How to Replace AC Compressor - Saturn , Chevy , Pontiac , Ion , cobalt
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- Josh takes you step by step through the removal and replacement of your A/C Compressor. This video will help you with most A/C compressor jobs but it is performed specifically on a 2003 Saturn Ion which is equivalent to the following make/models::
Saturn Ion ( 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007)
Chevy Cavalier (2002, 2003, 2004, 2005)
Chevy Cobalt (2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010)
Chevy HHR (2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010)
Pontiac G5 (2007)
Pontiac Pursuit (2005, 2006)
Pontiac Sunfire (2002, 2003, 2004, 2005)
Prep: Have a professional discharge your A/C system before making this repair!!!
Tools:
Wrench or socket set
3/8" Belt wrench (or anything that can hook the tensioner wheel)
Car jack
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Excellent instructional video. You mention the important stuff, like bolt head size, keeping the over on the ports of the ac unit. YOU would make a great teacher.
This is one of the highest quality videos for this. Other videos do not explain well for people who do not know about cars.
Hey just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to video this replacement. I know these take time and can be difficult but this was a good vid. I have to do this job soon and while it is a different model, watching vids like this give you ideas on how you can do it as easy as possible and save some money. Thanks!
Thanks for your support
never thought i’d say this to a guy working on his car in flip flops, but nice video man. very well explained. thank you.
Is there a more appropriate footware?
While I wouldn't exactly call that "super easy' with pride being the likely suspect, I do appreciate your posting the video. I found it very helpful. Thank you.
Thank god for you. Do you know how many videos I've looked thru before I found you..... Thank you
Wow! Great video young man! Mine's a redline w/a Supercharger so i had to remove my CAC pump but other than that, everything else is the same! Thank you for saving me time and removing my uncertainty! You Rock!
Glad I could help 👍🏼
Excellent video. I need to replace the oil filter "bracket" and the air compressor is in the way. Your video made the job easy to understand. Many Thanks. Buffalo ,NY.
Thanks for the comment, I'm glad it helped!
Solid video! I needed to do this to my 06 cobalt SS but I was scared… watched your vid and did it thanks!
Very helpful video. I've done this before to a 97 Pontiac Sunfire G/T. Four very important things I did not see you do, flush the System out with Mineral Spirits, especially after suspected internal damage to the Compressor from the out of balance Clutch Assembly. Installing 2 new O-Ring Seals at the Lines to the Compressor and replacement of the Dryer and Orifice Tube. The Orifice Tube would most likely be Caked with Debris over the years and the Compressor failing. You don't have to these things but usually you will Void the Warranty on the new/re-manufactured Compressor if you don't. Still a super nice and detailed video. Thanks for taking time to make it.
Good call on flushing, though the jury is out on diy flushes (leaving mineral spirit residues etc). If there had been complete compressor lockup I would have tackled flushing for sure. I should have mentioned in the video to inspect the lines for signs of particles for indications that a flush was more necessary.
Hah, the last car I had was a 97 Pontiac Sunfire that also had AC issues. Not a G/T though, it had four doors.
metalwreck450 lol i have a 2003, this is gonna be my first major car fix you mind giving advice? My 03Sunfire’s ac wont blow cold unless the car is running and when I’m idle or below 50mph is rattles
Mineral spirits won't evaporate. Bad flush agent. You need something that evaporates. OEMs usually only allow R134A closed loop flush. The ones based on short chain hydrocarbons (basically, when using such as flush, it's almost like you're using residue free contact cleaner as flush agent; i've just flushed an old leaky line that was removed from my car with residue free contact cleaner, and followed it with a duster can, and it worked perfectly) are also good, chase them with dry compressed air, or even better, nitrogen, though. You don't want the flush to dilute the oil. Also, you forgot a important thing in your statement, replace the condenser. The new ones act as inline filters since they have very narrow passages, and they're impossible to properly flush...
dauphin, MB, Canada. watched this video, feeling ready to tackle the compressor in my 2009 cobalt. thanks buddy!!
You got it 🤙🏽
It is VERY similar on the 2006 Saturn VUE 2.2L. The ac connector is different, and you need to remove the serpentine belt by the access via the passenger front wheel, but other than that is the same thing. Thanks so much for posting this video
Have to do this job on my 2005 Vue, 2.2 liter. Thanks for sharing.
