I love your ingenuity to make your fixes and upgrades on a budget that we can all relate to. Well done Andris. I think this project deserves a “Super Mom” seal of approval.
Andris, that lever according to JapanMachineryParts is the control for the PTO. I’m pretty sure you’ll find that thread on that nipple is NPT,it’s tapered so that as you tighten it, it will seal itself, no thread tape required to prevent tape getting into the system and blocking control ports. I really appreciate a man who looks after his machinery and you do that very well mate, the new paint job was the icing on the cake. Another splendid video Andris, heaps of content, wit and the commentary was great, as always. Take care mate
Found your channel only last week thank youtube algorithm not. Enjoying your videos, your funny, don't pretend to know everything and keen to learn. Loving the dry sense of humor. Keep it up.
Hi Andris. Your personality and your whole being is an absolute credit to you, you look at every job logically a fix it accordingly. And you mange to do it all by yourself, I love watching you work. It gives me hope, I retired many years ago. Now I can’t physically do much, but seeing how you work is a great tonic. I thank you from the bottom of my heart. Never stop doing what you do, you’re more than just a video. The Yanmar looked fantastic after the paint job and the stickers. She looks brand new. Keep up the good work ✅
Andris, how in the world do you make working on a Yanmar look interesting?! 2 1/2 hours of you doing your repairs was a real bonus! Do that anytime you want to. Have a great weekend, take care
Good job! At 2:06:20 To remove tools from the tail stock, crank the handle to retract it fully. It will push the tool out for you. They are a friction fit with the taper. And the flat on the end is to keep the drill chuck or the taper adapters from spinning in the tail stock.
I believe tat steel is Hardox. The left lever at the back is the PTO selector lever. The pedal to the left is a 2 speed pedal. The lower lever under left consol could be to widening the tracks if its equiped with that option.
Yine shirli dokunuşlar yaptın.İnan bana, Camarata senin kadar becerikli değil.Hemen yenisini söylüyor ve geliyor... Sen ise yaratıyorsun ve yaşatıyorsun.
Someone may have already said this, but that rotary valve under the left side of the seat with all the hydraulic lines changes the control pattern. Most likely between ISO and SAE patterns. Different patterns change what functions control lever movements activate.
I don't know why I love to watch your videos. Maybe I have my father's mechanic genes. I really enjoy watching you figure things out. You definitely have a wealth of knowlege about almost everything!
For your track roller pin zerk fitting problem, could you weld a round pipe, similar to what you had. Just thread on some pipe caps on the ends. When it's time to lube them, unscrew the cap, service, and screw the cap back on.
hello the big valve on the left with several hydraulic pipes is for inferring the controls from left to right and vice versa and the lever on the left like a parking brake is a brake for the swing
Fabrication work my friend, cool Andris! I always enjoy watching you repairing your equipment and love your new modifications and additions in your workshop! I think your table will hold anything my friend!
2:24 As always, Andris has made every effort to present us with the best and most authentic sound effects 🤣👌 two and a half hours of the finest content 😘
Regarding the roller zerks, I would weld a 1 to 1.5 inch open pipe around the zerks. They will get jammed with dirt but will be protected from grinding them off. When it is time to grease the rollers just pull out the pressure washer to clean the zerks off.
I just clicked on the video without looking at the length. Its now 03:31 am in the Faroe Islands 🙂Fantastic stuff, I wish I had your energy. I have a small workshop in the basement of our house. I have some basic tools for mainly woodworking. So I´m down there pretending to be Antspants. You motivate me to try to do more, being more productive.
1:40:30 A short piece of pipe cut open - shaped like the letter U and welded on with the open end down would protect the grease fitting and allow easy cleanout.
Thanks Ants for a great two and a half hour of entertainment 👍 your Yanmar looks super chic, love the black panels with the dark and light blue - the only suggestion I would make it to use more of the dark blue. For the grease fittings I would go for your idea of the thick angled metal below the fittings. Your work on the cylinder was amazing, great to see you experimenting with the lathe. Best wishes to you and your family 🌿🌿🌿
Great job Antz. Yes I like the blue and black, but those red cylinders make it pop. And stickers make it even better. You have transformed the old girl. 👏
Wow, beautiful work, it looks really nice, the decals finished it off, the colors are so good! No CEE this weekend but Ants and Farmcraft gave us plenty!!!
I do like these longer videos, whatever the project, they are always interesting. Even though sometimes I haven’t a clue what you are doing. Thank you so much for making my day.
