Swisher 44" Mower, Good & Bad
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- Опубліковано 10 гру 2024
- Swisher 44" "Trailmower. Model # T11544. 11.5 hp. I've been needing a mower like this for sometime now. Something to mow along my driveway and a small section of grass out at the main road, without having to hook up a big bush hog for 15 minutes of work. When Amazon had this on sale for $989 and free shipping, I went for it. It was advertised as a "Trailmower" and it turns out it isn't. The owner's manual clearly says, 44" Finish Cut Trailmower. Amazon should have been clear on that.
Am I happy with it? YES, now I am.
I use a Honda Foreman 500 to tow this mower and it works good. But you can also use a golf cart, lawn tractor, or UTV.
Some problems "I" have with this mower are:
Height adjustment. 1.5" to 4.5" per the manual. That doesn't work for me. By removing the rear discharge chute, I was able to lower the height adjustment rod and gain another 1.5". Now my blades are about 6" from the ground.
Grass collection in the belt compartment. I can't believe how much grass gets into the belt compartment. The only solution I've come up with is to remove both covers and blow the grass out after every use.
Hard to start. The first few times I started this mower, it started on the first pull. But soon it became a real pain in the ass to get it started. I found that the neutral safety switch was out of adjustment and that was an easy fix. Maybe it wasn't tightened down properly at the factory and vibrated loose. I'll keep an eye on it.
This is the smallest engine they use on this mower. The 12.5 hp model was just too much money for me. I think this unit will serve my purpose and should last for years.
I hope you find this video useful.
Didn't read all of the posts so I'm sorry if I'm repeating what someone else has said.
I've owned a 60" Swisher mower for 10 years and the term "trail mower" has been a constant source of confusion to a LOT of people since I've been looking at these mowers. Because of the shear magnitude of the confusion, I'm not quite sure why the manufacturers haven't changed the name/terminology.
When it comes to Swisher, their terminology "trailmower" is actually referring to the fact that the mower is designed to be pulled, making it a "trailing mower" or "trail mower" (in respect to the machine pulling it). It doesn't mean that the mower is a "trail mower" as in "designed to cut trails"....which is what comes to most people's mind when they hear "trail mower".
Swisher uses the terms "finish cut", and "rough cut" to refer to what the mowers are designed to do.....either cut a "finish" cut (as in mowing a yard), or "rough cut" for creating trails in the woods. I think most people that aren't familiar to this little "oddity" are left (as you were) thinking that a "trail mower" would be what they need to cut rough trails in the woods....which is absolutely not the case.
As I said, don't know why this source of confusion has been allowed to go on as long as it has.
Hope this helps to clear this up for someone.
Stan Wilhite
LOL, I was confused also until I read the posts here..they should call it "trailing" mower...and maybe call the rough cut the trail mower..
Or just simply call them a "pull behind mower" and then divide the categories into "finish cut" and "rough cut".
Good thing swisher doesn't make a hair brush. They would tell you it's for polishing your teeth.
Well put. Hope swisher is reading this
Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
I bought the 44" rough cut Swisher in 2001 and still using it. It came with a 10.5hp briggs that did a fantastic job, but since replaced it with an 18hp v-twin briggs. The rough cut has 'slinging' blades (like a brush-hog), rather than fixed blades like a finish mower. I found that, if I can get my four-wheeler over it (saplings, cedars, etc..), the mower will cut it (within reason). I consider it one of my 'great buys'!
Do you still have this ? I’d love to see some photos of the deck and stuff I got one in some disarray I’m tryin
To fix
@@jfire5118 No. I sold my 42 acres and no longer have the need.
Had a 60" finish cut for 14 yrs now and love it. I pull it (offset) behind a commercial zero turn for a total of a 120" cut. I mow about 8 acres, 4 yard and 4 pasture. I let the pasture get TALL before mowing, so the 21hp engine I replaced the worn out 13.5hp does a MUCH better job!Because it cuts my mowing time by about 40% for relatively little extra money, I consider it the best $ I've ever spent on yard eqp. !
Folks considering purchasing a Swisher trailing mower should be aware of a few things. We have had one, same model as shown in the video, for a few years now, pulling it behind a 600cc Yamaha Grizzley. Tried it with a 180cc first - don't do it - you should have at least 400-450cc or you will mess up your final drive or transmission. We use it on several acres of horse pasture and it does a decent job when it works. Both axles have failed at the welds over the last three years, but were easy to get re-welded.
