Roofs that use radiant barrier typically read 20-40 degrees COOLER below the roof than roofs without radiant barrier. Check out www.RoofingFoil.com for our all-in-one roofing underlayment product!
You could do both layers of foil. Just remember the outside layer is going to have the big impact at reducing heat gain. The second layer can only act on what gets through.
yes...the configurations of the metal panels allow for the air to 'travel'..additionally, we cut a vent along the ridge of the roof to allow additional air to escape the attic...this is covered with screen to defeat any insects...our clients realize 30% savings on AC and 15 on heat..plus they get a good little tax credit for using GREEN, which is metal. Great Video and explanation ..thanks !!
Check out our All-In-One Roofing Underlayment AND Radiant Barrier at www.RoofingFoil.com It also has the strict Miami-Dade County Approval/Certification
This is an older video. Now we have the all-in-one underlayment AND radiant barrier. It's all you need: www.roofingfoil.com/shop/single-sided-solid-foil-underlayment/
I would think under the metal roof is probably all you need. You MUST have an air space on one side, so using with foam can be tricky to get the required airspace. How do you propose doing this? Pleas list the "layers" coming from the outside. Also, what State are you in?
Sorry for the delay. I missed this comment. You would better off putting the foil over the roof even with the battens. Assuming the battens are probably 18"-24" apart, this will produce minimal thermal bypass. The key is to keep the roof deck from ever getting hot in the first place. You may also want to consider a "double batten" system. This minimizes thermal bypass and provides for good ventilation under the metal roof.
AtticFoil Radiant Barrier Foil Insulation The Batton system kind of alarms me, because by seeing what it does. The pieces of wood go Horizontal, so if any water gets in it stops the water from flowing down and would naturally look for a place to go. Which I would think would seep in through the nail holes from the battons. So wouldn't it actually ruin the ply wood underneath.
Brian H. If this is a concern, you have several options. First, a self sealing underlayment will keep water from getting through the nail holes. Second, if you want to go with just horizontal battens, simply score the bottom with a saw and make a few "slots" per piece. This will act as drainage or weep holes. Finally, the double batten system uses vertical battens on the bottom and horizontal battens on top. This leaves no place any water to potentially get caught. The main thing to remember is most likely very little water will will get behind the roof to start.
Would you recommend a foil radiant barrier with a metal roof, or do you think a metal roof does a decent job reflecting radiant heat on it's own? Thanks!
You absolutely want a radiant barrier under a metal roof. There are SOME roofs that are better at reflecting IR heat than others. However, just because something is "reflective" does not mean it won't get hot. Think of a chrome bumper on a car. VERY reflective but you would not want to sit on it! Our www.RoofingFoil.com is an all-in-one roofing underlayment AND radiant barrier specifically made for metal roofs and it's Miami-Dade Approved.
No, you MUST have an airspace on one side of the foil. Radiant heat by definition is heat transfer from one object to another without touching. Without the airspace, you cannot have radiant heat or a radiant barrier. Putting foil directly over a deck under asphalt shingles will act as a conductor of heat and basically do nothing. This video explains why an airspace is required: ua-cam.com/video/aympJmf4bUU/v-deo.html
Yes, in order to have radiant heat (and have a radiant barrier) you MUST have an airspace. It's possible to install with asphalt shingles but you must install inside the attic or raise the deck. Take a look at RadiantBarrierGuru Com and see how I did my roof. I used TWO decks and Two layers of foil.
