Thanks for making this video so popular! Once you do the garage door, you're ready to install www.AtticFoil.com in your home. It's like a giant tree instantly landed over your home.
You gained my respect, Sir, for recommending a "competitor's" product when it suited the application, instead of making up some nonsense to try to make a quick buck. Thanks for truly educating the customer base with your videos, and more importantly being a man of character. I'll be measuring my attic and placing an attic foil order this weekend!
That was super helpful, thank you, I just purchased a luxury car and it's about 20 degrees hotter in my garage than the normal temperature outside during the hot summer heat. Now all I need is a pick up truck to actually go buy these panels and bring them home.
I've watched a LOT of vids on this subject and this one made the most sense to me for radiant heat repulsion. This morning I was in my daughter's garage at 8am and the outside temp was eighty *, but the interior surface of the east-facing, uninsulated metal door was 102* measured w/ an infrared thermometer. I can't wait to try this and I don't think the extra weight of the material will pose a problem for the "balance" of the opener and spring. Thanks! BTW, you can order an infrared thermometer online for about $20. A really useful tool to own so you don't have to guess about temps.
My two car garage door has hurricane braces across the center of each panel. I still was able to use a 1 inch thick foam panel (foil on one side) from HD using my cutting idea. Cut each panel to fit tight then cut into fourths. When you cut, turn the line about ten or fifteen degrees. these odd shaped pieces will slide together much easier and fit tightly. Put a glob of glue at the center where the pieces converge. Put the foil to the outside (towards the panel) as a reflective barrier.
Loved your video. Just wanted to point out that my garage door had 7 different panel sizes, which would have gotten me in trouble had I cut all the panels to one size.
Not sure about hurricane braces. You could test with a piece of cardboard. The radiant barrier is mainly used to reduce summertime heat gain from direct sun hitting the door. To keep the heat in during the winter you will want to go with a bulk insulation and make the door airtight. For a good all around solution, I would just put foam in the door without foil or an air space. Basically give your door a jacket. It will help some in the summer and a lot in the winter.
Works great however I wanted to secure the foam board. I injected Great Stuff foam thru the foam board. Use a Phillips screwdriver to punch five holes in each. Three seconds each hole. Worked great.
You are right. The foil is doing all the work. You could use cardboard or any other product that will stay in the door channels. I just recommend the foam with the foil because it's a one-step shot. People ask me if they can use AtticFoil. If they have extra from installing in their attic, I tell them to use spray adhesive and apply it to foam board or cardboard like you mention. Otherwise, buying the foam/foil combo is fast, easy, looks nice and is relatively inexpensive.
The total weight of the foam board at most is only a few pounds. Considering doors can easily weigh a couple of hundred pounds, this small amount is trivial in how it will effect the spring.
Ed, thanks very much for sharing this. I was struggling to determine the best option to help cool my garage from my East facing garage doors from the Texas heat. Your recommendation is perfect and by far the most economical. I do have a question before I start. I went to Lowe's and the panels come in 3 widths up to a maximum of 1". Will I get better results with thicker insulation? Logic would tell me yes, but to install it as recommended, I know it also has to be able to bend without breaking and I'm concerned the 1" thick board may be too rigid. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Ed, not sure if you are still monitoring this video commentary all these years later, but question in hopes that you still are. If someone wanted a little "cleaner" look to the setup with the panels not bowing out, what if you used pieces of the same foam board cut in say, 1" strips, as "spacers" against the front of the garage door (maybe white side facing out, or would that even matter for these strips) and then put your full panels in on top of your strip spacers bringing the back of the foam board more flush with the framing/lip of each section, eliminating the bowing out? I know that the foam board you'd use would have to be thin enough that it still had that airgap in the rest of your "cell" but would something like this work? And if not strips of foam board, I think i did see one other video of a guy that used wooden shim slats for a similar (but MUCH more complicated) application, so maybe something like that half an inch in thickness, then your foam board resting on the slats and the rest of the area not touching the slats would be your air gap. Is what i'm trying to describe making any sense?
@@AtticFoil Good deal Ed. Thanks for the reply. Actually sort of re-thinking (overthinking I'm sure) the idea of using foam board strips and maybe using something like wood or cork or rubber "stoppers"/cylinders in the four corners of each panel section. Something with less material and less conductivity, but hopefully robust enough to survive South Texas heat long term. Stalking options at big box and amazon that might serve this setup purposes. Anyway, thanks very much for your advice and for doing this video. Sooooo much different and more informative than so many of the other garage door insulation videos. Almost NOONE whose videos I've watched talks about the air gap. Most are just slapping whatever insulation they are using right against the innermost surface and calling it a day.
Just did this today, totally made a difference. How big a deal is the gap that the bow in the insulation makes? I feel like I should seal it up with some tape so hot air doesn't flow out, but I don't know if that would help or hurt. Thanks for making the video!
If you seal it up, then the air in the space will heat up and then more heat will travel by conduction across the foam. Remember, this video is to keep the garage COOLER in the Summer not to keep it warmer in the Winter.
For a SWFL garage door facing east (light brown metal garage door) and rooms above the garage plus with the idea of installing a mini-split system for AC. Do you think it would still be best to do the doors this way and also maybe add blow in insulation to the garage ceiling? I was told its not important to insulate the ceiling if there are rooms above it. They get awfully warm and I want to do everything I can to make the garage a comfortable temperature all year round and if possible, reduce the temperature of rooms above it.
If the door catches sun, then you definitely want to install a radiant barrier www.AtticFoil.com on the door. This article should help for hot rooms over garages: www.radiantbarrierguru.com/hot-rooms-in-my-house-how-to-make-them-more-comfortable-part-1/ There SHOULD be insulation between the sheetrock of the garage and the floor of the room above it. So, this is not really the problem. A radiant barrier ABOVE the room in the attic will have the biggest impact.
Beautifully explained! But if the foam on the garage door were thicker, wouldn't it be better? I know you said the foil does all the work, but doesn't the foam do some work too? Thanks! Nice job on this video!
The foam is really doing nothing no matter how thick. In this video I'm addressing specifically RADIANT HEAT coming off a hot (in the sun) garage door. So, all we need to do is reflect it. Since the foam is basically "floating" it really has no R-value.
