How I Epoxy (Glue) Anchor Bolts Into Concrete, Video #4 New Room Addition
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- Опубліковано 7 кві 2017
- Quick "How-to" demonstration describing how simple it is too secure bolts (as well as rebar, threaded rod, and other metal anchors) into concrete using an epoxy product. This is video # 4 of my video series where I show I completed converted a covered porch into a new room addition.
Epoxy Product : amzn.to/48U6as3
Threaded Rod: amzn.to/49PDT79
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Porch Conversion Video Playlist
Vid #1: Remove Siding Demolition
• Remove Vinyl Siding.. ...
Vid #2: Remove Brick Demolition
• How To Remove Brick.. ...
Vid #3: Pour Concrete Over Old Concrete
• Pour A Concrete Slab O...
Vid #4: Add Anchor Bolts Into New Concrete Floor
• How I Epoxy (Glue) Anc...
Vid #5: Framing Walls To Enclose Old Porch Space
• How I Framed Walls To ...
Vid #6: Rough-In Electrical Installation
• How To Run Wire in New...
Vid #7: Installing Plywood Sheathing
• Installing Plywood She...
Vid #8: Installing Windows
• How I Installed Window...
Vid #9: Installing Sliding Glass Door
• Installing A Large Sli...
Vid #10: Exterior Siding Installation
• HardiePlank Siding, In...
Vid #11: Insulation and Drywall
• Installing Insulation ...
Vid #12: Installing Plank Flooring
• Install Engineered Vin...
The process involves drilling appropriate sized holes into concrete to the proper depth using a hammer drill with a masonry bit - cleaning out the drilled holes to remove the concrete debris created from drilling - mixing the concrete epoxy product properly - filling the drilled holes with concrete epoxy - and placing the bolts slowly into the holes with the concrete epoxy mix. This product cures in a few hours and claims to be stronger then concrete itself. - Навчання та стиль
1. Drill the hole roughly 1/8" larger than your anchor.
2. Use compressed air to blow out and Shop-Vac the dust at the same time. DO NOT USE WATER!
3. Use a long wire bore brush to score and rough out the hole. This roughing helps the epoxy to grab onto the sides of the hole.
4. Blow out and vaccum again.
5. Then, install your epoxy and all-thread anchor.
Great video. For the inside the box thinkers, washing is better than blowing. No matter how much blowing, still not as effective as washing. Let it dry, double check ,or wash first then blow out.
Or use a dry vac
Good info, and good in the comments too. I'm using compressor to blow out holes and its working well. Thx for posting
Cool, thanks
Great video! I used your video as a guide on how to install my 2 post lift about 8 months ago. I feel FAR safer with a single 5/8 threaded rod epoxyed in than 10 3/4 wedge anchors (they suck). My neighbor suggested using a rag thats damp and putting it on a drill bit to clean the holes out. That's what they did when putting 8 foot rods into concrete to do the casinos in CT. Worked like a charm! I let them dry out for an hour and then went to town. I'm building another addition so I'm looking at ways to anchor the sill and posts to sonotubes. Probably going to do the threaded rod method again lol.
Thanks Rob. and let me know what you decide to use between the post and tubes.
@@MrKistel I just poured the tubes yesterday and cut galvanized rod to length today. I'll epoxy them in and bolt to 6x6 post bases. Will not go anywhere for sure.
@@TheStevedie thanks for sharing
@@TheStevedieHey Im trying to install my two post lift, but I'm hitting repair right where I need my wholes so I can go down as far as my anchors needed. How deep did you drill
I drilled through the slab, 3.5 to 4". I nearly filled the hole with the epoxy, covered the threaded rod in and pushed/twisted it in. They do have drill bits for cutting through rebar
Some epoxy manufacturers clearly recommend that the holes be clean and dry. The recommended procedure is to blow the dust out, use a narrow brush to brush the inside of the hole, then blow the dust out again. I simply use a flexible plastic tube, blow into it while pushing it in until it hits the bottom, and move back and forth while blowing until no more dust comes out. The idea is to make sure there is no layer of dust which would prevent the epoxy from strongly adhering to the surface, otherwise the rod could slide out.
