I found your channel by accident but it is fun to watch. Good to know that there are still people using hairy stick for painting, not only airbrush and I am not as crazy as all modellers around me try to make me believe. So thanks for putting them here :) BTW - if you want to get 100% brush, then you can brush Tamiya Primer sold in bottles, thinned 2:1 (thinner:primer) with their Lacquer Thinner. It goes down very nicely. As for issues with Tamiya Paints: you need then thinned with dedicated thinner. While they can be thinned with water due to regulations in US and UE regarding kid toys it is still a lacquer paint, not true acrylics. With multiple layers the new one is reacting with previous one creating a mess. So use X-20A and, as stupid as it may sound, do not thin it too much. For Gundams I use 3:1 or 4:1 (paint:thinner) depending on color and 1 layer is enough to cover naked plastic (no primer)m no brush strokes and it sticks. For planes I thin more (2:1) as I want at least two layers for some shading and color blending on edges and solvent in paint helps with it but you need to be really careful with multiple layers. Tamiyas are cool paints and give great finish, but sometimes I wonder if they are worth pain when brushed. Still I have a lot left from airbrush times so I use them :)
@@brushpaintedmodels7086 I have had 2 airbrushes , 1 I gave away (to an artist !) and the other went in the bin ! I prefer to brush , I use Humbrol enamels ( the only stuff I can buy locally .) and have taken to spraying on a coat of grey primer ,because I was filling in the panel lines . I love camo , particularly the hard-edge splinter variety ! ( as you can see on my channel .)
Vallego sells an Air War Color Series kit for USAF aircraft with the gray schemes from the 1970s' to the present . . . . . and include the three different tone grays used on the F-16. The kit comes with a total of 7 different tones of gray plus a primer. I bought a kit at Hobby Lobby for $ 17.
Oh my friend, your videos very useful for me, i can buy airbrush but this way of painting not interesting me ,only brush painting. You did great job, my congratulations. 👍👍👍🤝
Lot of the time I will use spray paint cans to apply the base color such as olive drab for tanks and grey primer for airplanes, then use brush paint as a second coat. The AK and Vallejo paints lay down very well with very few brush marks. I use real high quality red sable brushes, they also clean up very well when used with acrylic paint, they get all gummed up with enamel and lacquer, I usually use an air brush or spray cans for car and motorcycle models for the high gloss look, But brush painting saves a lot of time from having to clean an air brush also from having to do a lot of masking for spray paint.
If you brush paint tamiya paint, either buy x-20 thinner or use isopropyl alcohol and thin it 1:1, since tamiya paint is a solvent based paint. Either way, you made a very nice model!
Perfect model! Something about brush painting Tamiya: i have painted MiG-27 by Zvezda with Tamiya XF-80 without thinner and panel lines are good-visible. Interesting fact: you can thin Tamiya with water when brush painting. It's strange with your Tamiya Neutral Gray...
Good job, but here is some information for you, all American fighter jets from mid 1970's to now have their afterburners coated in Cobalt White heat coatings, and the after burners prior to the 1970's are usually either Cobalt Green J79's or Cobalt Gray (almost like a Gunship Gray) but a good Green to use is the U.S. Interior Greens or Zinc Chromate Green, also on the nose of your F-16 you accidentally cut off the Angle Of Attack (AOA) Probes, they where those very pointed bits next to the Sprue Gates. If you need any more questions answered on the F-16 Lawn Dart, I worked 8 years on them while in the U.S.A.F. plus I'm also the aviation historian for the Airman's Heritage Museum at Lackland AFB.
Hey man. Your technique is great and I would like some tips. What would you suggest in general, and what would you suggest I use as a filler so that it is non toxic? I have just started becoming more serious with my scale models. Thanks
I like the Tamiya putty I am using. It dries fast, and you can fill any gap with it. It is rock hard after drying so you can sand it. But it stinks. You have to open the window while using it. If you are looking for something odourless, then try Vallejos Plastic Putty. It is water soluble. But dries slowly and is not the best option to fill large gaps, or for sanding. Maybe there are some better options out there, I have experience with only these 2 products.
