use a tube. Note. Check sealant regularly as it dries out over several months.
Will the tyre seal for good? Or is it a temp. fix? BTW, Nice Vivaldi playing in the background
Sorry for the late response. Yes, once the dart is in place, it is in the tyre permanently. You can leave it in place. However if you really want to remove the dart once it's been plugged (which) I have done, you can remove it. Then just patch up the hole with a tyre patch. No problem.
Yes, the classical piece being played in the background is from one of my children. They're practicing the violin.
@@shemaguilacycling7645 thanks for the reply, I've yet to try it out, hopefully not on my bike
@@shemaguilacycling7645 both my favorite hobbies, cycling and violin
@@itiswhatitis9089 Yeah, they're learning the violin using the Suzuki method. It's great!
So how do you get that thick race sealant into your tires? I'd love to use it but am def not going to be breaking tire beads every time I have to add selant. Anyone know of a syringe for thick sealants?
Thanks for the video, a question re the Race Sealant - I've been struggling with normal Stans sealant not totally sealing holes of 4mm or so and wonder whether the higher pressure (80psi) of a road tyre is the problem. Stans say the Race Sealant is able to seal larger holes which you would imagine would also help dealing with higher pressure. What are your thoughts? Also, Stans say Race Sealant needs to be checked every 2 weeks - are you finding maintenance an issue?
Hi been using stans race sealant on all my bikes, MTB Gravel and Road. Normally replace every 6 months always sealed any punctures without issue. Stan’s will say this to sell more sealant.
I use the Stan's Race Sealant as opposed to the Standard Tire Sealant by Stan's. In my experience, I've had better success with my tires sealing a leak with the Race Sealant. I've used the standard tire sealant but not with as much success as the racing sealant. I think this is because there is a higher content of fiber and sealing crystals in the race fluids. As far as maintenance, I've only added what I've lost. I probably should changed it more often but I only refill what I've lost. I haven't had any problems doing it this way. In the summer during hot conditions, I'll check it more regularly.
www.notubes.com/stan-s-race-sealant-quart
I've tried them all, and Orange Endurance is currently the best sealant you can get. Stans Race is good, but if you get the larger bottle and use the initial amount and save the rest for a few weeks it tends to develop clots. These clots make it impossible to inject sealant thru the air-valve, so you have to crack the bead open and pour it into the tire which usually makes a big mess. To fix that problem I keep a small amount netting material (the type they use to make ballerina Tutu s) and filter out the clots so you and inject the sealant thru the air valve. On the other hand, Orange and Orange Endurance does not clot up.
Great video thanks. I have a new tubeless road bike and not sure what type of sealant it contains. Will Dart work with other brands do you think?
I think the Dart Tool will work with other sealants. I recommend to use Stan's as this seems to give the best results and recommended by the Dart Tool. However you can use other sealants but recognize that it may not work or seal as well. The high fiber content in Stan's works really well with the Dart Tool. I've used Orange Seal Cycling's sealant. It works but just not as good as Stan's.
@@shemaguilacycling7645 Thank you for your reply!
@@alidalagrange4998 You're most welcome!
I just had my first flat with tubeless!! today. and got stranded.. tire went comepletrly FLAT( dime size gash)... ok question if i had this dart tool will it fixed it? ALSO you if it did plug the hole can you get air back without a "co2 cartridge" are you sayin that i can plug a good size whole and the tire will inflate back some air without needing a c02? i do NOT have stans sealant in there just orange seal will it still work?
Hey mate! That's quite a large gash. If the hole is truly the size of a US Dime that would mean it's about 1/2 inch or 10 mm in diameter. In this situation, the Dart tool would not patch up that hole. You would have to create a hack by using a bank note, a business card, a cut-up piece of inner tube or an Uber ride to get home. Then you would have to patch it up yourself or via the local bike shop. If the gash were smaller, say 5 mm or 1/4 inch diameter, then I would use the Dart Tool. I believe it would patch that up. Be sure to turn the wheel to the 6 o'clock position for the hole to seal up with sealant and stop the leak. Once the plug is in, you can use a hand pump to get air back in. No problems do do this. A CO2 cartridge could also work if you have one. Orange Seal should do the job. However, I would still recommend to use Stan's Race Sealant if you can (not Stan's Tire Sealant).
@@shemaguilacycling7645 so use a hand pump rather a c02 ? i hear a mini pump woudl not pump it up....BUT my question was CAN it seal back up with air IF the hole was 1/4 inch or less. ok example im stranded hole was 1/4 inch or slee i use the dart tool BUT do NOT have a c02 or a hand pump will it inflate back still? from your experience and get me back home... and what uber XL? lol rhey have a bike rack? and i now have bontrager r3 tires dont know what sealant they use?
@@annukun7318 My experience has been to use a hand pump. It's worked for me. However, if you the luxury to have a CO2 cartridge then use that. It should do the job. I believe it should seal up a hole of 1/4 inch size. It's not been my experience but I would certainly try. The tyre should inflate re-inflate back up. Mine have without any problems. Hope this answers your question.
