Thanks so much for making your videos. You are extremely knowledgeable about Japanese terms etc. As a novice carver, it is so valuable the information you share. If you know of any deer farms in your area, you can probably get antler for free. A video on how you make and shape your tools, steel types etc would be so welcomed. I have a few, based on bone carving gravers, but would really appreciate finding out how to create smaller tools.
That is very kind. I am not as knowledgeable as some people give me credit for, but I appreciate the compliment. The antler farm I sourced that chital from is about 2 hours and 15 minutes from my house. That is not too bad in terms of distances between places in Australia. I don’t think they would be keen on giving it to me for free. It is still cheaper than buying it through a third party and the gentleman that runs the farm is very knowledgeable. You have probably already watched it, but I did a video on my tools recently. I very briefly covered how I make tools. I also provide some sources in the description that will help a little: ua-cam.com/video/TGB3Q1THio4/v-deo.html&ab_channel=NetsukebyScottA.Aschauer There is a very good ivory carving manual I have been slowly reading. It is in Japanese and was published in 1900. There are some diagrams of tools there. I will eventually start to replicate these tools. When I do that, I will try to film a video of me making them. I am currently working on a video tutorial for a boxwood netsuke, so that is taking up some of my time. I will post some videos of me carving an antler netsuke, not as a tutorial though.
here is my take on antler, having worked many years with this material (and you have touched on most of this), and selling it as well - moose: the stem part, near the skull and the rosette, is extremely dense and very carvable. Some of the thicker areas on the flat shovel parts are very dense as well. Any species' antler near the crown (rosette) is very dense. The tips of any antler is hard and tough...the shed antlers are the best since they endured stressful treatment, clashing, rubbing and banging against trees and other antlers. You cannot use antler that is growing after the old one is shed, since it is soft and covered with a bloody felt-like skin. During those times a deer cannot be hunted anyway. On mature antler the spongy, fibrous part is the main area between the rosette and the tips, but I have seen netsuke made of these parts, being hollowed out and used as a flat piece, or inlaid. The spongy part is hard to carve and deteriorates in time, as it is fragile and easily damaged. It can be incorporated, but I would not advise it. Best antler comes from moose, American elk and European red deer. I use Renaissance Wax for the final treatment. Don't forget to use a mask and a vacuum system if you use an electric hand piece - antler dust is toxic and clogs up lung tissue, and the dust lands on anything in the room.
Thank you so much for sharing your perspective, it is great to hear from someone who has a lot of experience with antler. I will give moose and elk a try. I have heard so many contradictory accounts of those species and how they perform for netsuke carving. I have used renaissance wax in the past but I don't anymore after using ibotaro. I find it is more suitable to netsuke but that is just my opinion. Everything I do is with hand tools only but I always wear a mask when working on all materials. I vacuum my workshop several times a session especially after sawing and sanding.
I have not tried it and I haven't been able to see photos of the cross section so I am not the best person to ask. I hear so many contradictory accounts of certain deer species and their suitability for carving. I don't have it recorded on any of my notes from some of the old carving forums. It is something you will need to try for yourself. Your tools will be the best judge. Best of luck!
It depends on exactly which wax you mean. Wood wax can mean many different things. If you don't have access to ibotaro, the next best thing is renaissance wax: www.japanesetools.com.au/products/renaissance-wax-65ml Best of luck!
Thanks so much for making your videos. You are extremely knowledgeable about Japanese terms etc. As a novice carver, it is so valuable the information you share.
If you know of any deer farms in your area, you can probably get antler for free.
A video on how you make and shape your tools, steel types etc would be so welcomed. I have a few, based on bone carving gravers, but would really appreciate finding out how to create smaller tools.
That is very kind. I am not as knowledgeable as some people give me credit for, but I appreciate the compliment. The antler farm I sourced that chital from is about 2 hours and 15 minutes from my house. That is not too bad in terms of distances between places in Australia. I don’t think they would be keen on giving it to me for free. It is still cheaper than buying it through a third party and the gentleman that runs the farm is very knowledgeable.
You have probably already watched it, but I did a video on my tools recently. I very briefly covered how I make tools. I also provide some sources in the description that will help a little: ua-cam.com/video/TGB3Q1THio4/v-deo.html&ab_channel=NetsukebyScottA.Aschauer
There is a very good ivory carving manual I have been slowly reading. It is in Japanese and was published in 1900. There are some diagrams of tools there. I will eventually start to replicate these tools. When I do that, I will try to film a video of me making them. I am currently working on a video tutorial for a boxwood netsuke, so that is taking up some of my time. I will post some videos of me carving an antler netsuke, not as a tutorial though.
Wonderful video! thank you!!
🙏
Thank you!
here is my take on antler, having worked many years with this material (and you have touched on most of this), and selling it as well - moose: the stem part, near the skull and the rosette, is extremely dense and very carvable. Some of the thicker areas on the flat shovel parts are very dense as well. Any species' antler near the crown (rosette) is very dense. The tips of any antler is hard and tough...the shed antlers are the best since they endured stressful treatment, clashing, rubbing and banging against trees and other antlers. You cannot use antler that is growing after the old one is shed, since it is soft and covered with a bloody felt-like skin. During those times a deer cannot be hunted anyway. On mature antler the spongy, fibrous part is the main area between the rosette and the tips, but I have seen netsuke made of these parts, being hollowed out and used as a flat piece, or inlaid. The spongy part is hard to carve and deteriorates in time, as it is fragile and easily damaged. It can be incorporated, but I would not advise it. Best antler comes from moose, American elk and European red deer. I use Renaissance Wax for the final treatment. Don't forget to use a mask and a vacuum system if you use an electric hand piece - antler dust is toxic and clogs up lung tissue, and the dust lands on anything in the room.
Thank you so much for sharing your perspective, it is great to hear from someone who has a lot of experience with antler. I will give moose and elk a try. I have heard so many contradictory accounts of those species and how they perform for netsuke carving. I have used renaissance wax in the past but I don't anymore after using ibotaro. I find it is more suitable to netsuke but that is just my opinion. Everything I do is with hand tools only but I always wear a mask when working on all materials. I vacuum my workshop several times a session especially after sawing and sanding.
What do you think about white tail deer antler?
I have not tried it and I haven't been able to see photos of the cross section so I am not the best person to ask. I hear so many contradictory accounts of certain deer species and their suitability for carving. I don't have it recorded on any of my notes from some of the old carving forums. It is something you will need to try for yourself. Your tools will be the best judge. Best of luck!
Can be polished with wood wax?! Thank you!
It depends on exactly which wax you mean. Wood wax can mean many different things. If you don't have access to ibotaro, the next best thing is renaissance wax: www.japanesetools.com.au/products/renaissance-wax-65ml
Best of luck!
Im a boxwood guy at the moment. But interesting nevertheless
Never fear, I will still cover boxwood 😄