Thanks for taking the time to make and post this informative video. The info on removing the 2 screws holding the rotor is valuable, since there are people who get to this stage of the repair and get no further without putting it back together after slapping new pads on and calling it a day.
Another valuable tutorial and thank you so much for sharing with all of us who appreciate your efforts to keep the signal strong. Please consider a short tutorial on how to set a '97 CR-V on jack stands properly; i.e. jack points under the car, jacking up the front and where to place the jack stands, etc. Cheers
Probably the best video I've seen so far. Not to disrespect others. This was awesome. I'm changing mine this weekend. Honda CRVs if taken care of are mini tanks. Thank you for your time and service.
When pumping the brake pedal (7:00) I never press it to the floor as it doesn’t go there during normal braking (so that portion of the brake master cylinder may not be smooth and perfect). Instead, I pump the pedal using short strokes. Never had to replace a master cylinder right after brake replacement in 30+ years of wrenching thousands of vehicles.
I am glad I found your channel. Before I was depending on Chris Fix but he did it for a different car, not Honda CRV. I need to write a comment on his channel to go to your channel for Honda CRV. Thank you👍
Another awesome video! Your clear instructions helped me do my own brakes in about 3 hours, but it was my first time, so I consider that very good! You wouldn't happen to have instructions for replacing the front wheel bearings on these cars, would you? Thank you again, and keep them coming!!
Good video! Thanks for taking the time to do it and then edit all your videos. That takes extra time and it makes the video much better with all the extra time cut out. What kind of brake pads would you use if you had your pick on an RD1? Also, what kind of lift do you have? I have a 2001 SE with 187,000 miles that I used your video to replace my valve cover gasket. Saved me about $200!!! Thank you my friend - and ROLL TIDE!
I have a 98 crv and lately its been making like a grinding noise that i think is brake related because it eases down when im press the brake pedal but im not sure. My mechanic seemed to have fixed it last time but it came back in a month or so. Also i get vibration when im coasting around 30 to 45 mph but pressing the brakes seems to stop it as well until i start coasting again. Bro, this has been driving me crazy and id greatly appreciate any knowledge you might have as to what might be the issue. Also great job with the vids man! i hit subscribe right away 👍
Check the dust plate on the back of the rotor for the noise. As for the vibration, I would jack the front up and check your tie rod ends in addition to the rest of the front end components. I'm happy to have you here!
1:51 we couldn't get ours to budge. We used Breakaway and heat and it wouldn't budge. The guy at O'Riley's Auto Parts sad we could just drill them out. Which, we did. But he said we didn't have to replace them because they don't actually serve any useful purpose. He went on to claim that they're just in place to hold everything together while the vehicle is coming down the assembly line. Once everything is out together, the screws aren't required anymore. Can anyone confirm or refute this? Perhaps do me a favor and explain it to me like I'm 10 years old lol
It's true, the screws just hold it in place until the wheel is mounted. I've had to drill out numerous bolts over the years. The wheel will hold it in place once it's bolted on
@@hondaresource Thank you for the prompt, polite reply! I have no experience working on cars, but I'm tired of paying people to do work that I can do myself with help from videos such as this.
I dont have the tool at 2:09 or the c clamp? Idk how much these cost either. Wanted to go to brakes for less but im sure my rotors need to be replaced not resurfaced.
Hello, I have a 2000 Honda CRV LX 2WD. My front rotors and brake pads were replaced a couple months ago. They were replaced with new NOS Wagner Thermoquiet ceramic brake pads QC503. The rotors are Wagner BD125518E. They started squeaking every now and then a couple of weeks after I had them done. Yesterday they sounded like they were grinding some. I went to a company that specializes in brakes today. The tech said the rotors and brake pads I have on my car are used for high performance vehicles. He said when they get hot it could be causing the noise. Do you think this is true?
I see some people put a lot of lubrication on the two pins that you took out then put yours back without adding more lube I though the more lube the better for your break. Is that true? I cannot see any lube on your pins while some others have some thick grease cover their pins. Can you please explain what you use and does the thick grease make any difference? I am about to have my breaks replaced for my 2001 crv and trying to know more about breaks. Thanks. Oh, should I change the front and rear breaks at the same time so that I can estimate the wear down of the rear breaks by examining just the front breaks (the rear breaks are drums)?
Screwdriver and a hammer may work. I've been able to use just a screw driver. I've also just had to drill them because they stripped. Each situation is different.
Thanks for taking the time to make and post this informative video. The info on removing the 2 screws holding the rotor is valuable, since there are people who get to this stage of the repair and get no further without putting it back together after slapping new pads on and calling it a day.