Im about to install a metal roof on my home. Would it be more effective to install attic foil over my shingles and under my 1x4 lathe boards or would it be better stapled to the bottom of my rafters? Two different things are crossing my mind: 1. If its over the shingles, the 4 inch lathe boards will transfer heat through the foil into my attic. 2 If I put the foil in my attic, wont some of heat that is in my rafters and decking heat the surrounding air?. It's probably not much if any difference but I just wanted to know your thoughts about it. Thanks
Check out our All-In-One Roofing Underlayment AND Radiant Barrier at www.RoofingFoil.com It also has the strict Miami-Dade County Approval/Certification
Yes, our All-In-One Product (underlayment and radiant barrier) is Miami-Dade Approved. NOA is here: www.miamidade.gov/building/library/productcontrol/noa/18072403.pdf Product is here: www.roofingfoil.com/shop/single-sided-solid-foil-underlayment/ As far as finding a roofer? Keep looking. We sell a LOT of material in Florida.
do you not need a way for the radiant heat to flow up and out the roof? Should the One layer of 1x4 slats go Vertical and then a Second 1x4 slats go Horizontal. This allows the heat to travel up and out.
Radiant Heat does not "flow"- it's either absorbed or reflected. Yes, Ideally you want to combine airflow WITH a radiant barrier. This will maximize the effect since you will minimize the layer of hot air between the roof and the foil. This can be achieved several ways. The easiest way it to leave some gaps between the battens. Or, run them diagonally depending on the type of roof. Here is a page showing many different install methods: www.roofingfoil.com/how-to-install/how-to-install-under-metal-roofing/
In the video the foil is perforated. The underlayment is a self sealing membrane which IS a vapor barrier. In this case you do not want to have two vapor barriers. If moisture was to somehow get behind the foil, it would still have a way to dry.
If you already have the roof installed, what would be the retro fit procedure? Can you attach the foil above the batons and then place the tiles back on the roof? (The air gap will be between the back of the foil and the felt - the tiles will have direct contact with the tiles).
Yes, you could do this. I'd lay the foil across the battens but push it down about half way to the roof deck to minimize contact with the tile. Let the foil "droop" down a little bit.
Roofs that use radiant barrier typically read 20-40 degrees COOLER below the roof than roofs without radiant barrier. Check out www.RoofingFoil.com for our all-in-one roofing underlayment product!
You could do both layers of foil. Just remember the outside layer is going to have the big impact at reducing heat gain. The second layer can only act on what gets through.
yes...the configurations of the metal panels allow for the air to 'travel'..additionally, we cut a vent along the ridge of the roof to allow additional air to escape the attic...this is covered with screen to defeat any insects...our clients realize 30% savings on AC and 15 on heat..plus they get a good little tax credit for using GREEN, which is metal. Great Video and explanation ..thanks !!
Check out our All-In-One Roofing Underlayment AND Radiant Barrier at www.RoofingFoil.com It also has the strict Miami-Dade County Approval/Certification
Should felt be installed first, or is the radiant barrier installed directly to the roof decking?
This is an older video. Now we have the all-in-one underlayment AND radiant barrier. It's all you need: www.roofingfoil.com/shop/single-sided-solid-foil-underlayment/
I would think under the metal roof is probably all you need. You MUST have an air space on one side, so using with foam can be tricky to get the required airspace. How do you propose doing this? Pleas list the "layers" coming from the outside. Also, what State are you in?
Sorry for the delay. I missed this comment. You would better off putting the foil over the roof even with the battens. Assuming the battens are probably 18"-24" apart, this will produce minimal thermal bypass. The key is to keep the roof deck from ever getting hot in the first place. You may also want to consider a "double batten" system. This minimizes thermal bypass and provides for good ventilation under the metal roof.
AtticFoil Radiant Barrier Foil Insulation The Batton system kind of alarms me, because by seeing what it does. The pieces of wood go Horizontal, so if any water gets in it stops the water from flowing down and would naturally look for a place to go. Which I would think would seep in through the nail holes from the battons. So wouldn't it actually ruin the ply wood underneath.
Brian H. If this is a concern, you have several options. First, a self sealing underlayment will keep water from getting through the nail holes. Second, if you want to go with just horizontal battens, simply score the bottom with a saw and make a few "slots" per piece. This will act as drainage or weep holes. Finally, the double batten system uses vertical battens on the bottom and horizontal battens on top. This leaves no place any water to potentially get caught. The main thing to remember is most likely very little water will will get behind the roof to start.