Would it make sense to keep the foam "touching" the door and utilize it for its R-# properties.. with Foil side facing inwards towards garage. So the foam would be providing the necessary "airgap" for the foil to reflect the heat through? Or am I missing something. THanks!
If you seal it up, then the air in the space will heat up and then more heat will travel by conduction across the foam. Remember, this video is to keep the garage COOLER in the Summer not to keep it warmer in the Winter.
Hi Ed, that is a great idea but I think you've got the foil facing the wrong way. My understanding is the radiant barrier doesn't reflect heat. Instead, it absorbs it like anything else but the shiny side does not radiate it back out. Thus, you would want the foil side facing into your garage (so that the styrofoam absorbs the heat coming from the door but then the shiny side of the panel prevents it from radiating into the garage). Or am I missing something?
+Option1979 Yes, you are missing something. Aluminum foil has two qualities. Reflectivity and Emissivity. Reflectivity is where the the radiant heat actually reflects OFF the foil (as in this case with the foil facing the air space behind the door) and Emissivity where the foil will reduce the amount EMITTED from a hot surface. An example of this is wrapping a hot potato with foil will KEEP it hotter longer since it cannot EMIT radiant heat as easily. Foil laminated roof decks like TechShield work in the same way. Here is a video explaining the differences: ua-cam.com/video/uGP5KobU6R4/v-deo.html
Ed, I will like to do the same thing to my garage but I came across another youtube video where a thermo gun was used. The individual aimed it at the bare garage door, then at the foam and then at the foil. Having the foil facing out was much cooler then facing it towards the metal panel door. What's your take on this?
+jkl7097 Using an IR thermometer or thermal imaging camera for mesuring a surface temperature of a low emissivity surface never works. This is why you will NEVER see me measure the temperature of foil. For example, if you use a thermal imaging camera inside a home and point it at a mirror, it can sometimes read 40 degrees. We KNOW the mirror is NOT 40 degrees when the room is 75 degrees. So it's not accurate. You would need to peel part of the foil off, or put some black tape on it and measure again to get a "true" surface temperature. Here is more than you probably want to know about this: support.fluke.com/find-sales/Download/Asset/2563251_6251_ENG_B_W.PDF?trck=emissivityexplanation
Thank you for the reply I meant that for reflecting heat, your technique is super fast and leaves an air-gap. There are multiple videos that advise fully packing the pocket with Perma. This requires more time (no air gap)so I was wondering if you think worth the time I live in Miami, so I only worry about radiant heat thanks great videos on your wibesite!
If you are just talking about reflecting heat, then a radiant barrier is all you need. Think about going to the beach? Do you want an umbrella or a jacket?
Would putting rockwool in the air gap negate the radiant barrier effect? I'm looking to insulate a 2 car garage and reduce the noise to the outside, coming from the tools. What are your suggestions to obtain this?
Technically, you need an airspace. Insulation kinda falls into the grey area of "is it air or is a solid?" The more dense the product like foam board or dense backed insulation the less airspace and the more contact/conduction (or less benefit). Will it negate the effectiveness? Yes. How much? Tricky to exactly quantify it.
Hi Ed, great video, I have a ? "Required air space", I don't understand this aspect. I have lips in each of my garage door sections. I measured ~ 1/2" larger height wise, slid the insulation up & then moved it down so it would stay in place. What am I losing by not having the bubble/ air space? Thanks 4 your insight. David Decker
Radiant heat by definition is heat flow in a "wave" or by non-contact. If you don't have an airspace, then by definition you really don't have radiant heat transfer. Whatever you put up will still help conductive heat flow based on whatever the R-value is though.
Mark Silagy - For the method described, having thicker foam is not really going to help much. The foam is really there just to hold the foil. Since the ends are open this is a Summer application. You would need to seal up the ends and make the door airtight to get any additional benefit (r-value) from thicker foam board.
AtticFoil Radiant Barrier Foil Insulation Ed, excellent video! I wish I would have watched 2 weeks ago. I just installed a DIY Home Depot garage installation kit that is basically just foam board. I did study up a little on the benefit of foam only and the rationale was the metal door itself is a radiant barrier and the foam board is the insulation, It does not sound like you agree with that concept?
echo444 A metal door is not necessarily a radiant barrier. Or, something that is VERY reflective is not necessarily a radiant barrier. For example, a chrome bumper is VERY reflective, but you would NOT want to sit on it in the sun. How much heat that is transferred through a door is a function of how much radiant heat it reflects and how much it "emits" into the garage.
If I wanted to help warm up the garage in the winter, and keep it cool in the summer, could I use some sort of batt or foam insulation with your AtticFoil attached to the back of it (foil facing inside the garage). In that case the insulation would act as an air gap, correct? Any tips or suggestions?
Insulation is not considered an air gap. But if you want year round benefit, I would still do it your way. The insulation will provide R-Value both in Summer and Winter, the foil will still work off emissivity in the Summer to reduce the heat emitted that makes it through the insulation.
If you want to RETAIN heat, you will want to make the door as airtight as possible and use insulation that will add R-value to the door. I would look to inserting foam panels in the door.
This would explain why it's been hot as hell in the garage since putting up insulation and covering it with plastic. We were completely hustling backwards. 🤦
Putting insulation in a non-conditioned garage is like building a refrigerator without a compressor, or basically making a big cooler and never having any ice. If you put hot car inside, it will STAY hotter for longer. This is great in the Winter, but not so good in the Summer.
So the foil foam board is suppose the bend and not be flush against the door? It’s suppose to have air flow behind it? I have a bonus room above the garage and it is humid & hot AF! Also does t help that that whole side of house is southern facing.
Yes, you want the gap between the hot garage door and the foil layer. Airflow is good. This method is for keeping heat OUT and not for keeping heat in in the Winter. If you have a South facing house, you should also consider installing www.AtticFoil.com in the attic above these rooms. It's will basically make it like a cloudy day and make the WHOLE home more comfortable and energy efficient. Read some of our reviews here: www.shopperapproved.com/reviews/AtticFoil.com/
Will this work if you have multiple wind braces across the garage? will it bow out enough to go over the hurricane braces? Does the raidiant barrier still keep the garage warmer in the winter or does this only cool the garage in heat? I installed a ac vent in my garage and I want to insulate it so it is cooler in summer warmer in winter should I use this method or fiberglass insulation? Please Help.