Well, look here Ant Van GoANT detailing the Yanmar. Inspector SuperMom making sure you were not slacking on the job and not setting things on fire! Hey, at least you made the Chinese Crap look better! Man, that lathe was a game changer! Great job!
My girl always says I can watch you vid every saturday morning before we do some cleaning together.. Let's just say I was not much of a help today!! Kudos my man!
Great job and that fitting is tapered pipe thread and use thread tape as sealant, cut off a small piece of threaded black iron pipe and use a screw on pipe plug to cover those grease fittings just put antisieze on the threads
there may be hardened teeth that slip and lock onto those bucket tooth stubs (common approach), the tapered thread is pipe thread (use teflon seal to wrap the thread), 4.5 mm drill bit is 3/16" diameter (freedom units), you can try to make a triangle bracket to move the top of the thumb cylinder out and back and use the cool new lathe to make bushings to tighten up the thumb joints, and back the tailstock on the lathe inside all the way then a pin inside will eject the morse taper tooling. so many options, so little time.
Thank you once again for this beautiful moment and everything you do, really fun and very interesting, thank again for sharing, have a nice week end 👍👍👍👍
2:11:40 some materials also work-harden when you go too slow. Going slow causes less chips to take the heat away, and a material can harder itself that way. Going for bigger chips keeps the material colder.
For the roller to protect the grease fittings: I would use the same pipe, but shorter pieces, maximum 1-3mm longer than the fitting, maybe even flush with the tip of the fitting. Less room for dirt, and due to less stickout smaller risk of getting ripped of, since you get less force on the shorter pieces. Leaving them blank could result in loosing them much faster.
The new fitting is likely a NPT (National Pipe Tapered) fitting or a BSPT (British Standard Pipe Tapered) or vise versa. But if the old male to male fitting is Parallel its likely an "Inverted Flare" fitting of some type. It could be JIS ( Japanese Industrial Standard) "30° Male Inverted Seat" which are interchangeable with BSPP (British Standard Pipe Paralell) connections. There seems to be a concave bevel on the face of the male fitting on the ID. If you look into the female fitting on the boom and there looks like a convex seat or like the tubing/ferrule end on a compression fitting (the nut side) its likely an inverted flare or BSPP/JIS Female. If that IS NOT the case then I would say it might be a JIS Tapered/BSP Tapered thread. It could also be "NPSM (National Pipe Straight Mechanical) " which would explain the 30° seat and straight threads on the old male fitting, and the fact that the new fitting will thread on but won't go in "all the way" and wont seal. But i doubt this. Both NPT and BSPT fittings seal on the threads (with use of pipe sealant) and are dimensionaly similar but not interchangeable., they have the same thread size but differnt pitches, they will thread together but not seal. Which would explain the leak you had... (This could also be lack of thread sealant) NPT (National Pipe Tapered) fittings will thread into BSPP and BSPT (and JIS T and JIS Inverted Seat) Fittings but wont seal properly, (even with pipe sealant). BSPT Fittings will thread into BSPP fitting and will seal with the aid of pipe sealant. Since its a Japanese machine the old male fitting MIGHT be a "JIS tapered" (aka BSPT) and the boom side female then is likely JIS Female Tapered (aka BSPT, aka British Standard Pipe Tapered) or a BSPP Female which will seal on the threads To a BSPT male without a gasket or oring (but with thread sealant) If the boom side is a BSPP female and the male fitting WAS a "BSPP Oring" (since your said the old male appeared parallel) and that oring has perished/been lost, but these are usually only present on swivel fittings .. if any of this was the case though it would likely leak, unless a LOT torque and pipe sealant/old paint (visible on the old fitting) somehow molded themselves enough to seal. But as i said if the old fittings male threads are parallel and there is no place for an oring, and the female fitting looks to be a CONVEX cone in it my guess would be be some sort of inverted flare fitting or more likely a JIS ( Japanese Industrial Standard) "30° Male Inverted Seat" or BSPP both of which has parallel thread connections and a fundamentally interchangeable.
@@audiquattro6768 Do that make JIC inverted flare?, The expected end of a JIC would be a male fitting with a CONVEX sealing surface.. where as both side are concave on this fitting. My guess is its an inverted flare type fitting (convex sealing surface on the female side), more specifically and most likely a "JIS 30° Inverted Seat" AKA BSPP.