Great video! Simple,safe, well done! I'll watch more.
I'm glad you liked it, I hope it helped!
Thank you very much for posting. Looks very similar also to Saturn VUE, I will have to replace the compressor on my daughter's car soon
EXCELLENT JOB and very well explained!
Gleamer's Motorcycle Painting thank you for the feedback!!
Excellent video !
Thanks
Excellent video. I was worried since this is a Michigan/Ohio car that I would be dealing with siezed bolts. Was not an issue. Rather then work in the ground I took the alternator out which added 10 minutes and had access from everything on top. Use a air ratchet if you have one, makes it easy peasy. Bottom compressor bolt was the only difficult one, ac lines routed directly in front, 2004 Ion
Good work!
Also the belt tensioner was being a pita. There is a 3/8 socket drive hole in the belt tensioner bracket. There is just enough room to squeeze the ratchet between engine mount and tensioner to get in the hole to lever up tensioner to get belt on
You were doing well until I saw you add oil to the system. 99.9% of compressors reman/new have oil already in there. Too much oil is no good for the AC system. Especially if the receiver drier/accumulator was not replaced. This will cause high pressure or clog the system. Replacing orings & star seals should be standard procedure. Not trying to be an asshole, but trying to help prevent further/potential issues in the future
Great video.
If the A/C hasn't come apart internally, that means the oil is still in the system.
Except for what oil is in the old compressor.
Wouldn't make more since to drain the oil out of the old compressor, measure it, then put that amount of oil back in the new compressor ????
Just a suggestion
Nice video, I think you should suggest PAG oil not ESTER. looks like PAG is OE.
Yes I think you're right but as I said, Ester mixes with all the other oils, so that's what I keep on hand
The compressor is a Delphi CVC, a variable displacement swash plate pump, and the lube these pumps require is a low viscosity PAG (PAG ISO VG 46, ideally the Double End Capped kind which is not hygroscopic, as an example). By using Ester, which is generally speaking ISO VG 100, you're running it on a lube with both a different chemistry and a higher viscosity grade. Basically out of specs. And Ester is hygroscopic too compared to Double End Capped PAG, not that it matters that much if you're quick when you're filling the compressor up with oil and then fitting it right after you're done. On the bright side, by using a different oil you're doing an experimentation, which is always interesting especially if compressor body running temperatures (IR gun thermometer) and noise level data are also taken. On the dark side, well, i'm afraid to think that running a pump out of specs lube wise may shorten its operating life, but i could well be wrong. Also, whenever there's a drain plug on the compressor body, like on the CVC, the oil should be filled inside the drain hole, not inside the suction port. By fitting it inside the drain hole, and then rotating the shaft by hand, the oil goes inside the crankcase and immediately completely covers all the moving parts inside (thrust bearings, pistons, swash plate, piston shoes) and the shaft seal. By fitting it inside the suction port, some parts may be left unlubed.
When this was bad did it make a sounds like a clattering? Maybe like lifters tapping almost? Mine 03 saturn is making a sound like that when it starts up and cold but when it gets heated up it's not as loud but still there.
If you notice a lot of smoke coming from the hood and then the ac system does not work does that mean the compressor is locked up? Also is the dryer part of the condenser? And if so should you replace the condenser as well?
This is happening to my 06 Saturn ion 2.2 I don’t know what part number to order
I have a question ehen you put the new compressor can’t use use one of the cans of Freon instead of going to the mechanic and have them do it
It's recommended to not do that because the mechanics can pressure test the system and see if its any good. Then vacuuming the system pulling any air and moisture; and finally adding the freon
Were any O rings changed? why? Thx!
I was driving my Chevy Malb 2004 when the tire rolled from underneath my car water started pouring out 4 days later no more ac getting cold i got a radiator fixed that problem but i still dont know why all my freon disappeared after my car hit the ground when the tire came off
Your AC condenser is attached to your radiator and I would guess it got cracked at the same time your radiator did
@@BudgetMechanicHawaii THANKS YOU'RE RIGHT HAVE A BLESSED DAY
If I got a shop to evac my system can I still drive the car to my house and work on it there then take it back to recharge?