I highly recommend Vallejo plastic putty, apply putty to the said gap and then take a damp cotton swab and run it along. The putty will go down into the gap and the excess wiped away, leaving a perfect filled gap, but like he said it’s not great for large gaps, thus I use TAMIYA putty. I use both personally
Hi! Just stumbled into your video, wish I can paint brush my model like yours. Really nice I say...keep up the good job. Wish I can starting back to this hobby after long long leave.
If you want to remove Tamiya paints, just use Isopropyl Alcohol, it will come off right away. Vallejo and Hataka (blue line) are excellent brush paint brands.
Very nice job! I was wondering if you hand paint out of a dry palette, wet palette, or from a cup with paint/thinner mix? Do you thin your primer coat in 50/50 ratio also? In your opinion, what paint is easiest to brush paint for consistent coverage? Thanks.
I use a dry palette. Paint + thinner mix in 1:1 ratio. For primer I use a spray. I find the best for brush painting water based acrylic paints, like Vallejo Model Color or Revell Aqua.
Thanks! I tried to apply Vallejos Surface Primer 73.615 with a brush, but I was not satisfied with the result. The end result with Tamiyas Spray is much better. Maybe in the future I will experiment a bit with handbrushing primers.
Vallejo would have worked better for sure. But I did not have that color back then. But I used a wrong thinner with that Tamiya paint, probably that caused my struggle. Will try again in future.
Yes I use a thinner. ca. 1:1 ratio with the paint. I use Vallejos Thinner Medium No. 70.524 because I use mostly Vallejos model color. These are water based acrylics, you can use this thinner with Revell Aqua, or Italeris acrylic as well. But all paint manufacturers have their own thinners. Water based acrylic paints are mixable, and their thinner interchangeable. But be careful with solvent based acrylics like Tamiya or Mr. Hobby. You have to use their own thinner, in case of Tamiya X20A. I can not recommend using water as a thinner, if you add to much, the paint will "fall apart".
Paper towel with some enamel thinner. Check in my newer builds. For wash I use ready made enamel ones, or mix oil paint with enamel thinner or white spirit.
i am much more carefull than you in the paint work but my models dont come out as good as yours.Is this because of my bad color preparation? i recently starte d using acrylic paints (air color) and water as thinner
Add a thinner into the paint. ca 1:1 ratio for water based acrylics. And use fine synthetic brushes ( I prefer filbert brush). If still not satisfied, you can try to polish the surface.
Hello. Please can you tell me how did you paint the landing gear shafts (white) ,what color did you use for it , and how many layers did it take? I am a paint brusher too,and this is always a problem to me. Thank you, I like your video.
Hi Tomas. You are not alone, I have the same problem with white paints. It's a nightmare to paint white color with a brush. I bought a Tamiya white primer in a spray can, and I just spray the primer on it. 3X. That's how I did it on this model, no white painting at all. It's much better. Hope it helps.
@@brushpaintedmodels7086 thank you for the answer. And do you use any varnish after the paint job, for example gloss one before aplying decals or to protect paint before aplying enamel wash? (in my case acrylic Humbrol satin / gloss varnish) In one video of yours I saw aplying enamel wash to an acrylic color layer...
Yes, I do apply gloss varnish after painting (before applying decals). Then another coat when decals applied. I use enamel wash, because enamel thinner ( when removing excess wash) doesn't harm your acrylic paint. Then at the end when everything is finished, I apply a final coat of varnish. Satin or matt. It depends, which suits the plane better.
The small ones are Tamiya brushes. The bigger ones are synthetic artist brushes. Brand doesn't matter that much, what you can get in your local artist shop or online.
![[ENG cc] Building the IDF F-16 "Sufa" Hasegawa 1:72 aircraft model kit](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/i0KBD7gVscI/mqdefault.jpg)
![[ENG cc] Building the IDF F-16 "Sufa" Hasegawa 1:72 aircraft model kit](/img/tr.png)
As a brush painter myself,I use enamels for light colours and acrylic for dark colours,thus eliminating the need for multiple coats.
will try in future...