Straight to the point, clear explanation including tools and bolt sizes, show what you're doing on camera, excellent video. Thank you for making this.
Glad to help
awesome!
too much talking tbh
Another valuable tutorial and thank you so much for sharing with all of us who appreciate your efforts to keep the signal strong. Please consider a short tutorial on how to set a '97 CR-V on jack stands properly; i.e. jack points under the car, jacking up the front and where to place the jack stands, etc. Cheers
Every time I do a brake job, I come to UA-cam to watch a reminder video. Your video is straight forward & simple, no BS or rambling lol. Thanks man!!
Glad to help 🤟
Probably the best video I've seen so far. Not to disrespect others. This was awesome. I'm changing mine this weekend. Honda CRVs if taken care of are mini tanks.
Thank you for your time and service.
Glad it helped
Great video, no extra fluff or BS, right to the point looks like it’s going to be a very simple job, thank you very much
You bet
Thanks for the straightforward tutorial🤙🏻
One of the best rotors and pad replacement video straight to the point great work mate
Thank you!
When pumping the brake pedal (7:00) I never press it to the floor as it doesn’t go there during normal braking (so that portion of the brake master cylinder may not be smooth and perfect). Instead, I pump the pedal using short strokes. Never had to replace a master cylinder right after brake replacement in 30+ years of wrenching thousands of vehicles.
Interesting technique. Every mechanic I know uses full strokes.
Best video I could find for relaxing my rotors. Thanks.
Thank you
Dude this is an awesome tutorial thank you so much
Glad it helped!
I am glad I found your channel. Before I was depending on Chris Fix but he did it for a different car, not Honda CRV. I need to write a comment on his channel to go to your channel for Honda CRV. Thank you👍
Happy to help 🤟
Another awesome video! Your clear instructions helped me do my own brakes in about 3 hours, but it was my first time, so I consider that very good! You wouldn't happen to have instructions for replacing the front wheel bearings on these cars, would you? Thank you again, and keep them coming!!
I don't think so. I need to make one
Thanks man. Might be making a border crossing soon. Got a '99 in the sights.
Awesome!
Thank u man I needed this
Welcome!
Thank you very clear video
Glad it was helpful!
Good video! Thanks for taking the time to do it and then edit all your videos. That takes extra time and it makes the video much better with all the extra time cut out. What kind of brake pads would you use if you had your pick on an RD1? Also, what kind of lift do you have? I have a 2001 SE with 187,000 miles that I used your video to replace my valve cover gasket. Saved me about $200!!! Thank you my friend - and ROLL TIDE!
I like brake best products from oreilly. That lift was a bendpak 6xp. I used it for about 3 years before selling it and buying a 2 post lift.
Great video , thanks. About to change these out today.
Hell yeah thanks I was a little sacred away on other videos but you convinced me on doing it my self
Awesome!
Great vid, very helpful
Glad it helped
Perfect video, exactly what I needed
Hey brother, thank for this video. It made it so easy for me to replace my brake pads n rotor
Heck yeah!
Good job brother, you make it easy for everyone
I appreciate that!
Very clear instructional video. Well done. - Thanks - jwrit Boulder Co
Your are the man
Thank you
I'm about to replace the pads. Thanks.
Thank you good sir 🧐
Good job..
Thanks for sharing..
Thank you too
I like your video thank you so much
Thank you
I was surprised you didn't add any silicone grease between the pad-backing and caliper bracket.
Never used that mess
So simple, thank you!
Thanks man!
I hope it helped you!
Awesome.
Phillip have you ever put a disc brakes kit on the rear to do away with the drun set up.
I have ua-cam.com/video/XrKiHWZqKhU/v-deo.html
I have a 98 crv and lately its been making like a grinding noise that i think is brake related because it eases down when im press the brake pedal but im not sure. My mechanic seemed to have fixed it last time but it came back in a month or so. Also i get vibration when im coasting around 30 to 45 mph but pressing the brakes seems to stop it as well until i start coasting again. Bro, this has been driving me crazy and id greatly appreciate any knowledge you might have as to what might be the issue. Also great job with the vids man! i hit subscribe right away 👍
Check the dust plate on the back of the rotor for the noise. As for the vibration, I would jack the front up and check your tie rod ends in addition to the rest of the front end components.
I'm happy to have you here!
Thank you, very detailed
Glad it was helpful!
That stuff is call cosmoem to keep it from rusting
Thank you!
