I'm a big Jessem fan. Top notch engineering and features. My biggest reason for buying the Jessem Table, Lift, and Fence along with an Incra Cleansweep Enclosure was dust collection. I wanted to use the router in my basement shop. My setup with a big dust collector running to both the fence and the Cleansweep results in nearly perfect dust and chip collection - seriously good. I did purchase a dedicated motor to go with the table. The Jessem Lift doesn't use the router base, only the motor so it's not easy to remove from the Lift. I do have a second router with Bases that I use outdoors for jobs that don't work well on the Table like round-overs on a large finished piece. Next to my Table Saw, the Router Table & Lift has become one of my favorite tools.
With my serious back problems, the Jessem Master Liftll was just the ticket for my shop. It is well worth having it! I paired it with the Milwaukee 3 1/2 hp router. What a beast! One revolution on the dial moves the bit 1/16”. With all the increments on the dial, one increment of movement is 1/512. You could split the increment and have a 1/1024. When dialing in for stile and rail joinery you can really tweak them in! I love my set up!
Generally speaking, turning up sober & being able to stand up right while producing a video ..... well its appreciated. Your hair style is totally your own choice. Such fun !
I've had dedicated router lifts, routers in tables, home made lifts, and router conversions. I'm back to the simple router in a table lift using a Rockler plate on my PC890 base with an above plate spin handle that gives me the quick change and fine adjust ability I need.
Since you asked…my opinion is that you made the right choice for you (buying a lift), based on your production. My production only calls for 20% router work, generally accomplished with jigs (& a palm router), so no need for even a router table. When I do need a table, a good plate & router combination is sufficient. As you demonstrated, the MKE router is easily adjusted from underneath, so - for my needs - the cost of a lift is better spent elsewhere. Thanks for putting this video together and demonstrating that a lift might not be necessary for everyone, so long as the plate pairs well with the design of the router.
Ron, I really liked your video. I have an Incra router lift and love it. You are right in suggesting lifts to viewers. I devoted a router to the table. For my hand stuff, I have a separate router. It's just easier (not cheaper) that way for me.
I personally like routers that have a built in lift like the Triton routers or the Trend T11 and T14. The Trend T14 is especially good as it can be clipped in to the router table and used with an external switch that comes with it and then it can unclip and be used handheld for things like worktops. I used to use a router with a car jack underneath to raise and lower it but with the Paulk smart router table that wouldn't work. Do you NEED a lift? No. Should you have one? Yes
Tried several commercial lifts but didn't like them. Kept going back to my HF 2.75 hp plunge router on a solid Rockler router plate after removing the return spring in the router. That thing was a beast and would cut through just about anything. Yeah, I had to remove it from the table to change bits, but it was fast and cheap. Sold it when I moved 10 years ago to a new location. Now I have a PC890 with a fixed base in a table, with the PC adjustment wheel. Loosen the lock on the router, and spin the wheel. Great value and low cost. Even have a special thin plate I use with my palm routers I got from China if I need a second setup. That's on a piece of 3/4" plywood that I fix to my MFT/3 table when needed. For my plunge routers, I keep them on adapter plates so I can use them with my LR32 router sled. Lots of hole drilling, and grove cutting. Works real good, lasts a long time.
I say yes... but, with all of the linear guide systems these days, there become very easy to make for $50-$70. All the pre-made ones, like you said, have shortcomings. They have cool aspects, but exposed chains and sprockets required so much maintenance. One thing I dont like is the top/plate adjustment system. I use enclosed bevel gears that give me a handle coming out the front and makes it a 90° system. And with the polymer linear slides now, you don't need to worry about dust clogging an older style ball bearing linear block. All in all, I think I like making tools/jigs more than anything else. Lol. And I use my routers for nearly everything so jigs are vital for me.
My router table did not have a lift. Every time I needed to adjust the bit height I would loosen the lock then raise or lower the bit and lock again. This all worked just fine until on day I did not have the motor locked down tight enough and it can flying off with a spinning bit. It wrecked everything. So yes, a lift is necessary.
Mine also does not have a lift because it's the cheapest table you can get. However, there is a height adjustment apparatus built into the clamp that holds the router to the underside of the table. On mine you loosen the caller by pulling it open and then turn the knob to get the height adjustment you want. Then close the collar by pushing it in. I've never had a problem with it.
Hi Ron, I’ve noticed that you don’t seem to utilize your woodpecker super fence anymore? I really enjoy the micro adjustment on the horizontal access with the super fence as well as the vertical micro adjustment using your router lift. Was just curious as to why you didn’t incorporate that in your design?
The Woodpecker fence is the best. I stopped using is much due to its size and weight. Since portability is my #1 need, I will sacrifice in other areas sometimes.