Good to know
I just started scale modeling last year and use brush
I found your channel by accident but it is fun to watch. Good to know that there are still people using hairy stick for painting, not only airbrush and I am not as crazy as all modellers around me try to make me believe. So thanks for putting them here :)
BTW - if you want to get 100% brush, then you can brush Tamiya Primer sold in bottles, thinned 2:1 (thinner:primer) with their Lacquer Thinner. It goes down very nicely.
As for issues with Tamiya Paints: you need then thinned with dedicated thinner. While they can be thinned with water due to regulations in US and UE regarding kid toys it is still a lacquer paint, not true acrylics. With multiple layers the new one is reacting with previous one creating a mess. So use X-20A and, as stupid as it may sound, do not thin it too much. For Gundams I use 3:1 or 4:1 (paint:thinner) depending on color and 1 layer is enough to cover naked plastic (no primer)m no brush strokes and it sticks. For planes I thin more (2:1) as I want at least two layers for some shading and color blending on edges and solvent in paint helps with it but you need to be really careful with multiple layers. Tamiyas are cool paints and give great finish, but sometimes I wonder if they are worth pain when brushed. Still I have a lot left from airbrush times so I use them :)
Thank you for sharing your experience! I will definitely try that Tamiya primer for brushing. Happy modeling!
Glad to see someone brush painting , can't be many of us out there !
Glad to hear there are others too.
@@brushpaintedmodels7086 I have had 2 airbrushes , 1 I gave away (to an artist !) and the other went in the bin ! I prefer to brush , I use Humbrol enamels ( the only stuff I can buy locally .) and have taken to spraying on a coat of grey primer ,because I was filling in the panel lines . I love camo , particularly the hard-edge splinter variety ! ( as you can see on my channel .)
I served in that squadron and worked on that aircraft. You have done a great job.
Wow! Nice to hear that. Thanks a lot!
Nice work. I'm about to restart painting an old Hasegawa 1/72 F-16N that's been a shelf/storage queen for nearly 30 years! 😁
Thanks and good luck!
Very impressive skills. It shows that good results could always be with an brush. Amazing work
Thanks! 👍
Great video. I learn a great deal from watching these videos, e.g. using masking tape around the putty, but so much more. Kudos and thanks.
Awesome! Thanks!
The model looks great! Thanks for sharing this.
Thanks!
Fantastic job mate,well done 👍🏻
Thanks 👍
Vallego sells an Air War Color Series kit for USAF aircraft with the gray schemes from the 1970s' to the present . . . . . and include the three different tone grays used on the F-16. The kit comes with a total of 7 different tones of gray plus a primer. I bought a kit at Hobby Lobby for $ 17.
Yes, but those are airbrush optimized paints. I don't know if they are any good for brush painting. Haven't tried them yet.
Oh my friend, your videos very useful for me, i can buy airbrush but this way of painting not interesting me ,only brush painting. You did great job, my congratulations. 👍👍👍🤝
Thank you! I'm glad you like them!
Lot of the time I will use spray paint cans to apply the base color such as olive drab for tanks and grey primer for airplanes, then use brush paint as a second coat. The AK and Vallejo paints lay down very well with very few brush marks. I use real high quality red sable brushes, they also clean up very well when used with acrylic paint, they get all gummed up with enamel and lacquer, I usually use an air brush or spray cans for car and motorcycle models for the high gloss look, But brush painting saves a lot of time from having to clean an air brush also from having to do a lot of masking for spray paint.
If you brush paint tamiya paint, either buy x-20 thinner or use isopropyl alcohol and thin it 1:1, since tamiya paint is a solvent based paint. Either way, you made a very nice model!
Thanks for the advise! I will try it out. I assume you mean X-20A, because X-20 is an enamel thinner, and I need to thin acrylic paint.
Great help for a beginner like me. 👍👍👍
Glad to hear that!
Falcon Looks great 👍
Thanks!
beautifully done.. thanks for sharing
Thanks!
Games Workshop says incease that model price by x4 well done man f16 is awsome
nice model of F-16 CJ, stay healthy !