I think that the thing with many hydraulic lines is to change the pattern of control usage. Since you are accustomed to the controls as they are now, to change it would be unnecessary.
If you bend some 6mm polycarbonate sheet to wrap around the roof, it should add enough strength to make the roof roll over protection as well. Just bolt in in the outside of the metal bars to stop the roof folding sideways.
According to some parts books I have as pdf-files, the lever behind the red one is a P.T.O Control. Do let me know if you want the parts books. It's for a Yanmar B22 and a Yanmar B22-2. Great videos :) Keep em coming. Greetings from Norway :)
Hi Andris, tapred thread is correct ,the more you tighten the better it should seal if threads are ok. maybe try some teflon tape on threads. 4.76mm is same as 3/16 inch imperial. The logo on pedal looks like a hydraulic drill that fits to the boom. The bucket is easily fixed you know how, don't be silly hahaha, Many thanks for the entertainment, from UK.
Hi Ants. You can make jams (e.g plummer inch jams from OBI, or diy wood jams), for rollers grease point tubes and add reinforcing gussets to protect it.
I love your videos as much as I love diesel creek and Camarata. More in some regards. Your smaller shop is something I can personally relate to. As much as Id love a giant shipping container castle shop, or a sweet shop with heated floors... I am more familiar with staying busy to stay warm
Place the hand drill on the left side of your body so as it wants to spin the whole drill to the right your body is up against the drill and helping keep it from spinning out of your hands. Be careful because it can still spin out of control.
Some of the best work and entertainment on YT. You deserve at least 10 times more subscribers. Enjoyed every minute and it's good that Super Mom checks up on you too. No telling what fix you might find yourself in that she will have to get you out of. Greetings from Houston.
Just wanted to make a suggestion. Buy yourself or build the crimper for crimping the hydraulic pipes, you can get them to fit on your hydraulic press. When you have a pipe bust the pipe work is normally fairly cheap its the hydraulic fittings that coost alot. I did this years ago and have save tons of money. Take your old pipe cut off the fitting and as long as they were not wot was leaking and knackered you either put them in the lathe and remove the crimped part which is literally just a piece of tube, once thats removed all thats left is a barbed fitting , you then weld on a new piece of tube which needs to be the same internal measurement so you won't have problems sliding the new rubber tube back on then re-crimp your fitting and boom done. Obviously between cutting the old crimp off clean up the overal fitting with a wire brush. My crimper cost me £165 which was 5 years ago and it paid for itself affter replacing 3 pipes as you can also use old pipe as alot of the time a bust pipe is caused by rubbing and the rest of the pipe especially if its inside the machine is like new. I've not had 1 of my remade pipes with old fitting bust. It honestly works I only use my machines on a farm or doing friends favours it saves you loads of money and you dont lose days cause of down time etc takes about an hour if that once you know wot your doing .
I love the color combo and decals. I have a Japanese motorcycle t-shirt in the same blue with printing that looks a lot like the excavator. If I ever go back to Japan I’ll get you one 😊
Bro, taper on hydraulic fitting is pipe thread (supposed to get tighter as it’s screwed in). Lever at the back left is your warp drive (when you want to exceed C on your PTO). Search in your Japanese owner’s manual for “hidden grease zerks” to find all of them (I hate when they do that). Definitely take those buckets to a good Estonian dental tech for some new dentures (teeth are normal wear maintenance items, plus your machine will then be able to consume solid food again!)
The signal horns are a set of two (mirrored) with different frequencies because you're supposed to have them both mounted under the hood, sounding at the same time.
Another great video, Andris. Some great fixes. Is that lever that does nothing a slew lock. To lock the machine from slewing or turning independently from the undercarriage
Could be? it was not hooked up to anything though, or it was rusted away, i have not been able to get a service manual for this unit and the parts catalog does not say anything about that thing.
Hey Andris, Mick here. What you call teeth on the bucket are actually the anchors for the teeth. You need new anchors and teeth that slide over the anchors.
Good morning Ants Pants, I heard you talking about problems with drilling through hardened steel. Let me tell you what works for me perfectly. I take a drillbit, that is ment to drill through stone or concrete. I sharpen the braised tip as drillbits you use for mild steel. Then these concrete bits drill through hardened steel as a hot knife through butter. Be sure that you use a slow drillingspeed and enough cooling. The tip of a stone drill is the same material as that, what you braise on bits using to cut steel on a lathe.
