This process is very easy, don't be intimidated. Did it last night in about 1 1/2 hours.. GET THE TIE ROD TOOL!! so worth it. Clamps that came in the kit were useless, so use thick zip ties and or cut proof hose clamps Great video man Torque specs for 19mm are 29ft-lbs
Not sure why there's so much hate on this video/process! Sliding over the ball joint using 2-3 Ziploc bags and some syl glide brake grease worked like a charm, a little prying with a flathead and it was over in less than 5 minutes-those boots are quite thick and durable. For anyone saying the ball joint castle nut is seized on an older car, trust me my car is old and rusted to shit and half the nuts/bolts are seized, and its a lot easier to break that nut loose than separating the seized tie rod, plus you don't have to mark anything for alignment. Thanks for the great video!
Just MARK the track rod end, count the turns as you unscrew it take it off, fit the new boot without stretching it and refit the track rod end in the same place. No wheel alignment needed.
I always get the alignment anyways, to be fair I get free alignments since I work at the shop lol but if I didn’t it would still be worth the extra safety precaution 🤷♂️
Thanx for all the info. Followed to the letter and saved a lot 💰, got it done in 1 day. Instead of going 2 mechanic to rob me blind when I could do it myself & having 2 leave my car over 🌙. Ur video was right on point, awesome sauce, Jon ✌
I used a lot of methods to make the alignment nut move, but I failed, the last thing I can do is heat the nut, but I ran out of torch fuel, and the curbside pickup e-mail never came, you save me, thank you.
I would have left the tie rod end adjusting nut where it is..and spun off the tie rod end, it will not go out of alignment if you leave the nut in place...To me that is a whole lot easier than pushing it over the tie rod end...
Kennynva T. Sounds like a solid plan. This was my first time and this was what seemed to be the best route avoiding any mistakes. Turned out ok but I'm sure the proper way would be easier. I just don't have much expertise yet.
I tried this method on my 2001 Subaru Impreza and split the boot trying to get it over the knuckle with a screwdriver. The hole has to expand 3-4 times its normal diameter to clear the knuckle. I cant imagine this working... i looked at 2 videos using this method and both cut the camera right before it slips over the knuckle... My son and i decided to apply teflon tape to the threads beyond the jam nut, then mark the nut, and tie rod with a file, and count the rotations to get the tie rod end off... that was much easier then fooling around with overstretching the boot. Putting the clamps on the new boot was alot hardet than expected.
Sorry to hear this didn't help, I wasn't trying to hide that I did a different method than what I explained. As stated in the video it was very hard to do and took me easily over half an hour to just push it on and after a few minutes of not caring if I ripped it I just jammed it as hard as I could over the knuckle and it slipped on. Maybe you needed a bit more grease or it could have just been bad luck.
no worries.. sorry, i was just venting a little.. i got it done.. that's what's important... thanks for posting the video, it was good.. gave me enough confidence to start the job, so its all good.. what impact wrench are you using? it looks like a DeWalt.. i've been thinking of getting one..
I never thought about trying sliding them over the tie rod end. My forester doesn't have that plate with the 10mm bolts. I wound up having questionable outer tie rod ends anyway.
Good video! That brand's boot did not fit my 89 crx. I spent a good hour trying to force it into the right position but it was just too tight and ripped. Had to order a new one :-( Glad to see it worked for your car
The old, useless boot has to be replaced, so slide the old boot down towards the track rod end where it is easy to get at and cut it off first - before sliding the new boot on. Also carefully pre-warm the narrow end of the new boot to make it more flexible...
03:55 if you do this on a car that's rusted, you are in for a hell of a repair, and completely unecessary, no need to remove the castle nut and anything, just twist and break the outer from the inner.... make sure you mark everything to preserve alignment
Wrong, the purpose of doing it the way he did it, is exactly that, it preserves your alignment. He did it right. I've done this with several vehicles and rust isn't that big of a deal doing the way he did. Even if its rusty, all you need is a ball joint separator and a big effin hammer to hit the side of where the ball joint goes in if the puller has a hard time breaking it loose.
@@jaderhapsodie you're welcome! And good luck! It's tough getting over the tie rod but lube it up and wrestle it on. I'd buy 2 boots for peace of mind but you they're really resistant to tearing.