Here in Texas its mainly the heat Im concerned about. But in my situation I put an A/C duct in the garage to have cool air and some heat in winter since I converted my garage into a nice home gym. I was thinking of using liquid nails to put perm r directly on the garage foil facing garage door then covering it all up with another layer of perma r on the outside of the windstorm braces. the braces are like beams running across garage and is 2 inch spce from garge to brace. how would you go about
LOVE your video and suggestions and can't wait to do it-- Thank you for creating this tutorial! I'm having a tough time locating the product you used in the video. In our area, Lowe's has it pre-cut to 0.75-in x 1.13-ft x 4-ft, but at $9.70 each, 16 panels would cost WAY more than I was hoping to spend. Plus, it's thicker than what you suggested, so I can't picture it bowing the way it would need to. There's a product called R-max that seems similar, but I know so little about this! Any suggestions?
You can use pretty any foil faced product. The R-Max will work fine. The R-max is just a denser foam. Typically it is an ISO board (polyisocyanurate) as compared to EPS (expanded polystyrene) or "StyroFoam".
Hi! I need to create a heat barrier for the harsh north Florida heat and winter do you think this will work on a metal shed door (tiny house)? I dont know what to do to insulate a metal shed door Maybe glueing some wood furrings all around the door then glueing or stapling foam to the wood furrings do you think this will work? Or do you have a better idea? I will appreciate your help thank you!
Jack, I would love to help. Can you send some pictures to www.AtticFoil.com - Contact us page? I can give you several ideas. And probably have pictures from other customers who have done something similar to send you.
Ed. Great video. very fast and easy technique. saw many videos that pack the pockets of the garage door, do you think its worth the extra time? also do you think that installing the Perma R along the cement walls of the garage has added benefit? thank you
Is it worth it? Remember this video is to show the benefit of reflecting HEAT only. If the door is getting hot from the sun and radiating heat into the garage this method works great. If you are trying for year-round benefit. Then a more standard door insulation and air sealing will work best. As for the Perma R on the interior walls? Unless those walls are getting REALLY hot (like you can FEEL the radiant heat coming off them) then probably not a big benefit in the summer. As for Winter heat loss? Anything to add R-value to the walls will help.
How would you go about using two layers one directly on door and the other glued on beams that give you a 2 inch space from the door. Which side of foil or foam goes directly on garage? Which side would face the room on the one that has the 2 inch space that is glued to the beams? Or would you just use one layer of perma r glued to the beams? The reason I want to use two is to have more insulation for cold but still get the radiant barrier for heat. Please help. It would be greatly appreciated.
I am a bit confused, So, radiant barrier is only going to be effective if the door is on direct sunlight? Mine does not get sun light but it does get really hot in summer. (Dallas) . Should I get thicker insulation instead of aluminum foil sheets?
Luis, it can be confusing. The hotter an object gets, then the MORE radiant heat it emits. A garage door (or anything like a parked car) will not really get hotter then ambient (outside) air temperature if it's not exposed to the radiant heat from the sun. For example, your driveway in the sun and in the shade are totally different temperatures on a sunny day even though the AIR temperature is constant. If you garage is still really hot and the door does not catch direct sun, then the radiant heat must be hitting other walls or the roof? Installing a radiant barrier in the attic ABOVE a garage (it's a basic attic install) will usually make the garage must cooler. atticfoil.com/index.php/installation/staple-up-installation/
this is such an informative video - thanks. Question: I have hurricane braces (horizontal) mounted on the inside of my garage door (building code requirement for Florida). If the radiant barrier is supposed bow out a bit, my hurricane braces will not allow for this...would this make a huge difference in installation, especially if not glue or applying adhesive to hold them in place? Suggestions? Thanks.
You can do pretty much anything that works. If the door is catching direct sun, it's radiating the heat into the garage. You just want to block that path and reflect it back. Just get an airspace between the hot door and the foil and it will work.
I guess you could, however AtticFoil is easy to work with, tear-proof and a fraction of the cost compared to the foam/foil board. Compare prices at AtticFoil DotCom
This video/page should help: atticfoil.com/index.php/knowledge-zone/knowledge-zone-faq-videos/faq-videos-how-much-cooler-should-my-attic-be-after-installing-a-radiant-barrier/ As for the the garage? If it's non-air conditioned, then AtticFoil will work best. If you plan on heating/cooling it, then you need regular insulation and treat it like the rest of the home.
@@AtticFoil I'm a bit confused. This video says that the Perma-R (foil board) works better than AtticFoil for garages... but you're saying that's only for air conditioned garages? I'm just looking to keep hot air out.. not concerned with cold temps (in Houston). I have a garage door services company, and I'm trying to find the right product to offer our customers. Thanks.
Very informative but you missed something. I have 2 cars parked in the garage, and we are in Los angeles ( mostly hot weather) now the heat from the cars just parked inside the garage after closing the garage door will it be trapped inside?
This is a video about how to keep the garage cooler from the sun. If this is a huge problem, I would let them cool off for a while (the engine) before pulling into the garage.
I did this to my garage doors last year, but I live in Arizona and have found that after the sun drops the garage still stays pretty hot... So if you're in a hot climate I'd recommend to couple the insulation with an exhaust fan that is controlled with a thermocouple that starts after the sun drops to cool off the garage at night. Otherwise the stagnant air just stays superheated.
How much weight does the insulation add to the door? Keep in mind, extra weight makes the torsion spring useless. Now the the extra weight has put more strain on on drive unit, reducing operating life. If you wanted to do this properly you would need to weigh the insulation and order an appropriate spring to account for the extra weight.
In the attic photos, the shiny foil is facing into the attic. Wouldn't that just be reflecting heat back into the attic and the house? I would think to cool the house you would need shiny material facing the underside of the roof, not into the attic.
Heat ONLY goes from hot to cold. The www.AtticFoil.com is double sided. You cannot "trap" heat. The top layer reflects the heat and the lower layer reduces heat by emissivity.
I live in the midwest and my 2car garage door faces east. Should put the foil up against the skin of the garage door or face the foil twards the inside of my garage. Does it make a difference which way the foil faces?