Thanks! 👍
Perfect model! Something about brush painting Tamiya: i have painted MiG-27 by Zvezda with Tamiya XF-80 without thinner and panel lines are good-visible. Interesting fact: you can thin Tamiya with water when brush painting. It's strange with your Tamiya Neutral Gray...
Thanks. I probably messed up the thinner with that paint. Will have try again in future. I use quite often X-10 from Tamiya, that one brushes nicely.
wish your channel a good luck!
Thank you so much!👍
Good job, but here is some information for you, all American fighter jets from mid 1970's to now have their afterburners coated in Cobalt White heat coatings, and the after burners prior to the 1970's are usually either Cobalt Green J79's or Cobalt Gray (almost like a Gunship Gray) but a good Green to use is the U.S. Interior Greens or Zinc Chromate Green, also on the nose of your F-16 you accidentally cut off the Angle Of Attack (AOA) Probes, they where those very pointed bits next to the Sprue Gates.
If you need any more questions answered on the F-16 Lawn Dart, I worked 8 years on them while in the U.S.A.F. plus I'm also the aviation historian for the Airman's Heritage Museum at Lackland AFB.
Thanks for the detailed info. You are right with the probes, I did not even realize I cut them off.
Hey man. Your technique is great and I would like some tips. What would you suggest in general, and what would you suggest I use as a filler so that it is non toxic? I have just started becoming more serious with my scale models. Thanks
I like the Tamiya putty I am using. It dries fast, and you can fill any gap with it. It is rock hard after drying so you can sand it. But it stinks. You have to open the window while using it. If you are looking for something odourless, then try Vallejos Plastic Putty. It is water soluble. But dries slowly and is not the best option to fill large gaps, or for sanding.
Maybe there are some better options out there, I have experience with only these 2 products.
I highly recommend Vallejo plastic putty, apply putty to the said gap and then take a damp cotton swab and run it along. The putty will go down into the gap and the excess wiped away, leaving a perfect filled gap, but like he said it’s not great for large gaps, thus I use TAMIYA putty. I use both personally
Thanks for the video.
You are welcome!
Nice job👍
Thanks 👍
Wow.. nice work... wow...
👍
Hi! Just stumbled into your video, wish I can paint brush my model like yours. Really nice I say...keep up the good job. Wish I can starting back to this hobby after long long leave.
Thank you!👍 And wish you happy modeling in the future!
Just finished watching this video. Nice work and keep it up as I am a brush printer too.
Thank you makeing this video it help me a alot
Glad you liked it!
Great work. Greetings. Aleš 😎 👍
Thanks! 👍
If you want to remove Tamiya paints, just use Isopropyl Alcohol, it will come off right away. Vallejo and Hataka (blue line) are excellent brush paint brands.
Yes, Vallejo Model Color is great for brush painting, haven't tried Hataka yet.
Very nice job! I was wondering if you hand paint out of a dry palette, wet palette, or from a cup with paint/thinner mix? Do you thin your primer coat in 50/50 ratio also? In your opinion, what paint is easiest to brush paint for consistent coverage? Thanks.
I use a dry palette. Paint + thinner mix in 1:1 ratio. For primer I use a spray. I find the best for brush painting water based acrylic paints, like Vallejo Model Color or Revell Aqua.
Great build! Is there a primer you recommend that you can apply with a hand brush?
Thanks! I tried to apply Vallejos Surface Primer 73.615 with a brush, but I was not satisfied with the result. The end result with Tamiyas Spray is much better. Maybe in the future I will experiment a bit with handbrushing primers.
New subscriber Nice. Build
Thanks. Appreciate.
Are you using Vallejo Thinner? or a generic brand for thinner? Thank you for your videos and content.
Vallejo Thinner for their acrylics.
You can use acrylic for 2/1 paint water rate
You can dilute acrylic with water, yes, but not too much because the paint will fall apart. I prefer dedicated thinners.
What kind of brush do you use
Nice job, do you think you should have stuck with all Vallejo paints instead of that Dark Tamiya 5 coat job?
Vallejo would have worked better for sure. But I did not have that color back then. But I used a wrong thinner with that Tamiya paint, probably that caused my struggle. Will try again in future.