Thanks for the tips regarding how you clean out holes in concrete prior to applying epoxy to anchor bolts into place.
yes this actually required for thrid party inpsection for engineered repairs. Every 8" on center for 12' -4.5" deep...this is going to suck and thats just the vertical repair on one side.
Layer of dust will not happen if washed. Some people love the hard way.
@@Nttt739 You wash it and then wait until the water is gone? In most cases that is impractical, as water can linger for a very long time.
You have missed part where holes are supposed to be dry.
You missed the part where you make sure it's dry. See my other post. Whatever, you do it your way.
If you look at load tested failures - its the resin that fails, so keeping it thin with tight holes seems best.
Nice
Thanks
...supposed to turn the thread rod/anchor counter-clockwise (unless using a left-handed threaded rod) You want to turn it so that it pressures the adhesive to flow into the hole, and not out. The anchor will displace some adhesive (unless you insert the exact amount)...but, turning the anchor the wrong way can cause more than necessary to be forced out.
great tip, thanks for sharing
The video is correct - you do thread the bolt clockwise. This helps get the epoxy into the threads - counter clockwise can prevent it from penetrating. It is true that you wouldn't want to thread it clockwise more than necessary because you could start drawing the glue out of the hole.
How would direction of contiuous rotation affect adhesion????
can't believe holes drilled w/out carbide tipped concrete drill .... that's how one destroys another wise perfectly good bit.
Great video! I was wondering, are post installed anchors just as strong as anchors installed during the concrete process? I am in CA & earthquake zone
Thanks for watching usually the concrete epoxy product will have load ratings provided on a label. In any case the effectiveness of the strength of concrete bolt installation or epoxy anchor application is also heavily dependent proper installation techniques.
@@MrKistel Thank you!
Is the product available everywhere. Philippines?
Nice and to the point.
thank you
@@MrKistel what epoxy did you use?
@@e.r.6147 i believe it is listed in the video description area
I usually put bolts in original pour which allows to skip this process... but if you have a slab already there you need to drill.
😊
Water part was a big mistake. At the bottom there will be a lot of water in the concrete and this will reduce expoxy connection strength.
The epoxy manufacturer does suggests this however. Look up Simpson Strong Tie on YT.
Use Rubbing alchohol
@@josephsmith7865 Use a shop vac.
He dried it out
That was exactly how I did mine, including cleaning out with water and paper towels, and cleaning up the excess with a piece of cardboard!
Great minds Nancy, haha. Thanks for sharing
Can you use expansion bolts with epoxy? I thought that you couldn't mix the two even though I don't know why as it does seem like it better with epoxy than without. I do think you should "set" the expansion wedge before the concrete cures to at least get that part working. Once the epoxy cures I don't think you can set it.
Generally the expansion bolts require a tight predrilled hole to work correctly. For example a 1/2 inch bolt would require a 1/2 drilled hole. This makes sure the wedge can grab into the concrete. On the other hand when using epoxy to anchor the bolts, it requires the hole to be drilled slightly larger then the diameter of the anchor bolt. This provides some space for the epoxy.
Was going to do this, then read on a couple of manufacturers websites that anchoring epoxy is "not for sustained long-term loads". That last bit being a cut and paste from the datasheet for Quickrete's High Strength Anchoring Epoxy. That got me thinking, wouldn't torquing down a sill plate be a long-term load?
according to the local building department in this region it is pretty standard practice to use this method for this type of application.
what about in wood?
Does this work only on ground holes? Got an apartment complex that needs work, AC's outside have a rod iron guard n all the bolts anchored in are loose. Was wondering to use this or will all the epoxy just fall out
it is pretty tough stuff and could likely be used for a variety of applications
shop vac would work well to get concrete debris out of the hole
A vacuum could work well to clean out the holes in the concrete prior to adding the epoxy anchor adhesive. Water worked well in this case with the concrete anchor epoxy product used.