These units have a great Briggs & Stratton engine, but the construction and engineering of the mower itself leaves a lot to be desired. As you watch the video, notice behind the cut off switch where the belt runs to the leftmost pulley that there are two bolts sticking up. These are to keep the belt from jumping the pulley when the tension is suddenly released. The innermost of these two bolts is in contact with the back of the belt the whole time you are mowing, with the exposed threads eating away at the belt. This is cheapo engineering, where some sort of pulley or flat metal bar should be and is the main reason Swisher uses a special Kevlar backed belt, which will still get eaten - just check the many complaints online.
Service - there pretty much isn't any in my neck of the woods. I recently needed to get this unit repaired and checked the Swisher site and they listed 3 outfits, two of which don't exist and the other hasn't repaired Swishers since they signed up to do so in 2005. When I brought this to Swisher's attention they updated their site and now there are no repair facilities listed within 100 miles of Bellingham, WA. A quick check online will also show that Swisher customer service is pretty much non-existent also. I repaired it myself, including changing out that bolt with the exposed threads that was eating belts.
I have had the same mower for a few yrs now , And had same issues , I just by passed my switch, and i leave the top covers off, tired of putting them on and off, I just clean after each mow and put away in the shed , Mine is a rough cut , and ive done some pretty rough cutting with it , 1" shrubs with ease ! and tall grass , no problem, It sits all winter and 1 or 2 pulls and away she goes , over all very happy, Have had to replace where tow arm to mower as maybe i was to rough, it bent up pretty good , i offset mow all the time , so my quad tires arn't making flat grass that getts missed by the blades ..good vid ...
I loved the one I had. Neighbor did too. he went and bought one after trying mine out. pulled it offset to the riding mower to double the cutting swath. Welded a hitch to mine so we could double up with 2 trail mowers behind the lawn tractor. measured cut was 120 inches! What I liked the best was the ability to do a counter clockwise zero turn around an object such as a tree. A second loop around the tree was required to get a missed strip between the two but both loops could be done at full speed. stopped using it when I got a commercial 72" zero turn with a much higher ground speed than the old rider.
I had to remove the 2 side plates. Whenever I stored it mice would somehow get in and make a home. I haven’t found any problem running without them. Great tip on the safety switch, I’m going to try that.
i love mine. i mowed 20ac in a day. went through 4 belts but the weeds were 2 to 4 ft tall. i towed it behind a 14hp craftsman mower. this lil thing is a beast.
Do you have to remove the engine to replace the belt?
I bought one of these about 20+ years ago. It was delivered in the same type crate, but that was long before Amazon, so I paid shipping. I think I used it for about 10 years before it died. I mow about 4 acres, so I towed it behind my lawn tractor with the Swisher offset. It cut my mowing time about in half, and did a good job.
Too bad you had the problem with the neutral switch, but it at least it was an easy fix once you figured it out. Still, you should never have had to fiddle with it.
I cut grass for a long time on golf course, athletic fields, parks and residential. I'm not sure why there's all this weird terminology, esp when ordering parts. Finish cut almost always means higher quality of cut. Trailmower can mean anything including trail behind. I think Tow Behind, then finish or rough cut for whichever mower it is.Twenty years ago when I was bidding on mowers, they actually did have categories. as Stan mentioned BTW, Good fix on the safety switch. It happens on the big stuff too. Our mowers had 3-5 safety switches, tough to troubleshoot sometimes... I hope this last comment helps: try using a blower to remove the grass clippings. I used to wash mine out but, the deck would finally rust out. When I started using the blower or compressed air, they didn't rust near as quickly. I noticed your pulley was already rusting (but, sometimes they're rusty right out of the factory). Everybodys' situations are different. I don't know if you can apply what I said, but, I hope I helped you or someone seeing this comment.
If you got the same model (T11544 finish cut) it should work fine. I did a little math and at 2 mph it should take 1.4 hours to mow 2.5 acres, not including gas and beer stops. 2.5 acres = 108900 sq. ft. You cover 38702.4 sq. ft. per mile per hour. If you hit it at 3 mph you'll be done in less than an hour, minus any stops. Enjoy.
I have one of these mowers... Works very well... I have had mine for over 15 years. I've put mine through it all. Even heavy brush. Takes multiple passes . Just go slower..
Thanks Nogga, very helpful. I just bought one for our farm and have mowed twice. Great info here, much appreciated.