I would bet that unknown control by the seat is to reverse the hydraulic controls, south hemisphere versus north. I mean, you be filling in the hole when you actually meant to dig it. 🙂 To get the live center out of the tail stock, I think you wind it in all the way, then the insert should pop out.
It may be a BSPT (brittish standard pipe tapered). Both NPT and BSPT needs some sort of sealant. NPTF (fuel) is drysealing. NPT has 60 degrees and BSP has 55 degrees.
Tapered male threads (NPTT) should not be used on parallel female threads. Tapered threads are usually for air not hydraulic. Parallel threads (BSPT) usually have a thread sealant or Dowty compound washer). I use 3M liquid hydraulic sealant.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I love your ingenuity to make your fixes and upgrades on a budget that we can all relate to. Well done Andris. I think this project deserves a “Super Mom” seal of approval.
hehe yeah
@@Ants_Pants Weld teeth And 15:27 this dirty stuff turns people off subscribing.
Andris, that lever according to JapanMachineryParts is the control for the PTO. I’m pretty sure you’ll find that thread on that nipple is NPT,it’s tapered so that as you tighten it, it will seal itself, no thread tape required to prevent tape getting into the system and blocking control ports. I really appreciate a man who looks after his machinery and you do that very well mate, the new paint job was the icing on the cake. Another splendid video Andris, heaps of content, wit and the commentary was great, as always. Take care mate
Cheers
Found your channel only last week thank youtube algorithm not. Enjoying your videos, your funny, don't pretend to know everything and keen to learn. Loving the dry sense of humor. Keep it up.
got it boss👍
America loves you & all your family.. Thank you for just being you....
thanks Francis
I don't know what he is doing but his videos hold my interest. I guess I'm here for the paint and stickers, and of course the charm of Andris. 😊
Hi Andris. Your personality and your whole being is an absolute credit to you, you look at every job logically a fix it accordingly. And you mange to do it all by yourself, I love watching you work. It gives me hope, I retired many years ago. Now I can’t physically do much, but seeing how you work is a great tonic. I thank you from the bottom of my heart. Never stop doing what you do, you’re more than just a video. The Yanmar looked fantastic after the paint job and the stickers. She looks brand new. Keep up the good work ✅
Thanks sir 😇
Andris, how in the world do you make working on a Yanmar look interesting?! 2 1/2 hours of you doing your repairs was a real bonus! Do that anytime you want to. Have a great weekend, take care
The paint job looks great, the sky blue is so cute!
idk bro, magic
i think so too
@@Ants_Pantsthat is so true!
Good job!
At 2:06:20 To remove tools from the tail stock, crank the handle to retract it fully. It will push the tool out for you. They are a friction fit with the taper. And the flat on the end is to keep the drill chuck or the taper adapters from spinning in the tail stock.
Beat me to it
yeah i figured it out a bit later :D
I believe tat steel is Hardox.
The left lever at the back is the PTO selector lever.
The pedal to the left is a 2 speed pedal.
The lower lever under left consol could be to widening the tracks if its equiped with that option.
it's not, but there is a hydraulic pin that comes out from under the machine to lock swing. Might be that
what do you mean about the PTO selector?
Im guessing changing the flow rate. @@Ants_Pants
I also think it's the swivel lock lever...
Haven't even started watching but i give the thumbs up 😂. Friday night with 2 and a half hours of mad DIY stuff from Andris what more can you want 😂
There are several tubers I give the thumbs up upon starting the video, to make sure I don't forget, Andris is one of them.
thanks dude
👌❤
I like the long videos, from start to finish is much better than 1 short episode a week!
Phil UK
Good to know!
It's the highlight of my week when I can watch one of your DIY projects. Always an adventure in cobulation. 👍👍
hehe
Yine shirli dokunuşlar yaptın.İnan bana, Camarata senin kadar becerikli değil.Hemen yenisini söylüyor ve geliyor...
Sen ise yaratıyorsun ve yaşatıyorsun.
Someone may have already said this, but that rotary valve under the left side of the seat with all the hydraulic lines changes the control pattern. Most likely between ISO and SAE patterns. Different patterns change what functions control lever movements activate.
Thank you
I don't know why I love to watch your videos. Maybe I have my father's mechanic genes. I really enjoy watching you figure things out. You definitely have a wealth of knowlege about almost everything!