Shop vac, then wash, then dry with towel or other means .
Not sure if you’re still active but i really need advice. Would you recommend this video ( epoxy anchor) or wedge anchors to hang a punching bag in concrete from my wall. It would have 6 bolts. Thanks!
Sounds like either could work. If using epoxy you might have to deal with the effects of gravity while waiting for epoxy to cure if applying to a vertical or overhead wall.
I have a gate anchored to hollow concrete blocks with lead anchor bolts and they've vibrated out over the years. Do I fill the whole cavity behind the hole with epoxy?? Any ideas?
Hmm bolts are lead? Not sure what you are working with there so not sure I can provide any useful advise. Having said that if you have enough epoxy it probably would not hurt to fill the cavity. Otherwise you might be able to put some filler in the void before adding epoxy to critical areas around the anchors.
For hollow block installations you would use epoxy screen tubes in conjunction with anchors. They're made for that exact situation.
ua-cam.com/video/10fbAZvWX0U/v-deo.html
I'd try some large toggle bolts.
Also make sure that the inserted bolts are vertical
Great tip to make sure the bolts are plumb when setting them in the concrete epoxy. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Ten bucks if you can insert those bolts into those holes horizontally)
Water in the hole is a BIG no no. Just buy a hand pump (¢99 store) and some 3/8 inch pipe cleaner brushes
Sorry, you dry it completely. Water works fine.
How much is the epoxy? I need to install 4 small anchor bolts for a sliding gate motor. Would epoxy be worth it or would I have a most of the epoxy tube left and have to trow it away?
I believe the Epoxy product is shown in the video description. If you were to get it I would try to find a use for the entire tube although you maybe be able to store for a period of time if need be.
What makes you think that you get a stronger attachment by having an extra-big hole? Why do you think that a thick layer of epoxy holds better than a thin layer where the 2 surfaces are closer? Does the building code allow this method of attachment?
I believe the hole drilled was the size recommended by the product manufacture for the hardware size used.
Always read and follow(to the best of one's ability) the manufacturer's instructions.
I put it on the bolt
Wonder if this works in a empty brick to anchor a gate
As long as the brick is structurally sound enough to hold the weight of the gate and the additional forces I would think so. Might have to use a longer anchor to go deeper into the brick structure. Having said this it might not be a good idea to attach a gate directly to a brick veneer wall. The veneer brick wall may not be solid enough to handle the gate loads even if the epoxy bolts hold.
How long bolt to use to support 8ft 4*4 post ? How much deep to dig ?
I am afraid I am not entirely clear on what you are asking. In any case both those items may depend on several variables. Thanks for watching and best of luck with your project.
Where do you find those 6"-8" threaded bolts? All I can find is 1'-6' in length online.
Threaded Rod: amzn.to/49PDT79
(Amazon Affiliate Links - I may earn a commission from qualifying purchases made)
@@MrKistelthank you!!
can i lift a sidewalk with this,,what is the pullout strength rating
I have neve tried that but the strength is impressive. The epoxy products describe the strength ratings on the product labeling. Keep me posted if you end up trying and how it turns out.
Work fast,,,,and have a helper in warm weather. I used this epoxy in 88 degree Florida weather and the epoxy hardened in the mixing nozzle before I started on the third anchor. Did not have a helper so in the brief moment it took me to put down the caulk gun and insert the anchor bolt, the epoxy started to harden in the mixing nozzle. If I had a helper, I might have been able to fill all the holes while the second person inserted the anchors. The manufacturer needs to make a slow cure epoxy
wow that is a quick set up
I'm about to do this for a fence. I might keep the product in the fridge before I use. It's 90-100 degrees where I am!
How far distance between two anchors?
This depends on your local codes. Here in Benton County, Arkansas I believe it is 6' maximum for single story, 4' maximum for two story. I divided out by how many splits I wanted to make and add more if I think the distance seems to great, but the bottom line is that you need to meet code.