Yes! I did that many times before I got access to an evac machine. Just limit the amount of time the system is open to the air and humidity. Get it evacuated and vacuumed as soon as you can
Yes. Because no Freon in system keeps the compressor shut off. The pulley just free spins. The low psi switch keeps the compresser from engaging the clutch.
I have a question?? I have a 2008 Chevrolet cobalt. The compressor isn't coming on. I had someone check it and he said it's full of freon. The fuses don't look blown. Where's the high pressure switch? What do you think it is??
I assume you’ve checked the compressor relay? Those pressure switches don’t fail that often but a mechanic with a good scan tool can check the switch voltages and see if it’s functioning properly. More like the the ac system charge is to high or low, the wiring to compressor is bad or compressor itself is failing
Perfect
Thanks
excellent
I will say, it's not my experience in North West Ohio that bolts come out and lines come off so easy as they did for you.... Great video
You know what size torque bit the clutch plate takes to remove it
Did he say anything about the green o-rings that fit between the compressor and the a/c lines?
Michael Rehkop make sure those are still on when you reinstall the lines, and also clean!
I believe they are rubber washers and not Orings on this compressor.
Hmm I wonder if this same method for a 2002 saturn sl??
my a/c is not blowing any cold air anymore, it has charge n my relays n fuses are good. the clutch does not spin anymore, so do you think it's the compressor that's gone bad?
Leonel Flores, Jr you need to put an ohms meter, multi meter, to the coil plug on the compressor side and if it reads 0 ohms your coil is shot and you must replace the whole compressor even though it's possible if you can get a cheap coil to replace just the coil. the ohms should read 2-5 ohms.
If it doesn't spin then your pulley or compressor is gone
The CVC (the same type of compressor in the video) on my car had a 187°C thermal fuse hidden inside the coil and that one blew up one day, and the compressor stopped engaging (the clutch hub remained stationary when AC was turned on and the coil plug pins read infinite resistance obviously). The system was apparently on a very low charge too and since it's a variable compressor and it can therefore run on a very low charge i assume that the compressor body overheated due to the reduced lubrication. All it took was a new clutch coil and the now 15 years old compressor is still doing its job.
just a few follow-up questions is it necessary to change the condenser also and also should I be looking for metal shavings when I take off the compressor in the oil. if I buy a new $350 compressor with a warranty they are going to make me change the condenser and the expansion valve.
yea you should the condenser internals catch metal particles from a damaged compressor and will definitely damage the new one when they make their way through the system,
i found my condenser on rock auto for cheap just save the receipts in case your new compressor dies
I would totally agree if this compressor had locked up. And to be totally safe you could do the condenser too, but my thinking was that I was still getting cold air out of it and the damage seemed to be mostly external so I didn't think there would be particles to worry about in the condenser.
Budget Mechanic
I found a relatively good looking oem santec compressor at lkq junk yard. I bought a brand new condenser. I bought OEM seals and pag 46 oil. I bought a cheap manifold gauge and a vaccum pump. I remove the alternator already and I'm going to take the compressor straight up. by the way my compressor only failed at the clutch coil burning out.
@@darylltxvideo Careful, if by "clutch coil burning out" you mean that the thermal fuse on the coil tripped, the AC system might have a problem... the clutch coil thermal fuse often trips when the compressor is run on a very low refrigerant charge. The variable displacement compressor will also run on a very low refrigerant charge and this will mean reduced cooling (it's the suction gas that cools the compressor down) and reduced lubrication (it's the refrigerant which circulates the oil around; with low refrigerant most of the oil will pool inside the evaporator; also with low refrigerant the compressor may run "destroked" most of the time reducing refrigerant and oil flow). As a result the compressor overheats and the thermal fuse can trip...
My compressor seized a few years ago and i just had it removed, I was thinking about replacing it now but is it even worth it if everything is full of metal particles now?
Burke Moras I think it's only worth doing if you replace all the elements of your AC which would be pretty expensive. You could do a thorough AC flush, put in new compressor and hope for the best, but chances are it won't work well for very long. So it's up to you but if the car's value doesn't warrant the cost of replacing everything I would say don't do it. Just my opinion, hope it helps
Much appreciated! Its a bit of a dilemma because the car has little monetary value but its got a lot of sentimental value because it's my first car and my grandfather gave me the money to buy it. It's been really good to me and I don't want to get rid of it, but I also can't justify spending a fortune on it. Well the Canadian summers aren't terrible so I can live without AC I think. I really appreciate your opinion, I would have probably spent quite a bit of money for nothing if it wasn't for you so thank you very much!