Sounds like a solid reaaon 👍
For your track roller pin zerk fitting problem, could you weld a round pipe, similar to what you had. Just thread on some pipe caps on the ends. When it's time to lube them, unscrew the cap, service, and screw the cap back on.
hello the big valve on the left with several hydraulic pipes is for inferring the controls from left to right and vice versa and the lever on the left like a parking brake is a brake for the swing
🎉👍
Fabrication work my friend, cool Andris! I always enjoy watching you repairing your equipment and love your new modifications and additions in your workshop! I think your table will hold anything my friend!
can't park Joseph on it though
Holy Heck! Two and a half hours! I gotta start planning my Fridays around these.🤓 Cheeeeers Lad!
haha
2:24 As always, Andris has made every effort to present us with the best and most authentic sound effects 🤣👌
two and a half hours of the finest content 😘
always 👌
Regarding the roller zerks, I would weld a 1 to 1.5 inch open pipe around the zerks. They will get jammed with dirt but will be protected from grinding them off. When it is time to grease the rollers just pull out the pressure washer to clean the zerks off.
I just clicked on the video without looking at the length. Its now 03:31 am in the Faroe Islands 🙂Fantastic stuff, I wish I had your energy. I have a small workshop in the basement of our house. I have some basic tools for mainly woodworking. So I´m down there pretending to be Antspants. You motivate me to try to do more, being more productive.
Wish i had more time to focus on woodworking :( Maybe one day hehe
1:40:30 A short piece of pipe cut open - shaped like the letter U and welded on with the open end down would protect the grease fitting and allow easy cleanout.
N9ce job on the Yanmar, I just looked at video when you first got it. Great job bringing her back to life.
well deserved
Good video, even though I have zero interest in this machine, your video had me interested in the process of repairs for the full 2.5hrs!👍
hehe, glad i could be in service
That was a lot of work. Still not the worst mini excavator I have seen. Found useful tips I can use myself, thanks man.
Glad I could help
As usual you're able to get things done. Great video.
Thanks 👍
Wow wow what an overhaul. I did not see the total clean down and paint job coming. True ants pants mode. Well done.
Thanks 👍
Thanks Ants for a great two and a half hour of entertainment 👍 your Yanmar looks super chic, love the black panels with the dark and light blue - the only suggestion I would make it to use more of the dark blue. For the grease fittings I would go for your idea of the thick angled metal below the fittings.
Your work on the cylinder was amazing, great to see you experimenting with the lathe. Best wishes to you and your family 🌿🌿🌿
Thank you very much :)
Thanks for the great video Mr Pants 😃 Your videos can never be too long in my opinion.
Glad you like them!
41:10 that thing probably changes the control pattern from SAE to ISO.
yes. it is the pattern changer.
cool
Great job Antz. Yes I like the blue and black, but those red cylinders make it pop. And stickers make it even better. You have transformed the old girl. 👏
😇 thanks sir
Wow, beautiful work, it looks really nice, the decals finished it off, the colors are so good! No CEE this weekend but Ants and Farmcraft gave us plenty!!!
Thanks a bunch!
I do like these longer videos, whatever the project, they are always interesting. Even though sometimes I haven’t a clue what you are doing. Thank you so much for making my day.
Glad you like them!
New teeth for that bucket will make a world of difference, and they shouldn't be too expensive. Definitely worth the $ in my opinion.
I'm not sure I'd bother with the bolts tho. Just weld new teeth right to the bucket. Most are anyway.
@@rbhe357 agreed, or take a chunk of dozer cutting edge and weld that on
@@rbhe357I agree with that, new teeth welded on would work!
What that guy said.
I think you mean £
Well, look here Ant Van GoANT detailing the Yanmar. Inspector SuperMom making sure you were not slacking on the job and not setting things on fire! Hey, at least you made the Chinese Crap look better! Man, that lathe was a game changer! Great job!
😇👍
My girl always says I can watch you vid every saturday morning before we do some cleaning together.. Let's just say I was not much of a help today!! Kudos my man!
You're the best!
Great job and that fitting is tapered pipe thread and use thread tape as sealant, cut off a small piece of threaded black iron pipe and use a screw on pipe plug to cover those grease fittings just put antisieze on the threads
hmm ok
Thank you for sheering this project, the time just flow
🤙
thanks
there may be hardened teeth that slip and lock onto those bucket tooth stubs (common approach), the tapered thread is pipe thread (use teflon seal to wrap the thread), 4.5 mm drill bit is 3/16" diameter (freedom units), you can try to make a triangle bracket to move the top of the thumb cylinder out and back and use the cool new lathe to make bushings to tighten up the thumb joints, and back the tailstock on the lathe inside all the way then a pin inside will eject the morse taper tooling. so many options, so little time.