@@shemaguilacycling7645 the tire should inflate back up with NO c02 or handpump? ALSO why try to plug a small and pump it
hole after all the sealant should seal UNLESS it is totally flat
@@shemaguilacycling7645 the sealant trek used is BONTRAGER TLR..... dont know if its latex based or not. BUT the mehanic said deosnt matter waht selant you use all your doing is PLUGGING A HOLE and than filling it back with air and the selant will take care of the rest. HE was confused and how it the plug would not work wth their selant and not fill it up?? as long as i plug the whole correctly and have emough sealant right? can you tell me
Tried to use this today but couldn’t get it through the tire hole before it snapped. Twice over.... expensive at £25.00 for two. Not sure what I was doing wrong ????
Sorry to hear that you had a bad experience. Were you pushing the dart at an angle? If so, this may have been the reason why it snapped. The dart must be perpendicular to the tyre when pushing it through.
For small holes which sealant won't fix I pushed one of the 6 feathers from the dart into the hole with a small reamer which I used to fix mtb tyres. Some tyres have thick rubber and vectran layer which is too difficult to push the whole dart in but one feather seems to work....and it's 6 times cheaper as you get 6 feathers per dart. I have found this useful on flint, glass
@@peterbee8892 great tip.
Common problem with Stan’s Dart tool is that the rod used to push the dart into the tire is plastic and breaks fairly easily rendering the tool useless.
What type of patch kit is that and tire lever?
The green tyre lever is made by Btwin - sold by Decathalon stores in Turkey and Europe. The patch kit is made by Zefal.
Do you need the tyre still partially inflated in order to fit the dart? Otherwise I guess there’s not enough room between tyre and rim for the dart to go into?
Are these better than plugs in your opinion.
I’ve just got a new bike with tubeless road tyres so trying to get my head round it and don’t fancy carrying tubes with me!
Sorry for the late response as I didn't see your comment straight away. Yes, ideally if the tyre is still partially inflated it will make the dart go in more easily. However, if the tyre is completely flat, I assume you could still push the dart through although with a bit more effort. When the tyre is still partially inflated the rubber is more stretched out and the puncture more exposed thus making it easier to push the dart through.
If you cannot see the puncture when the tyre is reflated it may have sealed using the sealant. No need for a Dart in this case.
Will this work on a tubular tires?
Are you able to re-inflate to high PSI right away?
Yes, I am able to re-inflate back up to a 85-90 PSI without issues.
@@shemaguilacycling7645 so you ride tubeless with 90 PSI ? What is your weight and tire size?
@@boogiexx Tyre size: 700 x 28 Weight: 70 kilos. I usually inflate the rear to 6.5 bar and the front to 6 bar. Do you have any recommendations? What should my tyre pressure be for my weight?
@@shemaguilacycling7645 according to calculator as low as 53 PSI front and 57 PSI rear to 63 PSI front 67 PSI back , that's a lot lower then you used to inflate them, this should provide much more comfort without loosing too much roiling resistance, now play with this number adding about 5psi if it's too low and find what works best for you and roads you're driving on. The whole point of having tubeless set up/beside quick and easy repair is ability to lower the tire pressure whiteout sacrificing rolling resistance.
@@boogiexx This is good to know. The person at the bike shop recommended to fill my tyres at approximately 80 PSI. Therefore I've stuck to that number give or take a few. Thank you for your recommendation. I will certainly look into it and perhaps run lower pressures.
Great video
Hi, is that dart a temporary or permanent fix to your tyre or should you repair the tyre from the inside?
It's a permanent fix. No need to remove the dart plug once it's in place and sealed well.
Great explanation will be my next purchase thanks for the step by step walk through.
Glad you found it helpful. Cheers!
Got my Dart kit a few days ago, had to use it out on the road today had a small gash halfway up the sidewall of rear tyre, put the Dart in as you described put the hole to the bottom for a few seconds, pumped up tyre again and presto finished my ride. I've tried the strips and Dynaplugs but these Stans Darts are by far the easiest and best plugs available. Cheers David C. (Thanks again for your great video).
I'm still riding with inner tubes but use the Slime Smart Tubes which instantly plug any punctures as you ride along. I've never had a flat for years and don't have to suffer all this nonsense.
@Phil, thanks for your comments. I'm glad to hear that the system you're using is working for you. All the best.
It is not the best repair kit. The applicator breaks quite easily. It's a useless product.
it's For real ???
Absolute crap worked first time i bought them now the fabric just falls off and wouldnt enter the tyre
all that stuff will never fit into the bottle cage tool box.
Tubeless was invented to keep money puring in and the tech heads think they have advanced your still carrying a tube do you not see the irony and all that kit you still need co2 and a pump way to much stuff to carry for me also hand pump isn't always enough for tubeless bother is 1x can of co2
Stay away from this. Totally useless. Instead of actually getting into the tire, the "fabric" falls of the small plastic arrow. Tried 6 of them, did not work.
had same experience. was told there is a new dart.