I like your math at the 14:48 mark. I'll have to see if my wife will buy that logic! Honey, Every accessory I buy makes my router lift less expensive! I'll have to remember that one. Nice video topic.
I’ve had shapers in the past, always two. I even wired my new shop up with two 240 volt drops. Ended up with two lifts. I guess I am still on the fence a little. So far so good though. I do have another like 10 routers so that I don’t have to change the bits which is a plus.
You never addressed the title of the video--"Is a Router Lift Really Necessary?" Very disjointed presentation, you skipped around but mostly it seemed you were selling your router table. Please develop some notes to guide your presentation, be better organized about what you will say. That said, I appreciate your efforts in making the videos and I usually get some great tidbits of info them. Thanks for taking the time to help other woodworkers.
Not sure i could justify the lift but i am really attracted to the lift out arrangement. Opening the door of my cabinet and trying to make adjustments or change bits in there is inconvenient. The cabinet does have a vacuum attachment but it doesn't seem to be that effective. Are you using any kind of vacuum while routing or just cleaning up after?
I have a vac on the fence, but it only works when the bit is partially inside the fence. I designed my router tables to cantilever over the floor so dust mostly falls to the floor and is easy to sweep and vac. When I had my cabinet shop, I had closed in router/shaper tools and they were a pain to keep clean even though I had a large collection system. Dust is a fact of life in woodworking. I do collect as much as I can when the tools are running, but 50% still ends up on the floor.
Not a pro by any means. I've found that most of my needs are met without even a plate, but just by bolting my router base underneath my work surface (a Bora Centipede MDF top with dog holes, a ghetto version of your benchtops). I clamp an aluminum fence as needed and adjust the bit as you do, and I get an enormous router table -- the whole bench. I do have to attach the fixed base under the table, but that's a one-time, three-screw process when I set up for a project. My router came with a fixed and plunge base -- I use the latter for hand-held stuff.
Greetings Ron, Watching all your 1000 + Videos. Latest to Earliest. Great to see the progression of your designs. Note that your store link to Amazon is out of date. Amazon "Only 1 left in stock - order soon." I called Woodpecker and the Amazon model is discontinued. Thought you would want to know. Do you have time to suggest another Lift? Thanks :)
Great video. For a weekend warrior like me, your setup without the lift is just the ticket. I’m much less concerned about the efficiency than someone like you or a production shop
Ron, thanks for this explanation. I've already purchased the plans for this and use your compact bench. I am curious, I have seen other videos and it seems people go through great lengths to ensure the flatness of the router table. Most other videos I have seen have tables thicker than 18mm. Have you ever had trouble with sagging or flex over time with your tables?
You can always make a table yourself with a single piece of ply, and drill the router upside down. They all have integrated heigh adjustment, it's just a bit annoying from underneath.
Why in the world would the lift (a few machine screws and equally few pieces of steel) cost more than the router itself (motor, electronics, wires, housing, switches, and more)?! This is insane. These things should be no more than $50.
Here is your opportunity. If you can develop a router lift that rivals the quality and precision of Woodpeckers', priced at just $50, you'll likely struggle to meet the overwhelming demand. Once you've created it, please send one my way. I'll thoroughly test and review it, and I'm more than willing to pay the $50 cost as long as you include shipping fees. P.S. The box and packing will cost you $22 and shipping will be another $35. You will be in the hole by $7 before design, materials, manufacturing, business insurance, and advertising, but you can make it up in volume.
@@TheSmartWoodshop Our business has packaging and shipping MUCH less than that, but we don’t have a CNC mill nor the funding. I’m not questioning the quality of the product, but I could buy 2 more routers for that price. I do think you’re correct, whether sarcastic or not, there’s a great opportunity for someone to capitalize on the opportunity…even at domestic labor prices. I didn’t see any testing on runout, but many modern advances in technology have made precision much more affordable.
The Milwaukee has a built in lift as well. I use one Milwaukee motor with the Woodpecker lift as my main and precision set up. The second Milwaukee I use with the built in lift.
The woodpeckers router lift is $493.99, the router plate is $141.99. Don't really know what you mean with "normal bread eater" given that he said what he paid for them.
I'm a big Jessem fan. Top notch engineering and features. My biggest reason for buying the Jessem Table, Lift, and Fence along with an Incra Cleansweep Enclosure was dust collection. I wanted to use the router in my basement shop. My setup with a big dust collector running to both the fence and the Cleansweep results in nearly perfect dust and chip collection - seriously good. I did purchase a dedicated motor to go with the table. The Jessem Lift doesn't use the router base, only the motor so it's not easy to remove from the Lift. I do have a second router with Bases that I use outdoors for jobs that don't work well on the Table like round-overs on a large finished piece. Next to my Table Saw, the Router Table & Lift has become one of my favorite tools.