Thumbs up for muh "freedom units." Ah what once was.
More than 2 hour! What a great moment when I saw that after work 😍
Andris, good look with your restored sky blue baby 😎
thanks
Wau , das Ding ist ja wie Neu 👌 was Du alles machst ist schon der Wahnsinn. Mein Respekt 👏👏👏
❤👍
Thank you once again for this beautiful moment and everything you do, really fun and very interesting, thank again for sharing, have a nice week end 👍👍👍👍
Thank you
2:11:40 some materials also work-harden when you go too slow.
Going slow causes less chips to take the heat away, and a material can harder itself that way. Going for bigger chips keeps the material colder.
Ohh thats a useful tip
The Craigslist overhaul looks great. Plus your humor makes for some very entertaining content.
hey and thanks
For the roller to protect the grease fittings: I would use the same pipe, but shorter pieces, maximum 1-3mm longer than the fitting, maybe even flush with the tip of the fitting. Less room for dirt, and due to less stickout smaller risk of getting ripped of, since you get less force on the shorter pieces. Leaving them blank could result in loosing them much faster.
Nice colour combo bro, you could probably see this mini excavator from space now. Cheers Ants Pants for 2.5 hours of juicy content.
Thanks 👍
The new fitting is likely a NPT (National Pipe Tapered) fitting or a BSPT (British Standard Pipe Tapered) or vise versa. But if the old male to male fitting is Parallel its likely an "Inverted Flare" fitting of some type. It could be JIS ( Japanese Industrial Standard) "30° Male Inverted Seat" which are interchangeable with BSPP (British Standard Pipe Paralell) connections.
There seems to be a concave bevel on the face of the male fitting on the ID. If you look into the female fitting on the boom and there looks like a convex seat or like the tubing/ferrule end on a compression fitting (the nut side) its likely an inverted flare or BSPP/JIS Female. If that IS NOT the case then I would say it might be a JIS Tapered/BSP Tapered thread.
It could also be "NPSM (National Pipe Straight Mechanical) " which would explain the 30° seat and straight threads on the old male fitting, and the fact that the new fitting will thread on but won't go in "all the way" and wont seal. But i doubt this.
Both NPT and BSPT fittings seal on the threads (with use of pipe sealant) and are dimensionaly similar but not interchangeable., they have the same thread size but differnt pitches, they will thread together but not seal. Which would explain the leak you had... (This could also be lack of thread sealant)
NPT (National Pipe Tapered) fittings will thread into BSPP and BSPT (and JIS T and JIS Inverted Seat) Fittings but wont seal properly, (even with pipe sealant).
BSPT Fittings will thread into BSPP fitting and will seal with the aid of pipe sealant.
Since its a Japanese machine the old male fitting MIGHT be a "JIS tapered" (aka BSPT) and the boom side female then is likely JIS Female Tapered (aka BSPT, aka British Standard Pipe Tapered) or a BSPP Female which will seal on the threads To a BSPT male without a gasket or oring (but with thread sealant)
If the boom side is a BSPP female and the male fitting WAS a "BSPP Oring" (since your said the old male appeared parallel) and that oring has perished/been lost, but these are usually only present on swivel fittings .. if any of this was the case though it would likely leak, unless a LOT torque and pipe sealant/old paint (visible on the old fitting) somehow molded themselves enough to seal.
But as i said if the old fittings male threads are parallel and there is no place for an oring, and the female fitting looks to be a CONVEX cone in it my guess would be be some sort of inverted flare fitting or more likely a JIS ( Japanese Industrial Standard) "30° Male Inverted Seat" or BSPP both of which has parallel thread connections and a fundamentally interchangeable.
Likely JIC since it’s made in Japan.
Well said!
yup
@@audiquattro6768 Do that make JIC inverted flare?, The expected end of a JIC would be a male fitting with a CONVEX sealing surface.. where as both side are concave on this fitting. My guess is its an inverted flare type fitting (convex sealing surface on the female side), more specifically and most likely a "JIS 30° Inverted Seat" AKA BSPP.
2" reciever hitch on the back of the bucket for moving trailers is what i believe you discarded on the bigger bucket and asked about
New teeth will make digging much easier, especially in rocky soil. Thanks for the vids.
Very true!
