Unpotting and dividing Venus flytraps
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- Опубліковано 19 лис 2020
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Matt shows the process of uprooting and dividing one of his "mother pot" of FTS Crimson Sawtooths.
I requested it !!! thanks,thanks, ill watch it after work..
Thank you for requesting it!
You're videos are so helpful and so entertaining to watch because you guys are so cool and light.
Keep on posting videos idol.
From Philippines with love ♥
Dream to have your cultivars here in my simple rack of carnivorous plants
Thank you for your kind feedback! We hope to keep posting videos at least once a week :)
Thanks for the video you 2! The roots tangling in the LFSM is why I don't use it. I tried it on a few of mine for the last 2 years and didn't like having to baby the LFSM away from the roots so as not to break any. I like peat/perlite because as you saw in this video it just falls away from the roots very easily. I also did not notice any difference in bulb, root or plant growth between the 2 mixes.
Yeah, long-fiber sphagnum moss (LFSM) certainly has a disadvantage or two but I've tested several times here in our environment and the plants simply grow much faster in it than they do in any peat I've tried thus far. I got a new source of peat just last week and am hoping to have better results with it than the stuff I've been using. We shall see! But that New Zealand LFSM is just so clean and fresh that there's really nothing that can compare to it in terms of giving the plants an ideal environment to grow. Did you test with the Besgrow New Zealand LFSM or something else?
@@FlytrapStore I use Besgrow. The plants grew O.K. in it, no different than regular CP mix. I like that it's cleaner to work with but getting it off the roots makes me nervous because you have to be so careful not to break roots.
@@Tommyr that is interesting that the plants grew the same for you. For us, the difference is growth rate in the Besgrow NZLFS is probably 50% faster growth and far less disease than when growing in standard CP peat mix. I've tried with Sarracenia too and they also grow much faster and to a larger size more quickly in the NZLFS. Perhaps it is a climate thing. Our growing season here in southern Oregon is quite short, at only 177 days per year on average, so any advantage they can get seems to help immensely. Where do you live?
@@FlytrapStore In the Northeast U.S. Mine are fridge dormancy. They go in the fridge in mid to late October. I start taking them out the first of February and re-pot those that need it then place under florescent lights to wake up until around mid April. Then when the weather permits I start acclimating them to outdoor Sun. So 6-7 months of growing for my plants.
@@Tommyr I would guess that the summer weather where you live is far more suitable for growing Venus flytraps than it is here in Oregon where the summers are short but exceptionally hot (typically over 100F in the day) and dry (relative humidity around 20%-25%). Also, our nights are always cool. Even when days reach 100F, night-time lows are in the 50s, which dramatically slows down growth.
I am guessing the days in the Northeast U.S. are far less hot, the humidity is much higher, and the nights are nowhere near as cool in the summer as here in southern Oregon. Perhaps these growing conditions make it so that the quality of the media is less important in your area. I can't say for sure, but I've done the experiment enough times here to say without a doubt that the plants grow faster and bigger in the NZLFSM than they do in peat-based mixes.
Thank you for making videos.
Thanks for uploading! I would love a video on repotting as well
Here's a video where Leah shows how to pot Venus flytraps in long-fiber sphagnum:
ua-cam.com/video/rpX_BaxPDKw/v-deo.html&ab_channel=FlyTrapStore
Awesome, thanks so much!
is it better to divide the sand and perlite mix from the sphagnum moss instead of mixing them all together?
We typically use either mix exclusively and don't mix them. However, we do occasionally use long fiber sphagnum (LFS) in the bottom of very large pots to hold moisture. Some growers wrap the rhizomes in LFS and then fill the rest of the pot with sphagnum to save $$. They do grow a bit better in the LFS than in peat moss, but in a good climate with good care, the difference is negligible but the cost to use LFS is significantly more than peat.
Can i ask what kind of sand do u use for the bottom of the pot sir? Thank you
I did this today and it did not go well. The rhizomes were beige-brown and squishy, almost the consistency of uncooked chicken breast. Does that mean it is dead?
We are in the Carolinas (where they are native) and in zone 7b/8a. However, right around Christmas we had a cold snap where the temperature did not climb out of freezing and got as low as 9 F. Maybe it was too cold.
Now I am worried my pitcher plants may have the same problem. The flytrap was completely blackened on top. My pitchers are in various stages of dry brown to reddish purple.
If there is no white at all left on the rhizome of a flytrap and it is brown and mushy then it is dead.
However, rhizomes can be beige-ish in coloration at times. As long as it is firm, it is still alive.
I live in Phoenix Az. We don’t get cold winters and it’s mostly always sunny. Will my plant go dormant by themselves or should I do something? Also what if they don’t go dormant?
Yes, even in AZ flytraps will go dormant so now worries there. I lived in Arizona for about 8 years and know all about the sun and heat! Just give them good sunlight and try to keep them cool during the hottest months and your flytraps should do well!
Интересно. Спасибо.
You're very welcome!
How do you water your vfts? Is it okay to sprinkle water on top? Like in the traps itself?
Yes, I always water my plants in the large pots from the top. I wait until the top of the moss is just barely damp, nearly drying out, then water thoroughly until water flows out the bottom of the pot. Wait until it nearly dries again before watering again.
Sometimes the traps will close when they get watered, but it doesn't hurt anything.
👍🏼
So when the plants are dormant is the best time to repot?
Yea
How do you feed them?
I don't feed them or fertilize them. They catch their own food! The ones incapable of capturing insects grow more slowly but they still grow.
I am planning to start feeding the ones incapable of hunting but we are super busy and it is low priority.
CAn i divide now. jun, july ?
Yes, flytraps can be divided any time of the year. It's best to do it in late winter or early spring and worst to do it in late summer or early fall, but flytraps are quite resilient and usually recover quite quickly. Anytime before September is a decent time of year to repot.