AtticFoil Radiant Barrier Foil Insulation
Would you recommend a foil radiant barrier with a metal roof, or do you think a metal roof does a decent job reflecting radiant heat on it's own? Thanks!
You absolutely want a radiant barrier under a metal roof. There are SOME roofs that are better at reflecting IR heat than others. However, just because something is "reflective" does not mean it won't get hot. Think of a chrome bumper on a car. VERY reflective but you would not want to sit on it! Our www.RoofingFoil.com is an all-in-one roofing underlayment AND radiant barrier specifically made for metal roofs and it's Miami-Dade Approved.
Is it possible to make an air gap under Asphalt shingles? Or is it just tile and metal only.
is it the same procedure for the asphalt shingles using barrier foil ?
No, you MUST have an airspace on one side of the foil. Radiant heat by definition is heat transfer from one object to another without touching. Without the airspace, you cannot have radiant heat or a radiant barrier. Putting foil directly over a deck under asphalt shingles will act as a conductor of heat and basically do nothing. This video explains why an airspace is required: ua-cam.com/video/aympJmf4bUU/v-deo.html
Yes, in order to have radiant heat (and have a radiant barrier) you MUST have an airspace. It's possible to install with asphalt shingles but you must install inside the attic or raise the deck. Take a look at RadiantBarrierGuru Com and see how I did my roof. I used TWO decks and Two layers of foil.
Im about to install a metal roof on my home. Would it be more effective to install attic foil over my shingles and under my 1x4 lathe boards or would it be better stapled to the bottom of my rafters? Two different things are crossing my mind: 1. If its over the shingles, the 4 inch lathe boards will transfer heat through the foil into my attic. 2 If I put the foil in my attic, wont some of heat that is in my rafters and decking heat the surrounding air?. It's probably not much if any difference but I just wanted to know your thoughts about it. Thanks
Check out our All-In-One Roofing Underlayment AND Radiant Barrier at www.RoofingFoil.com It also has the strict Miami-Dade County Approval/Certification
Do you have Florida NOA for it?
Yes, our All-In-One Product (underlayment and radiant barrier) is Miami-Dade Approved. NOA is here: www.miamidade.gov/building/library/productcontrol/noa/18072403.pdf Product is here: www.roofingfoil.com/shop/single-sided-solid-foil-underlayment/ As far as finding a roofer? Keep looking. We sell a LOT of material in Florida.
do you not need a way for the radiant heat to flow up and out the roof? Should the One layer of 1x4 slats go Vertical and then a Second 1x4 slats go Horizontal. This allows the heat to travel up and out.
Radiant Heat does not "flow"- it's either absorbed or reflected. Yes, Ideally you want to combine airflow WITH a radiant barrier. This will maximize the effect since you will minimize the layer of hot air between the roof and the foil. This can be achieved several ways. The easiest way it to leave some gaps between the battens. Or, run them diagonally depending on the type of roof. Here is a page showing many different install methods: www.roofingfoil.com/how-to-install/how-to-install-under-metal-roofing/
this link does not work.
Not sure why? Just checked from a couple different computers/browsers. Working.
Is the attic foil you installed perforated?
In the video the foil is perforated. The underlayment is a self sealing membrane which IS a vapor barrier. In this case you do not want to have two vapor barriers. If moisture was to somehow get behind the foil, it would still have a way to dry.
Why not put the radiant barrier on top of the roof ? Then the roof will also not get radiation. Please shed some light
I guess you could if you don't mind the look of a sliver roof?
If you already have the roof installed, what would be the retro fit procedure? Can you attach the foil above the batons and then place the tiles back on the roof? (The air gap will be between the back of the foil and the felt - the tiles will have direct contact with the tiles).
Yes, you could do this. I'd lay the foil across the battens but push it down about half way to the roof deck to minimize contact with the tile. Let the foil "droop" down a little bit.
@@AtticFoil perfect, the droop makes sense. Next question, is there a supplier in Europe?
Sorry, No. You may be able to find a similar product.