2 and a half hours of Ants! Woohoo, it's like Christmas in...well December! Great job on the Yanmar...love the stickers! Color looks great!
hehe :)
I think that the thing with many hydraulic lines is to change the pattern of control usage. Since you are accustomed to the controls as they are now, to change it would be unnecessary.
I agree.
That was very fast 2,5 hours. Thank you :) more of these.
Glad you enjoyed it!
If you bend some 6mm polycarbonate sheet to wrap around the roof, it should add enough strength to make the roof roll over protection as well. Just bolt in in the outside of the metal bars to stop the roof folding sideways.
Thanks!
New wear flat bars on the bottom outside of the bucket would help from extra wear also!
Thanks for sharing it with us and no video is to long
thanks
According to some parts books I have as pdf-files, the lever behind the red one is a P.T.O Control. Do let me know if you want the parts books. It's for a Yanmar B22 and a Yanmar B22-2. Great videos :) Keep em coming. Greetings from Norway :)
I ment B27-2.
Yeah i have that one. What does PTO control do though? :D
Absolutely enjoyed this video. Thanks for your hard work. Awesome.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Andris, you REALLY need a acetylene torch set up! Work on getting that! It will make so many things so much easier!
yup i do
I think the Yanmar looks cool with the decals on👍🏼👌🏼
me too
Привет Антс, отличная работа молодец так держать удачи тебе и твоей семье.
❤
Hi Andris, tapred thread is correct ,the more you tighten the better it should seal if threads are ok. maybe try some teflon tape on threads. 4.76mm is same as 3/16 inch imperial. The logo on pedal looks like a hydraulic drill that fits to the boom. The bucket is easily fixed you know how, don't be silly hahaha, Many thanks for the entertainment, from UK.
That lever by the seat is for the ejection seat. One time use..
HAHA :D the parts catalog says it's "PTO CONTROL" what ever that means :D
Hi Ants. You can make jams (e.g plummer inch jams from OBI, or diy wood jams), for rollers grease point tubes and add reinforcing gussets to protect it.
Black pipe threads start out narrow and they get wider, this helps them seal.
I love your videos as much as I love diesel creek and Camarata. More in some regards. Your smaller shop is something I can personally relate to. As much as Id love a giant shipping container castle shop, or a sweet shop with heated floors... I am more familiar with staying busy to stay warm
thats good to hear :) something relate to
That lever may change the pattern for the controls, so you assign different control patterns. Wow she looks almost new!
@ Andrew camarata did a breakdown of his yanmar a few years ago he explains the pedal and levera I think
yup, pattern changer, no need to touch it.
Nicely painted and maintained Andris!
Yeah
1:29 you can buy a piece of seamless pipe, turn the outside to bucket, inside to pin, hammer them in place and weld them in place
hmm could work yeah
Watched to the end and you got my vote, good job all around. Very entertaining. Wish you lots of good health. All the best for the new year.
Thanks bud
Place the hand drill on the left side of your body so as it wants to spin the whole drill to the right your body is up against the drill and helping keep it from spinning out of your hands. Be careful because it can still spin out of control.
Some of the best work and entertainment on YT. You deserve at least 10 times more subscribers. Enjoyed every minute and it's good that Super Mom checks up on you too. No telling what fix you might find yourself in that she will have to get you out of. Greetings from Houston.
Thanks a bunch mate
I'm glad I found this channel. Been an Andrew fan for a long time but his channel isn't as it use to be. Antspants is the best❤
Welcome aboard!
Fantastic repair series and entertaining got to love these videos.
Excellent video. Love your long videos. Don't make them shorter.
Noted!
Your lathe skills are spot on. Great video.
Your mystery lever could change the drive motor - not gear - but swash-plate angle and make it go faster.
some shady parts catalog says its "PTO CONTROL", but that's all. Not much to go on.