With my serious back problems, the Jessem Master Liftll was just the ticket for my shop. It is well worth having it! I paired it with the Milwaukee 3 1/2 hp router. What a beast! One revolution on the dial moves the bit 1/16”. With all the increments on the dial, one increment of movement is 1/512. You could split the increment and have a 1/1024. When dialing in for stile and rail joinery you can really tweak them in! I love my set up!
The micro-adjust feature for the Jessem Fence is really sweet as well.
Good to know!
Generally speaking, turning up sober & being able to stand up right while producing a video ..... well its appreciated. Your hair style is totally your own choice. Such fun !
I've had dedicated router lifts, routers in tables, home made lifts, and router conversions. I'm back to the simple router in a table lift using a Rockler plate on my PC890 base with an above plate spin handle that gives me the quick change and fine adjust ability I need.
Since you asked…my opinion is that you made the right choice for you (buying a lift), based on your production. My production only calls for 20% router work, generally accomplished with jigs (& a palm router), so no need for even a router table. When I do need a table, a good plate & router combination is sufficient. As you demonstrated, the MKE router is easily adjusted from underneath, so - for my needs - the cost of a lift is better spent elsewhere. Thanks for putting this video together and demonstrating that a lift might not be necessary for everyone, so long as the plate pairs well with the design of the router.
😎
I’ve been weighing which to buy recently. Thank you for the thorough explanation! Can’t wait to add one to the bench
Hope you enjoy it!
Ron, I really liked your video. I have an Incra router lift and love it. You are right in suggesting lifts to viewers.
I devoted a router to the table. For my hand stuff, I have a separate router. It's just easier (not cheaper) that way for me.
I personally like routers that have a built in lift like the Triton routers or the Trend T11 and T14. The Trend T14 is especially good as it can be clipped in to the router table and used with an external switch that comes with it and then it can unclip and be used handheld for things like worktops.
I used to use a router with a car jack underneath to raise and lower it but with the Paulk smart router table that wouldn't work.
Do you NEED a lift? No.
Should you have one? Yes
Tried several commercial lifts but didn't like them. Kept going back to my HF 2.75 hp plunge router on a solid Rockler router plate after removing the return spring in the router. That thing was a beast and would cut through just about anything. Yeah, I had to remove it from the table to change bits, but it was fast and cheap. Sold it when I moved 10 years ago to a new location.
Now I have a PC890 with a fixed base in a table, with the PC adjustment wheel. Loosen the lock on the router, and spin the wheel. Great value and low cost. Even have a special thin plate I use with my palm routers I got from China if I need a second setup. That's on a piece of 3/4" plywood that I fix to my MFT/3 table when needed. For my plunge routers, I keep them on adapter plates so I can use them with my LR32 router sled. Lots of hole drilling, and grove cutting. Works real good, lasts a long time.
I say yes... but, with all of the linear guide systems these days, there become very easy to make for $50-$70.
All the pre-made ones, like you said, have shortcomings. They have cool aspects, but exposed chains and sprockets required so much maintenance.
One thing I dont like is the top/plate adjustment system. I use enclosed bevel gears that give me a handle coming out the front and makes it a 90° system. And with the polymer linear slides now, you don't need to worry about dust clogging an older style ball bearing linear block.
All in all, I think I like making tools/jigs more than anything else. Lol. And I use my routers for nearly everything so jigs are vital for me.
I’ve used the Woodpecker lift for years. Works well for me.
My router table did not have a lift. Every time I needed to adjust the bit height I would loosen the lock then raise or lower the bit and lock again. This all worked just fine until on day I did not have the motor locked down tight enough and it can flying off with a spinning bit. It wrecked everything. So yes, a lift is necessary.
Wow. That would have been so dangerous Gary. In fact quite devastating. How did you feel at the time this occurred?
Mine also does not have a lift because it's the cheapest table you can get. However, there is a height adjustment apparatus built into the clamp that holds the router to the underside of the table. On mine you loosen the caller by pulling it open and then turn the knob to get the height adjustment you want. Then close the collar by pushing it in. I've never had a problem with it.
This is among your best videos. It was very helpful and informative. Thank you!
Hi Ron, I’ve noticed that you don’t seem to utilize your woodpecker super fence anymore? I really enjoy the micro adjustment on the horizontal access with the super fence as well as the vertical micro adjustment using your router lift. Was just curious as to why you didn’t incorporate that in your design?
The Woodpecker fence is the best. I stopped using is much due to its size and weight. Since portability is my #1 need, I will sacrifice in other areas sometimes.
You have a nice set up Ron. Very impressive.
I like your math at the 14:48 mark. I'll have to see if my wife will buy that logic! Honey, Every accessory I buy makes my router lift less expensive! I'll have to remember that one. Nice video topic.