Thank you
Glad to help
Fantastic thank you very much just save me a lot of money
Awesome
Best video so faar
Thank you
Great video brother!
Thank you
Thanks man.
I hope it helps you
@@hondaresource it absolutely will! That and the axle video will help immensely.
@@MitchelDirks good deal!
Thanks very helpful
Glad it helped
1:51 we couldn't get ours to budge. We used Breakaway and heat and it wouldn't budge. The guy at O'Riley's Auto Parts sad we could just drill them out. Which, we did. But he said we didn't have to replace them because they don't actually serve any useful purpose. He went on to claim that they're just in place to hold everything together while the vehicle is coming down the assembly line. Once everything is out together, the screws aren't required anymore. Can anyone confirm or refute this? Perhaps do me a favor and explain it to me like I'm 10 years old lol
It's true, the screws just hold it in place until the wheel is mounted. I've had to drill out numerous bolts over the years. The wheel will hold it in place once it's bolted on
@@hondaresource Thank you for the prompt, polite reply! I have no experience working on cars, but I'm tired of paying people to do work that I can do myself with help from videos such as this.
@@mikedroz2301 heck yeah man! Best of luck to you
I dont have the tool at 2:09 or the c clamp? Idk how much these cost either. Wanted to go to brakes for less but im sure my rotors need to be replaced not resurfaced.
Ok c clamp is pretty cheap.
They are both pretty cheap
@@hondaresource any opinion on bosch rotors? They are $40ish. Im kinda broke to afford the expensive ones right now
@@maerenee8356 those will work perfect!
Oh, I can totally do this.
Yes you can! 🤙
So by pumping the brake paddle don’t have to bleed it unless you have to right?
Correct
You don’t have a video on doing the rear brakes do you?
I don't. They suck, I hate drum brakes
great job :). did you really use JIS bits for releasing rotor screws or is sthere a way around? I have a bit hard time to get JIS bits. thanks.
No, I used a standard Phillips #3
@@hondaresource Thank you.
Hello, I have a 2000 Honda CRV LX 2WD. My front rotors and brake pads were replaced a couple months ago. They were replaced with new NOS Wagner Thermoquiet ceramic brake pads QC503. The rotors are Wagner BD125518E. They started squeaking every now and then a couple of weeks after I had them done. Yesterday they sounded like they were grinding some.
I went to a company that specializes in brakes today. The tech said the rotors and brake pads I have on my car are used for high performance vehicles. He said when they get hot it could be causing the noise. Do you think this is true?
Ceramic brakes do make more noise.
I see some people put a lot of lubrication on the two pins that you took out then put yours back without adding more lube I though the more lube the better for your break. Is that true? I cannot see any lube on your pins while some others have some thick grease cover their pins. Can you please explain what you use and does the thick grease make any difference? I am about to have my breaks replaced for my 2001 crv and trying to know more about breaks. Thanks. Oh, should I change the front and rear breaks at the same time so that I can estimate the wear down of the rear breaks by examining just the front breaks (the rear breaks are drums)?
I would definitely use the grease on the pins. The front wear faster as they do about 70% of the braking
@@hondaresource thank you!
No anti seize coating needed? Like how you kept it simple.
Anti seize for what?
Is the impact driver necessary to get those 2 screws off or can I just use a screw driver and hammer?
Screwdriver and a hammer may work. I've been able to use just a screw driver. I've also just had to drill them because they stripped. Each situation is different.
Pfff this will be easy peasy
What settings do you use on your impact number 1-2-3? To tighten everything?
Mine always stay on full. I just regulate with the trigger
Okay so I don’t have to take the cap off of the brake fluid reservoir before pushing the piston back down ?
Nope
Oh Okay thanks. Someone had told me before I’d get air in the line if I didn’t take the cap off.
Thanks. ROLL TIDE!
Roll tide!
So you didn't need to bleed the line?
Not if you don't open the hydraulic system
Is that a 1/2 or 3/8 impact driver?
I used 3/8 impact driver for the rotors
Where did you get the rotors?
Parts store, Autozone, Oreilly, Advance, RockAuto, etc
brand of rotors and pads you use?
typically just whatever the parts store has in stock
oh hell nah bruh this dude is a hack mf really just impacted that caliper on that's insane
😂😂😂😂
@hondaresource mf said torque specs 🤡🤡 who needs em just impact them on like a jackass 😂
@@rjgonzalez5331 😂😂😂😂
Much easier to replace brake rotors on a 1999 CR-V. It is almost impossible to replace rotors on a 1996 Honda Accord with captive brake rotors...
Those are definitely more challenging