They say not to spray water on hot bearings n parts, blow leaf blower or compressed air
I had the same problem with the neutral switch. Mine was made in 2011, so I'm surprised they still let that defect ride thru to your model year.
My brother and I used that same mower for two years on our family farm. The offset hitch is junk and it broke more times than you could count. Burned up afew belts also. Not intended to use for tall grass like in the video. We bought a small brush hog after the Swisher became a total piece of junk. Just like you said early in video it is a finish mower meant to cut your lawn.
Good info - I use mine hard around my farm and it's been a great mower behind my ATV. I noticed Ethanol gas will eat through the gas line if it is not prepped before storing.
Yes!! I agree with the comment below, FCLC Mankato . . . this is an awesome video, and very helpful too!! Quick and to-the-point! Thank you very much!
A suggestion for anyone who constantly has the belt come off the pulley when engaging, slow the engine down then carefully and slowly put the lever in the on position.
I got one of them and for the life of me I can't figure out why they still use a manual belt tensioner! Nothing but trouble! All they have to do is remove the engine pulley and install an electric clutch like all new equipment has done. I burned up so many belts I put in under my tractor shed and never used it again. I'm old and can't change it anymore. Luckily a friend asked if he could try it and it caught on fire and burned completely up along with four acres of his horse pasture! I would like to get one with a remote control box, electric start and a ELECTRIC CLUTCH THAT CAN BE TURNED ON AND OFF WITH THE REMOTE CONTROL BOX THAT CAN BE MOUNTED ON THE TRACTOR! but until they make some changes I'm not gonna be getting another one!
I have a 44" Swisher but the one i have it has the Key and the blade disengage is up on the trailer tongue the mower deck looks the same the key start an to turn blades on only diff, I use mine behind my lawnmower and off set the swisher make about 7 ft cut.
Do you still have this ? I’d love to see some photos of the deck and stuff I got one in some disarray I’m tryin
To fix
I have had one for about ten years. Engine went on me, I replaced that. Just about every component has worn out or broke on me. I have welding and cutting equipment...THANK GOD!!!
Trail means it follows behind the tractor or it must be towed.
First "trail" in Swisher's definition means it trails your lawn mower or ATV. It's not a bush hog and it is designed for finish cut, not blaze new trails. The engage handle loosens up and misaligns with the neutral switch. I keep my covers off, and disengage the neutral start switch and live with the risk.
Excellent review and hopefully they’ll make some changes. This really isn’t for trails it’s a finish mower.
I have an older model and cannot find blades. It has a 44 inch deck and I lost the model and serial years ago. It has been a great mower, came standard with 8hp which is adequate, but should have been larger with electric start, I changed it over. Back to the blade problem. The blades are 22" long with a "D" center hole that isn't very good, I have had problems with blades. The other drawback is its' rear discharge shield drops down too far and I have modified that. I also changed mine to a trailer hitch ball setup instead of a pin and hole setup.
+Ray Mason Have you checked out the Oregon 91-732 Swisher Replacement Lawn Mower Blade 20-1/2-Inch, they have the "D" in the center. I know you said yours are 22".. Amazon and ebay both sell the 91-732 blades.
I ended up removing the discharge shield on mine so I could raise the deck higher.
I believe there is an "early model and a later model. If you are having difficulty finding blades, change the spindles to the later style that accepts the current style blades.
Good video, thanks for the tip on the switch.
have you look into altering the attachment point to allow it to mow in the offset to cut ditches?
I believe that's the model they use to trim Rosie o Donnells back hair.