Aluminum can work of the reflectivity or emissivity quality. The best way to reflect heat is to work off the reflectivity quality. (foil side towards heat source) Foil in works off the emissivity quality, which is ok but not as effective as facing out. Plus it looks better when the foil is hidden. In attics we recommend the double sided www.AtticFoil.com products.
No, foil on the ceiling won't do much since the surfaces are not really absorbing much radiant heat. This might help: www.radiantbarrierguru.com/hot-rooms-in-my-house-how-to-make-them-more-comfortable-part-1/
PK Texas If the door catches direct sun, the it is still definitely worth doing. You will just not get quite as good of results since you have some "holes" in the radiant barrier. For the windows you could add some low window film to reduce the heat gain.
Any thickness will work. All the foam is really doing is holding the foil in place. Anything less than 1/2' might not be rigid enough to stay in place.
+Shawn Mazurk The foam will never get hot enough to self combust. As far as flammability there are typically a hundred of other things in a typical garage that will burn just as well in case of a fire.
+gburgs The foil reflective surface is the key. Any product that has a form of radiant barrier will work. We have had customers use AtticFoil and use spray adhesive to adhere to many different substrates. You COULD even use kitchen foil.
Outstanding video, many thanks. The "Perma R" product is hard to find. Home Depot does not carry it and neither does Lowes at least as far as I can discover. Is it still produced? Will check. Thanks again.
tjmr2008 If the garage door catches sun, then it will definitely help. You can either put it about 1/2" away from the wood and work off the reflectivity quality of AtticFoil or staple directly to the wood and work off the emissivity quality of radiant barrier. Creating the space and working off the reflectivity quality will be a more effective.
Hello Ed.. I seem to be having trouble finding the product you mentioned in this video at a 1/2 thickness with the Thermasheathing.. Is sheathing and Thermasheathing the same?
A radiant barrier is really only good for a door in direct sunlight. The hotter the object, the more effective a radiant barrier. A door in the shade won't really get any hotter than ambient (outside) air temperature.
You should be able to buy the foam with the foil attached on one side at most home improvement/building supply stores. You can buy radiant barrier for your attic at AtticFoil(dot)com
The foam is just holding it in place? I thought there was something special about it. What are your feelings about using cardboard as a replacement for the foam. Cover the cardboard with the right amount of foil wrap and BAAAM! DIY Radiant barrier. =)
Take it from me if you live in a humid area you do NOT want to leave your scuttle or drop down stairs open in your garage if your air handler is in the attic. The extra humidity sucked into the attic will condense on the cooler insulation on your AC units lines and will drip through the insulation onto your ceiling and you will get damage on your ceiling from water. I had this happen to me when I left the stairs open in my garage for a couple of weeks while I was running new circuits and computer cable to all rooms in my home. Maybe it would be okay if you never opened your garage door to allow humidity in but who never opens their garage door? :)
Rulusan If your attic is ventilated with soffit vents and some type of exhaust vents, it doesn't matter. It's the same air (humid or not) coming through the garage as coming in the soffit vents. (outside air is outside air). If your ductwork and line sets are properly insulated, no warm-moist air should come in contact with cold surface causing condensation and dripping. I'd focus on those to prevent condensation. Remember this rule: COLD surface + relatively warm-moist air = Condensation.
Not really. This application method is primarily used to reduce Summer heat gain. For winter, you want to seal it up and use some traditional insulation to increase the R-Value of the door.
@@AtticFoil If you reverse the insulation panel and make the reflective side to be inside garage, it will keep the heat for colder climate. Correct me if I am wrong.
You need an airspace between the door and the foil. Radiant heat by definition is heat transfer across and airspace. If you push it up against the door, you will have contact and the heat will flow by conduction.
You will want to seal the door and bulk it up with insulation. Basically make the door thicker with more R-value. This will only help heat from being lost. This is assuming there is a heat source to begin with. Without a heat source, it's going to be cold no matter what.
For reflecting heat, all you need is the foil. The foam is just to hold the reflective foil in place. You never see a "thick" beach umbrella since you don't need it. IF you are in a colder area and you want to keep heat IN and make the garage WARMER then the thicker product will help.
Must have been vinyl. What brand of garage door is made from vinyl only?? I've seen insulated doors made with vinyl, but they wouldn't emit that much heat.
Thanks for making this video so popular! Once you do the garage door, you're ready to install www.AtticFoil.com in your home. It's like a giant tree instantly landed over your home.
You gained my respect, Sir, for recommending a "competitor's" product when it suited the application, instead of making up some nonsense to try to make a quick buck. Thanks for truly educating the customer base with your videos, and more importantly being a man of character. I'll be measuring my attic and placing an attic foil order this weekend!
Appreciate it. We are here to help if you need us.
That was super helpful, thank you, I just purchased a luxury car and it's about 20 degrees hotter in my garage than the normal temperature outside during the hot summer heat. Now all I need is a pick up truck to actually go buy these panels and bring them home.
I've watched a LOT of vids on this subject and this one made the most sense to me for radiant heat repulsion. This morning I was in my daughter's garage at 8am and the outside temp was eighty *, but the interior surface of the east-facing, uninsulated metal door was 102* measured w/ an infrared thermometer. I can't wait to try this and I don't think the extra weight of the material will pose a problem for the "balance" of the opener and spring. Thanks! BTW, you can order an infrared thermometer online for about $20. A really useful tool to own so you don't have to guess about temps.
Did you end up doing it?
My two car garage door has hurricane braces across the center of each panel. I still was able to use a 1 inch thick foam panel (foil on one side) from HD using my cutting idea. Cut each panel to fit tight then cut into fourths. When you cut, turn the line about ten or fifteen degrees. these odd shaped pieces will slide together much easier and fit tightly. Put a glob of glue at the center where the pieces converge. Put the foil to the outside (towards the panel) as a reflective barrier.
Loved your video. Just wanted to point out that my garage door had 7 different panel sizes, which would have gotten me in trouble had I cut all the panels to one size.
Yes, can be tricky.
Not sure about hurricane braces. You could test with a piece of cardboard. The radiant barrier is mainly used to reduce summertime heat gain from direct sun hitting the door. To keep the heat in during the winter you will want to go with a bulk insulation and make the door airtight. For a good all around solution, I would just put foam in the door without foil or an air space. Basically give your door a jacket. It will help some in the summer and a lot in the winter.