Watched the whole video in one piece and it was so entertaining that I didnt realise how long it was. Thx alot for it 👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Just wanted to make a suggestion. Buy yourself or build the crimper for crimping the hydraulic pipes, you can get them to fit on your hydraulic press. When you have a pipe bust the pipe work is normally fairly cheap its the hydraulic fittings that coost alot. I did this years ago and have save tons of money. Take your old pipe cut off the fitting and as long as they were not wot was leaking and knackered you either put them in the lathe and remove the crimped part which is literally just a piece of tube, once thats removed all thats left is a barbed fitting , you then weld on a new piece of tube which needs to be the same internal measurement so you won't have problems sliding the new rubber tube back on then re-crimp your fitting and boom done. Obviously between cutting the old crimp off clean up the overal fitting with a wire brush. My crimper cost me £165 which was 5 years ago and it paid for itself affter replacing 3 pipes as you can also use old pipe as alot of the time a bust pipe is caused by rubbing and the rest of the pipe especially if its inside the machine is like new. I've not had 1 of my remade pipes with old fitting bust. It honestly works I only use my machines on a farm or doing friends favours it saves you loads of money and you dont lose days cause of down time etc takes about an hour if that once you know wot your doing .
cool idea, i need to look into this
Fantastic transformation .
Great job
It looks amazing 🎉
Yep! The old girl has come up a treat Andris! Looks great! Thanks for an extra long piece of entertainment!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very good job, as usual 👍
I love the color combo and decals. I have a Japanese motorcycle t-shirt in the same blue with printing that looks a lot like the excavator. If I ever go back to Japan I’ll get you one 😊
That's cool man
Bro, taper on hydraulic fitting is pipe thread (supposed to get tighter as it’s screwed in). Lever at the back left is your warp drive (when you want to exceed C on your PTO). Search in your Japanese owner’s manual for “hidden grease zerks” to find all of them (I hate when they do that). Definitely take those buckets to a good Estonian dental tech for some new dentures (teeth are normal wear maintenance items, plus your machine will then be able to consume solid food again!)
gotcha
Enjoyed your videos from East.Texas
The signal horns are a set of two (mirrored) with different frequencies because you're supposed to have them both mounted under the hood, sounding at the same time.
hmm ok
@@Ants_Pants Of course you don’t have to. 😄 But a two-tone honk sounds bigger and louder.
Man, I love the way you say URICA!!! When you retrieve A lost part or succeeded in a task!!! I can relate!!!
😅
Another great video, Andris. Some great fixes. Is that lever that does nothing a slew lock. To lock the machine from slewing or turning independently from the undercarriage
Could be? it was not hooked up to anything though, or it was rusted away, i have not been able to get a service manual for this unit and the parts catalog does not say anything about that thing.
@@Ants_Pants messaged you on Instagram with a parts manual and exploded diagrams. Austin
I wish I could hit “like” 5,000x. Awesome work and your humor makes me look forward to your Friday videos!
Once is enough 😇
This guy is gonna be a big channel if he keeps it up.
Higher, further, faster
Your the man! Great job, looks brand new!! 😊
Hey Andris, Mick here. What you call teeth on the bucket are actually the anchors for the teeth. You need new anchors and teeth that slide over the anchors.
ohh lol :D
Good morning Ants Pants, I heard you talking about problems with drilling through hardened steel. Let me tell you what works for me perfectly. I take a drillbit, that is ment to drill through stone or concrete. I sharpen the braised tip as drillbits you use for mild steel. Then these concrete bits drill through hardened steel as a hot knife through butter. Be sure that you use a slow drillingspeed and enough cooling. The tip of a stone drill is the same material as that, what you braise on bits using to cut steel on a lathe.
Yeah their carbide.
I would bet that unknown control by the seat is to reverse the hydraulic controls, south hemisphere versus north. I mean, you be filling in the hole when you actually meant to dig it. 🙂
To get the live center out of the tail stock, I think you wind it in all the way, then the insert should pop out.
It's labeled as "PTO control" whatever that means lol. Yes you are correct about the tail stock
Hey bro, the excavator looks amazing, and that was some smooth fabrication on the track tensioner. Have a great weekend buddy ✌
Thanks 👍
1:04:02 the worlds most badass hydraulic foot lever 😂
next one out of 400mm I-beam maybe?
"One guy is crushed and another guy is going to party". Hahaha. That cracked me up. 😂 Great video
😁
That is a national pipe tread "NPT" fitting it's tapered so it gets tighter as it's tightened . Can be used with pipe dope or teflon tape 👍
It may be a BSPT (brittish standard pipe tapered). Both NPT and BSPT needs some sort of sealant.
NPTF (fuel) is drysealing.
NPT has 60 degrees and BSP has 55 degrees.
Tapered male threads (NPTT) should not be used on parallel female threads. Tapered threads are usually for air not hydraulic. Parallel threads (BSPT) usually have a thread sealant or Dowty compound washer). I use 3M liquid hydraulic sealant.
Your videos are a lot of fun to watch by the way!
thanks