@@EPICJONTUAZON Thanks! I bought 2 boots. I also have to replace the CV inner boot on the passenger side CV axle. So it's going to be a challenge. I need all the luck and well wishes I can get.
I don’t know if I wanna drag the boot up the tide rod, it’s collecting all the dirt and concealing it when u put it on. But hey, if it works I might try it..
You don't need to grease it, But I threw in some grease as a precaution. I did WD-40 the crap out of it too before hand. You should definitely clean it while you have the boot off but it's not necessary to grease. IMO just do it for peace of mind LOL
JP Tucker You're welcome! definitely used a jackstand but just for one side. I would never go under the car with the jack holding all the support. Those things can give out without warning.
Nice job, but why not just mark the tie-rod end in relation to the shaft, loosen it counting the number of turns, fit the new boot and refit the tie-rod? If done correctly there'll be no change to your toe settings.
Thank u for sharing. Especially when u said not to be intimidated to do this. I was a bit but now it is the third video where they do the same and I'll just do it. Thank u.
No problem man! Just be prepared and do your research which you are doing! Don't half ass and always do it the right way and you'll be just fine! Remember safety first!
Yeah sorry about that. I got frustrated and stopped recording. Literally have to just power it on and lube the boot. I got to the point where I didn't care if I ripped the boot and it slid on lol
Let me get this straight you didn’t bother undoing the steering tie rod arm bolt then remove the old boot then put the new boot on then reverse direction and place the tie rod bolt back on?
Zip ties are doing just fine. I actually checked during my last oil change. They shouldn't wear down since it does not move. My alignment was also intact if you do it my way!
If you remove he tie rod, you mess up the alignment and it is very difficult to get the proper alignment back when you reassemble the tie rod. That's the purpose of doing it this way, because if you don't then after you replace the boot you will have to head to the alignment shop and pay for a 100 dollar or more alignment on top of the 15 dollar boot you replaced.
You show all the stupid repetitive stuff in real time and then skip the important very difficult part of getting the small end of the boot over the knuckle. Ugh.
This process is very easy, don't be intimidated. Did it last night in about 1 1/2 hours.. GET THE TIE ROD TOOL!! so worth it. Clamps that came in the kit were useless, so use thick zip ties and or cut proof hose clamps
Great video man
Torque specs for 19mm are 29ft-lbs
+Keelan Dalinghaus I wouldn't even attempt this without the Tie rod Tool in fear of damaging anything!
Thanks for the torque specs!
Not sure why there's so much hate on this video/process! Sliding over the ball joint using 2-3 Ziploc bags and some syl glide brake grease worked like a charm, a little prying with a flathead and it was over in less than 5 minutes-those boots are quite thick and durable. For anyone saying the ball joint castle nut is seized on an older car, trust me my car is old and rusted to shit and half the nuts/bolts are seized, and its a lot easier to break that nut loose than separating the seized tie rod, plus you don't have to mark anything for alignment. Thanks for the great video!
🙏🙏🙏 I appreciate it man! Made this video to help others out. There are Def other ways to do it but for an average guy this worked perfect for me.
Just MARK the track rod end, count the turns as you unscrew it take it off, fit the new boot without stretching it and refit the track rod end in the same place. No wheel alignment needed.
absolutely. another way to do it!
I always get the alignment anyways, to be fair I get free alignments since I work at the shop lol but if I didn’t it would still be worth the extra safety precaution 🤷♂️
Thanx for all the info. Followed to the letter and saved a lot 💰, got it done in 1 day. Instead of going 2 mechanic to rob me blind when I could do it myself & having 2 leave my car over 🌙. Ur video was right on point, awesome sauce, Jon ✌
Jazmin Rivera-Sommano great! I'm so happy I was able to help! Rock on 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
I used a lot of methods to make the alignment nut move, but I failed, the last thing I can do is heat the nut, but I ran out of torch fuel, and the curbside pickup e-mail never came, you save me, thank you.
🙏🙏🙏 Glad it helped!
Sweet awesome video, ordered the same boots off Amazon to do mine when I redo my whole front end suspension
Right on!
I would have left the tie rod end adjusting nut where it is..and spun off the tie rod end, it will not go out of alignment if you leave the nut in place...To me that is a whole lot easier than pushing it over the tie rod end...