Where did you find those 6 to 8 inch bolts? All I can find is like a foot to 6 feet long
You could cut custom lengths from the longer stock. Sometimes lumber suppliers carry long bolts as well.
@@MrKistel thanks! I thought about that but was worried about the cuts making it so the nuts can't thread?
@@TheTreehouseFamily I usually cut with an angle grinder and the soften the cut edges with the grinder. A file could also be used. Usually nuts go on no problem.
@@MrKistel thank you, sadly those bolts aren't available right now. they were when you first sent the link but now aren't
may i know the setting time of that epoxy?
I believe it was under a few minutes if not sooner. The product labeling should the Epoxy setting time.
Will this help to rocking or spinning toilet bolt?
Hmm, not sure concrete epoxy is the proper repair for fixing a toilet bolt. Having said that the epoxy is very strong.
Same issue how did it go ?
can you use regular 2 part epoxy?
Nooooo
Are you supposed to use epoxy in expansion anchors?
As long as the holes are drilled to the appropriate size for the expansion anchors I would not see a reason to use Epoxy.
@@MrKistel I came to the web to find a solution for a drilled hole which is too big for expansion anchors, would I be able to skip the expansion anchors and just put the smaller screws in permanently? Sorry in advance, I am an absolute beginner!
@@amirelt4370 I am not sure I completely understand the question. If the holes are too big for expansion anchors you might be able to epoxy appropriate size hardware in place instead. Double check with the manufactures instructions on the epoxy product though as they often have hole size considerations. i hope this helps and best of luck.
I can never ever drill a hole in concrete with aggregate even with a hammer drill and concrete bits.
Unless the bolt is to be used for holding something light, what's the point of bolting then?
An anchor bolt, properly set with an approved Epoxy compound can handle a significant load. In this case the function was to attach the wall plate to the new concrete floor.
@@MrKistel Was it just an oversight not to put the J anchors in the concrete when you poured the slab... it just takes a bit more advance planning & avoiding the drilling into hard concrete & having to use epoxy at all?
@@heyitsrick01 Thanks, part of it was planning as I was not sure where to place the anchors at the point of the concrete pour. I had not had framing plans finalized at that point. Secondly, since it was a shallow concrete pour, I thought I could install deeper anchors by drilling through the poured concrete layer and some of the old concrete. Then I could epoxy the anchors in place exactly where I wanted them at a deeper depth than the j-bolts.
Why not just use standard anchor bolts made specifically for this purpose?
If referring to the type that use an expansion and compression type apparatus, it is partly because the concrete was not fully cured at this point. In addition the holes were placed near the edge of the concrete. There was a possibly the expansion anchors could cause the concrete to break.
How far apart are your anchors
I believe no more than 24 inches if I recall
Would this pass inspection ?
Did for this project
this epoxy how strong is it or how many KG can it hold to the max tq
There are many manufactures of similar type Epoxy products. I do not specifically remember the specs for this product although it was plenty strong for my application (tie wall into foundation). It seems to be amazingly strong stuff, but i do know the holding power greatly depends on the installation.
the reason i am asking is because i had need to install back the glass bathroom door the bottom hinge tiles been remove and wall plugs come out i need to use concrete wall plug the hole gone bigger .i am wondering any of this epoxy can do the job.
Joe,
typically these products are 10X stronger than the material you are bonding to. So the concrete will break before the epoxy will. Caveat: If applied correctly!
Good luck
MJ
What is the name of this eproxy?
Epoxy Product used: amzn.to/2vW1rEJ
what was the name of it
I read the name on the tube. It looks like it's, PC Products - PC Concrete 9 oz. Epoxy. My Home Depot doesn't have it locally in the store, but it can be ordered online. I used Sakrete Anchoring Epoxy which they had in the store and is a little cheaper. Hope this helps. :)
Why not vacuum the dust out of the hole?
I assumed water would wash off all the powder residue stuck on the inner walls.
@@MrKistel But by using water isn't there the problem of having to dry out the hole?