Hi, after applying the wash, how did you remove it? Did you use thinner or just wipe it off? Also, what do you use to thin the paint?
It depends how long you wait, you can just wipe it off, or use a little thinner if it is too dry.
Do you use some special thiner for acrylic colors? Or just water? Is this necessary to get smooth painted surface?
Yes I use a thinner. ca. 1:1 ratio with the paint. I use Vallejos Thinner Medium No. 70.524 because I use mostly Vallejos model color. These are water based acrylics, you can use this thinner with Revell Aqua, or Italeris acrylic as well. But all paint manufacturers have their own thinners. Water based acrylic paints are mixable, and their thinner interchangeable. But be careful with solvent based acrylics like Tamiya or Mr. Hobby. You have to use their own thinner, in case of Tamiya X20A. I can not recommend using water as a thinner, if you add to much, the paint will "fall apart".
What do you use to wipe away the wash after applying and how do you mix your wash 70-30?
Paper towel with some enamel thinner. Check in my newer builds. For wash I use ready made enamel ones, or mix oil paint with enamel thinner or white spirit.
Can you like what equipments and tools you need for this model?
A lot of them is shown in the video.
Nice build and video 👍
Tamiya paints are horrible for brushing.
Revell Aqua colors are much better.
Thanks 👍 I like Revell Aqua too, and Vallejo Model Color.
i am much more carefull than you in the paint work but my models dont come out as good as yours.Is this because of my bad color preparation? i recently starte d using acrylic paints (air color) and water as thinner
Air colors are probably airbrush colors, and already thinned.
Im new and I brush paint and use acrylic, it leaves the brush marks how do I get rid of them?
Add a thinner into the paint. ca 1:1 ratio for water based acrylics. And use fine synthetic brushes ( I prefer filbert brush). If still not satisfied, you can try to polish the surface.
@@brushpaintedmodels7086 Ok thanks for the info!
Hello. Please can you tell me how did you paint the landing gear shafts (white) ,what color did you use for it , and how many layers did it take? I am a paint brusher too,and this is always a problem to me. Thank you, I like your video.
Hi Tomas. You are not alone, I have the same problem with white paints. It's a nightmare to paint white color with a brush. I bought a Tamiya white primer in a spray can, and I just spray the primer on it. 3X. That's how I did it on this model, no white painting at all. It's much better. Hope it helps.
@@brushpaintedmodels7086 thank you for the answer. And do you use any varnish after the paint job, for example gloss one before aplying decals or to protect paint before aplying enamel wash? (in my case acrylic Humbrol satin / gloss varnish) In one video of yours I saw aplying enamel wash to an acrylic color layer...
Yes, I do apply gloss varnish after painting (before applying decals). Then another coat when decals applied. I use enamel wash, because enamel thinner ( when removing excess wash) doesn't harm your acrylic paint. Then at the end when everything is finished, I apply a final coat of varnish. Satin or matt. It depends, which suits the plane better.
@@brushpaintedmodels7086 many thanks for your answer. Looking forward to watch your future videos.
Hi! Try to mix a few drops of grey into it, it worked pretty well for me,in 2-3 layers already nicely covered
No need for primer under Vallejo paints?
I always use a primer. See at 5:51.
Oops missed it! Thank you. Just starting back into this hobby.
What Brand of brushes are you using?
The small ones are Tamiya brushes. The bigger ones are synthetic artist brushes. Brand doesn't matter that much, what you can get in your local artist shop or online.
@@brushpaintedmodels7086 Thank you
3:03 Why did you cut off the missile location
I was building a different version.
Thanks@@brushpaintedmodels7086
How did you remove the bruahmarks ?
Sanded down with fine sandpaper.
@@brushpaintedmodels7086 grid levels ?
@@BugBorAT chucking the model into the bin and buying another one
👏🇺🇸💚💙✌
as a brush painter myself i can tell you you still have to improve more
There is always room for improvement.
of course he does, he said it's his sixth kit. he never claimed to be an expert. don't be an ass? lmao... anyway great vid and kit, keep it up