@@burkemoras In reality a quick flush (lines+evaporator), a new condenser, a new dryer/receiver dryer (fit this one, or have it fitted, right before the system is vacuumed), and a TXV sourced from a second hand evaporator (if the old one is dirty) should be all it really takes (in addition to a compressor) if you want to restore ac. Very quick especially if the TXV is placed on the firewall and can be removed/replaced from here, and the evaporator is still good (holding pressure, no leaks at all)... it's a TXV system with a parallel flow condenser so most of the metal particles would get caught inside the condenser and the rest in the receiver/dryer, you would flush the evaporator only to start with a brand new system oil charge really (nothing can get inside there, the TXV would clog up first and an orifice tube is always equipped with a screen). Not so expensive i would think, especially if you use a second hand compressor too. By the way a failing swash plate compressor like the CVC shown here doesn't fill the system up with swarf like a scroll/vane can do... small tip, use PAG 46 double end capped oil instead of Ester, that way you don't have to worry about it catching moisture while installing the new compressor.
@@teravolt6113 Wow awesome, I might just do that this spring! I really miss the AC, I appreciate your tips!
@@burkemoras Just forget the refrigerant cans anyway. Let it be charged by someone licensed (who will also evacuate and store any refrigerant left) and with a recharge station. It's a variable compressor so it needs to be charged by weight of refrigerant, not pressure. Lube all o-rings with 525 SUS mineral oil preferably (or double end capped PAG, if you can't find 525 SUS) before putting them on connections. Also, if the compressor has a drain bolt always drain and then refill the oil from it. That way the mechanism inside will get lubed up instead of only the pistons. And don't forget to turn the compressor's shaft (rotate the clutch hub if compressor has a clutch) by hand 10 times after you've refilled the compressor with oil.
Will the follow steps be the same for a 2005 Pontiac G6?
I’ve never done a G6 but I believe it should be the same process yes
My compressor is leaking oil. Both engine oil and compressor oil. Is there any hope to fix it?
If it is leaking from the high/low pressure lines where it bolts to the compressor you could probably get new o-rings.
Budget Mechanic The leak comes from the big O-ring.
I mean the gasket next to low/high pressure line.
Not totally sure where you're talking about but I would start by getting the system evacuated and then removing the fitting in question. Check any seals (gasket or o-ring) and replace them. If the leak is coming from the compressor itself, it is probably time for a new compressor
Is this aplicable to the2004 2.0 supercharged Ion?
yes, even if your system is slightly different, the principles all apply just the same
My clutch went bad, should have replaced it instead of the compressor. The "rebuilt" compressor seals and clutch went bad in less than a year. The "rebuilt" compressor was $120, a new clutch is $60. Luckily I sealed the old compressor and stored it, it's going back in with a new clutch.
jezuz, so much for rebuilt! anyway my compressor was grinding up until 2 weeks ago from what I can gather I lost coolant due to a friction rub on my condenser line. after a new line and adding DIY kit coolant have pressure but now no noise and of course warm air. any ideas? could the lack of coolant destroyed the compressor?
@@pipercolt1963 it's hard to say. Was what leaked out of the hose dirty? Did you pull a vacuum on the system? How much refrigerant did you put in? Was the noise when the compressor was on or off? Have you checked the relay yet? Does the clutch engage?
My guess is your clutch or compressor is bad. Both my clutches made noise while engaged before they let go. My guess is they started slipping, got hot and killed the clutch coil.
@@ExtraFunguswe had to add another can of coolant , its blowing cold but future reference anyone who hears noises from the compressor it can be due to low coolant as well. Too many variables , 3 years ago a guy in Edmonton told me this was bad that was bad on the AC spent 3 bills and nothing gained just tired of shoddy mechanics.
@@pipercolt1963 good timing, I'm literally in hell, pulled an all nighter. Tried to put a new clutch on the rebuilt compressor in the car, but the dummys who put it together really got it stuck on there. It seems they didn't stake in the bearing and that thing flapping around killed my coil. My original clutch came apart by hand so I put the new parts in it like I should have done in the first place. Drawing a vacuum on the system now after installing my original compressor with the new clutch. Now the question is do I fill it with 134a or propane? Just kidding, 134a.