Kennynva T. Sounds like a solid plan. This was my first time and this was what seemed to be the best route avoiding any mistakes. Turned out ok but I'm sure the proper way would be easier. I just don't have much expertise yet.
I tried this method on my 2001 Subaru Impreza and split the boot trying to get it over the knuckle with a screwdriver. The hole has to expand 3-4 times its normal diameter to clear the knuckle. I cant imagine this working... i looked at 2 videos using this method and both cut the camera right before it slips over the knuckle... My son and i decided to apply teflon tape to the threads beyond the jam nut, then mark the nut, and tie rod with a file, and count the rotations to get the tie rod end off... that was much easier then fooling around with overstretching the boot. Putting the clamps on the new boot was alot hardet than expected.
Sorry to hear this didn't help, I wasn't trying to hide that I did a different method than what I explained. As stated in the video it was very hard to do and took me easily over half an hour to just push it on and after a few minutes of not caring if I ripped it I just jammed it as hard as I could over the knuckle and it slipped on. Maybe you needed a bit more grease or it could have just been bad luck.
no worries.. sorry, i was just venting a little.. i got it done.. that's what's important... thanks for posting the video, it was good.. gave me enough confidence to start the job, so its all good.. what impact wrench are you using? it looks like a DeWalt.. i've been thinking of getting one..
All good! Yeah using an 18v Dewalt Impact Wrench. Want to upgrade to a 20v but that maybe overkill.
I never thought about trying sliding them over the tie rod end. My forester doesn't have that plate with the 10mm bolts. I wound up having questionable outer tie rod ends anyway.
Tim Johnson haha yeah I did my best trying not to lose my alignment 🤙🤙🤙
good vid. dude, mine is torn too. same year bug-eye. I will replace mine as well. Thanks for the upload.
Yara Mekong You're welcome dude! good luck! Please consider subscribing! :)
thanks for this video Jon! very detailed and informative. easy to follow along!
+sk8nrocker23 my pleasure! thanks for the feedback! doing my best to keep it real for us that just wanna get it done right!
Good video! That brand's boot did not fit my 89 crx. I spent a good hour trying to force it into the right position but it was just too tight and ripped. Had to order a new one :-( Glad to see it worked for your car
I'm not sure if the boot was universal. I looked up what one was best for my 02 wrx. Glad yu got it to work and the video helped! 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
I have 4 kids .... make sure to ‘double bag’ it!
😂😂😂
The old, useless boot has to be replaced, so slide the old boot down towards the track rod end where it is easy to get at and cut it off first - before sliding the new boot on. Also carefully pre-warm the narrow end of the new boot to make it more flexible...
pre warming the narrow end is a great idea.
03:55 if you do this on a car that's rusted, you are in for a hell of a repair, and completely unecessary, no need to remove the castle nut and anything, just twist and break the outer from the inner.... make sure you mark everything to preserve alignment
Wrong, the purpose of doing it the way he did it, is exactly that, it preserves your alignment. He did it right. I've done this with several vehicles and rust isn't that big of a deal doing the way he did. Even if its rusty, all you need is a ball joint separator and a big effin hammer to hit the side of where the ball joint goes in if the puller has a hard time breaking it loose.
Thank you so much I'm about to do this to my Miata very helpful man
+vincent bryan you're welcome brother! good luck! please consider subscribing!
Thank you for the informative video. Would you be able to share the link for the tool you used to remove the tire rod end?
Should be in the description!
@@EPICJONTUAZON Thank you!
@@jaderhapsodie you're welcome! And good luck! It's tough getting over the tie rod but lube it up and wrestle it on. I'd buy 2 boots for peace of mind but you they're really resistant to tearing.
@@EPICJONTUAZON Thanks! I bought 2 boots. I also have to replace the CV inner boot on the passenger side CV axle. So it's going to be a challenge. I need all the luck and well wishes I can get.
@@jaderhapsodie 🙌🙌🙌 sending good vibes! May the car gods smile down on you that day! 😁
Are you confident in the zip ties or would you rather use metal clamps; metal vs plastic?
It's not gonna be on alot of tension. I checked the other day and mine have not moved since I shot the video so I'm confident to say zip ties.
@@EPICJONTUAZON Thanks for making the how to video and the long term review of the zip ties, it helped in my situation.
@@JS-xr9ri 👍👍👍good luck!