Works great however I wanted to secure the foam board. I injected Great Stuff foam thru the foam board. Use a Phillips screwdriver to punch five holes in each. Three seconds each hole.
Worked great.
You are right. The foil is doing all the work. You could use cardboard or any other product that will stay in the door channels. I just recommend the foam with the foil because it's a one-step shot. People ask me if they can use AtticFoil. If they have extra from installing in their attic, I tell them to use spray adhesive and apply it to foam board or cardboard like you mention. Otherwise, buying the foam/foil combo is fast, easy, looks nice and is relatively inexpensive.
The total weight of the foam board at most is only a few pounds. Considering doors can easily weigh a couple of hundred pounds, this small amount is trivial in how it will effect the spring.
Informative video... Nice guy who has tons of patience to follow up all questions.
Thanks
Ed, thanks very much for sharing this. I was struggling to determine the best option to help cool my garage from my East facing garage doors from the Texas heat. Your recommendation is perfect and by far the most economical. I do have a question before I start. I went to Lowe's and the panels come in 3 widths up to a maximum of 1". Will I get better results with thicker insulation? Logic would tell me yes, but to install it as recommended, I know it also has to be able to bend without breaking and I'm concerned the 1" thick board may be too rigid. Any thoughts? Thanks!
You could just cut the sheets into 48" x 24" pieces right in the parking lot and then trim to fit when you get home.
Perfect video for garage door insulation with a system to keep it cool. Thanks for sharing such an informative clipping.
Ed, not sure if you are still monitoring this video commentary all these years later, but question in hopes that you still are. If someone wanted a little "cleaner" look to the setup with the panels not bowing out, what if you used pieces of the same foam board cut in say, 1" strips, as "spacers" against the front of the garage door (maybe white side facing out, or would that even matter for these strips) and then put your full panels in on top of your strip spacers bringing the back of the foam board more flush with the framing/lip of each section, eliminating the bowing out? I know that the foam board you'd use would have to be thin enough that it still had that airgap in the rest of your "cell" but would something like this work? And if not strips of foam board, I think i did see one other video of a guy that used wooden shim slats for a similar (but MUCH more complicated) application, so maybe something like that half an inch in thickness, then your foam board resting on the slats and the rest of the area not touching the slats would be your air gap. Is what i'm trying to describe making any sense?
Anything will work. You just want metal> 1/4" or more airspace > Foil reflective surface. Simple.
@@AtticFoil Good deal Ed. Thanks for the reply. Actually sort of re-thinking (overthinking I'm sure) the idea of using foam board strips and maybe using something like wood or cork or rubber "stoppers"/cylinders in the four corners of each panel section. Something with less material and less conductivity, but hopefully robust enough to survive South Texas heat long term. Stalking options at big box and amazon that might serve this setup purposes. Anyway, thanks very much for your advice and for doing this video. Sooooo much different and more informative than so many of the other garage door insulation videos. Almost NOONE whose videos I've watched talks about the air gap. Most are just slapping whatever insulation they are using right against the innermost surface and calling it a day.
Just did this today, totally made a difference. How big a deal is the gap that the bow in the insulation makes? I feel like I should seal it up with some tape so hot air doesn't flow out, but I don't know if that would help or hurt. Thanks for making the video!
If you seal it up, then the air in the space will heat up and then more heat will travel by conduction across the foam. Remember, this video is to keep the garage COOLER in the Summer not to keep it warmer in the Winter.
For a SWFL garage door facing east (light brown metal garage door) and rooms above the garage plus with the idea of installing a mini-split system for AC. Do you think it would still be best to do the doors this way and also maybe add blow in insulation to the garage ceiling? I was told its not important to insulate the ceiling if there are rooms above it. They get awfully warm and I want to do everything I can to make the garage a comfortable temperature all year round and if possible, reduce the temperature of rooms above it.
If the door catches sun, then you definitely want to install a radiant barrier www.AtticFoil.com on the door. This article should help for hot rooms over garages: www.radiantbarrierguru.com/hot-rooms-in-my-house-how-to-make-them-more-comfortable-part-1/ There SHOULD be insulation between the sheetrock of the garage and the floor of the room above it. So, this is not really the problem. A radiant barrier ABOVE the room in the attic will have the biggest impact.
Beautifully explained! But if the foam on the garage door were thicker, wouldn't it be better? I know you said the foil does all the work, but doesn't the foam do some work too? Thanks! Nice job on this video!
The foam is really doing nothing no matter how thick. In this video I'm addressing specifically RADIANT HEAT coming off a hot (in the sun) garage door. So, all we need to do is reflect it. Since the foam is basically "floating" it really has no R-value.
Would it make sense to keep the foam "touching" the door and utilize it for its R-# properties.. with Foil side facing inwards towards garage. So the foam would be providing the necessary "airgap" for the foil to reflect the heat through? Or am I missing something. THanks!
If you seal it up, then the air in the space will heat up and then more heat will travel by conduction across the foam. Remember, this video is to keep the garage COOLER in the Summer not to keep it warmer in the Winter.
Hi Ed, that is a great idea but I think you've got the foil facing the wrong way. My understanding is the radiant barrier doesn't reflect heat. Instead, it absorbs it like anything else but the shiny side does not radiate it back out. Thus, you would want the foil side facing into your garage (so that the styrofoam absorbs the heat coming from the door but then the shiny side of the panel prevents it from radiating into the garage). Or am I missing something?
+Option1979 Yes, you are missing something. Aluminum foil has two qualities. Reflectivity and Emissivity. Reflectivity is where the the radiant heat actually reflects OFF the foil (as in this case with the foil facing the air space behind the door) and Emissivity where the foil will reduce the amount EMITTED from a hot surface. An example of this is wrapping a hot potato with foil will KEEP it hotter longer since it cannot EMIT radiant heat as easily. Foil laminated roof decks like TechShield work in the same way. Here is a video explaining the differences: ua-cam.com/video/uGP5KobU6R4/v-deo.html
What type of insulation on the garage door is best to retain heat? I want a warmer garage.
Yes, The foil side faces the door with an air space in between. The white side faces the inside of the garage.