Why did I spend $150 on a six inch ruler? Because it saved me money = "woodpeckers math" 😅😅😅
I’ve had shapers in the past, always two. I even wired my new shop up with two 240 volt drops. Ended up with two lifts. I guess I am still on the fence a little. So far so good though. I do have another like 10 routers so that I don’t have to change the bits which is a plus.
You never addressed the title of the video--"Is a Router Lift Really Necessary?" Very disjointed presentation, you skipped around but mostly it seemed you were selling your router table. Please develop some notes to guide your presentation, be better organized about what you will say. That said, I appreciate your efforts in making the videos and I usually get some great tidbits of info them. Thanks for taking the time to help other woodworkers.
Not sure i could justify the lift but i am really attracted to the lift out arrangement. Opening the door of my cabinet and trying to make adjustments or change bits in there is inconvenient. The cabinet does have a vacuum attachment but it doesn't seem to be that effective. Are you using any kind of vacuum while routing or just cleaning up after?
I have a vac on the fence, but it only works when the bit is partially inside the fence. I designed my router tables to cantilever over the floor so dust mostly falls to the floor and is easy to sweep and vac. When I had my cabinet shop, I had closed in router/shaper tools and they were a pain to keep clean even though I had a large collection system. Dust is a fact of life in woodworking. I do collect as much as I can when the tools are running, but 50% still ends up on the floor.
Not a pro by any means. I've found that most of my needs are met without even a plate, but just by bolting my router base underneath my work surface (a Bora Centipede MDF top with dog holes, a ghetto version of your benchtops). I clamp an aluminum fence as needed and adjust the bit as you do, and I get an enormous router table -- the whole bench. I do have to attach the fixed base under the table, but that's a one-time, three-screw process when I set up for a project. My router came with a fixed and plunge base -- I use the latter for hand-held stuff.
Greetings Ron,
Watching all your 1000 + Videos. Latest to Earliest. Great to see the progression of your designs.
Note that your store link to Amazon is out of date. Amazon "Only 1 left in stock - order soon."
I called Woodpecker and the Amazon model is discontinued.
Thought you would want to know.
Do you have time to suggest another Lift?
Thanks :)
Great video thanks so much for your information.
Great video. For a weekend warrior like me, your setup without the lift is just the ticket. I’m much less concerned about the efficiency than someone like you or a production shop
Glad it helped
Thanks for the info! Well done
You bet!
Ron, thanks for this explanation. I've already purchased the plans for this and use your compact bench. I am curious, I have seen other videos and it seems people go through great lengths to ensure the flatness of the router table. Most other videos I have seen have tables thicker than 18mm. Have you ever had trouble with sagging or flex over time with your tables?
No, my 18mm table has been tested and now used for years. more than ½ of the router table is clamped down on top of the bench or station. It works!
@@TheSmartWoodshop thank you for the prompt answer!
I would spend your money on a fancy lift, but not mine.
Made my money back on my fancy lift in about 5 minutes.
I never knew Robert Redford did woodworking....lol
Best tool, I love it.!
Router tables and lifts are all priced ridiculously and that's why I don't have one.
You can always make a table yourself with a single piece of ply, and drill the router upside down. They all have integrated heigh adjustment, it's just a bit annoying from underneath.
Great ideas
Why in the world would the lift (a few machine screws and equally few pieces of steel) cost more than the router itself (motor, electronics, wires, housing, switches, and more)?! This is insane. These things should be no more than $50.
Here is your opportunity. If you can develop a router lift that rivals the quality and precision of Woodpeckers', priced at just $50, you'll likely struggle to meet the overwhelming demand. Once you've created it, please send one my way. I'll thoroughly test and review it, and I'm more than willing to pay the $50 cost as long as you include shipping fees. P.S. The box and packing will cost you $22 and shipping will be another $35. You will be in the hole by $7 before design, materials, manufacturing, business insurance, and advertising, but you can make it up in volume.
@@TheSmartWoodshop Our business has packaging and shipping MUCH less than that, but we don’t have a CNC mill nor the funding. I’m not questioning the quality of the product, but I could buy 2 more routers for that price. I do think you’re correct, whether sarcastic or not, there’s a great opportunity for someone to capitalize on the opportunity…even at domestic labor prices. I didn’t see any testing on runout, but many modern advances in technology have made precision much more affordable.
Are you just making videos now just to say Mahalo?
Buy the triton router is has a lift designed into the router.
The Milwaukee has a built in lift as well. I use one Milwaukee motor with the Woodpecker lift as my main and precision set up. The second Milwaukee I use with the built in lift.
Everything is "nice and beautiful" but can you tell me how much a "normal bread eater" has to pay for it?
The woodpeckers router lift is $493.99, the router plate is $141.99. Don't really know what you mean with "normal bread eater" given that he said what he paid for them.
@@Sauron227 and that the prices are public too...