I don’t know if I wanna drag the boot up the tide rod, it’s collecting all the dirt and concealing it when u put it on. But hey, if it works I might try it..
Hilary 2020 that’s why he has the nylon wrapped on the tide rod
Nice work with the plastic bag. I did the same thing when I was changing my lower seals on my boats outdrive.
🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼 Gotta do what you gotta do!
Question. Are you suppose to put any sort of grease on the steering rack? Or do you just clean it like you did on the video with the WD-40?
You don't need to grease it, But I threw in some grease as a precaution. I did WD-40 the crap out of it too before hand. You should definitely clean it while you have the boot off but it's not necessary to grease. IMO just do it for peace of mind LOL
Thanks for the quick reply!
Thanks for sharing. Got to do this soon to my bugeye, so this was helpful. No jack stands though?
JP Tucker You're welcome! definitely used a jackstand but just for one side. I would never go under the car with the jack holding all the support. Those things can give out without warning.
Nice job, but why not just mark the tie-rod end in relation to the shaft, loosen it counting the number of turns, fit the new boot and refit the tie-rod? If done correctly there'll be no change to your toe settings.
Visionery1 I just felt at the time this was the easier route. Took a little more time with less that could go wrong.
Thank u for sharing. Especially when u said not to be intimidated to do this. I was a bit but now it is the third video where they do the same and I'll just do it. Thank u.
No problem man! Just be prepared and do your research which you are doing! Don't half ass and always do it the right way and you'll be just fine! Remember safety first!
You sir are awesome. I am so gonna do this on my 99 Impreza
haha I appreciate the kind words! Please consider subscribing!!
Do you think I could do the same for my 2000 Subaru Forester?
It's worth a shot.
Thanks for this DIY tutorial Bro. Very helpful!
+Robert Smith you're welcome! When I make these videos I'd hope they would help at least one person out!
cheers for the video mate! about to replace mine so really helpful.
🤙🤙🤙 Don't forget to subscribe!
So the video skips the most difficult part of the process - getting the boot past the outer tie-rod end
Yeah sorry about that. I got frustrated and stopped recording. Literally have to just power it on and lube the boot. I got to the point where I didn't care if I ripped the boot and it slid on lol
Let me get this straight you didn’t bother undoing the steering tie rod arm bolt then remove the old boot then put the new boot on then reverse direction and place the tie rod bolt back on?
You damn right 💪
If your boot rips does your steering go out?
No I've had that boot torn for months and never noticed until I was changing oil under there.
Hey quick question now that it’s been some time how have the zip ties held up?
Also how was your alignment after this repair?
Zip ties are doing just fine. I actually checked during my last oil change. They shouldn't wear down since it does not move. My alignment was also intact if you do it my way!
Is the rack boot stretchable? or you just do it?
axenz axtiz it's not super elastic but it will stretch over the knuckle
Thanks :)
6:49 ...all ways double bag it when you're not sure.
😂😂 Words to live by
Eres el mejor gracias
What kind of grease did you use?
Lucas Oil Grease: amzn.to/2kHqq7X
Most excellent,,,,,,it sure helps not having to realign too,,,,,,,bag tech is excellent adaptation,,,dealer is 600$ for boot,,,,,,,,
haha woah! Saved a lot there!
What symptoms where you experiencing with a damaged boot??
sagetajr nothing only noticed when I looked under the car
awesome thanks for the vid didn't know they mad replacement boots
Chad Koyan you're welcome! Please consider subscribing! 🤙
putting the boot on easier if u removed the tie rod.
joe smith agreed! But this was just more straight forward for me :)
ok, good job!
joe smith thanks bro!
If you remove he tie rod, you mess up the alignment and it is very difficult to get the proper alignment back when you reassemble the tie rod. That's the purpose of doing it this way, because if you don't then after you replace the boot you will have to head to the alignment shop and pay for a 100 dollar or more alignment on top of the 15 dollar boot you replaced.
just subscribed. thanks for the video.
You're welcome bro! thanks for the support!!
You show all the stupid repetitive stuff in real time and then skip the important very difficult part of getting the small end of the boot over the knuckle. Ugh.
Took me a while just work it over with alot of force. Good luck
great vid
drgeek100 thank you!!!
Next time use this Dorman universal steering boot kit , it's much easier . here is p/# Dorman 614-020
🙌🙌🙌