Ed, I will like to do the same thing to my garage but I came across another youtube video where a thermo gun was used. The individual aimed it at the bare garage door, then at the foam and then at the foil. Having the foil facing out was much cooler then facing it towards the metal panel door. What's your take on this?
+jkl7097 Using an IR thermometer or thermal imaging camera for mesuring a surface temperature of a low emissivity surface never works. This is why you will NEVER see me measure the temperature of foil. For example, if you use a thermal imaging camera inside a home and point it at a mirror, it can sometimes read 40 degrees. We KNOW the mirror is NOT 40 degrees when the room is 75 degrees. So it's not accurate. You would need to peel part of the foil off, or put some black tape on it and measure again to get a "true" surface temperature. Here is more than you probably want to know about this: support.fluke.com/find-sales/Download/Asset/2563251_6251_ENG_B_W.PDF?trck=emissivityexplanation
THanks for the link. I'm an EE and work with IR cameras a bit and this was great info explained by Fluke.
Awesome! I thought this project would cost so much more.
Thank you for the reply
I meant that for reflecting heat, your technique is super fast and leaves an air-gap. There are multiple videos that advise fully packing the pocket with Perma. This requires more time (no air gap)so I was wondering if you think worth the time
I live in Miami, so I only worry about radiant heat
thanks
great videos on your wibesite!
If you are just talking about reflecting heat, then a radiant barrier is all you need. Think about going to the beach? Do you want an umbrella or a jacket?
Would putting rockwool in the air gap negate the radiant barrier effect? I'm looking to insulate a 2 car garage and reduce the noise to the outside, coming from the tools. What are your suggestions to obtain this?
Technically, you need an airspace. Insulation kinda falls into the grey area of "is it air or is a solid?" The more dense the product like foam board or dense backed insulation the less airspace and the more contact/conduction (or less benefit). Will it negate the effectiveness? Yes. How much? Tricky to exactly quantify it.
Hi Ed, great video, I have a ? "Required air space", I don't understand this aspect. I have lips in each of my garage door sections. I measured ~ 1/2" larger height wise, slid the insulation up & then moved it down so it would stay in place. What am I losing by not having the bubble/ air space? Thanks 4 your insight.
David Decker
Radiant heat by definition is heat flow in a "wave" or by non-contact. If you don't have an airspace, then by definition you really don't have radiant heat transfer. Whatever you put up will still help conductive heat flow based on whatever the R-value is though.
Mark Silagy - For the method described, having thicker foam is not really going to help much. The foam is really there just to hold the foil. Since the ends are open this is a Summer application. You would need to seal up the ends and make the door airtight to get any additional benefit (r-value) from thicker foam board.
AtticFoil Radiant Barrier Foil Insulation Ed, excellent video! I wish I would have watched 2 weeks ago. I just installed a DIY Home Depot garage installation kit that is basically just foam board. I did study up a little on the benefit of foam only and the rationale was the metal door itself is a radiant barrier and the foam board is the insulation, It does not sound like you agree with that concept?
echo444 A metal door is not necessarily a radiant barrier. Or, something that is VERY reflective is not necessarily a radiant barrier. For example, a chrome bumper is VERY reflective, but you would NOT want to sit on it in the sun. How much heat that is transferred through a door is a function of how much radiant heat it reflects and how much it "emits" into the garage.
If I wanted to help warm up the garage in the winter, and keep it cool in the summer, could I use some sort of batt or foam insulation with your AtticFoil attached to the back of it (foil facing inside the garage). In that case the insulation would act as an air gap, correct? Any tips or suggestions?
Insulation is not considered an air gap. But if you want year round benefit, I would still do it your way. The insulation will provide R-Value both in Summer and Winter, the foil will still work off emissivity in the Summer to reduce the heat emitted that makes it through the insulation.
If you want to RETAIN heat, you will want to make the door as airtight as possible and use insulation that will add R-value to the door. I would look to inserting foam panels in the door.
This would explain why it's been hot as hell in the garage since putting up insulation and covering it with plastic. We were completely hustling backwards. 🤦
@@TamaraARadiantBeing can you please elaborate on this I fear doing this same thing
Putting insulation in a non-conditioned garage is like building a refrigerator without a compressor, or basically making a big cooler and never having any ice. If you put hot car inside, it will STAY hotter for longer. This is great in the Winter, but not so good in the Summer.
So the foil foam board is suppose the bend and not be flush against the door? It’s suppose to have air flow behind it? I have a bonus room above the garage and it is humid & hot AF! Also does t help that that whole side of house is southern facing.
Yes, you want the gap between the hot garage door and the foil layer. Airflow is good. This method is for keeping heat OUT and not for keeping heat in in the Winter. If you have a South facing house, you should also consider installing www.AtticFoil.com in the attic above these rooms. It's will basically make it like a cloudy day and make the WHOLE home more comfortable and energy efficient. Read some of our reviews here: www.shopperapproved.com/reviews/AtticFoil.com/
Thanks for this. Now I need a truck and need to go to Lowes.
Is the silver foil sussposed to go inside or outside?
Check out our products for residential garage doors: bluetexinsulation.com/blogs/installations/residential-garage-door-installation
Will this work if you have multiple wind braces across the garage? will it bow out enough to go over the hurricane braces? Does the raidiant barrier still keep the garage warmer in the winter or does this only cool the garage in heat? I installed a ac vent in my garage and I want to insulate it so it is cooler in summer warmer in winter should I use this method or fiberglass insulation? Please Help.
Here in Texas its mainly the heat Im concerned about. But in my situation I put an A/C duct in the garage to have cool air and some heat in winter since I converted my garage into a nice home gym. I was thinking of using liquid nails to put perm r directly on the garage foil facing garage door then covering it all up with another layer of perma r on the outside of the windstorm braces. the braces are like beams running across garage and is 2 inch spce from garge to brace. how would you go about
LOVE your video and suggestions and can't wait to do it-- Thank you for creating this tutorial! I'm having a tough time locating the product you used in the video. In our area, Lowe's has it pre-cut to 0.75-in x 1.13-ft x 4-ft, but at $9.70 each, 16 panels would cost WAY more than I was hoping to spend. Plus, it's thicker than what you suggested, so I can't picture it bowing the way it would need to. There's a product called R-max that seems similar, but I know so little about this! Any suggestions?