bobby harvill that’s funny Trump 2020
I have one of those ( Swisher Trail King 44 ) bought it to mow my 4 acre yard and using a riding mower to pull the unit, it has been nothing but a major headache since I got it. First it was a blade pulley tower bearing that went out causing it to destroy the entire pulley tower, then after replacing that, it started "eating" the drive belt faster than it took to replace it, and at 34 bucks per each belt, at the rate it was breaking the belts it would have cost me more for belts just for one summers use than I paid for the entire mower. The problem with the belt is due to the excessive back bend placed on the belt at the tensioner pulley by the way the belt was configured, causing it to crack the inside diameter of the belt and the constant bending around each pulley would cause the belt to start peeling until a piece of it would break out about 6 to 7 inches long leaving just the outer most portion of the belt to carry the load UNTIL you hit an area of tough grass then the engine would overpower the belt and cause it to pull completely apart. The last and final problem was the engine, a junky B/S 10 horse counter balanced engine, the first problem with it was the recoil rope pulley, it collapsed when attempting to start the engine, replaced it with a metal type pulley from an older riding mower I had, then what ended the life of this poorly designed piece of equipment was the internal counter balance weight that is connected to the crankshaft by a very flimsy connecting rod broke at idle speed and punched a huge hole through the block and also destroyed the camshaft and bottom oil pan of the engine. This unit was less than a month old and when used everything was checked, oil, gasoline before even starting it, so I know it was not due to any negligence on my part. It was solely due to poor design of the unit and also on B/S for coming up with such shoddy design of a connecting rod for counterbalance weight that weighed approx. 6 pounds and had a connecting rod for it that was less than 1/2 width and 5/16" thick at the crankshaft. That particular item could have been eliminated completely at assembly as the engine is mounted on a unit that the operator is not having to hold onto and absorbing what vibrations (if any) that would be associated with it running regardless of engine speed. I hope you don't encounter problems as I have with mine, it now sits in the barn waiting to be scrapped!!! After that headache, I bought a Dixie Chopper Classic 3360, 33 horse power with a 60 inch cut and it will cut anything that gets in front of it.
By the way I am in Ky too, northern portion half way between Louisville Ky. and Cincinnati Ohio
Have you checked out the Model #RTB12544 Swisher 44" trail cutter. I have this one and it knocks down some thick stuff!! Great unit but I'm now replacing the blade/shaft assy. But it is very reasonably priced. $124.00. Nice video and thanks for sharing...EE
I like it now that I've done a little modification to it. It's a lot easier to hook this up to mow along the driveway than hooking up a 10 foot bush hog for 10 minutes of work.
PS. A little word of unsolicited advice (and we all know how plentiful that is!) :-).
I'd be really careful in swapping positions (from using directly behind, to offset on either side). Reason being, it's very easy to forget where the Swisher is in respect to whatever you're pulling it with....and it doesn't take much of an imagination to realize what kind of damage that could do! A nice 100K car would look a little unusual with half of a Swisher mower hanging out of the grill! :-)
Enjoy your mower, I just swapped the original 13.5 hp B/S (with 1000 trouble free hrs on it) for a new 21 hp B/S and man....what a difference!
Stan in N AL
'Made in the USA' meant something different, back in the 50s.
#CutFromDifferentCloth
it looks like they drilled the holes in the wrong posisition?
You like to "hose down " your equipment after use? No ! The equipment will rust fast doing that! Always blow it off with compressed air (or at least a leaf blower) , it will last longer and the paint won't rust away.
Use a leaf blower to clean out the grass
I bet the four wheeler is a lot more comfortable than a riding mower
Quality control needs a kick in the nuts!!!
Thanks for the share with the repair
i have 13 achers and i broke my back a few years ago i have a quade i like the d&r is it dosent through shit evrey whare
Awesome vid, thank you cuz im debating on buying one.
I am thinking about buying a similar mower. Can this mower handle mustard/nettle weeds ? need to maintain pastures to stay free of weeds ? Is is still working to your satisfaction ? any recommendation of further increasing the blade height?
Had mine 5 years, burned up a couple belts trying to mow too fast in thick wet mustard weed, don't wait until they get 3 foot tall and keep the blade edge sharp every 8-10 hours of mow time, hose it out underneath before it dries out, and you will love it. I do about 2 acres behind a cub cadet, offset mode, get about a 6 ft swath each pass.Gets under barbwire fences about 6 inches too. Belt is easy to change, about 10 minutes.
John U Hi John, how do you change the belt, I cant figure it out , do you need to take off the bolts on the engine as well?
Thank you
Nice job. Thanks for sharing.
I have a swisher 60" trail mower. I hate it! Been nothing but problems this yr. Mowing around trees is horrible , under fences etc... Im looking into a 60" zero turn now. This trail mower is going to drive me crazy
mine starts but when i go to engage the blades it wont engage them.
Belt loose probably
super helpful. thanks.
Could you replace the finishing blades with straight bush hog-like blades?
Swisher pumping them out to fast and no testing of the equipment? Simple fix to starting but, it could be fixed on their end so easy. The grass getting in where the belts are, that’s an issue.
its great, but looks like it is not high up enough to clear large rocks.
Thanks
Thanks for an excellent video
What are pulling it with a 4 wheeler? I wonder if an 18hp Murry type lawn tractor would pull it OK???
Oilsmoke Jones Sure would!! Use the mid mount mower under the tractor, and angle this all the way to an offset position. That way you can now in half the time!