Good video thanks. But next time please wear safety glasses.
134a is harmless
so hypotheically, if i was to evacuate the system myself....what would that entail?
You need to rent or buy an ac evacuation/vacuum pump.
Right. You are actually removing all of the Freon from the system. You will also remove some of the oil.a vacuum pump pulls it out, and saves the Freon in a storage tank.modern recovery machines weigh how much Freon was removed, plus they separate the oil that was also removed. Finally, you keep the vacuum pump running to pull a true vacuum, no psi! Do this for a while, to get the gauge to go into the vacuum side of the reading. Then, shut off the valves and watch the gauge. If you see the needle on the gauge slowly creeping up toward zero, you might have a leak. One of the reasons why you pull a vacuum. After you have made repairs, and are ready to recharge system, you want to pull it back into a vacuum. To retest for leaks, and then pull a good long vacuum to remove any residual moisture that may have snuck in. Then add the oil and recharge.
lucky for me i have no freeon so there’s nothing to drain
Do i need to flush my car after ac compressor repoacement? I have a 2013 chevy cruze.
Why add oil to compressor (its also pre-lubed from the rebuilder) when you're going to vacuum the entire AC system and remove all of the oil and gas before adding refrigerant
As long as there’s oil in there at the end of the day!
Vacuum doesn't remove oil... flush is what removes oil... you need to add oil to the compressor (and prime it too) or it will start operating dry, which is a bad thing...also with this compressor you have to carefully follow a run in procedure (ac run with engine idle, blower on maximum speed, either fresh air in warm ambient or recirculation+hot air when cold ambient, all of this for 5 minutes, so that the oil circulates properly) too at first startup... and it's always best to add it through the drain hole rather than through the suction port when the compressor has a drain hole...
@@BudgetMechanicHawaii so all.pf a sudden my cold air wasn't cold anymore. I noticed the 10 amp compressor fuse was blown on my 2006 Chevy impala. After changing the fuse, cool air for 60 seconds then fuse blew again. Any advice?
@@thomasfontenot8291 replace compressor
What’s everyone’s experience with remanufactured ac compressors?
I try to avoid them, since the stakes are higher on compressors than say alternators or starters.
I think that as long the right oil type and quantity is used, the refrigerant is put in the correct way, the system has been flushed with a correct flush and all residual flush has been removed, non-flushables have been replaced, the system is leak free and they're installed and operated for the first time the proper way, they're fine. Deliberately selling compressors that are doomed for failure seems like a bad idea to me. My belief is that most shops and DIYers make terrible shortcuts and mistakes while installing compressors. Be them new or remans.
That crusty clutch could’ve broken your belt, right?
If bad enough I suppose so yes
good video BUT you have to be very careful with the oil level you should have drained the original compressor to see how much it had in it and not just assumed 5 ounces was needed, the condenser, evaporator and receiver dryer/accumulator all hold oil and too much oil is as bad as not enough oil when charging the system
Yeah, the ideal thing would to flush the whole system up and then load the entire charge inside the compressor's drain hole (in this case, there's a drain hole; where one isn't there, it goes inside the suction port like it was done in the video). But a good flush can be very time consuming especially if the TXV isn't there on the firewall. If the compressor didn't seize and the system never leaked oil then doing the oil balance (replacing whatever is there inside the compressor with the same oil quantity and type, and replacing the receiver dryer and any oil inside it too if possible) is enough.
Wear some safety glasses ,of course only if you want to keep eyes
👍
#quadstatecameras
How you do it
Not replacing receiver/dryer?
Not on this one, but that is a good idea!
@@BudgetMechanicHawaii Doesn't that void a warranty (if R/D is not replaced)?
Yes usually. This compressor didn’t have warranty and owner could only do bare minimum. Not my favorite, but it’s still working!
What about a brand new compressor I will need to add oil also
Depends, often they come with oil inside but should be labeled
"Quick step by step" You should have put in parentheses ( 1st get the AC system evacuated) then it will be Quick step by step. Cuz once you said that I stopped watching your video
You sound mad
@@nullvid 3mo ago I was ...but now you opened up a wound. And now I am again, thanks 😡. Lol
@@MexicanJohnny 😂