You can use pretty any foil faced product. The R-Max will work fine. The R-max is just a denser foam. Typically it is an ISO board (polyisocyanurate) as compared to EPS (expanded polystyrene) or "StyroFoam".
Hi! I need to create a heat barrier for the harsh north Florida heat and winter do you think this will work on a metal shed door (tiny house)? I dont know what to do to insulate a metal shed door Maybe glueing some wood furrings all around the door then glueing or stapling foam to the wood furrings do you think this will work? Or do you have a better idea? I will appreciate your help thank you!
Jack, I would love to help. Can you send some pictures to www.AtticFoil.com - Contact us page? I can give you several ideas. And probably have pictures from other customers who have done something similar to send you.
Ed. Great video. very fast and easy technique. saw many videos that pack the pockets of the garage door, do you think its worth the extra time?
also do you think that installing the Perma R along the cement walls of the garage has added benefit? thank you
Is it worth it? Remember this video is to show the benefit of reflecting HEAT only. If the door is getting hot from the sun and radiating heat into the garage this method works great. If you are trying for year-round benefit. Then a more standard door insulation and air sealing will work best. As for the Perma R on the interior walls? Unless those walls are getting REALLY hot (like you can FEEL the radiant heat coming off them) then probably not a big benefit in the summer. As for Winter heat loss? Anything to add R-value to the walls will help.
Too late, already borrowed the truck and purchased the items. After this project Im gonna buy 2,000 sf of AtticFoil for my attic.
How would you go about using two layers one directly on door and the other glued on beams that give you a 2 inch space from the door. Which side of foil or foam goes directly on garage? Which side would face the room on the one that has the 2 inch space that is glued to the beams? Or would you just use one layer of perma r glued to the beams? The reason I want to use two is to have more insulation for cold but still get the radiant barrier for heat. Please help. It would be greatly appreciated.
I am a bit confused, So, radiant barrier is only going to be effective if the door is on direct sunlight?
Mine does not get sun light but it does get really hot in summer. (Dallas) . Should I get thicker insulation instead of aluminum foil sheets?
Luis, it can be confusing. The hotter an object gets, then the MORE radiant heat it emits. A garage door (or anything like a parked car) will not really get hotter then ambient (outside) air temperature if it's not exposed to the radiant heat from the sun. For example, your driveway in the sun and in the shade are totally different temperatures on a sunny day even though the AIR temperature is constant. If you garage is still really hot and the door does not catch direct sun, then the radiant heat must be hitting other walls or the roof? Installing a radiant barrier in the attic ABOVE a garage (it's a basic attic install) will usually make the garage must cooler. atticfoil.com/index.php/installation/staple-up-installation/
this is such an informative video - thanks. Question: I have hurricane braces (horizontal) mounted on the inside of my garage door (building code requirement for Florida). If the radiant barrier is supposed bow out a bit, my hurricane braces will not allow for this...would this make a huge difference in installation, especially if not glue or applying adhesive to hold them in place? Suggestions? Thanks.
You can do pretty much anything that works. If the door is catching direct sun, it's radiating the heat into the garage. You just want to block that path and reflect it back. Just get an airspace between the hot door and the foil and it will work.
I guess you could, however AtticFoil is easy to work with, tear-proof and a fraction of the cost compared to the foam/foil board. Compare prices at AtticFoil DotCom
How much room temperature difference do you experience after this install? And would attic foil or blown-in insulation over garage be better?
This video/page should help: atticfoil.com/index.php/knowledge-zone/knowledge-zone-faq-videos/faq-videos-how-much-cooler-should-my-attic-be-after-installing-a-radiant-barrier/ As for the the garage? If it's non-air conditioned, then AtticFoil will work best. If you plan on heating/cooling it, then you need regular insulation and treat it like the rest of the home.
@@AtticFoil I'm a bit confused. This video says that the Perma-R (foil board) works better than AtticFoil for garages... but you're saying that's only for air conditioned garages? I'm just looking to keep hot air out.. not concerned with cold temps (in Houston). I have a garage door services company, and I'm trying to find the right product to offer our customers. Thanks.
Very informative but you missed something.
I have 2 cars parked in the garage, and we are in Los angeles ( mostly hot weather) now the heat from the cars just parked inside the garage after closing the garage door will it be trapped inside?
This is a video about how to keep the garage cooler from the sun. If this is a huge problem, I would let them cool off for a while (the engine) before pulling into the garage.
I did this to my garage doors last year, but I live in Arizona and have found that after the sun drops the garage still stays pretty hot... So if you're in a hot climate I'd recommend to couple the insulation with an exhaust fan that is controlled with a thermocouple that starts after the sun drops to cool off the garage at night. Otherwise the stagnant air just stays superheated.
How much weight does the insulation add to the door? Keep in mind, extra weight makes the torsion spring useless.
Now the the extra weight has put more strain on on drive unit, reducing operating life.
If you wanted to do this properly you would need to weigh the insulation and order an appropriate spring to account for the extra weight.
Would this be good for keeping garage warmer in winter ?
This method/application is mostly to reflect heat out in the summer.
In the attic photos, the shiny foil is facing into the attic. Wouldn't that just be reflecting heat back into the attic and the house? I would think to cool the house you would need shiny material facing the underside of the roof, not into the attic.
Heat ONLY goes from hot to cold. The www.AtticFoil.com is double sided. You cannot "trap" heat. The top layer reflects the heat and the lower layer reduces heat by emissivity.
I live in the midwest and my 2car garage door faces east. Should put the foil up against the skin of the garage door or face the foil twards the inside of my garage. Does it make a difference which way the foil faces?
It will work best to keep the heat out by installing the foil facing the garage door. So, garage door, airspace, foil, then anything else.
the proper way to install radian barrier in an attic is with the metallic side facing in. why would it be facing out on a garage door?
Aluminum can work of the reflectivity or emissivity quality. The best way to reflect heat is to work off the reflectivity quality. (foil side towards heat source) Foil in works off the emissivity quality, which is ok but not as effective as facing out. Plus it looks better when the foil is hidden. In attics we recommend the double sided www.AtticFoil.com products.