Still have this mower? I have some questions about it I just bought one that’s in some disarray
Hi Jordan, Yes I still have this mower. I mainly use it now for trimming around trees and my zero turn for all the rest. What's your question?
@@noggafarm well I was hoping to see how you’re pulley system and it’s relative components look like on a complete machine . Could you sometime when you get time take the covers off and send me some photos of them?
@@jfire5118 Sure. Not sure how I can send you pictures though. Contact me at noggafarm@yahoo.com so I email them to you.
@@noggafarm you got it pal
does this mower mow good enough to mow your whole yard? I have a 2.5 acre yard and I just bought one today but it wont arrive for about a week
That's the bad? Seems like an easy fix. Not too bad if that was the only bad.
LOL, ya gotta remember a lotta folks don't know the difference between a pipe wrench and a pipe...
Oilsmoke Jones I knew a plumber that had both, one to work with the other to smoke 😂
I had the same problem with that switch when I bought mine in 2006. When I figured it out I just tied a zip tie to keep the switch closed full time, zip tie still on there today.
Does anyone know what belt is used/needed for the style mower??
I used a Gates Truflex v-belt, #2730, 73" x 1/2". Check the length you need.
noggafarm They are called fractional belts assuming the width of the belt. They are not like the v belts you see in cars much more HD
Thanks for the video
Do they call it a "trail" mower because it trails behind an ATV rather than a mower for trails?
They call it that because it trails behind what you are pulling it with.
+RGO Impact Right. If you want to cut trails, buy the rough cut model.
Good Vid, Thanks!
Didn't see that...anyway how do u like it
My belt has snapped, after about 10 mows. Have a new one here. Has anyone ever done this repair? The engine will have to come off.
The engine DOESN'T have to come completely off, just remove the bolts that holds the mounting plate for the engine and will give you easier access to put the belt around the engine pulley. BUT there is one point that you have to remove the tensioner spring on the engage pulley as the belt is routed UNDER that spring, That is IF Swisher hasn't changed the design, there should be a belt routing diagram under one of the blade pulley covers so look very carefully as to how the belt is configured around those pulleys. See my other post on this video about the belts breaking and WILL break several times during a season's use.
Yeah I was able to do it without taking engine off. Now after a couple mows it won't start. Changed air filter and spark plug. Had to mow my 3 acres with a push mower : (
The first place I would check is the kill switch to see if the 2 wire connectors are touching each other if so spread them apart or tape each one. if not that remove spark plug and then snap the plug wire on the plug and lay the spark plug against any bare metal portion of engine, so that you can observe to see if a spark will jump across the adjusting tang of plug and center electrode of plug, then crank engine and observe for the spark, if you do have spark, replace the spark plug. the problem will be in the fuel system, check to make sure if fuel shut off is open if it has one, if not tap on the side of carbureter to jar the float inside so that it will drop to allow fuel to enter carbureter. if that doesn't allow it to start try spraying a bit of starting fluid in the carbureter while cranking, if the engine is putting out any spark at all it will then start, the carbureter will have to be removed and cleaned and then reinstalled
The only other thing that could be the problem, unlikely as it is, could possibly be in the valves, one may be stuck slightly open causing the engine to not have enough vacuum to suck in the air/fuel mixture, hope this info helps in solving the problem
Nortekj Thanks for the reply. I was just about to check for spark, then decided to watch this video again, hadn't since last summer. And my problem was just as described in the video, my neutral switch was not getting activated. I just took a hammer and bend the red bracket up, now it engages fine. Running great.
Looks like that belt pulley is already starting to rust because of bad galvanizing. Goes to show just because it has Made In USA on it doesn’t mean it’s going to be great quality. That steel was probably made in India or Pakistan. They should start putting Assembled in USA on there.
Use air not water to wash !
Trail... as in, trail behind the 4x4
Not trail cutter lol
Definitely needs guards removed somewhat regularly for cleaning
its called a trail mower not because it mows trails, it trails behind whatever is pulling it.
Makes sense but should be trailing mower then...the rough cut is a real trail mower of almost brush hog magnitude..
Swisher has a "Trail mower" and a "Finishing cut mower." Both are tow behind.
nice vid
Made in China crap. Should have bought a good old Made in USA product. Our family has a Swisher from 85 years ago and still works like a charm.
Trail means it trails behind not trail mower
Its called a trail mower because it trails behind u
These are a nightmare! Absolute crap. Never again.