Couldn't you just set an anchor in the concrete when it was poured?
yes it is an option to place anchors into the wet concrete if you prefer however it would be a different style anchor. Usually they have like a hook or bend in the bottom to stay stuck in the concrete.
@@MrKistel I've seen some things showing that just a headed bolt or a bolt with a washer and nut on the end in the poured concrete holds better than the style with bends in it.
@@benjaminmiller7933 Perhaps, I like put in the anchors after the concrete is poured myself.
That's what I did, But this video is how to Epoxy anchors into concrete.
Why not use wedge anchors
Thought it might be risky considering the concrete had not fully cured the several weeks generally required at the time of concrete anchor installation. I thought the compression force might potentially crack the fresh concrete.
@@MrKistel
Good points. Also quite close to the edge. You used the right technique just use compressed air or a vac next time not water. Much easier!
Vacuum wrks better
Any other epoxy or glus that work? These tubes are like 20-30 a tube and for 2 holes... bubble gum seems like it may work. LOL
Typically the Epoxy products are pricey but their strength is likely superior to bubble gum. Ha
Sorry, water is one method. It must be completely dry after. The other methods are labor intensive. Their not wrong, just more labor.
Unless any buddy can answer any questions from a structural engineering mind set everyone is clueless.
We all know water a steel don’t mix it causes rust I believe they’re finding out the hard way on a lot of bridges house foundation 10 - 20 years down the road Corroding and cracking going on I wonder why.
I used a fiberglass Rebar it’s ten times stronger than rebar doesn’t rust it’s lighter than rebar makes it much easier to do by self cost less than rebar and let’s concrete bend under load unlike rebar that will crack under load cuts easily to Gator Bar I believe is its name .
For those who don’t know of it check it out made my life easy.
The make expansion bolts for this. They are 1 cheaper 2 stronger 3 easier..
Sure there are a variety a ways to anchor to concrete. Thanks for sharing.
Anchor bolts are not suitable for all applications though, especially not close to the edge of your concrete.
Expansion bolts are not always stronger. Near edges or in weak concrete resin bonding can be a lot stronger and safer.
ill remember this when i move next and need to secure my firearms safe
K
why not just drive "red heads" into the holes?
Since the holes were relatively close to the edge of the slab I figured the was a chance a compression fitting could cause a crack.
and it would
Have you met Mr. Simpson, strongtie
Can't say I have met anyone from the company. Hope the concrete anchor install video was insightful for you. Thanks
@@MrKistel very informative. I appreciate you taking your personal time to help others like me with our diy projects. Keep on keeping on. TY.
Too bad that the mixing nozzles are not readily available. If you only use a small amount, toss the cart away along with your money.
The brand I used in the video (link in video description) comes with two nozzles which is nice. If push comes to shove you can hand mix the two parts with paint stick or something.
You can squeeze it without a nozzle, properly mix by some stick, and then use, as you do with regular epoxy. And keep your clean nozzle for a big job.
Soooo you have enough money for a hilti but you cant afford wedge bolts??
Epoxied anchors are stronger than wedge bolts.
Which crack the concrete base when installed close to the edge.
Just use a shop vac and a straw, dude.
That is a great tip to clean out the holes before applying the concrete anchor epoxy adhesive.
Not supposed to use while cement is wet !!!
Basically did everything wrong...
Completely wrong.
basically he did everything wrong.
,! 5/8 is too big for 1/2" bolt, just use air to blow out. Not water. why the heck make extra work?
dude. you should not post how to videos if you don't know what you are doing. how useless. actually worse. you are giving out bad info.
NO WATER.... Caned compressed air... vacum... round wire brush ... for heaven sake.... just another idiocy
Water doesn't effect epoxy. As long as you aren't leaving a puddle in there it's fine.
Epoxy is thinned (before it sets) with acetone, not water. What is a little moisture in the concrete going to do to the epoxy? Nothing.
@@foggymtnbreakdown if the hole is to wet the epoxy will not stick to the surface of the concrete
Wire brush is actually recommended against as well. You are supposed to use a poly brush.
Another amateur instructing something he know nothing about.