What if you have a room over the garage? foil the ceiling with same attic foil possibly?
No, foil on the ceiling won't do much since the surfaces are not really absorbing much radiant heat. This might help: www.radiantbarrierguru.com/hot-rooms-in-my-house-how-to-make-them-more-comfortable-part-1/
I have windows in my garage door. Given that, is this worth doing? Will it still help cut down on the heat in the garage?
PK Texas If the door catches direct sun, the it is still definitely worth doing. You will just not get quite as good of results since you have some "holes" in the radiant barrier. For the windows you could add some low window film to reduce the heat gain.
Any thickness will work. All the foam is really doing is holding the foil in place. Anything less than 1/2' might not be rigid enough to stay in place.
Awesome Videos!! Going to buy attic foil real soon
I get the reflective aspect. However, is this not an issue with using foam insulation in a garage where there is a chance of a fire?
+Shawn Mazurk The foam will never get hot enough to self combust. As far as flammability there are typically a hundred of other things in a typical garage that will burn just as well in case of a fire.
Thank you Ed.
I think I made a mistake and bought the wrong stuff. Would GAF polyiso insulated sheathing be effective in this application?
+gburgs The foil reflective surface is the key. Any product that has a form of radiant barrier will work. We have had customers use AtticFoil and use spray adhesive to adhere to many different substrates. You COULD even use kitchen foil.
Outstanding video, many thanks.
The "Perma R" product is hard to find. Home Depot does not carry it and neither does Lowes at least as far as I can discover.
Is it still produced? Will check. Thanks again.
It is available, but you have to type it into your browser.
Thanks for the video. We have a wood garage door. Will this application still help?
tjmr2008 If the garage door catches sun, then it will definitely help. You can either put it about 1/2" away from the wood and work off the reflectivity quality of AtticFoil or staple directly to the wood and work off the emissivity quality of radiant barrier. Creating the space and working off the reflectivity quality will be a more effective.
Hello Ed.. I seem to be having trouble finding the product you mentioned in this video at a 1/2 thickness with the Thermasheathing.. Is sheathing and Thermasheathing the same?
+theresa herrera Don't recognize Thermasheathing?? Pretty much any foil faced product will work.
What about the winter and the cold
This video was intended to help keep your garage cool in the Summer.
Hi, can I use the Perma R in the Attic instead of the Aluminium foil ? It seems easy to manage
Does the foam on the door only effect when the garage door gets direct sunlight?
A radiant barrier is really only good for a door in direct sunlight. The hotter the object, the more effective a radiant barrier. A door in the shade won't really get any hotter than ambient (outside) air temperature.
You should be able to buy the foam with the foil attached on one side at most home improvement/building supply stores. You can buy radiant barrier for your attic at AtticFoil(dot)com
The foam is just holding it in place? I thought there was something special about it. What are your feelings about using cardboard as a replacement for the foam. Cover the cardboard with the right amount of foil wrap and BAAAM! DIY Radiant barrier. =)
I'm confused in that the "Perma R" material has a foil face but the panels are a white color. Please clarify.
Thanks!
Take it from me if you live in a humid area you do NOT want to leave your scuttle or drop down stairs open in your garage if your air handler is in the attic. The extra humidity sucked into the attic will condense on the cooler insulation on your AC units lines and will drip through the insulation onto your ceiling and you will get damage on your ceiling from water. I had this happen to me when I left the stairs open in my garage for a couple of weeks while I was running new circuits and computer cable to all rooms in my home. Maybe it would be okay if you never opened your garage door to allow humidity in but who never opens their garage door? :)
Rulusan If your attic is ventilated with soffit vents and some type of exhaust vents, it doesn't matter. It's the same air (humid or not) coming through the garage as coming in the soffit vents. (outside air is outside air). If your ductwork and line sets are properly insulated, no warm-moist air should come in contact with cold surface causing condensation and dripping. I'd focus on those to prevent condensation. Remember this rule: COLD surface + relatively warm-moist air = Condensation.
Hi there. How big are these sheets in the video? Thanks.
The full size sheets of foam/foil are 4' x 8' before being cut down to fit. I'm not sure of the exact size of the cut panels. I think about 21" x 44".
How would this work during winter in colder states?
Not really. This application method is primarily used to reduce Summer heat gain. For winter, you want to seal it up and use some traditional insulation to increase the R-Value of the door.
@@AtticFoil If you reverse the insulation panel and make the reflective side to be inside garage, it will keep the heat for colder climate. Correct me if I am wrong.
what size do i buy each sheet if i need 4? i have 16 panels.
You would probably need 4 sheets each 4'x8'
When do you put foil side toward door vs foam side toward door? Do you allow gaps between door and foam or keep it flush to door? What is the reason?
You need an airspace between the door and the foil. Radiant heat by definition is heat transfer across and airspace. If you push it up against the door, you will have contact and the heat will flow by conduction.
Hi guys, nice video. But at this time of year (January), I'm looking for something to keep my garage warm..
You will want to seal the door and bulk it up with insulation. Basically make the door thicker with more R-value. This will only help heat from being lost. This is assuming there is a heat source to begin with. Without a heat source, it's going to be cold no matter what.
I have see other thickness why the 1/2” and not the thicker ones
For reflecting heat, all you need is the foil. The foam is just to hold the reflective foil in place. You never see a "thick" beach umbrella since you don't need it. IF you are in a colder area and you want to keep heat IN and make the garage WARMER then the thicker product will help.
Hi where can I buy these foil?.Thanks
I don’t have these channels?
Then this method won't work for you.
inject Great Stuff to hold in place.
Dont. You need the dead air space.
@@PaintHerWhite No a dead airspace is not needed. This application is mostly to reflect heat in the Summer. You want a ventilated airspace.
The product Perma R is NOT 1/2" thick! It is 3/4". This is critical if you need to precisely fit the depth/cavity given your garage door panels.
Different sellers sell different thicknesses. But, it does come in 1/2".
1/2 inch, 3/4 inch and 1 inch at my Lowes.
Garage door melted after a couple of months 😂
Must have been vinyl. What brand of garage door is made from vinyl only?? I've seen insulated doors made with vinyl, but they wouldn't emit that much heat.
If you can, please send me some of your install pics support(at)atticfoil(dot)com