Very nice work... Can I ask how thick you are making the sections you want to light up? Especially the red areas... Guessing the black areas can just be 1mm thick, and the others are like .6? .8?
What material are you using? Also, Im assuming you have to have a 3D printer that can print with multiple colors. To avoid the printer having to be stopped and reloaded with material every time the color needs changed to do the next part?
Had a question. Seems every light box comes out the same when I print. Very nice but extremely thin face. How do I make the picture or face part thicker?
Are you designing them in cad? If so just make it thicker there. If not then in the slicer scale it in z. Turn off uniform scale so only z gets thicker.
Had a quick question, I’m getting a lot of gapping in between the different colors where they meet so that u can see the light through. Is this my layer height or something else?
@@jjrice2312 it's the initial layer line width. Set it to .035. The first layer line width is the most important thing when making a perfect faceplate. The layer hight has nothing to do with the quality of detail when printing face down, only the line width is what you see when looking at a finished light box. Hope that helps.
@@brando-commando awesome thanks for the reply, I was looking for the line width setting in prusaslicer but it’s under a different name so I’ll have to look it up, I also saw that it could help to increase the extrusion multiplier to 1.1?
@@brando-commando ok, thank you for the tip, I’m going to play around with both settings and see what I get. I’ve been printing for awhile but just getting into doing light boxes so it’s been touch and go
@@brando-commando also not sure if this is a major difference but I’m printing on a Prusa mk3s+ with the mmu3 and I’ve noticed mostly all light box videos are with the bambu setup…..
I use textured plate,.2 layer hight,.35 line width, arachny wall generator, speed: 45 and 85 on the first 2 settings. Flow rate of .98, PLA material, no auxiliary fan. I believe that's it.
@brando-commando thanks so much! I've been struggling to fill in gaps with face down prints. I will try these settings. I started playing with orca and it's settings seem to help erase the gaps in the slicer. Keep up the awesome work!
@@willlo9156 thank you. The main thing to think about with a face down print is line width. Layer hight has nothing to do with it. You could actually go .24 Layer hight and put the width at .35 to have shorter print time. If you think about it, when your looking at the faceplate you can't see the layer hight only the width.
Very nice work... Can I ask how thick you are making the sections you want to light up? Especially the red areas... Guessing the black areas can just be 1mm thick, and the others are like .6? .8?
@@rctoyguy yes .6
@@rctoyguy you can even go .4
What material are you using? Also, Im assuming you have to have a 3D printer that can print with multiple colors. To avoid the printer having to be stopped and reloaded with material every time the color needs changed to do the next part?
Pla if it's going to be indoors. Abs if it's going to be a warmer area. Yes bambu lab x1 carbon
Had a question. Seems every light box comes out the same when I print. Very nice but extremely thin face. How do I make the picture or face part thicker?
Are you designing them in cad? If so just make it thicker there. If not then in the slicer scale it in z. Turn off uniform scale so only z gets thicker.
Had a quick question, I’m getting a lot of gapping in between the different colors where they meet so that u can see the light through. Is this my layer height or something else?
@@jjrice2312 it's the initial layer line width. Set it to .035. The first layer line width is the most important thing when making a perfect faceplate. The layer hight has nothing to do with the quality of detail when printing face down, only the line width is what you see when looking at a finished light box. Hope that helps.
@@brando-commando awesome thanks for the reply, I was looking for the line width setting in prusaslicer but it’s under a different name so I’ll have to look it up, I also saw that it could help to increase the extrusion multiplier to 1.1?
@@jjrice2312 yea that could help but could also cause over extrusion. The highest I go on that is 1.0 but mine is set at .98 n it's perfect.
@@brando-commando ok, thank you for the tip, I’m going to play around with both settings and see what I get. I’ve been printing for awhile but just getting into doing light boxes so it’s been touch and go
@@brando-commando also not sure if this is a major difference but I’m printing on a Prusa mk3s+ with the mmu3 and I’ve noticed mostly all light box videos are with the bambu setup…..
Hi, these look great! Is it possible to share your settings and what plate you use?
I use textured plate,.2 layer hight,.35 line width, arachny wall generator, speed: 45 and 85 on the first 2 settings. Flow rate of .98, PLA material, no auxiliary fan. I believe that's it.
@brando-commando thanks so much! I've been struggling to fill in gaps with face down prints. I will try these settings. I started playing with orca and it's settings seem to help erase the gaps in the slicer. Keep up the awesome work!
@@willlo9156 thank you. The main thing to think about with a face down print is line width. Layer hight has nothing to do with it. You could actually go .24 Layer hight and put the width at .35 to have shorter print time. If you think about it, when your looking at the faceplate you can't see the layer hight only the width.
@@brando-commando thanks! I will keep that in mind for sure!
@brando-commando are you using a 0.4 or 0.2 nozzle?
Hello, I have a question: How can I prevent holes along the letters?
@@AndrevanElten make line width .035
0.035? If 0.35?
@@AndrevanElten my bad yes. .35 on the first layer. And use Anarchy wall generator.
what LED strips you use?
There from 5 below. Not sure the brand I'll look later this evening
Which machine?
Bambu lab x1 carbon
0:44 0:44
“and, and,…cool
where do I buy?
Contact me on Facebook or messenger plz. My name is Brandon Krenzke. I can make pretty much anything you can think of.